Years ago, when I was younger and ran a small precision machine shop I needed to do alot of different eccentric parts. I modified a boring head by making and installing a holding devise for small collets. I then mounted the boring head into the taper at the headstock of the lathe and indicated zero to the collet hole. I then mounted a part in the collet and proceeded to dial in the offset of the particular design of the part and turned the offset. Using a permanently altered boring head to make a wide range of offset parts saved me time and solved accuracy problems. This technique demonstrated was excellent but only yielded one specific offset. It turned out great. Thanks Joe for the demonstration.
Joe, I want to thank you for the inspiration. Several weeks ago, my brother-in-law broke his glasses and his work schedule as a grain handler in the midst of harvest did not let him have an opportunity to get professional replacements. I set out to make new hinges, melt out the old hinges, and glue in the new ones. Harvest is nearing over and he reports that the glasses with my hinges are still working. Had it not been for watching you do all of the miniatures I would have not even gave a thought to trying. I ended up having to make 3 hinges because I lost one in the chips. Thank you Joe. You make me a better machinist. May God bless you. You have been a blessing to me and to my brother -in-law.
Joe, great to see your progress with the shaper. I’m answer to your question about the square end to the shaft, all my shaft ends on my Boxford shaper have these squares for a small crank handle to carry out adjustments when setting the machine up. Thanks again for sharing with us all. Pete
Another awesome video Joe Pie! Thanks for taking us along on the journey. I never get tired of seeing other machinist work. I'm still learning after 27 years of machining. If I ever quit learning I don't want to do this anymore!
@@joepie221 Thank you sir for your time and knowledge that you share with all of us. I greatly appreciate it! Machining is not a job for me I love it! Seeing someone that knows what they're doing makes it even better! Keep the good stuff coming Joe!
One thing we had when I was working was a couple of small Wohlhaupter along with some Criterion Tenth Set boring heads for tighter tolerance bores in the Bridgeports on jobs we didn't want or need to do in our jig bore or jig grinder. Besides the jig grinder was usually set up to do a very specific job grinding bores in Ampco Bronze support bushings used on a production boring operation. Line boring crankshaft and camshaft bores.
I enjoy a lot of junk on You Tube that I should be ashamed of watching. But every single one of your videos are absolutely humbling. Setups and solutions are elegant and are almost always done with tooling I already own but wouldn't have thought of using in that way. I am not a machinist but you inspire me! The danger is I am beginning to think I could tackle one of these minatures! Thank you for this channel.
Hiya Joe. Great video once again. the Square on the end is for setup before running it on the flat belt drive. My Father in law has a Sunderland Gear planner from the 40s and it has a similar system for setup.
Nicely done Joe, not sure about the opening titles, I kinda prefer the white board intro, not that you asked lol, takes absolutely nothing away from my enjoyment and education Sir, thank you so much for sharing
I'm looking for a standard channel intro regardless of the video content. Hoping to give new viewers an immediate idea of what the channel is all about.
Joe my little shaper has a square drive on the crossfeed shaft for manually driving the table left and right with a hand crank. As well as for and aft and up and down.
Good tip about centrifugal force altering the tool position on the boring head. I've had that happen but couldn't understand why it happened. Now I know!
Joe you made very hard work of that eccentric strap. If you had made it first you could have had any size hole from your cutter. Then make the eccentric to fit. It is always easier to turn a diameter than it is to bore a hole. Regards from Australia
Hi Dave. I agree with your comment. But, I'm making every effort to stick to the dimensions on the print on the first attempt. If I were to do it again, who knows?
Great and informative video as usual. IMO i would make the square chunk round or at least just the edges with a 45 end before the rod for pure aesthetic purpose.
The square on the drive shaft might be a cosmetic thing; the real deal has a shaft going in that allows to adjust the throw (distance) of the tool. It moves a spindle that is conencted to the pin that drives the connecting piece to the top.
I think the square is there so that you can hand crank the Ram back and forth while setting up. On my atlas the one crank fit about 4 different shafts and that was one of them. Btw why do you make an eccentric bushing rather than using a 4 jaw chuck? I thought everyone just used a 4J? Easier for you than swapping out a 40 lb chuck?
Great as always, but what you could have done here is an eccentric within an eccentric, which combined with a finer toothed 'gear' on the lead screw would provide an adjustable feed per stroke. Also the pawl could be made by directional with a neutral but the parts are getting tiny already Lol. It sure would be fun to see this actually cut some Delrin!! This kit is way up on my stay busy when I retire list, not far off!!!!
I have always dialed in the eccentric in a four jaw Chuck then,offset the jaws but,this one is so deceptively tiny,a bushing is probably the only way to cut it.Very cool setup.This is why I look forward to every video. I like reviewing past videos,looking for something I may have missed.
I love 5-C collets. I have fractonal,metric,hex and,square. I would like to have a collet closer,but,the chuck works well enough for me.That chuck stays on the lathe most of the time.
The square shaft is, in your case so you can cycle the feed to see if you’re happy prior to taking the cut, on my 18” shaper it also allows me to adjust the stroke of the ram.
@@joepie221 My english is not so good,maybe because havent used it for years but you speak so clearly that i understand ewery word you say and thats nice too
Hello Joe! Very nice new start on the vidieo! Like always very nice work a pleasure to follow. I think the sqaure is used for manuelly drive the feed in order to adjust the ammont of feed before cutting!
To add to the "what's the square for". On most full-size shapers that I have used (not a huge number, like I can count it on both thumbs) the crank in that position drives a shaft to a bevel gear to a leadscrew on the main wheel that adjusts the stroke. (it does actually rotate, there's no clever linkage like you get with the facing slide of a boring machine) Clearly that isn't what it is for here. So I have two alternative suggestions: 1) It's entirely cosmetic, to look like the big boys 2) It's to manually move the ram to set up the job. And maybe to move the belt on the pulleys. But for those purpose sit would work a lot better on the pulley shaft.
Long time watcher subscriber.. first time commenter.. obviously high props on the machining/sharing knowledge side! Just wanted to call out the new intro... digging it, seems your ninja video skills are also on point!
Awesome, thank you! I love the digital side of things and hope to take my channel to another level. I just have to find the time to learn all the new software.
Love the new introduction Joe, very nice! As usual, your machining is of the highest quality. Thanks for showing us how to do it the " easy" way lol It's never easy trying to machine to anywhere near your standards!
I wonder why they decided to cast that collar, it will look great when you've cleaned it up. It's a great little machine to make and very enjoyable to see how you approach each component. I think your outro's are really great and always worth staying on right to the end👏👏 Good luck from Spain!!
@@joepie221 And a lot cheaper than punching an eccentric hole in an emergency collet. IIRC Hardinge actually offers a service where they will make custom 5C collets along with other sizes to match custom work holding requirements. Another option here would be an adjustable fixture plate with a vee block you can offset as on a Harig Grind All. We had repeat jobs that had eccentrics on them that we had special work holding fixtures for turning the eccentric in the lathe. Locators for the small end of connecting rods so that the same machining line could be used to machine two different length connecting rods.
Ha ha! End of the vid really is "just for fun". Gotta keep us to the very end. Good job. :) And, fantastic work as usual. Always learn from every one of your videos.
Hi Joe. Yes the square is for hand cranking the machine so the throw and position of the ram can be set and also to indicate in a job. How will you time the eccentric for the feed as it needs to advance the cut on the back stroke and i don't see any keyway
@@joepie221 and i gather after you set all the positions on the shat you will dimple the shat so it can't slip? Oh and any further thoughts on making a roller bearing centre for the lathe😁
Another point is to make sure you actually bored ALL the way through the strap. Maybe a little sharpie color on the fixture plate, then add in the radius of the boring cutter tip, which means dinging the plate a bit.
If you did that in a 3 jaw then the actual offset would that end up the correct offset? Also it would end up being a bit of a shady work holding situation and maybe with the bar ending up not parallel to the axis of the spindle.
@@samrodian919 For work holding, it's not really any different to using a soft metal wrap around jaw to prevent surface damage. As for accurate offset, no idea as I'm not making one but I'm pretty sure it would be in the few ten-thousandths range not thousandth's of an inch? Someone with better math skills can work it out
The part where the drill bit picks up a bunch of swarf and spins it real fast....I remember a boy at school deciding to uses his fingers to clear that while the drill was still going....not a pretty sight...unless you like red that is (we had all been told specifically not to do such things) How about a small cup on each machine that has those little wood bits and shims etc that odd processes situations need. lots of my tools have things tied on string or taped to the plug if I use them a lot (I dont use a lot of stationary machines much) This little lathe looks amazing.
There are two categories of people on this comment thread: those that have learned new vocabulary by chipping a cutting edge while extracting a sticky gauge pin (so they now insert something soft in the gap as a matter of habit), and those who haven’t (and will ignore the advice until it happens to them).
Then there are the ones that left plenty of room between cutter and workpiece... and then pulling up on the gage they smack their hand into an amazingly sharp cutter. I was that one. Flesh is not a good substitute for a popsicle stick, "precision" wooden wedge, piece of cardboard, or whatever.... Saved the cutter though :D
Really like the new Intro, nice touch! And great tip in protecting the carbide cutter on gauge pin removal. I will go out and look at my shaper to see if it has the square shaft also,,,Will text you a pix,,Bear.
Hey Joe, I thought you were going to clean up that outside of that piece? It does look bad next to all the other smooth surfaces. Nice work using that split collar to make it though. 👍🏻
What! No "un-loosened" today. Thanks for the masterclass in micro turning/milling. Love the new intro/logo. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 👍🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊️🇺🇲🤞
Joe, love your work and learned a lot from it. One question; why did you make the eccentric tooling on the mill for using on the lathe instead of milling and drilling the part on the rotary table in one go for final parting of in the lathe? If you had to make more parts I would get the idea. Just puzzling here. Curious about your answer. All the best, Job PS; I would like a machined surface for the last part (lug?) you made. All pristine and nice precision parts next to a cellulitis orange appeal. Why did they cast this anyhow? It would make a great rotary table made part....
That eccentric could have been done a dozen different ways. I chose the bushing because its the easiest to setup again. I did finish the outside of the eccentric....with a file....You'll like how I did it. Next video.
Hi Troy. Thanks. Its being done with Clipchamp video editor. Its apparently very expandable. I'm working on a new channel intro video for new visitors, but I like the new intro, so it may be my new opening.
Great new lead/intro for your channel bud. Originally this project looked fairly simple. NOT. I see now this one has a lot of small, tiny parts and pieces. More than any previous projects in this series. I have always had difficulty with offset and interrupted cuts wanting to physically draw me in or make me dizzy. Frequent breaks was usually my relief from that situation. This is coming nicely along my friend. I await your next post. Take care eh.
@@joepie221 I had to think for a moment about that. Getting the hinge square and functional and the lathe like tool holder will be. We really need to admire the original designers of machines like this. They were the early machines that made todays incredible units. Those folks and who ever came up with the idea of a slide rule eh. I think I'm going to dig mine out. It must have a foot of dust on it, LOL. See ya soon my friend.
joe, meant to say last time, 80 thou is (about) 2 mm. and what is a decimal 0.80 ? I thought I understood the inch system just a little bit but now I'm completely confused.
1mm is 39 thousandths of 1 inch or 0.039" (which makes it approx 40 thou) 2mm being approx 80 thousandths is a close approximation. The decimal for that is 0.080". In the inch system, most everything is referred to within 3 decimal places of 1 whole number. When you hear someone talking about tenths, they are actually referring to the 4th decimal placeholder (ten-thousandths). I hope this helps.
@@steveg069 unfortunately there is a misconception about this 0.80 lark. Joe was referring to an American 0-80 sized THREAD which as he says in the video is approximately 1.5 mm or around 0.060". I too was confused as we over here in the UK even if we are working in Imperial do not use the American system of number and tpi for small screws below I suppose 1/4" we have always used one of the Whitworth, BSF, BA, BCy ( British Cycle, not sure I have that correct) so it's easy to get confused when someone quotes something like 0-80 for a thread.
@@samrodian919 Yes it can be very confusing sometimes. The 0-80 screw is actually broken down to mean #0 (size which is 0.060") and 80 which is the TPI (threads per inch). In that respect when he was mentioning 1.5mm that is a very very close approximation to the actual 0.060" diameter that the screw measures. The numbering system we have for small fasteners is puzzling. But once we get above a #12 screw size it gets easier. Metric fasteners are much simpler and give you all the information you need just in the size of the fastener to figure out both internal and external threads without needing a chart. I can do that with imperial, with some extra math but only after getting above a #12 screw.
An #0 imperial screw (such as on a 0-80 thread) has a major diameter of 0.060″ (table lookup!), aka 1.52 mm. Kind of like how a #10 screw is 4.83mm (0.190″), nothing like 10mm.
In Germany a lot of machinists say tenths of a millimeter or hundredths of a millimeter or thousandths of a millimeter and even ½ millimeter is used pretty often. But nobody uses ¼,⅛or other weird fractions. Instead of ¼mm you would say 0,25mm or 25 hundredth or sometimes 2½tenths, but never ¼mm
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Years ago, when I was younger and ran a small precision machine shop I needed to do alot of different eccentric parts. I modified a boring head by making and installing a holding devise for small collets. I then mounted the boring head into the taper at the headstock of the lathe and indicated zero to the collet hole. I then mounted a part in the collet and proceeded to dial in the offset of the particular design of the part and turned the offset. Using a permanently altered boring head to make a wide range of offset parts saved me time and solved accuracy problems. This technique demonstrated was excellent but only yielded one specific offset. It turned out great. Thanks Joe for the demonstration.
Interesting, I'd have to see it.
Great new introduction. The split collet is so simple. I would have fussed about centering the part in a 4-jaw then fussed some more shifting it over.
Then comes part 2. AHHHHH
Thanks for sharing, that's a shop gem about protecting your cutting tool from damage, I've learned that one the hard way, nice work Joe.
Me too. Sucks big time when that happens.
Joe, I want to thank you for the inspiration. Several weeks ago, my brother-in-law broke his glasses and his work schedule as a grain handler in the midst of harvest did not let him have an opportunity to get professional replacements. I set out to make new hinges, melt out the old hinges, and glue in the new ones. Harvest is nearing over and he reports that the glasses with my hinges are still working. Had it not been for watching you do all of the miniatures I would have not even gave a thought to trying. I ended up having to make 3 hinges because I lost one in the chips. Thank you Joe. You make me a better machinist. May God bless you. You have been a blessing to me and to my brother -in-law.
Thank you. Its good to know these do help in a real way.
Joe, great to see your progress with the shaper.
I’m answer to your question about the square end to the shaft, all my shaft ends on my Boxford shaper have these squares for a small crank handle to carry out adjustments when setting the machine up.
Thanks again for sharing with us all.
Pete
Thanks for the info!
Another awesome video Joe Pie! Thanks for taking us along on the journey. I never get tired of seeing other machinist work. I'm still learning after 27 years of machining. If I ever quit learning I don't want to do this anymore!
Thanks for your continued positive feedback. Its very much appreciated.
@@joepie221 Thank you sir for your time and knowledge that you share with all of us. I greatly appreciate it! Machining is not a job for me I love it! Seeing someone that knows what they're doing makes it even better! Keep the good stuff coming Joe!
Dust-cutting that bore reminds me of watching avocado pears ripen: not yet, not yet, not yet, too much! You nailed it, Joe!
Thank goodness for fast forward.
That's one reason Sunnen and others invented honing machines 👍
One thing we had when I was working was a couple of small Wohlhaupter along with some Criterion Tenth Set boring heads for tighter tolerance bores in the Bridgeports on jobs we didn't want or need to do in our jig bore or jig grinder. Besides the jig grinder was usually set up to do a very specific job grinding bores in Ampco Bronze support bushings used on a production boring operation. Line boring crankshaft and camshaft bores.
Dear Joe, Always a joy to see you machining. Thank you all the work. Very satisfying. Your patience and attention to detail inspires. God bless.
Don't cut corners. Ever.
I enjoy a lot of junk on You Tube that I should be ashamed of watching. But every single one of your videos are absolutely humbling. Setups and solutions are elegant and are almost always done with tooling I already own but wouldn't have thought of using in that way. I am not a machinist but you inspire me! The danger is I am beginning to think I could tackle one of these minatures! Thank you for this channel.
I say go for it. Guarantee, if you see it through to the end, you'll be better for the effort.
Hiya Joe.
Great video once again. the Square on the end is for setup before running it on the flat belt drive. My Father in law has a Sunderland Gear planner from the 40s and it has a similar system for setup.
Thanks for the info!
Nicely done Joe, not sure about the opening titles, I kinda prefer the white board intro, not that you asked lol, takes absolutely nothing away from my enjoyment and education Sir, thank you so much for sharing
Needs some VHS tracking artefacts for full authenticity.
I'm looking for a standard channel intro regardless of the video content. Hoping to give new viewers an immediate idea of what the channel is all about.
Nice tip on split collars I am learning lots of skills from watching and doing similar things to you
Glad to hear it!
New intro! Very good and "as is tradition" excellence in workmanship and shared knowledge. Looking very nice. Thanks.
Thanks. I think standardizing may help grow the channel.
So many lessons within this video! Thank you
Thanks for stopping by Chuck.
Thank you Joe. I'm laughing my butt off with the fractional metric. Keep em coming.
Joe my little shaper has a square drive on the crossfeed shaft for manually driving the table left and right with a hand crank. As well as for and aft and up and down.
Good tip about centrifugal force altering the tool position on the boring head. I've had that happen but couldn't understand why it happened. Now I know!
Hi Mark. Its one of those hidden issues you wouldn't think of.
Neat trick on the eccentric sleeve!
The square drive is for adjusting the stroke length. Nice intro Joe. Greetings from the UK.
Thanks for the info!
Love the new intro ☝️
Thank you.
Thank you Joe. Love watching this come together. Thank you for the little tips and tricks you provide. Have a great weekend.
Thanks, you too!
Joe you made very hard work of that eccentric strap. If you had made it first you could have had any size hole from your cutter. Then make the eccentric to fit. It is always easier to turn a diameter than it is to bore a hole. Regards from Australia
Hi Dave. I agree with your comment. But, I'm making every effort to stick to the dimensions on the print on the first attempt. If I were to do it again, who knows?
Thank you Joe for the videos
You bet
I like your new intro. Thanks for sharing your project, while spreading the knowledge.
Glad you like it. I do too.
Great and informative video as usual.
IMO i would make the square chunk round or at least just the edges with a 45 end before the rod for pure aesthetic purpose.
The square on the drive shaft might be a cosmetic thing; the real deal has a shaft going in that allows to adjust the throw (distance) of the tool. It moves a spindle that is conencted to the pin that drives the connecting piece to the top.
I understand its for timing.
I see what you were saying about the pawl mounting and how my suggestion was ont as good as your solution. Well thought out . Cheers
I'm currently rebuilding the rebuild. Its a VIRGO thing.
I think the square is there so that you can hand crank the Ram back and forth while setting up. On my atlas the one crank fit about 4 different shafts and that was one of them. Btw why do you make an eccentric bushing rather than using a 4 jaw chuck? I thought everyone just used a 4J? Easier for you than swapping out a 40 lb chuck?
Thank you Joe. I might have guessed that you would turn the camera into a tool. 👍
Joe, can you do a video on toolmakers vice to rotary table clamping setups and techniques? And thank you for the wealth of knowledge you share.
I like the idea. I have shown my setup before, but a dedicated video may be a winner.
As usual, a well filmed well done project.
Interesting way to make the excenter. All ended well.
Its getting close to being done. Bitter sweet...coming up.
Great as always, but what you could have done here is an eccentric within an eccentric, which combined with a finer toothed 'gear' on the lead screw
would provide an adjustable feed per stroke.
Also the pawl could be made by directional with a neutral but the parts are getting tiny already Lol.
It sure would be fun to see this actually cut some Delrin!!
This kit is way up on my stay busy when I retire list, not far off!!!!
This has been a fun build. I'd really like to cut something at the end.
I have always dialed in the eccentric in a four jaw Chuck then,offset the jaws but,this one is so deceptively tiny,a bushing is probably the only way to cut it.Very cool setup.This is why I look forward to every video. I like reviewing past videos,looking for something I may have missed.
A good method as well, but on this small diameter stuff, my mind always starts in the collet world.
I love 5-C collets. I have fractonal,metric,hex and,square. I would like to have a collet closer,but,the chuck works well enough for me.That chuck stays on the lathe most of the time.
The square shaft is, in your case so you can cycle the feed to see if you’re happy prior to taking the cut, on my 18” shaper it also allows me to adjust the stroke of the ram.
Thanks.
I just love these building videos and learn ed a lot.Thank you Joe🙂
Glad you like them! I try to incorporate something useful for another application in every one.
@@joepie221 My english is not so good,maybe because havent used it for years but you speak so clearly that i understand ewery word you say and thats nice too
Your new Intro is Dorky and Awesome! Need more of that in my life.
Glad you like it!
Hello Joe! Very nice new start on the vidieo! Like always very nice work a pleasure to follow.
I think the sqaure is used for manuelly drive the feed in order to adjust the ammont of feed before cutting!
To add to the "what's the square for". On most full-size shapers that I have used (not a huge number, like I can count it on both thumbs) the crank in that position drives a shaft to a bevel gear to a leadscrew on the main wheel that adjusts the stroke. (it does actually rotate, there's no clever linkage like you get with the facing slide of a boring machine)
Clearly that isn't what it is for here. So I have two alternative suggestions:
1) It's entirely cosmetic, to look like the big boys
2) It's to manually move the ram to set up the job. And maybe to move the belt on the pulleys. But for those purpose sit would work a lot better on the pulley shaft.
Learning everytime I watch your videos.
Glad to hear it
Long time watcher subscriber.. first time commenter.. obviously high props on the machining/sharing knowledge side! Just wanted to call out the new intro... digging it, seems your ninja video skills are also on point!
Awesome, thank you! I love the digital side of things and hope to take my channel to another level. I just have to find the time to learn all the new software.
Like the new intro Joe. Love these new parts.... more super progress. :)
Thanks!
Amazing Joe
Great video! Love the intro, and the “ precision wooden wedge” 😂 I’m sure MSC direct carries them!
They should. :)
Love the new introduction Joe, very nice! As usual, your machining is of the highest quality. Thanks for showing us how to do it the " easy" way lol It's never easy trying to machine to anywhere near your standards!
Thanks 👍
Great video, as always Joe.
👍
🦅 🇺🇸 🦅
On my shaper it allows you to move the Ram manually to either check your stroke length or how deep it might be cutting
I wonder why they decided to cast that collar, it will look great when you've cleaned it up.
It's a great little machine to make and very enjoyable to see how you approach each component.
I think your outro's are really great and always worth staying on right to the end👏👏
Good luck from Spain!!
Many thanks and greetings from Austin Texas USA.
Nice new intro. Great channel.
Thanks. I like it too. It may become the new standard opening/intro.
That is WAY easier and more sensible than fooling around offsetting a 4 jaw chuck.
Immediately repeatable between parts too.
@@joepie221
And a lot cheaper than punching an eccentric hole in an emergency collet. IIRC Hardinge actually offers a service where they will make custom 5C collets along with other sizes to match custom work holding requirements. Another option here would be an adjustable fixture plate with a vee block you can offset as on a Harig Grind All.
We had repeat jobs that had eccentrics on them that we had special work holding fixtures for turning the eccentric in the lathe. Locators for the small end of connecting rods so that the same machining line could be used to machine two different length connecting rods.
I always learn something useful...thanks Joe.
Glad to hear it. Thanks.
Great little part.
So the combination lock looks very close to me...😁👋👋
It will be worth the wait.
Ha ha! End of the vid really is "just for fun". Gotta keep us to the very end. Good job. :)
And, fantastic work as usual. Always learn from every one of your videos.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Joe. Yes the square is for hand cranking the machine so the throw and position of the ram can be set and also to indicate in a job. How will you time the eccentric for the feed as it needs to advance the cut on the back stroke and i don't see any keyway
The brass eccentric has a set (grub) screw to lock it after rotational adjustment.
@@joepie221 and i gather after you set all the positions on the shat you will dimple the shat so it can't slip? Oh and any further thoughts on making a roller bearing centre for the lathe😁
very good job joe..thanks for your time
You bet
I relly enjoy your videos and wish I had a tenth of your talent
Thank you. Stick with it. I dedicated my entire life to this.
Another point is to make sure you actually bored ALL the way through the strap. Maybe a little sharpie color on the fixture plate, then add in the radius of the boring cutter tip, which means dinging the plate a bit.
I did hit it, but a light facing cut will re-dress the surface.
Getting a little cranky with this one I saw Joe. 😉
UK watching!
I learn so much from these, thanks
Glad to hear it!
My small shaper has a hand wheel on that square end for manually advancing the machine
Thanks for the video Joe.
Thanks for checking it out.
Great video. I like the new intro. Thanks Joe.
Glad you like it
New intro is very slick.
I'm too lazy to make eccentric bushing for a single part and would probably just offset with a 0.050" shim in 3 jaw
If you did that in a 3 jaw then the actual offset would that end up the correct offset? Also it would end up being a bit of a shady work holding situation and maybe with the bar ending up not parallel to the axis of the spindle.
Not sure that would give you a correct offset.
@@samrodian919 For work holding, it's not really any different to using a soft metal wrap around jaw to prevent surface damage.
As for accurate offset, no idea as I'm not making one but I'm pretty sure it would be in the few ten-thousandths range not thousandth's of an inch?
Someone with better math skills can work it out
The camera is like having a bionic eye, that never gets old.
True.
Hi Joe, love the new intro!
Thanks. Glad you like it.
Good work, Joe....almost there!
Getting closer. Thanks.
The part where the drill bit picks up a bunch of swarf and spins it real fast....I remember a boy at school deciding to uses his fingers to clear that while the drill was still going....not a pretty sight...unless you like red that is (we had all been told specifically not to do such things)
How about a small cup on each machine that has those little wood bits and shims etc that odd processes situations need. lots of my tools have things tied on string or taped to the plug if I use them a lot (I dont use a lot of stationary machines much)
This little lathe looks amazing.
The thin stainless bird nest is probably the most dangerous. I don't take any chances around that. Especially on a lathe.
I work with a few eccentrics myself, but probably a different kind.
😂😂
There are two categories of people on this comment thread: those that have learned new vocabulary by chipping a cutting edge while extracting a sticky gauge pin (so they now insert something soft in the gap as a matter of habit), and those who haven’t (and will ignore the advice until it happens to them).
Then there are the ones that left plenty of room between cutter and workpiece... and then pulling up on the gage they smack their hand into an amazingly sharp cutter. I was that one. Flesh is not a good substitute for a popsicle stick, "precision" wooden wedge, piece of cardboard, or whatever.... Saved the cutter though :D
Ever hang out with turret lathe operators ?????? Everyone of them has a puncture scar.
Really like the new Intro, nice touch! And great tip in protecting the carbide cutter on gauge pin removal. I will go out and look at my shaper to see if it has the square shaft also,,,Will text you a pix,,Bear.
Thanks Bear.
Thanks Joe
Hey Joe, I thought you were going to clean up that outside of that piece? It does look bad next to all the other smooth surfaces. Nice work using that split collar to make it though. 👍🏻
I will. It looks unfinished.
That was a good one ! thanks Joe
Glad you enjoyed it
Very nice..
The eccentric on the shaft goes round and round….
So....how many times did we sing that to our kids. :)
Oh yeah. Almost forgot! Love your new intro!
Woody
Thanks!
Are you wearing magnifying Goggles? I’m so impressed at the precession at that scale
I use a loupe for close up work at the machine, and use a vision aid headset magnifier at the bench.
@@joepie221 I’m hoping in the end you make the miniature shop with the drive, maybe even use that steam engine you made😊
What! No "un-loosened" today. Thanks for the masterclass in micro turning/milling.
Love the new intro/logo.
Regards from Canada's banana belt. 👍🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊️🇺🇲🤞
Today is Joe's 'un-hinged' and eccentric day😄
I'll have to double up in a future one.
Nice intro, good info also
Thanks. The intro will probably be the new opening on all of the following material.
Amazing work,Joe.I´m taken by your home made fixture plates.Where do you get the little pretty clamps?.Thank you.
I made them many years ago. My friend Chuck recently did a video on how he made a set. Check it out. ruclips.net/video/FaFhyP3rckI/видео.html
Joe, love your work and learned a lot from it. One question; why did you make the eccentric tooling on the mill for using on the lathe instead of milling and drilling the part on the rotary table in one go for final parting of in the lathe? If you had to make more parts I would get the idea. Just puzzling here. Curious about your answer. All the best, Job
PS; I would like a machined surface for the last part (lug?) you made. All pristine and nice precision parts next to a cellulitis orange appeal. Why did they cast this anyhow? It would make a great rotary table made part....
That eccentric could have been done a dozen different ways. I chose the bushing because its the easiest to setup again. I did finish the outside of the eccentric....with a file....You'll like how I did it. Next video.
Nice work, many thanks for the tip. I do wonder what the wire EDM parts at the end are for though.
Bed side rail clamps for a surgical table.
@@joepie221 Fair enough. Quite an expensive way to make them I would have thought.
Hey Joe Thank you sir. like your new intro thats cool.
Thanks David. I think its a keeper.
It would be cool if you could hide a small DC motor in the cone pulley
Hold my beer.
@@joepie221 I would gladly hold your beer 🍻
Like the eccentric bushing, however why not only cut through one of the sides to keep the bushing in one piece. That would still work I guess.
Depending on the material stress, the bushing could relax and distort and make it hard to install the part.
love the new intro Joe it looks great !! What are you using to generate that because it is classy
Hi Troy. Thanks. Its being done with Clipchamp video editor. Its apparently very expandable. I'm working on a new channel intro video for new visitors, but I like the new intro, so it may be my new opening.
@@joepie221 Works for me my friend.
That looks money mate!!! 🎉
Thanks.
Side note, check out Inheritance Machining. He seems like a good egg
I did. Good production value too.
Nice intro.
I'm glad you like it.
Great new lead/intro for your channel bud. Originally this project looked fairly simple. NOT. I see now this one has a lot of small, tiny parts and pieces. More than any previous projects in this series. I have always had difficulty with offset and interrupted cuts wanting to physically draw me in or make me dizzy. Frequent breaks was usually my relief from that situation. This is coming nicely along my friend. I await your next post. Take care eh.
Thanks 👍 The clapper block is last and looking pretty challenging too.
@@joepie221 I had to think for a moment about that. Getting the hinge square and functional and the lathe like tool holder will be. We really need to admire the original designers of machines like this. They were the early machines that made todays incredible units. Those folks and who ever came up with the idea of a slide rule eh. I think I'm going to dig mine out. It must have a foot of dust on it, LOL. See ya soon my friend.
joe, meant to say last time, 80 thou is (about) 2 mm.
and what is a decimal 0.80 ?
I thought I understood the inch system just a little bit but now I'm completely confused.
1mm is 39 thousandths of 1 inch or 0.039" (which makes it approx 40 thou) 2mm being approx 80 thousandths is a close approximation. The decimal for that is 0.080". In the inch system, most everything is referred to within 3 decimal places of 1 whole number. When you hear someone talking about tenths, they are actually referring to the 4th decimal placeholder (ten-thousandths). I hope this helps.
@@steveg069 unfortunately there is a misconception about this 0.80 lark. Joe was referring to an American 0-80 sized THREAD which as he says in the video is approximately 1.5 mm or around 0.060". I too was confused as we over here in the UK even if we are working in Imperial do not use the American system of number and tpi for small screws below I suppose 1/4" we have always used one of the Whitworth, BSF, BA, BCy ( British Cycle, not sure I have that correct) so it's easy to get confused when someone quotes something like 0-80 for a thread.
@@samrodian919 Yes it can be very confusing sometimes. The 0-80 screw is actually broken down to mean #0 (size which is 0.060") and 80 which is the TPI (threads per inch). In that respect when he was mentioning 1.5mm that is a very very close approximation to the actual 0.060" diameter that the screw measures.
The numbering system we have for small fasteners is puzzling. But once we get above a #12 screw size it gets easier. Metric fasteners are much simpler and give you all the information you need just in the size of the fastener to figure out both internal and external threads without needing a chart. I can do that with imperial, with some extra math but only after getting above a #12 screw.
Decibel .80 is 8 tenths of an inch.
@@ellieprice363 in machining language, 0.8" is called 800 thousandths.
Is there a reason why you ream first then chamfer?
As not to debur twice?
Are you not putting a bur in the hole after ?
You can only chamfer the entry side prior to reaming. The opposite side is normally a secondary op.
Wonderful.....
Thank you!
Remember to check the run out of your endmill when boring
If you charged a nickel for every little shop tip you've given us, you would have money for a dive in the Yucatan again.
I'm looking forward to the next time.
Yayy number 1 viewer :-)
Way to go. Thanks for the support.
:thumbsup:
O.08 inches = 2.032 Joe
millimetres
Just for the record Joe
An #0 imperial screw (such as on a 0-80 thread) has a major diameter of 0.060″ (table lookup!), aka 1.52 mm. Kind of like how a #10 screw is 4.83mm (0.190″), nothing like 10mm.
Thanks Steve.
👍
In countries that have been metric for a long time when using mm, nobody talks in fractions of a mm! fractions are for imperial countries!
In Germany a lot of machinists say tenths of a millimeter or hundredths of a millimeter or thousandths of a millimeter and even ½ millimeter is used pretty often. But nobody uses ¼,⅛or other weird fractions.
Instead of ¼mm you would say 0,25mm or 25 hundredth or sometimes 2½tenths, but never ¼mm
Its just one of those things my subscribers have come to tolerate. I enjoy seeing how many comments I get when I do it.
👍👍
Hey Denny.