tubular track you just spread the under side of the rail with a flat head screwdriver by a small twist and stick the wire into it and remove the driver with wire in the crack, then you solider, most of the time I dont solider it it holds in pretty good
And maybe in a future video you could tell us what swear words are most useful when burning your fingers with the soldering gun. I always wondered how to use flux. I'm in the process of restoring a ZW transformer bought for a song at a thrift store. The 1949 cord needs replacing.
I read you want to use a toothpick to apply it since too much can cause problems. Disclaimer: I am not an expert, maybe someone is can confirm or deny this.
Very helpful, thanks. I may have screwed up. I soldered my wires but the solder is up against one of the three bands that keeps the rails together. Does that create a short circuit?
Rosin core solder will not work in this application. The track metal dissipates heat quickly and the rosin contained in the solder will evaporate before it can transfer heat to the track. Use acid free solder, commonly available.
That's the worst solder job I've seen since Junior High. Those joints will pick off with a screwdriver. Never use acid flux on this kind of work, it will continue to corrode.
Wait, they teach soldering in Junior high?? Not in my district. Most shop classes have been dumbed down here. Anyway, the joint is rock solid. I have used this solder and flux technique on my layouts for over 30 years and never had a joint failure. You may have a point about the acid flux. These days one should look for acid free.
Do not use acid flux as used for plumbing. It will corrode the electrical connection. Use rosin core solder, 60/40 to solder copper wire to the track.
Weller is a very well built soldering gun
I have the exact same soldering gun, passed down from my Grandfather, nice video!. Building a layout in the attic for my grandsons now.
Many thanks very illustrative and easy to understand
Perfect video thank you.
tubular track you just spread the under side of the rail with a flat head screwdriver by a small twist and stick the wire into it and remove the driver with wire in the crack, then you solider, most of the time I dont solider it it holds in pretty good
And maybe in a future video you could tell us what swear words are most useful when burning your fingers with the soldering gun.
I always wondered how to use flux. I'm in the process of restoring a ZW transformer bought for a song at a thrift store. The 1949 cord needs replacing.
I read you want to use a toothpick to apply it since too much can cause problems.
Disclaimer: I am not an expert, maybe someone is can confirm or deny this.
Very helpful, thanks. I may have screwed up. I soldered my wires but the solder is up against one of the three bands that keeps the rails together. Does that create a short circuit?
David A. Molloy lt does if its the center rail. Outer rail doues not mattet.
ok, thanks.
Hey, Doc! What about the flux capacitor? Nice upgrade, thanks!
Chief Doug USAF Retired
boy is this going turn green and rust. use electronic grade rosin core solder
Rosin core solder will not work in this application. The track metal dissipates heat quickly and the rosin contained in the solder will evaporate before it can transfer heat to the track. Use acid free solder, commonly available.
@@areizman It won't rust if you use a glue gun and cover the solder joint with glue.
That's the worst solder job I've seen since Junior High. Those joints will pick off with a screwdriver. Never use acid flux on this kind of work, it will continue to corrode.
Wait, they teach soldering in Junior high?? Not in my district. Most shop classes have been dumbed down here. Anyway, the joint is rock solid. I have used this solder and flux technique on my layouts for over 30 years and never had a joint failure. You may have a point about the acid flux. These days one should look for acid free.