If you are looking to improve or even start miniature painting, check out Scott's channel here" ruclips.net/video/AXohx4VUfQk/видео.html Tell him Robbie sent you.
Again a masterful model, the weathering is wonderful! On a personal note thank you for all the advice you're putting out for free, as a millennial generation modeller I'm still learning a lot and your videos are always an excellent guide, an inspiration and certainly make me want to improve my skills!
I’m glad to hear the videos are helpful Mark. Just remember we’re all at different points on the path so don’t be worried that you have to catch up. We were all there at one point
Fantastic subject, especially how that aircraft turned the tide in the Pacific theatre. The heavy weathering also tells the tale of it being upside down in a bog before recovery by the US.
Love doing Dios! Your groundwork and detailing are great! The concrete turned out very realistic. I have used concrete board (used for shower walls) in the past but your method seems easier. From a next door neighbour (Saskatchewan)
Last diorama I did was a U-2 landing. Basically just a piece of wood that I used a texturing rattle can paint, then put the marking lines and a variety of grays (not 50 shades though). Eventually got it looking like a worn runway.
As I do love your builds and commentary I wish that these aircraft could not only be static restorations but also be airworthy. I know this gets off track of our hobby( sorry for that), awesome work as always, keep it coming!!
I would love to see more dioramas from you this one was very good, if you plan on doing more I would reccomend sculpt a mold which is a very easy way to make terrain for dioramas
I’ll keep that in mind. Das Clay was the more available and financially sound choice. As for the next diorama, I have lots of ideas but need more hours in the day
Great model and diorama combination. The combo definitely brings your work into an excellent three D (life like), appearance. One thing I've never tried is letting the model set directly in the sun to see if that adds any additional fading. One base I used to use is individual pieces of linoleum title, turned upside down the back looks just like concrete. Not sure if "flooring" stores have changed that. Then you design whatever you want. I used straight black oil paint from the tube as tar . Another source for diorama material is model railroad shops . "O" scale is equal to 1/48. PSP pierced steel planking, I use to make by hand but I imagine somewhere in all these accessory parts, its available commercially That Japanese flag is a great touch.
@@TheModelGuy That's great to know, I guess with three D printers you can always explore as well. I'm just know getting back in the game after retiring - so much to learn. But I know what you mean when you say " it will be a while ". The model shows were real budget killers :-) You'd usually buy without a project most of the vendors were so stocked with new stuff. I built my dads B24 in 1/48, with nose art. It almost took as much time to hand make the PSP as it did the model. Thanks for the info to this "old" newbie.
@@TheModelGuy Tamiya's and Hesegawa's 1:24 Le Mans prototypes and sports cars are good to start with. There are lots of aftermarket parts and decals to improve them if you want to build them up.
Yes, I am. In 1/24 scale. The old Bandai kit. It needs some updates on the cockpit and the wheel wells. Overall for a kit from the mid 70’s it’s gem from the past. Their 24th scale Zero is a model 52c variant and is on par with the George.
Nicely done. I do like ICM figures and have used them in 1/48 and 1/32 scenes. Challenges you ask? On the aforementioned diorama #1, the masking tape on the frame stuck in spackling I used for the terrain. And still struggle with static grass some. Successes though, figure painting gotten halfway decent. One tip I saw was the wet palette and must say it makes blending and adding those light layers easier. I also use a matte medium which helps avoiding shiny people and the blending.
I’m not sure if I just suck but I’m really having trouble with the wet pallet for skin tones. The other colours were no problem. After seeing my pics here I need at least one more black pass on the base.
@@fotomakr I agree. Skin tones and the face are hardest because we're people and we recognize people and emotions by.our faces. Also, shiny clothing is a dead giveaway.
Hey Robbie.. I don't think you wasted your time at all.. painting and detailing plane interiors is almost always going to be work that goes unseen or mostly unseen after the fuselage is closed up.. but WE KNOW WE DID IT (and we usually enjoyed doing it) so all's good, eh? Your detailing is wonderful. Some great tips in this video too, which are most appreciated. I'll have to try chipping the next time I do a WWII plane.. I've only built one to date as I focus on WWI planes and figures. I haven't tried airbrushing figures per your video and Nightshift's approach, but I also almost always use Vallejo paints for the skin tones. Your mechanic came out great.. very impressed with what you did on a first effort! I agree that one should give the figure as much as effort as the plane. I'm also a rookie with dioramas. What you did for a first build is brilliant. Great job all around and thanks for sharing with us!
Excellent work, Robbie. I really like the composition of the diorama and especially the chipping on the George. Everything looks very realistic to me. Always looking forward to your videos!!! Cheers and best regards from Germany.
@@TheModelGuy That's the Revell PzH 2000, right? I built that 23 years ago as a kid, but unfortunately never finished it. It was in the same stage as yours in the post the other day. Are you building another diorama for it? Would love to see that! Best regards to Alberta!
Thanks as always for putting out the content. Dunno what about what we talked about before with sandwich shading and chipping wasn't clicking, but seeing the way you did it in the video made it click. I'm working on the arma hobby 1/72 yak-1b and managed a pretty good result with both the chipping and the sandwich shading, so thanks again for your tips there as well. I'm also starting to dabble into dio's so we'll see how I get on with that.
As you I'm working on my first vignette/small diorama. Most difficult for me for the moment is my lack of good references to choice de colors of uniforms... Searching for "USAAF uniforms paint/color" and result is poor... (after some days I decided to follow an old Eduard notice). Then it is the way to build a diorama... And last but not least, it looks to take more space on the workbench, already full... So I know I want to do it, but beginning is not as easy as beginning a plane... I just have to dare to begin !😅
One big tip I followed from the armor guys is to keep the diorama base as small as possible. That cuts down on dead space. ICM had colour call outs on the figure set that helped out.
Hey man looks good but just add a few more coats of back to the base also to get a smooth finish on the sides I use a tiny amount of plaster and wood glue mixed with black the sanded smooth
my other request is that if you plan to build the tempest do the 1/32 scale and not the 1/48. I would be very happy if you accept my request. love from pakistan
I’ll be honest my first attempt at a diorama consisted of screwed up paper towels painted green and a toilet paper roll as a control tower 😂. This has inspired to maybe invest in some better diorama materials and supplies. Great video 👍
Love the work. If you like planes with patina, you’d be hard pressed to do better than a late-war (or captured) Japanese subject. I’m half-way done with Hasegawa’s equally good Ki-84 and taking an almost identical approach for the weathering and chipping. The mid-2000s JT kits are a great value and go together like Tamiya tooled them!
If you decide on doing more figures, have you ever thought about checking out the Citadel Contrast line for skin tones? I am coming from a Warhammer background into model making and I am happy to still have some jars of those around just to handle skin tones because that was always my most hated thing to paint on my miniatures. It's also great for cloth, but colour matching historical uniforms with that line of paints just seems like more of a pain in the ass than it might be worth for diorama work.
The biggest problem I have with dioramas is getting a nice looking base at that size. Heavy models on foam bases create weight/balance issues and I dont really have the tools to work with wood to make the bases.
Just found your channel and absolutely love it. Also noticed your from Alberta! Any chance of putting together a CF-188 model? I'm at CFB Cold Lake as a CF-188 maintainer and would love to see a model of one, Cheers!
Glad to see you taking a break from killing nazis! I did the Canada 150 CF-18 two years ago and definitely need to revisit it. It's up on my channel here: ruclips.net/video/GymqpLm5538/видео.html I'll definitely be revisiting it later this year though.
Great work! I love dioramas, you can come up with so many stories with them. At the moment im planning a huge at least table sized WW2 "what if" diorama, it will be a french town, where american units gather, the central "piece" will be an M25 Dragon Wagon with a brand new T29 heavy tank for the armored units in town, and everyone will show interest in the new tank :)
Nice job on your first diorama and figure. It's really.important that the diorama look whole, not just a plane and figure stuck on a board. That requires thought and subtlety -- stay away from bright colours and straight lines. Particularly in 1:72 (HO scale) and 1:48 (O scale) model railroad shops are your friends, Building scenery, people, and equipment is half the hobby. Where did you find Modge Podge and that etched mottle stencil in Alberta? The late Shep Paine used ro urge that a diorama needs to tell a story to engage the viewer, not just some stuff and grass plopped on a board. You already know how to do that by the way tone down paint and build up weathering on your models. Thoughtfully building up the effect means you can go back an correct things -- as soon as you did your Japanese meatball disc's I knew you'd come back to them because they were too bright and intense. For decades markings in Japanese aircraft kits were squintingly bright. Top: For small cockpit items -- switches, lights, etc. -- forget the brush and apply a daub of paint with the tip of a toothpick. Also, when chipping away at the paint finish, you can get different effects over the chipping fluid by trimming the toothpick tip on a slant with a sharp knife. Bravo! Thanks for sharing!
It would have been nice to see more reference photos. The two previous reference photos used here showed a lot of surface rippling that would be almost impossible to replicate with a kit... The rippling was not from normal wear, but probably from nearby bomb blasts.
Lovely. Really like this. Thanks for the tips on figure painting, this is my next hill to climb as I am not that good. Do you have a link to the Channel Small Soldiers - searching you get endless links to the movie. Keep up the great work.
@@TheModelGuy the issue I believe you're having is to much paint and not enough water, the mix should be roughly 90% water. Then you dab most of the paint off on a paper towel. Hope this helps you. Only use a retarder on when and IF you want add shadow and highlight detail, because sometimes you'll cover your shadow and highlights with the glaze. Anyways hope this helps.
If you are looking to improve or even start miniature painting, check out Scott's channel here"
ruclips.net/video/AXohx4VUfQk/видео.html
Tell him Robbie sent you.
Again a masterful model, the weathering is wonderful!
On a personal note thank you for all the advice you're putting out for free, as a millennial generation modeller I'm still learning a lot and your videos are always an excellent guide, an inspiration and certainly make me want to improve my skills!
I’m glad to hear the videos are helpful Mark. Just remember we’re all at different points on the path so don’t be worried that you have to catch up. We were all there at one point
Outstanding weathering work - very very impressive - thanks for sharing
Thanks Ralph
Fantastic subject, especially how that aircraft turned the tide in the Pacific theatre. The heavy weathering also tells the tale of it being upside down in a bog before recovery by the US.
Great work with that one👍Nice paintwork and a good looking peace of airstrip. And also i like the way you talk through your work😉
Love doing Dios! Your groundwork and detailing are great! The concrete turned out very realistic. I have used concrete board (used for shower walls) in the past but your method seems easier.
From a next door neighbour (Saskatchewan)
Thanks Benny!
*MARVELOUS! The plane, the figurine, the diorama ... excellent work!*
Thanks bud. The figure was the most challenging part of this build
this is a really good build. Congrats
Remarkable work Robbie! The tones and chipping really complement each other nicely.
Nicely done there Robbie. I've the same figure painted up sitting on a shelf, waiting on a plane to come in.
The icm stuff is a real bargain. I have some 1/35 figs from them that are really sharp. Highly recommend them
Very cool effects!
Thanks!
Excellent job. Congratularions. I really enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing!.
Thank you Pucara!
Last diorama I did was a U-2 landing. Basically just a piece of wood that I used a texturing rattle can paint, then put the marking lines and a variety of grays (not 50 shades though). Eventually got it looking like a worn runway.
Nice! It’s always cool to see how those land with the chase car
@@TheModelGuy chase car was included. Late 90’s era Camaro. Brother in law flew them at that time, and did markings for one he flew.
Very well done!
Thanks Michael
As I do love your builds and commentary I wish that these aircraft could not only be static restorations but also be airworthy. I know this gets off track of our hobby( sorry for that), awesome work as always, keep it coming!!
I would love to see more dioramas from you this one was very good, if you plan on doing more I would reccomend sculpt a mold which is a very easy way to make terrain for dioramas
I’ll keep that in mind. Das Clay was the more available and financially sound choice.
As for the next diorama, I have lots of ideas but need more hours in the day
I think this is a amazing kit I hope you will do more japanese aircraft a very well done 👍👍
There definitely is a huge interest growing for Japanese aircraft. It’s awesome to see
Very well built and I was impressed with the diorama! For your first one you did great imo!
Thanks Tim!
Great model and diorama combination. The combo definitely brings your work into an excellent three D (life like), appearance. One thing I've never tried is letting the model set directly in the sun to see if that adds any additional fading. One base I used to use is individual pieces of linoleum title, turned upside down the back looks just like concrete. Not sure if "flooring" stores have changed that. Then you design whatever you want. I used straight black oil paint from the tube as tar . Another source for diorama material is model railroad shops . "O" scale is equal to 1/48. PSP pierced steel planking, I use to make by hand but I imagine somewhere in all these accessory parts, its available commercially That Japanese flag is a great touch.
I have some photoetch psp but it may be a while before it’s used.
Even lightly sanding the paint will give you a worn look
@@TheModelGuy That's great to know, I guess with three D printers you can always explore as well. I'm just know getting back in the game after retiring - so much to learn. But I know what you mean when you say " it will be a while ". The model shows were real budget killers :-) You'd usually buy without a project most of the vendors were so stocked with new stuff. I built my dads B24 in 1/48, with nose art. It almost took as much time to hand make the PSP as it did the model. Thanks for the info to this "old" newbie.
Great job Robbie! ...Love the build!
Thanks Daniel. What’s your favourite model genre?
@@TheModelGuy I'm pretty split even between Race cars & Military Aircraft builds. Thanks for asking! :)
@@danielcgomez that’s cool. What are some car kits you’d recommend?
@@TheModelGuy I like race cars mostly ...look into either Nascar or F1 kits. And I have them look post-race wear and tear, ha!
@@TheModelGuy
Tamiya's and Hesegawa's 1:24 Le Mans prototypes and sports cars are good to start with. There are lots of aftermarket parts and decals to improve them if you want to build them up.
I love this video. A perfect tutorial for me. Thank you 🎉❤
That’s awesome to hear Steve. Are you building a George too?
Yes, I am. In 1/24 scale. The old Bandai kit. It needs some updates on the cockpit and the wheel wells. Overall for a kit from the mid 70’s it’s gem from the past. Their 24th scale Zero is a model 52c variant and is on par with the George.
@@stevepringle2295 that’s awesome! Be sure to send me some pics
Certainly
Good advice
I tried to be honest
Nicely done. I do like ICM figures and have used them in 1/48 and 1/32 scenes. Challenges you ask? On the aforementioned diorama #1, the masking tape on the frame stuck in spackling I used for the terrain. And still struggle with static grass some. Successes though, figure painting gotten halfway decent. One tip I saw was the wet palette and must say it makes blending and adding those light layers easier. I also use a matte medium which helps avoiding shiny people and the blending.
I’m not sure if I just suck but I’m really having trouble with the wet pallet for skin tones. The other colours were no problem.
After seeing my pics here I need at least one more black pass on the base.
@@TheModelGuy I thought the dude looked good as did the diorama.
@@fotomakr
I agree. Skin tones and the face are hardest because we're people and we recognize people and emotions by.our faces.
Also, shiny clothing is a dead giveaway.
Hey Robbie.. I don't think you wasted your time at all.. painting and detailing plane interiors is almost always going to be work that goes unseen or mostly unseen after the fuselage is closed up.. but WE KNOW WE DID IT (and we usually enjoyed doing it) so all's good, eh? Your detailing is wonderful. Some great tips in this video too, which are most appreciated. I'll have to try chipping the next time I do a WWII plane.. I've only built one to date as I focus on WWI planes and figures. I haven't tried airbrushing figures per your video and Nightshift's approach, but I also almost always use Vallejo paints for the skin tones. Your mechanic came out great.. very impressed with what you did on a first effort! I agree that one should give the figure as much as effort as the plane. I'm also a rookie with dioramas. What you did for a first build is brilliant. Great job all around and thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks Mark. It was cool to see how much other people put into a diorama to make it effective. Even if it’s simple.
Wow - great work - no one would suspect thats your first diorama.
Thanks blue! A lot of research went into this before I was confident enough to try it
Absolutely detac your tape when using chipping fluid. I learned the hard way that resulted in one big, Oh nooo !
Exactly! But if the chipping fluid is on too thick, breathing on the paint will lift it too
Excellent work, Robbie. I really like the composition of the diorama and especially the chipping on the George. Everything looks very realistic to me. Always looking forward to your videos!!! Cheers and best regards from Germany.
Thanks dude! I’m working on one of your countries PzH 2000s as well. Just on hold for the Wildcat review.
@@TheModelGuy That's the Revell PzH 2000, right? I built that 23 years ago as a kid, but unfortunately never finished it. It was in the same stage as yours in the post the other day. Are you building another diorama for it? Would love to see that! Best regards to Alberta!
@@TheModelorian it’s the Meng one. I tend to steer clear of Revell.
Thanks as always for putting out the content. Dunno what about what we talked about before with sandwich shading and chipping wasn't clicking, but seeing the way you did it in the video made it click. I'm working on the arma hobby 1/72 yak-1b and managed a pretty good result with both the chipping and the sandwich shading, so thanks again for your tips there as well. I'm also starting to dabble into dio's so we'll see how I get on with that.
I’m glad to hear that! Chipping can be such a challenge to get a handle on. Especially throwing in more layers on it. I’m glad the content helps!
As you I'm working on my first vignette/small diorama. Most difficult for me for the moment is my lack of good references to choice de colors of uniforms... Searching for "USAAF uniforms paint/color" and result is poor... (after some days I decided to follow an old Eduard notice). Then it is the way to build a diorama... And last but not least, it looks to take more space on the workbench, already full...
So I know I want to do it, but beginning is not as easy as beginning a plane... I just have to dare to begin !😅
One big tip I followed from the armor guys is to keep the diorama base as small as possible. That cuts down on dead space. ICM had colour call outs on the figure set that helped out.
Hey man looks good but just add a few more coats of back to the base also to get a smooth finish on the sides I use a tiny amount of plaster and wood glue mixed with black the sanded smooth
Will do. It’s never too late to touch up.
bravo its an amazing diorama
Thank you Omer :)
@@TheModelGuy can i make a request ?
@@TheModelGuy can you build this 1/32 tempest in a pakistani scheme or the spitfire in indian scheme
my other request is that if you plan to build the tempest do the 1/32 scale and not the 1/48. I would be very happy if you accept my request. love from pakistan
@@TheModelGuy how do i send you the links of the model kits that i want to be built ?
Great job man!
Thank you :)
Nice!! I really should brave having a go at chipping someday, the advice on the thin coats for the fluid is really helpful as I’ve always had it pool
As soon as it starts to bead it's too heavy. You could start with a japanese aircraft because there's no such thing as over-chipping them lol
Very, very nice. 👍
I’ll be honest my first attempt at a diorama consisted of screwed up paper towels painted green and a toilet paper roll as a control tower 😂. This has inspired to maybe invest in some better diorama materials and supplies. Great video 👍
I used a scrap piece of wood and $10 putty :)
@@TheModelGuy Oo don’t know if I can manage that 😂
Love the work. If you like planes with patina, you’d be hard pressed to do better than a late-war (or captured) Japanese subject.
I’m half-way done with Hasegawa’s equally good Ki-84 and taking an almost identical approach for the weathering and chipping. The mid-2000s JT kits are a great value and go together like Tamiya tooled them!
The only thing that comes remotely close is capture Luftwaffe aircraft being disposed in WWIi
If you decide on doing more figures, have you ever thought about checking out the Citadel Contrast line for skin tones? I am coming from a Warhammer background into model making and I am happy to still have some jars of those around just to handle skin tones because that was always my most hated thing to paint on my miniatures. It's also great for cloth, but colour matching historical uniforms with that line of paints just seems like more of a pain in the ass than it might be worth for diorama work.
I’d consider anything to make it a bit more manageable. I have some citadel colours for detail painting. What colours do you recommend for skins?
The biggest problem I have with dioramas is getting a nice looking base at that size. Heavy models on foam bases create weight/balance issues and I dont really have the tools to work with wood to make the bases.
One option is to grab pre-cut bases at Michaels to work with.
Just found your channel and absolutely love it. Also noticed your from Alberta! Any chance of putting together a CF-188 model? I'm at CFB Cold Lake as a CF-188 maintainer and would love to see a model of one, Cheers!
Glad to see you taking a break from killing nazis!
I did the Canada 150 CF-18 two years ago and definitely need to revisit it. It's up on my channel here:
ruclips.net/video/GymqpLm5538/видео.html
I'll definitely be revisiting it later this year though.
Great work as usual. What paints did you use? lacquer? Cheers
I use lacquers as much as possible as they’re very durable
Neat channel. What part of AB are you from? I'm an hour north of edmonton.
I’m an hour east of Calgary. Close to Gleichen
Great work! I love dioramas, you can come up with so many stories with them. At the moment im planning a huge at least table sized WW2 "what if" diorama, it will be a french town, where american units gather, the central "piece" will be an M25 Dragon Wagon with a brand new T29 heavy tank for the armored units in town, and everyone will show interest in the new tank :)
That’s awesome! I wouldn’t have room for that
@@TheModelGuy Yeah, i dont have much space either, so it wont be easy to work out, but this diorama will be one of my dream projects
Nice job on your first diorama and figure. It's really.important that the diorama look whole, not just a plane and figure stuck on a board. That requires thought and subtlety -- stay away from bright colours and straight lines.
Particularly in 1:72 (HO scale) and 1:48 (O scale) model railroad shops are your friends, Building scenery, people, and equipment is half the hobby. Where did you find Modge Podge and that etched mottle stencil in Alberta?
The late Shep Paine used ro urge that a diorama needs to tell a story to engage the viewer, not just some stuff and grass plopped on a board. You already know how to do that by the way tone down paint and build up weathering on your models. Thoughtfully building up the effect means you can go back an correct things -- as soon as you did your Japanese meatball disc's I knew you'd come back to them because they were too bright and intense. For decades markings in Japanese aircraft kits were squintingly bright.
Top: For small cockpit items -- switches, lights, etc. -- forget the brush and apply a daub of paint with the tip of a toothpick. Also, when chipping away at the paint finish, you can get different effects over the chipping fluid by trimming the toothpick tip on a slant with a sharp knife.
Bravo! Thanks for sharing!
I found modge podge at Michael’s craft store and the stencils I ordered online from Ultracast. Where are you in Alberta?
Very nice…
Thanks Beck!
It would have been nice to see more reference photos. The two previous reference photos used here showed a lot of surface rippling that would be almost impossible to replicate with a kit... The rippling was not from normal wear, but probably from nearby bomb blasts.
I think what you are referring to is called oil canning. As for reference photos, I have to be careful in case they are copyrighted
Lovely. Really like this.
Thanks for the tips on figure painting, this is my next hill to climb as I am not that good.
Do you have a link to the Channel Small Soldiers - searching you get endless links to the movie.
Keep up the great work.
This is the channel here:ruclips.net/video/AXohx4VUfQk/видео.html
Tell him Robbie sent you :)
Great It doesn't look like 1/48 but a more bigger scale.
Thank you! Luftram72 is a master is doing that. Check him out on IG
Just a comment for the algorithm.
Thanks dude. I see you doing this across a few modelling channels and can say we all appreciate it.
All hail the algorithm
Nice. One...
Thanks Kevin
Where did you get this template for painting at 7:27?
It’s the Uschi splatter template
@@TheModelGuy Awesome...thanks!!! Just watched your P 47 video...nice job!!
Hi
Very very very very thin layers, with Very very very little paint on the brush and some times it takes 10 or more layers of paint.
My biggest problem is getting consistent paint mixes to do that. I keep getting over stepping glaze into wash haha
@@TheModelGuy the issue I believe you're having is to much paint and not enough water, the mix should be roughly 90% water. Then you dab most of the paint off on a paper towel. Hope this helps you. Only use a retarder on when and IF you want add shadow and highlight detail, because sometimes you'll cover your shadow and highlights with the glaze. Anyways hope this helps.
@@rickmoreno6858 I’ll definitely be trying again
Hi
Hello!
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Hi
Hi
Hi