Having multiple weld locations spread out definitely sounds like the most affective way to achieve maximum rigidity. However, it looks like they will crash into the stock E brake cable as well as the stock fuel line passing through the hole on the front drivers side. Other than completely rerouting both of those things is there a fix ?
Yes, I had issues with the stock parking brake line. "I do not have a good suggestion" but I believe that many of our customers have worked around it. I need to ask around and I encourage you to as well- Truth told, many "improvements" have a tendency to be 3 steps forward and one back.." The brake cable and lines need to be addressed. C. Maier
Just wanted to toss in some advice, please don't be offended, that is not my intention. The front plug Weld area has gaps because the nose of the vehicle is hanging or drooping because the body is being supported by the lift arms in the center of the body. By welding sub frames in place ,now the car has this problem permanently. Could be ever so slight or could be very noticeable causing fender and door alignment gap issues. Always support the vehicle at the wheels or as close as possible to, never on a 2 post lift. I understand convenience but time should be taken to insure the car is straight. The only time to not use wheel location for support is if you want to straighten out a saggy chassis as in a convertible.
Hello Jason~ Thanks for the notes... I am the first to say that I have not made an effort to perfect welding in sub frame connectors ;-) I have welded in 20-30 sets in my life but that is not pontification, I am just saying that I have for whatever that is worth.. Could just be repeating mistakes. I will add some information to the story and how this was done. The car was basically stripped (some suspension left but nothing else) and already had a partial cage in it. So there was very little if any load to pull the car out of shape. We supported the car with pallets in the center to spread the load and tires in the front. So we spread whatever load that was left. **Turns out the car was a salvage title at one point and had a new frame rail in it. So... In our case, I am not sure perfection was something worth going for. Random additional note. We noticed the floor was sectioned previously and I did what we did in our 1960 Mini.. we bonded the entire floor top and bottom with fiberglass and a high strength vinyl ester that is fire retardant. It added a significant amount of strength to the entire floor/chassis. We did not measure the change but when jacking on it to roll the car, very little if any movement. I think your tips for the average car and installation is spot on. Again, thanks for the engagement - C Maier..
Hi George, We no longer make those subframe connectors. I would suggest that you reach out to Mike Maier Inc. in Livermore CA. They make a similar subframe connectors and they will know if their subframe connectors will work on your '68 Falcon.
Charles. Love you man, but when I wasn't looking at the screen I thought it was Rob Schneider talking! Lol 😆 sorry! Nice stuff. Connectors look good! 👍🏼
Not really. The Mustang unibody is a lot more flexible than a car or truck that has a full frame that the body is attached to. Subframe connectors tie the front and rear subframes together, stop chassis flex and allow better weight transfer.
Those look great!!
Having multiple weld locations spread out definitely sounds like the most affective way to achieve maximum rigidity. However, it looks like they will crash into the stock E brake cable as well as the stock fuel line passing through the hole on the front drivers side. Other than completely rerouting both of those things is there a fix ?
Yes, I had issues with the stock parking brake line. "I do not have a good suggestion" but I believe that many of our customers have worked around it. I need to ask around and I encourage you to as well- Truth told, many "improvements" have a tendency to be 3 steps forward and one back.." The brake cable and lines need to be addressed. C. Maier
Just wanted to toss in some advice, please don't be offended, that is not my intention. The front plug Weld area has gaps because the nose of the vehicle is hanging or drooping because the body is being supported by the lift arms in the center of the body. By welding sub frames in place ,now the car has this problem permanently. Could be ever so slight or could be very noticeable causing fender and door alignment gap issues. Always support the vehicle at the wheels or as close as possible to, never on a 2 post lift. I understand convenience but time should be taken to insure the car is straight. The only time to not use wheel location for support is if you want to straighten out a saggy chassis as in a convertible.
Hello Jason~ Thanks for the notes... I am the first to say that I have not made an effort to perfect welding in sub frame connectors ;-) I have welded in 20-30 sets in my life but that is not pontification, I am just saying that I have for whatever that is worth.. Could just be repeating mistakes. I will add some information to the story and how this was done. The car was basically stripped (some suspension left but nothing else) and already had a partial cage in it. So there was very little if any load to pull the car out of shape. We supported the car with pallets in the center to spread the load and tires in the front. So we spread whatever load that was left. **Turns out the car was a salvage title at one point and had a new frame rail in it. So... In our case, I am not sure perfection was something worth going for. Random additional note. We noticed the floor was sectioned previously and I did what we did in our 1960 Mini.. we bonded the entire floor top and bottom with fiberglass and a high strength vinyl ester that is fire retardant. It added a significant amount of strength to the entire floor/chassis. We did not measure the change but when jacking on it to roll the car, very little if any movement.
I think your tips for the average car and installation is spot on. Again, thanks for the engagement - C Maier..
this is Awesome.
I wonder if they would work on My two door 68 Falcon ? I just did a new floor pan it all looks the same they Look Good 💪💪
Hi George, We no longer make those subframe connectors. I would suggest that you reach out to Mike Maier Inc. in Livermore CA.
They make a similar subframe connectors and they will know if their subframe connectors will work on your '68 Falcon.
Charles. Love you man, but when I wasn't looking at the screen I thought it was Rob Schneider talking! Lol 😆 sorry! Nice stuff. Connectors look good! 👍🏼
Don’t the torque boxes and rocker panels achieve the same result?
Not really. The Mustang unibody is a lot more flexible than a car or truck that has a full frame that the body is attached to. Subframe connectors tie the front and rear subframes together, stop chassis flex and allow better weight transfer.
looks like a sweet product but the bottom of this car looks like fiberglass??? or maybe i'm going crazy I don't know.
There was some fiberglass layered over the stock metal