I recently came across your build and have been binge watching in my spare time. I recently bought a lathe and am hoping to get a mill by spring. I am learning a lot watching you work. You're very thorough with explanations for the processes and very enjoyable to watch. I hope you can come back to the project soon.
@@hamiltonsullivan6563 thanks for checking in. The renovations took a little longer than expected as they always do but are almost done now. Now just a shed to build and then the project will be good to go. I look forward to sharing progress in due course.
@@SS-Workshop alright cool! Love your style of videos because they are a lot different compared to most of the other videos either kit bashing smaller models or just reviewing live steam locomotives.
Thanks Bruce, great to hear your connection to the fell engines. I hope I’m doing it justice, they have always intrigued me and even after much research I’m flying blind on some of the early features but doing what I can to make as accurate a representation as possible.
I need to ask as I'm just about to get a DRO for my 28V, having some time with the Z-axis scale on the quill was this the best way to go? I mainly see them on the column but as you would rarely if ever use the column to move the tool on the material thought it was a waste to have it there..
I’m with you on this, I have never regretted having mine in the quill. What I have found is because you have the fine adjust on the quill that’s what you use to set your height. I only use the column height when I change setups and then you touch off and set the DRO again. I actually have a old magnetic DRO with remote readout I have been going to install on the column since I got it and have never found enough need to spend the time to install it. I think the idea comes from knee mills which I understand are more rigid if you keep the quill retracted and only use the knee. On the 28v as with most bench top mills the adjustment isn’t fine enough to use the column beyond the big moves. One other note on the 28v and DRO’s, make sure you measure the travel for lengths of scales to order I found the Y axis had more travel the specs say. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the insight. im the same the Z colomn axis only gets moved on tool and stock changes. iirc all my scales are about 20mm longer than the specified length on the manual. Thanks again
Hey mate, if you are still around i have a heap of parts for this mill if you want them (free). I converted mine to belt driven CNC with an AC motor so have heaps of bits i wont use. Your video on gear replacement helped out a few times so figured I can pay it forward.
Hi Neil, thanks for thinking of me, much appreciated. I probably don’t have to much use for spare parts especially as my shed is overflowing with stuff but keen to know a couple more details on your cnc conversion if you don’t mind. Its certainly something I would like to do to the optimum in the future if I pick up a bigger manual mill. If you have any pictures and/or info on the parts you used I would be really interested my email address is sswkshop@gmail.com Cheers Chris
Hi Ron, great to hear from you, Im all good over here, taking a break from the fell engine to renovate my house, hopefully back to it soon. Hope all is well on your side of the ditch.
Considering wear on your cutter inserts, how much do you estimate it cost to reduce the size of the block of steel you used. Being a tight arse, I look at ways to use metal bandsaw and hole drilling to remove excess material. In my case I estimate it would cost me a set of inserts to mill off a cubic inch of material, or probably two H S S Cutters. Stavros, the impecunious .
Great question Steve, with a carbide insert face mill the insets are made for far more work than my bench top mill can so the inserts last a long time. I probably change the inserts once or twice a year and with the style I’m using here the inserts have 4 corners so I get a couple of years out of a set of inserts of which there are 4 carbide inserts. My face mill and the inserts were purchased online from China and were the cheapest I could find with the inserts were around $40 NZ (roughly $20 US, Euro, GBP). So the consumables are cheap the reason for changing the inserts is usually for surface finish rather than them not cutting, chipped cutters come from bad treatment / mistakes and they are pretty hard to overheat, I quite often cut with the chips coming off glowing but will also cut slower just a well. The main considerations for using one of these is up front costs of arbor, shell and inserts. Along with the rigidity of you machine, as these are pretty hard on the machine. I usually remove large quantities of material by bandsaw and smaller with a face mill say a few millimeters If nothing else it’s faster with a bandsaw.
Hi Jack, the project is on hold at the moment while I get some other projects around the house sorted but hope to continue sharing when I resume work on it. It will likely run at a local club once done. Cheers Chris
@@SS-Workshop Don't know if there is a 3.5" track in wellington, closest is picton I think or pamnua. Looking foward to the build, good luck. Thanks Jack
@@jackgonscak5239 interesting can’t say I checked. Maidstone would be my closest club which has a raised line but not sure if they have a 3.5. The build was the draw for me but would be nice to see it make an occasional run so will need to find a track at some point. Cheers Chris
Maidstone has 2.5", 3.5", 5", and 7 1/4". I think petone might have 3.5" as well. Currently we are looking to start a 3.5" and smaller convention similar to the CANMOD which has just taken place in chch which will probably be held Blenheim/Nelson so it's not to far for those over on that other island to join in 😝. Might give you something to work towards. If it makes you feel better my 3.5" rebuild I started at the same time you started which was to take 3 months is still going. Learnt the hard way to build and not buy 😂
@@jefferyfarrell thanks for that, I probably should pop up the road and take a look one of these days, plan B was a line in my backyard. You never know I might finish it one day…. Just got to stop finding excuses or stop letting them find me 😆. I hope all is well down your way, great to hear from you. Cheers Chris.
I recently came across your build and have been binge watching in my spare time. I recently bought a lathe and am hoping to get a mill by spring. I am learning a lot watching you work. You're very thorough with explanations for the processes and very enjoyable to watch. I hope you can come back to the project soon.
I found the channel yesterday and was able to binge watch this entire series. Very upset that i now have to wait like everyone else!
Love the project! I really want to build my own now.😁 Keep up the great content!
I hope the project is still progressing well. Starting to worry you have taken up golf instead 🤣
Not golf, home renovations, hopefully will get back to it soon.
@@SS-Workshop hows did the home renovations work work out? Any update?!
@@hamiltonsullivan6563 thanks for checking in. The renovations took a little longer than expected as they always do but are almost done now. Now just a shed to build and then the project will be good to go. I look forward to sharing progress in due course.
@@SS-Workshop alright cool! Love your style of videos because they are a lot different compared to most of the other videos either kit bashing smaller models or just reviewing live steam locomotives.
Hi. Great series, my father drove fells at Cross Creek in NZ until they closed the line in 1955
Thanks Bruce, great to hear your connection to the fell engines. I hope I’m doing it justice, they have always intrigued me and even after much research I’m flying blind on some of the early features but doing what I can to make as accurate a representation as possible.
@@SS-Workshop it looks great. I am amazed with some of your machining solutions to not casting any parts. Really liked the wheel machining.
You have an awesome channel and great content. Keep it up.
hi ssw
great work as usual, its looking good, another step closer.!!
regards mr f
Thanks Mr F
Are you still building this engine
Great series, but why did you stop making videos?
The project was on hold while I renovated a house, I hope to get back to sharing the build soon.
I need to ask as I'm just about to get a DRO for my 28V, having some time with the Z-axis scale on the quill was this the best way to go? I mainly see them on the column but as you would rarely if ever use the column to move the tool on the material thought it was a waste to have it there..
I’m with you on this, I have never regretted having mine in the quill. What I have found is because you have the fine adjust on the quill that’s what you use to set your height. I only use the column height when I change setups and then you touch off and set the DRO again. I actually have a old magnetic DRO with remote readout I have been going to install on the column since I got it and have never found enough need to spend the time to install it. I think the idea comes from knee mills which I understand are more rigid if you keep the quill retracted and only use the knee. On the 28v as with most bench top mills the adjustment isn’t fine enough to use the column beyond the big moves. One other note on the 28v and DRO’s, make sure you measure the travel for lengths of scales to order I found the Y axis had more travel the specs say. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the insight. im the same the Z colomn axis only gets moved on tool and stock changes. iirc all my scales are about 20mm longer than the specified length on the manual. Thanks again
Hey mate, if you are still around i have a heap of parts for this mill if you want them (free). I converted mine to belt driven CNC with an AC motor so have heaps of bits i wont use. Your video on gear replacement helped out a few times so figured I can pay it forward.
Hi Neil, thanks for thinking of me, much appreciated. I probably don’t have to much use for spare parts especially as my shed is overflowing with stuff but keen to know a couple more details on your cnc conversion if you don’t mind. Its certainly something I would like to do to the optimum in the future if I pick up a bigger manual mill. If you have any pictures and/or info on the parts you used I would be really interested my email address is sswkshop@gmail.com Cheers Chris
Hi Mate, How are you going ! Are you still building the Fell Engine. Haven’t seen any posts for a long time hope you are OK ?
Hi Ron, great to hear from you, Im all good over here, taking a break from the fell engine to renovate my house, hopefully back to it soon. Hope all is well on your side of the ditch.
Considering wear on your cutter inserts, how much do you estimate it cost to reduce the size of the block of steel you used.
Being a tight arse, I look at ways to use metal bandsaw and hole drilling to remove excess material. In my case I estimate it would cost me a set of inserts to mill off a cubic inch of material, or probably two H S S Cutters.
Stavros, the impecunious .
Great question Steve, with a carbide insert face mill the insets are made for far more work than my bench top mill can so the inserts last a long time. I probably change the inserts once or twice a year and with the style I’m using here the inserts have 4 corners so I get a couple of years out of a set of inserts of which there are 4 carbide inserts. My face mill and the inserts were purchased online from China and were the cheapest I could find with the inserts were around $40 NZ (roughly $20 US, Euro, GBP). So the consumables are cheap the reason for changing the inserts is usually for surface finish rather than them not cutting, chipped cutters come from bad treatment / mistakes and they are pretty hard to overheat, I quite often cut with the chips coming off glowing but will also cut slower just a well. The main considerations for using one of these is up front costs of arbor, shell and inserts. Along with the rigidity of you machine, as these are pretty hard on the machine.
I usually remove large quantities of material by bandsaw and smaller with a face mill say a few millimeters If nothing else it’s faster with a bandsaw.
Hi ss workshop, you still going to do youtube updates? also where is the engine goning to run once built? Thanks Jack
Hi Jack, the project is on hold at the moment while I get some other projects around the house sorted but hope to continue sharing when I resume work on it. It will likely run at a local club once done. Cheers Chris
@@SS-Workshop Don't know if there is a 3.5" track in wellington, closest is picton I think or pamnua. Looking foward to the build, good luck. Thanks Jack
@@jackgonscak5239 interesting can’t say I checked. Maidstone would be my closest club which has a raised line but not sure if they have a 3.5. The build was the draw for me but would be nice to see it make an occasional run so will need to find a track at some point. Cheers Chris
Maidstone has 2.5", 3.5", 5", and 7 1/4". I think petone might have 3.5" as well. Currently we are looking to start a 3.5" and smaller convention similar to the CANMOD which has just taken place in chch which will probably be held Blenheim/Nelson so it's not to far for those over on that other island to join in 😝. Might give you something to work towards. If it makes you feel better my 3.5" rebuild I started at the same time you started which was to take 3 months is still going. Learnt the hard way to build and not buy 😂
@@jefferyfarrell thanks for that, I probably should pop up the road and take a look one of these days, plan B was a line in my backyard. You never know I might finish it one day…. Just got to stop finding excuses or stop letting them find me 😆. I hope all is well down your way, great to hear from you. Cheers Chris.
Nice work Mate, also have you got drawings of your air draw bar on the mill ?
Thanks Ron, I will email them to you shortly, assume you still have the same email address, let me know if you don’t receive them. Cheers.
Thanks Mate. Email address : ronaldcarruthers@bigpond.com
Would i be able to get a copy of this plans as I have the same mill. Aaron.light@bigpond.com
are you going to use the Norwegian coupling or this link and pin one?
One of each, the original drawings show the Norwegian on the front and the link and pin on the rear.
@@SS-Workshop that's really interesting! I've never heard of anyone doing that before that's really cool lol
Update please
You will have to wait a little longer but it will come, thanks for your interest.
Horrible music
Please do away with the "music."