Impressed with dedication work. Wow. We bought few years back 4 acres with house. Just got 2 acres frred of 8 feet tall parsnip & whatever else. Thanks to an experienced (85) neighbor farmer coaching me & lending a hand for small fee with big equipment or i would of seen end of this weed ordeal tell'ya. You teached me something here & i thank you. Cheers :)
I am a soil guy. Cultivating loosens the soil texture and actually reduce drying. It creates a soft soil buffer between the underneath moisture and the dry air. It does cut the plant roots however.
You have mentioned in the video some people told you that by this cultivation the soil become dry. Some people should really stop speaking, because it is at elementary agriculture school that by loosen the soil it increase capability to absorb more water from the rain and by loosening the soil it disconnect upper layer of soil from deeper one and that stop evaporation of water from deeper level out of the field. !! So the cultivation and lossening the soil is one of the MAIN agricultural technics to get more water inside the field, not the opposite. Tightening the soil makes it dry, loosening makes it wet. And of course cowdung absorbes huge amount of water, just put more cowdung into the field and NO DRY season will affect you. ! Now we have those unqualified, unexperienced, just theorethical people sitting in the agri offices and passing nonsenses around. I appreacite your video, if one look at back like 20-30 years one can see these technics were commonly used on large scale farms. But then agri schools began to teach just about chemicals and money, So present school farmers are so much in deficit of knowledge.
I see that you can drive pretty fast without worrying about drifting off the furrows or running the plants over on accident. Im guessing, is it easier for you to drive through the rows because you have skinny tires?
Yes, we are certified organic in the USA and Canada. Potash is a natural mined rock as well as lime, sulfate, magnesium, boron and the list goes on. Organic farms can use all of these as long as they are in their natural state (not processed) and their soil test shows they are needed. It must be (OMRI) listed. Things we can't use are GMO seed, no pesticide, no herb aside, no synthetic fertilizers (usually nitrogen products like urea). No manure if it's treated with a chemical that is not approved. Our corn fields get about 80 unites of potash, 25 unites of sulfate, 3,000 lb of chicken manure and a plow down of red clover. Boron and lime are added based on soil reports. Generally to grow corn in the usa we spend abot 175.000 per acre just in Fertalizers / Manure. 75.00 in seed per acre. Make a total of 8 passes. 2 row cultivates generally will do the job for weed control. As a rule of thumb if your going to just toss seed in the ground with no fertalizer you will never make any money. Your first year you may get lucky but by year three you will have lost everything.
@@redwagonfarmswhat is the total expense from ploughing before seeding until harvesting?what is the selling price per bushel? What is net profit per acre?
50% of our budget on inputs (nutrients), 20% on leases (land we don't own), 20% on seed, 10% fuel and repairs. New equipment we only buy on years we have excellent growing season and this is considered equity. Profits 300.00 per acre on average year. On a good year we may make over 500.00 per acre profit. On a very bad year we will break even or only make $100.00 per acre profit. Generally, we find organic farming you net about double per acre as you do conventional. You can farm half the land and not have so much large equipment therefore a little less risk of breakdown and needed employees. However, organic farming has its own challenges. When you mess up a field with weed control it may be a total loss for that year or even the following year. You can't always go to the chemistry set to fix the problem you need to use nature against itself. There is a much steeper learning curve and most organic farmers lose a lot of money their first couple of years so don't think the grass is greener on the other side@@destroyedsoul1791
Please, excuse me dear friend for contradicting you, but that´s not exactly an organic strategy to get rid of weeds, since it´s rather a mechanized or cultural method, which indeed is pretty much efective, from an agronomic stand point, because it makes the job. However, to be considered "organic", it should have much less impact on soil´s natural biophysical and biochemical caracteristics. Unfortunately, not many methods and biological products have been found so far to massively eradicate undesirable weeds once both, the crop and weeds have settled together in the field. Threfore, so far, the most we can hope for, is to implement biological, mainly botanical technics and strategies, based on plants physiology, their ontogeny, etc. In simple terms, we have to learn to master how and when weeds germinate, develop, reproduce, root, flourish, form grain or reproductive meristems, etc, etc, etc. In other words, we should know weeds as good as our crop in order to plan agronomical strategies to balance their coexistance, because the only way to efectively erradicate weed is poisoning them, and the environment, so its better to learn to live with, andsorrounded by them. One interesting strategy that have suited us in the tropics, where weeds are incredible faster an agressive than in the nordics, is to provoke what we call "false germination", which consists in plowing the land sufficiently before planting, and create conditions that make germinate and prosper weeds. Once most of them have grown and covert the field, and while they are in their early stages, and before they have time to generate seeds and meristematic reproductive tissue, then we plow again, killing most of them, and reducing their capacity to reproduce. Then we do the same once or twice in a crop cycle, and so for in one or two years, until they reach an aceptable minimum incidence. After that, a sanitary perimeter must be set as to difficulting new weed seeds and meristems enter your fields. that includes desinfecting cars, people, and even animal taht enter the perimeter. Its is complemented with strategically timing their matching or evading, as appropriate, the physiological phases of crop and weeds. But it´s not easy at all, it takes time, patient observance, and the useful counseling of botanists to master, the botanical and agronomical equilibrium that is needed. At the moment, we must be hopefull, and keep experimenting, proving, hitting and missing, with all the ecological biochemical alternatives that are being investigated all over the world: allelopatic substances, natural vegetable extracts, vinager, alcoholes, enzymes, grazing small animals, etc. They all seem promising, and have obtained partial suceed, but so far not suficiently efective for "erradicating" weeds from a stablished crop like a poisonous agrotoxic . Thank you for your kind attention and patience.
We cannot get any corn if we don't row cultivate. Generally speaking, we need to row cultivate about 14 days after planting and then again about 1 month after planting. On really weedy fields we will run 3 times and make sure we change the pass direction
If you have a 3 or 4 year rotation in crops 99% of the time an insecticide is never needed in our case. One year we had a corn field destroyed by army worms but that was an exception to the rule. There are natural OMRI certified organic products that you can use but they are limited. Some work well but most not as well as a chemical spray.
How much money do you save not buying weed killer? How about planting something else that will not give weeds a chance to grow. Why is some grass in between tall corn a bad thing? How about some mulch?
organic mulch would work better. easy to manage. all need is mulch. mulch helps to maitain temperature. even hot weather won't affect and other advantage of mulch it saves alot of water from evaporating.
flame weed it off. corn below v3-v4 will grow back. have to check my records to see what stage i did last year, but will clean up your corn like you had sprayed it
Impressed with dedication work. Wow. We bought few years back 4 acres with house. Just got 2 acres frred of 8 feet tall parsnip & whatever else. Thanks to an experienced (85) neighbor farmer coaching me & lending a hand for small fee with big equipment or i would of seen end of this weed ordeal tell'ya. You teached me something here & i thank you. Cheers :)
Very good information sir... Nice one
I am a soil guy. Cultivating loosens the soil texture and actually reduce drying. It creates a soft soil buffer between the underneath moisture and the dry air. It does cut the plant roots however.
In organic farming they have very little options unfortunately.
Can I use venigar salt and dishwashing as my herbicide in my garden? Is there's no bad effect in veggies even after a week before planting?
@@shirleygawi large amounts of salt will damage the soil in some cases beyond repair.
You have mentioned in the video some people told you that by this cultivation the soil become dry.
Some people should really stop speaking, because it is at elementary agriculture school that by loosen the soil it increase capability to absorb more water from the rain and by loosening the soil it disconnect upper layer of soil from deeper one and that stop evaporation of water from deeper level out of the field. !!
So the cultivation and lossening the soil is one of the MAIN agricultural technics to get more water inside the field, not the opposite. Tightening the soil makes it dry, loosening makes it wet. And of course cowdung absorbes huge amount of water, just put more cowdung into the field and NO DRY season will affect you. !
Now we have those unqualified, unexperienced, just theorethical people sitting in the agri offices and passing nonsenses around.
I appreacite your video, if one look at back like 20-30 years one can see these technics were commonly used on large scale farms. But then agri schools began to teach just about chemicals and money, So present school farmers are so much in deficit of knowledge.
Great insight
Do you use any irrigation for the corn and where are you located ? Good job btw !!
No irrigation.
@@redwagonfarmsdepends only on rain?
Last year i did a test in my garden and let the weeds go ham, and honestly my yield was no different than all the hours of weeding ive done prior
❤👍👍 You have your “Fertilizer in”, what kind fertilizer?
Alas!!!A realistic situation!!!
How to do this on a large property?
I see that you can drive pretty fast without worrying about drifting off the furrows or running the plants over on accident. Im guessing, is it easier for you to drive through the rows because you have skinny tires?
Helló in Hungary! Jess cultivator type!??
Jess link cultivator mashine??
I’m at a loss. I’m trying to do too much on a acre alone and I don’t know what I’m gonna do to week my corn and sorghum plots
Awesome info!! 👌
Looks good I sure miss it
How tall is the max before you knock the corn down
It depends on the tractor but with this set up I do 2ft all the time and sometimes 30inches.
what is the product
Where is your cover crop?
Cool
Are you doing Organic Farming? I saw use of Chemicals Potash in between the Rows, how you are managing nutrients during the Crop period.
Yes, we are certified organic in the USA and Canada. Potash is a natural mined rock as well as lime, sulfate, magnesium, boron and the list goes on. Organic farms can use all of these as long as they are in their natural state (not processed) and their soil test shows they are needed. It must be (OMRI) listed.
Things we can't use are GMO seed, no pesticide, no herb aside, no synthetic fertilizers (usually nitrogen products like urea). No manure if it's treated with a chemical that is not approved. Our corn fields get about 80 unites of potash, 25 unites of sulfate, 3,000 lb of chicken manure and a plow down of red clover. Boron and lime are added based on soil reports. Generally to grow corn in the usa we spend abot 175.000 per acre just in Fertalizers / Manure. 75.00 in seed per acre. Make a total of 8 passes. 2 row cultivates generally will do the job for weed control. As a rule of thumb if your going to just toss seed in the ground with no fertalizer you will never make any money. Your first year you may get lucky but by year three you will have lost everything.
@@redwagonfarmswhat is the total expense from ploughing before seeding until harvesting?what is the selling price per bushel? What is net profit per acre?
50% of our budget on inputs (nutrients), 20% on leases (land we don't own), 20% on seed, 10% fuel and repairs. New equipment we only buy on years we have excellent growing season and this is considered equity. Profits 300.00 per acre on average year. On a good year we may make over 500.00 per acre profit. On a very bad year we will break even or only make $100.00 per acre profit. Generally, we find organic farming you net about double per acre as you do conventional. You can farm half the land and not have so much large equipment therefore a little less risk of breakdown and needed employees. However, organic farming has its own challenges. When you mess up a field with weed control it may be a total loss for that year or even the following year. You can't always go to the chemistry set to fix the problem you need to use nature against itself. There is a much steeper learning curve and most organic farmers lose a lot of money their first couple of years so don't think the grass is greener on the other side@@destroyedsoul1791
Do you end up with a lot of erosion doing this
Yes eventually it will erode the soil since your cultivating probably 4 times in a growing season, that is a lot of pressure on the soil
Upload more vids on this
any suggestions for Johnson grass? I have 20 acres of it.
If you've got a moldboard plow, plow the hell out of it and bury most of the seed. Otherwise, spray it.
@@masoncarlisle363 Thanks.
What did you get for yield on that field?
100 - 110 bushel per acre. We had a dry spell that was quite significant that probably cost us 10 bu per acre
Nice tractor!
Do u ppl plant corn in these spaces
You also have very sandy soil which makes all the difference in the world, that wouldn't work here in Louisiana clay.
Please, excuse me dear friend for contradicting you, but that´s not exactly an organic strategy to get rid of weeds, since it´s rather a mechanized or cultural method, which indeed is pretty much efective, from an agronomic stand point, because it makes the job. However, to be considered "organic", it should have much less impact on soil´s natural biophysical and biochemical caracteristics.
Unfortunately, not many methods and biological products have been found so far to massively eradicate undesirable weeds once both, the crop and weeds have settled together in the field. Threfore, so far, the most we can hope for, is to implement biological, mainly botanical technics and strategies, based on plants physiology, their ontogeny, etc. In simple terms, we have to learn to master how and when weeds germinate, develop, reproduce, root, flourish, form grain or reproductive meristems, etc, etc, etc. In other words, we should know weeds as good as our crop in order to plan agronomical strategies to balance their coexistance, because the only way to efectively erradicate weed is poisoning them, and the environment, so its better to learn to live with, andsorrounded by them.
One interesting strategy that have suited us in the tropics, where weeds are incredible faster an agressive than in the nordics, is to provoke what we call "false germination", which consists in plowing the land sufficiently before planting, and create conditions that make germinate and prosper weeds. Once most of them have grown and covert the field, and while they are in their early stages, and before they have time to generate seeds and meristematic reproductive tissue, then we plow again, killing most of them, and reducing their capacity to reproduce. Then we do the same once or twice in a crop cycle, and so for in one or two years, until they reach an aceptable minimum incidence. After that, a sanitary perimeter must be set as to difficulting new weed seeds and meristems enter your fields. that includes desinfecting cars, people, and even animal taht enter the perimeter. Its is complemented with strategically timing their matching or evading, as appropriate, the physiological phases of crop and weeds. But it´s not easy at all, it takes time, patient observance, and the useful counseling of botanists to master, the botanical and agronomical equilibrium that is needed.
At the moment, we must be hopefull, and keep experimenting, proving, hitting and missing, with all the ecological biochemical alternatives that are being investigated all over the world: allelopatic substances, natural vegetable extracts, vinager, alcoholes, enzymes, grazing small animals, etc. They all seem promising, and have obtained partial suceed, but so far not suficiently efective for "erradicating" weeds from a stablished crop like a poisonous agrotoxic .
Thank you for your kind attention and patience.
Where to buy that organic weed control
What is the yield increase vs not using it?
We cannot get any corn if we don't row cultivate. Generally speaking, we need to row cultivate about 14 days after planting and then again about 1 month after planting. On really weedy fields we will run 3 times and make sure we change the pass direction
What is the mitionry name from weed remover
That's why I love western culture farming less work work
What do you use for insects being organic?
If you have a 3 or 4 year rotation in crops 99% of the time an insecticide is never needed in our case. One year we had a corn field destroyed by army worms but that was an exception to the rule. There are natural OMRI certified organic products that you can use but they are limited. Some work well but most not as well as a chemical spray.
It is indian agriculture technical
I want to machine design...can you help me...
Goods
Agri
How much money do you save not buying weed killer?
How about planting something else that will not give weeds a chance to grow.
Why is some grass in between tall corn a bad thing?
How about some mulch?
organic mulch would work better. easy to manage. all need is mulch. mulch helps to maitain temperature. even hot weather won't affect and other advantage of mulch it saves alot of water from evaporating.
flame weed it off. corn below v3-v4 will grow back. have to check my records to see what stage i did last year, but will clean up your corn like you had sprayed it
Flame weed as in use a propane torch implement? What is v3-v4?
Isn't it easier to use rye or black oat as a cover crop? Greetings from Serbia. 🤠🇷🇸🖐️
Or banao
It's mechanized method not organic
Nice tractor!