I knew that tilers got nice straight lines and finishes but I never realized how much work went into the preparation to get it all worked out. Great learning experience.
What a great tutorial. I've done lots of different construction throughout my life, now I'm going to remodel my master bathroom. Recently I bought a 3-axis laser level for this job. After watching this video my confidence level went up several notches. Thank you Tilecoach.
For the novice DIY'er... at 8:23 when Issac says leveling clips will flatten the tile out... he's referring to the installation (i.e the end product.. the overall finished results of the floor.) In reality curved, warped and/or high spots on tiles do not "physically" get flattened out or straightened by using the leveling clips... but instead will provide the flattest possible surface you can hope with the tile you are installing by ensuring all edges of adjoining tiles have the best possible height alignment from tile to tile.
God Bless You Sir! I enjoy your videos I don't lay tile but it's amazing to watch someone who cares about what they really do. Love you to sir. May the Lord Bless the Work of Your Hands and Your Family as Well and All they Do!
Great video! You are a true craftsman. About to do our entire home with tile so I'll be bingeing videos on your channel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
9:22 I agree, having the tiles compliment that room layout looks better, it flows more naturally having the tiles lengthwise matching the narrower room A tiler also told me that he sets up full tiles along whatever edge you first see when you walk into the room, as your eye naturally tracks to that edge, so making the tiles full at that edge makes for a more professional looking job. Any tiles that you need to cut would then go against the opposite side of the room
Line laser levels also really help in the marine construction where in old days (and many still do it today) they also used the 345 method to determine where to run a string line so that it is 90 degrees with another string line. That really becomes difficult on days where the water is rough and you're bobbing up a down. A line laser level gives you both a line and another line that is already tuned at 90 degrees with the other laser line and so you can easily determine where 90 degrees is even at long distances away. There is no other tool that gives you a long range 90 degrees except a laser level. All you need is a receiver to find the line and that's where 90 degrees is.
Great explanation there pal. I appreciate this. Its a Sunday morning here and my wife and I are about to embark on our first tiling experience! Have a great day 😊
I've been looking at lasers for this same purpose. Which model do you have and what should I be looking for in a laser level to do my own porcelain kitchen floor? Great video by thee way.
@@TileCoach I was also wondering. Wouldn't keying the mud in first fill the voids more? Or does the TCNA have any direction on that? This is a serious question I really want to know the answer to
@@AdventureswithGeneral i suppose it is writen that way but think about it and really watch him spreading the thin set. between the protruding notches on the trowel are flat sections and that acts like a flat trowel, so as he is spreading those flat sections are keying the thin set into the ditra and he is pressing down fairly hard many times. as you watch you can clearly see it being keyed in between the notches and its being done everywhere. now if you just scooped out some thinset and didnt press down all the way and just loosly pressed down adding a kind of thicker layer to the floor, you wouldnt be keying it in and in that case you would of needed to pre key in the thin set with the flat side of trowel. i see this reply alot on these videos, mainly people complaining that the setter is doing it wrong but if you actually watch what the thinset is doing while they are spreading, you will see that they are indeed burning it in, its just that its happening in one step..
@frankcatrini4816 and if the thinset is thin enough (admitted not too thin lol) it would almost fill on its own. Just curious about what the written codes are
@@AdventureswithGeneral yes you are correct...as for rules on it, im not actually sure, I do know it is stated on certain thinsets and cements so its definitely recommended . It doesn't take long to do, especially on smoother cement floors and wood substrates, so its a good practice to do for sure but redundant at the same time.
I bought one of these 3 axis lasers because they are so useful. They are all made in China, but they do the job at half the price, but I am just a homeowner not at tile guy. I could buy two of the inexpensive ones for the price of Dewalt.
I rarely use my laser for checking square, use the longest run that your straight grout line goes with and run it. Exterior walls and walls that a parallel with your exterior walls will be straight. Lasers are nice for making straight grout lines though since you can apply thinset and not cover your chalk/pencil lines.
I just went to a part one schluder class and they say to use the straight edge side of the trowel to really push the mortar down into the ditra then scrape it off the top of the ditra and then use the notch side and do your directional lines but I havnt learned much about ditra heat so I'm just curious if there was a reason you were not doing that it the video? Is it because of the 1/2 trowel u are using and umyou don't need too? Or do I even need to do this? I'd like to know your thoughts on that. Thanks for all this great information!
Hello ,when you talk about the spacers at 14minutes 20 second it sounds like you say re up and buy , can you explain as my English is a work in progress . I have learnt so much from your vids , thank you
I like using the clips but I use the 16th in with an 8th in horseshoe spacer because the clips tend to twist a bit and i dont feel you get consistent spacing. Before using the horseshoe spacers I used to use a rubber mallet to nudge the tiles
To clarify... at 25:55 he says "oops...other way" when adjusting the tile - Just FYI.. he's not moving the tile to adjust the grout line fit to the adjacent tile. As you can see the laser is sitting on the tile hes installing, he's simply moving the tile to readjust his laser to realign it to the reference mark he put on the side of the tub.
Have you run into a situation where a customer asked you to use the leftover tiles from another area and bought more for the work, but ended up another batch of tiles that slightly different color than the left over ones because they don't make that color anymore? It happened to me recently and I didn't check. The store the customer bought from say it's the same tiles according to their system but it doesn't match the color. It was the 12x24 tile. I didn't notice it until half way through the job. My customer decided to keep them in rather than redoing them from the new batch.
The tiles were from different dyelots. Its small variations of color from different batches. Tile distributors usually(or should) keep records of which dyelot on your purchase order so it can be matched later on.
I see. I think the store couldn't get their hands on the tiles and decided to give them from a different batch. The tiles my customer bought was over 5 years ago. I guess the best way is to check all the tiles first before installing them.
This guy doesn't even do layout correctly but that is job security because all of you he is teaching think he is so good but he is not teaching correct methods. In fact he complicates things while laying out his tile wrong. I wonder who he learned from. He could never be in the tiler's union. He would lay someones tile out this way once and that would be it. They would make him go to school.
Hey Coach please explain to me how schluter is the biggest name in the game and you can buy their entire system at any big box store EXCEPT THE DAMN SCHLUTER MORTAR!!! They sell everything but the 1 thing you need to put it together its like selling lumber without nails. The only mortar around me is versabond. I have no other options and to get all set the shipping is more than the product. 80$ a bag. I'm struggling to find a decent mortar for my ditra heat and shower tile. Any reccomendations I'd greatly appreciate.
hi, when tiling over a wooden floor (making sure the sub-structure is rigid) what would you put down, cement board or structural plywood to tile over? Thanks
Tho I don't do tile, I've discovered that the laser is fantastic for layout and checking squareness. Knowing what is straight, parallel and perpendicular makes for easier decisions. With a tight string on the floor, you can only measure to the toe kicks and baseboards. A laser is everywhere. It's in the next room, it's on the walls, it's at every elevation. Let's say the toe kicks are off 3/8 of an inch. With a string on the floor, it limits what you can measure. With a laser, you can measure to the toe kick, then immediately above the toe kick to the wall. You immediately know if the toe kick is out of whack. Just saying that with a string, you are very limited as to what you can measure. With the laser you can even measure into the outside of the room that you're working in to ensure you're parallel to a common wall. ...and you can't trip over a laser line. 😁
Could you include a link to the laser website, or a site where it can be purchased? I don't even know how to spell the name, which makes online searching difficult. (whahoooeeee? I doubt it ; )
Can someone clarify, he knew he was gonna start with a full tile 1/16” off the tub. So why did he need he start the 2nd row out and in the middle of the floor?
So if you have a room that’s badly out of square how do you keep from having one row of tile against a wall that the tiles either get larger or smaller as they go? How do you keep it from being noticeable?
Try set layout that near crooked wall is big as possible tile. So it harder to see that tile width changes versus if there is really narrow tile you can easily see that width changes.
@@mr.wizeguy8995 makes sense thank you very much for the advice. I’m getting ready to tile a couple of spaces in my house and neither room is remotely close to being square. 1 room is over an inch out along a 5ft span.
Great video, although I remodeled bathrooms for many years and im unsure why you wouldnt try to have the grout joint in the middle of the doorway opening? While youre lasering your lines out and measuring if you just put your level in the middle of the doorway and measure off of that, why not do it that way so its split perfectly? Im actually curious if im doing it wrong or if this is just personal preference/
I want to buy a laser for floor tile project, but I couldn't understand what you said when you mentioned the name of the laser you use. What is it called please?
I'm just thiniking to myself how do you get all the tiles a level height, and that's what the clip wedges are for? You are awesome man, If I watch enough of your vids I may even attempt doing my bathroom floor. Thanks for the outstanding vids!
Man, definitely investing the leveling clips and the tool. I did 2 jobs for a comparison in my house. The 1st one did not have clips and I struggled to keep tiles flat without slippage. For the 2nd one I got the leveling clips, and it was easy. Just remember to do a ton of homework before you start doing anything. Type of the tile, type of the thinset, type of grout, underlayment if needed, floor level, measurements between walls, tile layout. You better over think than under think lol
Essentially, grout line widths used to solve that problem. Back 15-20 years ago. When they were 3/16. You could "Dutch" a line a little skinnier here and there to square out areas. It was also a way to have full pieces at perimeter when using smaller tiles. Now the tiles are twice the size or more. So grout lines aren't used as measurement aids anymore.
You didn't dumb this one down enough for the beginners lol. There was a lot of math with some of the details missing. Like how would you square off the room using lasers if your measurements weren't perfect?
Love your videos sir! Question, when laying your tiles out, are you considering the width of the grout line too? Or since they are an 1/8 or a 1/4, you just round off?
To each their own I hate cut tiles on one side of the room if possible, border tiles around the perimeter room with all tiles in the middle whole tiles not always possible admittedly, leveling clips can’t stand them. I find it easier to level without them.
Don't forget to pull out the batteries in your laser (and other tools) when not in use... had more than 1 tool destroyed by leaking batteries over long storage.... yes even with top name brand batteries.
Great video. But where is the fokn free tile layout app in this industry!!? Simply draw out your dimensions, enter tile size and grout size, then preferred orientation. And boom, you get your layout with cut list and numbered. Very basic. Decking industry has multiple.
I knew that tilers got nice straight lines and finishes but I never realized how much work went into the preparation to get it all worked out. Great learning experience.
What a great tutorial. I've done lots of different construction throughout my life, now I'm going to remodel my master bathroom. Recently I bought a 3-axis laser level for this job. After watching this video my confidence level went up several notches. Thank you Tilecoach.
Isaac you're killing me! Burn the mud, then comb!!!!! Love your stuff and your attitude! I've learned a lot from you!
The tape on the wall is a great orientation method, I'll be using that, thanks!
I didn't know Robbie Lawler was a tile coach. Good content, informative, thank you.
All ESFP bro’s look alike haha. Issac is the man 😎
You put a lot of faith into that peel and stick. I could never be talked into trusting it. But good luck.
For the novice DIY'er... at 8:23 when Issac says leveling clips will flatten the tile out... he's referring to the installation (i.e the end product.. the overall finished results of the floor.) In reality curved, warped and/or high spots on tiles do not "physically" get flattened out or straightened by using the leveling clips... but instead will provide the flattest possible surface you can hope with the tile you are installing by ensuring all edges of adjoining tiles have the best possible height alignment from tile to tile.
I really hope my bathroom will look half as good as the work you do. Trying to learn at much as i can. Your videos help a lot. Thank you
God Bless You Sir! I enjoy your videos I don't lay tile but it's amazing to watch someone who cares about what they really do. Love you to sir. May the Lord Bless the Work of Your Hands and Your Family as Well and All they Do!
Great video! You are a true craftsman. About to do our entire home with tile so I'll be bingeing videos on your channel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
9:22 I agree, having the tiles compliment that room layout looks better, it flows more naturally having the tiles lengthwise matching the narrower room
A tiler also told me that he sets up full tiles along whatever edge you first see when you walk into the room, as your eye naturally tracks to that edge, so making the tiles full at that edge makes for a more professional looking job. Any tiles that you need to cut would then go against the opposite side of the room
Line laser levels also really help in the marine construction where in old days (and many still do it today) they also used the 345 method to determine where to run a string line so that it is 90 degrees with another string line. That really becomes difficult on days where the water is rough and you're bobbing up a down. A line laser level gives you both a line and another line that is already tuned at 90 degrees with the other laser line and so you can easily determine where 90 degrees is even at long distances away. There is no other tool that gives you a long range 90 degrees except a laser level. All you need is a receiver to find the line and that's where 90 degrees is.
Great explanation there pal. I appreciate this. Its a Sunday morning here and my wife and I are about to embark on our first tiling experience! Have a great day 😊
really like these layout videos, always helpful!
Great, detailed video. Great tips--you are an excellent teacher AND coach, Thank you!
Love you, Tile Coach. Thank you for your commitment to being seen, being vulnerable and for sharing.
Youre welcome!
God Like
took almost half an hour just to set the first tile. surprisingly a lot more setup than i expected to tile a room.
That is nothing. Good work required good planning and good preparation.
The first row/layer always takes longer. Its gonna be the basis for everything else.
These videos are incredibly satisfying to watch.
I love that you watch!
About to start another rehab. I came across your video. Thanks for getting me out of the stone age lol. I see the benefits already!
I've been looking at lasers for this same purpose. Which model do you have and what should I be looking for in a laser level to do my own porcelain kitchen floor? Great video by thee way.
Great video - thank you for sharing this wonderful content. The dado on the tile was awesome.
Excellent information for a newbie like me. Thanks for posting😁👍
Isaac...... You need to use the flat side of the trowel first to fill the ditra heat then trowel your lines.
Why? What's the difference than doing it with the notch side?
@@TileCoach I was also wondering. Wouldn't keying the mud in first fill the voids more? Or does the TCNA have any direction on that? This is a serious question I really want to know the answer to
@@AdventureswithGeneral i suppose it is writen that way but think about it and really watch him spreading the thin set. between the protruding notches on the trowel are flat sections and that acts like a flat trowel, so as he is spreading those flat sections are keying the thin set into the ditra and he is pressing down fairly hard many times. as you watch you can clearly see it being keyed in between the notches and its being done everywhere. now if you just scooped out some thinset and didnt press down all the way and just loosly pressed down adding a kind of thicker layer to the floor, you wouldnt be keying it in and in that case you would of needed to pre key in the thin set with the flat side of trowel. i see this reply alot on these videos, mainly people complaining that the setter is doing it wrong but if you actually watch what the thinset is doing while they are spreading, you will see that they are indeed burning it in, its just that its happening in one step..
@frankcatrini4816 and if the thinset is thin enough (admitted not too thin lol) it would almost fill on its own. Just curious about what the written codes are
@@AdventureswithGeneral yes you are correct...as for rules on it, im not actually sure, I do know it is stated on certain thinsets and cements so its definitely recommended . It doesn't take long to do, especially on smoother cement floors and wood substrates, so its a good practice to do for sure but redundant at the same time.
Look up the PLS 90. Best Lazer square out there. Accurate to 1/8" at 100ft
Awesome video. Thanks for the in-depth info. So helpful!
Thanks for the great informative video, I love you too!
would love to see finished results
I'm guessing you could use one of these 360' lasers for leveling the forms for a square concrete slab.
LevTek clips with Raimondi wedges all day for the win.
Real good informative video.. thanks a lot...
Educational gold!!!
Thanks David!
Love your stuff! Thanks!
wonderful coaching..... any old laser that you can donate please?
I bought one of these 3 axis lasers because they are so useful. They are all made in China, but they do the job at half the price, but I am just a homeowner not at tile guy. I could buy two of the inexpensive ones for the price of Dewalt.
I rarely use my laser for checking square, use the longest run that your straight grout line goes with and run it. Exterior walls and walls that a parallel with your exterior walls will be straight. Lasers are nice for making straight grout lines though since you can apply thinset and not cover your chalk/pencil lines.
The layout, bulletproof!
The method, fast, simple, and square AF!
The dado over Ditra splice? Over the top!
Thanks!
Thanks Jeremy...glad you like the video
I just went to a part one schluder class and they say to use the straight edge side of the trowel to really push the mortar down into the ditra then scrape it off the top of the ditra and then use the notch side and do your directional lines but I havnt learned much about ditra heat so I'm just curious if there was a reason you were not doing that it the video? Is it because of the 1/2 trowel u are using and umyou don't need too? Or do I even need to do this? I'd like to know your thoughts on that. Thanks for all this great information!
Best way is to float the wire first let it dry day after ready so this way is faster to spread this set
What I usually do is mark the long subfloor joints before I lay the Ditra and use those. They are usually right on.
Hello ,when you talk about the spacers at 14minutes 20 second it sounds like you say re up and buy , can you explain as my English is a work in progress . I have learnt so much from your vids , thank you
I like using the clips but I use the 16th in with an 8th in horseshoe spacer because the clips tend to twist a bit and i dont feel you get consistent spacing. Before using the horseshoe spacers I used to use a rubber mallet to nudge the tiles
can't believe some people still use body part and seed for measurement. Guys you should really update/evolve!
Great explanation and demonstration
Thank you
You've been a tremendous help, thanks! What is the benefit to using that orange pad other than going though a ton of thin set?
The orange pad is a floor heating system, it holds the wire that goes across back and forth. Look it up.
To clarify... at 25:55 he says "oops...other way" when adjusting the tile - Just FYI.. he's not moving the tile to adjust the grout line fit to the adjacent tile. As you can see the laser is sitting on the tile hes installing, he's simply moving the tile to readjust his laser to realign it to the reference mark he put on the side of the tub.
916 SacTown Represent 👑
are you using schluter thinset? or some generic stuff? how long do you have to work with the thinset? I am doing a project and want to go slow.
Have you run into a situation where a customer asked you to use the leftover tiles from another area and bought more for the work, but ended up another batch of tiles that slightly different color than the left over ones because they don't make that color anymore? It happened to me recently and I didn't check. The store the customer bought from say it's the same tiles according to their system but it doesn't match the color. It was the 12x24 tile. I didn't notice it until half way through the job. My customer decided to keep them in rather than redoing them from the new batch.
The tiles were from different dyelots. Its small variations of color from different batches. Tile distributors usually(or should) keep records of which dyelot on your purchase order so it can be matched later on.
I see. I think the store couldn't get their hands on the tiles and decided to give them from a different batch. The tiles my customer bought was over 5 years ago. I guess the best way is to check all the tiles first before installing them.
Yes. It was miserable
Awesome video very handy.
Thank you.
This guy doesn't even do layout correctly but that is job security because all of you he is teaching think he is so good but he is not teaching correct methods. In fact he complicates things while laying out his tile wrong. I wonder who he learned from. He could never be in the tiler's union. He would lay someones tile out this way once and that would be it. They would make him go to school.
How would you like to take a trip with me to Jamaica to tile my new house with 24 x 48 porcelain tiles?
Hey Coach please explain to me how schluter is the biggest name in the game and you can buy their entire system at any big box store EXCEPT THE DAMN SCHLUTER MORTAR!!! They sell everything but the 1 thing you need to put it together its like selling lumber without nails. The only mortar around me is versabond. I have no other options and to get all set the shipping is more than the product. 80$ a bag. I'm struggling to find a decent mortar for my ditra heat and shower tile. Any reccomendations I'd greatly appreciate.
hi, when tiling over a wooden floor (making sure the sub-structure is rigid) what would you put down, cement board or structural plywood to tile over? Thanks
So what happens if the other run isn’t square? Where do we go from there?
Tho I don't do tile, I've discovered that the laser is fantastic for layout and checking squareness. Knowing what is straight, parallel and perpendicular makes for easier decisions.
With a tight string on the floor, you can only measure to the toe kicks and baseboards.
A laser is everywhere. It's in the next room, it's on the walls, it's at every elevation. Let's say the toe kicks are off 3/8 of an inch. With a string on the floor, it limits what you can measure.
With a laser, you can measure to the toe kick, then immediately above the toe kick to the wall. You immediately know if the toe kick is out of whack.
Just saying that with a string, you are very limited as to what you can measure.
With the laser you can even measure into the outside of the room that you're working in to ensure you're parallel to a common wall.
...and you can't trip over a laser line. 😁
thank you!!
Could you include a link to the laser website, or a site where it can be purchased? I don't even know how to spell the name, which makes online searching difficult. (whahoooeeee? I doubt it ; )
Amazon. Great lasers
Bihui laser
Amazon has a few different brands they are all good just need a 3D one
Can someone clarify, he knew he was gonna start with a full tile 1/16” off the tub. So why did he need he start the 2nd row out and in the middle of the floor?
Awesome job. One video that i truly like.
Can you not start at the center of a room so the edges will be the same
nice job
Thanks Issac. How do you keep your grout lines so clean when using the clips? I always make a mess
Is there any value on creating a tutorial on using a LASER for the VERTICAL surfaces of a walk-in shower?
Definitely...Will do!
@@TileCoach where the link for the laser coach
What laser is it and where can I get ? Thank you
Good stuff !
You not applying any thin set to the tile only on the floor ! Is that enough thin set ?
why is that bathroom so wide? was there an ADA necessity?
So if you have a room that’s badly out of square how do you keep from having one row of tile against a wall that the tiles either get larger or smaller as they go? How do you keep it from being noticeable?
Try set layout that near crooked wall is big as possible tile. So it harder to see that tile width changes versus if there is really narrow tile you can easily see that width changes.
@@mr.wizeguy8995 makes sense thank you very much for the advice. I’m getting ready to tile a couple of spaces in my house and neither room is remotely close to being square. 1 room is over an inch out along a 5ft span.
Whatever you do, make sure you don’t end up with a sliver cut near where the wall starts getting wider!
FANTASTIC !!!!
Thanks!
I would have started in the toilet area and worked my way out but good job
As a customer, I would have made you remove the tiles and start over. I want to walk into my room and see a full tile at entry.
Great video, although I remodeled bathrooms for many years and im unsure why you wouldnt try to have the grout joint in the middle of the doorway opening? While youre lasering your lines out and measuring if you just put your level in the middle of the doorway and measure off of that, why not do it that way so its split perfectly? Im actually curious if im doing it wrong or if this is just personal preference/
When you say Huey like the helicopter is that a nickname for Huepar?
Man that secret juice wasn't as accessible back then...lot of growth if you know what I mean...I do appreciate the channel tho
Thanks Tony
I want to buy a laser for floor tile project, but I couldn't understand what you said when you mentioned the name of the laser you use. What is it called please?
Bihui
What if your cabinets aren't square?
What laser do you recommend when doing tile? Thanks for the in depth video of your craftsmanship!!
I'm just thiniking to myself how do you get all the tiles a level height, and that's what the clip wedges are for? You are awesome man, If I watch enough of your vids I may even attempt doing my bathroom floor. Thanks for the outstanding vids!
Man, definitely investing the leveling clips and the tool. I did 2 jobs for a comparison in my house. The 1st one did not have clips and I struggled to keep tiles flat without slippage. For the 2nd one I got the leveling clips, and it was easy. Just remember to do a ton of homework before you start doing anything. Type of the tile, type of the thinset, type of grout, underlayment if needed, floor level, measurements between walls, tile layout. You better over think than under think lol
Can you put a link to the laser level pls? Thanks
Buhui
why didn't you pull the base molding before tiling. I've always pulled molding then put it over the flooring.
Did you not watch the video…? 🥴 He spent like 3 mins explaining why…
I had to like for the great content also had to make it 667 likes !
Have you tried the Bihui levelers?
No I have not
@@TileCoach I think you would like them
What's your level of tolerance for being out of square? 1/8" or 1/16"? Or other?
Essentially, grout line widths used to solve that problem. Back 15-20 years ago. When they were 3/16. You could "Dutch" a line a little skinnier here and there to square out areas. It was also a way to have full pieces at perimeter when using smaller tiles. Now the tiles are twice the size or more. So grout lines aren't used as measurement aids anymore.
The green lasers say they are accurate up to 1/16”..
Bihui laser, retail price $299.00, thats pretty cheap, right?
Great video but that trim is not base shoe moulding(quarter round, classic homeowner mistake)
www.homedepot.com/p/FINISHED-ELEGANCE-WM129-7-16-in-x-11-16-in-Medium-Density-Fiberboard-MDF-Shoe-Molding-10001626/202738251
Anyone have issues with tiles separating as you crimp the leveling tool on the wedge? Mine pushes tiles apart pls 🙏help
Yes, point the wedge towards the tile that is already set, away from the tile you are setting.
@TileCoach you are amazing for answering. Thank you my friend!
👍👍😊
You didn't dumb this one down enough for the beginners lol. There was a lot of math with some of the details missing. Like how would you square off the room using lasers if your measurements weren't perfect?
3-4-5
I’m lost guess this is for the more advanced tile layer.
There is too much measurement for me
Sir how to orde
Why didn't you just cut the base of the door jamb instead of cutting the tile around it? It would have been quicker and easier and looked better.
We did cut the jambs. Look closely.
@@TileCoach Yep, you really did. I don't know what I thought I saw when I made that comment. I probably didn't have my glasses on or something.
What thinset did u use? Megalite?
All Set :)
U used the all set for warranty case later?
Nice vid! But dang! You looked 60 years old in 2012 lol
Love your videos sir! Question, when laying your tiles out, are you considering the width of the grout line too? Or since they are an 1/8 or a 1/4, you just round off?
Yes, the easiest way is to dry set 3-10 tiles with spacers in another room/bare floor. You can then Take measurements from the dry set spaced tile.
Isaac , are you trying to mislead diyers or are you not good at tile setting?
Thanks Steven. No alcohol, exercise, and a happy wife! I love my job too, makes a big difference.
To each their own I hate cut tiles on one side of the room if possible, border tiles around the perimeter room with all tiles in the middle whole tiles not always possible admittedly, leveling clips can’t stand them. I find it easier to level without them.
I used to be against clips too! Now I wont do a 12x24 without them. It's kinda like cheating...
Don't forget to pull out the batteries in your laser (and other tools) when not in use... had more than 1 tool destroyed by leaking batteries over long storage.... yes even with top name brand batteries.
It seems to me that if you had the laser level on a tripod you would be able to see your far away marks much easier.
I thought you were supposed to flash over that prior to installing..
You guys really need to start using the metric system, I didnt understand a singel measurement 🤔🤔🤔
Great video. But where is the fokn free tile layout app in this industry!!? Simply draw out your dimensions, enter tile size and grout size, then preferred orientation. And boom, you get your layout with cut list and numbered. Very basic. Decking industry has multiple.
The bathtub is parallel with the vanity not Square
Double video ads in every 3 minutes. Well done...