I am 1 min into this vid after watching HOURSSSS of vids tryna figure this out! You have CLEARLY explained it like a pro! thank you thank you! This vid should go to the top of the list! subbed.
Thanks so much for the postive comment, and I am extremely happy this helped you out. It's my goal to make clear easy instructions on my videos to help as many people as possible.
Thanks for the tip on the music. I hate trying to find music to go with the video. I'll start using less music which will help me get these videos out faster.
What are the greenish tubes running down both sides? Are those air bags? If so, can they be removed without the van showing errors? Also...a question about the seats you removed: are the seatbelts anchored only to the seats themselves without any need to attach to walls as in traditional seat beats (ie. shoulder belt)? Can the rerouted AC be run from "shore power" at an RV park without engine on? I love your AC redo idea.
The greenish tubes are the airbags. They can be removed ,and you can use airbag resistor simulators to avoid getting an error code. The seats that were removed had shoulder seatbelts anchored to them. They are not attached to the walls. I don't know if it could be run from shore power. My guess is no because the van runs off a 12 volt battery and shore power is 120 volts to 240 volts. But I could be wrong. Check out www.fordtransitusaforum.com This site for Ford Transit owners has great info and very helpful members that can guide you in the right direction on that.
Are you kidding me? It is this easy? Is this like some electrical secret that no one wants to talk about? Does every DIY and Pro van builder purposefully make this process so difficult when it can be done like this?!?!?!
Why does everyone use puck lights I see LED light s about 5” long won’t they be brighter plus u would only drill a 1/4 inch hole to run wire and. Screw them on I doubt they use more power
I sure like the idea of using zip ties instead of running all through the holes in the van and then rubbing and later causing a short.
Exactly! Way better to take the time and effort now to prevent it from shorting out, before installing everything else.
Two markers at once! I am already impressed
Thanks for watching!
Finally someone actually explains how to do this. Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching!
Amen
I am 1 min into this vid after watching HOURSSSS of vids tryna figure this out! You have CLEARLY explained it like a pro! thank you thank you! This vid should go to the top of the list! subbed.
Thanks so much for the postive comment, and I am extremely happy this helped you out. It's my goal to make clear easy instructions on my videos to help as many people as possible.
Yes it should !! Best video some just make everything easy to understand
Best video thanks so much. Where was this video all the time I wasted on no good video
Me too! Haha
Very informative. Thanks a lot from Southampton UK.
@2Truth2you you’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great job and good information! Just wish you got longer footage for me to appreciate the finished look😎
BTW good videos do not need music--it actually muddles the knowledge you are giving us.
Thanks for the tip on the music. I hate trying to find music to go with the video. I'll start using less music which will help me get these videos out faster.
@@ChilliesWorld win win! :)
I didn’t even notice there was music 😅
@@Sr_iRL Some do some don't. I have no time for it. It's not supposed to be a Hollywood production and adds less than it takes away.
What are the greenish tubes running down both sides? Are those air bags? If so, can they be removed without the van showing errors? Also...a question about the seats you removed: are the seatbelts anchored only to the seats themselves without any need to attach to walls as in traditional seat beats (ie. shoulder belt)? Can the rerouted AC be run from "shore power" at an RV park without engine on? I love your AC redo idea.
The greenish tubes are the airbags. They can be removed ,and you can use airbag resistor simulators to avoid getting an error code.
The seats that were removed had shoulder seatbelts anchored to them. They are not attached to the walls.
I don't know if it could be run from shore power. My guess is no because the van runs off a 12 volt battery and shore power is 120 volts to 240 volts. But I could be wrong.
Check out www.fordtransitusaforum.com This site for Ford Transit owners has great info and very helpful members that can guide you in the right direction on that.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
I have one question; could you use the van metal frame/body as a ground to use only one wire (positive wire) and thus running less wire?
Yes but in lots of cases you won’t have access to chassis when you’re at this stage of the build
Is this still something good to do for your led lights?
It's been over 2 years and still no problems with my LED lights
I bought this same dimmer switch, how did you wire it?
Run the 12 volt wire from your fuse box into the dimmer switch. Then from the dimmer to all of your lights.
Dude its really you and your pops running them lights…. Can you use a Google Assitant to trigger scenes or dimming levels by voice 🗣️
I haven't looked into doing that, but I don't see why you couldn't add it
Are you kidding me? It is this easy? Is this like some electrical secret that no one wants to talk about? Does every DIY and Pro van builder purposefully make this process so difficult when it can be done like this?!?!?!
no, wire taps are garbage and should never be used in any circumstance.
Why does everyone use puck lights I see LED light s about 5” long won’t they be brighter plus u would only drill a 1/4 inch hole to run wire and. Screw them on I doubt they use more power
I used the pucks because they were small, dimmable, and bright.
T connectors are Bad Bad Bad. Unless you love solving transient electrical problems in your wiring.
Can you suggest an alternative?
Thanks
@@theangrygingerthebananavan4207I would cut and crimp with a butt connector, preferably one with heat shrink