Replacing the Track Rod or Tie Rod End on an MGB and other classic cars
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- Опубликовано: 29 фев 2020
- A quick video showing how to replace the Track Rod or Tie Rod End on an MGB and other classic cars.
The track rod ends are a common MOT failure in the UK if the rubber boot has become damaged, or if there is excessive play in the steering. Replacing them is quite straightforward but I do recommend buying a ball joint separator to make the job easier, this ones I am using is a Facom U.16A18 but there are cheaper ones available; scissor type www.opieoils.co.uk/p-159435-l... or the fork type www.opieoils.co.uk/p-159427-l....
Tightening torque for the track rod end nut is 35-38Ft/lbs. Please be very careful when working on the steering system and don’t hesitate to get in touch with any questions. Do keep in mind that the car’s alignment should be checked once the track rod ends have been changed.
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I'm really glad you are doing these videos. I hope to have an enclosed garage, rather than an open car port, by next winter so these projects aren't as miserable.
Thanks for your message Trent, having a garage definitely makes the work easier, it's been a fairly miserable few weeks here weather wise, I'm very glad to have a garage with a hard floor to work in. Best of luck with your projects.
Thanks for sharing, it was very well explained and clear..👍
Many thanks for your comment, delighted to hear you are enjoying the videos
Nice episode thanks. Im rebuilding a BGT that's been sitting outside for 9 years. Your channel is really helpful!
Im relearning stuff from 40 years ago!
Had to heat the locknuts to red hot before they finally undid!
One trick I learned many years ago was to use a normal nut to pull up the ball joint taper then swap it for the Nylock.
Glad you enjoyed the video Mark, many thanks for the tip regarding the taper!
Thanks for the video. Just changed tie rod ends on mine yesterday. Took a bit more than a hammer to get them out though!! Had to go get a tie rod removal tool
I do think the tie rod removal tool is worthwhile, it has a few uses on these cars and saves damaging the threads etc
Another terrific video David - thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it David
Outstanding video
Thank you so much 😀
Great video very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
thanks David, well explained like always, I'm sure mine need doing. Serious front end on your B race car...
Thanks for your message, glad you enjoyed the video. Hope all goes well when you swap yours.
Thanks I was having some creaking coming from my front end when I was driving today and wondered if it could be this.
I'm not sure it would be the track rod ends, I think the bushes would be the first place I'd look.
Greetings David! You're videos are amazing! Question: I'm getting ready to install new tie rod ends on my 1977 MG Midget. Questions:
1. I just installed a new steering rack assembly but I did not mark, or count the turns, for the tie rod ends. Should I put both on about 1/2 way?
2. On my Midget, the nuts on the tie rod ends were on top. On your MGB they are facing down. Were my old tie rods installed incorrectly by previous owner?
Thank you very much and please keep providing awesome videos!
Kevin
Thanks for your message Kevin, apologies for the delay in getting back to you. Having a similar amount of thread on both sides is a good starting point, you my be able to get the tracking reasonably close by eye, but I would certainly recommend getting the car aligned if you don't have the gauges to do it yourself. I don't know the MG Midget suspension well, but in the photos I saw it looked as though the tie rods should be "upside down".
Hi David, i've noticed the cable going from the ARB to the hub, is that for a wheel sensor, if so do you have a picture of how you have mounted it?
You are quite correct it's a magnetic wheel speed sensor. Fitting was actually quite straight-forward. I re-tapped on of the holes in the kingpin that would usually accept the bolt for the brake cover shield (I don't have them fitted). I then screwed in the sensor and added a locking nut to the front. Very straightforward and works well. you will need to screw the sensor into the threaded hole before connecting it up so as not to twist the cable. Hopefully this give then info you need?
Hi great video. Can I can what size wheels and tyres you run as just purchase some aftermarket second hand wheels for my mgb gt but they rub on the track rod end. Tyre wise just interested as changing my tyres soon too.
The wheels are a 14 inch Minilight style and they just catch the rubber boots of the track rod ends. Tyres are Dunlop Historic race ones, I really wouldn't recommend them as they are terrible in the wet. I found the Continental Conti Contact 2 (I think) good on these cars but that was over 10 years ago, not sure if they still do them or not.
Hello David, I did change my track rod ends. After I did the change the alignment should be adjusted. I wonder how much toe in you have with your B ? The workshop manual mentiones between 1.6 mm and 2.4 mm difference in total between the front and back of the wheel rims. What is the appropriate value for a stable and safe cornering car behaviour at speed? Many thanks, Maurice.
Many thanks for your message Maurice, I would say 1.6 mm and 2.3 mm is fine for a road car, if you have poly bushes fitted you can go a little less than this (0-1.6mm). In my car I am actually running toe OUT of around 2mm, this is to try and induce oversteer though. It makes the car more twitchy but it does work well with the Dunlop tyres we are running that we have to run. I would not recommend it for daily road use though.
@@davidrussellwilks Hello David, many thanks for your quick reply !
I recently changed my bushings with V8 bushes. (Thanks to your video, that job was easy to manage !)
So setting the toe-in at 2mm would be fine I guess.
Thanks, Maurice.
I think that would be a good starting point, if you feel you'd like the car to be a bit quicker to turn in you can go as low as zero.
I was hoping to see the gaiters changed with the best way to keep the tracking exacly the same
If you watch from around 3:00 you will see that the lock nut can be left in place to give a good idea of where the track rod end should be. Personally I'd always check the tracking anyway.
Do you remove the spring on the tie rod? The spring inside the rack assembly. I have heard you don't need this. Thanks. Great vids
Do you mean the spring that's in the rack assembly itself? It's part 23 in this photo
www.ukmgparts.com/catalogue/mgb-midcat-6-submgb25-steering-racks
@@davidrussellwilks yes, it's no longer available. I'm getting a little wobble when I hit a hole or bump on the road. I installed all poly bushings on every suspension part. Maybe my rack is loose, and I will remove a shim. Thanks for the advice.
These videos are fantastic David. Is there any chance you could do a 10 minute "MGB Engine Bay" overview of all parts i.e. an intro to all the key parts of MGBs and also the common issue areas?
Many thanks for your message. There is a walk around video here ruclips.net/video/gplffmow_9g/видео.html. I'll be doing a more in depth video in 2021 with further details on the engine.
When they go bad... Is there also a metal-to-metal sound that results from a tie rod that's bad? I've got metal-to metal sounds when I pass over a particularly bumpy road... I'm suspicious of the bushes too... Thanks ever so...
A bad tie rod tends to be stiff; usually caused by a split in the outer rubber allowing water and grit in. I think I'd be more suspicious of the bushes. To begin I'd certainly get the car on some axle stands and see if there is anything obvious. If the rubber bushes are over 10 years old they will probably need changing, has the suspension been kept greased, there are 3 grease nipples on the king pin.
Do damaged bellows or boots leak steering oil?
Damaged boots will leak oil but also let mud and water into the steering rack. If the boots/bellows are damaged they should be replaced immediately.
David, I have just fitted the 8" spring to my MGB (rubber bumper Conversion in progress) and was hoping it would reduce the gap between the wheel and wing. It has slightly, but the wheel arch height is still at 69 cm/27" which is a real disappointment. Also the gap is 4" which again is wider than I was hoping for. Is this the correct height or have I done something wrong? Many thanks for your advice, Joe
Good Afternoon Joe, what is the measurement taken from the centre of the wheel to the top of the wheel arch?
You may find the springs settle slightly after a few days, do you know the height and spring rate of the springs you changed?
@@davidrussellwilks Thanks for replying, From the wheel centre to the wing is 15" or 39cm. the springs are8" x 650lb x 3b race
competition springs. Thanks again Joe.
That does seem rather tall, I take it the engine is in the car at the moment? Also have the springs located correctly in the top cups? I would have assumed a ride height of around 35cm with those springs in a chrome bumper car. If you still have the original rubber bumper crossmember fitted it will add around 4cm to the ride height.
@@davidrussellwilks Thanks David the spring is in the cups as you said in your video and I no longer have the rubber bumper on the car, however, I was at Beaulieu car show last week and spoke to a chap with one lowered and he said I likely won't see the full distance until I've lowered all 4 corners? By the way yes the engine is in the car. I will send you a photo when I work out how to! Thanks again and I'll keep you posted, Joe
I think it would be worth trying to source a chrome bumper crossmember for the car, especially if you now have the bumpers removed. You can email me at davidrussellwilks@gmail.com