You deserve wayyy more subs man. I bought and went through all your courses, they are extraordinarily helpful and provide an insight into how you really make a speaker work like you want it to. It’s much more educational and useful than the majority of other RUclips videos on the subject, and I really thank you for that
You don't need a sub, you just need a speaker to be designed properly for the environment it's going into! Enjoy - ruclips.net/video/-U3XW6TV9zI/видео.html
Marius, I just started watching this video, and I must say that it was great to see these beautiful floor standing speakers. The simple but EFFECTIVE crossover will really let those drivers shine. And that response curve! Would love to hear these things 'sing'. I will have to build these someday. 👍
Awesome project. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and publishing your designs for free. Currently designing a variation of your beginner friendly dual woofer floorstander design, but with one woofer and the Vifa/Peerless XT25BG60 instead of the Dayton DC28F. Simulations are promising.
The design of these remind me of my BiC Formula towers (Fantastic, inexpensive speakers BTW) Even though you say you are a beginner, that response graph got a sub out of me!
well done, if you look at the kits from GR-Research they seem to round-over the inside edges of the driver cutouts and the internal bracing panels, i would do it too if i was building something. and maybe cut rebates in the panels to make recessed joints which would increase the glue line are and make a stronger joint. very impressed with the frequency responce though !!
7:45 wow dat special effect :D very nice video and speakers, thank you! 0:40 totally agree with you about listening via youtube, yepp there is a demand for it for some reason :)
the point is you can have a reference for example I'm listening on very high end headphones that I know and I can judge the speakers across the board from RUclips and else where minus of course the room that they are in but you can pick up on the tonal sound of a speaker this way.
any way to adjust the enclosure dimensions to make a matching center channel from this? can I just chop it off at the lowest brace? or make the width or depth different to compensate for internal volume?
It's hard to predict the results, but if I were to reduce the size, without designing it again (as it's a new speaker all together), I would cut of the box just below the lower midbass, and make a sealed enclosure. I would even consider making it slightly shallower because it doesn't need that much volume in a sealed box (16 liters of net volume).
Hi, thanks for the amazing video. My husband refabricated a pioneer speaker with bigger size floor speakers bit the sound became so low. How can he correct that? Thanks
Hi,What is the maximum spl we can get out of these at one meter distance approximately especially for frequencies above say 100 hz as we are going to pair with a subwoofer for lower end extension.I am thinking of using these in a sealed box with active crossover to a active subwoofer
Hard to say. Depends on the room size. But they will get uncomfortably loud. If you want to make a sealed enclosure, the box needs to be significantly smaller. Probably the whole part below the lower woofer is extra volume. So you could use a panel just below the lower woofer to make two chambers. The lower chamber will serve no purpose, other than making the speaker look taller, but you could partially fill it with sand to make the box more stable.
@@AudioJudgement thanks for your Response. That Sounds good but i'm curious let's say i'm about to throw a Party.. Outside... as far as i Unserstand it we have 3x8 Ohms in parallel wich Results in ~2,67ohm and the 2 woofers + Tweeter have 280w in total. If this ist right we could Power the speakers with an AMP with about 300w@2ohm to get the maximum Out of Them.
@@MrDendor It doesn't work like that. There is a crossover in place so, you have to take that into consideration when calculating impedance. Furthermore, it's not a simple calculation, it's a graph. However, you can check that in the crossover design app. It doesn't dip below 4 Ohms (well just a bit on a narrow frequency band). You can say it's a 4 Ohm speaker. Regarding the power handling, you don't add the speakers power handling together. It also depends on the crossover. When you start cranking up your amp, whichever driver reaches its power handling first, that will be the power handling of the speaker.
The 2 speakers are not separated because it’s a 2way design, and the box it is ported. It’s a large port and you can confuse it with a speaker. On the front baffle there are 2 bass drivers and a port.
Hello, I’m trying to build a bookshelf speaker but I have a quick question, since I won’t be using amps inside the speaker, I don’t have a way to delay the tweeter to be aligned with the woofer, do have anyway to fix this problem? One way I can find is tilting the box like the budchardt s400
When you design a crossover, the fact that you are adding components to the tweeter filter section, will inherently change the phase. If done right, you can align the tweeter in the crossover. If the speakers don't want to pair nicely, you can use a slanted baffle like you mention or a ladder delay network in your crossover.
First of all in an MTM configuration you have better vertical sound dispersion. Secondly, the tweeter is almost always more efficient than the mid-bass. Having 2 speakers will boost the efficiency of the mid-bass by 6 dB. As a result, you will need less attenuation for the tweeter, or in this case none at all.
@@changtraidoc if you apply the same voltage you get +6dB from parallel connection and the sensitivity will be the same as a single driver with serial connection. It is better to have parallel connection but you need to have an amplifier that can work with low impedance loads.
@@AudioJudgement Ok thank you ..... I want to build this speaker but I am afraid it will not be deep enough for my taste and I want a full range speaker that goes down deep I can use without a sub woofer ... that is my only worry
Hello, i really like these Speakers and would like to build these. My question is, if the Sound would further improve if i use thicker Walls? And would it be a good idea to put foam pads on the inside Walls? Ihope you Still answer Questions here :)
thicker walls would be better, but you have to modify the dimensions of the panels to keep the volume the same. Baffle size should also be the same, you can only modify the depth. Alternatively, you can keep all the panels the same and make the baffle double thickness. That way you don't change the inside volume nor the baffle dimension. You can add extra damping on the walls. That will kill the standing waves even further but will reduce the output of the bass reflex port.
Using a measurement microphone and Room EQ Wizard. If you want to learn how to do an acoustical measurement, you can check out my Acoustics 201 course.
Great project! I guess I got late to the party! LOL I found all the components on Parts Express but the woofer. It seems that woofer is not being produced anymore. Would you tell me what could be a "replacement" ? I Could not find 7" diameter woofer. I found some 8" diameter. Would it be OK to use a 8" diameter instead? I found this Dayton Audio PA200-8 8" Pro Woofer Speaker. Is this model a good one for substitution? keeping all the other components the same? Thanks in advance.
You need that exact speaker for it to work properly. Madisound sells the speaker in US, but it's just out of stock. Send them an email and ask them to order 4 pieces for you. Probably it will be more than a month till you get them but the model is not discontinued.
Hello! It is my own design. I've seen people make this comment before regarding that it's my living room. It's just an unused office space at a factory. What makes it look like a living room? The two old armchairs? :)
They usually are. Contact the seller and ask for a delivery date. If you order them it will probably take a couple of months, but you will get them eventually.
Hi Marius, Thank you for this great video. I have a question about the bass reflex port, and yes, I'm very much a noob on these kind of things, Is it necessary to have the reflex port so high up. Visually, just for contrast I think i prefer the reflex port to be on the bottom of the speaker and the woofers and tweeter on the top half as you have. Would moving the reflex port have a negative effect? Maybe because you have the dampening material on the bottom, could there be a way to have both the dampening material and the reflex port there? Or is it possible to build this without the reflex port at all, so you'd have a sealed loudspeaker? Greetings from The Netherlands.
Having the port close to the woofers is something that makes sense. Since the waves will add up, you don’t want too much phase shift by placing a larger distance between them. However, bass region has wavelengths of several meters. So, having 20 more centimeters between them, won’t do much in the previously mentioned regard. You can use thick mineral wool to line to walls of the box if you want to put the port on the bottom. And yes, you can make the box sealed at the expense of bass response.
I think those old armchairs are confusing people :). It's an unused room in a production factory. It was an ex office, now a workshop :). Even though keeping the room in good condition is not a priority, it looks pretty rough now after spray painting in the middle of it. It will have to do for now, as I don't have a separate room for painting.
hifi and them meaning is full range 20-50k so yah if your not hitting 20hz use a sub. i mean concerts use them and we want to reproduce soundstage. you can always have it rolled off but they made the music with low freq and intended you to here it.
Salut Marius. As vrea sa incep 2 proiecte de boombox pentru mine si un prieten. Vreo sugestie de unde as putea comanda difuzoarele si daca este posibil sa imi fabrice cineva materialele cabinelor pentru cele 2 proiecte ? Multumesc anticipat si mult succes in continuare. E foarte tare ca cineva de la noi reuseste astfel de clipuri pe intelesul tuturor.
They came out looked badd asss! Nice job. Do they get the job done as far as down at the bottom? I’d hate to see ya have to use a sub. There’s just something about sub’s and there sound I really don’t like when it comes to HiFi. There just un-natural sounding. If ya can’t hit the basement with 12’s” or 15’s” it’s back to the drawing board. Something tells me these sound smoother as silk. 👍 Very nice job.
Could this be done with cheaper speakers? I'm just curious. I am not an audiophile by any means but I would like to build some standing floor speakers (I am a craftsman) out of walnut, but I can't spend anywhere near $700 on audio components and I just don't think my ears will be able to tell much of a difference between these and Polk T50s or Energy CF-50s (which are under $200 each)
Unfortunately, you have to use precisely those drivers. If you don't mind waiting a few months I have a floor standing speaker project with very cheap drivers coming up soon.
Well, first of all, you need an amp for these speakers. Your amp might have integrated bluetooth. If not, you can buy an external bluetooth box that will connect to your amp. Logitech makes one.
Hey, im planing on building these amazing looking speakers, but i have a few questions before I do build them. First off: how is the imaging? How do they perform of axis (on axis seems on the first look amazingly good considering the price). How detailed are they playing, is it more a criticial or fun speaker to play music? Audiophile Question: do they disapear when closing the eyes, or can u still hear where the sound comes from? Is a small amp 40-80Watts enough, or should i go 100 plus? Do u recommend using a thicker baffle? I was thinking off adding a Design layer on top of the baffle, that i can cnc. Maybe like 22mm baffle and 10mm on top that will be cnc engraved. Also if i build them I really want to make a concrete base that will be glued with a thick layer of silicon on the bottom. What do you guys think? Should I do it? Do you want a Video about it?
Hello! It's hard to give an answer to your imaging questions because I do not have a good listening spot. As you can see from the video the speakers are placed in a corner which is a terrible idea. I dare to say that I don't like how they sound in that spot. Positioning is very important in audio. However, when I had the prototype speaker (only one speaker) and was listening in the middle of room it sounded super detailed and crisp. If I were to label them if they are analytical or fun I would say that it's a bit of both but more inclined to analytical. They are very efficient, even a 40-50W amp can drive them. I do recommend a thicker baffle. They are light weight and that's not the best of things. Thicker baffle, spikes for feet are good ideas. If you want to make a concrete base that would be awesome but I think that a larger baffle and spikes is enough.
Are you referring to the frequency response chart? Bear in mind that the measurement is done at a low level. In reality the speakers are very efficient and the power handling is high. Therefore you can reach ear bleeding levels if want. And to answer your question, yes, they would be a great option for a home theater.
I have seen that floor sealer for wooden floors is a good primer for MDF. There's a video on RUclips showing it done. Here is one, for example: ruclips.net/video/2BYdxSTgOkM/видео.html
Thank you for your videos and classes (I have watched 3 so far). Two questions. Would it be ok to build these out of walnut veneered plywood? Thinking of building these for my home theater system. Would I be able to use the same speakers in a smaller sealed box (no port). I do have 2 subs so I don’t need much bass from the center channel.
Plywood would work just fine. If you want to make a sealed box, you can, but you have to make the box smaller. Also, to ensure that the crossover will yield a response somewhat close to the original , try to make the baffle somewhat close to the original shape. Keep the width the same, reduce the height (if you need to) to something that looks proportional and adjust the depth with no restriction to achieve whatever volume you want.
Hi Marius, I've got another question on your design. You put the speakers directly on the floor and don't use spikes (with spike shoes to protect the floor), is that a deliberate choice, and if so, why? Or did you just not attach them yet while making this video?
@@AudioJudgement That's what I thought :-). I'm really thinking of building these speakers myself. The only problem I have is that these SEAS woofers are not widely available here (in The Netherlands), even on Amazon they are not available anymore and I'm not a big fan of buying expensive stuff online internationally at stores I don't know.... So I have to figure out how to solve that one.
@@reinders86 I understand. I can only vouch for soundimports.eu or audiophonics.fr as I bought from them and was very satisfied. But none of them has those drivers on stock.
Hi, I really like the looks of these DIY speakers. I’m even considering building these myself, but I’ve a few questions. I’d like to place the tweeters in the center of the speaker instead of left and right. Would this alter the sound in a negative way? Also, I don’t have the tools to create that nice leveled edge for the woofers and tweeters. Personally, I don’t mind the edge being visible, but would it alter the sound? And last but not least: I noticed you’re only using glue to hold the wooden pieces together. Is this strong enough, considering the pressure that will build up inside the speakers? Thanks in advance!
The offset tweeter placement is important and I advise you not to place the tweeter in the center. Rounding the edges of the baffle is also important. Flush mounting the speakers probably is not something that will impact the overall sound that much. I guess you can skip that. Glue is super strong. Also it has 4 braces. You couldn't take it apart even if you wanted to.
Great tutorial Which is your proposal for a sub companion on this set as I'm in the building process? Maybe a small sealed one? Again i really enjoy your videos. Regards
No, I think a powerful bass reflex is in order. These speakers have great efficiency and power handling and they need something to keep up with them. I would suggest at least a 500W bass reflex sub, that plays down to 20 Hz.
They have to be stable at 2 Ohms per channel if you want to wire them in mono mode. But anyway, the specs indicate that they have enough power in stereo mode, so no need for 2.
Have really enjoyed watching and learning from your videos.....but still far too clueless to do anything other than try and build these speakers from this video. Curious - these will cost roughly $500ish to build for the pair. You've heard the quality and I certainly trust what appears to be an expert opinion. What do you imagine a speaker this quality would retail for?
I can't really say. I haven't listened to that many branded speakers. If I were to guess, I would say that this DIY speaker would be a better value than what you will find already made on the market. By how much, I don't know.
@@AudioJudgement Thank you sir. Really do appreciate the time you took to produce your videos. I've have the cabinets all cut and ready for glue. Have ordered all parts (except Tweeters....currently unavailable) Looking forward to hearing them
That's great! Here are some tips to make them even better. First of all you can add some spike feet. And secondly you can add a double baffle. Basically a front baffle made by 2 panels glued together. This doesn't change the baffle shape / size, nor does it change internal volume, but it increases the overall enclosure stiffness and rigidity. If you decide to make a double baffle, make sure you chamfer the speaker cutout on the inside so the speaker can "breathe" with no restrictions. These 2 are optional but nice to have.
@@curtischillin4560 im not dismissive 🙂 I've tried both methods.it works better in my situation due to lack of equipment,time etc. I use 1.6cm wood and double sided tape between them.its not very thin and kind of spongy. I use 4cm long wood screws every 8cm. Its visible that the tape is compressed between surface. Its very durable so far🙂 and not afraid to drop them 🤭🤭!! because i move them a lot. P.s sory for my poor English 😢
I absolutely love how he sprays the finish on these in his living room. He is OBVIOUSLY not a married man. LOL!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂
I was thinking the same lol
My wife a woofer with a twin!😋
That's not a living room.
That port! Initially thought it was the third woofer! Good work there!
You deserve wayyy more subs man. I bought and went through all your courses, they are extraordinarily helpful and provide an insight into how you really make a speaker work like you want it to. It’s much more educational and useful than the majority of other RUclips videos on the subject, and I really thank you for that
You don't need a sub, you just need a speaker to be designed properly for the environment it's going into!
Enjoy - ruclips.net/video/-U3XW6TV9zI/видео.html
Marius, I just started watching this video, and I must say that it was great to see these beautiful floor standing speakers. The simple but EFFECTIVE crossover will really let those drivers shine. And that response curve! Would love to hear these things 'sing'. I will have to build these someday. 👍
liked immediately right after seeing the frequency response graph :D
They sound excellent 👌 Good job on their build. 👏
Awesome project. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and publishing your designs for free. Currently designing a variation of your beginner friendly dual woofer floorstander design, but with one woofer and the Vifa/Peerless XT25BG60 instead of the Dayton DC28F. Simulations are promising.
I really like the way you did the internal bracing!
ould love to see a video about the design stages of the speaker
This vid calms me down....nice music choice...greets from Germany
Good work Mr Marius I will love to have the website that I can found the description on how I can build the speaker
You can find the link in the video description.
The design of these remind me of my BiC Formula towers (Fantastic, inexpensive speakers BTW) Even though you say you are a beginner, that response graph got a sub out of me!
well done, if you look at the kits from GR-Research they seem to round-over the inside edges of the driver cutouts and the internal bracing panels, i would do it too if i was building something. and maybe cut rebates in the panels to make recessed joints which would increase the glue line are and make a stronger joint. very impressed with the frequency responce though !!
7:45 wow dat special effect :D
very nice video and speakers, thank you!
0:40 totally agree with you about listening via youtube, yepp there is a demand for it for some reason :)
Great video, man. Looked over your plans, and they're very well written.
Great looking speakers Sir! Thank you for sharing.
Would you still recommend building these, after 4 years? It is tempting, and i need speakers
I'd wait a while as I'm planning a revision to these speakers
Amazing! Can't wait. I love diy jobs and good music too. I want to build my own speakers so Im gonna wait for you new plan.@@AudioJudgement
Parts Express sells a kit box that looks almost like that.
Magnifico. Qual a eletrônica que colocou dentro da caixa e qual a impedância de cada falante?
The Acoustastuff isn't the same material you used for dampening??
the point is you can have a reference for example I'm listening on very high end headphones that I know and I can judge the speakers across the board from RUclips and else where minus of course the room that they are in but you can pick up on the tonal sound of a speaker this way.
W want to build something like this speaker but which can go down to at least 30hz
do you have dimensions just for building front-ported active 8-inch or 10-inch subwoofer towers to sit under studio monitors
Salut. Cum se numeste melodia de la minutul 18:00 ?
Where is the frequency response?
could you give me the link on amazon or other page for the bit you used to make the rounded effect (9:44) thank you.
Just search google for roundover router bit and I'm sure you will find what you need.
any way to adjust the enclosure dimensions to make a matching center channel from this? can I just chop it off at the lowest brace? or make the width or depth different to compensate for internal volume?
It's hard to predict the results, but if I were to reduce the size, without designing it again (as it's a new speaker all together), I would cut of the box just below the lower midbass, and make a sealed enclosure. I would even consider making it slightly shallower because it doesn't need that much volume in a sealed box (16 liters of net volume).
Can you build speaker like wharfedale linton? Vintage look like that?
They sound amazing !
Thank you for your Video! Nice Build!
With the tweeter placed off centre, and a rather large baffel, how is the off axis response?
I have all the parts needed but my inductors are 1.5mh would it sound bad if I USED THEM ?
I checked and the response is pretty similar if you use 1.5 instead of 1.2 inductors. I guess it's fine.
Hi, thanks for the amazing video. My husband refabricated a pioneer speaker with bigger size floor speakers bit the sound became so low. How can he correct that? Thanks
They look great too!
Hi,What is the maximum spl we can get out of these at one meter distance approximately especially for frequencies above say 100 hz as we are going to pair with a subwoofer for lower end extension.I am thinking of using these in a sealed box with active crossover to a active subwoofer
Hard to say. Depends on the room size. But they will get uncomfortably loud. If you want to make a sealed enclosure, the box needs to be significantly smaller. Probably the whole part below the lower woofer is extra volume. So you could use a panel just below the lower woofer to make two chambers. The lower chamber will serve no purpose, other than making the speaker look taller, but you could partially fill it with sand to make the box more stable.
Can you tell me how loud these speakers can get before distortion please?
They get pretty loud even with a small amp because the speakers are very efficient.
Thought it was a passive radiator system till I saw the ports go in. Think I'd try something like this with passive rads.
I have a 7.1 denon rated at 700w but 100w per channal i want to make a 3 way terminals... What watts should i use for the speakers?
What is the recommended amplifier for these speakers ?
100W at 4 ohms
@@AudioJudgement really? Sounds a little Low. How do you calculate this?
@@MrDendor Just an educated guess. The speakers are super efficient. Even with a good 10W amp you would be satisfied, unless you are throwing a party.
@@AudioJudgement thanks for your Response. That Sounds good but i'm curious let's say i'm about to throw a Party.. Outside... as far as i Unserstand it we have 3x8 Ohms in parallel wich Results in ~2,67ohm and the 2 woofers + Tweeter have 280w in total. If this ist right we could Power the speakers with an AMP with about 300w@2ohm to get the maximum Out of Them.
@@MrDendor It doesn't work like that. There is a crossover in place so, you have to take that into consideration when calculating impedance. Furthermore, it's not a simple calculation, it's a graph. However, you can check that in the crossover design app. It doesn't dip below 4 Ohms (well just a bit on a narrow frequency band). You can say it's a 4 Ohm speaker. Regarding the power handling, you don't add the speakers power handling together. It also depends on the crossover. When you start cranking up your amp, whichever driver reaches its power handling first, that will be the power handling of the speaker.
Is this crossover desghine is suitable for any 8ohms speaker?
No, yo need precisely that speaker.
What is the tool called you cut the speaker holes with
jasper circle jig
@@AudioJudgement thanks 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome video, I have a question, as this speaker is not separated plus it's not "ported!?" Either but some speakers are, why?
The 2 speakers are not separated because it’s a 2way design, and the box it is ported. It’s a large port and you can confuse it with a speaker. On the front baffle there are 2 bass drivers and a port.
Hello, I’m trying to build a bookshelf speaker but I have a quick question, since I won’t be using amps inside the speaker, I don’t have a way to delay the tweeter to be aligned with the woofer, do have anyway to fix this problem? One way I can find is tilting the box like the budchardt s400
When you design a crossover, the fact that you are adding components to the tweeter filter section, will inherently change the phase. If done right, you can align the tweeter in the crossover. If the speakers don't want to pair nicely, you can use a slanted baffle like you mention or a ladder delay network in your crossover.
What primer / Filler/ or paint did you use? Thanks
Man you are talented! They sound phenomenal ❣
Very Cool. I plan on build a set in a couple of weeks. They will be Klipsch KLF30 CLONES. Dual 12", Mid Horn and Tweeter Horn. 240Liter or 8.5cu.ft
Could you explain a benefit of you 2 mid-bass driver vs 1 big mid-bass driver, thank you?
First of all in an MTM configuration you have better vertical sound dispersion. Secondly, the tweeter is almost always more efficient than the mid-bass. Having 2 speakers will boost the efficiency of the mid-bass by 6 dB. As a result, you will need less attenuation for the tweeter, or in this case none at all.
Serial and parallel 2 mid-bass, we 'll always get more 6db or only parallel? Thank you very much :)
Theoretically, it doesn't matter, considering you give the same amount of power to the speakers. You will need a beefier amp for series connection.
@@changtraidoc if you apply the same voltage you get +6dB from parallel connection and the sensitivity will be the same as a single driver with serial connection.
It is better to have parallel connection but you need to have an amplifier that can work with low impedance loads.
Impressive. Nice job.
what's the size of the woofes
6.5"
Can I ask why you didn't you use a resistor or lpad on tweeter is it not needed ???
Usually tweeters are more efficient that woofers. But since we 2 woofers, this time wasn't necessary.
@@AudioJudgement OK Thank you ... I have Seas 27tdc tweeter ... can i use it with this xover ?
@@gtaveditorvids6776 nope
@@AudioJudgement Ok thank you ..... I want to build this speaker but I am afraid it will not be deep enough for my taste and I want a full range speaker that goes down deep I can use without a sub woofer ... that is my only worry
Outstanding work, sounds thru a iPad Pro
this enclosure mesurement can use 5.5'' woofers?
No, it's designed specifically for these drivers.
Nice build brother
I show my wife how you spraying in your living room, to see that there is worst than me! Haha.Great job! Thumbs up
Hello, i really like these Speakers and would like to build these. My question is, if the Sound would further improve if i use thicker Walls? And would it be a good idea to put foam pads on the inside Walls? Ihope you Still answer Questions here :)
thicker walls would be better, but you have to modify the dimensions of the panels to keep the volume the same. Baffle size should also be the same, you can only modify the depth. Alternatively, you can keep all the panels the same and make the baffle double thickness. That way you don't change the inside volume nor the baffle dimension. You can add extra damping on the walls. That will kill the standing waves even further but will reduce the output of the bass reflex port.
thank you very much :)@@AudioJudgement
how did you measure the frequency response?
Using a measurement microphone and Room EQ Wizard. If you want to learn how to do an acoustical measurement, you can check out my Acoustics 201 course.
Great project! I guess I got late to the party! LOL I found all the components on Parts Express but the woofer. It seems that woofer is not being produced anymore. Would you tell me what could be a "replacement" ? I Could not find 7" diameter woofer. I found some 8" diameter. Would it be OK to use a 8" diameter instead? I found this Dayton Audio PA200-8 8" Pro Woofer Speaker. Is this model a good one for substitution? keeping all the other components the same? Thanks in advance.
You need that exact speaker for it to work properly. Madisound sells the speaker in US, but it's just out of stock. Send them an email and ask them to order 4 pieces for you. Probably it will be more than a month till you get them but the model is not discontinued.
@@AudioJudgement Thank you! I will try and get in touch with them.
Marius than you so much , its awesome.
Good work, Marius! Very brave spray-painting in your living room! Was the crossover your own design or from a supplier?
Hello! It is my own design. I've seen people make this comment before regarding that it's my living room. It's just an unused office space at a factory. What makes it look like a living room? The two old armchairs? :)
@@AudioJudgement Exactly!
Ate the speakrts ( Seas) out of stock ?
They usually are. Contact the seller and ask for a delivery date. If you order them it will probably take a couple of months, but you will get them eventually.
@@AudioJudgement Thanks !
Hi Marius, Thank you for this great video. I have a question about the bass reflex port, and yes, I'm very much a noob on these kind of things, Is it necessary to have the reflex port so high up. Visually, just for contrast I think i prefer the reflex port to be on the bottom of the speaker and the woofers and tweeter on the top half as you have. Would moving the reflex port have a negative effect? Maybe because you have the dampening material on the bottom, could there be a way to have both the dampening material and the reflex port there? Or is it possible to build this without the reflex port at all, so you'd have a sealed loudspeaker?
Greetings from The Netherlands.
Having the port close to the woofers is something that makes sense. Since the waves will add up, you don’t want too much phase shift by placing a larger distance between them. However, bass region has wavelengths of several meters. So, having 20 more centimeters between them, won’t do much in the previously mentioned regard.
You can use thick mineral wool to line to walls of the box if you want to put the port on the bottom. And yes, you can make the box sealed at the expense of bass response.
@@AudioJudgement Thank you very much for this reply. I'm sure your channel will grow a lot with great videos like this!
Amazing talent
I kept watching you spray paint it inside the house and was like is there his living room? Haha but for real. Was it?
I think those old armchairs are confusing people :). It's an unused room in a production factory. It was an ex office, now a workshop :). Even though keeping the room in good condition is not a priority, it looks pretty rough now after spray painting in the middle of it. It will have to do for now, as I don't have a separate room for painting.
@@AudioJudgement that makes sense. I was going to say. He must be crazy doing that in his living room haha
hifi and them meaning is full range 20-50k so yah if your not hitting 20hz use a sub. i mean concerts use them and we want to reproduce soundstage. you can always have it rolled off but they made the music with low freq and intended you to here it.
Salut Marius.
As vrea sa incep 2 proiecte de boombox pentru mine si un prieten.
Vreo sugestie de unde as putea comanda difuzoarele si daca este posibil sa imi fabrice cineva materialele cabinelor pentru cele 2 proiecte ?
Multumesc anticipat si mult succes in continuare. E foarte tare ca cineva de la noi reuseste astfel de clipuri pe intelesul tuturor.
They came out looked badd asss! Nice job. Do they get the job done as far as down at the bottom? I’d hate to see ya have to use a sub. There’s just something about sub’s and there sound I really don’t like when it comes to HiFi. There just un-natural sounding. If ya can’t hit the basement with 12’s” or 15’s” it’s back to the drawing board. Something tells me these sound smoother as silk. 👍 Very nice job.
Could this be done with cheaper speakers? I'm just curious. I am not an audiophile by any means but I would like to build some standing floor speakers (I am a craftsman) out of walnut, but I can't spend anywhere near $700 on audio components and I just don't think my ears will be able to tell much of a difference between these and Polk T50s or Energy CF-50s (which are under $200 each)
Unfortunately, you have to use precisely those drivers. If you don't mind waiting a few months I have a floor standing speaker project with very cheap drivers coming up soon.
4ohm tower spkr stable for AVR?!
You have to check the specs on your receiver but most likely yes.
Great build.......thank you sir!
Great work!
Is it possible to add Bluetooth to these speakers?
Well, first of all, you need an amp for these speakers. Your amp might have integrated bluetooth. If not, you can buy an external bluetooth box that will connect to your amp. Logitech makes one.
first music title pls
Damma Beatz - Mind Me
www.epidemicsound.com/track/oDak0iEQkh/
Pleaae send one to my home master....
Hey, im planing on building these amazing looking speakers, but i have a few questions before I do build them.
First off: how is the imaging? How do they perform of axis (on axis seems on the first look amazingly good considering the price). How detailed are they playing, is it more a criticial or fun speaker to play music? Audiophile Question: do they disapear when closing the eyes, or can u still hear where the sound comes from? Is a small amp 40-80Watts enough, or should i go 100 plus? Do u recommend using a thicker baffle? I was thinking off adding a Design layer on top of the baffle, that i can cnc. Maybe like 22mm baffle and 10mm on top that will be cnc engraved. Also if i build them I really want to make a concrete base that will be glued with a thick layer of silicon on the bottom. What do you guys think? Should I do it? Do you want a Video about it?
Hello! It's hard to give an answer to your imaging questions because I do not have a good listening spot. As you can see from the video the speakers are placed in a corner which is a terrible idea. I dare to say that I don't like how they sound in that spot. Positioning is very important in audio. However, when I had the prototype speaker (only one speaker) and was listening in the middle of room it sounded super detailed and crisp. If I were to label them if they are analytical or fun I would say that it's a bit of both but more inclined to analytical. They are very efficient, even a 40-50W amp can drive them. I do recommend a thicker baffle. They are light weight and that's not the best of things. Thicker baffle, spikes for feet are good ideas. If you want to make a concrete base that would be awesome but I think that a larger baffle and spikes is enough.
I think the tweeters do not integrate well..sound overly sharp
Good Job Marius. Can this speakers used to Home Theater? I saw that it makes only below 70 db. Do you think its a good choice?
Congrats
Are you referring to the frequency response chart? Bear in mind that the measurement is done at a low level. In reality the speakers are very efficient and the power handling is high. Therefore you can reach ear bleeding levels if want. And to answer your question, yes, they would be a great option for a home theater.
Nice speakers. You got me enthusiastic after that response graph.
Did you seal the mdf before spraying? Or just used primer?
And that port is insane 😂
Yeah, that is just primer and paint. Not that I'm giving any painting advice, I'm a complete beginner.
I have seen that floor sealer for wooden floors is a good primer for MDF. There's a video on RUclips showing it done. Here is one, for example: ruclips.net/video/2BYdxSTgOkM/видео.html
Thank you for your videos and classes (I have watched 3 so far). Two questions. Would it be ok to build these out of walnut veneered plywood? Thinking of building these for my home theater system. Would I be able to use the same speakers in a smaller sealed box (no port). I do have 2 subs so I don’t need much bass from the center channel.
Plywood would work just fine. If you want to make a sealed box, you can, but you have to make the box smaller. Also, to ensure that the crossover will yield a response somewhat close to the original , try to make the baffle somewhat close to the original shape. Keep the width the same, reduce the height (if you need to) to something that looks proportional and adjust the depth with no restriction to achieve whatever volume you want.
Hi Marius, I've got another question on your design. You put the speakers directly on the floor and don't use spikes (with spike shoes to protect the floor), is that a deliberate choice, and if so, why? Or did you just not attach them yet while making this video?
No, it’s not deliberate. You should use some spikes. I just placed them somewhere random so I could film them as I was happy they were finished :)
@@AudioJudgement That's what I thought :-). I'm really thinking of building these speakers myself. The only problem I have is that these SEAS woofers are not widely available here (in The Netherlands), even on Amazon they are not available anymore and I'm not a big fan of buying expensive stuff online internationally at stores I don't know.... So I have to figure out how to solve that one.
@@reinders86 I understand. I can only vouch for soundimports.eu or audiophonics.fr as I bought from them and was very satisfied. But none of them has those drivers on stock.
Hi,
I really like the looks of these DIY speakers. I’m even considering building these myself, but I’ve a few questions.
I’d like to place the tweeters in the center of the speaker instead of left and right. Would this alter the sound in a negative way?
Also, I don’t have the tools to create that nice leveled edge for the woofers and tweeters. Personally, I don’t mind the edge being visible, but would it alter the sound?
And last but not least: I noticed you’re only using glue to hold the wooden pieces together. Is this strong enough, considering the pressure that will build up inside the speakers?
Thanks in advance!
The offset tweeter placement is important and I advise you not to place the tweeter in the center. Rounding the edges of the baffle is also important.
Flush mounting the speakers probably is not something that will impact the overall sound that much. I guess you can skip that.
Glue is super strong. Also it has 4 braces. You couldn't take it apart even if you wanted to.
Great tutorial
Which is your proposal for a sub companion on this set as I'm in the building process?
Maybe a small sealed one?
Again i really enjoy your videos.
Regards
No, I think a powerful bass reflex is in order. These speakers have great efficiency and power handling and they need something to keep up with them. I would suggest at least a 500W bass reflex sub, that plays down to 20 Hz.
@@AudioJudgement Any recommendation ?Thanks for your kind reply though.
@@AudioJudgement Btw do you think that a pair of XTZ edge A2-300 on mono mode is o.k for these?
They have to be stable at 2 Ohms per channel if you want to wire them in mono mode. But anyway, the specs indicate that they have enough power in stereo mode, so no need for 2.
Do you have measurements for them or if not you can send them to Amir at ASR to get free anechoic measurements for them.
Have really enjoyed watching and learning from your videos.....but still far too clueless to do anything other than try and build these speakers from this video. Curious - these will cost roughly $500ish to build for the pair. You've heard the quality and I certainly trust what appears to be an expert opinion. What do you imagine a speaker this quality would retail for?
I can't really say. I haven't listened to that many branded speakers. If I were to guess, I would say that this DIY speaker would be a better value than what you will find already made on the market. By how much, I don't know.
@@AudioJudgement Thank you sir. Really do appreciate the time you took to produce your videos. I've have the cabinets all cut and ready for glue. Have ordered all parts (except Tweeters....currently unavailable) Looking forward to hearing them
That's great! Here are some tips to make them even better. First of all you can add some spike feet. And secondly you can add a double baffle. Basically a front baffle made by 2 panels glued together. This doesn't change the baffle shape / size, nor does it change internal volume, but it increases the overall enclosure stiffness and rigidity. If you decide to make a double baffle, make sure you chamfer the speaker cutout on the inside so the speaker can "breathe" with no restrictions. These 2 are optional but nice to have.
Great speakers . I wonder can these be made out of real wood ?
You can, but you have to make sure the wood is dried correctly, otherwise the box will warp in time.
Nice work mate. Will there be a sub build to complement them?
I have in mind to build a small sealed sub. Not necessarily to be used with these speakers though. Probably something larger would be better.
Very nice 👌
Sound REALLY tight'!!!!
Instead of glue i will use screws and double side tape between surface to make it stronger and eliminate vibrations
Screws can rattle over time, and double sided tape wouldn't be nearly as sealed as glue. Glue is a tried and true method, don't dismiss is so quickly
@@curtischillin4560 im not dismissive 🙂
I've tried both methods.it works better in my situation due to lack of equipment,time etc.
I use 1.6cm wood and double sided tape between them.its not very thin and kind of spongy.
I use 4cm long wood screws every 8cm.
Its visible that the tape is compressed between surface.
Its very durable so far🙂 and not afraid to drop them 🤭🤭!! because i move them a lot.
P.s sory for my poor English 😢
Amazing
Very good video! Thank you. I do - however - find the background track reeeeeeally obnoxious. Man!
Awesome subscribed
Thx for the video\!
😮😮es gibt neoprenband 1-2 ,mm zum luftdichte Einbau. Das mit dem Silikon ist kein optimaler Weg
Just another join the panel and make type video.. Use curved front etc then it will be soecial
2 things, always prewire cabonates during assembly, and never spray paint over a hardwood floor.
that was great
Awesome
thanks for playing different kinds of music instead of just voice and guitar hehehe.
its looks cool from 05:45 :)
Sub Grave de alta Performance ficou muito gostoso de si ouvir.
Parabéns 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👉🏾⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐🔊🎶🎵👍🏾 *LIKE TOPADO* 🇧🇷