I agree. When connecting wire to a breaker, I find a Robertson/Square Head driver (or a combo Robertson - Slot) safer and easier to use than a slotted driver.
You saved yourself 25 bucks on wire doing last year instead of this year. I just bought of 125 feer of this wire to install this same heater and it's over 2 bucks a foot now. Also, for anyone else reading who is planing on getting this permitted, no inspector is going to be ok with you putting 10 AWG wire or a 30amp breaker on this unit. Not trying to be the code police, I will admit to also considering it as I don't plan to run it over the 6k setting, but just make sure to use 8/2 and a 40amp to be safe.
Thanks for watching. Definitely agree with you on the code and the size wire and breaker to install. I would rather spend the money on the heavier gauge wire and 40amp breaker, even if I didn't use it would still be cheaper in the long run instead of running new wire plus its safer.
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 I completely agree, I am running it directly into the unit like you did, but when I finish the wall it's mounted near, I will convert it to a 40amp receptable. ThenI will put a plug on the heater, and I can plug whatever I want in there at later date if I so choose. Also, somehow with these crazy times we live in, the different between 30A and 40A wire (125feet) was only about 20 bucks. I don't do a lot with 8 AWG, but it seems like that's way too close in price between the two gauges. In the process of doing doing the unstained knotty pine out there like you, looks awesome in your shop. The door behind is also amazing, not sure where you got that from but it's beautiful.
@@kevinmach730 thank you, appreciate the compliments. When I installed the pine, I was getting it for around $.36 a foot, but they were considered 2nds though. The door is handmade. I took a sheet of 3/4" plywood and sandwiched it between rough cut lumber. Can't remember off hand how tall it is but it is 44" wide and 2.5" think
Great video! I really appreciate details. I have a 2 car garage with not much more space then space for 2 vehicles and a small work bench. Would this be enough to heat it to 70 degrees or do I need a 10,000 watt?
Thanks for watching For a well insulated building you are looking at around 20 btus per square foot, more btus for less insulated . This unit does around 1200 square feet. So it really depends on how well insulated it is. But I’m thinking it should be.
So how did you keep it from cycling on and off and the temp not showing correctly? I've read it's a known issue and the suggestion was to pull the temp sensing wires out and let them hang, didn't do anything to correct the problem for me.
I have noticed the temp on the heater and my wall mounted thermostat have about a five degree difference. I chalked it up to having a wood stove in the same room and didn’t think much of it. But the heaters fan does turn on and off as it regulates the temperature in the room, but it is quite and I hardly notice the noise when it is on. So I now I usually just the thermostat about five degrees higher than what I want the wall thermostat to display.
great video. Srry if i missed you telling us but does this heater have an automatic thermostat. Like, if I set the temperature to 60 degrees will it automatically cycle on and off to maintain the 60 degree temperature? Thanks
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 I have a barn loft with kitchen and living area that is about 500 sqft. Everything is well insulated. Temperature here gets down to around -2 F occasionally. Do you think this heater size will be a good choice? I want it to heat from the lowest setting to around 64 degrees quickly.
Yeah it should heat it just fine if it is well insulated. It will be a lot easier for it to maintain the temp of its on all the time then like what I do, I turn mine on until the wood stove is up and running
Does the heater turn off after 12 hours or can you set it at say 60 degrees and leave it on for weeks and it maintain the temperature? The description online isn’t very clear if it automatically turns off every 12 hours or if you have the option to set it between 1-12 hours. I had planned to use it in a shop where I have to have consistent heat, can’t have it dropping down to winter temps and then only being warm when I’m there. Will be days where I’m not there.
I bought the CZ220 (5000) model and I’m waiting for it to be delivered but I’ve seen 2 manuals online, one stating that from the floor to the heater there has to be a minimum of 6ft and the other one stating 8ft. Where I want to install it will be 5 1/2 feet from the ground to the bottom of this heater do you see an issue with that if it’s out of the way of everything else?
I agree the manuals leave a lot out and are pretty vague. What kind of floor do you have? I mean I probably would install it but I would definitely leave enough wire to move it if need be and monitor it to make sure you won’t have any issues. Thanks for watching.
Ok I have the fan things pointed down and even on the high setting the floor doesn’t get hot or anything. I would say you would be ok as long as you don’t have it directed to the flooring. I have 9’ ceilings and I would say I have 6’-7’ clearance from the bottom of my heater to the floor and just a side note I do have pointing downward and it’s probably 5’ or less to the top of my workbench and I haven’t noticed anything bad happening. I hope I have helped and thanks for watching
How do u like this heater ? I have a 3 car garage/ man cave fully insulated and looking for something to heat it up and cool it in the summer. I was looking at dyi Costco 18000 btu Mr cool minisplit system which is $1600 but it has both ac/heating in one unit. I don't know which rout to go, get a heater dyna glow 15000 watts right now for $500 and buy something else for the summer time or just get the minisplit system?? I have a pool table in there and a gym:). I love in Clovis California in 9b zone I think or 9
The heater works well, I mainly use it in the winter time to take the edge off the shop until the wood stove is up and running. My space is 28’x15’. Convenience wise the mini split would be the way to go, looks nice when it’s installed, no need for two separate units to heat and cool, and looks cleaner than an ac sticking out a window
im trying to find a heater that can be powered by rechargeable battery for a van. if i have to maybe il buy a power brick and get a usb powered one but im hoping i can find something better i know it probably exists but the google results are practically useless if anyone knows something lmk id really appreciate it.
You should have bought the correct wire for the hookup. You wanted 8/3 black red and a white and then capped off the neutral in the unit that way you are not landing a white wire (neutral) on breaker. To be up to code you must have a neutral available.
You certainly could do that if you want, it is not needed and it shows what wire to use in the manual for it. Here is a link for it, www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/20390.pdf Thanks for watching
I bought a Thermo Sphere with a remote. I know this is wrong but I wanted to see if the heater would work. I used a 10/2 wire with 40amp breaker. I know this isn’t the correct way to wire it. Fan runs on high but only gets up to 60 degrees. The instructions said use the white wire and put it in the L1 slot and the black in L2. Could this be the reason the temp want get any higher than 60 degrees? I bought one just like you have I’m confused about how to wire it now. I have always put black wire in L1. I know the white wire is neutral but this has me confused! I don’t want to mess this heater up. Please need help I’m freezing!! Lol
My guess is the size wire, 10/2 is too small and because you are using a bigger breaker it isn't tripping it and not letting you run it on a higher heat setting. As far as the wiring it shouldn't matter because you are wiring it up as 220v/240v (two pole breaker), both the white and the black are hot and the ground is still the ground. Hopefully this helps.
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 thanks for responding!! That means a lot to me. I kept on checking the wires but they never got hot! Like I said I knew it wasn’t the correct way but I just didn’t understand the white wire had to be in L1 but if you knew me everything I touch goes to Sh!t!!! Lol thanks again
I just got the same one i put the same wire 8 2 But the circuit breaker i put is 20 The fan spins slow does not pass more then 52°f i put it on high and low Do you think is the breaker
The heater, which includes the blower motor and heating elements, is designed to operate at 240-volts. If the blower is operating, the unit has power. There has to be a different explanation for the heating elements not functioning. A proper installation should use 8-2 nonmetallic sheathed cable (Romex), if that’s the wiring ‘method’ you prefer to use, and a 40-ampere, 2-pole circuit breaker. A 30-amp breaker is designed to provide a maximum of 7,200 watts at a nominal 240-volts; a 7,500 watt heater, which doesn’t include the motor amperage would not comply with the electrical code.
Just hooked up the same heater and got no power for some reason. Tester shows power coming to the terminals in the heater but nothing? Using a single 40 amp breaker and 8/2. Wondering if the unit is faulty....
Maybe the wiring to the controller isn’t hooked up right, not really sure without being there to look at. If it is faulty hopefully you can exchange it easily.
I bought one of these. The thermostat doesn't even come close to working. I turn it up to 75 to keep my shop at 62 when I am not in the shop. I have a thermometer mounted on the wall about 6 ft behind the heater. The heater reads 75 and shuts off. When I am in the shop I turn the heater up to 85. It's gets my shop up to 72 when it's 20 outside. When it's on high it really blows some heat. Just wish the thermostat worked better.
Yep, I pretty much do the same except for turning it up that high. I have wood stove for primary heat and I have the heater as sort of a back up incase I forget to load the stove up after done for the day. Thanks for watching
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 I just bought four units of the Comfort Zone 5000W Fan-Forced Ceiling Mount Heater for my four bay shop. I've been watching YT videos such as yours to see how happy people were with the Comfort Zone brand. Your video came in very informative. I too am running off a [D] Homeline panel. I'm pulling 118volts per pole. My amperage calculation for the 5000W heaters came to 21.186 amps. (20.834amp @ 240volts) I'll be pulling 10 gauge copper wire and I've opted for the 2-pole, 25amp (Square D HOM225) Circuit Breakers rather than going up to the 30amp. I might be overly cautious. I'm curious if you considered the [D] Homeline 2-pole, 35amp (Square D HOM235) before you chose the 40amp breaker.
13 minutes of jacking your jaw instead of showing how the install goes. Then 3 minutes of work. I don’t care why you haven’t uploaded in a while. I’m here for info. The way you filmed the actual work being done, the whole video could have been completed in less than 5 minutes.
This Gentleman talked me into getting 1 of these, Thanks for the video Sir
Yw thanks for watching
Glad it helped
Thanks for the review and Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Thanks for watching and Merry Christmas to you and yours as well.
I agree. When connecting wire to a breaker, I find a Robertson/Square Head driver (or a combo Robertson - Slot) safer and easier to use than a slotted driver.
Yeah I have never been a big fan of slotted screws or drivers, too much of a PIA.
You saved yourself 25 bucks on wire doing last year instead of this year. I just bought of 125 feer of this wire to install this same heater and it's over 2 bucks a foot now. Also, for anyone else reading who is planing on getting this permitted, no inspector is going to be ok with you putting 10 AWG wire or a 30amp breaker on this unit. Not trying to be the code police, I will admit to also considering it as I don't plan to run it over the 6k setting, but just make sure to use 8/2 and a 40amp to be safe.
Thanks for watching. Definitely agree with you on the code and the size wire and breaker to install. I would rather spend the money on the heavier gauge wire and 40amp breaker, even if I didn't use it would still be cheaper in the long run instead of running new wire plus its safer.
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 I completely agree, I am running it directly into the unit like you did, but when I finish the wall it's mounted near, I will convert it to a 40amp receptable. ThenI will put a plug on the heater, and I can plug whatever I want in there at later date if I so choose. Also, somehow with these crazy times we live in, the different between 30A and 40A wire (125feet) was only about 20 bucks. I don't do a lot with 8 AWG, but it seems like that's way too close in price between the two gauges. In the process of doing doing the unstained knotty pine out there like you, looks awesome in your shop. The door behind is also amazing, not sure where you got that from but it's beautiful.
@@kevinmach730 thank you, appreciate the compliments. When I installed the pine, I was getting it for around $.36 a foot, but they were considered 2nds though. The door is handmade. I took a sheet of 3/4" plywood and sandwiched it between rough cut lumber. Can't remember off hand how tall it is but it is 44" wide and 2.5" think
thanks much for the video. Wish I could have seen you where you hooked the wires to the BOTTOM of the furnace just for giggles.
Thank you for watching, glad it could help. Yeah I should have had a close up of that. Thanks again, I do appreciate it.
I am a big fan of forced air electric resistance heat too.
Thanks for watching
Nice work
Thank you, and thanks for watching
Great video! I really appreciate details. I have a 2 car garage with not much more space then space for 2 vehicles and a small work bench. Would this be enough to heat it to 70 degrees or do I need a 10,000 watt?
Thanks for watching
For a well insulated building you are looking at around 20 btus per square foot, more btus for less insulated . This unit does around 1200 square feet. So it really depends on how well insulated it is. But I’m thinking it should be.
Double checking, to run it on highest heater setting, I need to wire it With 8/2 wire and a double pull 40 amp?
Yes that is correct.
If using the double pole 40 amp breaker and a 8/2 wire do you hook the neutral up to the other pole as a hot wire to get the 240v?
Correct, the black and white wire will connect to the breaker.
Thanks for watching
So how did you keep it from cycling on and off and the temp not showing correctly? I've read it's a known issue and the suggestion was to pull the temp sensing wires out and let them hang, didn't do anything to correct the problem for me.
I have noticed the temp on the heater and my wall mounted thermostat have about a five degree difference. I chalked it up to having a wood stove in the same room and didn’t think much of it.
But the heaters fan does turn on and off as it regulates the temperature in the room, but it is quite and I hardly notice the noise when it is on.
So I now I usually just the thermostat about five degrees higher than what I want the wall thermostat to display.
great video. Srry if i missed you telling us but does this heater have an automatic thermostat. Like, if I set the temperature to 60 degrees will it automatically cycle on and off to maintain the 60 degree temperature? Thanks
Thank you
Yes the one I have I can set the temp and it will cycle on and off.
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 Thank you for your quick response.
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 I have a barn loft with kitchen and living area that is about 500 sqft. Everything is well insulated. Temperature here gets down to around -2 F occasionally. Do you think this heater size will be a good choice? I want it to heat from the lowest setting to around 64 degrees quickly.
Yw
Yeah it should heat it just fine if it is well insulated. It will be a lot easier for it to maintain the temp of its on all the time then like what I do, I turn mine on until the wood stove is up and running
Does the heater turn off after 12 hours or can you set it at say 60 degrees and leave it on for weeks and it maintain the temperature? The description online isn’t very clear if it automatically turns off every 12 hours or if you have the option to set it between 1-12 hours. I had planned to use it in a shop where I have to have consistent heat, can’t have it dropping down to winter temps and then only being warm when I’m there. Will be days where I’m not there.
You can set and forget it, but when using the timer it will shut off after the time it is set for. thanks for watching
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 ok thank you. What’s the longest you have ever ran yours for?
@@alexbowen2010 couple days with no issue
I bought the CZ220 (5000) model and I’m waiting for it to be delivered but I’ve seen 2 manuals online, one stating that from the floor to the heater there has to be a minimum of 6ft and the other one stating 8ft. Where I want to install it will be 5 1/2 feet from the ground to the bottom of this heater do you see an issue with that if it’s out of the way of everything else?
I agree the manuals leave a lot out and are pretty vague. What kind of floor do you have? I mean I probably would install it but I would definitely leave enough wire to move it if need be and monitor it to make sure you won’t have any issues.
Thanks for watching.
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 Right not the floor is concrete but I be installed PVC snap in floor tiles next week.
Ok
I have the fan things pointed down and even on the high setting the floor doesn’t get hot or anything. I would say you would be ok as long as you don’t have it directed to the flooring. I have 9’ ceilings and I would say I have 6’-7’ clearance from the bottom of my heater to the floor and just a side note I do have pointing downward and it’s probably 5’ or less to the top of my workbench and I haven’t noticed anything bad happening. I hope I have helped and thanks for watching
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 My plan is to install the heater with no tilt at the bracket and tilt the blades if needed. Thank you for your help
Sounds good
Your welcome
I have the exact same heater, used it for about a month, this morning turned it on, it’s not heating, the fan runs but no warm air, any advice?
Have you cleaned the heating element or fan and motor. Or the heating element might be bad.
How do u like this heater ? I have a 3 car garage/ man cave fully insulated and looking for something to heat it up and cool it in the summer. I was looking at dyi Costco 18000 btu Mr cool minisplit system which is $1600 but it has both ac/heating in one unit. I don't know which rout to go, get a heater dyna glow 15000 watts right now for $500 and buy something else for the summer time or just get the minisplit system?? I have a pool table in there and a gym:). I love in Clovis California in 9b zone I think or 9
The heater works well, I mainly use it in the winter time to take the edge off the shop until the wood stove is up and running. My space is 28’x15’. Convenience wise the mini split would be the way to go, looks nice when it’s installed, no need for two separate units to heat and cool, and looks cleaner than an ac sticking out a window
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 thank.u
im trying to find a heater that can be powered by rechargeable battery for a van. if i have to maybe il buy a power brick and get a usb powered one but im hoping i can find something better i know it probably exists but the google results are practically useless if anyone knows something lmk id really appreciate it.
Maybe hooking it up to a solar panel would work.
You should have bought the correct wire for the hookup. You wanted 8/3 black red and a white and then capped off the neutral in the unit that way you are not landing a white wire (neutral) on breaker. To be up to code you must have a neutral available.
You certainly could do that if you want, it is not needed and it shows what wire to use in the manual for it. Here is a link for it, www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/20390.pdf
Thanks for watching
You can just label with colored electric tape the wire itself can be black.
I bought a Thermo Sphere with a remote. I know this is wrong but I wanted to see if the heater would work. I used a 10/2 wire with 40amp breaker. I know this isn’t the correct way to wire it. Fan runs on high but only gets up to 60 degrees. The instructions said use the white wire and put it in the L1 slot and the black in L2. Could this be the reason the temp want get any higher than 60 degrees? I bought one just like you have I’m confused about how to wire it now. I have always put black wire in L1. I know the white wire is neutral but this has me confused! I don’t want to mess this heater up. Please need help I’m freezing!! Lol
My guess is the size wire, 10/2 is too small and because you are using a bigger breaker it isn't tripping it and not letting you run it on a higher heat setting. As far as the wiring it shouldn't matter because you are wiring it up as 220v/240v (two pole breaker), both the white and the black are hot and the ground is still the ground. Hopefully this helps.
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 thanks for responding!! That means a lot to me. I kept on checking the wires but they never got hot! Like I said I knew it wasn’t the correct way but I just didn’t understand the white wire had to be in L1 but if you knew me everything I touch goes to Sh!t!!! Lol thanks again
@@rodneywilliamson6048 lol Your welcome
8AWG IS right with a 40 amp breaker.
Can this model be left on all the time and expect it to come on intermittently when the desired temp is set?
Thanks for watching. Yes it can, I have done it several times.
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 thank you
@@aceman1741 yep np
I just got the same one i put the same wire 8 2
But the circuit breaker i put is 20
The fan spins slow does not pass more then 52°f i put it on high and low
Do you think is the breaker
Yeah I would say it is the breaker
you need a 40A breaker
I’m pretty sure I had a 50amp on mine
The heater, which includes the blower motor and heating elements, is designed to operate at 240-volts. If the blower is operating, the unit has power. There has to be a different explanation for the heating elements not functioning. A proper installation should use 8-2 nonmetallic sheathed cable (Romex), if that’s the wiring ‘method’ you prefer to use, and a 40-ampere, 2-pole circuit breaker. A 30-amp breaker is designed to provide a maximum of 7,200 watts at a nominal 240-volts; a 7,500 watt heater, which doesn’t include the motor amperage would not comply with the electrical code.
Just hooked up the same heater and got no power for some reason. Tester shows power coming to the terminals in the heater but nothing? Using a single 40 amp breaker and 8/2. Wondering if the unit is faulty....
Maybe the wiring to the controller isn’t hooked up right, not really sure without being there to look at. If it is faulty hopefully you can exchange it easily.
@@blacklaboutdoors7285 Perhaps. They did say they would take it back...so I guess im pulling it down...
Hopefully the new works for you
I bought one of these. The thermostat doesn't even come close to working. I turn it up to 75 to keep my shop at 62 when I am not in the shop. I have a thermometer mounted on the wall about 6 ft behind the heater. The heater reads 75 and shuts off.
When I am in the shop I turn the heater up to 85. It's gets my shop up to 72 when it's 20 outside. When it's on high it really blows some heat. Just wish the thermostat worked better.
Yep, I pretty much do the same except for turning it up that high. I have wood stove for primary heat and I have the heater as sort of a back up incase I forget to load the stove up after done for the day.
Thanks for watching
The thermostat is inside of the unit, where it's going to be quite warm. Did you place your thermometer close to the heater, or far away?
CN you add your own thermostat to this heater
I don’t think so, the that’s on it seemed to work pretty well.
Thanks for watching
Why does my contactor heat and blow up? I change two time and the same problem
Not sure, what do you mean by contactor
What’s the amperage rating of your contactor? Is the contactor a factory installed unit or did you install it?
Amps = Watts / Volts
7500w / 240v = 31.25amps
Watts = Amps x Volts
Volts = Watts / Amps
Yep that is what I got too and why I jumped to the 40amp breaker. Thanks for watching
@@blacklaboutdoors7285
I just bought four units of the Comfort Zone 5000W Fan-Forced Ceiling Mount Heater for my four bay shop. I've been watching YT videos such as yours to see how happy people were with the Comfort Zone brand. Your video came in very informative.
I too am running off a [D] Homeline panel. I'm pulling 118volts per pole. My amperage calculation for the 5000W heaters came to 21.186 amps. (20.834amp @ 240volts) I'll be pulling 10 gauge copper wire and I've opted for the 2-pole, 25amp (Square D HOM225) Circuit Breakers rather than going up to the 30amp. I might be overly cautious. I'm curious if you considered the [D] Homeline 2-pole, 35amp (Square D HOM235) before you chose the 40amp breaker.
@@GrimmGhost No, I didn't even think of that. Honestly, I didn't know they made a 35amp or maybe they just stock them at my local stores.
13 minutes of jacking your jaw instead of showing how the install goes. Then 3 minutes of work. I don’t care why you haven’t uploaded in a while. I’m here for info. The way you filmed the actual work being done, the whole video could have been completed in less than 5 minutes.
Thanks for watching, appreciate it.
Please like, share, and subscribe if it was any use to you, thanks.