Stock, no none on the rear end. However, aftermarket control arms is probably the most common, maybe a driveshaft ujoint, or aftermarket sway bar links.
Tough one, really depends on what you are looking for. Major difference is in the suspension, YJ is leaf sprung, TJ is coil spring suspension. Typically this means the TJ rides better, and flexes better. This isn't always the case though, the red TJ in this video actually rides terrible due to the cheap suspension lift that was used. The YJ initially had that carbureted 4.2, which is a great engine but can have some issues with the carburetor, 91 and later were fuel injected 4.0s. The TJ used the injected 4.0 for all years. I would advise avoiding the 4cyl 2.5L in either unless that is all you can find. If your not worried about comfort or how it rides I would focus more on condition, rust is a big issue with both TJ & YJs, both in the body and frame. If you are worried about ride or comfort the TJ is typically better.
I had a 91 YJ and now have a 99 TJ. Sure, the coils make a smoother ride but I prefer the YJ. TJ has a more updated dash and consol, too. The frame of the TJ has more rust. It seemed the YJ rusted mostly at the rear shackles.
@@dannyhdz799 If your u-joint doesn't have a grease zerk (aka grease nipple, or as you called it, a grease point), that means it's a sealed u-joint. Sealed u-joints are honestly better in really every respect. Most people don't use greaseable u-joints anymore because they're not sealed as well, which means they don't do as good of a job keeping out grime and water, and that's why you have to grease them every time you expose them to dirt or moisture (as soon as you get home) to purge the contaminates out, otherwise they fail much faster. It's also quite a pain in the a** to reach the zerks on u-joints a lot of the time, so greasing them is a real hassle. Compare that to the sealed u-joints which come pre-greased, and they keep all the grime and water out easily, so they never need to be greased for the lifetime of the u-joint (which is a very, very long time under most circumstances). They're also stronger, because greaseable u-joints sacrifice a little bit of metal due to the channels carved out on the inside to allow the grease that's added to flow throughout the joint. Sealed u-joints don't have those channels, they're just solid, making them stronger. And lastly, the greasable u-joints have to more loosely sealed because they have to create an exit point for grease and contaminates to purge/escape when you pump fresh grease in. Those purge points (and the grease zerk itself) also help allow the contaminates into the joint in the first place.
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Are there any grease ports on the rear end?
Stock, no none on the rear end. However, aftermarket control arms is probably the most common, maybe a driveshaft ujoint, or aftermarket sway bar links.
Hey bro do you think the tj or the yj is better
Tough one, really depends on what you are looking for. Major difference is in the suspension, YJ is leaf sprung, TJ is coil spring suspension. Typically this means the TJ rides better, and flexes better. This isn't always the case though, the red TJ in this video actually rides terrible due to the cheap suspension lift that was used. The YJ initially had that carbureted 4.2, which is a great engine but can have some issues with the carburetor, 91 and later were fuel injected 4.0s. The TJ used the injected 4.0 for all years. I would advise avoiding the 4cyl 2.5L in either unless that is all you can find. If your not worried about comfort or how it rides I would focus more on condition, rust is a big issue with both TJ & YJs, both in the body and frame. If you are worried about ride or comfort the TJ is typically better.
I had a 91 YJ and now have a 99 TJ. Sure, the coils make a smoother ride but I prefer the YJ. TJ has a more updated dash and consol, too. The frame of the TJ has more rust. It seemed the YJ rusted mostly at the rear shackles.
My u joint doesn’t have a grease point to grease it ? How would I go about greasing my u joint ?
@@dannyhdz799 If your u-joint doesn't have a grease zerk (aka grease nipple, or as you called it, a grease point), that means it's a sealed u-joint. Sealed u-joints are honestly better in really every respect. Most people don't use greaseable u-joints anymore because they're not sealed as well, which means they don't do as good of a job keeping out grime and water, and that's why you have to grease them every time you expose them to dirt or moisture (as soon as you get home) to purge the contaminates out, otherwise they fail much faster. It's also quite a pain in the a** to reach the zerks on u-joints a lot of the time, so greasing them is a real hassle.
Compare that to the sealed u-joints which come pre-greased, and they keep all the grime and water out easily, so they never need to be greased for the lifetime of the u-joint (which is a very, very long time under most circumstances). They're also stronger, because greaseable u-joints sacrifice a little bit of metal due to the channels carved out on the inside to allow the grease that's added to flow throughout the joint. Sealed u-joints don't have those channels, they're just solid, making them stronger. And lastly, the greasable u-joints have to more loosely sealed because they have to create an exit point for grease and contaminates to purge/escape when you pump fresh grease in. Those purge points (and the grease zerk itself) also help allow the contaminates into the joint in the first place.