I love how everything isn't exact. So many people get so caught up in making everything fit perfectly with exact measurements that don't really matter to the end product. This is great!
Just a suggestion: glue two lids together facing in opposite directions so when you are done cooking you can screw a jar on to cover the copper coil to prevent evaporation. That way you can store it for future use with the Alcohol in the wick jar.
Whisperin Pints he is says attach another lid to the existing one and then you can screw on a second jar to cover the coil assuming the coil is short enough
Henry Avery I think just dumping out any left over alcohol would be just as good. A quart can of denatured alcohol is still fairly cheap at the hardware store and 91% rubbing alcohol is even cheaper at the pharmacy.
I'd run a fishing line into the copper tube. Tie it to the wick so I could pull it through. Fishing line will quickly go through the tube. I really enjoyed your video. You are an excellent teacher!
A good idea if you wanted the wick to go all the way through the loop, but here there is no wick in the copper tubing loop, only up each copper tubing leg that feeds into the loop. See, you're not actually burning the wick; the two wicks absorb liquid and fill the loop with butane gas, not butane liquid. When he says "prime it" he means just that, filling that loop with gas. Because its an airtight system when the gas ignites it creates a negative pressure which forces more liquid up the wicks where the copper pipe is hot, converting the liquid to gas and into the loop. So, the fishing line idea wouldn't work here.
JB just on the bottom works just fine. Also, if you don't have sand, sugar works fine. That's 1/4in copper if anyone is curious. ANY jar works fine. Any fuel works fine. Just sealed.
@GF_Burke what about the hole in the copper ?? Should it be a VERY small hole ?? I tried to make one (10mm copper tube) but it won’t work.. It will only burn with a small flame, I wonder what I’m doing wrong 🤔
This has probably been mentioned already, but you can substitute frozen water for the sand. Tightly crimp one end of the copper then fill with water and crimp the remaining end. Freeze it and bend it to whatever shape you need. I have built many radio transmitters over the past 6 decades using this method to make power amplifier tank coils. Nice video! Thanks for sharing. --Mick
the rubber caps are tight enough to hold water to freeze method [this is 1/4 inch ice maker line. rolls come with caps as intended for potable connection]
Table salt works wonders too.. or any stuff that desolves in water. Not an issue here, but try using sand with a 10-15 wrap coil n getting it out... :D
oh my god I used to use rubbing alcohol to heat my bedroom when I was super poor. I built all kinds of crazy ways to control and boost the radiant heat. best one i ever made I called the "fire flower," it was basically a perforated flower bulb shape with petals, made entirely from folded aluminum foil. The pedals would help hold and control the flames and the perforations in the bulb allowed the fumes to come out in a measured manner. It was SUPER effective, but of course had to be rebuilt every 2 weeks or so. This is amazing to me
This was a great video! Using your directions with a couple modification, I built three stoves to use as decorative tabletop heaters by adding a small aluminum half-cylinder about 8" tall JB Welded to the backside of the jar lid with another jar lid capping off the top to serve as a reflector, and a mantle made of 5" tall steel mesh rolled and crimped to sit on top of the jar lid, inside the reflector. I JB welded a chili can lid to the top of the mantle as a cap. Once the copper loop is lit, the mantle heats up and glows red, becoming an IR heater which amplifies and concentrates the heat produced. I used the muffler repair version of JB Weld since it's supposed to be more thermally resistant, but that's probably not necessary at these temperatures.
I like to prime mine by flipping over two times real quick. Heat from auto parts store or denatured alcohol works allot better, you don't end up with the 10, 20, 30% water in the bottom. I took a big open channel aluminum computer heat sink and put over one of my smaller ones and it made a great little heater. Of course always do this in a big aluminum turkey pan. You can put a big ceramic pot over the top and it radiates allot of heat.
Ths is really neat. I have some 1/4" copper tubing and JB Weld in the garage so I am going to put them to good use. Like the comments about improving the design - adding a reverse cap so we can seal the jar when not in use and heating with a bottle cap. To that end, I plan to weld a small container of some sort under the coil so it can be filled with fuel and lit to heat up the coils when starting the unit since I doubt I will be carrying a torch with me. That is how we primed the burners of the old kerosene stoves we had back home.
Its a perfect idea for camping purposes for a cup of coffee /tea. Reusable refrigerant copper tubing is also good material. Its only a matter of innovation for people who explore the future.
You should soak the wicks in alcohol before twisting them up the tube. Seems like that would make it much easier. Also, you could use the end of a toothpick to seal the hole when not in use.
This reminds me of a project I did as a kid where I made a similar coil of copper and used a tea candle to power a little boat in water. The coil and candle kept a flow of water that propelled the boat. You mention that the drill bit is acting like a punch and leaving the metal burrs behind. With the issues you had drilling the lid... You actually should use a punch. The jobber will work fine as well but both require a hard enough backing material so that the pressure you apply to the cutting tool does not deform your lid. Also, start with a smaller drill bit.
I live on a ranch with a few hundred fruit trees. We always have a huge amount of fruit loss to birds and insects like wasps, so I have decided to make burning ethanol from the discarded fruit. I could use a burner like this instead of spending money on propane. In fact, I would like to try to use a few to heat a small room with the inverted clay pot heater idea.
Neat trick! I have a multi-fuel stove that does a similar thing vaporizing fuel, just with a metered flow instead of a wick. It's cleanest with white gas, but will work with kero/deisel/jet, lamp oil, even most petroleum solvents (stay clear of fumes!), and alcohols. For yours, therefore, I imagine you're not limited to alcohol, and predict kerosene will work very well in there, albeit with a bit of soot. Please do be very careful if you try anything more volatile / lower flash point/ higher vapour pressure than alcohol - and gasoline is _right out!_ Mine is an old old MSR Whisperlight, if you're wondering. Very light, very reliable, fully user serviceable. I also love that the fuel is manually pressurized in its companion bottle at run time, stored unpressurized, and needs no consumable fuel bottles. For some fuels there's a wick needed for the pilot burn (your "prime") and for some emergency fuels like alcohol or some solvents, the fuel pump valve and component would need to be serviced afterwards, but burn it sure will.
I employed your idea but instead of using the "Kerr or Ball" tin plate lid, I used a piece of copper sheet and sweat soldered the copper coil burner to the copper plate lid. once cooled down, I made a thin gasket using high temp silicone (2,000 degree rated) used to seal cast iron stoves and BBQ'S. Turned out great. thanks for sharing your project. Kind regards! Eric Dee.
Well, I told people in the comment section here when they talked about soldering the copper to the steel lid, it was impossible. And it is. But replacing the lid with copper sheeting is perfect! Great idea! That’s how I’m making mine. Thanks.
Iridium 242 Dear are many good videos on how to make this stove. What makes your tutorial special is your fine personality, and giving the viewer confidence that he or she can make this stove, and they don"t have to be perfect with the details. If you are not a professional teacher, then i believe you would be an excellent mentor!! Thank you for a job well done. Bruce the swimmer New Rochelle N.Y.
My first camping stove was a cheap POS based on this principle. It was made of some kind of brass-like metal, had detachable L-shaped pot supports like upside-down legs, and was designed for white gas. Gave it a brief test and it seemed OK. First trip out, it developed a case of thermal runaway, shooting 8-inch green (copper) flames out either side of the coil, right past my little camp pan. I thought it was going to kill us or burn the park down. Scary experience shutting it down too. Never used it again.
This is really cool because you can use this as a standard alcohol burner for chemistry type experiments or even micro-biological work. Moreover, if you pre-cut the wick to the length of the copper tubing, and then run it through the tube before making your bends; it will eliminate some of your final steps in the production process. One of the other things that I like about this burner is that not only does it give off a good amount of heat but the flame is not as bright as an ordinary flame from a candle and therefore it gives you a tactical advantage when light discipline is important. Overall, it is a very useful tool. :-)
Filling the evaporation coil with solid fuel gives you a yellow flame because you are burning cotton, with an accelerant. Only worse light discipline than that is acetylene. Just knock it off. If you cosplay as gi joe when shtf all that happens is the real Boogeyman knows which house the guns are in. Lol, light discipline. I can see the end of your cigarette glowing in the woods and illuminating trees for a quarter mile. Longer if the leaves are down.
@@Altrag_ Cool your jets buckaroo. I can spot a cigarette too. Sometimes, my comments aren't only to get the author to think but rather, the directed audience. As for being a soldier, I was probably a soldier long before you were born (before video game armchair warriors). Next time, try to be a little more gracious with the comments and more understanding with whom you are speaking.
@@rogerstillwell7176 Roger your idea is still very bunk ...your not saving steps your ruining the burner and then also burning the snot outta your wick
Sand tip is great, I would say drill it out while still in the vice it would make it easier, if you use copper fridge pipe you would get a thicker wall and it measures at 3/8 Imperial or 9mm Metric Great video
This is the same type of stove I used in a boyscouts 4 week adventure. It was a Philmont type of summer camp. We rode horses but we backpacked everywhere. They resupply the meals every week. Haven't seen these stoves since. Mine was probably from the 50s when I was using it in the 80s. It was copper and brass.
Brilliant idea! I actually suffer from mental health problems and you have got me all excited to try this project! So glad I happened upon your channel. As a big thank you I subscribed, too!! Thank you for making me feel good, I haven't felt too good in quite a while!! ☺️🤗❤️👍🔥
THANK YOU SO MUCH for a neat little video!!! It was presented well and made it look easy, especially for beginner DYI enthusiasts. Only basic tools required. Something I've found to help, (I keep on on my hobby-bench), take an old ball-point pen apart and save the bottom section. Straighten out a Large paperclip and, with needle-nose pliers, bend a small loop in one end, tiny enough to easily go down inside the ink-pen barrell, and lightly, flatten the tip, on the other end. Mix up some five minute JB weld and, with a popsicle stick, fill the ink-pen barrell up. Then insert the straightened out. Paper-clip. Use the old ink-pen refill, to push it out the other end till at least 1 1/2" is out there, and clean JB weld off the wire. Put the glue back in the barrell, that got shoved out when the refill came back out and screw the clip end back on with a little JB weld on it too...and forget it over night. (since it's inside, sometimes it takes longer to harden well.) This will be about the right size to do little tight pushing and probing hobby operations. It will also aid in installing your wick. ((A quick version would be to just open a large paperclip, almost up, and use the bent part for a handle, and lightly flatten the tip. Not as comfortable, but will still work). THANKS AGAIN. One quick question...is that RUBBING ALCOHOL you're using or ETHYL ALCOHOL. (You went by the camera too fast with the bottle label, for me to see the type of fuel.) I GOT TO BUILD ME ONE OF THESE.
You do a super job explaining everything. About the wick, one thing that might work is to first measure a piece of thin wire to the same size as the coil. Take the piece that goes to the right coil, connect it to the wire you just measured, connect the other end to the other wick that will go on the other side of the coil, thread it thru the copper tube BEFORE making the coil. Have both wicks out of each end as you described THEN fill the tube with the sand, cap each end over the wick, and make the coil. The wire will stay in the pipe with the wicks attached from each end as you so eloquently described how to do. Might work.
That wouldn't work as well for bending the tubing. A wick compresses a lot more than sand does and would more easily produce kinks during bending. Since the wick is only needed in the legs, insert them after you make the coil. A short length of wire, like from a leftover piece of hose wiring, or a kitchen skewer would easily help shove the wick up the leg, especially if you double the wick over the end.
Thanks for sharing. I’m going to try with a wider jar and three aligned copper coils just enough to carry a pot. I want to use it as a mini stove. Wish you the Best! A lot of Blessings.
This is a very good idea of getting the fuel to the heated coil through a wick rather with the compressed air as we used to do with the old Primus! Rather than drilling the two holes with an exact drill, it would provide more support to the coil if one uses a smaller drill then with a tapered wooden screw, push the taper slowly in the hole till the extra material is burred/ bent over till the diameter is correct. The extra material left bent over in the hole will give better vertical support to the coil. If the coil is soldered or glued in there would be a better joint.
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Duuuude .. The *Sand/dirt packed thru the copper-line to prevent pinching or kinking.. 😯 Idk if it's a new idea/ your original idea, or perhaps I'm just late to the party on that one, but... GENIUS. 👀🧠💥👌 👏 🤯 GENIUS.
Awesome device ! I’m for sure going to make one ! You could set it inside a # 10 can or metal coffee can to give you something to set a pan or pot on. It would need to be open on both ends and have air holes in the side! A step drill works extremely well on thin metal ! It won’t grab like a regular drill bit !
Great design! 👍🏻😄 If you leave the metal pipe in the middle of your copper twist when you pinch it in the vice it'll come out more evenly. Para cord probably wouldn't work very well because it's made out of synthetic materials, you need something cotton, but you can buy round kerosene wicks at different thicknesses, I'm sure one would probably fit in there I have a really small kerosene lantern that has a round wick which looks to be about that exact same size as your copper tubing. The thing you said about the JB Weld being able to take extreme heat is accurate, I'm not sure exactly what the heat rating is but I used one to fix a part in my engine which was cracked and it's never come open.
Oh yeah I forgot to say if you put a piece of hardwood behind the lid when you're drilling it it won't pucker out as much and it will be easier to clean up. Thanks for the video.
JBW is good cars and engines get hot. I once repaired an oven and it was great. I used it 3 years before i moved from that apartment. Going strong when i left.
if you want to make larger ones, take a string tie it to the end of the wick. use a small keyboard vacuum and vacuum out one side. The string will feed through and you can pull the wick to the right position! it would be cool to see a double or triple loop... Great concept!!! thank you plan on making a few myself
I saw another video like this but the jar was much larger, wick much longer and was built and used to heat greenhouses. Wondering how warm an area it can heat and how long. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
I have a 5ft x 5ft x 6 ft deer stand that is insulated and one of of these made out of a pint jar heats it just fine. On a mid 40s day it easily gets it to mid 70s inside the stand.
Thank you. Cap fuel jar with intact lid to save fuel. Put stove cap on another jar for storage. Soda bottle cap priming tool with cotton ball wick is cleaver suggestion. Burn test results? Boiling time? (2 cups @ 212°F) Burn time? Stove holder? Wind break? Why does burner have the loop??? Brilliant concept with simple design. We really like it. For sale???
I use fine grain salt when I bend small thin copper pipes because to be sure that I get everything out I just put it in water and let the salt disolve.
Im going to make one tonight and I will measure the btu's and add that info to my comments in case anyone is interested. Thinking about making one with several flame heads on a larger jar as well. Great vid!
I would suggest cutting a 12" × 12" piece of plywood and glue it to the bottom of the jar. To prevent knocking it over!😮 Plus building a metal frame over it for cooking. Tip: you could also put the jar in a bucket of sand with a band of copper. With both end in deep into the sand to heat the sand up as a long running heater. Plus, you could also have a frame over top for cooking or you could sit a terracotta pot over top of that as a heat storage space heater to. Just like for the 72 hour candles.❤
I personally would love to just go into Home Depot or Lowe's and have a copper wire already cut and designed for me. This way if I do not want the extra material, it keeps it quick and simple for several different types of projects. Cool idea.
Similar alcohol burners had been produced commercially in Japan for school laboratory use and for mountaineering. I prefered to use my alcohol burner with three loops for mountaineering over gas/gasoline/paraffin oil burners because of reliability. Later imported Trangia burner expelled them from the market.
Excellent design and 2 which I have made both work great . Added a small amount of fiberglass house insulation inside the jar which helps to keep the fuel from "sloshing" around . Thank you once again Iridium 242 and have an excellent New Year !
Cool. If you don't have, can't find, or don't want to buy wicks, you can use cotton balls. Just unroll one and twist it into a fine thread. When it pulls the fuel up into the tube, it will expand to completely fill the tube.
That is the best explanation and video of any project I've ever seen. Simple straight forward, well edited, this guy has loads a brains and common sense
When I saw the project you made, I realized that it could be put inside a metal coffee can or a #10 tomato juice can with several holes drilled in the bottom of the larger can, and a piece of metal screening on the top of it, to make it into a stove capable of warming up coffee or a can ofsoup... even cooking breakfast
Yeah a few weeks or days after I did this vid, I did another in my "hobo stove" which is a coffee can, it worked great! ruclips.net/video/_W3x97M7qSI/видео.html
This i know us going to sound mean, but i dont mean for it to. Man you made something wonderful, people can use in case of a 911 or any time. YOU GOT THE IDEA, AND SHARED, no one else knew thats why we all watched. Did any one noticed how every other person told him what he should have done or how to fix it better. GUY, I do think you did a great job, and thanks for the share.
You don't need glue. Just solder it with tin-lead solder. This is easy to do, just stick the coil into the cap in place and heat it up on a gas stove or burner, adding solder to the place to be soldered.
Wonderful way showing it. I can see why is very efficiansy, your fumes are sealed and no place to escape accept just the hole that's burning . Well done...
Follow up: Single flame in the middle does not waste any heat with my kettle, No wasted flames up the side of the kettle just a nice little spread in the center when used as a burner in my Ohuhu gasifier stove which acts as a windbreak. Not very quick but efficient enough....set and forget for a cup at a time!
Phones are learning your patterns they’re becoming you and reading your mind. I saw this video 6 years ago when it was first posted. I don’t watch this kind of stuff it’s not a typical suggestion for me. Earlier today I thought about the this video and the little copper coil. And just now, after 6 years, the same day It randomly popped into my head, it shows up on RUclips again. I don’t believe it
Take a second lid. Remove the inner seal. Glue/seal it onto the top of the lid of the copper coil. When you're done with your burn, use another mason jar to screw onto the top. You wont burn yourself and you wont waste alcohol through evaporation.
The point is that the flame will go out; it will also prevent the alcohol from evaporating. Instead of escaping trough the little hole, it has nowhere to go.
You might be able to do so, however the added benefit of the second jar is that it protects the coil, and more importantly, the connections with the lid. This would make the thing as sturdy as the glass jars, which would be great for transport. Also, there would be no need to wait for it to cool.
Try regular 9-hour J-B Weld it's more high heat resistance being that copper is a conductor of temperature, I remember I had a 67 Mustang with a cracked exhaust manifold couldn't afford to get it fixed but 9 our JB will would last for almost a month
Great ide and good execution of build. One piece of advice for future builds though. Take an inner strand from paracord and blow it through the bent tubing and tie one end to a length of wic that is 1" lonher than the tube and pull the wic through. The full length wic will cut down priming if youre on a pinch.
It's a nice project. I like it! But, I'll use 1/4" tubing bender and a tube cutter to make it easier you don't need to fill up the tube with sand. Thank you for sharing.
Well, it’s been a year Jakk L. Have you figured out that you can’t make a tight enough loop with a tubing bender yet? I didn’t even have to try it to know that. But yeah, the sand isn’t necessary and a bitch to get out of the coil.
Interesting project. This looks like the same principle that's used in Coleman white gas (naptha) camp stoves & lanterns, and also in some lanterns and heaters from Europe that burn kerosene. With kerosene fuel, it would be necessary to have some sort of small primer cup (a bottle cap would do) under the coil. Alcohol is put in the pre-heat/priming cup, and burns for about 3 minutes. By that time, the Kerosene has wicked up into the copper tube, is vaporizing, and comes out of the burner orifice, making a very strong, hot flame. Some experimenting would be needed - I suspect that the burner jet hole in the coil might have to be slightly larger. However, The design principle is exactly the same as my 1958 Optimus kerosene lantern (made in Sweden), and also in a tent heater made by Tilley (a British company) in the 1950's and 60's. There are other brands as well - the most well known is probably Primus. I have a tiny little Primus stove bought by my dad about 1960, and it is a very efficient (and compact) unit. I have a Coleman Peak 1 "compact" white gas stove - it's about 1-1/2 times the size of the old Primus, has to be pumped up, and also gives off less heat. So, it would be interesting to see if this design would work with Kerosene. I think a "snuffer" made from the bottom 2/3 of a soda can might be a good accessory for your alcohol stove. Just drop it over the burner coil and the stove would go out. Thanks for posting this.
QUESTION: Can a larger diameter, taller jar be used to increase burn time? If so, should the copper tubes go down further into the jar? (I know the wicks will be harder to get up to the bend.) SUGGESTION: To those worried about the JB Weld, I believe they make a HIGH TEMPERATURE JB Weld product.
The jar is just to store the fuel. The wick stuffed up the legs of the coil (and the outlet hole) keep the vapor pressure from driving the fuel back into the jar. Use whatever size container you like. The point of sealing the jar lid around the legs of the coil is to prevent fuel fumes from escaping and igniting somewhere you don't want to burn.
Great job, and nice instructions! One suggestion -- I think you could cut your priming time down if you ran the wick all the way through. One way to do that is to a properly-sized round wick, especially a fiberglass one. If you can't find a wick that moves smoothly through, you could run a cable or wire leader and attach that to whatever wick you're using that so you can pull it through. With a wick that goes all the way through, the alcohol will be wicked right up to the hole and will prime much more quickly. You might even be able to get it to run on kerosene! One other thing you might try is to put fiberglass batting in the jar to hold the fuel and prevent sloshing.
I think getting full wick thru tube is more important than a pretty twist. You can prevent kinks by using wider wrap to start then twisting entire loop set alone.
IF you run the wick all the way the burn time will be lower as you will be burning LIQUID, BUT by shortening the wicks, you will be burning GAS, at a longer rate of time,
When I mix jb weld or any other 2 part epoxy I put both parts in the corner of a sandwich bag and squeeze out the air. Next, twist the bag to keep the two parts in the corner and begin kneading until the epoxy becomes homogenous. Now you can snip the corner of the bag and squeeze out your epoxy like icing on a cake. This method keeps the epoxy off of you and makes for minimal cleanup. Also, you can check to see if the epoxy left in the bag has hardened w/o disturbing your project. Great video by the way, thanks!
Nice build, thank you. I notice that you have a tall yellow flame indicative of incomplete combustion; you would probably get a cleaner burn (blue flame) with a smaller hole on the tube.
You can boil a litre of water in a few minutes with a handful of tinder and a fire that Never is bigger than 4” around. I like this stove but For hiking ultralight it’s kinda bulky and heavy, and glass, well I would rather find a way to make it from tin or aluminium and make it compactable. The principle is good as is the result and it would be worth experimenting with ways to make it better. I imagine that it would be more efficient than the open burner alcohol stoves.
They’ve used to use JBk weld to put cracked heads back together, on flathead engines. I wouldn’t ty it on Overheqd Valve engines because there are too many weather jackets and passages in those, but when repairing cracks in the ports of OHV heads the machine shop I worked for used thread weld plugs. In that method you ground the area to be repaired clean with a Drexel or air tool with a stone type polishing bit. Then you start on the outside of the crack on both ends and drill and tap the holes, screw in the cold weld plugs and lubricate or coat the threads of the plugs with JB weld as you go. Work you ways in from the outside of the crack and then grind the area smooth after breaking off the top of the plugs. When your done you’ve got a crack repair that will never fail. J B Weld is the stuff!
Aahh ha-haa-haah! Right you are fine sir. Thank you kindly for the advice and for the laughter it produced. I hope you have a good day and may God bless you & your loved ones! PEACE from NC.
This is amazing! Do you think in hindsight you could make one larger so it could hold more alcohol so it will burn longer ( say a jam jar) wondering if anyone has done a bigger one than this? Regards
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I love how everything isn't exact. So many people get so caught up in making everything fit perfectly with exact measurements that don't really matter to the end product. This is great!
Thanks, yeah when I did this it was really just a casual thing, was never thinking this many people were going to watch it lol..
Some of us can’t help ourselves. I Don’t look down on those who don’t have the same affliction, though.
I have one question, why not just sweat the pipes into the lid instead of the JBWeld?
A guitar string works great for getting the wick into the copper tube, very flexible and very sturdy.
Just a suggestion: glue two lids together facing in opposite directions so when you are done cooking you can screw a jar on to cover the copper coil to prevent evaporation. That way you can store it for future use with the Alcohol in the wick jar.
What about the tubing that projects out BOTH SIDES of the lid? Don't put away your thinking cap yet, Henry.
Whisperin Pints he is says attach another lid to the existing one and then you can screw on a second jar to cover the coil assuming the coil is short enough
Henry Avery I think just dumping out any left over alcohol would be just as good. A quart can of denatured alcohol is still fairly cheap at the hardware store and 91% rubbing alcohol is even cheaper at the pharmacy.
I think two RINGS glued upside down to each other is what would work best...
I LOVE this idea. I would do that for home emergency use... larger jar on the bottom. same size coil. smaller jar on top. EASY STORAGE. GREAT tip.
I'd run a fishing line into the copper tube. Tie it to the wick so I could pull it through. Fishing line will quickly go through the tube.
I really enjoyed your video. You are an excellent teacher!
A good idea if you wanted the wick to go all the way through the loop, but here there is no wick in the copper tubing loop, only up each copper tubing leg that feeds into the loop. See, you're not actually burning the wick; the two wicks absorb liquid and fill the loop with butane gas, not butane liquid. When he says "prime it" he means just that, filling that loop with gas. Because its an airtight system when the gas ignites it creates a negative pressure which forces more liquid up the wicks where the copper pipe is hot, converting the liquid to gas and into the loop. So, the fishing line idea wouldn't work here.
I had the same thought, fish tape the wick in, unless that cent of the coil needs to be empty
Mr C it’s an alcohol stove not butane. Butane is pressurized and would need only to open the valve to allow it to flow
@@mr.curviac8277 How does rubbing alcohol convert into butane gas??
@@crazysquirrel9425 Pass. 😆
One of my favourite video's from George! Love this. God bless.
Glad you enjoyed it
JB just on the bottom works just fine. Also, if you don't have sand, sugar works fine. That's 1/4in copper if anyone is curious. ANY jar works fine. Any fuel works fine. Just sealed.
Thank you for giving out the measurement
@@aazv23 Thinners for paints? Please.
@GF_Burke what about the hole in the copper ?? Should it be a VERY small hole ??
I tried to make one (10mm copper tube) but it won’t work..
It will only burn with a small flame, I wonder what I’m doing wrong 🤔
@@cabomful The small flame is just when it's getting started, keep heating it up. should take off.
This has probably been mentioned already, but you can substitute frozen water for the sand. Tightly crimp one end of the copper then fill with water and crimp the remaining end. Freeze it and bend it to whatever shape you need.
I have built many radio transmitters over the past 6 decades using this method to make power amplifier tank coils.
Nice video! Thanks for sharing.
--Mick
That doesn't cause problems from the water expanding when it freezes? Do you need to cut your tube longer to account for that or anything?
Table salt works too Mick.
the rubber caps are tight enough to hold water to freeze method [this is 1/4 inch ice maker line. rolls come with caps as intended for potable connection]
The sand tip is worth every minute of this video.
Ya,the sand tip was the hack!!
I've also heard of people putting water in the pipe and then freezing it to accomplish the same.
Yep, that sand tip will come in handy
Table salt works wonders too.. or any stuff that desolves in water. Not an issue here, but try using sand with a 10-15 wrap coil n getting it out... :D
You can also seal one end of tube fill it with water seal the open end and freeze works great also.
oh my god I used to use rubbing alcohol to heat my bedroom when I was super poor. I built all kinds of crazy ways to control and boost the radiant heat. best one i ever made I called the "fire flower," it was basically a perforated flower bulb shape with petals, made entirely from folded aluminum foil. The pedals would help hold and control the flames and the perforations in the bulb allowed the fumes to come out in a measured manner. It was SUPER effective, but of course had to be rebuilt every 2 weeks or so.
This is amazing to me
This was a great video! Using your directions with a couple modification, I built three stoves to use as decorative tabletop heaters by adding a small aluminum half-cylinder about 8" tall JB Welded to the backside of the jar lid with another jar lid capping off the top to serve as a reflector, and a mantle made of 5" tall steel mesh rolled and crimped to sit on top of the jar lid, inside the reflector. I JB welded a chili can lid to the top of the mantle as a cap. Once the copper loop is lit, the mantle heats up and glows red, becoming an IR heater which amplifies and concentrates the heat produced. I used the muffler repair version of JB Weld since it's supposed to be more thermally resistant, but that's probably not necessary at these temperatures.
That's 1/4" copper refrigeration tubing and the other one is a 1/2" x 3" nipple. Cool project!!
I like to prime mine by flipping over two times real quick. Heat from auto parts store or denatured alcohol works allot better, you don't end up with the 10, 20, 30% water in the bottom. I took a big open channel aluminum computer heat sink and put over one of my smaller ones and it made a great little heater. Of course always do this in a big aluminum turkey pan. You can put a big ceramic pot over the top and it radiates allot of heat.
Ths is really neat. I have some 1/4" copper tubing and JB Weld in the garage so I am going to put them to good use. Like the comments about improving the design - adding a reverse cap so we can seal the jar when not in use and heating with a bottle cap. To that end, I plan to weld a small container of some sort under the coil so it can be filled with fuel and lit to heat up the coils when starting the unit since I doubt I will be carrying a torch with me. That is how we primed the burners of the old kerosene stoves we had back home.
Its a perfect idea for camping purposes for a cup of coffee /tea. Reusable refrigerant copper tubing is also good material. Its only a matter of innovation for people who explore the future.
those look like 1/2 pint jars how long will they burn full?
You should soak the wicks in alcohol before twisting them up the tube. Seems like that would make it much easier. Also, you could use the end of a toothpick to seal the hole when not in use.
Considering your a robot, your probably correct.
@CJ Wilemon What if I do him?
This reminds me of a project I did as a kid where I made a similar coil of copper and used a tea candle to power a little boat in water. The coil and candle kept a flow of water that propelled the boat. You mention that the drill bit is acting like a punch and leaving the metal burrs behind. With the issues you had drilling the lid... You actually should use a punch. The jobber will work fine as well but both require a hard enough backing material so that the pressure you apply to the cutting tool does not deform your lid. Also, start with a smaller drill bit.
Leave the metal from the drill hole intact
It gives the JB WELD more surface area to hold onto
JB WELD will cover up the sharp metal
JB might dry up & crack with time
Nice presentation. FYI: I used gauze strips and spun them tightly using my drill then pulled them through with a fine wire...Works great.
I live on a ranch with a few hundred fruit trees. We always have a huge amount of fruit loss to birds and insects like wasps, so I have decided to make burning ethanol from the discarded fruit. I could use a burner like this instead of spending money on propane. In fact, I would like to try to use a few to heat a small room with the inverted clay pot heater idea.
Neat trick! I have a multi-fuel stove that does a similar thing vaporizing fuel, just with a metered flow instead of a wick. It's cleanest with white gas, but will work with kero/deisel/jet, lamp oil, even most petroleum solvents (stay clear of fumes!), and alcohols.
For yours, therefore, I imagine you're not limited to alcohol, and predict kerosene will work very well in there, albeit with a bit of soot. Please do be very careful if you try anything more volatile / lower flash point/ higher vapour pressure than alcohol - and gasoline is _right out!_
Mine is an old old MSR Whisperlight, if you're wondering. Very light, very reliable, fully user serviceable. I also love that the fuel is manually pressurized in its companion bottle at run time, stored unpressurized, and needs no consumable fuel bottles. For some fuels there's a wick needed for the pilot burn (your "prime") and for some emergency fuels like alcohol or some solvents, the fuel pump valve and component would need to be serviced afterwards, but burn it sure will.
I employed your idea but instead of using the "Kerr or Ball" tin plate lid, I used a piece of copper sheet and sweat soldered the copper coil burner to the copper plate lid. once cooled down, I made a thin gasket using high temp silicone (2,000 degree rated) used to seal cast iron stoves and BBQ'S. Turned out great. thanks for sharing your project.
Kind regards!
Eric Dee.
That's Exactly what I was thinking when watching this ! :)
USE copper and solder it.
Post it.
It is the best solution when alcohol is involved, as alcohol attacks epoxy glues and degrades them.
Well, I told people in the comment section here when they talked about soldering the copper to the steel lid, it was impossible. And it is. But replacing the lid with copper sheeting is perfect! Great idea! That’s how I’m making mine. Thanks.
One of the best instructional, to the point videos I have seen.
Iridium 242
Dear are many good videos on how to make this stove. What makes your tutorial special is your fine personality, and giving the viewer confidence that he or she can make this stove, and they don"t have to be perfect with the details. If you are not a professional teacher, then i believe you would be an excellent mentor!! Thank you for a job well done.
Bruce the swimmer New Rochelle N.Y.
Thanks, no I have never been a teacher, but I do enjoy teaching things! Thanks for watching
My first camping stove was a cheap POS based on this principle. It was made of some kind of brass-like metal, had detachable L-shaped pot supports like upside-down legs, and was designed for white gas. Gave it a brief test and it seemed OK. First trip out, it developed a case of thermal runaway, shooting 8-inch green (copper) flames out either side of the coil, right past my little camp pan. I thought it was going to kill us or burn the park down. Scary experience shutting it down too. Never used it again.
This is really cool because you can use this as a standard alcohol burner for chemistry type experiments or even micro-biological work. Moreover, if you pre-cut the wick to the length of the copper tubing, and then run it through the tube before making your bends; it will eliminate some of your final steps in the production process. One of the other things that I like about this burner is that not only does it give off a good amount of heat but the flame is not as bright as an ordinary flame from a candle and therefore it gives you a tactical advantage when light discipline is important. Overall, it is a very useful tool. :-)
Problem if you put the wick in first, it makes it harder to put the sand in and clear out...
Guy your gonna burn your wick then . That heated area is where the vaporized fuel is pressurized
Filling the evaporation coil with solid fuel gives you a yellow flame because you are burning cotton, with an accelerant. Only worse light discipline than that is acetylene.
Just knock it off. If you cosplay as gi joe when shtf all that happens is the real Boogeyman knows which house the guns are in.
Lol, light discipline. I can see the end of your cigarette glowing in the woods and illuminating trees for a quarter mile. Longer if the leaves are down.
@@Altrag_ Cool your jets buckaroo. I can spot a cigarette too. Sometimes, my comments aren't only to get the author to think but rather, the directed audience. As for being a soldier, I was probably a soldier long before you were born (before video game armchair warriors). Next time, try to be a little more gracious with the comments and more understanding with whom you are speaking.
@@rogerstillwell7176 Roger your idea is still very bunk ...your not saving steps your ruining the burner and then also burning the snot outta your wick
Sand tip is great, I would say drill it out while still in the vice it would make it easier, if you use copper fridge pipe you would get a thicker wall and it measures at 3/8 Imperial or 9mm Metric
Great video
This is the same type of stove I used in a boyscouts 4 week adventure. It was a Philmont type of summer camp. We rode horses but we backpacked everywhere. They resupply the meals every week.
Haven't seen these stoves since. Mine was probably from the 50s when I was using it in the 80s. It was copper and brass.
Brilliant idea!
I actually suffer from mental health problems and you have got me all excited to try this project!
So glad I happened upon your channel.
As a big thank you I subscribed, too!!
Thank you for making me feel good, I haven't felt too good in quite a while!! ☺️🤗❤️👍🔥
Awesome, if you have any questions feel free to ask!
THANK YOU SO MUCH for a neat little video!!! It was presented well and made it look easy, especially for beginner DYI enthusiasts. Only basic tools required.
Something I've found to help, (I keep on on my hobby-bench), take an old ball-point pen apart and save the bottom section. Straighten out a Large paperclip and, with needle-nose pliers, bend a small loop in one end, tiny enough to easily go down inside the ink-pen barrell, and lightly, flatten the tip, on the other end. Mix up some five minute JB weld and, with a popsicle stick, fill the ink-pen barrell up. Then insert the straightened out. Paper-clip. Use the old ink-pen refill, to push it out the other end till at least
1 1/2" is out there, and clean JB weld off the wire. Put the glue back in the barrell, that got shoved out when the refill came back out and screw the clip end back on with a little JB weld on it too...and forget it over night. (since it's inside, sometimes it takes longer to harden well.) This will be about the right size to do little tight pushing and probing hobby operations. It will also aid in installing your wick. ((A quick version would be to just open a large paperclip, almost up, and use the bent part for a handle, and lightly flatten the tip. Not as comfortable, but will still work). THANKS AGAIN. One quick question...is that RUBBING ALCOHOL you're using or ETHYL ALCOHOL. (You went by the camera too fast with the bottle label, for me to see the type of fuel.) I GOT TO BUILD ME ONE OF THESE.
If you don't have sand you could put water in the tube and freeze it. This is used for bending brass instrument tubing.
You can also use compression fittings on the copper pipe instead of messing around with JB Weld.
You do a super job explaining everything. About the wick, one thing that might work is to first measure a piece of thin wire to the same size as the coil. Take the piece that goes to the right coil, connect it to the wire you just measured, connect the other end to the other wick that will go on the other side of the coil, thread it thru the copper tube BEFORE making the coil. Have both wicks out of each end as you described THEN fill the tube with the sand, cap each end over the wick, and make the coil. The wire will stay in the pipe with the wicks attached from each end as you so eloquently described how to do. Might work.
so how to get sand off wick?
That wouldn't work as well for bending the tubing. A wick compresses a lot more than sand does and would more easily produce kinks during bending. Since the wick is only needed in the legs, insert them after you make the coil. A short length of wire, like from a leftover piece of hose wiring, or a kitchen skewer would easily help shove the wick up the leg, especially if you double the wick over the end.
Is there anything you can add to the alcohol to make flame more visible? Just to not guess if there is a flame there sometimes?
Thanks for sharing. I’m going to try with a wider jar and three aligned copper coils just enough to carry a pot. I want to use it as a mini stove. Wish you the Best! A lot of Blessings.
This is a very good idea of getting the fuel to the heated coil through a wick rather with the compressed air as we used to do with the old Primus! Rather than drilling the two holes with an exact drill, it would provide more support to the coil if one uses a smaller drill then with a tapered wooden screw, push the taper slowly in the hole till the extra material is burred/ bent over till the diameter is correct. The extra material left bent over in the hole will give better vertical support to the coil. If the coil is soldered or glued in there would be a better joint.
Thinking about stocking up on emergency food? Well it doesn't have to be gross or nasty, it CAN be healthy so check out freeze dry wholesaler and see what they have, everything freeze dried from filet mignon to cheese cake, check out here and save 15% for using my link! No codes, just click the link! freezedrywholesalers.com/discount/iridium242
These guys are awesome. They bring an entire new meaning to freeze dried food!!
Nice effort. Please describe the material used for burning (in the bottle)?
I fill the tubing with water and freeze it then wrap it around something .
You can also use a strand from a cotton mop, they will stand up to the heat. Just don't use a synthetic mop strand as they melt and plug the tube.
Duuuude ..
The *Sand/dirt packed thru the copper-line to prevent pinching or kinking.. 😯 Idk if it's a new idea/ your original idea, or perhaps I'm just late to the party on that one, but...
GENIUS. 👀🧠💥👌 👏 🤯
GENIUS.
Awesome device ! I’m for sure going to make one ! You could set it inside a # 10 can or metal coffee can to give you something to set a pan or pot on. It would need to be open on both ends and have air holes in the side! A step drill works extremely well on thin metal ! It won’t grab like a regular drill bit !
Very clever... good to have in a time of no electricity, or camping or cooking indoors... Thank you for the great insights...
Great design! 👍🏻😄 If you leave the metal pipe in the middle of your copper twist when you pinch it in the vice it'll come out more evenly. Para cord probably wouldn't work very well because it's made out of synthetic materials, you need something cotton, but you can buy round kerosene wicks at different thicknesses, I'm sure one would probably fit in there I have a really small kerosene lantern that has a round wick which looks to be about that exact same size as your copper tubing. The thing you said about the JB Weld being able to take extreme heat is accurate, I'm not sure exactly what the heat rating is but I used one to fix a part in my engine which was cracked and it's never come open.
Oh yeah I forgot to say if you put a piece of hardwood behind the lid when you're drilling it it won't pucker out as much and it will be easier to clean up. Thanks for the video.
Matthias Southwick
Joel Araneta
allthings possible
(random name)
Thanks for your great video I will try it I have already a copper tube
JBW is good cars and engines get hot. I once repaired an oven and it was great. I used it 3 years before i moved from that apartment. Going strong when i left.
if you want to make larger ones, take a string tie it to the end of the wick. use a small keyboard vacuum and vacuum out one side. The string will feed through and you can pull the wick to the right position! it would be cool to see a double or triple loop... Great concept!!! thank you plan on making a few myself
Yes, old electrician trick... Use a vacuum.
I saw another video like this but the jar was much larger, wick much longer and was built and used to heat greenhouses.
Wondering how warm an area it can heat and how long.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
I have a 5ft x 5ft x 6 ft deer stand that is insulated and one of of these made out of a pint jar heats it just fine. On a mid 40s day it easily gets it to mid 70s inside the stand.
@@user-neo71665 Neo, how much fuel does it consume over say, 4 hours. Thank you in advance.
@@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN
.
@@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN .
Thank you.
Cap fuel jar with intact lid to save fuel.
Put stove cap on another jar for storage.
Soda bottle cap priming tool with cotton ball wick is cleaver suggestion.
Burn test results?
Boiling time?
(2 cups @ 212°F)
Burn time?
Stove holder?
Wind break?
Why does burner have the loop???
Brilliant concept with simple design.
We really like it.
For sale???
I use fine grain salt when I bend small thin copper pipes because to be sure that I get everything out I just put it in water and let the salt disolve.
How long will this burn. Can I make it ou of a larger wider jar. Thankz
You can also use frozen water in the tube also instead of sand.
Im going to make one tonight and I will measure the btu's and add that info to my comments in case anyone is interested. Thinking about making one with several flame heads on a larger jar as well. Great vid!
Thanks, should be interesting to see, I have not done much with it other than make it easier to prime (no blowtorch) and clean it up some.
Could you safely burn this while sleeping in a ice shack?
It`s been two weeks so where is it?
Rezult?
.
I would suggest cutting a 12" × 12" piece of plywood and glue it to the bottom of the jar. To prevent knocking it over!😮
Plus building a metal frame over it for cooking.
Tip: you could also put the jar in a bucket of sand with a band of copper. With both end in deep into the sand to heat the sand up as a long running heater. Plus, you could also have a frame over top for cooking or you could sit a terracotta pot over top of that as a heat storage space heater to.
Just like for the 72 hour candles.❤
I enjoyed your video. It's like going to a friends house to see what he is up to and coming away with plans to copy what he made. Well done.
I personally would love to just go into Home Depot or Lowe's and have a copper wire already cut and designed for me. This way if I do not want the extra material, it keeps it quick and simple for several different types of projects. Cool idea.
Similar alcohol burners had been produced commercially in Japan for school laboratory use and for mountaineering. I prefered to use my alcohol burner with three loops for mountaineering over gas/gasoline/paraffin oil burners because of reliability. Later imported Trangia burner expelled them from the market.
Excellent design and 2 which I have made both work great . Added a small amount of fiberglass house insulation inside the jar which helps to keep the fuel from "sloshing" around . Thank you once again Iridium 242 and have an excellent New Year !
That sand trick is beautiful, simple and cheap.
Cool. If you don't have, can't find, or don't want to buy wicks, you can use cotton balls. Just unroll one and twist it into a fine thread. When it pulls the fuel up into the tube, it will expand to completely fill the tube.
That is the best explanation and video of any project I've ever seen. Simple straight forward, well edited, this guy has loads a brains and common sense
I am really excited to make some of these, using your techniques, as well as some suggested by viewers.
When I saw the project you made, I realized that it could be put inside a metal coffee can or a #10 tomato juice can with several holes drilled in the bottom of the larger can, and a piece of metal screening on the top of it, to make it into a stove capable of warming up coffee or a can ofsoup... even cooking breakfast
Yeah a few weeks or days after I did this vid, I did another in my "hobo stove" which is a coffee can, it worked great!
ruclips.net/video/_W3x97M7qSI/видео.html
WOW thank you for this video, I WILL be making quite a few of these for my family and friends who share prepping ideas with me., again thank you!
This i know us going to sound mean, but i dont mean for it to. Man you made something wonderful, people can use in case of a 911 or any time. YOU GOT THE IDEA, AND SHARED, no one else knew thats why we all watched. Did any one noticed how every other person told him what he should have done or how to fix it better. GUY, I do think you did a great job, and thanks for the share.
You don't need glue. Just solder it with tin-lead solder. This is easy to do, just stick the coil into the cap in place and heat it up on a gas stove or burner, adding solder to the place to be soldered.
Great job on the small portable stove! Will be nice to take along ice fishing during the winter!
Wonderful way showing it. I can see why is very efficiansy, your fumes are sealed and no place to escape accept just the hole that's burning . Well done...
It works! Nice tall pencil flame on mine. I soldered the copper to the lid though, nice and strong. Good fun little project...thanks!
Follow up: Single flame in the middle does not waste any heat with my kettle, No wasted flames up the side of the kettle just a nice little spread in the center when used as a burner in my Ohuhu gasifier stove which acts as a windbreak. Not very quick but efficient enough....set and forget for a cup at a time!
Phones are learning your patterns they’re becoming you and reading your mind. I saw this video 6 years ago when it was first posted. I don’t watch this kind of stuff it’s not a typical suggestion for me. Earlier today I thought about the this video and the little copper coil. And just now, after 6 years, the same day It randomly popped into my head, it shows up on RUclips again. I don’t believe it
I have noticed that happens every so often it is bewildering
yeah they unironically read our minds
Take a second lid. Remove the inner seal. Glue/seal it onto the top of the lid of the copper coil. When you're done with your burn, use another mason jar to screw onto the top. You wont burn yourself and you wont waste alcohol through evaporation.
would that work? would the flame not go out?
The point is that the flame will go out; it will also prevent the alcohol from evaporating. Instead of escaping trough the little hole, it has nowhere to go.
You might be able to do so, however the added benefit of the second jar is that it protects the coil, and more importantly, the connections with the lid. This would make the thing as sturdy as the glass jars, which would be great for transport. Also, there would be no need to wait for it to cool.
You could also solder a thimble to the extra lid and make a little pre-heater cup.
Well said
Try regular 9-hour J-B Weld it's more high heat resistance being that copper is a conductor of temperature, I remember I had a 67 Mustang with a cracked exhaust manifold couldn't afford to get it fixed but 9 our JB will would last for almost a month
So simple, but it's brilliant. Efficient, small and useful. Great share.!
Even though 7yrs old AV... Still good to see beautiful engineering.. Thanks.
Great ide and good execution of build. One piece of advice for future builds though. Take an inner strand from paracord and blow it through the bent tubing and tie one end to a length of wic that is 1" lonher than the tube and pull the wic through. The full length wic will cut down priming if youre on a pinch.
Im making this.
Killer little heating/ cooking unit made from practically nothing.
Thank you!!
Jb weld is awesome......we fixed broken drive shaft on m113 personel carrier with vicegrips and jb weld
BS.
That sounds impressive. Good one for mythbusters.? 💡
It's a nice project. I like it! But, I'll use 1/4" tubing bender and a tube cutter to make it easier you don't need to fill up the tube with sand. Thank you for sharing.
Có ai biết chất cháy bằng cồn hay la chất Gì
Well, it’s been a year Jakk L. Have you figured out that you can’t make a tight enough loop with a tubing bender yet? I didn’t even have to try it to know that. But yeah, the sand isn’t necessary and a bitch to get out of the coil.
Nice instructional video. I made one by filing the copper tube with water and freezing it. It also bends nice
I just made one following your instructions and it turned out fantastic mine burns almost like a jet engine thanks for the sand tip
... how long was the burn time ?... gonna make one for winter Michigan camping
What size copper pipe di you use?
Hi thank you for this video it’s great :) do you happen to have any information on the burn time?
Interesting project. This looks like the same principle that's used in Coleman white gas (naptha) camp stoves & lanterns, and also in some lanterns and heaters from Europe that burn kerosene. With kerosene fuel, it would be necessary to have some sort of small primer cup (a bottle cap would do) under the coil. Alcohol is put in the pre-heat/priming cup, and burns for about 3 minutes. By that time, the Kerosene has wicked up into the copper tube, is vaporizing, and comes out of the burner orifice, making a very strong, hot flame. Some experimenting would be needed - I suspect that the burner jet hole in the coil might have to be slightly larger. However, The design principle is exactly the same as my 1958 Optimus kerosene lantern (made in Sweden), and also in a tent heater made by Tilley (a British company) in the 1950's and 60's. There are other brands as well - the most well known is probably Primus. I have a tiny little Primus stove bought by my dad about 1960, and it is a very efficient (and compact) unit. I have a Coleman Peak 1 "compact" white gas stove - it's about 1-1/2 times the size of the old Primus, has to be pumped up, and also gives off less heat. So, it would be interesting to see if this design would work with Kerosene. I think a "snuffer" made from the bottom 2/3 of a soda can might be a good accessory for your alcohol stove. Just drop it over the burner coil and the stove would go out. Thanks for posting this.
Naptha and white gas are two very different things...
Saw one of these in an antique mall with a sign saying "What is it?!! $3.00" No one knew. Thank you!!!!!
Fibreglass insulation also works as a wick
Sand when bending tubes! I learned something new!
QUESTION: Can a larger diameter, taller jar be used to increase burn time? If so, should the copper tubes go down further into the jar? (I know the wicks will be harder to get up to the bend.)
SUGGESTION: To those worried about the JB Weld, I believe they make a HIGH TEMPERATURE JB Weld product.
sorry that is not possible
The jar is just to store the fuel. The wick stuffed up the legs of the coil (and the outlet hole) keep the vapor pressure from driving the fuel back into the jar. Use whatever size container you like. The point of sealing the jar lid around the legs of the coil is to prevent fuel fumes from escaping and igniting somewhere you don't want to burn.
Try denatured alcohol. I does not leave behind soot. :) Awesome burners btw!
Great job, and nice instructions! One suggestion -- I think you could cut your priming time down if you ran the wick all the way through. One way to do that is to a properly-sized round wick, especially a fiberglass one. If you can't find a wick that moves smoothly through, you could run a cable or wire leader and attach that to whatever wick you're using that so you can pull it through. With a wick that goes all the way through, the alcohol will be wicked right up to the hole and will prime much more quickly. You might even be able to get it to run on kerosene!
One other thing you might try is to put fiberglass batting in the jar to hold the fuel and prevent sloshing.
John Mury I was thinking along similar lines.
I think getting full wick thru tube is more important than a pretty twist. You can prevent kinks by using wider wrap to start then twisting entire loop set alone.
IF you run the wick all the way the burn time will be lower as you will be burning LIQUID, BUT by shortening the wicks, you will be burning GAS, at a longer rate of time,
@@SCUBADUDESMITTY Right. The point of the burner is to vaporize the fuel by heating in the upper coil so it's a gas before it gets to the hole.
When I mix jb weld or any other 2 part epoxy I put both parts in the corner of a sandwich bag and squeeze out the air. Next, twist the bag to keep the two parts in the corner and begin kneading until the epoxy becomes homogenous. Now you can snip the corner of the bag and squeeze out your epoxy like icing on a cake. This method keeps the epoxy off of you and makes for minimal cleanup. Also, you can check to see if the epoxy left in the bag has hardened w/o disturbing your project. Great video by the way, thanks!
Nice build, thank you. I notice that you have a tall yellow flame indicative of incomplete combustion; you would probably get a cleaner burn (blue flame) with a smaller hole on the tube.
great idea I have three in a triangle and rest my pan on top! ps I soldered mine.
I love this little stove. It looks like a great way to do some covert cooking in a SHTF situation!
This is perfect for hunting or fishing, instead of packing the stove around, or building a bigger fire. Coffee, finger warmer and whatnot.
bring your blow torch lolol
You can boil a litre of water in a few minutes with a handful of tinder and a fire that Never is bigger than 4” around. I like this stove but For hiking ultralight it’s kinda bulky and heavy, and glass, well I would rather find a way to make it from tin or aluminium and make it compactable. The principle is good as is the result and it would be worth experimenting with ways to make it better. I imagine that it would be more efficient than the open burner alcohol stoves.
They’ve used to use JBk weld to put cracked heads back together, on flathead engines. I wouldn’t ty it on Overheqd Valve engines because there are too many weather jackets and passages in those, but when repairing cracks in the ports of OHV heads the machine shop I worked for used thread weld plugs. In that method you ground the area to be repaired clean with a Drexel or air tool with a stone type polishing bit. Then you start on the outside of the crack on both ends and drill and tap the holes, screw in the cold weld plugs and lubricate or coat the threads of the plugs with JB weld as you go. Work you ways in from the outside of the crack and then grind the area smooth after breaking off the top of the plugs. When your done you’ve got a crack repair that will never fail. J B Weld is the stuff!
I've found that mixing jb Weld on plastic works better than on cardboard. As the resins in the mix doesn't soak in to the absorbent cardboard
"The important thing is getting a good seal." - every Netsilik Eskimo father to his son.
bawhahahaha!!! You very funny!!!
Said the walrus to his son.
Also Netflix father's to their sons.
Aahh ha-haa-haah! Right you are fine sir. Thank you kindly for the advice and for the laughter it produced. I hope you have a good day and may God bless you & your loved ones! PEACE from NC.
This is amazing! Do you think in hindsight you could make one larger so it could hold more alcohol so it will burn longer ( say a jam jar) wondering if anyone has done a bigger one than this? Regards
There's other videos to make this burner that use larger jars.
Awesome video! I guess you could use a larger jar but you don't for safety reasons? Also what is the run time?
This looks like the perfect solution to the danger of the flower pot heater.
This is my next DIY project for the weekend! Thanks for sharing this!👍