Thanks for making the distinction clear. Strongly agree that motorcycle engine oil should be changed when it falls below its optimum wear prevention condition. Recommended change intervals are the maximums,. Bikes used for extended enthusiastic (high revving) use need earlier changes. With high performance engines discoloured oil indicates you are on notice for an oil change.
you earned a Thumbs UP. It should not be taking me hours to figure out what and how much oil to put in a 97 Dyna wide glide. Even with the owners manual! Manual says get the Harley oil. Nearest shop is over an hour away and a oil change shouldn't cost over 50$ for Pete sake
Thanks for this video. My bike takes 10w50 and 5w40, the 10w50 recommended brand were hard to acquire for me due to the Covid pandemic. I was able to change my oil with castrol edge 5w40, very available, and this video gave me confidence as it met your suggested standards. I will look to definitely get the recommended heavier weight oil with more aggressive riding when it is available. I determined that clean oil, maybe not motorcycle specific, with the proper weights, is better to run until you get the recommended oil. Instead of running dirty oil until you are able to get it.
I have to wonder if the lack of "anti friction modifiers" in motorcycle oil just causes more accelerated wear of the transmission and cylinder liners in a motorcycle? I bought a brand new 2002 Ninja 600, and ran only 10W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic car oil in it, from the first 500 miles onward. I ran that bike as hard as possible for 11,000 miles over 10 years, frequently with a passenger, and took it to the drag races many times, and the clutch and engine were in mint condition. The clutch was in brand new condition after all that riding, although I never took the engine apart to check it, the engine sounded the same as it did when new, and the clutch didn't vibrate or shimmy or shutter, it always worked perfect. Many Hayabusa riders use T6 Diesel truck oil in their Hayabusa, others use the cheapest Walmart oil, and never have a problem.
i think car oil in motorbike danger is overblown. Also most authors don't know much but pretend to know so. Been mixing car synthetic with car MINERAL oil to get the viscosity i wanted. I ride a 250cc which revs higher than other bigger cc bikes Funny that critics say car oil has friction modifier and additives that could harm motorbike trannie and motor while at the same breath, saying motorbike oil has MORE friction modifier and additives than car oil to handle the extra stress. LOL, which is it, less or more better? I have added some moly slip (MoS2) concentrate into my motorbike oil, expert say it would ruin or slip up my clutch. No problem for me but it sure reduce drag on down shifting which is good becoz it mean less engine friction/wear. I tell u, many self claimed experts on youtube and internet repeat info others author/blogger. Blind following blinds, nothing new added. You can see it by them saying similar messages. Most conclude with go with your manual spec so to negate potential liability issue. I really hasn't learn from them so i had to come up with my own formulation that balance cost vs result
Thank you brother, I just changed my car's (Suzuki Celerio - 2014) engine oil with Shell 7X which is 5w30 and left with around 1 l of oil in the can, instead of throwing it away, I'll use it in my scooter(Honda Activa - 2006) which is needing oil change
The Bel Ray oil presented were a Group V Ester base Oil, made for high performance racing machines, they contain a lot of zink so as too improve lubrication, (zink is limited in standard oils group l - ll - lll so as to protect catalytic converters from clogging), Group lll hydro-crack oils are the most common on the market today, group lV PAO oils can be found in special auto shops. Most bikes do just fine on group lll oils with the right vicosity.
I have an old air (oil)-cooled Bandit 1200 with many miles (and a few rebuilds). My mentor, an experienced engineer who routinely re-machines Ferrari (and motorcycle) racing heads and blocks for the teams, recommends Valvoline VR-1 HIGH ZINC, despite it not being "motorcycle" specific. As mine's an air-cooled motor, it can develop a lot of heat at the head, he stands by the need for high zinc content. I'll try it; if it doesn't spin my clutch plates I'll stay with it.
Absolutely love the way you presented this information. Very helpful, thanks a lot! I kinda knew this basics but just wanted to be sure that I wasn't missing something given the new stuff that's constantly being out out there! Once again, thanks a lot!
I’ve used Mobile 1 synthetic in my R1 and Ninja 250 for several years with no problems. No way I’m going to start spending five times as much for motorcycle oil. Mobile 1 doesn’t cause clutch slip in my bikes. You do what you want.
Great video especially for new riders. Many New or old riders simply don’t read the bike manual and put whatever they see carry a coupon. Really sad. Every bike has a personality and all have to learn that. There is a reason for every chemical in the bike. Either oil or specific grease.
You forgot to mention that many motorcycle gearboxes are also lubricated with THE SAME oil. Lubricating gears requires somewhat different additives in the oil (gear shear). Regular oils do not always have these additives.
I've been putting car oil in my bikes for over a decade without ill effects - the only time i ever had an issue was when I tried molyslip additive - almost on an old XS750 - withing a few miles the clutch slipped so I drained the oil out and used it later in my car - fresh 15w40 mineral oil had the clutch back to normal in 100 mile - not had clutch slip with semi or fully synthetic yet in my FJ1200 - Will be trying Fuchs Titan 5/40 in the SRX600 because it seems a little thicker than many 5w40 and its a big old lump.
Used auto oil in the early 2000s... castrol gtx... have also used Rotella the breakdown of both oils was rapid... could feel it in the clutch... i now use Amsoil. This stuff keeps its viscosity very well... clutch feel seems to hold up extremely well...
I am here because the old xvz1200 bike I recently resurrected is slipping clutch when I really lean into the throttle. Thinking it could be the oil. On the testing I just dumped in some 10w30 synthetic I had. The viscosity rating is correct per the manual. But it is fully synthetic high end car oil. Time to dump it and out in some cheap Dino oil.
Pavl Rakopv using car oil with slipping agents, energy saving, can cause premature clutch failure , that’s the point of the video. Other than that the engine will run and last just fine.
Im using car engine oil (eo) at my bikes since... a long, long, long, long, long time ago, until now, there's nothing major damage at my clutch systems, isn't that clutch plate also need a lubricant? So what is wrong with car eo in a bikes? All car eo is about lubricating moving parts, so for me there's nothing wrong if we are using car eo in a bikes.
@@ayphool , much depends on the year of your bike. I had a 1995 Kawasaki zx7 up until a year ago. That bike, and this I am sure of, not guessing could use regular car engine oil ( of course you have to use the correct grade ( viscosity) as well. How I Know this is I had an owners manual from Kawasaki regarding this exact model, and they specified in the manual. I also have a newer kawa ninja, a 2003 zx6r. Again, I have a manual for this specific bike as well. Unlike my older Ninja, this one calls for a Jaso approved engine oil ( Japanese automotive standard organization). Jaso approved oil is specifically for motorcycles, because they do not contain friction modifiers as the article stated. Car oil manufacturing companies add friction modifiers to car oil in the interest of making the oil more " slippery" , thereby decreasing friction and increasing gasoline mileage. The Jaso standard came out I think around 2000 or 2001. If you look on the back of the container of various bike oils, almost all nowadays have the Jaso standard. But, the BEST thing to do is consult your owners manual for your bike and follow their instructions. Good riding !
In the 70s my Haynes Manuel advised putting Castrol GTX car oil in the gearbox which is also where the wet clutch is. I had years of trying to sort out the slipping clutch. Stronger clutch springs made no difference. It was just by chance a friend mentioned he had noticed that using a different oil had cured his clutch slip. I thought that's just hear say and carried on with GTX clutch slip. Years later I put in Motorcycle oil and hey presto the clutch stopped slipping. I wish this information had been available in the 70s. Most motorcyclists back then put car oil in motorcycles. What I find confuses things is that there are so many myths, ideas, concepts, misinformation, different schools of thought about engine oil. Haynes had a disclaimer for any incorrect information printed. Apart from the oil issue I found Haynes Manuals excellent on many Motorcycles and Cars over the years. I still have the BSA, I can't be sure without finding the BSA manual but I'm sure that advised using Castrol 20w/50 which later changed its name to GTX. The many different opinions on Brexit come close to the number of many different options on engine oil. I knew someone years ago who thought it was OK to use Lorry oil in his bike (because he got it free) in a high revving Japanese bike. The list goes on. Thank you for this sound advise
always using car oil on my bikes new generation bikes with wet clutch had a vstrom 650 using car oil10w40 for over 8 years and over 100.000 klm's trips and town heavy traffic use . 2 persons fully loaded etc etc... never had a clutch slip never changed the discs or plates in fact i opened up the clutch cover and disassembled the clutch assembly just to take a look ( im a car- bike mechanic). no wear no sludge no nothing . oil changed regularly every 5000-6000 klms up until klm's changed no hard shifting no clunks no noise . smooth as hell. BUT yeap there is a big ''BUT'' 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣 rearly over revved and generally smoothly riden same thing with my 125 cbf commuter . had 85.000 with car oil only changed every 2000-2500 klm's no problems what so ever. now if one rides a sport bike and pushes it to the limit....i think car oil WILL cause the clutch to slip. generally as a technician i see that car oil offers more protection(to all mechanical components) due to its antifriction synthesis unless one puts a bike to high stress which may finally slip because of antifriction synthetics . have a nice day
Hello, Thanks for this video, I have often wondered about this and why MC oils are more expensive. I read that the JSOC MA rated oils have higher friction "more grip" - to aid the clutch, (ie prevent slipping) however this seems like bad news for wear across the rest of the engine. So I wonder whether it is ok so say that the optimum oil to use is one having the lowest friction that does NOT cause clutch slip, (of the recommended viscosity of course) ? Surely the life of the engine is the goal here !
Scenario: Usage; Daily rider bikes to and from work. Both bikes at the 40k+ miles . 60% off road 40% on Time period ; 10 years+ Locale; South West dessert Bikes; 2 "somewhat" highly modified XR651l dual sport air cooled motorcycles. Modifications: K&N High flow POD air-filter (no air-box, too restrictive) , Bored 42.5mm FCR Carb, head ported and dynoflowed , 1mm oversize valves , Stage 1 cam , Bored 102.5 (670cc) ~ 10.5/1 piston , free flow exhaust . XR400 oil cooler , wrapped exhaust and oil feed lines Conditions: 2.5k~3.5k elevation with 105+f summers , 30~45f winters . Commentary; These conditions demand the most of the engine oil to resist thermal breakdown. Heat has been a battle and only the best of oils have survived due to the 250f + oil temps that is encountered at speeds of 75+ (freeway) and off road sandy areas combined with single track . Car oil, both conventional and synthetic 's , have cause premature cam lobe failures. This has been the 1st area that oil thermal breakdown has manifested itself . So far Royal purple MAX Cycle & Lucas full synthetic motorcycle oil seem to have given me the best results evidenced by the minimal wear on the cam when inspected. Royal purple slight performance enhancement and mileage boost have been noted . Mobile 1 V twin and or Super Tech V twin may be next on my list. I do like Mobile 1 V twin oil Prosperous and Zinc package. The fact that Mobile 1 makes this information available to the public , Hats off to them .
What's the difference? Only those (will) know who open minded enough to experiment. I had a slipping clutch (racetrack use) from 10W-60 racing oil for motorcycles, that ceased to slip after I changed the oil to 15W-40 heavy duty (API CI-4 truck) engine oil. In my other bikes I used energy conserving oils without any clutch slippage, so I don't really care what beliefs other people have. If my clutch will slip, then I will change the oil, but also keep in mind, that my clutch 1. have some plates that probably worn 2. and/or needs stiffer springs. My current bike's current oil is a 0W-30 'car' oil...
At last some common sense and it has been verbalised.. So long as it is not a friction modified or energy conserving oil it can be used in a motorcycle with a wet clutch. I have used various car oils in motorbikes over the last 50 years and no clutch issue. Any oil above a 30 weight (hot) should be OK. My recommendation is to use the best full synthetic oil you can, especially POA/Ester blends as these need little to no viscosity modifiers to achieve say 10w-40 range and will not shear down with use. With these oils you could go the manufacturers stated oil change interval. Any other oil Hmmmm..... not in my engine. Or buy cheaper less quality oils & change every 2000-3000kms as this is how long it will take a 40wt oil to shear down to a 30wt due to combined gear box with the gears cutting the viscosity modifiers to pieces.
The only potential problem I sense - is that for an oil to have such a huge wide range from 10 -50 or 10-60 weight they have to use a LOT of VI (viscosity improvers) additives and these VI improvers aren't very shear stable. (churning engine tears them apart, degrading oil) So maybe you'd be better off using a straight grade 50w IF such can be had - or simply an oil with the smallest difference between the 2 # as in 20w/50 so that's 30 range or maybe a 15w/40 (typically a truck oil) which is a 25 range between high & low viscosity. A lot of this is "theory" and we have to practice to find what works best. You can do oil analysis by "Blackstone Labs" or similar to determine how your oil is holding up in real world usage. The $30 charge is peanuts in exchange for peace of mind, perhaps !
I have been using full synthic car oil in my royal enfield himalayan and before that I used it in yamaha virago I never had any problem and all the videos I see on RUclips don't do this don't do that are all bs to me , I used mobile full synthic and now castrol full synthic, my bike runs like champion , my virago lasted 78k miles before it got ran over semi blind old lady
one usefull idea I learned from a oil expert, employed by awell known oil company is that oils rated for diesel engines have better additive packages for cleaning and extreme pressure, making them preferable to ordinary car oils for motorcycles, he said this particularly applied to Harley Davidson motorcycles I still use diesel rated oils in all my vehicles because of this advice. hope this helps
I have a 260 cc atv I live in africa and the best I could find is castrol magnatec 10w-40 A, oil but my atv recommendeds 15w 40sg oil, so will the castrol do fine, there is other oils that has what I need but not name brand so I don't trust those.
Not necessarily. But a dry-clutch engine is much less likely to have problems with an Energy Conserving oil. Not that we'd recommend one for bike use, but if you were stuck somewhere needing half a quart and an EC oil was all that was available... it would work in a dry-clutch engine.
Always prefer to use Full Synthetic as it FAR better resists high temperature thermal breakdown. Lasts 2-3x longer too so Full Synthetic is far cheaper due to less frequent changing.
Two questions: 1) My buddy, who I usually trust in all things mechanical, swears by Shell Rotella T6 diesel oil (5W 40). He’s been using it on all his bikes, and he rides long & hard. Your thoughts? 2) Is it better to change the oil if the bike is sitting all winter, or wait until spring and change it then?
Hey Walter, Most non-motorcycle oils contain additives that can be harmful for motorcycle engines, especially those with a wet clutch. It is your call at the end of the day, but a JASOMA oil at the weight your manufacturer recommends is the best bet. It is best to change your oil in the winter before you store the bike. This will ensure that you have flushed all the grime/contaminants out, and they don't sit in your engine for months on end.
Old post but there’s noting inside a motorcycle engine that can be damaged by car oil by just the oil sitting in it. If the car oil has friction modifiers in it then you could get clutch slippage in a bike. My brand new RM-Z 250 runs like An F1 engine and the manual in zero places says “use a motorcycle specific oil” is says Suzuki oil is recommended but then it says a huge list of certified oils are just fine. I’ve used Rotella T4 and the previous version in all my off-road motorcycles for years with no problem. I’d change the oil in the fall and leave fresh oil in the crank case for spring so you don’t have contaminates sitting in the engine all winter. IMHO the most important things are to use the right viscosity of oil recommended by your manual. Use a certification standard that your manual says to use. Warm up your bike for 5-7 minutes before you get into any revs. Ride your bike smoothly and responsibly. Don’t rev the snot out of it in neutral…..especially when it’s not warmed up. Change the oil often and don’t let it get low.
2:30 What is actually added to motorcycle oil because of their high revving nature that is not contained in car oil? What are these advanced additive packages exactly?
I’ve always used a good name brand oil and the correct weight in my motorcycles and never had any issues with motors or clutch now everyone says need to use motorcycle oil only, I change every 3-5 thousand miles anyway with synthetic, maybe I just got lucky but I have 2 bikes with almost 100,000 miles and like I said no issues and both are on the original clutch
I’ve been running car 20w 50 synthetic in my harley engine case for 30 years. I have a 81 shovelhead and 2015 road king. Just don’t put in the clutch. Think about it. Why would you put something in your motor that’s less slippery?
your Harley has different oil in the primary drive/clutch system (because its 1930's technology) most motorcycle manufactures decided to go to a wet clutch that shares the same lubricant as the trans and engine decades ago. Harley's are the exception to this rule not the norm, you can run any oil you like in a Harley crank case because its pretty much 1/4 of a 1930's radial aircraft engine (literally). Most Harley's have separate oil in the trans, engine and primary drive (if you haven't stitched to a dry primary). Using automotive oil in most motorcycles is a very bad idea
local enterprise broadcasting I like separate clutch & trans oil. The oil from the clutch & primary chain gets hot not to mention it has clutch goo in it. I’d rather have clean virgin oil in the trans I only need to change every 20,000 miles and the oil still looks clean.
Scrum Thebum2 totally agree but Harley has never been concerned about Overall weight (until recently with certain models) so that system works perfectly for them. Perhaps I came off crass and critical of Harley but I’m not. I loved my Harley and Can’t wait to get another one, but they are a very dated design and leak like sivs lol
local enterprise broadcasting Lol my 81 leaks but only from the transmission. If I change the seal every 5000 miles ( a 5 hr job ) it’s dry 😆 My 2015 does not leak a drop
Scrum Thebum2 ride like I do and trust me you’re gonna get leaks lol....plus none of my engines are stock for long so admittedly if you take care of em and leave em stock they’ll keep on ticking
Motorcycle oils seem to have higher friction lubricity than car oils, vis-a-vis the same viscosity. Higher friction lubricity is definitely not good for the engine. I've been using the SHELL Helix Ultra (5W-40) Fully Synthetic motor oil for diesel and gasoline engines with SHELL Pureplus Technology on my HONDA CB400 REVO for the last 10 years with its mileage now at 52,000km. My oil change interval is about every 5,000km or probably once a year. Till today, I don't feel any deterioration to its clutch functionality and the clutch plates are still their originals.
Sorry but a correction. It's not a weight. It's a GRADE. You have 20 grade, 30 grade, 40 grade etc. It is not a weight. Each grade has a viscosity range at certain temperatures. Some 30 grades are on the edge of being 40 grade. Some are close to the lower limits of 30 and nearly in the 20 grade range. The W rating is the winter rating. It does not "flow" like a 10 weight. Oil is thicker at cold temperatures not thinner. This number relates to its ability to pump at a temperature range. If you live in a very hot climate, the first W number means almost nothing to you and you may use 0w, 5, 10, 15, 20W etc. If you live in sub zero temps, yes it matters.
I buy 20L Liqiy Molly 10w60 street race, for 28 dolar for 20 liters, shop have wrong price, i use this for 500km change (1 year) for my 125ccm, and for now i take 8 liters to make flush in car engine 23 years old ;D
I was going to use 10w- 30w Castrol Edge synthetic oil in my YZF600R. It is SN plus rated. It says “Resource Conserving”. Is that the same as “Energy Conserving”? Thanks
I just buy 10-40 motorcycle oil, I don't use syn oil , If you change it under the manufactures suggested oil change intervals by 500 miles or so, you should be just fine. The only bike engines I see smoke are the 2 strokes. They can last a long time.
I have a CVT scooter motorcycle means there is a specific oil for gear box and engine. Can a use car engine oil on my scooter cause they have the same 4 stroke technoloy and separate lubricant for gear or transmission. Thank you.
Ok so if you did an oil change not knowing that I should have used a motorcycle oil and just rode it a few miles should I go ahead and switch them out and if so should I change my filter as well or is it enough to just change the oil ?
Deal all how are you. I am so confused regarding oil for my bike. I have purchased cbr600r 2012 model Can i use shell hx7 5w 30 in it The manual says 10w 30 But this grade is not available in my country. 2nd: there is written (fuel economy) on lable. Should i use it?
There is shell hx6 semi synthetic also available 10w 40 grade. There is nothing written on label. Total qurtz oil is available here. 10w 40 sythetic based I have no experience of total oiL. Which oil should i use??? Kindly help
I just did a oil change on my truck, then put the oil into my quad and put the old quad oil into my bike, been doing this for about 4-6 years, have had to replace my quad engine twice and my bike engine 4 times, saves a whole bunch of money on oil, but costs more in engine replacements, but its nice telling everyone you just replaced your engine, makes them think your a real man....i also cant afford to live in a home, i sleep under my truck covered in oil, because i also dont believe in gaskets, im kinda like the opposite of a flat earther
kind of a weird question here, I left new motorcycle oil sealed in a bottle in an unheated shed over the winter, the lowest temperature's got to -25 something. Would this potentially ruin the oil or is it still good to use ?
hi, i by mistake put car oil in my bike ... i hv a 220cc bike instead of Shell AX5 20w50 i put Shell HX3 20w50 and it says high mileage on Shell HX3 20w50 :(
I have a new Honda CB500. Manual says to use 10W30, however both dealers I've dealt with will put 10W40 and trying to convince me that's ok. Seems like laziness on their part so they don't have to deal with different grades of oil for different bikes. What do you think?
@@qaissamen9856 A lot of motorcycle riders (myself included) use Rotella T-5 and 6 Diesel oil and they rarely have clutch issues. I haven't had an issue with my Victory XC.
Only one Diesel oil, Rotella, has JASO MA on the back of the label. Its not an actual JASO MA certified oil, but Shell has ran the oil through the JASO testing protocol in house, and they self certify that the Rotella oil will be fine in wet clutch applications that would require a JASO MA oil. Many people use Rotella in motorcycles and ATV's becuase the stuff is cheap and it flat out works.
Is any motorcycle oil better for your bike then car oil, like superteack motorcycle oil, is it ok. I hear that it's the same oil as Mobil one, just no advertisement to raise the price. Thanks. I use it in my 1985 honda goldwing limited edition 1200cc.
Years ago one of my friends worked for W-mart tire and lube, and according to his sources Supertech was Mobil in those days and he swore by it being better than many of the name brands.
Wrong! Just like my semi truck. I have oil analysis done each oil change. 15 dollars a piece to have checked. Both are doing fine. 20w50 Valvoline motorcycle is what I use.
We know that wet clutch motorcycle oil must have the JASO MA and JASO MA2 specification. But what about motorcycle engines with dry clutches like cars (boxer BMWs before 2012)? These don't necessarily need to use oil with anti-slip additives and could use car oil, I suppose. What would you say about it?
Tks fr the video , simple and nice...I use 10-40 car oil on my Burgman 400 for 15 years now and no problem at all...best oil for scooters is the car oil...am i wrong ?
15years thats impressive! But how many miles ! 100? 100,000? And the Burg 400 have a belt .i wouldnt drive with car oil. I wouldnt put car oil in the gearbox (at rear wheel) either. But if you want to save money, thats okey! But dont lame Suzuki!
Only one Diesel oil, Rotella, has JASO MA on the back of the label. Its not an actual JASO MA certified oil, but Shell has ran the oil through the JASO testing protocol in house, and they self certify that the Rotella oil will be fine in wet clutch applications that would require a JASO MA oil. Many people use Rotella in motorcycles and ATV's becuase the stuff is cheap and it flat out works.
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I use avocado oil
Used to use castor oil in racing carts, smelled good but more expensive than any of these oils discussed here.
Thanks for making the distinction clear. Strongly agree that motorcycle engine oil should be changed when it falls below its optimum wear prevention condition. Recommended change intervals are the maximums,. Bikes used for extended enthusiastic (high revving) use need earlier changes. With high performance engines discoloured oil indicates you are on notice for an oil change.
Yes, well stated!
Zen Den small engines naturally possess severe operating conditions compared to car & light trucks. Hotter and higher rev .
you earned a Thumbs UP.
It should not be taking me hours to figure out what and how much oil to put in a 97 Dyna wide glide. Even with the owners manual! Manual says get the Harley oil. Nearest shop is over an hour away and a oil change shouldn't cost over 50$ for Pete sake
Best oil video for motorcyclists on RUclips. 👍😊
Thanks for this video. My bike takes 10w50 and 5w40, the 10w50 recommended brand were hard to acquire for me due to the Covid pandemic. I was able to change my oil with castrol edge 5w40, very available, and this video gave me confidence as it met your suggested standards. I will look to definitely get the recommended heavier weight oil with more aggressive riding when it is available. I determined that clean oil, maybe not motorcycle specific, with the proper weights, is better to run until you get the recommended oil. Instead of running dirty oil until you are able to get it.
I have to wonder if the lack of "anti friction modifiers" in motorcycle oil just causes more accelerated wear of the transmission and cylinder liners in a motorcycle? I bought a brand new 2002 Ninja 600, and ran only 10W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic car oil in it, from the first 500 miles onward. I ran that bike as hard as possible for 11,000 miles over 10 years, frequently with a passenger, and took it to the drag races many times, and the clutch and engine were in mint condition. The clutch was in brand new condition after all that riding, although I never took the engine apart to check it, the engine sounded the same as it did when new, and the clutch didn't vibrate or shimmy or shutter, it always worked perfect. Many Hayabusa riders use T6 Diesel truck oil in their Hayabusa, others use the cheapest Walmart oil, and never have a problem.
i think car oil in motorbike danger is overblown. Also most authors don't know much but pretend to know so. Been mixing car synthetic with car MINERAL oil to get the viscosity i wanted. I ride a 250cc which revs higher than other bigger cc bikes
Funny that critics say car oil has friction modifier and additives that could harm motorbike trannie and motor while at the same breath, saying motorbike oil has MORE friction modifier and additives than car oil to handle the extra stress. LOL, which is it, less or more better? I have added some moly slip (MoS2) concentrate into my motorbike oil, expert say it would ruin or slip up my clutch. No problem for me but it sure reduce drag on down shifting which is good becoz it mean less engine friction/wear. I tell u, many self claimed experts on youtube and internet repeat info others author/blogger. Blind following blinds, nothing new added. You can see it by them saying similar messages. Most conclude with go with your manual spec so to negate potential liability issue. I really hasn't learn from them so i had to come up with my own formulation that balance cost vs result
Thank you brother, I just changed my car's (Suzuki Celerio - 2014) engine oil with Shell 7X which is 5w30 and left with around 1 l of oil in the can, instead of throwing it away, I'll use it in my scooter(Honda Activa - 2006) which is needing oil change
The Bel Ray oil presented were a Group V Ester base Oil, made for high performance racing machines, they contain a lot of zink so as too improve lubrication, (zink is limited in standard oils group l - ll - lll so as to protect catalytic converters from clogging), Group lll hydro-crack oils are the most common on the market today, group lV PAO oils can be found in special auto shops. Most bikes do just fine on group lll oils with the right vicosity.
I have an old air (oil)-cooled Bandit 1200 with many miles (and a few rebuilds). My mentor, an experienced engineer who routinely re-machines Ferrari (and motorcycle) racing heads and blocks for the teams, recommends Valvoline VR-1 HIGH ZINC, despite it not being "motorcycle" specific. As mine's an air-cooled motor, it can develop a lot of heat at the head, he stands by the need for high zinc content. I'll try it; if it doesn't spin my clutch plates I'll stay with it.
Thank you guys so much I spent so much time at orileys flipping through forums
Happy to help!
Absolutely love the way you presented this information. Very helpful, thanks a lot! I kinda knew this basics but just wanted to be sure that I wasn't missing something given the new stuff that's constantly being out out there! Once again, thanks a lot!
I’ve used Mobile 1 synthetic in my R1 and Ninja 250 for several years with no problems. No way I’m going to start spending five times as much for motorcycle oil. Mobile 1 doesn’t cause clutch slip in my bikes. You do what you want.
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic sports bike oil on my dirt bikes and change it every 10 hours (2-3 days)
How do you know if its a clutch slip?
@@edwardjones6111 You probably shouldn't even be riding if you dont know if your clutch is slipping or not.
Steve done some reading, i understood now what it is
@@edwardjones6111 lmao ok
I have a 2013 Yamaha and I've always used car mobile one never had a single issue in the world with it.
Thanks for the suggestion, we will check it out!
Great video especially for new riders. Many New or old riders simply don’t read the bike manual and put whatever they see carry a coupon. Really sad. Every bike has a personality and all have to learn that. There is a reason for every chemical in the bike. Either oil or specific grease.
You forgot to mention that many motorcycle gearboxes are also lubricated with THE SAME oil. Lubricating gears requires somewhat different additives in the oil (gear shear). Regular oils do not always have these additives.
Some motorcycles have separate gearbox oil and engine oil.
@@charlessadler1721
Yes but very very few do.
Most are combined.
I've been putting car oil in my bikes for over a decade without ill effects - the only time i ever had an issue was when I tried molyslip additive - almost on an old XS750 - withing a few miles the clutch slipped so I drained the oil out and used it later in my car - fresh 15w40 mineral oil had the clutch back to normal in 100 mile - not had clutch slip with semi or fully synthetic yet in my FJ1200 - Will be trying Fuchs Titan 5/40 in the SRX600 because it seems a little thicker than many 5w40 and its a big old lump.
Used auto oil in the early 2000s... castrol gtx... have also used Rotella the breakdown of both oils was rapid... could feel it in the clutch... i now use Amsoil. This stuff keeps its viscosity very well... clutch feel seems to hold up extremely well...
you didn't say which rotella, which multi grade. If u use 5w40 in high revving bike in hot weather, of course the oil become thin in no time
hi a car engine oil 5w 30, is it good to use my scooter bike as an engine oil?
Most likely yes.
Scooters - the majority use a CVT clutch / belt transmission so they have no "wet clutch" to be concerned with.
How about using car engine oil on scooter ? Scooter with cvt.
I am here because the old xvz1200 bike I recently resurrected is slipping clutch when I really lean into the throttle. Thinking it could be the oil. On the testing I just dumped in some 10w30 synthetic I had. The viscosity rating is correct per the manual. But it is fully synthetic high end car oil.
Time to dump it and out in some cheap Dino oil.
putting the slipping clutch aside... Has anyone ever actually seen an engine failure specifically because they used car oil ?
Pavl Rakopv using car oil with slipping agents, energy saving, can cause premature clutch failure , that’s the point of the video. Other than that the engine will run and last just fine.
Im using car engine oil (eo) at my bikes since... a long, long, long, long, long time ago, until now, there's nothing major damage at my clutch systems, isn't that clutch plate also need a lubricant? So what is wrong with car eo in a bikes? All car eo is about lubricating moving parts, so for me there's nothing wrong if we are using car eo in a bikes.
@@ayphool what oil usd?
@@ВладимирПетренко-к6ь do mean usd = used? If yes, any car eo without specific brand. Here in my country, the best is 10W/40
@@ayphool , much depends on the year of your bike. I had a 1995 Kawasaki zx7 up until a year ago. That bike, and this I am sure of, not guessing could use regular car engine oil ( of course you have to use the correct grade ( viscosity) as well. How I Know this is I had an owners manual from Kawasaki regarding this exact model, and they specified in the manual. I also have a newer kawa ninja, a 2003 zx6r. Again, I have a manual for this specific bike as well. Unlike my older Ninja, this one calls for a Jaso approved engine oil ( Japanese automotive standard organization). Jaso approved oil is specifically for motorcycles, because they do not contain friction modifiers as the article stated. Car oil manufacturing companies add friction modifiers to car oil in the interest of making the oil more " slippery" , thereby decreasing friction and increasing gasoline mileage. The Jaso standard came out I think around 2000 or 2001. If you look on the back of the container of various bike oils, almost all nowadays have the Jaso standard. But, the BEST thing to do is consult your owners manual for your bike and follow their instructions. Good riding !
Shell rotella T6 👌
what grade?
In the 70s my Haynes Manuel advised putting Castrol GTX car oil in the gearbox which is also where the wet clutch is. I had years of trying to sort out the slipping clutch. Stronger clutch springs made no difference. It was just by chance a friend mentioned he had noticed that using a different oil had cured his clutch slip. I thought that's just hear say and carried on with GTX clutch slip. Years later I put in Motorcycle oil and hey presto the clutch stopped slipping. I wish this information had been available in the 70s. Most motorcyclists back then put car oil in motorcycles. What I find confuses things is that there are so many myths, ideas, concepts, misinformation, different schools of thought about engine oil. Haynes had a disclaimer for any incorrect information printed. Apart from the oil issue I found Haynes Manuals excellent on many Motorcycles and Cars over the years. I still have the BSA, I can't be sure without finding the BSA manual but I'm sure that advised using Castrol 20w/50 which later changed its name to GTX. The many different opinions on Brexit come close to the number of many different options on engine oil. I knew someone years ago who thought it was OK to use Lorry oil in his bike (because he got it free) in a high revving Japanese bike. The list goes on. Thank you for this sound advise
What about the difference between mineral-, half synthetic-, and synthetic oil?
always using car oil on my bikes
new generation bikes with wet clutch
had a vstrom 650 using car oil10w40 for over 8 years and over 100.000 klm's trips and town heavy traffic use . 2 persons fully loaded etc etc...
never had a clutch slip never changed the discs or plates
in fact i opened up the clutch cover and disassembled the clutch assembly just to take a look
( im a car- bike mechanic).
no wear no sludge no nothing .
oil changed regularly every 5000-6000 klms
up until klm's changed no hard shifting no clunks no noise .
smooth as hell.
BUT yeap there is a big ''BUT'' 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
rearly over revved and generally smoothly riden
same thing with my 125 cbf commuter . had 85.000 with car oil only
changed every 2000-2500 klm's
no problems what so ever.
now if one rides a sport bike and pushes it to the limit....i think car oil WILL cause the clutch to slip.
generally as a technician i see that car oil offers more protection(to all mechanical components) due to its antifriction synthesis unless one puts a bike to high stress which may finally slip because of antifriction synthetics .
have a nice day
I have a 5w40 for car also rated for MA2 saves me buying two seperate oils
I use VP racing 0w - 50 oil for my 2018 KTM Duke 390. No issues. Every other oil change I'll put 4-6 oz of Shell X 100 oil stabilizer
Hello, Thanks for this video, I have often wondered about this and why MC oils are more expensive. I read that the JSOC MA rated oils have higher friction "more grip" - to aid the clutch, (ie prevent slipping) however this seems like bad news for wear across the rest of the engine. So I wonder whether it is ok so say that the optimum oil to use is one having the lowest friction that does NOT cause clutch slip, (of the recommended viscosity of course) ? Surely the life of the engine is the goal here !
Im using 20w50 O’ Reilly car oil on my harley. As long as its not energy efficient its OK.
20w50 Not good for the engine. You will find iron and aluminum filings when changing the oil
I have been use car 20 50 oil in my Harley for years
i run used chainsaw oil in my bmw r1100rt. runs awesome. btw it's for sale if you're shopping for a great bike. great video. thx
Scenario:
Usage; Daily rider bikes to and from work. Both bikes at the 40k+ miles . 60% off road 40% on
Time period ; 10 years+
Locale; South West dessert
Bikes; 2 "somewhat" highly modified XR651l dual sport air cooled motorcycles.
Modifications: K&N High flow POD air-filter (no air-box, too restrictive) , Bored 42.5mm FCR Carb, head ported and dynoflowed , 1mm oversize valves , Stage 1 cam , Bored 102.5 (670cc) ~ 10.5/1 piston , free flow exhaust . XR400 oil cooler , wrapped exhaust and oil feed lines
Conditions: 2.5k~3.5k elevation with 105+f summers , 30~45f winters .
Commentary; These conditions demand the most of the engine oil to resist thermal breakdown. Heat has been a battle and only the best of oils have survived due to the 250f + oil temps that is encountered at speeds of 75+ (freeway) and off road sandy areas combined with single track . Car oil, both conventional and synthetic 's , have cause premature cam lobe failures. This has been the 1st area that oil thermal breakdown has manifested itself . So far Royal purple MAX Cycle & Lucas full synthetic motorcycle oil seem to have given me the best results evidenced by the minimal wear on the cam when inspected. Royal purple slight performance enhancement and mileage boost have been noted . Mobile 1 V twin and or Super Tech V twin may be next on my list. I do like Mobile 1 V twin oil Prosperous and Zinc package. The fact that Mobile 1 makes this information available to the public , Hats off to them .
you didn't tell us how often u change your motobike oil while using car oil
since u are racing highly modded bikes, it is silly not use the best oil
What's the difference? Only those (will) know who open minded enough to experiment. I had a slipping clutch (racetrack use) from 10W-60 racing oil for motorcycles, that ceased to slip after I changed the oil to 15W-40 heavy duty (API CI-4 truck) engine oil. In my other bikes I used energy conserving oils without any clutch slippage, so I don't really care what beliefs other people have. If my clutch will slip, then I will change the oil, but also keep in mind, that my clutch 1. have some plates that probably worn 2. and/or needs stiffer springs. My current bike's current oil is a 0W-30 'car' oil...
At last some common sense and it has been verbalised.. So long as it is not a friction modified or energy conserving oil it can be used in a motorcycle with a wet clutch. I have used various car oils in motorbikes over the last 50 years and no clutch issue. Any oil above a 30 weight (hot) should be OK.
My recommendation is to use the best full synthetic oil you can, especially POA/Ester blends as these need little to no viscosity modifiers to achieve say 10w-40 range and will not shear down with use. With these oils you could go the manufacturers stated oil change interval. Any other oil Hmmmm..... not in my engine.
Or buy cheaper less quality oils & change every 2000-3000kms as this is how long it will take a 40wt oil to shear down to a 30wt due to combined gear box with the gears cutting the viscosity modifiers to pieces.
Does it means that automotive oil can be used on motorcycle too as long as the API standards are equivalent?
Absolutely.
Can i use 5w30 car engine oil in my 110cc Scooter ?
I use 10w40 "car" oil in my 125cc scooter. Just basic oil, nothing fancy no "energy efficent" label on bottle.
Please tell me can you use a 10w 60 grade in a motorcycle cruiser, right now I am using 10w 50
Why do you want to use 10W60 ?
The only potential problem I sense - is that for an oil to have such a huge wide range from 10 -50 or 10-60 weight they have to use a LOT of VI (viscosity improvers) additives and these VI improvers aren't very shear stable.
(churning engine tears them apart, degrading oil)
So maybe you'd be better off using a straight grade 50w IF such can be had - or simply an oil with the smallest difference between the 2 # as in 20w/50 so that's 30 range or maybe a 15w/40 (typically a truck oil) which is a 25 range between high & low viscosity.
A lot of this is "theory" and we have to practice to find what works best.
You can do oil analysis by "Blackstone Labs" or similar to determine how your oil is holding up in real world usage.
The $30 charge is peanuts in exchange for peace of mind, perhaps !
I have been using full synthic car oil in my royal enfield himalayan and before that I used it in yamaha virago I never had any problem and all the videos I see on RUclips don't do this don't do that are all bs to me , I used mobile full synthic and now castrol full synthic, my bike runs like champion , my virago lasted 78k miles before it got ran over semi blind old lady
Ran my cx500 100,000 kms after slick-50 treating it, and never replaced a cutch plate... just the frame... 3 times...
one usefull idea I learned from a oil expert, employed by awell known oil company is that oils rated for diesel engines have better additive packages for cleaning and extreme pressure, making them preferable to ordinary car oils for motorcycles, he said this particularly applied to Harley Davidson motorcycles I still use diesel rated oils in all my vehicles because of this advice. hope this helps
Why most mx and woods racers use the diesel marines oils. They exceed the motorcycle requirements
I have a 260 cc atv I live in africa and the best I could find is castrol magnatec 10w-40 A, oil but my atv recommendeds 15w 40sg oil, so will the castrol do fine, there is other oils that has what I need but not name brand so I don't trust those.
Thanks! In a word motorcycle can use high density car motor oil, -40, -50.
Your wrong car oil has friction modifiers not good for wet clutches!
Car oil can be use in automatic motorcycle engine?
so in a dry clutch, a motorcycle specific oil is less important?
Not necessarily. But a dry-clutch engine is much less likely to have problems with an Energy Conserving oil. Not that we'd recommend one for bike use, but if you were stuck somewhere needing half a quart and an EC oil was all that was available... it would work in a dry-clutch engine.
Thanks for the video I have a 2005 Roadstar. It takes 10w40. Can I use Conventional oil or Full Synthetic?
Always prefer to use Full Synthetic as it FAR better resists high temperature thermal breakdown.
Lasts 2-3x longer too so Full Synthetic is far cheaper due to less frequent changing.
Two questions: 1) My buddy, who I usually trust in all things mechanical, swears by Shell Rotella T6 diesel oil (5W 40). He’s been using it on all his bikes, and he rides long & hard. Your thoughts? 2) Is it better to change the oil if the bike is sitting all winter, or wait until spring and change it then?
Hey Walter,
Most non-motorcycle oils contain additives that can be harmful for motorcycle engines, especially those with a wet clutch. It is your call at the end of the day, but a JASOMA oil at the weight your manufacturer recommends is the best bet.
It is best to change your oil in the winter before you store the bike. This will ensure that you have flushed all the grime/contaminants out, and they don't sit in your engine for months on end.
@@twistedthrottle I've heard most (if not all) 10w40 auto oils have no friction modifiers. True?
Old post but there’s noting inside a motorcycle engine that can be damaged by car oil by just the oil sitting in it. If the car oil has friction modifiers in it then you could get clutch slippage in a bike. My brand new RM-Z 250 runs like
An F1 engine and the manual in zero places says “use a motorcycle specific oil” is says Suzuki oil is recommended but then it says a huge list of certified oils are just fine. I’ve used Rotella T4 and the previous version in all my off-road motorcycles for years with no problem. I’d change the oil in the fall and leave fresh oil in the crank case for spring so you don’t have contaminates sitting in the engine all winter. IMHO the most important things are to use the right viscosity of oil recommended by your manual. Use a certification standard that your manual says to use. Warm up your bike for 5-7 minutes before you get into any revs. Ride your bike smoothly and responsibly. Don’t rev the snot out of it in neutral…..especially when it’s not warmed up. Change the oil often and don’t let it get low.
2:30 What is actually added to motorcycle oil because of their high revving nature that is not contained in car oil? What are these advanced additive packages exactly?
Zinc phosphorus and others
can i put car engine oil in my bike engine???
I’ve always used a good name brand oil and the correct weight in my motorcycles and never had any issues with motors or clutch now everyone says need to use motorcycle oil only, I change every 3-5 thousand miles anyway with synthetic, maybe I just got lucky but I have 2 bikes with almost 100,000 miles and like I said no issues and both are on the original clutch
What brand and viscosity of oil do you use?
Is it OK to use motorcycle in a generator with a 4 cycle engine.
Wet clutches need the right oil dry clutches can use high qualty auto oil and be fine .
I use car oil for my scooter does it hurt the engine, i replace it every 1000 km
Car oil is ok as scooters do not have a wet clutch
I’ve been running car 20w 50 synthetic in my harley engine case for 30 years. I have a 81 shovelhead and 2015 road king. Just don’t put in the clutch. Think about it. Why would you put something in your motor that’s less slippery?
your Harley has different oil in the primary drive/clutch system (because its 1930's technology) most motorcycle manufactures decided to go to a wet clutch that shares the same lubricant as the trans and engine decades ago. Harley's are the exception to this rule not the norm, you can run any oil you like in a Harley crank case because its pretty much 1/4 of a 1930's radial aircraft engine (literally). Most Harley's have separate oil in the trans, engine and primary drive (if you haven't stitched to a dry primary). Using automotive oil in most motorcycles is a very bad idea
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I like separate clutch & trans oil. The oil from the clutch & primary chain gets hot not to mention it has clutch goo in it. I’d rather have clean virgin oil in the trans I only need to change every 20,000 miles and the oil still looks clean.
Scrum Thebum2 totally agree but Harley has never been concerned about Overall weight (until recently with certain models) so that system works perfectly for them. Perhaps I came off crass and critical of Harley but I’m not. I loved my Harley and Can’t wait to get another one, but they are a very dated design and leak like sivs lol
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Lol my 81 leaks but only from the transmission. If I change the seal every 5000 miles ( a 5 hr job ) it’s dry 😆
My 2015 does not leak a drop
Scrum Thebum2 ride like I do and trust me you’re gonna get leaks lol....plus none of my engines are stock for long so admittedly if you take care of em and leave em stock they’ll keep on ticking
What about using Diesel Oil in motorcycles ? Would the Extra zinc help and be better than using car oil?
Motorcycle oils seem to have higher friction lubricity than car oils, vis-a-vis the same viscosity. Higher friction lubricity is definitely not good for the engine. I've been using the SHELL Helix Ultra (5W-40) Fully Synthetic motor oil for diesel and gasoline engines with SHELL Pureplus Technology on my HONDA CB400 REVO for the last 10 years with its mileage now at 52,000km. My oil change interval is about every 5,000km or probably once a year. Till today, I don't feel any deterioration to its clutch functionality and the clutch plates are still their originals.
Hi Sir,
Can I use synthetic engine oil in my motor cycle (150cc Indian Bike)
Not with a wet clutch.
so what oil would you put in a suzuki RF600R,its been stud for 6 years,i am going to start it up,and let the oil worm up,and dran it,
Can you review amsoil 10w40 vs motul h tech 100 10w40
good honest info thx
Hello Experts. What do you recommend the best way to flush out a wrong motorcycle oiL used aside from just draining it? Many Thanks!!
Pump it out from the dipstick
Glad I found your channel just subscribed
Thanks for the insight!
Sorry but a correction. It's not a weight. It's a GRADE. You have 20 grade, 30 grade, 40 grade etc. It is not a weight. Each grade has a viscosity range at certain temperatures. Some 30 grades are on the edge of being 40 grade. Some are close to the lower limits of 30 and nearly in the 20 grade range.
The W rating is the winter rating. It does not "flow" like a 10 weight. Oil is thicker at cold temperatures not thinner. This number relates to its ability to pump at a temperature range. If you live in a very hot climate, the first W number means almost nothing to you and you may use 0w, 5, 10, 15, 20W etc. If you live in sub zero temps, yes it matters.
I buy 20L Liqiy Molly 10w60 street race, for 28 dolar for 20 liters, shop have wrong price, i use this for 500km change (1 year) for my 125ccm, and for now i take 8 liters to make flush in car engine 23 years old ;D
What about atv in your car engine? like a 0-40 syn
Does an engine oil 4a car without 4T on the label be ok in a wet clutch motorcycle engine?
10W40 pennzoil is what I got in my dirt bike idk if it’s bad idea or good but seems great?
How about motorcycle scooter engine can we use car engine oil with the same viscosity in scooter
How about straight weights. I've always used straight 30w in my 77 ct90.
How about using motorcycle oil in a car engine??
I was going to use 10w- 30w Castrol Edge synthetic oil in my YZF600R. It is SN plus rated. It says “Resource Conserving”. Is that the same as “Energy Conserving”?
Thanks
yes
I just buy 10-40 motorcycle oil, I don't use syn oil , If you change it under the manufactures suggested oil change intervals by 500 miles or so, you should be just fine. The only bike engines I see smoke are the 2 strokes. They can last a long time.
Sir, What is your opinion about nanoparticle based engine oil additives ? Please ,ake a video if possible. Thank you.
Sure are a lot of unanswered questions in the comments.
I have a CVT scooter motorcycle means there is a specific oil for gear box and engine. Can a use car engine oil on my scooter cause they have the same 4 stroke technoloy and separate lubricant for gear or transmission. Thank you.
Ok so if you did an oil change not knowing that I should have used a motorcycle oil and just rode it a few miles should I go ahead and switch them out and if so should I change my filter as well or is it enough to just change the oil ?
Api sn or api sl for motorcycle. I been researching and api sl is for motorcycle and api sn for car
So what about scooters with no clutch and no shifting,... can use car oil?
scooter has a dry clutch
Deal all how are you.
I am so confused regarding oil for my bike.
I have purchased cbr600r 2012 model
Can i use shell hx7 5w 30 in it
The manual says 10w 30
But this grade is not available in my country.
2nd: there is written (fuel economy) on lable.
Should i use it?
Is okey to use MC oil into a car?
There is shell hx6 semi synthetic also available
10w 40 grade.
There is nothing written on label.
Total qurtz oil is available here.
10w 40 sythetic based
I have no experience of total oiL.
Which oil should i use???
Kindly help
Can I put motorcycle oil in my car (10w40)?
I just did a oil change on my truck, then put the oil into my quad and put the old quad oil into my bike, been doing this for about 4-6 years, have had to replace my quad engine twice and my bike engine 4 times, saves a whole bunch of money on oil, but costs more in engine replacements, but its nice telling everyone you just replaced your engine, makes them think your a real man....i also cant afford to live in a home, i sleep under my truck covered in oil, because i also dont believe in gaskets, im kinda like the opposite of a flat earther
Hi .. sir i just bought 2012 suzuki boulevard C50 ... what kind of oil engine can i change .. i dont have the manual book .. thank you .
kind of a weird question here, I left new motorcycle oil sealed in a bottle in an unheated shed over the winter, the lowest temperature's got to -25 something. Would this potentially ruin the oil or is it still good to use ?
Freakalope8ball no it won’t
Would still be good
hi, i by mistake put car oil in my bike ... i hv a 220cc bike instead of Shell AX5 20w50 i put Shell HX3 20w50 and it says high mileage on Shell HX3 20w50 :(
Hello can I use 10w60 in motorcycle , currently I am using 10 w 50 grade
you clearly did not watch the video.. just look in your owners manual
Very informative guide. Thanks. #diykhan from oxford
Can we use car oil 10w 40 in bike as same grade 10w 40
I have a new Honda CB500. Manual says to use 10W30, however both dealers I've dealt with will put 10W40 and trying to convince me that's ok. Seems like laziness on their part so they don't have to deal with different grades of oil for different bikes. What do you think?
I think it's probably fine I do the same
What is the milage range on a semi-synthtic before you need to change it again? And, can an oil filter be left on and changed every other time? Jesse
We always recommend you check with your owner's manual or consult your dealer for questions about your particular bike.
does the diesel engine oil slips the clutch ?
It is safer than cars oil
@@qaissamen9856 A lot of motorcycle riders (myself included) use Rotella T-5 and 6 Diesel oil and they rarely have clutch issues. I haven't had an issue with my Victory XC.
@@joecader Exactly
Thx mate ❤
Only one Diesel oil, Rotella, has JASO MA on the back of the label. Its not an actual JASO MA certified oil, but Shell has ran the oil through the JASO testing protocol in house, and they self certify that the Rotella oil will be fine in wet clutch applications that would require a JASO MA oil. Many people use Rotella in motorcycles and ATV's becuase the stuff is cheap and it flat out works.
Is any motorcycle oil better for your bike then car oil, like superteack motorcycle oil, is it ok. I hear that it's the same oil as Mobil one, just no advertisement to raise the price. Thanks. I use it in my 1985 honda goldwing limited edition 1200cc.
Years ago one of my friends worked for W-mart tire and lube, and according to his sources Supertech was Mobil in those days and he swore by it being better than many of the name brands.
Mobil 1 synthetic for UTV will it work
Can I use car engine oil in a dry clutch scooter?
Wrong! Just like my semi truck. I have oil analysis done each oil change. 15 dollars a piece to have checked. Both are doing fine. 20w50 Valvoline motorcycle is what I use.
Ive been running castrol GTX on my forza 250 for a years, its better than OEM,
lol.. thats a cvt bike. its clutch is way back at the rear wheel
What's with the energy conserving in the oil label Do to my motorcycle engine.?
makes the clutch slip
I used Multi grade car oil for my motorcycle,, but they had the same rate 10w-40, it will cause damage on my motorcycle engine? thanks for the help.
Yes, over time.
We know that wet clutch motorcycle oil must have the JASO MA and JASO MA2 specification. But what about motorcycle engines with dry clutches like cars (boxer BMWs before 2012)? These don't necessarily need to use oil with anti-slip additives and could use car oil, I suppose. What would you say about it?
can i use a additive
on my motorcycle
You might want to elaborate on what you are trying to achieve with the additive, ie. stop smoke or stop leak. so they know what you exactly mean.
can i use a car motor oil to motorbike ?
Tks fr the video , simple and nice...I use 10-40 car oil on my Burgman 400 for 15 years now and no problem at all...best oil for scooters is the car oil...am i wrong ?
what do u mean by best?
15years thats impressive! But how many miles ! 100? 100,000?
And the Burg 400 have a belt .i wouldnt drive with car oil. I wouldnt put car oil in the gearbox (at rear wheel) either.
But if you want to save money, thats okey! But dont lame Suzuki!
What happen when i use diesel engine oil to lubricate motorcycle engine? That can damage the engine or not?
Just like the vid says mate, check the ratings and viscosity with the manual, I run a 15/40 diesel in my cb900f
@@EssentialComment Exactly.
Only one Diesel oil, Rotella, has JASO MA on the back of the label. Its not an actual JASO MA certified oil, but Shell has ran the oil through the JASO testing protocol in house, and they self certify that the Rotella oil will be fine in wet clutch applications that would require a JASO MA oil. Many people use Rotella in motorcycles and ATV's becuase the stuff is cheap and it flat out works.