Nice bandsaw, quick and easy setup. Looking forward to the review video after you’ve had time to put it through it’s paces!! Thanks for sharing Jason!!
I hope you enjoy your new saw. I’ve had an N4400 for about 10 years now and TBH, I’m sorry I bought it, especially given the price. The dust port is in the worst possible location, letting all the sawdust fall directly on to the lower wheel tire. Even with the little wheel brush, dust gets trapped between the blade and the tire, so it has to be manually cleaned off periodically or it will lead to tracking problems. I’m not a big fan of the blade guard or guides either. One of these days I really need to make a modification to improve the dust collection. I suppose if the N4400 is going to be the only BS in your shop you could be happy with it. It has plenty of power and resaw height, and versatility with the range of blade widths it can accept. But, if you are thinking of buying one of these, I would do a DEEP dive on exploring other options. I have a MiniMax MM24 which is an absolute joy to use. I keep a 1” carbide tooth blade on it. I got the NN4400 for curve cutting. In retrospect, I really wish I had bought an MM16.
That is what we need to hear. This is a partnership....sponsorship....free tools to say good things channel. Nothing more. Nothing wrong with that...but that is what so many of these woodworking channels have turned into...just partnership...advertising channels.
First, I don’t need these tools. I had great tools already. I was interested it trying them because I have been very impressed with the Hammer A3-41, which I paid for, years ago. Second, this was a how to assemble video. It was not a “hey this is the best tool ever” video. I put nice things in my shop because I like them. Not because others will. It’s my shop that I want to enjoy being in. Will there be things that I don’t like about the tool? Of course and those will be covered after I use it for a while. Just like anything else I have done. If the tools I use in my shop or the videos I make aren’t for a particular viewer, they don’t have to watch it. I make videos to help people, and I choose companies very selectively to work with. The fact that my channel isn’t littered with sponsored ad reads should prove that.
SCM makes great machines and I'm sure your MiniMax MM24 is fine example. I went with a Felder FB-510 Band Saw and I too absolutely love it. But these machines aren't for everyday DIY'ers, they are $$$, BIG and HEAVY. 😥 All the Best, Chuck
OK, thanks, I presumed there would be one at the bottom. I noticed the sawdust on the work table, that's why I asked. Shame there isn't dust collection there. Nice saw, nonetheless. I have a 14" Rikon, added a 2.5" port under the table.
What a nice piece of machinery! Enjoy the new toy 😄. Just one very little tip: replacing the straight plug by an angled plug helps quite a bit with heavy wires and it's less fatigue on the outlets.
I’m in the process of ordering the 4400 down here in Australia after much consideration. Was down to two options alongside the Harvey you had. So it’s interesting that you’ve ‘upgraded’ to the Hammer. I’d be interested in your thoughts about the comparison between the two once you live with it for a while. Thanks mate.
One thing you might encounter with that bandsaw is apparently the guide post tends to shift when you tighten the knob that locks it into position. This will affect the placement of the guides relative to the blade. Will be interested to hear if you run into that issue.
Adjust the guides with the guidepost tightened. That way when you loosen it to move it up or down and retighten it, it will relocate back to or align where you had adjusted the guides. Have a lovely day. 😎
Love the channel. I bought this because of your video. I did the unboxing today. At 1:11 when you “just lean” it to one side and the other. It was quite heavy. You are strong man hahahaha Thanks for making an awesome channel
In a similar boat. I have a Harvey bandsaw along with the a3 41. I'm thinking of upgrading bandsaw to felder 510 or larger. Im not a huge fan of the guides on the Harvey. Interested in a comparison of the guides along with how accurate the upper guide post is when you move it up and down.
I was surprised that you didn't break the machine down on the pallet - I always do that to avoid moving the motor/cast iron/accessories with the machine bases (any machine). You didn't show anything about the guides and their adjustment - are they ceramic blocks or rollers (looked like rollers on the bottom guide, but I'm not sure)? My big Laguna bandsaw (Italian-made) has ceramic blocks and I love them. I'll be buying the Hammer oscillating edge sander before the end of the summer. Best of luck!
Yeah big mistake. And yes, mine has the ceramic guides. I will be covering that in the follow up video. I didn’t find that particularly helpful for the assembly of the tool.
Interesting, i just got mine as well and by the way i live were the machine is actually manufactured (austria) pretty near Felder Group Headquarters and i see that the emergency stop in the us is a mechanical footbrake. the EU version is electronically stopped. Don’t understand why because if you have a an accident I don’t think you would be able to push that paddle?!
You did the plug wrong. You only need to strip off about an 1-1/2” of the insulating jacket on the cord. You want the cord clamp on the plug clamped on the outer jacket of the cord not the individual wires.
Would be interesting to hear your thoughts on going from the Harvey to the Hammer. I have been thinking about doing the same thing as I am not thrilled with Harvey as a company. How does the table height work for you?
Table height is uncomfortably low. As is the case with many bandsaws that are optimized for resaw capacity, I think they design the table height to be low to keep the overall height of the machine from getting too tall. My N4400 is currently on a stand that raises it maybe about 3” above the floor, which isn’t enough for accurate cutting such as following curves-very uncomfortable! I plan one raising it by at least another 6”.
Id be Interested in your placement of the blade on the wheels. For years I’ve been following the technique Snodgrass (on RUclips) recommended and have been been very happy. Your technique (if different) would be a welcome subject.
Hi, on blades wider than 16mm the tracking is to be set so the teeth overhang the front edge of the tire. On blades narrower than that centre them on the wheels. The ceramic guide blocks are also asymmetric with the ceramic off centre, you can flip them 180 degrees to support the blade properly depending upon blade width. Regards, Rod.
@@bentswoodworking I bought the a3-41 and the n4400, I have the sawstop, I’m wishing I would have bought a slider. The sawstop is great, don’t get me wrong, but the sliders just make sense.
I’ve had an N4400 for several years now. The location of the dust port is in a horrible location, giving sawdust every opportunity to fall on the lower wheel tire . I’ve been meaning to modify it, probably making some sort of shroud to capture the dust right below the table.
@@57hound Rikon and others have second (first?) port right beneath the table. I have the 10-351. Dust collection is stellar on that saw, guessing due to this dust port location.
I was very happy with my Harvey Alpha bandsaw. I have no complaints. However, that doesn’t mean I am not interested in trying other tools. It also gives me the ability to share my thoughts on different tools. I loved my sawstop and just sold it for the Hammer sliding table saw. Why would I do that? Cause I am very interested to see what using a sliding table saw is like. Doesn’t change my feelings on the sawstop
Almost identical to my Rikon 10-351 with the exception of my blade tension release handle. Guessing Hammer's is in a different location? Hope you enjoy this saw as much as I do. Curious how you like changing table angle, as the Rikon is a total pain. Edit: Now I also see this machine lacks Rikon's second dust collection chute right below the table. As @57hound points out, that may give you tracking fits that the Rikon does not experience.
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Nice bandsaw, quick and easy setup. Looking forward to the review video after you’ve had time to put it through it’s paces!! Thanks for sharing Jason!!
I hope you enjoy your new saw. I’ve had an N4400 for about 10 years now and TBH, I’m sorry I bought it, especially given the price. The dust port is in the worst possible location, letting all the sawdust fall directly on to the lower wheel tire. Even with the little wheel brush, dust gets trapped between the blade and the tire, so it has to be manually cleaned off periodically or it will lead to tracking problems. I’m not a big fan of the blade guard or guides either. One of these days I really need to make a modification to improve the dust collection. I suppose if the N4400 is going to be the only BS in your shop you could be happy with it. It has plenty of power and resaw height, and versatility with the range of blade widths it can accept. But, if you are thinking of buying one of these, I would do a DEEP dive on exploring other options. I have a MiniMax MM24 which is an absolute joy to use. I keep a 1” carbide tooth blade on it. I got the NN4400 for curve cutting. In retrospect, I really wish I had bought an MM16.
That is what we need to hear. This is a partnership....sponsorship....free tools to say good things channel. Nothing more. Nothing wrong with that...but that is what so many of these woodworking channels have turned into...just partnership...advertising channels.
First, I don’t need these tools. I had great tools already. I was interested it trying them because I have been very impressed with the Hammer A3-41, which I paid for, years ago. Second, this was a how to assemble video. It was not a “hey this is the best tool ever” video. I put nice things in my shop because I like them. Not because others will. It’s my shop that I want to enjoy being in. Will there be things that I don’t like about the tool? Of course and those will be covered after I use it for a while. Just like anything else I have done. If the tools I use in my shop or the videos I make aren’t for a particular viewer, they don’t have to watch it. I make videos to help people, and I choose companies very selectively to work with. The fact that my channel isn’t littered with sponsored ad reads should prove that.
SCM makes great machines and I'm sure your MiniMax MM24 is fine example. I went with a Felder FB-510 Band Saw and I too absolutely love it. But these machines aren't for everyday DIY'ers, they are $$$, BIG and HEAVY. 😥
All the Best, Chuck
Similar to some others, would be interested in direct comparison with the guides supplied with the Hammer vs the Harvey: adjustment, performance, etc.
OK, thanks, I presumed there would be one at the bottom. I noticed the sawdust on the work table, that's why I asked. Shame there isn't dust collection there.
Nice saw, nonetheless. I have a 14" Rikon, added a 2.5" port under the table.
What a nice piece of machinery! Enjoy the new toy 😄. Just one very little tip: replacing the straight plug by an angled plug helps quite a bit with heavy wires and it's less fatigue on the outlets.
This is actually plugged into an extension cord
That’s a good tip, thanks 🙏
This is a pretty slick machine Congrats!!
Congratulations for your nice new bandsaw.
I’m in the process of ordering the 4400 down here in Australia after much consideration. Was down to two options alongside the Harvey you had. So it’s interesting that you’ve ‘upgraded’ to the Hammer. I’d be interested in your thoughts about the comparison between the two once you live with it for a while. Thanks mate.
Informative setup video. Would love to hear that 1 year review of the N4400.
One thing you might encounter with that bandsaw is apparently the guide post tends to shift when you tighten the knob that locks it into position. This will affect the placement of the guides relative to the blade. Will be interested to hear if you run into that issue.
Adjust the guides with the guidepost tightened. That way when you loosen it to move it up or down and retighten it, it will relocate back to or align where you had adjusted the guides.
Have a lovely day. 😎
Love the channel.
I bought this because of your video.
I did the unboxing today. At 1:11 when you “just lean” it to one side and the other. It was quite heavy. You are strong man hahahaha
Thanks for making an awesome channel
Hi! Would love to see in detail the fine tuning of the ceramic protection slides, for I have one and I am always unsure if it’s well tuned!!!
Looks like a Harvey. Would be good to see a comparison video.
It’s a great saw. The strange miter slot is annoying though. Haven’t found anything that fits into it.
Hi Seth, it's a common metric mitre gauge slot size.
I make hardwood runners for jigs I use such as the log sawing carriage.
Regards, Rod.
ceramic guide adjustment video?
Beast mode. That’s a nice looking rig
It’s real nice!
In a similar boat. I have a Harvey bandsaw along with the a3 41. I'm thinking of upgrading bandsaw to felder 510 or larger. Im not a huge fan of the guides on the Harvey. Interested in a comparison of the guides along with how accurate the upper guide post is when you move it up and down.
You forgot to check if your miter slot is square to the blade. You should check that too. My new Grizzly bandsaw was out slightly.
I was surprised that you didn't break the machine down on the pallet - I always do that to avoid moving the motor/cast iron/accessories with the machine bases (any machine). You didn't show anything about the guides and their adjustment - are they ceramic blocks or rollers (looked like rollers on the bottom guide, but I'm not sure)? My big Laguna bandsaw (Italian-made) has ceramic blocks and I love them. I'll be buying the Hammer oscillating edge sander before the end of the summer. Best of luck!
Yeah big mistake. And yes, mine has the ceramic guides. I will be covering that in the follow up video. I didn’t find that particularly helpful for the assembly of the tool.
So did you sell the Harvey to get this one? What didn't you like about the Harvey?
Interesting, i just got mine as well and by the way i live were the machine is actually manufactured (austria) pretty near Felder Group Headquarters
and i see that the emergency stop in the us is a mechanical footbrake. the EU version is electronically stopped. Don’t understand why because if you have a an accident I don’t think you would be able to push that paddle?!
You did the plug wrong. You only need to strip off about an 1-1/2” of the insulating jacket on the cord. You want the cord clamp on the plug clamped on the outer jacket of the cord not the individual wires.
Would be interesting to hear your thoughts on going from the Harvey to the Hammer. I have been thinking about doing the same thing as I am not thrilled with Harvey as a company. How does the table height work for you?
I will probably talk about that a bit when I do the next video. I did like my Harvey bandsaw a lot as well
@@bentswoodworking I second this.
Table height is uncomfortably low. As is the case with many bandsaws that are optimized for resaw capacity, I think they design the table height to be low to keep the overall height of the machine from getting too tall. My N4400 is currently on a stand that raises it maybe about 3” above the floor, which isn’t enough for accurate cutting such as following curves-very uncomfortable! I plan one raising it by at least another 6”.
@@57hound I had not thought about that, but the resaw capacity makes sense on why more and more bandsaws have such low tables.
Id be Interested in your placement of the blade on the wheels. For years I’ve been following the technique Snodgrass (on RUclips) recommended and have been been very happy. Your technique (if different) would be a welcome subject.
Yeah, I was about to comment on the fact that, according to the Snodgrass method, the gullets should be in the center of the wheel. His are not.
Hi, on blades wider than 16mm the tracking is to be set so the teeth overhang the front edge of the tire. On blades narrower than that centre them on the wheels. The ceramic guide blocks are also asymmetric with the ceramic off centre, you can flip them 180 degrees to support the blade properly depending upon blade width.
Regards, Rod.
A pet peeve with even the higher end machine is plastic knobs and wheels. Hate them, and I find replacements made of metal.
Did you get the ceramic guides?
I did.
@@bentswoodworking I bought the a3-41 and the n4400, I have the sawstop, I’m wishing I would have bought a slider. The sawstop is great, don’t get me wrong, but the sliders just make sense.
Does partner mean you received ‘free of charge’ or significant discount?
This particular tool was provided at no cost.
man, Im jealous! all the good tool companies want to partner with you :)
I’m very fortunate
Is their dust collection on the machine?
Yes, there is one 5” port on the bottom
I’ve had an N4400 for several years now. The location of the dust port is in a horrible location, giving sawdust every opportunity to fall on the lower wheel tire . I’ve been meaning to modify it, probably making some sort of shroud to capture the dust right below the table.
@@57hound Rikon and others have second (first?) port right beneath the table. I have the 10-351. Dust collection is stellar on that saw, guessing due to this dust port location.
Не зажимайте сильно зажим линейки , он ломается ( трескается металл)
I feel like I just saw you talk about how happy you were with the Harey and I was looking into getting one of those. What gives?
I was very happy with my Harvey Alpha bandsaw. I have no complaints. However, that doesn’t mean I am not interested in trying other tools. It also gives me the ability to share my thoughts on different tools. I loved my sawstop and just sold it for the Hammer sliding table saw. Why would I do that? Cause I am very interested to see what using a sliding table saw is like. Doesn’t change my feelings on the sawstop
Money talks! When opportunity knocks, take it.
Almost identical to my Rikon 10-351 with the exception of my blade tension release handle. Guessing Hammer's is in a different location? Hope you enjoy this saw as much as I do. Curious how you like changing table angle, as the Rikon is a total pain. Edit: Now I also see this machine lacks Rikon's second dust collection chute right below the table. As @57hound points out, that may give you tracking fits that the Rikon does not experience.
Dust Collection?
It has a 5”port on the bottom
Please look for an electrician, to connect the plug in a correct way, open wires are dangerous, full insulation must go into the plug! Nice machine!
Why doesnt the machine come with a plug please?
There are several different types of outlets for 240V, you install the plug that matches your outlet.
What happened to the Harvey?wasnt good enough?
Just want to try the Hammer. There was nothing wrong with the Harvey