Hi there Mark, I'm almost in the same boat as you as far as bikes. I have a Beta 498 set up as my "adventure dual sport" and my Super Tenere. I got rid of my beat to crap 05 KTM 300EXC. I bought that bike new and raced a little bit of desert novice class and nasty trails. I'm now pushing 60 years old and want another 2 stroke. I really like how you are setting up your bike to fit you good. You can't beat the price point and reliability of the Yamaha. I'm looking at the 250FX or the 250X as my next trail bike. The simplicity (and reliability) of the 2 stroke is hard argue. Good job and good luck on your racing. Put up a review of your Smart Carb when you get it.
Thank you for the subscribe! How do you like that Beta 498? Can you get a bigger tank for it? Hows the reliability and oil change interval? RE: SmartCarb , Will do Chris! I'm really excited to see how it changes the bike around. I'm about to test out the GYTR flywheel, new suspension, Tubliss system, and pegs/bar mounts at the moment down here in Flagstaff, AZ. I'll build a good baseline on the bike right now and then try to give as much detail/feedback as I can on the SmartCarb. Take care and enjoy the ride man!!
@@SourceADV My 498 is a 2012 and has been a very reliable mount. It has a 4 gallon tank. I'm well over 300 hours with only one valve adjustment. It is nowhere near as good as the FI KTM 500 though. Oil changes about every 15 hours or so. 800ml each side. I even got my Iron Butt on it!! advrider.com/f/threads/doing-the-iba-on-a-dirt-bike.1019315/
@@olliechristopher467 Wow man! Thats awesome, that IB badge is no joke! That chain slider photo... damnnn hahah Good work man, let me know if you have any more questions! I'll be getting the footage of the Nomad tower install on the 500 in the near future and an updated bike walk around. Take care and enjoy the rid!
Their jetting I am sure gets you in the ballpark better than stock jetting, and I bet they have done their homework well, but they still have to error on the rich side because not only elevation, but temperature and humidity, and any performance engine changes you do, (Head, pipe, porting) can all change the jetting requirements for "crisp" jetting. If your "correct" spark plug is not a very light brown color with nothing wet on it, you are still running rich for the rpm's you are riding at.
I like that the smart carb has the external low speed mixture clicker on top. Sometimes it’s nice to be able to tune the low/mid of the bike depending on what you are looking for
Dirt Zen the stock pipe is a bit more towards mid-high end power, the gnarly definitely chugs better when you need it too, but still has a healthy mid. It does sign off pretty early. So it all depends on the type of riding you want to do. The stock pipe is better tucked into the bike too. Cheers!
I got a 20 250sx and have been motoring so cal vet tracks and have been having fun tuning it. Scalvini werks cone pipe with the R304 shorty from PC, 9oz stealey flywheel weight, JDJetting kit with adjustable air mix screw and a Kreft power valve adjuster. Crisp and smooth delivery with great unstoppable revs!! Looking to do suspension but haven’t decided to use, Enzo or Gold valves or kreft? I’m almost 57 and my mind says I’m fast but only for a lap or two lol, c ya at the Vet National ✌️🤙🏼
@@tenmileoutdoors2184 All right, those videos are live on the SmartCarb! Check em out! Install - ruclips.net/video/svibz6BUmGo/видео.html Ride/Review - ruclips.net/video/egoM0lnsaSg/видео.html
Let me give you a great tip for putting on your front wheel, because all the YT vids are wrong, and your forks will not be parallel, (causing some binding and premature bushing wear.). You can have a simple tool made with a lathe, and I have the length of the tool already figured out for that bike (I have the 2019 YZ250 2-stroke). With a axle clamp loose on the right side (opposite of the brake disk), pumping the fork or stopping the spinning wheel with the brake does not do a good job. Have a 1" diameter piece of aluminum stock machined off at both ends to be 5.661" long. That is the distance between the lower plated slider legs where the forks are parallel, and it fits through a hole in my brake disk. With the bike on the stand, wheel off the ground, tighten everything but the right side axle clamp. Then slip in the rod between the chrome legs as low on the fork sliders as you can (through disk works well on mine), nice and straight, and tap the loose clamped end of the fork with a rubber mallet until the round stock is tight between the legs, (and straight), then tighten the clamp, and carefully remove the aluminum tool (you can put a bit of grease on the ends of the tool to make that a bit easier, but the aluminum will not damage the hard plating.). Now your forks will be parallel with in + or - .001". After getting stiffer springs for my weight, and using the YT methods, I actually had to go one stiffness further for the springs because I eliminated the binding---that everybody has by following YT pros. With those YT methods, the fork had to move at least another .020" to be actually parallel. I also rotated my bars back down to what we used before freestyle, and all the sudden, I could corner better. I am glad you have that tank. I bought one just like it, but have not mounted it yet,---and it is not as ugly as I expected. :) Doug in Michigan
You know, I cannot remember! 🤣 I do remember though that the stock caliper holder was so soft that this eventually bent in an touched the rear rotor. The tusk one from Rocky Mountain is all billet and very reasonable, probably a better option: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-rear-brake-caliper-support-w-brake-disc-guard-p?v=15896
Dude, I actually have a whole video you can find on my channel on how to do it in the YZ250X playlist, but I'll be honest, the little collars in the Fastway pegs dont last that long. Ive had to weld them to keep them from flopping around. Take a look a Carapaks, they make drop pegs for the 250X that are beefy and reasonably priced: carapaks.com/product/stainless-steel-foot-pegs-yamaha -- Hope that helps
@@SourceADV I know dome guys in the North end of CA. who makes some great little boat racing 2-stroke engines (Quick Draw), but they use a stock crank, so they were having problems burning up the lower rod bearing. That forced them into engine durability oil testing on their dyno, (16,000rpm wide open for a 1/2 hour). I have not talked with them in a couple years, (we are good friends though), but they found the Motul Kart GP 2-t oil and the Klotz supertechniplate were the best oils they tested to date. The Klotz has 20% Castor oil mixed in and runs dirtier than the fully syn ester based Motul, but man, is that motul expensive. With good jetting, the Klotz is just fine for me.
@@EarthSurferUSA - Yeah man, I just run whatever the manual says these days because I only race enduros, hard enduro & hare scrambles. My bikes are not getting wrung out like an MX bike and I do top ends every 120 hours no matter what and they usually look great and yeah the bike gains a tiny bit of power, but in our race formats it doesnt really matter, its all about keeping corner speed and flow through rough crap.
Rob Kirby Yoshi only does 4 stroke pipes for public purchase. The Two stroke exhaust market is pretty well dominated by FMF, Pro Circuit, and a couple other smaller players. Thanks for the kind words! Take care and enjoy the ride!
Thanks man! I looked into it and will probably stay with the X style power valve for our riding style out here in CO. It’s so loose dry and slippery that a lot of the time I end up riding the torque curve versus being on the pipe.
Less oil means more gas is passing through the carb which actually means the bike runs richer in terms of Fuel:Air ratio. Whether a bike is running rich or lean typically refers to its fuel:air ratio, not oil:gas ratio.
@@Megadeath39 What oil ratio you run at is dependent on the oil you use and the conditions you run in, not just what is recommended in the Yamaha manual. The oil Yamaha recommends is not fully synthetic like Motorex Cross Power 2T, and this bike is not a track bike that is getting wrung out all the time, it's a singletrack bike. The bike was jetted corrected for our elevation using a JD Jetting kit and then I eventually went to the smart carb which was awesome everywhere. Thank you for the feedback though.
I have! I'm starting with the smart carb to eliminate all jetting issues and try to get it running as clean as possible for our riding style in Colorado. I need very clean low to mid transition for the technical rocky/rooty hill climbs with over 300+ feet of vertical gain. The guys at Smart Carb advised me that the Apex & RK Tech head's make the smart carb harder to tune and they are confident that the bike will run perfectly with my setup. But... we'll see right ;) hahha More videos to come, subscribe and stay tuned!
Kevin McCutcheon totally, great product as well, they have the same tech. I have less experience with the SmartCarb and wanted to give it a shot. I have it installed and am doing testing. The power is amazing, no surges and amazingly responsive. I’m just getting the idle dialed and I’ll be as happy as a clam with it!
It fits pretty well, there are some weird places where the radiator shrouds mount to the tank that cause gaps. I used a heat gun and formed the plastic a bit on the shrouds themselves to close the gaps. The twin petcocks are kinda weird and the fuel line routing is weird, but overall it works well. It’s 3.2 gallons
@@SourceADV sweet.i was gonna get lactron but I have heard the smart works better on ktms idk bout yzx's. Tell u one thing I sure lost alotta top when I switched to the gNarly from stock pipe. Felt like it took alotta from bike. What say you bout that?.gonna go with procircuit with new carb
@@craigsteinman9807 Riding rocky/loose Colorado single track, a mid/top end hit is the enemy. I've got mine tuned for torque and a low/mid hit. So I might be the wrong guy to ask for your application. The carb just seems to accentuate whatever other tuning you are doing and make it work flawlessly from idle to great over-rev. I really really like it! It's like having a TPI bike without all the weight and complexity. My guess would be that you could swap pipe/silencer and pull the flywheel weight and end up with a totally different bike. But, i'll let the videos speak for themselves, let me know if you have any other questions - Install video - ruclips.net/video/svibz6BUmGo/видео.html + Ride/Review Video ruclips.net/video/egoM0lnsaSg/видео.html
I’m actually doing a build on this right now to make it street legal. It’s not super simple. It needs a new stator, and if you want to run LED headlights you need a small battery. So sadly no, not a direct bolt on like a WR
It’s less oil, but proportionally more fuel... So it’s actually richer in terms of air fuel ratio. I was running 55:1 and jetting to that because I was running Motorex synth oil in this bike. I found I liked maxima K2 at 40:1 the most. There are a lot of great videos out there that explain oil mixture ratio and how that affects Air-fuel ratio. I think dirt bike channels actually sums it up pretty well - ruclips.net/video/LIDV1PDr6L0/видео.html
Bike was brand new in this video. The factory air filter oil that is pretty close to clear on this pup. I run twin air oil on all my filters so they turn nice and green 👍🏻👍🏻
I bought a new 1988 Honda CR250 and assumed the filter was oiled, it was not. So when I cleaned the filter for the first time, gobs of sand was in the intake boot. Stick my finger in there, and pulled out a lot of sand. I did not take the top end apart because it was running great, just took apart the intake and cleaned it up. When I changed the piston/ring in the winter time, of course the soft piston had quite a few scratches on it, but the cylinder plating (Nikasil for the first time in 1988) was untouched. I ran that bike and raced it for 5 summers, replacing the piston and rings every winter and replaced the bottom end bearings after year 3. Still fast as heck (I ported it too), when I sold it, but the plating was wearing a bit thin by that time.
@@SourceADV I promise you, with 32:1 and that same oil,--your rings will last longer. If you keep track of your hours, half the test is already done. Measure the ring end gap, and change the mix for the same amount of time with a new set of rings.
@EarthSurferUSA makes sense, but all the KtM’s including the SX 2T bikes run 60:1 with that same oil. From my understanding it has more to do with the oil itself than the mixture as to what they can be run at. Cheers
Question for ya.. Did you find that where the stock pipe go's into the motor , that the pipe was really close to the frame. Any idea why it's so close ? Is the new pipe fit the same way ?
Yeah dude. It’s a bummer. I’ve actually had to replace two pipes already not from big dents but from bends (with the carbon pipe guard) that make the pipe touch the frame. It’s just a design flaw for the YZ’s. They definitely built with MX in mind originally, not woods riding. I keep a spare pipe on hand just in case
I have a 2018 250X and couldn't be happier! I live in southern CA and she handles vet-level MX tracks, sand dunes and wide open desert with no issues.
Heck yeah! Tried and true bike! So much fun
Love the zip tie trick for the pipe. I just filed down the one from my kids trampoline on the bench grinder.
haha! Nice, MacGuyver moves there! Take care out there!
Is there a way to put a cooling fan on the 250X?
You would need to add a new stator and a battery potentially, which I have done for making mine street legal, but the fan has pretty high draw.
Love my Yz250x, most versatile bike out there
For sure! Enjoy the ride!
I own a 2019 and best bike I've ever ridden I absolutely recommend this bike Yamaha nailed it with the transmission power and suspension
I have the same set up as you except I have the lectron carb. Awesome bike! and good review.
Heck yeah!! Thank you!
Hi there Mark, I'm almost in the same boat as you as far as bikes. I have a Beta 498 set up as my "adventure dual sport" and my Super Tenere. I got rid of my beat to crap 05 KTM 300EXC. I bought that bike new and raced a little bit of desert novice class and nasty trails. I'm now pushing 60 years old and want another 2 stroke. I really like how you are setting up your bike to fit you good. You can't beat the price point and reliability of the Yamaha. I'm looking at the 250FX or the 250X as my next trail bike. The simplicity (and reliability) of the 2 stroke is hard argue. Good job and good luck on your racing. Put up a review of your Smart Carb when you get it.
Thank you for the subscribe! How do you like that Beta 498? Can you get a bigger tank for it? Hows the reliability and oil change interval?
RE: SmartCarb , Will do Chris! I'm really excited to see how it changes the bike around.
I'm about to test out the GYTR flywheel, new suspension, Tubliss system, and pegs/bar mounts at the moment down here in Flagstaff, AZ. I'll build a good baseline on the bike right now and then try to give as much detail/feedback as I can on the SmartCarb. Take care and enjoy the ride man!!
@@SourceADV My 498 is a 2012 and has been a very reliable mount. It has a 4 gallon tank. I'm well over 300 hours with only one valve adjustment. It is nowhere near as good as the FI KTM 500 though. Oil changes about every 15 hours or so. 800ml each side. I even got my Iron Butt on it!!
advrider.com/f/threads/doing-the-iba-on-a-dirt-bike.1019315/
@@olliechristopher467 Wow man! Thats awesome, that IB badge is no joke! That chain slider photo... damnnn hahah Good work man, let me know if you have any more questions! I'll be getting the footage of the Nomad tower install on the 500 in the near future and an updated bike walk around. Take care and enjoy the rid!
Nice truck;) we got the same bike & almost the same truck!! Great taste buddy!!
hahah!! Thanks man! You too hahah
@@SourceADV Same!!
@ridgeridermoto haha sick!
JD jetting kit is the way to go if you are riding elevation! They have their $#it together! Nice bike
I went smart carb, it was awesome
Their jetting I am sure gets you in the ballpark better than stock jetting, and I bet they have done their homework well, but they still have to error on the rich side because not only elevation, but temperature and humidity, and any performance engine changes you do, (Head, pipe, porting) can all change the jetting requirements for "crisp" jetting. If your "correct" spark plug is not a very light brown color with nothing wet on it, you are still running rich for the rpm's you are riding at.
If your plug porcelain is grey or white, you are running dangerously lean at the rpm's you ride at.
just ordered the kit for my 2019 im pumped to get it dialed after fouling some plugs every few hours
Cool, I ended up going to SmartCarb because I go up and down 4000-5000 feet of elevation regularly for different riding areas.
I’m tired of dicking with the mikuni going to lectron
I like that the smart carb has the external low speed mixture clicker on top. Sometimes it’s nice to be able to tune the low/mid of the bike depending on what you are looking for
I love the look of the stock black pipe. Is there a noticeable difference when you changed the pipe? How so? Thanks man, great video.
Dirt Zen the stock pipe is a bit more towards mid-high end power, the gnarly definitely chugs better when you need it too, but still has a healthy mid. It does sign off pretty early. So it all depends on the type of riding you want to do. The stock pipe is better tucked into the bike too. Cheers!
Ah the ability to get whatever you want for a bike, I can only imagine the fun.
It’s not bad, I wish I had a sponsor though. I have to hide new bike parts from my GF. Ha
@@SourceADV don't marry or that will change, LOL. I am trying to find a 19 250x once I sell my GS1200.
Hahah!
I got a 20 250sx and have been motoring so cal vet tracks and have been having fun tuning it. Scalvini werks cone pipe with the R304 shorty from PC, 9oz stealey flywheel weight, JDJetting kit with adjustable air mix screw and a Kreft power valve adjuster. Crisp and smooth delivery with great unstoppable revs!! Looking to do suspension but haven’t decided to use, Enzo or Gold valves or kreft? I’m almost 57 and my mind says I’m fast but only for a lap or two lol, c ya at the Vet National ✌️🤙🏼
Nice! Sounds like a real ripper of a bike you have there, I bet that setup is prime! Have fun out there!
Are you going to add a Apex XC head? Awesome bike - it is on my short list for my next one.
No plans, the smartcarb guys said they don’t play nice together.
@@SourceADV That helps with my decision making on mods. Thank you.
The smartcarb team is super helpful if you have any questions
The apex head made a big difference on my bike, butt using the stock carb with JD jet kit
Curious to see what your thoughts are with the smart carb on the X, will you post a video?
Already working on it! I'm going to take my time and be really thorough though. Initial impressions are great though!
@@SourceADV Sweet! I have a lectron on a beta now, might go 250x w/ SC soon though!
@@tenmileoutdoors2184 Heck yeah, feel free to reach out any time @ SourceADV.com if you have any questions about the 205X
@@tenmileoutdoors2184 All right, those videos are live on the SmartCarb! Check em out! Install - ruclips.net/video/svibz6BUmGo/видео.html Ride/Review - ruclips.net/video/egoM0lnsaSg/видео.html
The ride/review video is still processing the HD, so maybe give it an hour or so
Let me give you a great tip for putting on your front wheel, because all the YT vids are wrong, and your forks will not be parallel, (causing some binding and premature bushing wear.). You can have a simple tool made with a lathe, and I have the length of the tool already figured out for that bike (I have the 2019 YZ250 2-stroke). With a axle clamp loose on the right side (opposite of the brake disk), pumping the fork or stopping the spinning wheel with the brake does not do a good job. Have a 1" diameter piece of aluminum stock machined off at both ends to be 5.661" long. That is the distance between the lower plated slider legs where the forks are parallel, and it fits through a hole in my brake disk. With the bike on the stand, wheel off the ground, tighten everything but the right side axle clamp. Then slip in the rod between the chrome legs as low on the fork sliders as you can (through disk works well on mine), nice and straight, and tap the loose clamped end of the fork with a rubber mallet until the round stock is tight between the legs, (and straight), then tighten the clamp, and carefully remove the aluminum tool (you can put a bit of grease on the ends of the tool to make that a bit easier, but the aluminum will not damage the hard plating.).
Now your forks will be parallel with in + or - .001". After getting stiffer springs for my weight, and using the YT methods, I actually had to go one stiffness further for the springs because I eliminated the binding---that everybody has by following YT pros. With those YT methods, the fork had to move at least another .020" to be actually parallel.
I also rotated my bars back down to what we used before freestyle, and all the sudden, I could corner better.
I am glad you have that tank. I bought one just like it, but have not mounted it yet,---and it is not as ugly as I expected. :)
Doug in Michigan
Cheers! Great tips, thank you!
@@SourceADV Your much welcome man. Happy roosting. :) Doug in Michigan
I love the rear brake rotor protector ! Which one is it ? Gottta put this thing on santas list🤓
You know, I cannot remember! 🤣 I do remember though that the stock caliper holder was so soft that this eventually bent in an touched the rear rotor. The tusk one from Rocky Mountain is all billet and very reasonable, probably a better option: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-rear-brake-caliper-support-w-brake-disc-guard-p?v=15896
super clean bike
Thanks man! Check out the street legal video I just put up, it’s a very different bike now. I will be doing an overview of the whole build soon too
Any info on fitting the Fastway Evo 4 footpegs to the 250x? What modifications were needed and what fitting kits etc did you use?
Dude, I actually have a whole video you can find on my channel on how to do it in the YZ250X playlist, but I'll be honest, the little collars in the Fastway pegs dont last that long. Ive had to weld them to keep them from flopping around. Take a look a Carapaks, they make drop pegs for the 250X that are beefy and reasonably priced: carapaks.com/product/stainless-steel-foot-pegs-yamaha -- Hope that helps
Heres that Fastway video too -- ruclips.net/video/eTzAz0tPrUs/видео.html
Thank you, I really appreciate the help! I’ll look into both. Great content 👍🏼
Thanks man!
Looks like Slavens sells the Carapaks footpegs too, so you can save on VAT/shipping. Cheers
Quick question, you said 50/1 might be too rich??? I'm on a 23X and have been running rich. I keep cutting oil but I'm scared to go too lean
Just run it at whatever the manual says and use a JD Jetting kit to dial in the carb or get a smart carb
Hi nice video , I have the same.bike and jd also am curious what oil fuel mixturre do you use with jd
Hey man! Thanks for reaching out. I run the smart carb now and am running Maxima K2 @ 40:1
@@SourceADV yess ! Me too this summer I will try 40:1 with jd jetting
@@SourceADV I know dome guys in the North end of CA. who makes some great little boat racing 2-stroke engines (Quick Draw), but they use a stock crank, so they were having problems burning up the lower rod bearing. That forced them into engine durability oil testing on their dyno, (16,000rpm wide open for a 1/2 hour). I have not talked with them in a couple years, (we are good friends though), but they found the Motul Kart GP 2-t oil and the Klotz supertechniplate were the best oils they tested to date. The Klotz has 20% Castor oil mixed in and runs dirtier than the fully syn ester based Motul, but man, is that motul expensive. With good jetting, the Klotz is just fine for me.
@@EarthSurferUSA - Yeah man, I just run whatever the manual says these days because I only race enduros, hard enduro & hare scrambles. My bikes are not getting wrung out like an MX bike and I do top ends every 120 hours no matter what and they usually look great and yeah the bike gains a tiny bit of power, but in our race formats it doesnt really matter, its all about keeping corner speed and flow through rough crap.
I'm new to dirtbikes. Why isn't there a yoshi pipe for the 250x? Awesome video BTW
Rob Kirby Yoshi only does 4 stroke pipes for public purchase. The Two stroke exhaust market is pretty well dominated by FMF, Pro Circuit, and a couple other smaller players.
Thanks for the kind words! Take care and enjoy the ride!
Try the governer mod it helps the mid range out with a bigger hit
Thanks man! I looked into it and will probably stay with the X style power valve for our riding style out here in CO. It’s so loose dry and slippery that a lot of the time I end up riding the torque curve versus being on the pipe.
@@SourceADV won't hurt you down low. It just evens out the transition from low-mid to mid-high. Broadens power. Must do
Cool, I’ll give it a shot, thanks
@@SourceADV What is he talking about exactly, a way to adjust the opening of the exhaust power valve? I would be interested in researching that.
@@EarthSurferUSA Yeah, just look up YZ250X powervalve mod on the google, it's pretty well documented, changes it to how a YZ250 opens up the valve.
Smart Carb = Smart Move
Damn Skippy! Getting another one for my dads Freeride
I know its old but 50:1 is lean on oil . You were saying its rich. Gas:oil ratio
Less oil means more gas is passing through the carb which actually means the bike runs richer in terms of Fuel:Air ratio. Whether a bike is running rich or lean typically refers to its fuel:air ratio, not oil:gas ratio.
Correct
While the bike is running rich fuel air. I dunno if running that lean on oil is too healthy for long-term.
Probably wanna jet it correctly with a proper fuel oil ratio such as 40:1.
@@Megadeath39 What oil ratio you run at is dependent on the oil you use and the conditions you run in, not just what is recommended in the Yamaha manual. The oil Yamaha recommends is not fully synthetic like Motorex Cross Power 2T, and this bike is not a track bike that is getting wrung out all the time, it's a singletrack bike. The bike was jetted corrected for our elevation using a JD Jetting kit and then I eventually went to the smart carb which was awesome everywhere. Thank you for the feedback though.
Have you thought or heard about the power valve gov mod and apex head?
I have! I'm starting with the smart carb to eliminate all jetting issues and try to get it running as clean as possible for our riding style in Colorado. I need very clean low to mid transition for the technical rocky/rooty hill climbs with over 300+ feet of vertical gain. The guys at Smart Carb advised me that the Apex & RK Tech head's make the smart carb harder to tune and they are confident that the bike will run perfectly with my setup. But... we'll see right ;) hahha More videos to come, subscribe and stay tuned!
Did the jd jetting kit not work out for you?
monocogenit1 I regularly go from 5000 ft to 10000+ feet, I couldn’t find a setup that worked great
@@SourceADV Lectron carb is really worth the look at btw
Kevin McCutcheon totally, great product as well, they have the same tech. I have less experience with the SmartCarb and wanted to give it a shot. I have it installed and am doing testing. The power is amazing, no surges and amazingly responsive. I’m just getting the idle dialed and I’ll be as happy as a clam with it!
The tank cap extending to high like a volcano looks stupid 😅
🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️ - such is life. More gas in the desert and mountains is good.
Bike has no top end, hits a wall in 5th gear. Jetting or govenor mod needed?
Yeah, that’s definitely the consensus with the 250X. The smartcarb gave it more overrev but it’s still a low/mid bike for sure.
Did you put the oversize tank on? How did the Acerbis tank fit? What size is it? Thanks
It fits pretty well, there are some weird places where the radiator shrouds mount to the tank that cause gaps. I used a heat gun and formed the plastic a bit on the shrouds themselves to close the gaps. The twin petcocks are kinda weird and the fuel line routing is weird, but overall it works well. It’s 3.2 gallons
@@SourceADV why did you choose Acerbis over IMS?
Came with the bike so I didn’t really make a choice
I like to power wheelie as well as slow clutch wheelies alot of time . Will the 250x be good for doing wheelies?
As compared to what bike?
How does the size of the gnarly pipe compare to the stock pipe?
Definitely a little wider, especially on the left(drivers) side of the bike. It tends to take pretty good hits on the small outside bend.
@@SourceADV What side of the bike does the passenger sit on? The right side? lol Kidding. I am sure you mean the drive train chain side, I think. :)
Are you rebuilding it every 8-16 hours like the manual says? 😃
Lol!! No sir, did fist top end around 50 hours, still looked good
Never saw a smart carb on a yzx ..I got the pipe on my yzx thinking bo
Bout getting a smart carb let us know how it works is
Video is going up tomorrow! I have 20 hours on it, it’s great!
@@SourceADV sweet.i was gonna get lactron but I have heard the smart works better on ktms idk bout yzx's. Tell u one thing I sure lost alotta top when I switched to the gNarly from stock pipe. Felt like it took alotta from bike. What say you bout that?.gonna go with procircuit with new carb
@@SourceADV seemed so much more fun with stock pipe
@@craigsteinman9807 Riding rocky/loose Colorado single track, a mid/top end hit is the enemy. I've got mine tuned for torque and a low/mid hit. So I might be the wrong guy to ask for your application. The carb just seems to accentuate whatever other tuning you are doing and make it work flawlessly from idle to great over-rev. I really really like it! It's like having a TPI bike without all the weight and complexity. My guess would be that you could swap pipe/silencer and pull the flywheel weight and end up with a totally different bike. But, i'll let the videos speak for themselves, let me know if you have any other questions - Install video - ruclips.net/video/svibz6BUmGo/видео.html + Ride/Review Video ruclips.net/video/egoM0lnsaSg/видео.html
Can you put lights and blinkers on the bike from the factory.
I’m actually doing a build on this right now to make it street legal. It’s not super simple. It needs a new stator, and if you want to run LED headlights you need a small battery. So sadly no, not a direct bolt on like a WR
55;1 is extremely lean not rich right? most people running 32,34,36 to 1 on this bike....right?
It’s less oil, but proportionally more fuel... So it’s actually richer in terms of air fuel ratio. I was running 55:1 and jetting to that because I was running Motorex synth oil in this bike. I found I liked maxima K2 at 40:1 the most. There are a lot of great videos out there that explain oil mixture ratio and how that affects Air-fuel ratio. I think dirt bike channels actually sums it up pretty well - ruclips.net/video/LIDV1PDr6L0/видео.html
Are the 250X metal clutch plates steel or aluminum?
Steel, I just swapped it for an EBC heavy duty clutch and like that much more... But I do have the Magura hydraulic clutch on there too.
Hope you oiled that air filter!
Bike was brand new in this video. The factory air filter oil that is pretty close to clear on this pup. I run twin air oil on all my filters so they turn nice and green 👍🏻👍🏻
I bought a new 1988 Honda CR250 and assumed the filter was oiled, it was not. So when I cleaned the filter for the first time, gobs of sand was in the intake boot. Stick my finger in there, and pulled out a lot of sand. I did not take the top end apart because it was running great, just took apart the intake and cleaned it up. When I changed the piston/ring in the winter time, of course the soft piston had quite a few scratches on it, but the cylinder plating (Nikasil for the first time in 1988) was untouched. I ran that bike and raced it for 5 summers, replacing the piston and rings every winter and replaced the bottom end bearings after year 3. Still fast as heck (I ported it too), when I sold it, but the plating was wearing a bit thin by that time.
55 to 1?! Isn’t that super lean for normal riding conditions??
It all depends on the spec of the oil. KTMs run 60:1 with that motorex 2T oil.
@@SourceADV I promise you, with 32:1 and that same oil,--your rings will last longer. If you keep track of your hours, half the test is already done. Measure the ring end gap, and change the mix for the same amount of time with a new set of rings.
@EarthSurferUSA makes sense, but all the KtM’s including the SX 2T bikes run 60:1 with that same oil. From my understanding it has more to do with the oil itself than the mixture as to what they can be run at. Cheers
Question for ya.. Did you find that where the stock pipe go's into the motor , that the pipe was really close to the frame. Any idea why it's so close ? Is the new pipe fit the same way ?
Yeah dude. It’s a bummer. I’ve actually had to replace two pipes already not from big dents but from bends (with the carbon pipe guard) that make the pipe touch the frame. It’s just a design flaw for the YZ’s. They definitely built with MX in mind originally, not woods riding. I keep a spare pipe on hand just in case
@@SourceADV ok thanks
I don't like the blue rims on the New bikes. Wish they'd just do black.
Agreed, like the black more, but in person the blue is nice. It grows on you
want to sell that stock pipe ?
Already gone, sorry!
99
bottles of beer on the wall?
The welding on that frame work looks terrible!
Hahah! It does look really bad in this video, I think it’s the wide angle lens making it look more bulbous and weird.
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Yupppp
Get yourself an electron carburetor never jet again..
I went SmartCarb and love it.