Excellent upgrade. When you have the back cover off, it's really easy to replace the clutch and steel plates in the limited slip differential. It's a good thing to do on a vehicle with 160k miles.
A little bit of surface rust doesn't hurt the rotors at all. As long as the thickness is there they are good. As for them sticking to the hubs you just run a little bit of Emery cloth in the hole and put a little bit of anti-seize on there. You'll be able to slip the rotors on and off no problem after that.
Great vid! Enjoyed the watch. One note, axel center sections are deliberately offset to keep the universal joints from always running in the same spot. The offset helps distribute the wear. It also cuts down on cyclic driveline vibration.
This is a great walkthrough! I'm about to swap this exact rear end into my Duster. The explorer 8.8 is a low dollar winner. They are starting to get more rare though.
Absolutely. It’s funny you mention that, I just swapped one into my ‘70 Challenger after blowing the bearing caps off my 8 3/4. So far the 8.8 has been great!
Toed in spring perches are for winners. Nice job my brother. I've got a 200-6 1966 'stang i'm really interested in doing this same drivetrain swap, you have done all the sorting out and i'm stoked for your upgrades. That 'stang is gonna buck--yippy kai yea mofo's, Lol
Top notch content, I'm doing a very similar swap with the drivetrain out of a 98 Explorer into a 67 Mustang. If anything, I'd say the pinion angle would be most important at cruising but that's cause I really hate vibration when driving.
Thanks, and that's a solid point. I guess I'd rather have zero vibration at cruise and maybe slight vibration at full beans versus the other way around.
I continue to be impressed with your build, nothing fancy but PROVEN mods that work and work well. I also got the same rear end for my car but I did shorten one side to even it up. I still have to set my pinion angle and seeing you do yours has answered a few lingering questions I had. I am taking a break to enjoy Christmas but right after, I will be working on my first video about my 67 fastback. Congrats friend, I look forward to your shake down drives on your car.
Thank you sir, I gotta say I’m very happy with how that 8.8 fit right into the Mustang. Have a good Christmas and I’m looking forward to that first episode in your ‘67 👍
Looks good. On leaf spring cars the front mounting points of the leaf springs are narrower than the rear to keep the axle centered in the car, think of it like a triangulated four link rear suspension. You might want to consider cal trac bars to keep the leaf springs from wrapping up, it was real bad on my buddies 68 mustang before installing cal tracs
Oh interesting didn't know that about the leaf springs. Good call on the CalTracs, I actually put a pair on my Challenger after that GoPro test and it helped lot on mine too.
8.8" rear ends also came with 28 spline axles so whoever is reading this don't just assume because you have an 8.8 that it has 31 spline axles. A good way to tell real quick is to measure the tube, 3" has 28 spline 3.25" has 31 spline.....I think, it's been awhile! Just go with a 9"!
Awesome video! Quick question: when putting on the leaf spring perches, which hole did you align with the leaf spring nipple and did it lay flat with the leaf spring? Thanks!
Thanks! I used the center hole on the perch, they were almost flat but there was a slight gap due to the perches being so long. They flattened out when I tightened down the u-bolts.
In general I always mount my rear ends with 3 deg down. I would say that for normal street driving the offset probably wont be an huge issue but if you are going to beat on it it very well might become an issue as the rear U joint is going to be trying to flex in 2 directions simultaneously.
I may be wrong, but it’s my understanding it doesn’t matter which direction (or directions) a driveshaft angles as long as it’s equal on both ends? As long as the angle isn’t excessive or the ujoints aren’t out of phase of course. The way I see it there shouldn’t be any significant extra stress on the ujoint if it is angled in two directions instead of one.
Great video. A lot of us consider doing this. Did ya add a front right side torque box to the uni-body chassis? Or was it already there? Not hard to add it if it is missing. Or. Did 1968 coupes automatically get both left and right forward torque boxes on a in line six coupe uni-bodies?
@@noboltsleftbehind your good I looked it up. my early 1967 six did not get a right hand torque box at the factory. the late 1967’s started to, in 1968 they all got right and left torque boxes. I am putting one in ours. : )
I did the same thing but I cut the driver axle tube 3 inches to center it up like the original and used a passenger axle
Excellent upgrade.
When you have the back cover off, it's really easy to replace the clutch and steel plates in the limited slip differential. It's a good thing to do on a vehicle with 160k miles.
A little bit of surface rust doesn't hurt the rotors at all. As long as the thickness is there they are good. As for them sticking to the hubs you just run a little bit of Emery cloth in the hole and put a little bit of anti-seize on there. You'll be able to slip the rotors on and off no problem after that.
Great vid! Enjoyed the watch. One note, axel center sections are deliberately offset to keep the universal joints from always running in the same spot. The offset helps distribute the wear. It also cuts down on cyclic driveline vibration.
This is a great walkthrough! I'm about to swap this exact rear end into my Duster. The explorer 8.8 is a low dollar winner. They are starting to get more rare though.
Absolutely. It’s funny you mention that, I just swapped one into my ‘70 Challenger after blowing the bearing caps off my 8 3/4. So far the 8.8 has been great!
@@noboltsleftbehind good to know. I should have about 430-450hp from a 360 so it's not the craziest setup.
Toed in spring perches are for winners. Nice job my brother. I've got a 200-6 1966 'stang i'm really interested in doing this same drivetrain swap, you have done all the sorting out and i'm stoked for your upgrades. That 'stang is gonna buck--yippy kai yea mofo's, Lol
Awesome video brother! keep it up. I like how honest and true you are in the videos, keep it going
Wow, this was a really informative one. Never would have guessed you want those lines to be parallel, and the crazy amount of flex under power.
The amount of flex the leaf springs had was wild to me too, even the Xterra had a lot! That thing only has like less than 200hp.
Top notch content, I'm doing a very similar swap with the drivetrain out of a 98 Explorer into a 67 Mustang. If anything, I'd say the pinion angle would be most important at cruising but that's cause I really hate vibration when driving.
Thanks, and that's a solid point. I guess I'd rather have zero vibration at cruise and maybe slight vibration at full beans versus the other way around.
@@noboltsleftbehind Don't forget that there are shims available to adjust the angle if need be.
I continue to be impressed with your build, nothing fancy but PROVEN mods that work and work well.
I also got the same rear end for my car but I did shorten one side to even it up. I still have to set my pinion angle and seeing you do yours has answered a few lingering questions I had.
I am taking a break to enjoy Christmas but right after, I will be working on my first video about my 67 fastback.
Congrats friend, I look forward to your shake down drives on your car.
Thank you sir, I gotta say I’m very happy with how that 8.8 fit right into the Mustang. Have a good Christmas and I’m looking forward to that first episode in your ‘67 👍
Love the job you did on spring perch, very nice work
Those Magnums fit perfect.
I agree. They'd be my first choice if I didn't already have a set on my Challenger.
@@noboltsleftbehind I put them on our 67 and they really brought the car to life and made it look like the pony car it's supposed to be.
When suspension compresses 😲😲😲
Better watch out Tesla might steal that drawing for the next cybertruck
Looks good. On leaf spring cars the front mounting points of the leaf springs are narrower than the rear to keep the axle centered in the car, think of it like a triangulated four link rear suspension. You might want to consider cal trac bars to keep the leaf springs from wrapping up, it was real bad on my buddies 68 mustang before installing cal tracs
Oh interesting didn't know that about the leaf springs. Good call on the CalTracs, I actually put a pair on my Challenger after that GoPro test and it helped lot on mine too.
Cutting torches are a great investment.
I’ve always wanted one, maybe it’s that time
Explorer drivetrain stuff is great.
It's called traction -lock in ford speak . you also have 31 spline axles whereas the sn95 Mustang Gt's are 29 spline .
Trac-Lok! I knew it was something like that.
8.8" rear ends also came with 28 spline axles so whoever is reading this don't just assume because you have an 8.8 that it has 31 spline axles. A good way to tell real quick is to measure the tube, 3" has 28 spline 3.25" has 31 spline.....I think, it's been awhile! Just go with a 9"!
@@rustybritches6747
8.8 are much cheaper, lighter, and parts are easier to find... And they come with disc brakes.
Now...are we going to turbo this engine sir? A 76mm will bring this 5.0 to life. We are not above begging lol
Haha I mean, never say never…
Great work dude! Saw ya on Reddit, love finding creators like you, looking forward to all your new (and need to watch prior) content!
Thanks man, I appreciate ya!
Great videos, I put the same axel cut down in my 1963 Valiant
Oh nice! Did you trim down the driver side axle tube and use a second passenger axle? If so, how hard was it to do?
Great video. Thumbs up
Thanks!
Keep it up bubba
You should keep that tire size on the rear looks dope!
Awesome video! Quick question: when putting on the leaf spring perches, which hole did you align with the leaf spring nipple and did it lay flat with the leaf spring? Thanks!
Thanks! I used the center hole on the perch, they were almost flat but there was a slight gap due to the perches being so long. They flattened out when I tightened down the u-bolts.
In general I always mount my rear ends with 3 deg down. I would say that for normal street driving the offset probably wont be an huge issue but if you are going to beat on it it very well might become an issue as the rear U joint is going to be trying to flex in 2 directions simultaneously.
I may be wrong, but it’s my understanding it doesn’t matter which direction (or directions) a driveshaft angles as long as it’s equal on both ends? As long as the angle isn’t excessive or the ujoints aren’t out of phase of course. The way I see it there shouldn’t be any significant extra stress on the ujoint if it is angled in two directions instead of one.
@@noboltsleftbehind I think as long as it is not excessive you will probably be ok. I guess time will tell, good luck and have a Merry Xmas.
@@MH-rb7lp Same to you sir! This is all new to me, I'll make sure to report back after I put some miles on it 👍
coulda shoulda used an a code or c code v8 to start so you get all the right geometry for that beast your making... but im sure you know.
Eh, there are always better cars out there that cost more money, but I build things on a budget. Not sure how geometry plays a part in this though?
Good video thanks. I have one question did you have to modify driveshaft? And which pinion yoke did you use
Thanks, I just had to have it shortened by a couple inches. I used both ends and tube from the Ford Explorer
craigslist rebuild that was good. And lets take a pole, one wheel peel . VS,?
I always liked the term Peg Leg for an open diff
One tire fryer
I am here from Reddit
Plymouth is sure grip.
Great video. A lot of us consider doing this.
Did ya add a front right side torque box to the uni-body chassis? Or was it already there? Not hard to add it if it is missing. Or. Did 1968 coupes automatically get both left and right forward torque boxes on a in line six coupe uni-bodies?
I think it might have them already, there are square boxes where the frame meets the rockers. I’ll have to investigate a little closer.
@@noboltsleftbehind your good I looked it up. my early 1967 six did not get a right hand torque box at the factory. the late 1967’s started to, in 1968 they all got right and left torque boxes. I am putting one in ours. : )
I just got a 68 that had a 6 in it
Nice, what are your plans for it?
Probably a 302 with a fox body 5 speed 9 inch rear maverick spendels with disc. But I do have a 351w -390 and a 428. 302 makes more sense right now
Ford Explorer,, 5.0 what style engine is it 289,302, 351 is it in the winsor line
It’s a 302 Windsor
Ok I ouck up a 302 for a 66 couple weeks back rebuilt block wanted to make sure that i can fit it in the 66 witch had a stgight 6
Took block out of a 78 ford f100 custom witch was suspose to be a 351 winsor
Hey bro., where did you buy the plates that you welded on the rear end explorer??
I got those guys from Barnes 4WD.
@@noboltsleftbehindwould you mind dropping the link for them?
@@marvinlopez1664 barnes4wd.com/collections/anti-wrap-leaf-spring-perches
An 8.8 is blasphemy it should be a 9incher!LOL
Haha built 9” are big money nowadays, this one was free-ninety-nine with that Explorer donor.
8.8 is plenty strong I have mustangs running in the 9’s with 8.8’s. Also the 8.8 is more efficient less power loss.