So I ended up doing this job this past weekend. Replaced the entire valve body and bought a kit online that had oil, seals for the pan, new screws, filter, etc. My symptoms were the car once "warmed up" would get stuck in 3rd gear. You can reset it, but it would immediately get stuck shortly after. Scanner tool said something about solenoid B. Took me about 2 days to complete this job. Not as simple as this video haha. Oil pan plug was seized on mine and had to remove the whole pan instead and ended up dropping the whole thing all over myself. If you drop the entire valve body this spring thing may fall out. It goes spring first and then that metal piece after. It goes at the very top in one of the holes in the corner (You can see the spring at 9:22). Def need that right angle pick to get all the wire connections out (take lots of pics). Eventually got everything back in. This video doesn't show it but other videos show that there is a different plug up top towards the front of the car where you can pump in the fluid. Its a screw holding in a sensor, just slightly pull the sensor out the way and stick your pump inside and fill through there. Apparently you're suppose to have the car on and warmed up while doing this, pump till it started to drip (secondary plug should be tighten, only main plug should be open). Car is shifting and working now, seems like TCM is relearning and because of that the shifts are pretty rough. I do have a code P0715 (input speed sensor) I have to clear every time I turn the car on. Not sure why I am getting that, but will probably end up replacing it wherever that sensor is. Other car shops around my area wanted to charge me around 1K for this job or 1.5-2k USD for a new transmission. I spent probably $400-500 buying all the parts and some tools I needed for this job. Goodluck guys will post and update on that sensor.
i'm doing this job and all the solenoids are the same except the one at the end and you can clearly see the difference (and of course the small ones are different, but both the same and they don't go bad) Clear video on the job, but I note you didn't mention the accumulator that can fall out when you drop the valve body.
Yes, the accumulator is a pain - both when removing and installing. I didn't know what is was called, but that was the piece I need a friends help to place while i was lifting it back in. Thanks for sharing the feedback. Not sure what to make of the differences in the final solenoid.
Thanks for sharing man, I learned alot. I have the 2017 Passat 1.8 tsi with the same transmission and problems, and came across your videos researching. I never even knew how long these transmissions were around. It was a shame to own a car 10 years newer than your beetle with the faulty transmission. I'm looking into replacing the valvebody itself with a reman. or replacing the solenoids like you did.👍
I would have bought a JY valve tore the two apart resurfaced and deep cleanse everything then took the best parts by selectively choosing and rebuild. I’ve done it with just the one in my car and got the same results. That shifting longer is sometimes caused by TORQUE CONVERTER OR INTERNAL PARTS WITHIN TRANSMISSION. Audi recommends replacing the entire unit to prevent these problems but with extra gas between shifts your wouldn’t even notice. Anyway good video to watch. I’ll be rebuilding A6 Quattro this weekend. 😂 And I noticed every time this valve job comes around the vehicle needs exhaust work as well. VW Audi always hits you with the double trouble.
I got a replacement set of solenoids from eBay and noticed: A. theyre same size (I some other videos where the 'new and improved' versions were smaller). B. No paperwork came with so Im gonna try and copy what YOU did - Just look so find similarities in new to old. I hope that does the trick. Come back later to report my findings. 😊
I have a jetta 2.5 engine automatic transmission. Looked like the same setup that you have. I'm not sure if your transmission has a plug up top but instead of pumping ATF fluid from the bottom I just loosened another plug from up top and was able to use a 1/2" clear vinyl tube to feed fluid down in there until it came out the plug from the pan. Then everything else like you said - 35 - 40 C temp and drain till it drips.
I always wonder why nobody uses 4 bolts longer than stock to hold the valve body with a little Clearance to remove solenoids, in that way, the valve body doesn't need to be removed completely from transmission.
Wish I found this video a couple of weeks back when I replaced the solenoids on my daughter's '06 Jetta. Anyway, pieced it together from various videos here. Most guys seem to just replace the whole valve body unfortunately, which isn't a bad way to go, just more costly (especially if it's just your solenoids which are bad). And yes, the numbers and the color of the replacements seem to differ but my 2¢ is that the end one with the squared tip was a b!tch to remove and even harder to install (had to "press" that one in there with a large pair of channel locks) and there was also one of the middle ones which didn't have a "50" on the end but instead a symbol. As far as your solenoids not entirely fixing your issue, are you sure you diagnosed it correctly? Bad solenoids in the 09G usually present themselves as working perfectly fine when cold but once things warm up, that's when the hard shifts and late shifts start. Ours would go into limp mode too when this happened (would miss the shift from 3rd-4th). How did your transmission fluod smell when you initially drain it? If it smelled like burnt rubber then your clutches are probably shot.
*IMPORTANT: Although this fixed some of my transmission issues, it did not completely fix all the issues. When the transmission warms up (after about 20 minutes) the transmission problems return (hard down shifts, flared shifts). I believe this issue is caused by a warn out valve body. See this follow up video I made sharing the next steps I took. ruclips.net/video/ccwH93hAsuM/видео.html
Ouch! That is a lot of time and coins to spend on something that didn't get fixed. I get that. Sometimes you have to try when the problem is not coded or in your face and obvious. Still, the video is amazing!! Thanks
It did not look like very much fluid came out when you drained it. Maybe just the video editing, but was the level correct? Low fluid level will cause wonky shifting for sure.
@@DadWagon I was saying “oh no his poor camera!” When the dripping was 3-d directly into the shot. I use a old Samsung phone when I do the under the car shots in case this happens :) good video!
Awesome video! I’m currently having some issues with my 2014 Jetta 1.8T. So when scanning my vehicle with OBDeleven I got a DTC at the transmission of P079500 (Pressure Control Solenoid C Malfunction). I guess my question is, could this mamfunction at solenoid C cause the vehicle not to move in any gear? I’m trying to figure out if the transmission needs to be removed due to failure of torque convertor or just need to replace the valve body. Thanks!
Hi, great video bthw, I also saw your other video of some problems showing after but I have a question for you. How many quarts did you put since looks like you drained all the fluid. This tranny holds up to 7.4 quarts full fill. I dont think it is wise to pour the liquid first than wait for the temp to rise at recommended levels and then drain it. Shouldn't you pour the fluid while engine running? Thanks
What kind of transmission fluid did you use? Auto part store online search list a lot of different brands, Dextron VI, Mercon V, multi vehicle, etc. about $10/qt. I know a lot of people recommend much more expensive Pentosin, Ravonol about 3.5x more expensive. I have a black 2007 VW Rabbit 2.5L, with the shifting issues. I plan to replace the complete valve body with a used one from the same year/model/color 🙃car where the owner said it ran well. Your videos will help!
"I had someone help me because there is one loose piece that you have to be sure goes in the right spot." Any further information on what that piece is, where it goes, what it looks like??
Hello how are you I’m having a problem with my 2010 Volkswagen Jetta codes reading are P0748 and output speed sensor which I changed. I used an obd scan tool to get the codes and a cousin of mine used is advanced scan tool and it read solenoid #6
Did you ever get it figured out? Replaced my entire valve body, added new fluids. No issues besides rough shifts (assume it's relearning?) but I am getting error P0715 (Input speed sensor). I have to clear it every time I turn the car on, but the car seems to be working.
mine was similar where the colors were not matching - you have to look very carefully at the channels within each solenoid and make sure they're the same pattern as the one you're removing.
I have a 2006 5 cyl jetta that has been having this problem for years. I have been planning to replace the valve body but I instead ordered one of the transgo shift kits. Why did you replace the solenoids instead of using one of the shift kits?
@@DadWagon i have put a lot of research into this. I did not think the issue was the solenoids. I think the issue is the sludge in the valve body itself, and the holes or something inside that get reemed out. Its worth spending $80 on a shift kit (or your $130 on the solenoids) over spending $800 on a new valve body.
@@crateandbarrels Now that I've looked it up - i've seen a couple people use that kit now. I see in the instructions there are a few holes that you increase the size of, as well as clean up the solenoids. What has made you wait to try it out?
So I ended up doing this job this past weekend. Replaced the entire valve body and bought a kit online that had oil, seals for the pan, new screws, filter, etc. My symptoms were the car once "warmed up" would get stuck in 3rd gear. You can reset it, but it would immediately get stuck shortly after. Scanner tool said something about solenoid B.
Took me about 2 days to complete this job. Not as simple as this video haha. Oil pan plug was seized on mine and had to remove the whole pan instead and ended up dropping the whole thing all over myself. If you drop the entire valve body this spring thing may fall out. It goes spring first and then that metal piece after. It goes at the very top in one of the holes in the corner (You can see the spring at 9:22). Def need that right angle pick to get all the wire connections out (take lots of pics). Eventually got everything back in.
This video doesn't show it but other videos show that there is a different plug up top towards the front of the car where you can pump in the fluid. Its a screw holding in a sensor, just slightly pull the sensor out the way and stick your pump inside and fill through there. Apparently you're suppose to have the car on and warmed up while doing this, pump till it started to drip (secondary plug should be tighten, only main plug should be open).
Car is shifting and working now, seems like TCM is relearning and because of that the shifts are pretty rough. I do have a code P0715 (input speed sensor) I have to clear every time I turn the car on. Not sure why I am getting that, but will probably end up replacing it wherever that sensor is.
Other car shops around my area wanted to charge me around 1K for this job or 1.5-2k USD for a new transmission. I spent probably $400-500 buying all the parts and some tools I needed for this job. Goodluck guys will post and update on that sensor.
i'm doing this job and all the solenoids are the same except the one at the end and you can clearly see the difference (and of course the small ones are different, but both the same and they don't go bad)
Clear video on the job, but I note you didn't mention the accumulator that can fall out when you drop the valve body.
Yes, the accumulator is a pain - both when removing and installing. I didn't know what is was called, but that was the piece I need a friends help to place while i was lifting it back in. Thanks for sharing the feedback.
Not sure what to make of the differences in the final solenoid.
Awesome video. Just what I was looking for. Thanks! Very nice commentary and filming.
Thanks for sharing man, I learned alot. I have the 2017 Passat 1.8 tsi with the same transmission and problems, and came across your videos researching. I never even knew how long these transmissions were around. It was a shame to own a car 10 years newer than your beetle with the faulty transmission. I'm looking into replacing the valvebody itself with a reman. or replacing the solenoids like you did.👍
Glad it helped! what did you end up doing? did you get it fixed?
I would have bought a JY valve tore the two apart resurfaced and deep cleanse everything then took the best parts by selectively choosing and rebuild. I’ve done it with just the one in my car and got the same results. That shifting longer is sometimes caused by TORQUE CONVERTER OR INTERNAL PARTS WITHIN TRANSMISSION. Audi recommends replacing the entire unit to prevent these problems but with extra gas between shifts your wouldn’t even notice. Anyway good video to watch. I’ll be rebuilding A6 Quattro this weekend. 😂 And I noticed every time this valve job comes around the vehicle needs exhaust work as well. VW Audi always hits you with the double trouble.
Also check your vacuum hoses
They cause shifting issues and set off chassis codes before the actual P0741-078 codes
I got a replacement set of solenoids from eBay and noticed:
A. theyre same size (I some other videos where the 'new and improved' versions were smaller).
B. No paperwork came with so Im gonna try and copy what YOU did - Just look so find similarities in new to old. I hope that does the trick. Come back later to report my findings. 😊
Please do!
I have a jetta 2.5 engine automatic transmission. Looked like the same setup that you have. I'm not sure if your transmission has a plug up top but instead of pumping ATF fluid from the bottom I just loosened another plug from up top and was able to use a 1/2" clear vinyl tube to feed fluid down in there until it came out the plug from the pan. Then everything else like you said - 35 - 40 C temp and drain till it drips.
good video, it helped me a lot... a question, what torque did you give to the valve box... thank you
Glad it helped out. Now I have no idea. I had to google it to find the torque number.
@@DadWagonMy question as well. 😂 Lets go google!
8nm+90° for the bolts that hold the valve body.
I always wonder why nobody uses 4 bolts longer than stock to hold the valve body with a little Clearance to remove solenoids, in that way, the valve body doesn't need to be removed completely from transmission.
Wish I found this video a couple of weeks back when I replaced the solenoids on my daughter's '06 Jetta. Anyway, pieced it together from various videos here. Most guys seem to just replace the whole valve body unfortunately, which isn't a bad way to go, just more costly (especially if it's just your solenoids which are bad). And yes, the numbers and the color of the replacements seem to differ but my 2¢ is that the end one with the squared tip was a b!tch to remove and even harder to install (had to "press" that one in there with a large pair of channel locks) and there was also one of the middle ones which didn't have a "50" on the end but instead a symbol. As far as your solenoids not entirely fixing your issue, are you sure you diagnosed it correctly? Bad solenoids in the 09G usually present themselves as working perfectly fine when cold but once things warm up, that's when the hard shifts and late shifts start. Ours would go into limp mode too when this happened (would miss the shift from 3rd-4th). How did your transmission fluod smell when you initially drain it? If it smelled like burnt rubber then your clutches are probably shot.
I had a spring fall out and I don't know the orientation
*IMPORTANT: Although this fixed some of my transmission issues, it did not completely fix all the issues. When the transmission warms up (after about 20 minutes) the transmission problems return (hard down shifts, flared shifts). I believe this issue is caused by a warn out valve body. See this follow up video I made sharing the next steps I took. ruclips.net/video/ccwH93hAsuM/видео.html
Ouch! That is a lot of time and coins to spend on something that didn't get fixed. I get that. Sometimes you have to try when the problem is not coded or in your face and obvious. Still, the video is amazing!! Thanks
Try adding Lukas transmission fix... Has very good and numerous reviews!
It did not look like very much fluid came out when you drained it. Maybe just the video editing, but was the level correct? Low fluid level will cause wonky shifting for sure.
I didn’t check level prior to draining. Likely video editing as quantity based on collection seemed normal and a lot ended up on the floor. :)
@@DadWagon I was saying “oh no his poor camera!” When the dripping was 3-d directly into the shot. I use a old Samsung phone when I do the under the car shots in case this happens :) good video!
@@CarsandCoding smart! My under car shot camera is the older go pro I have. Use to hate using the GoPro but for stuff like this, it’s hard to beat.
Awesome video! I’m currently having some issues with my 2014 Jetta 1.8T. So when scanning my vehicle with OBDeleven I got a DTC at the transmission of P079500 (Pressure Control Solenoid C Malfunction). I guess my question is, could this mamfunction at solenoid C cause the vehicle not to move in any gear?
I’m trying to figure out if the transmission needs to be removed due to failure of torque convertor or just need to replace the valve body.
Thanks!
Ivan, I honestly don't know enough about transmissions in general or about this one specifically to be able to answer that. Sorry!
Just checking i how’s it going after replacing cable body solenoids. I have a 07 VW Jetta I am thinking about doing the same with 129k miles.
I ended up replacing the entire valve body. Fixed most issues. Still having issues with the TCM relearning.
Hi, great video bthw, I also saw your other video of some problems showing after but I have a question for you. How many quarts did you put since looks like you drained all the fluid.
This tranny holds up to 7.4 quarts full fill. I dont think it is wise to pour the liquid first than wait for the temp to rise at recommended levels and then drain it. Shouldn't you pour the fluid while engine running? Thanks
What are the torque specs?
What kind of transmission fluid did you use? Auto part store online search list a lot of different brands, Dextron VI, Mercon V, multi vehicle, etc. about $10/qt. I know a lot of people recommend much more expensive Pentosin, Ravonol about 3.5x more expensive. I have a black 2007 VW Rabbit 2.5L, with the shifting issues. I plan to replace the complete valve body with a used one from the same year/model/color 🙃car where the owner said it ran well. Your videos will help!
Te falto calibrar los selenoides y te mejora total😊
Does 07 have 2 pressure sensors
"I had someone help me because there is one loose piece that you have to be sure goes in the right spot."
Any further information on what that piece is, where it goes, what it looks like??
The piece i was talking about i believe is the 'accumulator'
Thanks for the helpful video. You should always wear your seatbelt
Hello how are you I’m having a problem with my 2010 Volkswagen Jetta codes reading are P0748 and output speed sensor which I changed. I used an obd scan tool to get the codes and a cousin of mine used is advanced scan tool and it read solenoid #6
Did you ever get it figured out? Replaced my entire valve body, added new fluids. No issues besides rough shifts (assume it's relearning?) but I am getting error P0715 (Input speed sensor). I have to clear it every time I turn the car on, but the car seems to be working.
Would you recommend buying a Remanufactured Valve Body to replace the problem valve body? Are they worth buying and having a mechanic install it?
Definitely. It seems to be the best route with these transmissions.
Great video! Were all of the bolts that hold the valve body in the same length?
No, they are not.
@@DadWagon Good deal. I'm doing this on a friend's car soon, and I wanna make sure I keep track. Thanks!
I have a problem with finding the correct location for the solenoid, and help would be appreciated
They all look the same and the Color’s don’t match or the number
mine was similar where the colors were not matching - you have to look very carefully at the channels within each solenoid and make sure they're the same pattern as the one you're removing.
@@DadWagon thank you for your video and time
Why doesn’t any video show how to remove the selector
by the selector, do you mean the manual shift selector with the little curled washer around the nut?
If so, use a small screwdriver to bend all the tines of the washer flat, then remove the nut.
please can you get back to me i got the pan down but unable to get the wires of the the solenoids. have same trans
Use a right angle pick, turn it towards the solenoid to push the clip off. I attempted this 3-4 times before I got it - it was so frustrating.
I have a 2006 5 cyl jetta that has been having this problem for years. I have been planning to replace the valve body but I instead ordered one of the transgo shift kits. Why did you replace the solenoids instead of using one of the shift kits?
also, did you need to reprogram everything after you installed the new solenoids
I don’t know what the transgo is. Looking it up now.
@@DadWagon i have put a lot of research into this. I did not think the issue was the solenoids. I think the issue is the sludge in the valve body itself, and the holes or something inside that get reemed out. Its worth spending $80 on a shift kit (or your $130 on the solenoids) over spending $800 on a new valve body.
@@crateandbarrels Now that I've looked it up - i've seen a couple people use that kit now. I see in the instructions there are a few holes that you increase the size of, as well as clean up the solenoids. What has made you wait to try it out?
Did you have any problems with fault codes? Mine is in limp mode and won't shift or jumps first gear at least. I had code p0731.
No, sorry - no fault codes at this time.
Reset the TCM so it can relearn how to shift.
Torque spec??????0
8nm+90° for the bolts that holds the valve body.