Sliding Dovetail Lid for 3D Printed Box | Fusion 360 Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 14 июл 2024
- Create a sliding dovetail lid with a parametric box using Fusion 360. This box is a great project that can be used for a deck of cards, SD cards, or really any small objects that you need a box for.
TIMESTAMPS
0:00 - Creating a sliding lid in Fusion 360
0:27 - User Parameters preview
1:08 - Creating the box
1:50 - Making the box hollow
2:43 - Projecting the edge of the box
3:29 - Cutting out the dovetail shape
6:00 - Testing the dimensions
6:23 - Creating the lid of the box
7:45 - Factoring in the clearance
10:15 - Model Parameters into User Parameters
12:45 - Creating the thumb hold on the top
14:13 - Adding a sliding joint to the lid
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*FREE DOWNLOAD* - Sliding Dovetail Lid Box: bit.ly/DovetailBoxSTL
To keep the lid from sliding off, I'd add in a 4x2x2 mm rectangular hole/slot on the rear bottom of the lid and also print a 4x2x4 mm key (with the requisite offset subtracted in for your printer) to make a friction fit between the hole and key. The extra 2mm that sticks out of from the hole/slot once you press the key in by hand will add a nice positive stop with the option of prying the key off if you ever needed to fully remove the lid. Great video as usual!
Thank you, Kevin! As usually it’s a very good tutorial. You’re the best in F360!
This is awesome man! Please keep up the 3d print series. It's so helpful and as always the best online for Fusion 360.
I love having examples like this because I can use it to learn by, and I have a functional product when I'm done. I'd like to add a tab to snap it shut when closed. I'm going to figure out that solution next. Thanks Kevin for a great series.
Your fusion tutorials are the best! The solution I used to keep the lid from sliding off are slots for 3mm diameter 3mm thickness neodymium magnets. I find the way the components snap together to be very satisfying.
So I printed this box and it worked great. I wanted a longer one and with one dimension change in the main box sketch everything was adjusted correctly!! So awesome. Great job explaining this concept.
From all the information about Fusion 360 on the web I've seen so far, your videos are the best. Your way of teaching is calm, patient and elegant, your explanations are clear and easy to understand. I do the exercises along with the video side by side and I'm always learning something more. Congratulations!
It's just an idea to prevent the lid from coming off, I put two small pins, one on each side of the front of the box to be printed separately and placed after the lid. The top of the pins can be flush with the thickness of the cover and the pins protrude about 1.0mm into the case. They were virtually invisible and prevented the cap from coming off completely more easily.
I can't thank you enough for making this video. I had what I thought would be a simple project become instantly complicated. I don't know what I would have done if I hadn't found your video. You're the man!
You're welcome, Adam. Glad to hear it was helpful 😊
While it is logical, I didn’t realize that F360 allows parameter changes to the existing model parameters like you demonstrated.
Thanks. I’ll definitely implement that!!!!!
Follow your channel for several month and I have to say that you are one of the best youtuber explaining Fusion 360. Thanks for that.
You make the best tutorials for any software I've ever seen! Please keep making these.
I really appreciate how Kevin takes a simple project like this and unpacks so many valuable lessons and resources from it. Very elegant use of the parametric features and Model Parameters Dialogue. I ALWAYS learn something new and useful from watching his tutorials. Thanks Kevin!
So true. I just did something similar to this and it was a train wreck compared to how he did it. I forgot about offset and shell, and projection is more powerful than I remembered lol. What I really want to learn is to improvise how he does. I do a lot of improvisation but it leads me down these super complex paths that take hours to get where I want, where he just does something that takes a couple of seconds lol.
Fantastic Video!! I was able to quickly design my own version with your help. I put a small ramped catch on the back of the lid that should snap in when assembled. I printed the lid face down to get a smoother texture from the Prusa print sheet. Thanks!!
Thanks, Kevin. I always learn new things from your tutorials.
Thanks for the helpful video Kevin. After seeing this I'll definitely be taking advantage of user parameters moving forward.
Recently subbed. I have unlearned so many bad habits! I love your emphasis on best practice. You have a real knack for creating and presenting educational content. Thank you for all your work.
Glad to hear that! Appreciate your kind words and support :)
Thank you Kevin, enjoy your lesson as always, you are the best!
Great stuff. I learnt how to use Fustion 360 without looking at a single tutorial because most of them were awful. But yours are amazing. And I've also learned some new stuff or things I've never thought of using before.
Superb. I learned a lot. Not just very knowledgeable, but you speak very clearly, saying no more than and no less than is needed. Thanks.
I learned SO MUCH from this video! You've earned my subscription!
Thanks Kevin, again an excellent video, so many useful hints and professional ways of doing - just great !
Had to subscribe, this idea of creating and printing random stuff is great cause sometimes there is that one thing you need to find out how to do on your design and this type of tutorial might cover that one thing you need help with. Thank you!
Love the real life footage.
This is really cool thank you, just a handy tip in the joint limit you can just add your length user pram that way if you do changed the length you will also change the joint limit as well :)
Once again, another amazing video. Amazing Fusion 360 tutorial series. Learned a lot!
Every time I check Kevin's video, no matter how difficult it may look, I have the confidence that I will surely learn and master it. The trust and confidence I got are invaluable. Thank you.
Glad to hear that, Leo. Keep at it! :)
Very good tutorial :) *Thumbs up* from me for sure. About how to "snap" the lid, I'd embed the magnets inside the lid at the backside and inside the box back side. That way the lid will stay closed without any visible "stops".
Thank you very much for the instruction, sure beats fumbling through learning on my own.
You have helped a great deal! Thank you so much for making it easy and simple to understand. You really have no idea how hard it was to find something that's simple and gets the job done. I didn't use your design but I took what I needed from it and now I can finally make my GFs damn Christmas present
Just starting to learn modeling for 3D printing and those videos are awesome! :O
Man, this is quality content! The only downside is that I learn how wrongly I've been doing things in Fusion
there are benefits from learning to do things the "wrong" way. Individuals have preferences on accomplishing the same tasks as well.
@@larrybud I've learned almost everything in fusion by first doing it the wrong way lol
Best fusion 360 tutorials ever!
Thank you for a great tutorial. I used the basic concept to create a channel and diffuser for LED strip lights for a project I am working. I can adjust the parameters to fit different width of LED strips. I this is my first project I have modeled from start to finish!
Sounds awesome. Congrats, Will!
Great stuff as always, thank you Kevin
Kevin has a knack for choosing projects with common uses.
Your videos are awesome! You present things so clearly. Thanks for sharing!
I had an idea for keeping the lid on. What about a little embedded hinged flap that would only open 90 degrees?
If would fold up flush to the bottom of the lid then swing down to act as a stop. Just a thought.
i literally love you i had a school project and this solves it all you are the best for real
another great tutorial. Bravo!
Thanks again for your great videos!!
Very informative video ! I learned how to project onto new sketches!
Really cool, will give that a go👍🏻
Just a great Video
Love your series
Great video. A note on how I would suggest setting the parameters. The outside dimensions probably don't matter for this box, what matters is what needs to go inside it. So I would set the height, width, and depth parameters for the inside dimensions and use formulas with the parameters to drive the outside dimensions, including the offset. So if I know the size of the object I want to put in there I don't have to do any math to figure out what number to put in for those outside dimensions.
just a matter of creating parameters for inside dimensions and using these in the parameters for the outside dimensions. Like: Length = inside_length+wall . Fusion does the math for you.
Thank you! Awsome!
Thank you for this excellent instruction. I managed to reproduce it successfully !
Working further on this topic, I've found another way of doing it, which, if you don't mind I'd like to share with you:
Instead of working with offsets on the sketch I tried the following:
Box and lid as seperate components, as you do it.
Create the box as a hollow, complete cube.
Create the lid with triangular profiles on the sides, sketch on the xz plane, extrude along the y axis.
Cut the lid from the top shell of the box using combine with the lid as tool and keeping the tool.
This creates a box with a slot for the lid, but without any gap, so it won't slide , of course.
The use the offset face command on the box's 4 slanted faces where the lid slides in. A value of -0.1 mm works for me (0.20 layers).
It gives the same results , but I found it a little bit easier.
Dude! This videois great! So many Tips and Tricks I have been doing the hard way in Fusion!
This was cool.
I have it printing right now. The lid came out nicely. We will see how well the .25 offset works on my max neo.
What I have in mind is to create project on the bottom of the box, remove the side that the opening for the lid is on and make the side a removable dove tail like the lid. On that project create a latch on the inside to hold the side in place. Put a stop on the bottom side of the lid. To assemble put the lid on the box and slide the front side of the box in place to latch in place. The offsets for the lid stop will be up to you.
Great videos. I am still a fledgling with Fusion 360.
After seeing how smooth the bottom of the box was, I decided to print the top again, but this time upside down and it came out great, including the finger notch. My heated bed is fairly new and smooth so it made for an excellent finish.
That's great, Hugh! What printer do you have?
@@ProductDesignOnline Creality Ender 3 - I also took advantage of printing the top upside down to also add a 20mm x 5mm rectangle at the bottom edge (under the finger pull) extruded to .3 mm with filets to act as a friction stop to keep it closed. Thanks again!!
Special Thanks for Umit because he has learnt new features... ;) It is totally nice video.
Thank you soo much ❤
Basically completed my entire engineering project thanks to this video.
Great design
Thanks for sharing :-)
very helpful thank you
You could create small nubs near the front of the lid and offset a spherical shape so it locks into place when the lid is fully in, you'd definitely want a good handle for that method. Alternatively, you could create a pin hole within the box edge where a securing pin could be inserted into the lid to hold it in place, changes to the lid style would yield better results for that method however. Also i find Curved lids are less likely to fall out easily because of the curvature, it depends on the shape, e.g. if the lid was slightly angle downwards towards the back end gravity would help keep it in place as opposed to a "perfectly level" slide track letting friction be the only pull force on the lid. creativity's the limit.
Really good and practical tutorial. I tried a thin bead of superglue about 4-5 mm long on the dovetail right at the outside and it seems to work fine and gives enough friction to keep the lid closed yet still open easily. I actually had to do it twice as the first one wasn't thick enough. As another viewer posted, I had trouble with the coincident constraint and spent an hour trying to repeat exactly what you did. I eventually got it to repeat, but still don't quite understand what we're doing there although I do know without it you can't change dimensions and have the cutout work. I tried w/o the constraint as you did and saw exactly why you need the constraint. I'll go back through a couple of your earlier videos on constraints.
What did you do to get it work? I restarted this project a few times, and must have made at least 5 sketches. Edit: I moved the line from the outside of the box to the inside.
Clear and straight-forward instructions! Thank you for an awesome, no non-sense tutorial! You got 1 new subscriber here :)
Thanks for your kind words and support!
I think for preventing the lid out of box, you can add two symmetrical shallow cut at each side of the sliding rail then extrude two short pins at bottom of trapezoid, so when lid fully slide out, the pin will stop it off from box.
K another great project thanks for sharing. If you drilled a small hole and threaded it, then a allen screw could be inserted to be used as a stop. A 3d printed key & keyway would also work thanks again
Join my Patreon to get all of my demo files ➞ patreon.com/productdesignonline
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*TIMESTAMPS*
0:00 - Creating a sliding lid in Fusion 360
0:27 - User Parameters preview
1:08 - Creating the box
1:50 - Making the box hollow
2:43 - Projecting the edge of the box
3:29 - Cutting out the dovetail shape
6:00 - Testing the dimensions
6:23 - Creating the lid of the box
7:45 - Factoring in the clearance
10:15 - Model Parameters into User Parameters
12:45 - Creating the thumb hold on the top
14:13 - Adding a sliding joint to the lid
Always enjoy watching your videos. I continue to learn something new about Fusion 360 each time I watch your tutorials. Keep up the great work! 👍
good day thank you for a lovely vid keep safe,.//.,
As Jorge J commented below, a flange will keep the lid from coming out, but it would also prevent it going in! If you end the dovetail at the same length that the flange begins, you can put it in. Or, a little trickier, add a hinged stop, sunk into the lid, that swings down when closed. Then you can hold it out of the way to remove or replace the lid .
Thanks!
Thanks for your support! Have a happy new year!
Thank you for this.. Im new to all this & it helped loads.. 5*
Great video tutorial, thank you! :) Am a total noob, I couldnt do any fancy geometry fix for the lid, so I just tighten the tolerances from 0,25mm to 0,05mm and the lid is now holding well :) Subscribing and hoping to learn more :)
I didn't use parameters but pretty the same. I make lid stop as a small bump on the lid. If you make two bumps one in front and one in back so it will be open stop and close stop . Nice work and thanks for lessons.
Laser box for digital distance laser meter found on #Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:3329499
Another dove tail closings by rotation Dial indicator box found on #Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:3325268
the same way you added the divet, you can add a locking divet. A notch running lenght of lid will ensure it clears, but locks once its pushed all way in. Done it many times.
Great, tip! Thanks for sharing, Felix :)
Hi. You can add a flange in the rear-bottom of the lid as a stop to avoid it taken out completely from the box.
Jorge Jaramillo this was my first thought.
@Michael Freyler Cut two holes close to end of the lid, then print a couple of pins to insert for a tight fit.
Add 2 limited-cycle living springs to the underside (2 makes it not twist around) of the lid near the edge. Wedge/ramp one side and square off the other or maybe not as sloped as to make it removable but with more force. Have it recess enough to be flush into the underside of the lid as it slides on past the wall.
This would be a cool tutorial.
I don't know if you ever resolved the issue of having the Box lid being retained or not, but after watching your video, the idea struck me of having some sort of separately 3D printed Peg or lip or something that you can put on to the lid after you've installed it.
It can really be anything, to square pegs, an entire Square lip the length of the lid, a dovetail shaped dowel bet you press fit into the back of the lid.
Any of these can be manufactured ahead of time and then put together after assembly. Of course there's going to be a minimum size where a person's fingers won't fit and articulate correctly to press fit the part in, but in many cases I imagine it might do the trick.
done!
To stop it from sliding out, add a snap latch to the bottom of the lid. Just add 2-3 layer slit above the latch (below whilst printing, has to be printed upside down) to allow plastic to deform while inserting and spring back once in place. Printed flat, there should be no issue as it's just simple bridge over the latch.
Great video ! Could you make a box with its individual faces that fit together to print all flat and then it can be assembly
Thanks for fantastic videos. Realy helps. Any idea how to slide lid in curve? I try to make a box for coffee filters. Happy new year.
8:24 - the only way I was able to get this to work is by making sure that the top two lines were projected along with the trapezoid. So, something in Fusion 360 has changed.
Awesome video man..but can u plz also tell how to give offset on sideways of the lid
Can you do a tablet stand on the next one? From scratch, without the spl file. Keep up with the great work.
Lid stopper idea: make 2 or 1 small hook(s) ( like a fishing hook )on the beginning of the lid. once inserted with a litlle force ( pla is a little bit flexibel) you wont be able to remove the lid “ >” > insertion only lifting up with a knife to overcome the highest part of the hook
Great video =D. Have you thought of making a tutorial about japanese joinery? It is traditionally used for wood working but as 3D prints have anisotropic properties similar to those of wood, i think that the techniques and geometries involved would be highly compatible, resulting in very strong joints for 3D printed parts. wdy think?
Hi, Santiago. I've used a lot of woodworking joinery techniques for some personal 3D printing projects. Great idea - I'll try to make some videos on them :)
Awesome =D
Would love to see that.
If it do some tapper minimum degree. It will be very much easy to . The cover doesn't escape from that.
Love that idea!
Keven- My eyes aren't what they used to be, so following the "bouncing ball" (Keystrokes/Pointer tracking) ..is another parameter of learning obstacle only you have medicine for.
Could you add an opaque circle to the pointer, and maybe a keystroke indicator? ...( sorry I don't have the vancular).
Thank you ! I ask this of you because your tutorials are the " Best Example " of how to present any given topic.
Good Job !!!
I reduced the tolerance from .2 to .15 and the lid was still loose. So, then I printed off just the lid with a .05 tolerance and with a very light sanding I got a very satisfying friction fit. Hope this helps.
the sanding was only on the angles edges btw
Lid stopper idea:
Extrude a guiderail in the joint from the back forward. Then add a small pin in the lid joint that slides along this inner guiderail of the box. A separate front face of the box needs to cover the guiderail and needs to be printed separately. The pin then stops at this front face. The front face needs to be attached after the lid is in place.
Great idea, Victor!
Hi, can you make a tutorial for intermediate users on how to improve their modelling skills, meaning some tips to improve the method and for doing it more organised
could add a nub under the thumb recess, so it locks the lid underside with the back wall
If you make a little nub on the back bottom of the lid, it won't slide out on its own, but you can still pull it out with a little bit of force. Plastic has enough flex for that. 😁
Great idea! I thought about it but was worried about getting the lid on... but I think you're right... it could be flexed enough to get it on :)
@Product Design Online . Could put a chamfer on edge to help it glide in. Another great video thx.
To stop the lid from coming off, I would think you could just put either an additional track on each side of the sliding parts, and then little "wings" at the end that stick out and run along the track. Various ways to do this, and difficult to explain in comments though.
I wonder if you shell the outside it would be easier too determine the required parameters for example you could then use the size of pack of cards too be the size
The easiest way I can think of is to design two small hooks like stuff in the face of the open part, two holes on the back part of the lid to catch on those hooks when it fully open, the lid drop and the hooks catch the lid to maintain fully open.
as usual great
can you make video about Autodesk ReCap Photo
Looks interesting! I haven't used it yet... I've only used iSense and some other 3rd party 3D scanners. I'll check it out though :)
How would I cut out the back corners if I wanted to extend the lid's bevel to include the back?
Thanks for the video!
Hey!
Great vid, I learned alot, and got it working.
One question though - I want to shell the back wall and have the whole thing fit in there to make it shut tight. So far i have made it, where the back is just a square hole, but i want to make i a triangle lige on the sides (So the slider on the sides also is on the back if that makes sense). How is that possible?
Thanks for the tutorials- How on earth did you select the top pieces for the offset at 8:24. I cannot select them to include them.
Hi is there anychance you could do a demo on something like a kitchen cupboard or wardrobe. I'm currently trying to design my camper van and would find I video like this very helpful.
Cheers.
Great Video and tutorial - Question for those who have printed this, can it be printed in 1 piece or do I need to print box and lid separately? Thanks
Print the lid separately. Printing together would likely require supports and not be worth it :)
I would have extended the lid so it would protrude into the other side's wall by 2mm instead of ending at the inside surface of the wall.
Great idea! :)
I like your ideal, it's the simplest no fuss choice that I have read, doing something like that would work just fine for catching the lid.
When I do the constraints selection, its not giving me that lock icon. I've recreate the box 5 times now and don't understand what I could be doing wrong. Can someone help me please?
You asked if anyone had any ideas for a capture for the lid? I have a question and a resolution for this.
Question: Can you design interference fit ? ...( I think you print separately and install )? (Ball Detent)?
Resolution: sketch a radiused boss running the threshold of the box, then have the receiver/nest on the underside of the lid.
Or you could offset the lids print position by half the body, print a square corner boss on the box ...and undercut the lid.
Good brain tease ...thanks !