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www,maierracing.com email or call in and Bill can help you~

Yes, you are correct. As the Pan Hard Rod is swinging on an arch, it will push and pull throughout its range of travel. That said, the number is very small. Ideally the pan hard rod should be mounted relatively close to level at ride height. If the P Rod is 40" for example and the chassis goes through an inch of bump, the amount of pull from the chassis on the rear end will be less than an 1/8th of an inch or so.. very minimal. The P Rod is a case of reducing a larger issue; the control of the chassis over the rear end. Which without a P Rod, Watts link, Jacob's ladder etc.. that issues is far greater than the push and pull of the rear end in its travel. The P Rod also allows you to move the roll center easily. A nice tool if you are in competition and you find you need course changes in a short amount of time. No need to change springs. Changing the roll center effectively, changing the leverage and the effectiveness of the spring.

(3) steps.. 3M Panel bond the quarter panel to the flare. Epoxy to bare metal primer, then SEM under coating. Helpful?

Good morning! The real answer is that you want to feel up into the wheel wheel and find the top/flat of the wheel well. You want the new inner to start at the flat. If you cut lower for example, you will be loosing the wheel travel/space as the old metal wheel well arch is headed down past the flat. Follow?

@@maierracing558 hey thanks. Well that measure out to be 6 1/4 lol. How do you determine how much to cut back from the 2 bottom ends of the wheel well? At 4:10 on the video it looks like the gentleman just eyeballed it. At 5:16 the is the inner fender cut where it flattens out?

@@NEWORLEANSYAT The bottom isn't really doing much for you so, yes, blending it is the key...

@@maierracing558 question. I will be bonding my flares with 3M Panel Bond. Should the flare be bonded over epoxy primer or bare metal. If bare metal how would I protect the bare metal under the flare? There is no way to prime any bare metal where there is no panel bond.

@@NEWORLEANSYAT We have bonded over bare metal and epoxy. If you bond to the (dry) epoxy, be sure to scuff and clean the surface well.

Great question~ 90% of the time the issues are around not prepping the surfaces correctly. Surfaces need to be rough (36 grit sand paper rough). Clean, acetone or thinner. 3M panel bond is a great option. 08115..? pretty sure that is the part number for what we use. Best of luck! cm

@@maierracing558 Thanks so much! I like the idea of using panel bond in addition to the glassing the part to bare metal. Last question: What if anything is recommended to seal the bare metal behind the flare to prevent possible rust?

@@davyhay1 I would use something like a primer etch that is intended for Direct to metal surfaces.

Hello Jason~ Thanks for the notes... I am the first to say that I have not made an effort to perfect welding in sub frame connectors ;-) I have welded in 20-30 sets in my life but that is not pontification, I am just saying that I have for whatever that is worth.. Could just be repeating mistakes. I will add some information to the story and how this was done. The car was basically stripped (some suspension left but nothing else) and already had a partial cage in it. So there was very little if any load to pull the car out of shape. We supported the car with pallets in the center to spread the load and tires in the front. So we spread whatever load that was left. **Turns out the car was a salvage title at one point and had a new frame rail in it. So... In our case, I am not sure perfection was something worth going for. Random additional note. We noticed the floor was sectioned previously and I did what we did in our 1960 Mini.. we bonded the entire floor top and bottom with fiberglass and a high strength vinyl ester that is fire retardant. It added a significant amount of strength to the entire floor/chassis. We did not measure the change but when jacking on it to roll the car, very little if any movement. I think your tips for the average car and installation is spot on. Again, thanks for the engagement - C Maier..

Can you please be more specific about where?

The kit is somewhat universal. It is designed to help stabilize the rear-end of the car and sets the roll center. The challenge for the applications like yours is the aluminum tube. You may need a longer tube that we can supply in 1" increments. If you plan to do auto-crossing or road racing, it is a good addition. Hopefully helpful! Cm

Hi George, We no longer make those subframe connectors. I would suggest that you reach out to Mike Maier Inc. in Livermore CA. They make a similar subframe connectors and they will know if their subframe connectors will work on your '68 Falcon.

Yes, it has been discontinued

www.maierracing.com/shop/fiberglass/ Let us know if there is something in particular, part or year if you need help.

Simple & common question~ But not such a simple answer. Yes, quality leafs and shock are most of it. I would feel better knowing more to give you the closest answer I could. For the moment, our leafs are designed to have as much stability forward of the axle as possible (which addresses the wheel hop). Much more than what we have will give away the ride quality. On the topic of the ride, the limited leafs behind the axle helps with the comfort. Quality shocks are a significant factor. Bilstiens are good quality for the price. if you have some discretion in your budget, you can upgrade to the Integra shocks. They control the rate in which things happen. Email us with specifics from there..

Hello~ FYI... the logic behind where we cut the quarter, is that we create clearance from the flat spot of the top of the inner wheel well arch. It is not for the travel of the axel. This way if you lower the car & even cut the frame rail to gain clearance down the road (as we have done on other cars..) then you always have to the top of the wheel well for the tire. ;-)

@@maierracing558 I understand your way, and your right if the frame rails get cut into the future, the extra clearance was the right move

www.maierracing.com/product/bill-maier-tribute-kit/ YOU CAN ALSO BUY THEM INDIVIDUALLY... Cm-

We make the flares right here at Maier Racing. 510-581-7600

OOOOPS!! That was the 67 68 Car... Here is the 65 link: www.maierracing.com/product/65-66-roman-flares/

Sandamal, We do not make any reinforcement pieces for the upper shock mount area. We do not know of anyone producing anything for it. Dynacorn does list a complete replacement, you may want to look in to that item. FYI, we do not sell Dynacorn.

no sir.. We have moved to Homedale Idaho. Our phone # & email address are the same. Cm

There was some fiberglass layered over the stock metal

We are working on getting them on the website. you can call us for more information. 510-581-7600

TEG, the rear end assembly was built for us by Speedway Engineering in Simi Valley CA.

Does your Mustang still have leaf springs and if so have they been relocated?

@@maierracing558 yes. I want to do the Detroit Speed mini tub kit. With your leaf springs and panhard bar setup. The Detroit Speed kit does move section of frame rail inboard. I believe it does relocate the springs inboard. I dont know how much though. Would the bars need shortened and rethreaded to fit? That is what I'm thinking. Anything can be made to fit.

@@jobsheatz #1. I personally sold the JRI shock line program to DSE. I like their products. That said, I would not really do their Mini Tub. What is your goal? Email us: maiershipping@gmail.com

Yes, I had issues with the stock parking brake line. "I do not have a good suggestion" but I believe that many of our customers have worked around it. I need to ask around and I encourage you to as well- Truth told, many "improvements" have a tendency to be 3 steps forward and one back.." The brake cable and lines need to be addressed. C. Maier

Its about 2" Designed to cover the 18 x 315 with some room to spare on the inside to the leaf spring

Yes... Cm

Hi Harvey3965! Maier Racing does make 1970 Mustang flares, but they are different looking than what are for the 1967-68 Mustang ones. Give us a call 510-581-7600.

FYI... we only make the parts.. Hayward, CA

I live in modesto ca anyway I can take my car somewhere around there and they can do it

Did u ever get your car done I'm also out of modesto and I'm trying to so same thing

@@rubenfelix6452 WE are located in Homedale Idaho

Perhaps we should know but, sincerely, no clue... Charles

Yes, sorry for the late reply! We made them from scratch!

18 x 11 x 315 with 5" back space all 4 corners same.

@@charlesmaier2509 what style wheel is that(brand)

@@jjj66100 ET Mags LT-111

If you follow the channel we are loading up more videos on the car. We did the sub frame connectors & the rear flares last month. We did the full front suspension this past weekend but still editing that

And why would that be a problem?

Paint..? This is only yellow Epoxy primer at the moment. Paint comes later ;-)

@@charlesmaier2509 great video, I wish I had video's like this when I was younger, I learned bodywork the hard way trial and error, he makes it look easy its actually harder than it seems, keep up the good work.

Not really. The Mustang unibody is a lot more flexible than a car or truck that has a full frame that the body is attached to. Subframe connectors tie the front and rear subframes together, stop chassis flex and allow better weight transfer.

Hi John~ You are welcome to contact us at sales@maierracing.com we have the molds to make most of the parts on that car-

@@maierracing558 I will keep that in mind if I transition to TT unlimited (road racing)

Jerry is THE MAN!!

This is a great subject to discuss. MY OPINION... there are numerous companies out right now that offer a 3 or 4 link rear suspension. My view is that most of them are making a 3 or 4 link to "have something" to offer and they are NOT really all that functional. Good for the street rods that look cool but don't really corner well. If you buy a 3 or 4 link "that is sorted out" and built to really be a true professional package, you will spend no less than $8- 10K for the parts and then more to install it. Our leaf spring rear suspension ($1,499) is simple and straight forward. It works well. If someone ever wanted more, they could spend more money in shocks and have a top shelf working program~