Want to learn sand casting using your 3D printer? I can teach you: paulsmakeracademy.mykajabi.com/joinus STL here: www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-gingery-carriage-by-paul-s-garage-445117 Where to find the ZA-12 Metal:www.rotometals.com/zamak-za-12-mini-ingots-pack-of-12-1lb-each-free-shipping/?srsltid=AfmBOop69r2w5IlXAoRScRan0KanYU0WdETNIox3EAj2LftdmyfgBAaN Find the books here: amzn.to/3KztaSR (large one) amzn.to/3zVWgHe (small one) Playlist from the beginning: ruclips.net/p/PL-aAeRpJou31mz7uAB0-bqHXpO43rYRKy&si=lILMMHSASQZg4mcH
I originally came to your channel for the Gingery lathe, but your pursuit of better casting methods was what kept me! I'm always astonished when your sand casts come out with fine details like layer lines or scotch tape preserved
How did I never see this channel before. One of my favorite channels in the past, but went dark a few years back, made a Gingery lathe. One of his problems was cleaning up the castings and making them flat. He slightly oversized them because he knew wasn't the best at casting and sanded the life out of them. He had a surface plate to put the sandpaper on and check for flatness. It was fun watching him go insane, but now I miss his videos.
Paul, Thanks for another great video. I think there's a lot to be said for a casting that's rough but good enough. The new casting is pretty nice though. I do want to put in a plug for using pure zinc as a substitute for cast iron. Zinc has a density of around 7.14 g/cm³ while Zamak 12 has a density of approximately 6.0 g/cm³. And zinc is very, very close to cast iron. The density of zinc is around 7.14 g/cm³ while the density of cast iron is typically around 7.20 g/cm³. Keep up the good work.! Cheers from Alaska
super cool that not only are the tape lines present but also the holes are identifiable which would help with drilling if you didn't want to bother with using the pattern to get them located.
So... aluminum *can* be vibration damping, but it requires adding enough silicon to make it hypereutectic (>12.5% Si). The excess silicon forms a granular precipitated phase, similar to carbon nodules in cast iron, and has a similar damping effect. But you need a lot of it. Silicon also helps with fluidity and shrinkage, since it expands on freezing like water. Though it does also require higher pouring temperatures (700C or higher). For shrinkage, you have 3 main options: Reducing thickness in problem areas (which you did here),adding big risers over the problem areas to act as feeders, or adding chills by the large sections to drive directional solidification. Or, mix and match for greater benefit!
Hurrah! It's that most wonderful time of year, when the Gingery gets a drop of progress! xD For your drain/air holes, you can just use a scrap of randomnes on the floor to dip in the wet resin, an drop it on the hole, then blast with a UV torch add another drop, and voila, hole magically gone forever! :) Love the results, that's done really well, quite impressive results with that alloy, and your much improved sand casting skillz xD I wanna agressively push the idea of adding complex engravings onto non-important surfaces, with few button clicks, for free, so the pieces are super personalised, and easy enough to sand cast (or lost resin cast even) :)
I was shocked that the tape showed up in the final casting. It's crazy how much detail can be captured with Petrobond. I'm guessing it looks much coarser on video than it actually is.
I laughed at "I promise it wont be like a year away this time" all good Paul. I'm physched to see it going again. I need to actually rebuild my southbend sitting in a box of parts, or hear me out I could spend a few years sand-casting one.
He baaaaaaaack baby!!!!! No shit, i thought since restarting the series you had uploaded some videos I missed so very couple of months I'd go to your channel if there were new uploads... And today is the day baby!!!!
Man when I got started, I stayed the heck away from zinc alloys like they were Cobalt 60. I was so worried about fumes, but also you know, growing up with industrial zinc castings being a sign of "this is cheap junk that they didn't bother to make out of brass"... And then you started on the ZA-12 journey, and I bought a bunch from rotometals when they started offering the small hobbyist ingots that fit in the graphite crucibles, just to see... Hoo boy. casting with ZA-12 is like having super powers, or a magic wand. Suddenly all the weird thin walls that were not at all possible can be right there in my finished work! The surface finish is great right out of the mold, even with *green sand!* (actually I get better finer finish with green than I do with PB, but that's down to particulate grain size and stuff - diatomaceous earth is extremely fine amorphous silica. You know, sand. SiO2. Just not crystalline, so very very very fine texture.) I don't Discord at all anymore - having fewer scattered socials accounts has been a good thing - but I ougtta make an exception and show you some pictures. Anyway, thanks for spreading the good word on the ZA-12. I have some thoughts about PID controller calibration on those electric furnaces, also, to get the temperature reading to be more accurate, but I haven't tried, so it's just speculation right now.
i have an Atlas 618 lathe (6x18), circa 1950ish and it uses Zamak for the change gears, half nuts, carriage gears, the backgear/bullgear unfortunately and handwheels my backgear has pretty much lost 3 or 4 teeth so its useless but the fact it survived this long is pretty good, the halfnut is all broken as well, but that's par for the course zamac is pretty decent for what it is, cheap and easy to work with
I see "Paul's Garage"-upload, I give it a Like and a comment, I watch various on YT, and save Paul´s video for prime-time (so, thanks for helping me avoid all those Blockbusters on TV, they get worse and worse)...
This is probably gonna be very helpful to me im turning a 1930s wood lathe with metal accessories available into a clock lathe so i can get into machining with the eventual goal of starting a horse drawn equipment shop that remanufactures parts for my draft Horse and Amish friends + i really love steam engines and want a steam tractor and a miniature locomotive but cost is prohibitively expensive unless.... i just learn a ton stuff i already have great interest in
Tips for sanding/finishing aluminum, lubricate the sand paper/drum sander/whatever abrasive with wd40 or gun oil if you have it. Keeps the sand paper from gumming up, wax (paste wax works best imo) or even a bar of soap rubbed on the paper before you start sanding also helps prevent it from happening too!
The interesting thing about gingery's book. Growing up, i had a 1945 edition of The Boy Machanic. Everything in gingery's book has a earlier version of the same thing. I also have the first 4 books first editions. Pretty sure gingery just updated those books. On most things anyway. But good job.
Nice progress I think. I'm a bit back with sand casting projects but next year hopefully can continue and will review your sand casting videos for sure.
I'd like to see print settings. I'm running into a similar problem with my resin printer. Already got better resin and started messing with exposure settings. Cleaned it up a bit but it's far from perfect.
The pin holes is called porosity and different metals have different amounts it just air bubbles. Before you put your two halves of your mold together brush them with alcohol and light them on fire it evaporates any moisture on the surface of your sand that's trapped.
I have a natural distrust of zinc alloys, on paper zamac has great properties, better than your typical 356 aluminium, but in practice every piece if cast zinc alloy I've worked with has been a mess. It corrodes like that's its job, you'll have to think about galvanic corosion where it contacts those ways, maybe include a sacrificial annode. I hope you have a better experience with Zamac than the zinc alloys i've had to deal with, I'll stick with brass for now.
So a trick they used to do on cast iron parts and i suppose modern cast steal parts today is anything that matters, like mating surface, they will cast oversized and then machine down to size. That reduces rejects and reduced machining. I suppose you don't have a mill but you do have Sanders.
Yes, to this day foundry patterns for all cast parts (nonferrous as well) that will need to be machined still have machining allowance built into them. If they didn't, and machined castings still reliably fit their designated locations and performed their functions properly? Why now THAT would be a trick! 😁 The old man did include machining allowances where necessary in the plans for the all of the patterns for the machines in his books, rest assured. The Gingery milling machine isn't until book 4 though. First Paul has to finish the lathe from book 2 in order to machine cast parts for the shaper (book 3)... Maybe we'll see it happen one day. I'm the last person in the world to doubt it - I built the charcoal furnace from book 1 in 2013 and I *still* believe I'll build the lathe one day!
Nice Job. All of those defects seem to be mostly cosmetic. If you had a mill or shaper, you could probably clean it up with machining. Either way, it does show progress. Don't promise what you can't reasonable deliver... =D Anyways, I'm here for the journey. Thanks for posting the video and Merry Christmas! ~Mike
Would vibrating the box while you pour it and it cools be helpful and maybe heating up the sand too? I don’t know I’ve never done casting yet, but I am trying to explore.
looks good enough to me , if you where to have (a friend with) a milling machine you could machine it to perfect size , then again you could cast a solid block and just machine it intoo the shape you need thats actually a pretty large piece you casted using that small melter makes me wonder if my home grid would be able to take 3 of those running at the same time ..... and enough time to cast all three intoo one mould one after the other sumting i allso wonder about and might be usefull when the lathe is done : i seen people cast aluminum rods using a metal seamless pipe , after cooling the alimunum schrinks enough to fall out , problen is that you can only cast this long a piece with the amound of aluminum per melt and or the length of the pipe used and there inclusion or porious bits in there that show up when machining the part wat i was thinking was to plug the bottom of the pipe for the first pour and while the aluminum is still somewat malluable put it under an hydraulic press and press it partway out of the pipe , this should compact it some and should make the aluminum a little stronger with less inclusions , after that keep pooring more amuminum in and press it out a little further after each poor probably need to experiment alittle for the amount of time needed to cool the metal enough to compress it without making the claylike aluminum shoot past the press toward the top and still have it hot enough so it doesnt stick intoo the pipe once cooled , might allso experiance problems with inclusions or even the different poors not welding together intoo a single long bar might be interesting to try out for a video
Not only a sexy cast, but such a vast improvment too. Though I'd love to see if Paul can manage it or something similar in Aluminium now with 5 years of extra learning of it picking the right metal really has solved all his problems.
even with the wrong aluminum alloy I would be able to do it with a HUGE improvement. 95% of the issue is the mold making. the "mystery" aluminum is actually scrap A380, not the right alloy but not horrible. The extra shrinkage from aluminum (and then even more for a380) could be fixed with a feeder like I describe in the video. Actually i cut out the detailed explanation because the video was too long, but it wouldn't be hard to do.
@@PaulsGarage I know in theory it shouldn't be that tricky. But I also know how well theory translates to the real world the first few times you try something, even if you spend the time to really do the math first there is always little bit of artform/experience in making the perfectly calculated actually happen in the real world. So the question really is do you have the knowledge/feel for that harder material to cast? Which as I've not seen you do Allly casting in ages I suspect you don't really have yet - know how to get of course, won't take as many attempts to get a good result etc. But...
I don't retain much information when watching a video, but did you mention what sort of sand you used all those years ago on the first casting? I remember a time when you switched from Petrobond to green sand and then back again. Nice casting by the way (pun?)
@@PaulsGarage My mistake. I blame my memory for my mistakes, it refuses to believe me. If and when I get back into casting I will try oil bound sand. I think I could rig up a fan extractor in my garage.
how does za12 take to hammering? maybeeeee bending? ive got some bracelets I want to do a test pour on but wondering if ill be able to shape the bars around the mandrel? or should I just go with the bronze and call it a day...ive go so much za 12
Re: Measuring. I have an SLA printer and it calculates volumes for prints. Does FDM have anything like that? (Maybe feet of filament which can be calculated to a volume?) I’m getting ready to buy a FDM printer because my daughter likes dragons that are 279,732 different colors and SLA is more high brow than that. 😂 Recommendations on an FDM printer for stuff like this?
FDM slicers will give you a weight and a length in filament line, yes. I don't have any super modern FDM printers, but I've had good luck with the mingda magician pro2, and the prusa mk3. I have a k1 max and an ender 3 v3 ke, both which print great but aren't as reliable.
@@PaulsGarage I also, for a long time now, have wanted to tell you that you’d fit in with my buddy group big time. We even have a guy that you remind me of. He’s one of those hybrid gingers though. 😂 Blonde hair and a big red beard.
The slicers all include an estimate of filament consumption and even print time, but with multicolour prints depending on the exact method it can start to get really quite wasteful in filament. So if you want a huge number of colours might I suggest just printing in white and investing in some acrylic pen markers so you daughter can get any colour they like relatively quick and cleanly even if she isn't really ready or interested to handle paintbrush. I've not tried them myself but the Speedpaint markers seem to be well enough liked by the folks that have tried them.
Paul, 5:12 sink? I use a modified version of this: ruclips.net/video/gSmnwH3fF2E/видео.htmlfeature=shared I coupled that with a 12V pump, so I can run it off batteries, wall, or hose pressure. I need to finish a coupler to adapt MHT to the crazy metric thread, but should be fine!
Can anyone explain to me why content creators add a barely audible music track behind their videos? The monotony of it is maddening. It kinda makes the content difficult to watch, at least for me.
I was more implying the lack of soul. Hahaha I’ve been building a foundry for iron for the last 4 years (not because it’s hard, but because I have 3700 hobbies 😂) I’m aware how horrible it’s going to be. What’s that you ask? My foundry’s name? It’s Burn-y Sanders. 😊
Should go watch the precision casting they do with inconel jet turbine blades. Coating the stuff with thin coat of plaster and using something like lost foam or lost wax pattern can end up a with almost flawless part. Zinc alloy people used to call pot metal and considered almost garbage. The aluminum alloy they use for casting isnt complicated, its like Aluminum plus some amount of silicon.
Want to learn sand casting using your 3D printer? I can teach you: paulsmakeracademy.mykajabi.com/joinus
STL here: www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-gingery-carriage-by-paul-s-garage-445117
Where to find the ZA-12 Metal:www.rotometals.com/zamak-za-12-mini-ingots-pack-of-12-1lb-each-free-shipping/?srsltid=AfmBOop69r2w5IlXAoRScRan0KanYU0WdETNIox3EAj2LftdmyfgBAaN
Find the books here: amzn.to/3KztaSR (large one) amzn.to/3zVWgHe (small one)
Playlist from the beginning: ruclips.net/p/PL-aAeRpJou31mz7uAB0-bqHXpO43rYRKy&si=lILMMHSASQZg4mcH
you brought up SHRINKAGE so much I started hearing George Costanza yammering about the temperature of the Atlantic Ocean.
Glad to see you didn't waste any time getting to the next video in this series...
So excited for more lathe videos
Me too!
Me too !
I originally came to your channel for the Gingery lathe, but your pursuit of better casting methods was what kept me! I'm always astonished when your sand casts come out with fine details like layer lines or scotch tape preserved
How did I never see this channel before. One of my favorite channels in the past, but went dark a few years back, made a Gingery lathe. One of his problems was cleaning up the castings and making them flat. He slightly oversized them because he knew wasn't the best at casting and sanded the life out of them. He had a surface plate to put the sandpaper on and check for flatness. It was fun watching him go insane, but now I miss his videos.
Paul,
Thanks for another great video.
I think there's a lot to be said for a casting that's rough but good enough. The new casting is pretty nice though. I do want to put in a plug for using pure zinc as a substitute for cast iron.
Zinc has a density of around 7.14 g/cm³ while Zamak 12 has a density of approximately 6.0 g/cm³. And zinc is very, very close to cast iron. The density of zinc is around 7.14 g/cm³ while the density of cast iron is typically around 7.20 g/cm³.
Keep up the good work.!
Cheers from Alaska
This video is what I wanted for Christmas ish
Ho ho ho?
super cool that not only are the tape lines present but also the holes are identifiable which would help with drilling if you didn't want to bother with using the pattern to get them located.
I didn't think about that until I was editing 🤣🤣 I missed an opportunity there
Both of those castings look better than my final carriage casting! Nice to see progress being made on this. Can't wait to see you scraping this in!
The goal is getting better everyday and you are doing it sir!!!!
Inching closer to a working lathe. Just 20 more years!
So... aluminum *can* be vibration damping, but it requires adding enough silicon to make it hypereutectic (>12.5% Si). The excess silicon forms a granular precipitated phase, similar to carbon nodules in cast iron, and has a similar damping effect. But you need a lot of it. Silicon also helps with fluidity and shrinkage, since it expands on freezing like water. Though it does also require higher pouring temperatures (700C or higher).
For shrinkage, you have 3 main options: Reducing thickness in problem areas (which you did here),adding big risers over the problem areas to act as feeders, or adding chills by the large sections to drive directional solidification. Or, mix and match for greater benefit!
I always love seeing gingery projects come to life.
Hurrah! It's that most wonderful time of year, when the Gingery gets a drop of progress! xD
For your drain/air holes, you can just use a scrap of randomnes on the floor to dip in the wet resin, an drop it on the hole, then blast with a UV torch add another drop, and voila, hole magically gone forever! :)
Love the results, that's done really well, quite impressive results with that alloy, and your much improved sand casting skillz xD
I wanna agressively push the idea of adding complex engravings onto non-important surfaces, with few button clicks, for free, so the pieces are super personalised, and easy enough to sand cast (or lost resin cast even) :)
Engravings, eh? I think you gave me an idea 🤔
Yes, engravings!
I was shocked that the tape showed up in the final casting. It's crazy how much detail can be captured with Petrobond. I'm guessing it looks much coarser on video than it actually is.
I laughed at "I promise it wont be like a year away this time" all good Paul. I'm physched to see it going again. I need to actually rebuild my southbend sitting in a box of parts, or hear me out I could spend a few years sand-casting one.
Beautiful casting! Really shows the experience you’ve gained in the last 5 years. Can’t wait for the next Gingery vid!
He baaaaaaaack baby!!!!! No shit, i thought since restarting the series you had uploaded some videos I missed so very couple of months I'd go to your channel if there were new uploads... And today is the day baby!!!!
Man when I got started, I stayed the heck away from zinc alloys like they were Cobalt 60. I was so worried about fumes, but also you know, growing up with industrial zinc castings being a sign of "this is cheap junk that they didn't bother to make out of brass"...
And then you started on the ZA-12 journey, and I bought a bunch from rotometals when they started offering the small hobbyist ingots that fit in the graphite crucibles, just to see...
Hoo boy. casting with ZA-12 is like having super powers, or a magic wand. Suddenly all the weird thin walls that were not at all possible can be right there in my finished work! The surface finish is great right out of the mold, even with *green sand!* (actually I get better finer finish with green than I do with PB, but that's down to particulate grain size and stuff - diatomaceous earth is extremely fine amorphous silica. You know, sand. SiO2. Just not crystalline, so very very very fine texture.)
I don't Discord at all anymore - having fewer scattered socials accounts has been a good thing - but I ougtta make an exception and show you some pictures. Anyway, thanks for spreading the good word on the ZA-12. I have some thoughts about PID controller calibration on those electric furnaces, also, to get the temperature reading to be more accurate, but I haven't tried, so it's just speculation right now.
looks great! I purchased a amazon Electric Furnace because of you. Its should be good times following along. Thanks
i have an Atlas 618 lathe (6x18), circa 1950ish and it uses Zamak for the change gears, half nuts, carriage gears, the backgear/bullgear unfortunately and handwheels
my backgear has pretty much lost 3 or 4 teeth so its useless but the fact it survived this long is pretty good, the halfnut is all broken as well, but that's par for the course
zamac is pretty decent for what it is, cheap and easy to work with
You're tooo hard on yourself, good job, thanks for sharing!
I see "Paul's Garage"-upload, I give it a Like and a comment, I watch various on YT, and save Paul´s video for prime-time (so, thanks for helping me avoid all those Blockbusters on TV, they get worse and worse)...
Ooooh progress on the lathe 😊 Excellent 😊 Merry Christmas 🎉
This is probably gonna be very helpful to me im turning a 1930s wood lathe with metal accessories available into a clock lathe so i can get into machining with the eventual goal of starting a horse drawn equipment shop that remanufactures parts for my draft Horse and Amish friends + i really love steam engines and want a steam tractor and a miniature locomotive but cost is prohibitively expensive unless.... i just learn a ton stuff i already have great interest in
Good to see your back at this project sir! I hope to see more in the new year to come!
Great work on both the casting and the video! Well done!
Tips for sanding/finishing aluminum, lubricate the sand paper/drum sander/whatever abrasive with wd40 or gun oil if you have it. Keeps the sand paper from gumming up, wax (paste wax works best imo) or even a bar of soap rubbed on the paper before you start sanding also helps prevent it from happening too!
The interesting thing about gingery's book. Growing up, i had a 1945 edition of The Boy Machanic. Everything in gingery's book has a earlier version of the same thing. I also have the first 4 books first editions. Pretty sure gingery just updated those books. On most things anyway. But good job.
LOVE TO SEE ANOTHER VIDEO ON THIS!!!
Yayy lathe videos!! Thinking of making my own soon
Nicely done! The part looks great! Merry Christmas! God bless!
Nice progress I think. I'm a bit back with sand casting projects but next year hopefully can continue and will review your sand casting videos for sure.
I'd like to see print settings. I'm running into a similar problem with my resin printer. Already got better resin and started messing with exposure settings. Cleaned it up a bit but it's far from perfect.
Love to see you're making progress. How much planning have you done for the next videos?
Hi Paul. A New idea : pla ->silicon->clay or lime->aluminium ! Yesss (reusable mold)
The pin holes is called porosity and different metals have different amounts it just air bubbles. Before you put your two halves of your mold together brush them with alcohol and light them on fire it evaporates any moisture on the surface of your sand that's trapped.
I have a natural distrust of zinc alloys, on paper zamac has great properties, better than your typical 356 aluminium, but in practice every piece if cast zinc alloy I've worked with has been a mess. It corrodes like that's its job, you'll have to think about galvanic corosion where it contacts those ways, maybe include a sacrificial annode.
I hope you have a better experience with Zamac than the zinc alloys i've had to deal with, I'll stick with brass for now.
^ this
I want a drunken beaver with high speed steel teeth now! Or sharks with lasers on the head! 😄
Fricken' sharks?
It's kind of a waste of material but you want a riser that is double or triple the volume of the area being cast
Just melt candle wax in the holes, press the halves together and then shave off the extra wax with a razor flush with the surface of the casting.
So a trick they used to do on cast iron parts and i suppose modern cast steal parts today is anything that matters, like mating surface, they will cast oversized and then machine down to size. That reduces rejects and reduced machining. I suppose you don't have a mill but you do have Sanders.
Yes, to this day foundry patterns for all cast parts (nonferrous as well) that will need to be machined still have machining allowance built into them. If they didn't, and machined castings still reliably fit their designated locations and performed their functions properly? Why now THAT would be a trick! 😁
The old man did include machining allowances where necessary in the plans for the all of the patterns for the machines in his books, rest assured. The Gingery milling machine isn't until book 4 though. First Paul has to finish the lathe from book 2 in order to machine cast parts for the shaper (book 3)... Maybe we'll see it happen one day. I'm the last person in the world to doubt it - I built the charcoal furnace from book 1 in 2013 and I *still* believe I'll build the lathe one day!
"Jerry! You gotta go tell her! Its the Atlantic Ocean! Its very cold" "very cold" "SHRINKAGE JERRY!" < I will always remember that episode.
Nice Job. All of those defects seem to be mostly cosmetic. If you had a mill or shaper, you could probably clean it up with machining. Either way, it does show progress. Don't promise what you can't reasonable deliver... =D Anyways, I'm here for the journey. Thanks for posting the video and Merry Christmas! ~Mike
Merry Christmas to you too!
so, to make the aluminum last (and hold tolerances) versus steel ways, you have to lube it like crazy every use? maybe a special concoction?
Would vibrating the box while you pour it and it cools be helpful and maybe heating up the sand too? I don’t know I’ve never done casting yet, but I am trying to explore.
How many hotwheels would it take to make a whole lathe?
Those pin holes or blisters as you call them. are probably dissolved hydrogen from moisture in the air during the pour.
looks good enough to me , if you where to have (a friend with) a milling machine you could machine it to perfect size , then again you could cast a solid block and just machine it intoo the shape you need
thats actually a pretty large piece you casted using that small melter makes me wonder if my home grid would be able to take 3 of those running at the same time ..... and enough time to cast all three intoo one mould one after the other
sumting i allso wonder about and might be usefull when the lathe is done : i seen people cast aluminum rods using a metal seamless pipe , after cooling the alimunum schrinks enough to fall out , problen is that you can only cast this long a piece with the amound of aluminum per melt and or the length of the pipe used and there inclusion or porious bits in there that show up when machining the part
wat i was thinking was to plug the bottom of the pipe for the first pour and while the aluminum is still somewat malluable put it under an hydraulic press and press it partway out of the pipe , this should compact it some and should make the aluminum a little stronger with less inclusions , after that keep pooring more amuminum in and press it out a little further after each poor
probably need to experiment alittle for the amount of time needed to cool the metal enough to compress it without making the claylike aluminum shoot past the press toward the top and still have it hot enough so it doesnt stick intoo the pipe once cooled , might allso experiance problems with inclusions or even the different poors not welding together intoo a single long bar
might be interesting to try out for a video
Get some card scrappers or cabinet scrappers. They are infinitely better than sand paper for leveling out those prints.
That is a sexy cast! You should be proud!!
Is this lathe using the old concrete method later on?
Not sure. I'll definitely consider it, it worked really well for Makercise.
Not only a sexy cast, but such a vast improvment too. Though I'd love to see if Paul can manage it or something similar in Aluminium now with 5 years of extra learning of it picking the right metal really has solved all his problems.
even with the wrong aluminum alloy I would be able to do it with a HUGE improvement. 95% of the issue is the mold making. the "mystery" aluminum is actually scrap A380, not the right alloy but not horrible. The extra shrinkage from aluminum (and then even more for a380) could be fixed with a feeder like I describe in the video. Actually i cut out the detailed explanation because the video was too long, but it wouldn't be hard to do.
@@PaulsGarage I know in theory it shouldn't be that tricky. But I also know how well theory translates to the real world the first few times you try something, even if you spend the time to really do the math first there is always little bit of artform/experience in making the perfectly calculated actually happen in the real world. So the question really is do you have the knowledge/feel for that harder material to cast?
Which as I've not seen you do Allly casting in ages I suspect you don't really have yet - know how to get of course, won't take as many attempts to get a good result etc. But...
I don't retain much information when watching a video, but did you mention what sort of sand you used all those years ago on the first casting? I remember a time when you switched from Petrobond to green sand and then back again. Nice casting by the way (pun?)
Petrobond all the way. I have never switched to anything else, but I know swdweeb switched to green sand. I was considering it. Just never did it
@@PaulsGarage My mistake. I blame my memory for my mistakes, it refuses to believe me. If and when I get back into casting I will try oil bound sand. I think I could rig up a fan extractor in my garage.
how does za12 take to hammering? maybeeeee bending? ive got some bracelets I want to do a test pour on but wondering if ill be able to shape the bars around the mandrel? or should I just go with the bronze and call it a day...ive go so much za 12
Is the zamak strong enough for these kind of applications?
What do you recommend for putting cores together? Like gluing them with sand or something?
When i make cores it's just out of petrobond, nothing special
what is the weight difference?
Re: Measuring. I have an SLA printer and it calculates volumes for prints. Does FDM have anything like that? (Maybe feet of filament which can be calculated to a volume?) I’m getting ready to buy a FDM printer because my daughter likes dragons that are 279,732 different colors and SLA is more high brow than that. 😂 Recommendations on an FDM printer for stuff like this?
FDM slicers will give you a weight and a length in filament line, yes. I don't have any super modern FDM printers, but I've had good luck with the mingda magician pro2, and the prusa mk3. I have a k1 max and an ender 3 v3 ke, both which print great but aren't as reliable.
@@PaulsGarage I also, for a long time now, have wanted to tell you that you’d fit in with my buddy group big time. We even have a guy that you remind me of. He’s one of those hybrid gingers though. 😂 Blonde hair and a big red beard.
Haha i have a shirt that says "ginger beard man" on it, you could get one for him
The slicers all include an estimate of filament consumption and even print time, but with multicolour prints depending on the exact method it can start to get really quite wasteful in filament. So if you want a huge number of colours might I suggest just printing in white and investing in some acrylic pen markers so you daughter can get any colour they like relatively quick and cleanly even if she isn't really ready or interested to handle paintbrush. I've not tried them myself but the Speedpaint markers seem to be well enough liked by the folks that have tried them.
If you have a lathe, you can make a better lathe.
See you next year
it probably will be next year lol i don't think i can crank out another one this week
@@PaulsGarage Why not? Are you spending time with your family or something?
You need a pneumatic sand rammer
Paul, 5:12 sink? I use a modified version of this:
ruclips.net/video/gSmnwH3fF2E/видео.htmlfeature=shared
I coupled that with a 12V pump, so I can run it off batteries, wall, or hose pressure. I need to finish a coupler to adapt MHT to the crazy metric thread, but should be fine!
That's a really cool idea!
Can anyone explain to me why content creators add a barely audible music track behind their videos? The monotony of it is maddening. It kinda makes the content difficult to watch, at least for me.
Damn right, it's terribly wearing on the ears
Your soul, sir? 😂
Try it.. you will quickly learn. it’s no understatement. 😂
I was more implying the lack of soul. Hahaha I’ve been building a foundry for iron for the last 4 years (not because it’s hard, but because I have 3700 hobbies 😂) I’m aware how horrible it’s going to be. What’s that you ask? My foundry’s name? It’s Burn-y Sanders. 😊
@god910 I am a ginger, it's true
I instinctively blew on the screen when you were sanding...
over sise and mill down to spec.
I subed for the leathe vids i wasn't married when i subscribed now i have kids
Only 9 months away? Might be time to take a rest on making things that take 9 months to finish.
The next one of those arrives the end of march... 🤣
He said he was going to do a lathe video, and then he did one... What kind of topsy tervy world are we living in!?!?!
I think 99% of fans only heard of him because Amazon started carrying his books around 2010....after his death
Modeling for manufacturing in Blender? I guess...
17:50 me likes drunken beavers.
HA! Yeah, we'll see you in a year...
Thought this was dead
I feel dead sometimes but this was just on hold 🤣
11:38 ... you need to graduate to an actual air powered die grinder bro. that's all there is to it.
Should go watch the precision casting they do with inconel jet turbine blades. Coating the stuff with thin coat of plaster and using something like lost foam or lost wax pattern can end up a with almost flawless part. Zinc alloy people used to call pot metal and considered almost garbage. The aluminum alloy they use for casting isnt complicated, its like Aluminum plus some amount of silicon.
Your soul, sir? 😂
It was REALLY hot