Ford 8.8 VS Ford 9", which axle is better?
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- In this video we discuss which axle should you build for your project. I have built and wheeled both for many years and I prefer the 9", based on aftermarket support, ease of setup and strength. A couple things I didn't mention is the 8.8 stock width is 59.625 with the super 88 kit adding about 1" per side giving you a total width of 61.625. The 9" from the bronco for Ford F150 width is 65" so it will give you a wider stance by almost 3 1/2" inches. Also another cost to the 9", if you want to upgrade the pinion support to the Daytona large bearing, it will cost you between $100-$200 depending on what support you purchase. Hope this video helps and happy new year!
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The secret to the nine inch is the extra bearing on the pinion greatly enhancing the pinion strength by supporting it on both ends
It’s a no brainer
Plus probably easier to change in a hurry vs having all those special tools if u break something gear wise just the already built 3rd member
Some 9 inches were factory disc brakes. Mid late 70s full size ford car, and the Lincoln Versailles was disc. The Versailles was a pretty narrow rear end, pretty close to a ranger or explorer and was 5 x 4.5. 9 inches also take more power to turn vs the 8.8
the thing to do it what i did on my Fox mustang. cut the ends off the 8.8 and welded on 69-70 ford Torino big bearing 9" housing ends, get 35 spline axles, and put on a cost effective wilwood 9" disc brake kit and call it a day, Jeep guys can learn alot from the Fox mustang guys, theyve done it all with the 8.8 rear 2 decades ago. dont be afraid to go poking around on the ford racing forums and FB groups, i ran 1,300 HP through that rear and never once had a failure ever and that was street driving
acing it in addition to racing at the track
Great video. Thanks for all the info
Great run down and comparison of the 8.8 to 9” Kelly!
Stoked to see real world numbers and feedback.
Thanks for this video! You just absolutely made my mind up to go 9 inch. Always look forward to your review videos!! But can't wait to see more of that automatic trans out on the trail! Hope you had a great holiday!!
Great comparison video. I’m very happy with my 8.8 but now that I know the cost very similar I can see a 9” on a future build. Always appreciate the solid knowledge provided in your videos! Happy New Year!
i did an 8.8 the first build and it was awesome, never an issue. now I have a dana 60 beefed up from 30 to 35 spline. I miss the ground clearance on the 8.8 haha. i drag this 60 on everything
Good to know, I’ve heard a few people say that. Thanks!
That was a great video, I searched that topic on RUclips and could not find a good video, I'm glad you covered it
Thanks, glad I could help👍🏻
Great information bro!
I love your break downs , like the tire sizes for gears that you did awhile back . I would really like your take on wms for different axles you can run together front and rear . Srw-drw . An so on
Just getting ready to build a 8.8 for my XJ..😁👍👍
Great video bud. Crazy to see those axle shafts side by side. I went for the ford 8.8 for my mustang build for the disc brakes. I don't think that thing will need anything more than the 31 spline. However when I start looking into doing the axle swap for the Jeep, I'm definitely going to want to step up to 35 spline axles! Thats some great info there!
Thanks for the video!
Currently building a 9” with Detroit full spool and weld on disc kit, it has been a nightmare trying to find aftermarket 31 spline shafts for some reason but I finally found a way to make mine work and this helped a bit on decided to keep mine before swapping it for an 8.8 i got coming out of a buddies jeep on account of him doing a ton swap 🤘🏻
One of the best explanations on YT - thanks
Thanks 👊🏻
Overall good video. I have an 8.8 with an Artek truss under my TJ currently. Working on 9” / D44 front from a 79 Bronco. Having the front axle retubed in the next couple of weeks.
Really great info. I'm an 8.8 guy and stuck on it (95 YJ, 4.10, 3 speed auto, 35 inch tires, spring over lift). But as many folks state below, depending on your area you may not find a great deal on a 9 inch. But your info really helps those who are trying to compare and figure out the best option. I'd also like to add, that another budget thing to think about would be not going the super 88 route and keeping stock axles and or just getting the chrome molly in standard configuration. This allows you to keep your stock shafts as spares in case anything goes wrong. I'm not sure why so many people are hung up on C-clip this, that, and the other. Yes there's an advantage of being able to unbolt that axle and perform a swap, however if you break and axle and pull the broken piece out, then you're still stuck having to open up the pumpkin to push the smaller broken piece out. That said, if you're going to be there anyway, why not just keep the standard configuration as I mentioned above and just swap the axle and go. (That comes from jeepers with way more experience than me. lol.) I've bounced my 35's pretty hard and have yet to break the stock 31 spline shafts in mine. Not to say they can't be broken, just saying it's not something for anyone to worry about like the D35-C axles that came stock. Great info.
my favorite things about a ford 8.8 are same lug pattern as stock front axle, I can pick them up for $80, almost same width as front axle and disk brakes
Good luck finding a 9 inch in my area for less than $700. I have an 8.8 sitting in my shed that I picked up at local pick a part for $100. It's complete rotor to rotor. If like to have a 9 inch but for the money it would cost I could build a 14 bolt for less.
I can vouch for the 9”. I broke the pinyon bearing support cast inside the drop out section, and didn’t even know it. Only found it when re-gearing., replaced with strange nodular and Daytona big bearing pinyon housing.
Moser actually makes a 35 spline axle/spool combo for those who have already built an 8.8 and want to go bigger. It comes with a spool, c clip eliminators, and 35 spline axles for $740. Saves about $200 over the original quote and gets you a similar strength package as the Ford 9. The Ford 9 is a better axle without a doubt but I do think the 8.8 can be built very close and for a lot less especially if you already have it under your Jeep and want to go to a bigger tire.
8.8. For the VSS. For speedo and ABS function for street driven trial RIG.
I've got a mostly stock expo 8.8 with a lunchbox locker and I've dogged on it with 37s and no issues
I picked up a 9” out of full-size Bronco for $50. Pretty much all I am keeping is the housing, everything else is getting upgraded. True Hi9 third member.
Nice, $50 is a great deal.
Ford Crown Vic also had an 8.8, around 65" flange to flange and 06 and up have 31 spline axles. Nice big disc's and they made a ton of them. Look for the cop car ones, most had trac loc and 3.55 gears.
Had a lot of bent axle tubes on them come into the shop. From cops hitting curbs at 60 mph. Thanks to hitting the bump stops. Something has to give. You couldn’t even see the bends. Figured it out when it came back with bad axle bearings for a second time after a couple thousand miles. Point is you are rolling the dice.
Stock for stock ive destroyed way more 9inch rears than 8.8. Worst part of 8.8 is the spinning the axle tubes and the C-Clips which i never had an issue with in my fullsize bronco. If you have Disk brakes the C-clips arent as big of an issue you can still limp it home with a broken axle or spiders. As far as aftermarket 9inch has much beefier stuff available than 8.8 and can be built much stronger.
My rear axle on my 95 bronco has the axle shafts coming out if I choose to rebuild this is the route I'm going its really gonna beef it up and able to run 37 inch tires for some trails up in big bear thanks a lot for your videos
I have seen many broken Traction Lok differentials over the years. The clutch pack cover is weak. The early clutch pack covers were horrible, the D2's were a definite improvement, but still broke. This part should have been forged steel, not cast, and they would have held up much better. Nodular case and Daytona pinion bearing third members generally held up well, just go with a Detroit Locker instead of the Traction Lok. The Daytona bearing retainer used a solid spacer, not a crush sleeve. The strongest Daytona bearing retainers came in Ford 1/2 ton trucks ('74-'76). These have a built in pinion snubber that adds extra strength. The first time I saw one I thought it was a unit someone had pulled out of a Gran Torino (or equivalent) and put in the truck. Upon further inspection I realized it was a Daytona. It had a D20W number instead of a D2AE number. I have pulled so many broken Traction Loks that I starting calling them Cracktion Loks. Guys I knew back in the day used to run a couple of tack welds on the axle bearing retainer to keep them from coming off and spitting out the axle from the housing. I am referring to OEM Ford parts, not aftermarket parts.
I had an 8.8 to start with and it’s a great axle, but I definitely like the 9” I have now better. Another great option for the 9” is to shave the bottom for more ground clearance. I have more clearance under the 9” than my front Dana 44.
@@ryan-qz5xb I do all the work myself. The main thing is to do your research. Most recent upgrade was 3 linking the front and 4 linking the rear. Rides so much better!
Years ago I started thinking and looking for a 8.8 w disk brakes for my XJ but lucked out with a factory D 44 out of a XJ when I was buying a axle for spare shafts. I got it ready to go with correct gears at the time. I just had to change my order for carrier, and gears (4:56) a Ford 9 would have been less of a PTA to set up but no complaints with it in 20 years. Going to move them over to another XJ but going to try to get a front D 44 now just need to find a old Ford one or SJ.
oh also yeah I have crush sleeve eliminator ( spacer kit )... with all mentioned including moroso wheel studs and tool ( I did have to enlarge my holes on the axle ) I think it came to around 2k .. pretty crazy actually thats like 500 more than my fully built AOD
8.8 has better pinion angle but i like the 9 inch. Setup like a 14 bolt without lugging the whole axle out to regear.
Yes. I threw a disc brake 31 spline 8.8 under my ranger with a lunchbox locker with 4.56 gears, its on 33s and it's perfect.
Hell yea🤟🏻
@@MuddyBeards4X4 My profile pic is my truck that the axle is in. I'm up in Manitoba Canada currently installing a 4 inch lift and built my own radius arm extensions. Found your channel through Nate. Wanna get out to BC wheeling next summer with a couple friends. Dunno if that'll happen. This was my dad's old truck. I started driving it in May 2016 just before I graduated high school with 324000 kms, it now has 394000 kms. Unfortunately he thinks it came from Ontario where they use a lot of salt, so the frame has kinda been eaten away as I found out when changing a front coil bucket that was rusted out. So in the next couple years I'll be looking for a newer (2005-2011) ranger so I can just swap the rear axle and tent and keep some parts from this one as spares. It should still have some life left in it for a while though. ✌️
I want to swap the rear ended out of the zj to 8.8 but use it as both a daily and off-road road
Fair enough but don't forget you can run the ford Torino axel ends and for the 9" and run the 8.8 disc brakes. I went that route with my 9" and couldn't have been happier. My build was about $1,000 for the housing that came with Torino ends, 31 spline axles and bearing, $550 for master bearing kit with 3.70 gears Yukon limited slip (bagged Tacoma) $75 for Daytona pinion upgrade and $60 for crush sleeve Eliminator kit. I did have a old 8.8 laying around to steal the disc brakes set up from but if you was to factor dropping the Yukon limited slip for a spool even buying the 8.8 just for brakes is a wayyyyyyy better way to go in my opinion but good video
If your going to run a spool you can do 35 spline axles for the 8.8
Put Torino style 9 inch ends on that 8.8 and you got a great axle.
I definitely like both these Axles and been running an 8.8 for many years. Most my buddies went with the 9in. Although they are similar in strength and decent budget wise to build I find a few annoying problems with the 9in. 1- servicing is a pain if you don't weld on a drain plug
2- while servicing a conventional style diff I really like to inspect everything such as pinion teeth and ring gear teeth, check for loose components and make sure backlash isn't getting loose.
3- the stock housing on a 9in will get dents from rocks all over it, also if you hit the extremely low pinion it will start leaking at the bottom of the 3rd member.
Like I said I don't hate the 9in buy its just a few things I've found that get annoying after being around them for the last few years.
All great points and issues I have with it as well. I have fixed some of them, armoring the housing, but still a pain to inspect and drain the oil.
🤣
Ford 10.5" Sterling 1 tons, also has factory disc brakes which are critical for winter driving. Drums freeze up.
Tell you right now, engineers everywhere are shaking their heads. You might as well pull axles out of a cat 980 loader, because they will be the strongest. there is a balance between strength and weight, and unless you've personally broken a built 8.8, everything bigger is excessive weight which makes for worse fuel economy and rougher ride.
Would love to know someone in NJ that could do this to my LJ.
They are both great but also the ford 9.75 that's on a million f150s over last 20years is basically a dana 60. Who doesn't love the d60 but the one advantage the 8.8 has over the other 2 is the horsepower retention or parasitic drag. It doesn't matter if you got 250 hp or 2500 hp it takes over double the horsepower to turn a 9 inch or a d60 its like over 5% loss for them vs 8.8 at only 2% because how the 9s ring and pinion are so offset and d60s are almost 10 inches
How about the 9.3 inch big bearing 57 Oldsmobile 3rd. Member . Stronger than all of them.
So what are our options for front axles? To match the 8.8 or 9” rear ?
Is there a super 88 build video? Throwing an F150 8.8 in the danger ranger, would love to see it! Thanks!
I built mine way before I had a RUclips channel, so I unfortunately do not have one.
I have 35 spline chrome Molly's in my 8.8 with a OX locker c clip eliminated
Which 35 spline kit did you use? Mine is out of an explorer 31sp disc brake and I’m not sure which 35sp setup works
@@JoePublicWorld east coast gear love those guys they do great work and have reasonable prices.
A backbone is a must for a 9" if your going to wheel it hard. The housings bend and pop the pinion out. Seen it a few times. A guy is climbing a ledge but can't make it, slides backwards. Comes down hard under throttle. The housing bends and BANG. The driveshaft is dangling with half the center section still attached. Nodular or not.
Jesus dude! If that happened they were beating the hell out of it. Needed to go with bigger axles than either of these for that.
@@AlphanumericCharacters I wouldn't say any of them were beating them. It's just these housings bend.
So… I am a noob when it comes to these ford rear ends. I have a 93 centurion built on the f-150, it has a 8.8 underit. I have a Dana 44 up front, both being geared at 3.55. I have been leaning on just keeping it and building it. I realize it being such a big vehicle it will never really be going to crazy off road, but I am trying to build an “overland” style rig for me and my family. I know there are a lot of variables I am leaving out but for what I gather in this video is the 8.8 can be good, if you don’t get to crazy? For a build where I just plan to run 35’s and do mild off road? I want to switch my gearing to 4.10’s, and run a Yukon LSD. But again I am very new to this and would love to hear your thoughts/feedback.
It would have been cool if Ford did a third member setup on the 8.8 too
If you break the axle in a disc brake 8.8 the rotor/caliper will hold for a while...
99 Jeep XJ, currently stock (HPd30/8.25). My plan is to run 35s preferably 37s, with aftermarket (JCR) front and rear bumper with tire carrier, full frame stiffeners, rock sliders, roof rack, possibly additional body armor. With all that added weight, along with gear within the Jeep, what would be more benefical 44/9 or 60/10.25? If i happen to win the lottery, I would also like to do a diesel swap too.
You forgot to list E-150 which has the WIDEST axle. my Driver side axle shaft I believe is like 33". I couldn't find a C-clip eliminator kit that works with the vans axle hubs ( yukon had a full kit at one point but including axles so pretty expensive).. so next best thing I just got a rear disc brake kit so that in the event of an emergency the caliper could hold a wheel in at least safe enough to come to a stop. I have chromoly Nitro axles. The thing about C clips is rarely does it break at that point so I've read anyway.. but I have yukon duratrac posi, 3.73s and I have an upper truss and bridge to keep the tubes from spinning as well as a girdle style diff cover. I may also weld some caltrac style bars in place of ladder bars... but this is more for a street application with 500+ hp hoping it will hold up.
What website did you use in this video? I want order my parts on there
All the TJ forums are hating in the 8.8 axle, and say that super 35 is a better option. Can you do a pro and cons vs the dana 44?
Does anyone know why there’s not truss conversion kits for the 9” ?
Obviously new to the off road world
Only thing i hate about the 9in is the low ass pinion even tho u can get pinion protection i like the drive line angle of a 8.8. In my opinion it goes 8.8 to tons a shaved 10.5 is my next stop
I just rebuilt mine and I have an slow reverse , can be a bad band adjusment??
How can I tell between Dana 50 and 60?
I found a 2001 f250 with a good deal but idk if it’s a 60?
Also why is the 2005+ axle better than the older models?
I have two 8.8 high pinion currie axles with no issues at all, kind of a hybrid with a drop out and 9 inch carriers.
Sounds like a sweet setup👊🏻
Sure the 9 inch from bronco is better, but where do you actually find one? cant find a single one in sweden and cant find any on ebay..
What axle would you recommend for a jeep wj with 33 inch tires?
America 🇺🇸
😎👍
Can I use 8.8 on front axle ?
Most 8.8 are off set too
But if you can weld I'd do a junk yard 9
Buy a fab housing center and buy a 10.25 or 14 bolt cut the axle tubes slide them in or a full 9 in and have a machinist turn down spindles
Only the rangers are offset, the rest axles are the same length and interchangeable from side to side.
I am in the process of building an 8.8 for my TJ right now, it is sitting on my axle cradle now ready for truss/brackets etc welding. I plan to skip the whole C clip eliminator deal and replace the axle ends with 9 inch big bearing ends along with the matching chrome shafts. I am going with 35s maybeeee 37 some day in the future. Everything I have read is the 8.8 is so close in strength it's negligible. Do you have any specs on how much stronger a 9 inch is (Gears/carrier) than an 8.8? Another factor the 9inch wins is weld-ability, welding on a 9 inch is easy to do since it is not a cast piece. So adding suspension brackets, a truss etc. is much more straight forward, simpler, cheaper, stronger,,, Explorer disc brakes can be made to work on a 9 inch also.
Dis you get the 32RH trans working yet?
I have a 2003 ranger mud truck with the ford 8.8 and all i have to say is the c-clip eliminator should have just been standard equipment. Why would you skip it lol
@@FordRangerClassics The C clip "eliminators" are not as good as the OEM Ford 9" big bearings that are pressed onto the axle with a retainer ring. They are Set 20 bearings, bigger than the eliminator bearings, the shafts are bigger dia at the bearing and also do not have the tendency of leaking like the eliminators do. The 9 inch ends require cutting the 8.8 ends off and then welding the 9 inch ends back in their place. The other benefit to the 9 inch ends is ease of finding parts, the bearings are pretty much available at any parts store in any town.
so my zj is getting trussed ford 8.8 with 4 link and im on 33s for now... 35s maybe later, 35s are as big as this jeep will ever go since my xj is going big with 37s or 40s. So for 33s would you still recommend super 88 kit
Depends on how you drive, and how much off-roading you do. Probably not necessary for 33’s.
👍
Ford 9in because I like a big rear end 🤣🤣
Curious about the crush sleeve comment, is it the install that you dislike or that they loosen up while wheeling
Mostly the install, if I had the special tools or made one it would be easier, but spacers are soo much easier.
It’s because the pinion can come loose i had it happen to me because I’m running 400hp ls.
if my 8.8 gives up then its time for a full floater. Not to mention 9 inches are getting next to impossible to find in my area and 8.8s are free or close to it.
It definitely depends on your location. Luckily around here both are readily available. The 9” is a little tougher to find than the 8.8 for sure, but they are out there.
The 9” is hard to find, but I can’t even find an 8.8 anymore. They used to be everywhere super cheap, but I haven’t even seen one for sale locally in over a year
If it was your money you'd buy the 9 inch? Good to know.
I'm not in the market. But good to know.
Are you using a narrowed housing? The axles you spec are 31.25” and full width 9” axles are 32”. ECGS doesn’t show anything wider than that in their 2 options. I’m having a fit trying to find axle shafts for mine. 1541h shafts are readily available but chromos are either a fortune or don’t spec out the right length.
All stock, 35 spline Yukon axle shafts.
Unless you are changing gears fairly often is the drop out 3rd member really a consideration?
I would rather just build a 14 bolt rear and 60 front and be done with it forever. I have enough motor that the weight isn't a big concern.
Dats the problem I’m running into have a Cammed 5.3 in my tj with 8.8 and a dana 44 on 37s I want 1 tons axles but undecided on what I want to do.
14 bolt doesn’t have the ground clearance of a 9 inch. Even with a shave kit.
@@tstrenuous10 A 9" won't take the beating a 14 bolt will support even bigger tires more than making up for the what 2-3" you might gain with the 9"?
@@OldGriz708 bullshit. 35 spline chromoly shaft 1.6” diameter isn’t going to know if it’s a Ford or a Toyota. It’s going to know yield strength. Keep telling yourself a 14 bolt is the greatest thing since sliced bread once you shave it to stop hanging up everywhere.
How do you feel about using a high 9 inch for the front axle ?
I definitely would love to build one for sure, very expensive though like anything these days
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I have a 1977 CJ-5, so I'm considering a high pinion for front and back, mostly because of the short rear driveshaft. I know it is going to be stupid expensive, but for me a high pinion 9 inch would be the ultimate. Your videos are great.
Can you add disc brake to ford 9 inch
Yes, I have disk brakes and made a video on how to do it. I think 2019
@@MuddyBeards4X4 thank you for the response. I have another question if you will indulge me. My 1999 XJ currently has Dana 35 and I have ABS and still drive it on the street. What is the effect of axle change on the ABS. Is there an option to maintain the sensor and tone ring?
what would you recommend for a front axle with the 8.8 w/ super 88 kit arb locker etc. i have a built dana30 hp for it but would like to go to a dana44 hp front. which dana44 would be close enough width wise and bolt pattern wise to the 8.8. even if i have to throw some spacers on the rear.
An option for the 8.8 is to run 2 driver side axle shafts and lengthen the passenger tube. Super easy and local racing shops can do it cheap also
there isnt a magic answer to that, the hp44s are pretty much limited to 70's fords if you want driver drop. gm stuff is passenger drop, wagoneer/j trucks are low pinion. ford had a few varieties in the 70s. cast wedge, welded wedge, (both 5 lug) or the beefier 8 lug version like I have. its a wide momma.
as someone who has done it twice, just go straight to a dana 60 trust me. be that a super duty or an older kingpin
Depends on your goals, a well build Dana 30 can handle way more than you think. I ran 36’s on mine and had no issues. Hp 44’s are very tough to find and expensive. My hp 44 I narrowed to the same width as a waggy 44 so I could run shafts off the shelf and it was similar width as the super 88. But now with the 9” I have to run 1.5” wheel spacers so I regret narrowing it.
513 or 456 ???
Both are great but when you say 9” guys presume your racing or have over 700hp under the hood
Say super again. Jeez man is is everything super
Your chance of breaking a stock 9" center section over a nodular one is almost zero if you upgrade to a Daytona pinion support.
build something with portals!!!!!!!!
That would be sweet but I don’t have that kinda money, lol.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 but then you would have THE baddest jeep on the trail. not that yous is a slouch already!!!!!!!!!!
I also have the not being able to talk almost every day
Toyota copied Ford on axles . Just like Toyota copied jeep and how the FJ looks like a jeep all the way to fold down windshield . Toyota copied the inline 6 from GM . Toyota copied the style of the mustang in the late 60s for the celica……
The 2005-14 mustang gt/gt500 had a 31 spline 8.8 along with the f150's and broncos from the 80's and 90's. Explorer axle is no better than these
Depends on which one you get. Explorer is better because of the axle width, bolt pattern and disk brakes.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 2005-2014 is posi trac with disc brakes. But yes the width is an issue and bolt pattern. Ive made 700hp with a stock 07 Gt500 rear axle 3:31's.
Also the early 8.8s had the guts of the left over 7.5s. Thats a fact Jack.
What is the point of rock crawling in Jeeps?
It looks bumpy, uncomfortable and a lot of work for very little travel I don’t get it
Hmmm, no, you nailed it.
Rock crawling is just super, like, absolutely stupid hard on vehicles. Which is why it's the rock crawlers all talking casually about how they put 42 inch tires and the axles from some sort of commercial mining vehicle in their ... half-ton Wranglers. It's kind of silly, but , hey ... I don't have to get it, it's not like they'd do something more productive with their money if they didn't spend it bomb-proofing their Jeep. Let them have their fun.
"I need the strength, factory is too weak!" Well, no... what you need to do is stop tripling the sprung weight on your axles with giant tires and then doubly stop spinning the piss out of them while you bounce awkwardly over things randomly losing and gaining traction - the amount of stress that puts on drive-line components is just mental. But apparently you ... have to do that? When crawling? Because reasons?
I mean, if I was writing a book on "How to break your Jeep on purpose" that would be the entire first chapter "Well, first off you want to add as much sprung weight as possible. Got it? Great, now let's talk shock load and the joy that is _metal fatigue_" Interestingly enough, Chapter 2 would be "Adding as much weight as possible to the roof and outside the front and rear axles to really maximize how badly you upset the stability of your machine." ... and those guys love doing that stuff too.
But they have managed to get past "Ooooo, puddle! Must wallow in filth" that the mudder guys like occupying their time with.
Like I said, just smile and nod.
Lmao best comment ever @@padrescout
Ive heard diehardyoterbois claiming the yoter 8” is stronger than a d60😆
Really? That's pretty funny. The Toyota 8" is alright but should not be used on a full size truck. A Tundra rear end is pretty damn beefy though. They have a 10.5" ring gear.
@@geoffmooregm
These dumbass yoterbois based their data off of their deep feelings instead of factual evidence. If only I had that shit recorded on vid😆. True that the tandra rear end is a 10.5 but everything else is weak. Why waste money on that when u can get a full floater 1 ton. With a shitload of aftermarket support. Nobody thats serious about building a rock rig cares for a tandra rear end. Who else on the trail gonna have spare parts u can barrow….nobody. Even the yoterbois in the heavily built rigs steer clear of that tandra rear😆
you will never have trouble with either a 8.8 or a p.o.s! 9 as long as you continue driving around with your 250 H.P. ford but as soon as anyone puts 500+ h.p. all you end up with is the junk you started with I'm talking about nodular carriers p.o.j. = PIECE OF JUNK !!!!!! (AFTER CRACKING 3 N CASES I ONLY USE DANA 60'S OR 8.750'S
u like spending money
Hey! driving around until you found a approach that didn't require making your Jeeps drive-train out of Wolverine's bones would be boring and being bored is for the poors.