How To Use And Care For The Leather Round Knife
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 16 апр 2012
- The 4-3/8" blade of the round knife, also known as the head knife, is stainless steel and polished to a mirror-like finish that helps it easily glide through thick leathers like saddle skirting. The unique engraving, solid brass bolster and hardwood handle makes this knife pieces of art. The handle is contoured to give you an easy, secure grip so you can work faster with complete control. Head knives are one of the most versatile and most used tools for cutting and skiving of the thinnest to the heaviest of leathers. The head knife is also commonly referred to as a round knife. Once you have mastered this tool, you will wonder how you could have ever leathercrafted without it.
Stock no. #35014-00
Refer to Al Stohlman's Leathercraft Tools book #61960-00 for detailed instructions on the proper use of this amazing tool.
You can order Round Knives here: www.tandyleather.com/en/produ...
Interested in more video leathercraft instruction? Visit www.leathercraftlibrary.com/t-....
LeathercraftLibrary.com offers videos by subscription for every level of leathercrafter.
Whether a beginner or a master, you're sure to expand your leathercraft knowledge and skills by watching our instructional videos. By subscribing, you'll have access to videos from master leather artists such as George Hurst, Tony Laier, Jim Linnell and Charlie Davenport.
Once you subscribe, you'll be able to view videos in how-to categories that include: Basic Leathercraft, Stamping, Coloring, Figure/Pictorial Carving, Lacing & Stitching, Advance Techniques, Tools and more. Project categories include videos on how to make belts, holsters, knife cases, saddle bags, notebooks, steampunk accessories, home decor items and more.
For Premium Leathercraft Instructional Videos, visit www.leathercraftlibrary.com/t-....
It's crazy how much work Al Stohlman produced. Besides the probably unimaginable amount of wonderful leather work he did, he somehow found the time to write out and draw multiple beautiful pictures of every single thing he knew how to do.
Dallas Van Winkle He's left behind an incredible legacy of leathercraft. If you ever find yourself in the Dallas/Fort Worth area, much of his original art is hosted at the Tandy Leather Museum & Gallery in Fort Worth, TX.
Great information Sir
I just bought my first round knife and your video is very helpful! Thank you!
This video has helped me understand how to use this knife much easier, thanks !!!
Do u know anything about wm brown newark round knifes
anyone know about a link for the red cutting board he showed/used?
Does the Tandy blade come sharpened or do.i have to buy stones???
He answered that at the beginning of the video
hey Tandy do you think you can redo these videos?
Why? I learned alot from the originals.
More trackers on the Tandy sight than I care to count. 🤨
Site ?
People criticise this man's sharpening technique..but his tools cut fine! ...i am not good at sharpening, hence looking at this video BEFORE deciding to invest in a leather knife. I use a lead knife for stained glass, but can sharpen that ok, but probably not brilliantly! ;)
I finally got one. Thanks for the safety tips & etc.
Thank you for a brilliant interesting and very informative video
Sam
thanks....this knife is a tricky beast for us newbies
I purchased the Al Stohlman head knife from Tandy: The bevel ground at the factory was way too steep to be useful. Basically it was a fat wedge that was sharp, but very difficult to push through anything but the thinnest of leathers. I had to remove a lot of metal to get an edge that was of a proper knife bevel before the knife would cut properly. The head knife worked great after that, but was virtually useless beforehand. So, be prepared to spend so up front time on the initial sharpening. This is often the case for many tool blades sold commercially. FYI: I have been using and sharpening hand tool blade for over 30 years. I started forging my own blade about 5 years ago.
I'm thankful for this comment, I just bought an Al Stohlman and the force required to make cuts is very inconsistent. It's taken a lot of active thinking to not lose sight of safety when trying to get the knife to just go through the leather.
I've learned to control the angle more, which helps, but sometimes it feels like the knife refuses to budge and then other times it cuts as smooth as butter.. usually when I'm not expecting it and it causes me to cut outside the line.
I'm not great at sharpening, which makes the idea of working down the edge is stressful -- but it's always painful before it's smooth.
there should be a knife sharpening service near you that might be able to reduce the blade thickness / increase the taper. When this blade is cut to the right profile and sharpened, it cuts great. In hind sight there are much better blades out there.@@cthecheese1620
Thank you
That was cool
Thanks for your reply, that was also what I thought, just wanted to make sure. Anyway, even if I wanted I could not pass through the entire sharpening process every time I pick up the knife. Happy shaving! I mean... crafting! :-)
I believe he means strop it every time you pick it up. I like to think about ol' timey barber shop shavers that would slap the straight razor on the leather strop before shaving the customer lol.
como adquirir um manual desses..?????
Hello! What size of this knife?
Great video thanks. If you dont get a straight line, whats the best way to trim it straight if you dont have the strip knife tool?
Anthony Meehan,
The knife isn't what will give you a straight line. Using a metal ruler, or any kind of straight edge while cutting provides the straight line.
The quality of the knife will just make it easier.
i think the correct answer is "practice"
even when using a straight edge, you end up dulling your knife, and the action of cutting ends up dragging the leather from underneath the straight edge and you finally wind up with a less than perfect edge.
this is especially true with thicker leathers (5-15oz)
Does Tandy sell the bigger knife with the black handle that George is using? I bought the knife you had in the store but, it's a small knife I thought it would be bigger than that. How many different sizes in general do they have on this type of knife, do you know? Thanks for the information. Tammy
Tammy Altic, that knife he is using is a CS Osbourne knife. Tandy used to carry them, but haven’t for close to 20 years. I do believe Weaver leather still carries them.
Why didn't you use the Al Stohlman knife to cut the leather? I want to know how well it holds an edge is why I ask. I use a small wood carving knife at Rc63 hardness for cutting leather and you can believe it holds an edge. I cannot afford the damascus knife, but I can the other, but not if it doesn't hold an edge.
Dear Mr. Hurst, at minute 04:10 you say "You should do this every time you pick up your knife"... Do you mean one should repeat the entire sharpening process every time one pics up the knife or you refer just strictly to stropping the blade before using the knife? Thank you and congratulations for your work!
strop your blade every time before use.
when you notice your blade does not become sharper after stropping, you should use your stone, and then strop.
I'd like to buy yours tools and books from Brazil!
can a Help me?
We ship internationally, so you can get all of your leatherworking tools and books at www.tandyleather.com! Many of our books are also available for purchase in digital form at www.leathercraftlibrary.com.
Tandy Leather Ok, thank you very much Sir!
Sharpening a regular round knife then using a damascus knife to cut it. Can you show instead how sharp the knife you just sharpen?
+tagasak3 This tutorial is specifically for the Round Knife, however the techniques may work for other knives as well!
Defiantly a leather smith. Not too good with sharpening a blade. :D
seriously your sharpening looks realy strange,
he is sharpening a different knife and using another knife to cut the leather.
Everybody's a critic.
Thank you for rhe help
These snowflakes want something for nothimg. Even the finest of knives when actually used will need sharpening.
Also a hard balance to strike between highest quality and affordability.
They say you can buy a better knife for $200-300, then buy it and shut up.
Same people will cry the lesser expensive knives cost too much.
Can't please everyone and can't please some folks period.
Same reason if you produce quality pieces of leatherwork, yourself, you probably will have difficulty getting the value of your time, work and materials for them.
The quality, American made knife that cost $20 in the seventies or eighties now costs $200 if you cam even find it.
Thank the government that wants to give your money away to our enemies and just keep printing more so that it's worthless.
That's not Tandy's fault.
Thanks again for the tips and instruction. You could just keep your tips to yourself and forego the stupid comments.
As much as I admire this man, and I do, I believe his sharpening technique is dragging a lot of residue onto the edge. You should always sharpen in a back-stroke fashion, moving the metal away from the edge. Obviously you can't use a strop like this, but that's not what I'm getting at. If you're using a Lansky or wet-stone, always move away from the edge, never forward or side to side.
You should truly know what you are talking about before passing on information. In this case you do not know anything about sharpening. The gunk you speak of is a slurry of stone particles and metal that has been removed. It is this slurry that does most of the cutting. The cleanest edge is always achieved on the push stroke keep the slurry ahead of the blade. For water stones you have to use a Nagura dressing stone to get the slurry started.
@@billmccaffrey1977 You are wrong
@@dpurplefox Informative.