@@murdocks4304 Thanks! always wondered why they never sparked when i didn't discharge them. i got a good shock out of a vintage photography flash once and i've been cautious ever since. AC usually no. DC usually yes
Heres a handy tip: Before opening the motor use a marker to make two small lines across the seam where the end plates connect. That will save you lots of time when trying to line up the screw holes when re-assembling. Many older motors ive taken apart have already had this done by the previous owner.
Use a spring loaded center punch. One dimple on one casing end & the matching end of the armature. Two dimples on the opposing side on the casing & armature. Should keep things aligned.
Hi,wrap the rotor part in a isulated material and then cover with cling film leaving the shaft exsposed,then place in a freezer,this will shrink the shaft slightly to make bearing slip over easier,but then hot air dryer to dry any moister that might be their, As with the bearings,if they are the ones showing already on the shaft,place on hot plate for 40 seconds then remove and place over ice cold shaft, Do not leave bearing on hot plate to long, Do not place bearing on hot plate if they have the black plastic type seals,hope this helps
Good video, thanks for posting it and all the tips. You can mark the casing with a felt tip before disassembly so it will align properly on re-assembly with no fiddling about. I'm also looking for a video showing somebody skimming the commutator up on a lathe and changing brushes. I've got a book which I'll work from, but it's always useful to watch somebody with experience doing it. Best wishes.
+Rich William Yeah, the felt marker is a good tip, especially with brushed motors so it all lines up in the end. I don't have a lathe, but I have resurfaced commutators by putting the rotor in a drill chuck and polishing it with some 1200 grit emery paper. Just make sure you clean all the dust away thoroughly and scrape out the junk from between the commutator contacts.
I liked your bearing puller and so much so that because I needed one, I've just made one out of railway spikes machined down and very similar to your own... Good video too and picked up a few good tips from it.
Brevity is the soul of wit ~ Shakespeare -- Not only have I actually learned a couple of things I didn't know before, I learned how one might explain things efficiently and succinctly. (Brevity is the soul of a great lesson?!) Great job, enjoyed the vid.
An excellent video. I was searching for quite a long time for info about smoke smell and only found garbage. Too bad RUclips doesn't have a way to flag super videos.
one I have is not humming or making any noise or movement at all and both capacitors work and wiring isn't desolderd and windings looks not burned at all,I also checked the reset button and is good,I thought it might ve had a fuse somewhere but it did not,my lead cables are good also
Before you disassemble the motor ALWAYS center punch or scribe a witness marks on each end cover to match with the same marks you make on the motor housing. I use 1 punch mark for the shaft or pulley side and two adjacent punch marks on the other end. Makes life so much easier when those stay bolts go directly through the opposite side holes without a bunch of twisting and turning of those end covers.
Enjoyed the video, what was wrong with this motor in particular - I was watching at work and did enjoy the testing and bearing replacement especially. Thanks.
the motor you have is a PSC Permanent Split Capacitor type meaning a run capacitor is used. A Capacitor start motor has a capacitor in the start windings as that and that and the start windings are taken out of the circuit by a centrifigual switch when the motor reaches 75% of operating speed a capacitor start capacitor run motor has a start cap and a run cap. and has the same centrifigual switch as the capacitor start to take the start windings and start cap out of the circuit. the split phase works in the same way but has no capacitors as the motor is used for pedistal fans, and belted loads such as belt drive fans, blowers and compressors, some can be used in pumps. the smaller motors that has no capacitors is basically a shaded pole type motor. which has low starting torque but are very inefficient. the largest motors are polyphase or 3 phase that only operates on balanced 3 phase power only. some can be star or delta wound. there is no run capacitors on a 3 phase motor. the motor you have is single phase. as nowadays the Shaded pole and PSC motors are rapidly being replaced with ECM or DC Brushless motors for HVAC fans and refrigeration use. if a motor goes out if costs are reasonable with the machine or appliance it came out of the motor if its a shaded pole it can be replaced with a PSC or an ECM motor with the same or close HP ratings rotation and RPM in USA the frequency with electrical power is 60 HZ the rest of the world is 50 HZ as some motors are labled to run on either 50 or 60 HZ. as the RPM and Amp draw of the motor can be different depending on the frequency the motor is operated on.
the run capacitor you can replace it with one with a higher voltage for example if u have a 5 MFD or UF 250 VAC you can replace it with a metal oval or round run capacitor a 5MFD 370 VAC or 440VAC as the capacitance has to be the same as you can go up in voltage but not down if u put in a bigger cap it will increase the torque of the motor plus amp draw and noise as will it can overheat. smaller cap it will weaken the torque of the motor and overheat as well too if the motor is thermally protected cheap motors have thermal fuses in them if it blows the motor is toast the ones that reset it can be manual or automatic depending on the motor. the motoy you got has sealed ball bearings they can't be oiled but replaced. sleeve bearings some have to be oiled some are permantly lubricated. cooling for the motors yours is fan cooled as it has an internal fan if its in a machine it will have sufficent cooling other motors that indicate Air Over on the nameplate is the motor has to be mounted in the airstream such as a fan or other air moving appliance.
Interesting video. I have the same motor on my bench top drill press. I took it apart to guess the bearings and noticed it was rubbing in one spot when I spun the shaft. I've been trying to reassemble it and can't get it to stop rubbing. Seems to be somewhere in the armature? It's driving me a little batty. I'd buy a new motor if I could find one.
@@NearFarMedia The motor was working fine. I took it apart to clean the insides as it was looking pretty grotty. When I reassembled it it binds in a certain spot when I spin the shaft. It appears to be affected by how much I tighten each of the four retaining rods. I took it apart again and wire brushed the armature and the windings. I also cleaned the bearing recesses with emery paper. This seemed to help but it still occasionally binds up when I start it. I thought it might be a bad cap but it doesn't seem like it. If I tighten individual rods I can affect the way it spins. Weird!
@@mikekemsley1531 maybe you've already solved it but one idea.. the end casings might not be "radially symmetrical", ie the bearing housings are not in the exact middle of the plates, so the axle is off-centre and/or angled relative to the stator's centreline. You might find that rotating the end plates (keying or cogging, I think it's called?) lets you find a configuration that doesn't rub. You might need to rotate the two plates relative to each other to find the combination that runs parallel to the stator, and then you might need to rotate them both together to find the orientation that centres the axle (co-axially) in the stator. One idea could be to rotate the two plates relative to each other to find the *most* binding spot (which would tell you it's binding all along one side, so parallel but off-centre) and then rotate them together to find the best centre alignment. Might be worth doing a close visual inspection to make sure the wire brush hasn't taken any insulation off the windings, too.
There was a Western comedy where a town minded molybdenum. They couldn't pronounce it, so they called it, "Molly be damned." Around the ladies, the men would call it, Molly be derned."
So I've acquired 20+ AC motors and I really want some insight to decide if they're worth or even useful for anything at at all. They came from very old nursing home beds from the 70s or 80s and the tags say they're 1725 RPM and 1/12 horsepower.
Hi, i am hoping you might be able to assist me. I have a brushless electric motor that hums but does not turn(belongs to a phase 1 bench grinder). When i tried to turn it by hand in the "on" position, it does not move. While in the "off" position, it turns just fine. I checked the capacitor and it works fine. The bearings are good too. Any ideas on what might be wrong with it?
I have a whole house fan motor that runs, but no longer fast enough to create enough speed to lift the baffles on the fan housing. If the fan starts, then it probably isn't the capacitor? Any suggestions or ideas? With the supply chain issues, can't even get a new one for my 36" fan.
great video I have a motor very similar but a bit larger. I have had it apart and it looks clean and shiny, bearings roll ok with no grinding or scraping. It starts fine and runs for about 2 minutes, becomes hot to the touch and stops. The main difference I see is no fan inside and no vent holes in the case. What am I missing here ?
Have a look at *Derek Obidowski's comment* here (3 years ago), he talks about how the capacitor can affect the heat of the windings if the incorrect rating is used. Worth reading in my opinion.
Thanks for posting this. I want to rebuild a 5hp motor I have for my air compressor. My question is I would be concerned about the RS bearings getting too hot and damaging the rubber. Should that not be any issue?
RS bearings shouldn't heat up at normal operating conditions. If the bearings are overheating, it's due to too much load or not enough lubrication, in which any bearing will fail.
do you by a chance have a video on replacing the winding. I have an old smaller compressor that has the motor built into the crank case of the pump motor and its next to impossible to find an replacement or do you know were i might find one?
Often with a bunch of heat to expand the outer casing, but it will depend on the actual motor in question. Generally the stator doesn't need to be removed unless you are rewinding it.
im just learning about all this-- woodworker just out of high school-- ive been looking at alot of auctions for used machines to equip my shop, but without access to 3 phase power the selection is extremely limited, at this point ive sort of decided to replace the 3 phase motors with new/used single phase ones off ebay. ive heard you pay for what you get with motors(what do you think of that) like do i need to spend half a grand to get a 5 hp motor or are the 100-200$ used ones going to be just fine? also, when your talking about the bearings and the rubber closed bearings with the friction fit, if theres a friction fit, wont it not last long at all because of the friction? like wont it be worn down to the same or even worse as its rubber as the metal bearing guard thingie (sorry as i said im just learning baout this stuff and my vocabulary is, well, limited.) anyways thanks for actually reading all of this, sorry, Thanks! Liam
I was a finish carpenter also. When starting out I did not have alot of large machinery. Most of everything was portable there for 110 single phase. Even my delta table saw, jointer ect. I switched to machining but woodworking would be the same. When I started to hit the auctions alot of machinery that I was interested in was 3 phase, I started to notice that people were passing up nice machines because they were 3 phase. So I bought and installed a rotary phase converter. That for my personal situation was the best choice.by the time you change 2 or 3 motors you could have 3 phase. Were the money was saved was buying the 3 phase machines at great prices because all the home shop guys didn't want them. On the bearings the rubber ones are sealed there is no problem with where as the hardened and ground races are extremely smooth. The metal shielded are not sealed they cost less, are used when heat would be a problem for the rubber or in a dust free situation. If you are going to be doing this type of thing hobby or business you should pick up a copy of Audel's book "millwrights and mechanics guide". Evan an older copy. It has drafting, machinery installation, v--belts, bearings, carpentry, electricity, air compressors, math and a hole lot more. It has been a go to book for almost 25 years. I hope that I was a help, If any questions put it in the comments. I didn't think I was going to write a book tonight. Good luck from Andy
Mine already has your expansion wave type washes on both bearing so that's a both. I have a motor that's cutting out after about 20 mins as it's overheating. The coils haven't been burnt yet, but the fabric stitching has burnt over a 2 inch section. Will a bearing swap help with over heating? The capacitor is corroding a bit, so I will replace that. It's a slightly larger motor from an A/C than yours with externally mounted capacitor.
The burnt fabric could be indicating that a winding is getting too hot. Test the capacitance of your capacitor to check it's within it's ratings and replace if needed. If you are particularly unlucky, you might have some shorted windings...
How did you increase the end play (which of course was taken up by the wave washers)? Did you have to have a machinist do that? Is there a way to do it at home? How important is it?
Very nice video, sir. Is there a good / accurate resource for look up which replacement bearings I need for a given motor? In my case, it's a Genteq 5KCP39JF, CPN: 51-100998-24. Nice work!
Great video. I just had my stand up drill press motor throw some flames and really had that burnt electrical smell. I only had a 5/8" drum sander tool in the chuck. It was to hot to touch for like a half hour as I was taking it off the press. I'm assuming my windings are burnt based on what you've said. Getting ready to dig into it now. It's a 3/4 hs motor on a cheap $400 drill press I bought at one of those tool tent sales 20 years ago. Although you could say I've gotten my monies worth. If it toast now I have to try and find a new motor that will mount up. Do you have any suggestions for a good website to find something?
Ooof, I think the flames means it's going to be a terminal case on that motor... :D I can't recommend any particular place to purchase a new motor though unfortunately, unless you live in Japan... ;)
At 7:12 just a couple of quick taps with the wooden butt of a hammer. The motor I am working on isn’t that easy. I am stuck at this stage because the two ends of the housing appear to be crimped to the middle of the motor. Suggestions?
I have a motor that just hums when I power it on, I removed the motor and tried to spin it with my hand and it’s completely seized, what does that mean??? And no burning smell and the bearings are good
5 years ago : these things are cheap are chips, not worth rewinding, just throw it out and buy a new one. Today: There’s a two year waiting list for these motors, hopefully we will be able to source some copper to rewind it.
Thanks that is good info, I have a motor that when plugged in, it hums. It works fine but I'm wondering if it is sign of something about to break. Would you know?
Great video but we didn't see you measure the lateral gap (the gap that is to accommodate the expansion of the motor shaft) if before there was 0.000 gap then you should have machined at least 1mm (0.500mm for the washer and 0.500mm for expansion or more) if you just added a washer then the problem will have been worse.
There was a good amount of movement after I linished out the end caps to allow for movement of the bearings, so no worries. Good point to check it though.
Outstanding vid! Had to watch it twice because I only speak American but that's not your fault. How did you know when you had gotten the new bearings at just the right position on the shaft to fit properly in the endplate recesses? And I just say Molly-be-damned.
The bearings seat right down to steps on the shaft, so you press them on until they stop up against the step and they are perfectly aligned. You'll have to practice your Queens English a bit too... :D haha
I'm Canadian and speak a very standard sounding English just like a standard American English. I had zero issues with this guys accent. It's pretty mild compared to some.
I'm not actually sure.... It's just one I happened to have in the toolbox, I can't remember where it came from. For motors, you usually want smaller jaws that are long to reach all the way down the output shaft to the bearing.
Nice video. I do think you should warn folks that the capacitor should be discharged prior to testing.
I was shocked to see that there was no warning about that.
@@Marc9889 I was shocked to see him massaging the leads to the cap without saying boo
Should always check for sure but they r not designed for holding a charge. Unlike Dc
@@murdocks4304 Thanks! always wondered why they never sparked when i didn't discharge them. i got a good shock out of a vintage photography flash once and i've been cautious ever since. AC usually no. DC usually yes
Heres a handy tip: Before opening the motor use a marker to make two small lines across the seam where the end plates connect. That will save you lots of time when trying to line up the screw holes when re-assembling. Many older motors ive taken apart have already had this done by the previous owner.
Yes! This is a good idea. Something I do as well, but it slipped my mind.
Thanks for the tip!
Use a spring loaded center punch. One dimple on one casing end & the matching end of the armature. Two dimples on the opposing side on the casing & armature. Should keep things aligned.
I learned so much. I am a mechanical novice, and I really appreciate your thorough tutorial. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! I was afraid my uncle's old band saw was ruined and needed to be replaced. Greased and cleaned and it works great!
Fascinating video! Thanks for posting. I learned a lot.
You are everywhere :)
Hi,wrap the rotor part in a isulated material and then cover with cling film leaving the shaft exsposed,then place in a freezer,this will shrink the shaft slightly to make bearing slip over easier,but then hot air dryer to dry any moister that might be their,
As with the bearings,if they are the ones showing already on the shaft,place on hot plate for 40 seconds then remove and place over ice cold shaft,
Do not leave bearing on hot plate to long,
Do not place bearing on hot plate if they have the black plastic type seals,hope this helps
Good video, thanks for posting it and all the tips.
You can mark the casing with a felt tip before disassembly so it will align properly on re-assembly with no fiddling about. I'm also looking for a video showing somebody skimming the commutator up on a lathe and changing brushes. I've got a book which I'll work from, but it's always useful to watch somebody with experience doing it. Best wishes.
+Rich William Yeah, the felt marker is a good tip, especially with brushed motors so it all lines up in the end.
I don't have a lathe, but I have resurfaced commutators by putting the rotor in a drill chuck and polishing it with some 1200 grit emery paper.
Just make sure you clean all the dust away thoroughly and scrape out the junk from between the commutator contacts.
I liked your bearing puller and so much so that because I needed one, I've just made one out of railway spikes machined down and very similar to your own... Good video too and picked up a few good tips from it.
You can also put it in the freezer - 18 and i think the bearings should fit? Cool video
Brevity is the soul of wit ~ Shakespeare -- Not only have I actually learned a couple of things I didn't know before, I learned how one might explain things efficiently and succinctly. (Brevity is the soul of a great lesson?!) Great job, enjoyed the vid.
An excellent video. I was searching for quite a long time for info about smoke smell and only found garbage. Too bad RUclips doesn't have a way to flag super videos.
Great video. Covered the basics and addressed why the upgrades are actually better. Loved it!
Very articulate .... Well explained learned so much in short video thanks
one I have is not humming or making any noise or movement at all and both capacitors work and wiring isn't desolderd and windings looks not burned at all,I also checked the reset button and is good,I thought it might ve had a fuse somewhere but it did not,my lead cables are good also
Before you disassemble the motor ALWAYS center punch or scribe a witness marks on each end cover to match with the same marks you make on the motor housing. I use 1 punch mark for the shaft or pulley side and two adjacent punch marks on the other end. Makes life so much easier when those stay bolts go directly through the opposite side holes without a bunch of twisting and turning of those end covers.
Enjoyed the video, what was wrong with this motor in particular - I was watching at work and did enjoy the testing and bearing replacement especially. Thanks.
the motor you have is a PSC Permanent Split Capacitor type meaning a run capacitor is used. A Capacitor start motor has a capacitor in the start windings as that and that and the start windings are taken out of the circuit by a centrifigual switch when the motor reaches 75% of operating speed a capacitor start capacitor run motor has a start cap and a run cap. and has the same centrifigual switch as the capacitor start to take the start windings and start cap out of the circuit. the split phase works in the same way but has no capacitors as the motor is used for pedistal fans, and belted loads such as belt drive fans, blowers and compressors, some can be used in pumps. the smaller motors that has no capacitors is basically a shaded pole type motor. which has low starting torque but are very inefficient. the largest motors are polyphase or 3 phase that only operates on balanced 3 phase power only. some can be star or delta wound. there is no run capacitors on a 3 phase motor. the motor you have is single phase. as nowadays the Shaded pole and PSC motors are rapidly being replaced with ECM or DC Brushless motors for HVAC fans and refrigeration use. if a motor goes out if costs are reasonable with the machine or appliance it came out of the motor if its a shaded pole it can be replaced with a PSC or an ECM motor with the same or close HP ratings rotation and RPM in USA the frequency with electrical power is 60 HZ the rest of the world is 50 HZ as some motors are labled to run on either 50 or 60 HZ. as the RPM and Amp draw of the motor can be different depending on the frequency the motor is operated on.
I don't know why I'm watching this at 2am
the run capacitor you can replace it with one with a higher voltage for example if u have a 5 MFD or UF 250 VAC you can replace it with a metal oval or round run capacitor a 5MFD 370 VAC or 440VAC as the capacitance has to be the same as you can go up in voltage but not down if u put in a bigger cap it will increase the torque of the motor plus amp draw and noise as will it can overheat. smaller cap it will weaken the torque of the motor and overheat as well too if the motor is thermally protected cheap motors have thermal fuses in them if it blows the motor is toast the ones that reset it can be manual or automatic depending on the motor. the motoy you got has sealed ball bearings they can't be oiled but replaced. sleeve bearings some have to be oiled some are permantly lubricated. cooling for the motors yours is fan cooled as it has an internal fan if its in a machine it will have sufficent cooling other motors that indicate Air Over on the nameplate is the motor has to be mounted in the airstream such as a fan or other air moving appliance.
Thans for the lesson
Interesting video. I have the same motor on my bench top drill press. I took it apart to guess the bearings and noticed it was rubbing in one spot when I spun the shaft. I've been trying to reassemble it and can't get it to stop rubbing. Seems to be somewhere in the armature? It's driving me a little batty. I'd buy a new motor if I could find one.
Is the shaft bent? Or maybe one of the end plates have the bearing recesses machines off-center?
@@NearFarMedia The motor was working fine. I took it apart to clean the insides as it was looking pretty grotty. When I reassembled it it binds in a certain spot when I spin the shaft. It appears to be affected by how much I tighten each of the four retaining rods. I took it apart again and wire brushed the armature and the windings. I also cleaned the bearing recesses with emery paper. This seemed to help but it still occasionally binds up when I start it. I thought it might be a bad cap but it doesn't seem like it. If I tighten individual rods I can affect the way it spins. Weird!
@@mikekemsley1531 maybe you've already solved it but one idea.. the end casings might not be "radially symmetrical", ie the bearing housings are not in the exact middle of the plates, so the axle is off-centre and/or angled relative to the stator's centreline. You might find that rotating the end plates (keying or cogging, I think it's called?) lets you find a configuration that doesn't rub. You might need to rotate the two plates relative to each other to find the combination that runs parallel to the stator, and then you might need to rotate them both together to find the orientation that centres the axle (co-axially) in the stator. One idea could be to rotate the two plates relative to each other to find the *most* binding spot (which would tell you it's binding all along one side, so parallel but off-centre) and then rotate them together to find the best centre alignment.
Might be worth doing a close visual inspection to make sure the wire brush hasn't taken any insulation off the windings, too.
There was a Western comedy where a town minded molybdenum. They couldn't pronounce it, so they called it, "Molly be damned." Around the ladies, the men would call it, Molly be derned."
So much good information here thanks
Lert a lot for this video appreciated
Ian
Excellent video!
You doing great learning.
What if you have a vintage motor where the windings are dark but the motor works fine and there is no burning smell
You rock ''''''' That was un awesome explanation 👍
Very good explanation
So I've acquired 20+ AC motors and I really want some insight to decide if they're worth or even useful for anything at at all. They came from very old nursing home beds from the 70s or 80s and the tags say they're 1725 RPM and 1/12 horsepower.
Hi, i am hoping you might be able to assist me. I have a brushless electric motor that hums but does not turn(belongs to a phase 1 bench grinder). When i tried to turn it by hand in the "on" position, it does not move. While in the "off" position, it turns just fine. I checked the capacitor and it works fine. The bearings are good too. Any ideas on what might be wrong with it?
I have a whole house fan motor that runs, but no longer fast enough to create enough speed to lift the baffles on the fan housing. If the fan starts, then it probably isn't the capacitor? Any suggestions or ideas? With the supply chain issues, can't even get a new one for my 36" fan.
If it only has a run capacitor and it starts then the capacitor is probably fine.
If it also has a run capacitor, your problem could be there.
@@NearFarMedia hi, that statement seems to be contradictory? :-) It has only1 capacitor.
how do we know which wire is neutral , if color coding and label are not there , can we use multimeter to identify any wire by checking ohms ?? thanks
great video I have a motor very similar but a bit larger. I have had it apart and it looks clean and shiny, bearings roll ok with no grinding or scraping. It starts fine and runs for about 2 minutes, becomes hot to the touch and stops. The main difference I see is no fan inside and no vent holes in the case. What am I missing here ?
Have a look at *Derek Obidowski's comment* here (3 years ago), he talks about how the capacitor can affect the heat of the windings if the incorrect rating is used. Worth reading in my opinion.
Thanks for posting this. I want to rebuild a 5hp motor I have for my air compressor. My question is I would be concerned about the RS bearings getting too hot and damaging the rubber. Should that not be any issue?
RS bearings shouldn't heat up at normal operating conditions. If the bearings are overheating, it's due to too much load or not enough lubrication, in which any bearing will fail.
Great video. Thank you..
very knowledgeable thank you
A coworker called it "molly be damn" instead-lol
Very good video mate. Thanks.
do you by a chance have a video on replacing the winding. I have an old smaller compressor that has the motor built into the crank case of the pump motor and its next to impossible to find an replacement or do you know were i might find one?
you can heat you the bearing and it can slide on no more than about 150 degress
I'm interested to know more from you
Hi, how do you remove the stator from the case? Is it just press fit? Thanks
Often with a bunch of heat to expand the outer casing, but it will depend on the actual motor in question.
Generally the stator doesn't need to be removed unless you are rewinding it.
im just learning about all this-- woodworker just out of high school-- ive been looking at alot of auctions for used machines to equip my shop, but without access to 3 phase power the selection is extremely limited, at this point ive sort of decided to replace the 3 phase motors with new/used single phase ones off ebay. ive heard you pay for what you get with motors(what do you think of that) like do i need to spend half a grand to get a 5 hp motor or are the 100-200$ used ones going to be just fine? also, when your talking about the bearings and the rubber closed bearings with the friction fit, if theres a friction fit, wont it not last long at all because of the friction? like wont it be worn down to the same or even worse as its rubber as the metal bearing guard thingie (sorry as i said im just learning baout this stuff and my vocabulary is, well, limited.) anyways thanks for actually reading all of this, sorry, Thanks!
Liam
I was a finish carpenter also. When starting out I did not have alot of large machinery. Most of everything was portable there for 110 single phase. Even my delta table saw, jointer ect. I switched to machining but woodworking would be the same. When I started to hit the auctions alot of machinery that I was interested in was 3 phase, I started to notice that people were passing up nice machines because they were 3 phase. So I bought and installed a rotary phase converter. That for my personal situation was the best choice.by the time you change 2 or 3 motors you could have 3 phase. Were the money was saved was buying the 3 phase machines at great prices because all the home shop guys didn't want them. On the bearings the rubber ones are sealed there is no problem with where as the hardened and ground races are extremely smooth. The metal shielded are not sealed they cost less, are used when heat would be a problem for the rubber or in a dust free situation. If you are going to be doing this type of thing hobby or business you should pick up a copy of Audel's book "millwrights and mechanics guide". Evan an older copy. It has drafting, machinery installation, v--belts, bearings, carpentry, electricity, air compressors, math and a hole lot more. It has been a go to book for almost 25 years. I hope that I was a help, If any questions put it in the comments. I didn't think I was going to write a book tonight. Good luck from Andy
Great video and explanation my friend. Keep up the great work!
Mine already has your expansion wave type washes on both bearing so that's a both. I have a motor that's cutting out after about 20 mins as it's overheating. The coils haven't been burnt yet, but the fabric stitching has burnt over a 2 inch section. Will a bearing swap help with over heating? The capacitor is corroding a bit, so I will replace that. It's a slightly larger motor from an A/C than yours with externally mounted capacitor.
The burnt fabric could be indicating that a winding is getting too hot.
Test the capacitance of your capacitor to check it's within it's ratings and replace if needed.
If you are particularly unlucky, you might have some shorted windings...
I enjoyed your video.
How did you increase the end play (which of course was taken up by the wave washers)? Did you have to have a machinist do that? Is there a way to do it at home? How important is it?
The end play was already there, I didn't have to increase it at all.
Very nice video, sir. Is there a good / accurate resource for look up which replacement bearings I need for a given motor? In my case, it's a Genteq 5KCP39JF, CPN: 51-100998-24. Nice work!
Best thing to do is pull out the old bearings and match them up to new ones by the part number or physical size.
@@NearFarMedia That makes sense, thanks. In my case, the motor wasn't rebuildable anyway, but now I have a great anchor for my fishing boat. : ]
Show how to chang the wire
I have a motor with missing the two oil ports near the ends of the motors. Are replacements readily available?
At industrial supply's
Great video. I just had my stand up drill press motor throw some flames and really had that burnt electrical smell. I only had a 5/8" drum sander tool in the chuck. It was to hot to touch for like a half hour as I was taking it off the press. I'm assuming my windings are burnt based on what you've said. Getting ready to dig into it now. It's a 3/4 hs motor on a cheap $400 drill press I bought at one of those tool tent sales 20 years ago. Although you could say I've gotten my monies worth. If it toast now I have to try and find a new motor that will mount up. Do you have any suggestions for a good website to find something?
Ooof, I think the flames means it's going to be a terminal case on that motor... :D
I can't recommend any particular place to purchase a new motor though unfortunately, unless you live in Japan... ;)
@@NearFarMedia Yup, I opened it up and burnt windings everywhere.
At 7:12 just a couple of quick taps with the wooden butt of a hammer. The motor I am working on isn’t that easy. I am stuck at this stage because the two ends of the housing appear to be crimped to the middle of the motor. Suggestions?
I have a motor that just hums when I power it on, I removed the motor and tried to spin it with my hand and it’s completely seized, what does that mean??? And no burning smell and the bearings are good
seized as in you try to move it and it doesnt move at all?
Mitchell Bristow yes once the motor is put together and the rotor is where it should be it doesn’t even budge
5 years ago : these things are cheap are chips, not worth rewinding, just throw it out and buy a new one.
Today: There’s a two year waiting list for these motors, hopefully we will be able to source some copper to rewind it.
Thanks that is good info, I have a motor that when plugged in, it hums. It works fine but I'm wondering if it is sign of something about to break. Would you know?
Check the capacitor! Number one reason a motor will sit and hum.
THANK YOU!
Thanks for sharing
Great video but we didn't see you measure the lateral gap (the gap that is to accommodate the expansion of the motor shaft) if before there was 0.000 gap then you should have machined at least 1mm (0.500mm for the washer and 0.500mm for expansion or more) if you just added a washer then the problem will have been worse.
There was a good amount of movement after I linished out the end caps to allow for movement of the bearings, so no worries.
Good point to check it though.
Excellent info thank you!
Very informative! Thanks for the information! :)
Donde puedo comprar ese motor?
Very helpful Thank you.
"Things get bigger when they get warm" 😂
Outstanding vid! Had to watch it twice because I only speak American but that's not your fault.
How did you know when you had gotten the new bearings at just the right position on the shaft to fit properly in the endplate recesses?
And I just say Molly-be-damned.
The bearings seat right down to steps on the shaft, so you press them on until they stop up against the step and they are perfectly aligned.
You'll have to practice your Queens English a bit too... :D haha
I'm Canadian and speak a very standard sounding English just like a standard American English. I had zero issues with this guys accent. It's pretty mild compared to some.
What make/model bearing puller are you using?
I'm not actually sure.... It's just one I happened to have in the toolbox, I can't remember where it came from.
For motors, you usually want smaller jaws that are long to reach all the way down the output shaft to the bearing.
good talk
You dont want the force to go through the balls
Interesting 82 posts
110 volt plug
damn that moli grease!such a pain in the mouth...nice vid tho, informative...
Why moto.. why motor vibrating at slow speed..
Usually from an unbalanced rotor, bent shaft or worn bearings.
that's called a stator not a rotor
Bearing should not be elaborated.
How to rebuild somebody else's electric motor.
Excellent info...