Plastic welder would have worked better if he knew how to use it (idk why it put it here?) Anyway you got go until it's under the plastic and then turn it slightly
I would've loved to know what actually seems to work best instead of seeing just broken intentionally, if the intent is to break the damn thing it's gonna break but if the intent was to stress test it to see which can hold up the best when under a certain amount of force
@@thecodeking91 only pull the trigger for a moment, enough to get a couple layers in. Don't make it red hot. Also align the Staples lengthwise down the seam, not across.
@wolf v it's actually not that hard and it's much stronger than superglue or a 3D pen I have a wide head for my soldering iron that I use specifically for joining 3D printed parts I basically push it into the model perpendicular to the seam so it ends up looking kinda like stitches only recessed and then I'll just use the soldering iron to reshape it and fill in any voids (which usually isn't necessary if I reshape it right) and while the end result isn't perfect I always sand my models before priming anyway so it's barely any extra work but I end up getting a much better/stronger result
I don't know much about 3d printing but how about having the 3d printed object made with connectors(like hooks or sockets). Would that work or just not the best practice?
@@mrpineapple3942 he had simple pieces in the vid. Odd many things you could use a CAD to combine them. Larger pieces shouldn’t be snapped apart aggressively in most cases
As someone who welds plastic as a job, cut the edges a bit of where you wanna weld them then i do recommend using similar tool he had in this video which was the melting tip so you just gently bind them together, and then for the finale have a heater gun and have the same plastic wire as the material you are welding, one hand slowly pushes the wire down while your other hand uses the heat gun to melt it down. Then when it cools off you cas use simple hand tools to clean it up and make it flat, even a simple metal sheet can do the trick just shaving off the top of the weld till you reach the flat surface, just let it fully cool of before doing this step.
@@TaMiCGarGit there are multiple materials and i do recommend checking what tempature each one requires, we use special tool which uses air from compressors and heats up the air to around 350 celsius and can do even more, it can also exchange the nozzles so you can have the melting tip or a tight air nozzle to blow at the wire, though there are rarely some plastics that require a special breathing tools so i do recommend checking that in case.
@@Supportik My concern was not healthwise but more due to the fact that PLA does not stand heat without heavy deformation. A soldering iron is more controles and precise
I feel like there was a tape at the back of the plastic at the plastic welder part when he's snapping the plastic in half. can you see a little blue piece there or am I tripping
@@TheNamesArif holy shit i think you're right, i thought it was the blue in the middle you can see when he glues them but it doesn't break the same as the other stuff and the blue seems to hold together
@@natalyst It's not tape, it's a dado joint basically. You make a hole in each plastic part and stick something that fits halfway in each so when it comes together, it's a strong joint. This guy is just snapping them in half with quite a bit of strength for this material lol.
I looked back, both broke (still really impressive). I think all of the methods are valid as long as you aren't aggressively trying to rip them into pieces
This is what is called a butt joint (If I remember it correctly). It is the weakest possible connection between two pieces, since just about anything you use to connect them, you can pull them apart with minimal effort. You need two pieces that will fit together like a puzzle piece. After welding or nailing, it's neigh impossible to separate them without breaking them.
The thing is plastic welders do work. It’s just that you did just put holes in them making them weaker. You need like to mold the plastic together like the hot. Tip down the line and mold it together, not just put holes in it.
@@nothere3982 Super Glue isn't some cheap glue that doesn't work. It is an cyanoacrylate adhesive which has an extremely strong bond. Sanding the edges of two plastic parts gives the glue much more surface to grip onto and bond the pieces together. Doing it the way he did in the video will never work and gives a false impression of the method being used.
@@nothere3982 This is a radical reaction if you're interested. It's part of organic chemistry where you have two different kind of radicals which form copolymers
@@Foxborne wrap it in tarp and make sure there is a opening at the bottom after that rip the legs off and close tarp flip over and cut opening on opposite side start with the head and then the arms and boom you have dinner
For ABS parts you can use a little bit of acetone. It dissolves the plastic into it, then when it evaporates you're left with one solid piece of plastic
I use filament and a sodering iron and use it as a “gas stick welding at home” It works like normal stick welding, but now with plastic filament instead of copper rod
"Aw gee, how can I possibly keep anything properly connected together when I have this powerful urge to break everything I own like a fucking animal? :( "
Plastic welders have strength in one direction (pulling) even on a car the recommend welding the seams apart for strength in all directions. So both would be a viable option. But I normally glue middle then weld seams glue is for deep mechanical bond and then you have permanent bond on the edges. Because on larger pieces welding seams doesn’t penetrate all the way so super glue solves that.
Generally speaking there are 3 physical ways of joining any part. 1. Form fit --> dove tails, snap fits, bow ties, typical wood joints, etc. 2. Friction or force bond --> screws, wedges, magnets, etc. 3. adhesive bond --> all types of glues, welds, soldering and melting It is best to combine them for example use a dove tail design to create a from fit for a strong connection and additionally use glue if the connection has to stay that way or wedges if you want to disassemble it some time later. Try to avoid using only one connection type and always remember the 3 connection types.
Solvent welding. Melts the edge of the plastics through a chemical reaction so they become 1 physical piece. Makes it as difficult to break as any other part of the project
That just smoothens out the roughness, is it possible to use it to weld? I mean you talking about ABS in alcohol vapors right? that'd only melt superficially to create a glossy surface
@@vinayakonimani7628 no, I'm referring to something along the lines of Plastic Welder like Micro Mark or the Citadel glue, where it uses a specific solvent or solvent blend with no dissolved polymer to create a joint between two thermoplastic parts. Essentially causing a chemical reaction to melt the surface of the parts and then melding them into one solid piece.
I use superglue or machine screws, but if I use glue, I'll usually try to design the parts to have a friction fit when they're put together. That way, the glue is just helping make sure the parts don't wiggle loose over time.
i use the actual filament reel and as solder and a soldering iron. Also some designed in pegs that slot together helps the glue bind better along with some sanding. Sanding helps glue a LOT
At a convention I went to, a company was advertising a solution that can melt different 3D printed parts together, and it's applied like glue. That way the plastic is connected like it was printed that way.
@@mcavity i've used it and it is pretty strong. It actually surprised me how strong the bond was. i've used wood glue in the past and wanted to try something else. Then i stumbled onto 3D Gloop and was a little skeptical at first, but it was pretty good !
3d gloop. It's extremely strong and I've seen plastic on other sections of prints break before the glued section does. They make 3 specialized versions, one for pla, one for petg or other pet like materials, and one for abs
@@NECRODOOMFX I've never had trouble using it on any shaped parts. I work on a lot of cosplay stuff as a business and gloop has always been what I've used. Once I started, I never went back to regular super glue
Use sandpaper on both side of the 3D printed items then use super glue. Increasing surface area means more glue could hold on. Sometimes i use few piece of shredded cotton ball on the side then super glue and sandpaper to smooth.
I would imagine depending on the plastic that model glue would work well. Certain types melt and fuze the plastic. At that point you will just break it instead of breaking the seam
Melt the first parts inside using a heat gun, this makes the inside gooey, then do the same on the other part and slowly stick them together, which makes simultaneous fusion.
I usually solvent weld them. as I'm mostly printing ABS I simply brush acetone on the surfaces, let it soak for a like 30 seconds and then press them together. for PLA You can use Tetrahydrofuran in the same way. Acetone kinda works for PLA, but THF is a lot better.
@@LeoInterVir to be honest, I haven't tried PVC cement because it is a solvent for PVC plastic that literally welds the pieces together. I've used it as "glue" for other plastics before and it works ok, but can easily break free with a little force. I haven't tried it, but if you want a result like PVC glue on PVC (IE. A weld), you would want a solvent called dichloromethane (DCM). That should be stronger and less messy than JB Weld but harder to get your hands on and probably more expensive.
Side note: While doing a little search for available products, it turns out DCM is pretty bad for your health. If you or anybody reading this decide to go that route, you should wear proper protective gear and only use it in a well ventilated area. I am going to stick with JB Weld.
He also printed them so that they break eaily in that direction. I imagine that the superglue did bind the pieces together, but he broke one of the prints near the edge.
I've been trying to make a table for years, I keep getting the first leg on and then snapping it off. I just don't understand how to get past this step.
Filament pins, printed screw threads, hot glue, and super glue, and of course, whatever random cheap screw is on hand, if I'm attaching a print to wood. A lot of my recent work has been with my Go! Gridfinity portable boxes, I use filament for both hinge and latch.
I use a superglue with activator. After the parts have stuck together, the contact edge is "welded" together with a soldering iron - then any uneven areas are filled with filament. Then resin or putty (aluminium putty) is used to straighten everything - sanding is of course necessary.
Dichloromethane is great for most of the PLA and PETG plastics. If you cover both parts with it and press together for at least a few hours, it will basically weld it together.
first of all, you don’t let the staple get red hot, you press it against the plastic and slowly turn the welder on and off, till it’s melted to the desired depth, and also you put the staples 90 degrees the wrong way for best rigidity. then you trim the legs of the staple, melt the plastic over it while sometimes even combining it with some metal mesh. at least that’s how i was taught, and all the shit i’ve fixed hasn’t broke yet… with the exception of my snowmobile hood and windshield, but that’s cause i crashed it 😅
Honestly, I would go with plastic welder, its sturdy and will stay like that for a super long time, it can take many hits because it hard to break and is durable, its also not to hard to weld it, its super easy for it to weld. And you can also weld other broken plastic, (obviously lol) but thats most facts about it.
I like the melting technique. I just use my soldering iron and sink it deep between the seams to combine them. I then add additional plastic to the seam to fill the space.
Personally I use super glue and I have not been able to break it apart! I super glued a handle onto a fairly large shredder I made and it is under constant torque, not broken yet!
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Catch Me [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KxwEXXFQMTY/mqdefault.jpg)
More details and tests!
ruclips.net/video/f28CrAmsDfk/видео.html
Plastic welder would have worked better if he knew how to use it (idk why it put it here?) Anyway you got go until it's under the plastic and then turn it slightly
Ratio
Use FLEX TAPE bro...
Epidermix
Good men
I connect them with glue and just never aggressively snap them in half
Based
Lol
Yeah that works
Thank you! Basically every attempt worked! Snapping them apart aggressively will break anything lol
Lmao
I would've loved to know what actually seems to work best instead of seeing just broken intentionally, if the intent is to break the damn thing it's gonna break but if the intent was to stress test it to see which can hold up the best when under a certain amount of force
I think even whit this method you can see what is better
The plastic welder would’ve worked if he didn’t just use two stints and finished the welding process instead of just leaving it at the first step
3D printing glue works best. It's basically superglue specifically made for 3D printing materials such as PLA
Melting is the best
Saudering is the best for larder scale swords and props
"I'm going to do this the shittiest way I could imagine" "WHY DID IT BREAK?!"
😂😂
Lol
Exactly, this video is crap
I'm I the only one who saw the plastic welder and thought of jarhead
He never questioned any of the methods, pretty sure he was breaking them in half to show the effectivess of each method..
If you use the plastic welder PROPERLY, you'll never have an issue, it also helps to simply not snap your parts in half.
@@thecodeking91 only pull the trigger for a moment, enough to get a couple layers in. Don't make it red hot. Also align the Staples lengthwise down the seam, not across.
It also works if you use it on the person who's snapping your stuff's hands
@@bluerabbitboiunderrated
Exactly😂
The plastic “welder” is just to hold the parts together while you actually weld with high heat nitrogen plastic welder and filler rod.
@wolf v I just use a soldering iron and some extra filament
@wolf v it's actually not that hard and it's much stronger than superglue or a 3D pen I have a wide head for my soldering iron that I use specifically for joining 3D printed parts I basically push it into the model perpendicular to the seam so it ends up looking kinda like stitches only recessed and then I'll just use the soldering iron to reshape it and fill in any voids (which usually isn't necessary if I reshape it right) and while the end result isn't perfect I always sand my models before priming anyway so it's barely any extra work but I end up getting a much better/stronger result
I don't know much about 3d printing but how about having the 3d printed object made with connectors(like hooks or sockets). Would that work or just not the best practice?
@@slashhack1463 unlikely to get more strength than another method and adds more complexity if joins are supposed to be rigid and now they are not.
Knew there was a way and that this fool was just trying to get attention
"How to connect two 3d printed parts together?"
By not snapping it in half right where it's at the weakest.
Lmao i was trying to find this comment And i found it !
Only 1 comment?
@@mitchisindo 3 actually
@@just_a_dead_dude Wrong. 4
@@view2me no you weren’t
"How do you like to combine two 3d printed parts?"
*_In the design software, before actually printing them_*
You can’t always print a build in full, so you may have to slice it up in that software, so you can actually print it
Based
@@mrpineapple3942 he had simple pieces in the vid. Odd many things you could use a CAD to combine them. Larger pieces shouldn’t be snapped apart aggressively in most cases
@@knicks5426 yes, but he was demonstrating how to put pieces together, assuming you had to slice it in the design software because it was so big.
When im design something i always tryna put a hole that fit a popsicle stick inside for small one
As someone who welds plastic as a job, cut the edges a bit of where you wanna weld them then i do recommend using similar tool he had in this video which was the melting tip so you just gently bind them together, and then for the finale have a heater gun and have the same plastic wire as the material you are welding, one hand slowly pushes the wire down while your other hand uses the heat gun to melt it down. Then when it cools off you cas use simple hand tools to clean it up and make it flat, even a simple metal sheet can do the trick just shaving off the top of the weld till you reach the flat surface, just let it fully cool of before doing this step.
Now this is a quality answer
@@TaMiCGarGit there are multiple materials and i do recommend checking what tempature each one requires, we use special tool which uses air from compressors and heats up the air to around 350 celsius and can do even more, it can also exchange the nozzles so you can have the melting tip or a tight air nozzle to blow at the wire, though there are rarely some plastics that require a special breathing tools so i do recommend checking that in case.
heat gun is a NO NO with PLA ... a soldering iron however is ok.
@@fabioarrua Obviously masks are required to for some types of materials.
@@Supportik My concern was not healthwise but more due to the fact that PLA does not stand heat without heavy deformation. A soldering iron is more controles and precise
Screws of course, you missed that 😂
Haha indeed!
@@UncleJessy I’m planning on getting a 3d printer
I guess Jessy screwed up that one
@@shaolinkitsune4705 Quickly! Stop him before he bolts!
@@bob_1845 nice
Intresting how he seems to have focused on making it seem like the shit breaks no matter what. Never did anything on both sides.
He even made breaking points when he melted the plastic
I feel like there was a tape at the back of the plastic at the plastic welder part when he's snapping the plastic in half. can you see a little blue piece there or am I tripping
@@TheNamesArif holy shit i think you're right, i thought it was the blue in the middle you can see when he glues them but it doesn't break the same as the other stuff and the blue seems to hold together
@@natalyst It's not tape, it's a dado joint basically. You make a hole in each plastic part and stick something that fits halfway in each so when it comes together, it's a strong joint. This guy is just snapping them in half with quite a bit of strength for this material lol.
I'd like to mention that the pen works so well that the sheets broke, the seam didn't
I looked back, both broke (still really impressive). I think all of the methods are valid as long as you aren't aggressively trying to rip them into pieces
Yeah and the way he showed us how he used the pen is unrealistic. No one would ever just put random strings loose on there like that.
@@ytuser4562 right you would use it like hot glue and lay it down hot then smush it in-between the two pieces
Ahh yes, the classic “let’s incorrectly use every tool for clickbait.”
This is a genuine question for people starting out 3D printing
@@victorkelly7348 huh?
@@victorkelly7348 Yeah but he didn't awnser the question
@@usernametaken017 yeah he did the question was “how do you connect two 3D printed parts together” and he showed a variety of ways to do it
@@randomlychangingguy6209 He showed the WRONG ways to use them
I've always used the super glue method but for bigger Functional prints i figure welding would be the way to go. (satisfying snaps all round tho.)
Weld and then melt to make it look vetter
Well if he knew how to weld plastic it would have been
That 3d pen surprised me how well it held together
That's not a plastic welder and if it was that wouldn't break so easily
I tell them that they deserve to be with one another while I gaslight one into the relationship.
YES
Amazing
🍷🗿
Lmfao
Enfp?
🤣
Like welding, you should try V notching the parts before belting any kind of bond into the surface. This will give you depth to the item.
yep....the ol'trusty beveling
This is what is called a butt joint (If I remember it correctly). It is the weakest possible connection between two pieces, since just about anything you use to connect them, you can pull them apart with minimal effort. You need two pieces that will fit together like a puzzle piece. After welding or nailing, it's neigh impossible to separate them without breaking them.
I thought it was vaseline
@@xiplication my woodshop teacher said it was a butt joint, but we both might be right
Exactly what I thought, a few dovetail joints would strengthen it no end
Its actually not, if you look there are wafers that connect the two parts
Thanks
Me * *Prints one single part* * , * *breaks it* * gosh it breaks too
Yess
That's what I'm saying
To be frank, depending on orientation, it would have been stronger than his shitty joints lol
-Nails and glues two pieces of wood
-Hits them with an axe
Lol 😂
The thing is plastic welders do work. It’s just that you did just put holes in them making them weaker. You need like to mold the plastic together like the hot. Tip down the line and mold it together, not just put holes in it.
If you sand the edges of those two pieces before using Super Glue, it will help it bond much stronger and be harder to snap like that.
Why is that?
@@nothere3982 Super Glue isn't some cheap glue that doesn't work. It is an cyanoacrylate adhesive which has an extremely strong bond.
Sanding the edges of two plastic parts gives the glue much more surface to grip onto and bond the pieces together. Doing it the way he did in the video will never work and gives a false impression of the method being used.
@@landfallstudio3482 that's cool. I was wondering about the bonds between the materials
@@nothere3982 This is a radical reaction if you're interested. It's part of organic chemistry where you have two different kind of radicals which form copolymers
I love how he used almost none of the tools right
Imma just get rid of it no fighting
Ye without the almost
True
I still can’t figure out how to keep them together I just get this urge to rip them apart the second they come into my line of sight
Newborns?
@@Foxborne yes I have also learned how to do it with the least mess wanna learn?
@@cadenbos2713 yes please
@@Foxborne wrap it in tarp and make sure there is a opening at the bottom after that rip the legs off and close tarp flip over and cut opening on opposite side start with the head and then the arms and boom you have dinner
@@cadenbos2713 damn that's a life hack right there. When I'm cooking dinner for my pet octopus. The blood just goes everywhere
For ABS parts you can use a little bit of acetone. It dissolves the plastic into it, then when it evaporates you're left with one solid piece of plastic
I use filament and a sodering iron and use it as a “gas stick welding at home”
It works like normal stick welding, but now with plastic filament instead of copper rod
@@Its_Captain_Jack_Sparrow acetylene gas welding, not tig, i havent done tig yet
more like brazing but yeah thats cool, ive never though of doing that
"Aw gee, how can I possibly keep anything properly connected together when I have this powerful urge to break everything I own like a fucking animal? :( "
FuNnY jOkE!1!1!1!1!1
👍👍👍👍
I'm sorry
Bro, it’s testing durability so yeah your gonna push it to the edge lmao
@@BtlSomme alway be testin the durability of human skulls, and for some reason I’m wanted for murder? It’s crazy.
@@Irequiresustenance1285 Thats what im talking about
😂😂😂
Plastic welders have strength in one direction (pulling) even on a car the recommend welding the seams apart for strength in all directions.
So both would be a viable option.
But I normally glue middle then weld seams glue is for deep mechanical bond and then you have permanent bond on the edges.
Because on larger pieces welding seams doesn’t penetrate all the way so super glue solves that.
Generally speaking there are 3 physical ways of joining any part.
1. Form fit --> dove tails, snap fits, bow ties, typical wood joints, etc.
2. Friction or force bond --> screws, wedges, magnets, etc.
3. adhesive bond --> all types of glues, welds, soldering and melting
It is best to combine them for example use a dove tail design to create a from fit for a strong connection and additionally use glue if the connection has to stay that way or wedges if you want to disassemble it some time later. Try to avoid using only one connection type and always remember the 3 connection types.
Solvent welding. Melts the edge of the plastics through a chemical reaction so they become 1 physical piece.
Makes it as difficult to break as any other part of the project
That just smoothens out the roughness, is it possible to use it to weld? I mean you talking about ABS in alcohol vapors right? that'd only melt superficially to create a glossy surface
@@vinayakonimani7628 no, I'm referring to something along the lines of Plastic Welder like Micro Mark or the Citadel glue, where it uses a specific solvent or solvent blend with no dissolved polymer to create a joint between two thermoplastic parts.
Essentially causing a chemical reaction to melt the surface of the parts and then melding them into one solid piece.
@@eliluttrell7637 i see
@@eliluttrell7637 Citadel glue is fantastic but I hate the bottle, the applicator always gets so clogged
Couldn't you just pencil weld them..?
Bro you breaking so hard, a solid 3d Print would just break
"I connect them with love, like i do to people"
-Some single guy
Love does get sticky if you rub it right 😌🙄
@@MMMM-sv1lk Yeah youre right
@@MMMM-sv1lk wait🤨📸📸
@@MMMM-sv1lk NONONONO 💀
I use superglue or machine screws, but if I use glue, I'll usually try to design the parts to have a friction fit when they're put together. That way, the glue is just helping make sure the parts don't wiggle loose over time.
I've been using resin glue + UV and it works super well! Great bonding with PLA.
Thanks for sharing!
Had to scour the comments section for any actual ideas. Thanks for your suggestion
@@VDOless It works super well! Been using it for all of my prints lately (when needed)
Nothing this man cannot break in two.
I’m a welder. You have to get penatration to both sides of the groove. It will always break easier when you force against the weld.
shouldn't he have welded it all the way up diagonally?
Anyone wanna talk about how they weren't connected either there was a good like 8th apart
This guy has the mindset; "you can break anything with enough force"
I think u should
1. First add super glue to bothe sides
2. Stick them together and add 3d pen
3. Then weld the plastic
4. And lastly melt it smooth
"Let's see how you connect two-- ÆEEEÜUUUGH" 🤣🤣🤣
i use the actual filament reel and as solder and a soldering iron. Also some designed in pegs that slot together helps the glue bind better along with some sanding. Sanding helps glue a LOT
You didnt use the plastic welder even remotely correct but good effort ig lol
I make sure to weld all seems of my two sides and this guy didn’t try at all😂
It still goes to show its efficiency
@@Jojo-rm4mo It doesn’t, but ok. All we saw was how not to weld two plastic pieces together, lol.
@@landfallstudio3482 I mean it was more effective than other methods, even when welded improperly
@@landfallstudio3482 it does, but okay
Me, I would print them combined 😂
"Lets see how tou like too combine 2- *AuGhHu* "
At a convention I went to, a company was advertising a solution that can melt different 3D printed parts together, and it's applied like glue. That way the plastic is connected like it was printed that way.
3D Gloop! Just realized it’s missing from this post 🤦♂️🤦♂️
So it's like plastic cement? Used model kits? If it works with whatever plastic is used in a 3d print it will be the best option.
@@UncleJessy well I'm interested..
@@mcavity i've used it and it is pretty strong. It actually surprised me how strong the bond was. i've used wood glue in the past and wanted to try something else. Then i stumbled onto 3D Gloop and was a little skeptical at first, but it was pretty good !
So PVC cement like everyone already uses in plumbing...
Alternative : Make a new 3D Print with connected design 🙂
Yep
My same comment; 'reprint as one 😲'
@@electech_5495 ikr 😫
@@electech_5495 it would take a pretty long time
My school has a bunch of really really small printers though, like much bigger than 5x5 inches doesn't work
3d gloop. It's extremely strong and I've seen plastic on other sections of prints break before the glued section does. They make 3 specialized versions, one for pla, one for petg or other pet like materials, and one for abs
Hart to use on awkward parts tho but it is nice on flat straight and other easier shapes to work with.
@@NECRODOOMFX I've never had trouble using it on any shaped parts. I work on a lot of cosplay stuff as a business and gloop has always been what I've used. Once I started, I never went back to regular super glue
3D Gloop for PLA of course!
People's liberation army?
@@CasperTheRamKnight no please leave at
just print them together 🗿
some prints are too big to be printed all at once, like a sword for cosplay, or bunch of pieces for a suit
@@cal_ren778 It’s just a joke bro
@@Vinces_Animations You aren't OP, don't assume unless they say so. You would be surprised by just who is serious about what.
@@OtakuUnitedStudio Well he used the emoji so I thought it was a joke… I’m sorry
Use sandpaper on both side of the 3D printed items then use super glue. Increasing surface area means more glue could hold on. Sometimes i use few piece of shredded cotton ball on the side then super glue and sandpaper to smooth.
This was so awesome I'm glad I spent my time watching it.
Bro was like
“Lemme try my hardest to break them and say it was just weak 👍”
when did he say it was just weak??????
@@EXTR Yeah, that's what I'm wondering. All he did was break them apart after sticking them together...
I would imagine depending on the plastic that model glue would work well. Certain types melt and fuze the plastic. At that point you will just break it instead of breaking the seam
PLA can't be chemically fused.
@@christopher_navoni that's dumb, what about the other kind of resin? The dip one. I'm not familiar with 3d printing stuff.
@@betafishjeremy7454 that’s a different type of printer altogether bud
"Print them together so they make a solid square"
* Breaks the square in half anyway *
Bro he was connecting them fine with some of them so he literally broke through the pieces themselves and said it didn't work.
That loop was clean
Just take my soldering iron and some random roll of filament and “weld” then together.
I connect them in the CAD software and then print them
That moment when the pieces are already connected but you break them apart just to find an inconvenient way to connect them back together
Melt the first parts inside using a heat gun, this makes the inside gooey, then do the same on the other part and slowly stick them together, which makes simultaneous fusion.
I use a soldering iron and some filament to weld them together. It works really good
"Lets see you can connect too"
Flex tape! Duh
*_NOW THAT'S A LOTTA DAMAGE!_*
Uncle Jessy: Dosen't know how to stick
Me: FLEX TAPE
I usually solvent weld them. as I'm mostly printing ABS I simply brush acetone on the surfaces, let it soak for a like 30 seconds and then press them together. for PLA You can use Tetrahydrofuran in the same way. Acetone kinda works for PLA, but THF is a lot better.
"How to connect 2 3d printed parts together?"
Not do it correctly sometimes
-this guy
“How to connect two 3d printed parts”
*shows you every way not to connect 3d printed parts*
Use me as the dislike button
@@xXVICTOR-PLAYZ-2018Xx no 😎
"How do u like to combine ur 3parts"
Me:Tape
All Of This Work, Your Just Really Strong.
JB Weld is my go-to if I need it to be really strong. Otherwise it's just super glue or wood glue (this works surprisingly well!).
What about PVC cement?
@@LeoInterVir to be honest, I haven't tried PVC cement because it is a solvent for PVC plastic that literally welds the pieces together. I've used it as "glue" for other plastics before and it works ok, but can easily break free with a little force.
I haven't tried it, but if you want a result like PVC glue on PVC (IE. A weld), you would want a solvent called dichloromethane (DCM). That should be stronger and less messy than JB Weld but harder to get your hands on and probably more expensive.
Side note: While doing a little search for available products, it turns out DCM is pretty bad for your health. If you or anybody reading this decide to go that route, you should wear proper protective gear and only use it in a well ventilated area.
I am going to stick with JB Weld.
"How do you combine two 3d printed parts?"
Me:"I SIMPLY DON'T"
"How do you connect 2 3D printed parts together?"
Me who doesn't have a 3D printer: 😐😶🌫️
Ender 3 might be the best to start...you wont regret
@@mr.lunatic3157 mines an ender 3 v2 with crtouch. Works really well
Edit: filament is hatchbox
Make a tongue and groove, superglue it literally the second the printer finishes (no contamination). Works fantastic on ABS. Can’t say for PLA.
When he did the plastic weld it wasn’t connected fully, there was space in the middle that allowed it to break easily
Plot twist: He's actually really fucking strong and normally none of those would break
He also printed them so that they break eaily in that direction. I imagine that the superglue did bind the pieces together, but he broke one of the prints near the edge.
😂🤣 def not
I thought he was gonna share a tip, but he's asking for help
XD
no one is talking about the perfectly timed burp.
"Lets see if you can connect tw- *Burps*"
"How do you connect a 3d printed parts?"
Me: *Heats all the sides including the top only*
I use superglue because I'm not thrashing or bashing my prints, so it works fine
+1
Plastic weld properly! And staples! Worked like a charm on my bumper and head lights
I've been trying to make a table for years, I keep getting the first leg on and then snapping it off. I just don't understand how to get past this step.
Make an interlocking mechanism and glue them together? Idk i have no experience with 3d printing
@@siddhantamallick6837 I have a feeling its a joke but I really have no Idea what the punchline is. Maybe I'm stupid? 🤷♂️
An actual answer would be helpful 😋
melting it is best, his technique wasn't great though
There's always going to be a weak spot at the connection. That's true with anything you build.
Especially since he is bending it to fail, he connects one side and bends it where the unconnected side has the most force applied
Filament pins, printed screw threads, hot glue, and super glue, and of course, whatever random cheap screw is on hand, if I'm attaching a print to wood.
A lot of my recent work has been with my Go! Gridfinity portable boxes, I use filament for both hinge and latch.
Yeh when you bend them with the might of Zeus its plastic it's gonna snap
I've always melted them deep then fill them in with a 3d pen
How do I connect the two part? Well if I were you, you should just print them together at the first place HAHAHAH
Haha agreed
How about a cosplay part thats bigger than the printer 🤨
@@mr.lunatic3157 blahaj
@@BasicallyRandoI am norwegian so i can speak swedisj. Its written blåhaj
@@OBILIB 🤓 issue
For parts that need a strong connection (and I am going to sand later anyway), I use 2 part fiberglass resin. I fill in the gaps and coat the top.
I can just imagine the smell of burnt plastic in his room
He’s probs using pla which is made of corn so it wouldn’t smell other than a slight maple syrupy smell
3D Gloop of course! It's all I use.
The Waffle House has found it’s new host
The Waffle House has found it’s new host
The Waffle House has found it’s new host
I use a superglue with activator. After the parts have stuck together, the contact edge is "welded" together with a soldering iron - then any uneven areas are filled with filament. Then resin or putty (aluminium putty) is used to straighten everything - sanding is of course necessary.
Dichloromethane is great for most of the PLA and PETG plastics. If you cover both parts with it and press together for at least a few hours, it will basically weld it together.
I use a wood burning. Not only does it bind them but it cleans it up nicely. A bit if sanding and you won’t even notice it was 2 pieces.
first of all, you don’t let the staple get red hot, you press it against the plastic and slowly turn the welder on and off, till it’s melted to the desired depth, and also you put the staples 90 degrees the wrong way for best rigidity. then you trim the legs of the staple, melt the plastic over it while sometimes even combining it with some metal mesh.
at least that’s how i was taught, and all the shit i’ve fixed hasn’t broke yet… with the exception of my snowmobile hood and windshield, but that’s cause i crashed it 😅
Plastic welder and recently found out 0.035 wire works great for small binding processes
Honestly, I would go with plastic welder, its sturdy and will stay like that for a super long time, it can take many hits because it hard to break and is durable, its also not to hard to weld it, its super easy for it to weld. And you can also weld other broken plastic, (obviously lol) but thats most facts about it.
Print them as one part I know right that's so unimaginably smart
I like the melting technique. I just use my soldering iron and sink it deep between the seams to combine them. I then add additional plastic to the seam to fill the space.
Cheapest and best way is flex tape🗿
Personally I use super glue and I have not been able to break it apart! I super glued a handle onto a fairly large shredder I made and it is under constant torque, not broken yet!
I'm a fan of acetone welding for PLA/ABS. I think you have to use something else for PETG
if its abs i paint acetone on the 2 sides with a brush do a few coats and then mash your parts together and air dry. Works like a charm.
Mortise and tenon joints added prior to printing. Also works with tongue and groove. Epoxy together and it’s just as strong as a single print