Hey everyone! Thanks so much for the positive feedback on this new video adventure. Much more to come! You can find the woofer and tweeter from the video here: Woofer - bit.ly/2KqkPEe Tweeter - bit.ly/2yQb0La and the rest of the products I used in the video under the description. Thanks again for watching!
You're awesome man, the first video I've seen from you, great quality!! What was the tune from that build montage by the way? Smooth and chill I loved it!
Kirby Meets Audio would you recommend building 2 tower for front left and right for home theatre.1 tower with 4 dayton tcp 115 8 and a powerful tweeter
@@ulamss5 It's totally related to distance and the wavelength of the frequency. 800Hz is about 15" in length, so the wave bounces off the table and comes up and partially cancels the direct wave. If the driver and mic were moved higher, the dip would go down in frequency.
@@ulamss5 The distance to the driver AND the nearby parallel surface equating the final distance that will influence the specific frequency that matches the distance of reflection. Basically, either remove reflectional abilities or increase the distance to any parallel surfaces far enough to remove any chances of wave cancellation.
Your plan to inspire worked well on me. Built a pair of two way speakers to hang under our kitchen cabinets to connect to the Echo dot. They sound great and look so much better than anything store bought.
Just wanted to say thanks. The variety of videos you post is what makes your channel my favorite speaker building channel out of the dozens I follow. Glad to see reviews with measurements added to your already wide variety of video types. Love it!
Hey Kirb, My 0.02$. I have been watching your vids off and on and have enjoyed them. the promise of more videos like this that I can use to make practical applications to my audio hobby has won over my subscription.
Thank you for this down to earth approach for DIY ideas dude! Not everyone has the resource(money) for pricey audio equipment while still want to enjoy good quality music/sounds. Appreciate folks like you to cater for our needs and informative knowledge sharing. Thank you Kirby!
When you have the mic right inside the woofer, you are making a near-field measurement. When you have the mic outside of a distance equal to 1/2 the driver diameter, it becomes a far-field measurement and the reflections from your workbench become significant, and that is why you start seeing dips. Dips come from anti-phase wave energy reaching the microphone in addition to the in-phase radiated energy. Near-field measurements are good up to some frequency related to the driver diameter, but ultimately the best thing is to put it in an infinite baffle, place the microphone 1 or more meter away, and then gate the reflections so they don't influence the measured response, and you will be able to get good high-frequency data (with limited low-frequency validity based upon the gate length), and then you can combine the nearfield and far field 1m measurement to get a continuous frequency response plot.
Good call. Gated measurements @1M are the way to go, particularly if the measurements are going to be used for x-over design work. I recommend actually doing the measurements in the box that you plan to use the driver in, as the size and shape of the baffle is also going to affect the results (there will be some gain at frequencies that have a wavelength smaller than the baffle's dimensions). The further that you mount the speaker and the mic away from any object that can impact the measurement, the longer the "gate" you can use, and the lower in frequency the measurement can go before it becomes inaccurate. One other trick I use - instead of using a tape measure, I use two dowels cut to size for distance measurement purposes - the first one cut to 1M to set the distance between the speaker and the mic, and another around 125cm in length to check to see if there are any nearby objects that are closer than 125 cm to the speaker (mounted on a 4 ft stand) or the mic (ditto) .
Love your videos! 2 cents from a professional audio engineer; Most accurate result would be to measure at 1 inch to reject all reflections and room modes and compensate for proximety effect. The low end response of a microphone varies significantly the closer you place it to the sound source. I would measure the proximity effect of the mic at 1 inch and then deduct that amount to offset your measurement result and compensate for the artificial low end boost of the close mic placement. As is I don't think any of the measurements in this video are accurate enough to really tell us a true story. Love your work. Keep it up!
Really enjoy these more education videos. Your build videos are very nice but this really helps to understand what goes into the build. I like your style, very relaxed and not at all rushed like many. Thanks for putting in the time and sharing!
This was really great, glory! Really, really enjoyed this, built back in the day and now having to budgetize like a mo fo, can't wait to share this with friends who need cheap and good done
i want to thank you for your video's, and because of you i have built a few projects and i used you as a reference to do my thing. and every project exceeded what i thought i would build's. and so the next project is a sound bar which i have started listening to your newer series. again thank you for you do not really know just what you have meant to me and im sure many other's.
, I used this mid woofer along with the $8 dollar silk done tweeter to replace some drivers in a pair of KLH 3 way speakers I use at work in my maintenance garage. I'm powering them with the DTA-1 / T-AMP that you also did a video on. it sounds fantastic !!!!!!! perfect for what I need. I also replaced the 8 inch woofers in my KLH speakers as well. so now my KLH speakers are basically Dayton Audio 3 way speakers !!!!! I just kept the original crossovers inside the cabnets. I purchased two 25/8 inch X4 inch long port tubes from Dayton Audio to change my speakers from sealed cabnets to ported cabnets. I will do a sound comparison. Install one port and compair it to the sealed enclosure. if it sounds better, then I will do the other book shelf speaker as well. I personally think they will. oh, by the way, when I removed the drivers from one of the cabnets I noticed there was NO POLYFILL or insulation what so ever inside, ahhhh!!!!! no no no!!! I purchased some self stick 1/4 inch thick stick on insulation and some POLYFILL from Parts Express!!!!!! this will also help in the sound since I also upgraded the woofers to Dayton's 8 inch paper cone woofers !!!!!!!!!!!!😁 I truly think that the sound will be incredible when I get done reserecting these speakers from the dead, they were in storage for ten years and the drivers took a shit, tweeters were those cheap mylar POS. the woofers were literally frozen, stuck in place and wouldn't move back & forth to produce any sound. I may be looking into replacing the cross overs down the road to see if that helps as well because the factory cross overs are just simple resistor type bass blockers is all they are for the mid-range & tweeter. the subwoofer is wired direct to produce what ever it can with a full signal. this is typical common practice with cheaper speakers and I think with some quality upgraded proper crossovers, that they will sound much better. thanks for your videos Kirby, I subscribed to your channel as well, God bless & have a great day!!! keep up the good work. you are a great inspiration.
One tool I didn't see in your links was the hole saw for the baffle cutout. Parts Express says 3.77" Baffle Cutout Diameter, but doubt there's exactly that size out there. I'm guessing 3 3/4", but want to know before ordering. I am looking at building a LCR sound bar using your DIY speaker series as a guide (same drivers, crossover) but in a sealed enclosure (I will be using a powered sub, so low frequency response is not as important for my situation). Appreciate these videos, I learned a lot!
A review with some measurement! Absolutely awesome! That is really hard to find these days! Please do go on, Kirby! As your near field measurement at 3:55 shows 3000 Hz seems to be the real upper end, as I already expected from Dayton's graphs. That fast drop there might be a resonance. If you measured a waterfall spectrum we could see more.
Thanks Marius! Yeah, you caught my slip up there! Definitely should have said 3k. I realized what I said while editing. Oops! Thanks for watching! And keep the feedback coming! I know these review videos can get better.
Once again, Dayton comes through - best driver for the buck. BTW, price and sound quality don't necessarily correlate. I have heard some really "low end" drivers that sound awesome, and high end ones that sound awful. I've had many personal experiences with this. So don't worry about price, worry about sound.
Great content! I have loved your opinion from the start. I feel like I can trust your opinion without knowing too much about this stuff. Which means a lot for a channel like yours. I like the simple explanations even when it gets more difficult. I would definitely watch budget builds/reviews. For example, I have a computer and a Denon amplifier from the 90's paired with descend speakers. But no preamp from my computer to the amplifier. I can hear it needs one but I don't know much about them, what they do an how they work. So i have no idea what price point would give me what i want. The same goes for preamps for headphones, phantom power for mics... i'm just getting into this stuff and it feels like quite the rabbit hole haha. I'm always on the lookout for specialised youtube channels with honest looking reviews! so keep up the great work. You definitely improved your video's over time! Greetings from The Netherlands and have a great day Kirby ;-)
Hi Kirby, love your channel mate, great work...btw, bring back Jen 😉. Only comment is to ensure a broad sweep of the driver manufacturers, for me the channel seems to be sponsored by Dayton and for many we're also interested in the big boys like Scan Speak etc.... Keep up the great work, and a big thanks.
Great development! Like this new addition a lot. As opinion, I would like some comparisons! To a non-experienced speaker builder to-be, all the numbers say quite little when one have no experience to compare it to. To hear from someone who knows their stuff, which differences matters and which dont, when you look at different datasheets would help us at the bottom a lot!
Do you really mean it whenever you said it only moves 4mm??? I have a really cheap Drok speaker that hits 20 Hertz like a beast and moves 2cm... that's 7.5 times greater... please tell me that that was a mistake and that you meant cm instead of mm...
No, sorry! I get this question all the time and theres really nothing you can do other than test the speaker your self with something like DATS or just guess. Thanks for watching!
These look like they could be the same drives from the Dayton MK series speakers. I'm super impressed with the transmission line towers and matching center/rears I got for a basement 5.1 system that has me rethinking the value of the living room system costing 3x. Not crazy efficient but power is cheap these days.
Having a table beneath your mic and driver affects the freq response massively. You could try suspending your mic and removing the table for less reflection? Great review nonetheless
Great video. Would be cool to see a mid tier portable speaker build from parts Express? Or if the higher end speakers aren't too much more than mid tier? Like the vifa speakers I loved seeing the graphs by the way and break down of how it measures. Exactly what people need when building speakers, almost my favorite part.
@KirbyMeetsAudio hey mate, wondering if you can tell me what or where you got those eye glass frames? would appreciate your help. thanks for the video's
, I have an old pair of RCA speakers that actually work with decent bass but needs upgraded bad for work. I'm buying two of these woofers and two tweeters that you recommend for 8 bucks and woofers for $12 bucks each. nice specs. should work perfectly. the cabnets are 10x6 1/2x7. about the size of the Micca 42Xs.
HELLO RECENTLY BUY THE TWOETER Dayton Audio TD20F-4 3/4 OF 4 OHM AND THE WOOFER Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4 OF 4 OHM. CAN YOU HELP ME WITH THE VALUES THAT THE IDEAL CROSSOVER SHOULD CARRY FOR THIS COUPLE? I WANT TO BUILD IT I THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR HELP
I have the 6.5" dayton audio classics paired with two ds18 PRO-TW120B's, and all connected to two Audiopipe 150W RMS crossovers. Sounds like a 400 dollar 2 way system for only 120 dollars.
Hey quick question, I've got a pair of Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers. But one of my drivers blew, I was wondering if these would be good replacements. At 12 bucks this seems like a great deal. Would it be worth getting a pair of these to just replace both my drivers or should I aim to try getting the same Micca Drivers or something else? How would the TCP115 Compare to the HiVi B4N 4" Aluminum Round Frame Midbass?
What kind of money are we talking to buy a driver that rivals the big boys? If i wanted to build a rival to the 10kdollar stuff? Ive built a set using vifa speakers at about 20notes each and they sound incredible. Just curious
Hey, man! I've loved these videos for a while - your production value is impeccable and the speakers built just look like quality - but I'm wondering if you've done a more purpose-oriented video on creating an add-on subwoofer? Basically, I've got a little set of Fostex PM0.1 speakers that I love using for music production (I've learned how they sound and they work for me) but they lack in the low range. Do you think you could point me in the direction of, or create your own, video of a sub that can be used as a passthrough to the main speakers? Fostex's PSub Mini is cheap, but I'm betting it's large for my tastes and it'd be cool to build one myself. I just don't know how.
Hi Kirbey, great video buddy. I'm actually surprised how this speaker performs (although from a short distance) Maybe it's useful to make a Bluetooth speaker from it! Question: what is the manufacturer and model of that cute tiny amplifier? Greets, Emiel.
It can sound good, but it has lot's of disadvantages. Mainly diffraction and production. And what are the advantages? You get a uniquely shaped loudspeaker! There are plenty of other ways to do that. As for size, that's not the problem. You can easily cut triangles and put them together. The problem is adding them together accurately. Also volume is quite innefficient.
Melon. , I love that shape, I thought I was the only one. in fact, I'm going to use these exact speakers to make me some computer speakers out of in the shape of a pyramid without the point on top. kind of cut off a little. tweeter on top, bass driver at bottom, port and connectors on back. hook them up to my Altec Lansing sub and ditch the crappy little satalite speakers that came with the system. I just have to incorporate the controller some how in the design. oh well, that's what epoxy is for I guess, lol.
Melon. , that's exactly what I'm doing next with the tweeter at the top. I thought I was the only person with that idea, lol. vented also with 2 of these woofers so I can get a 4 OHm load for my class T dta-120 Dayton amp.
Btw absolutely love your channel, I've been following a long time and you got me more in dept to this whole speaker thing so thank you very much! I even have a video (quite terrible tho) but still :D
I think both the tweeter and mid you showed is what dayton used in the MK402, which got some great reviews! Can't wait to see what you think on the finished product. BTW I meant to tell you last video, if you ever break an arm don't go to the same doctor, they'll put you in a body cast. lol
That is an open baffle, not an infinite baffle. Tour test set-up results, at even that few inches, will be affected by the proximity of both the benchtop and the back of the computer screen This might explain some of the differences in the graphs. Nevertheless, interesting.
Suggestion : Next time you build a pair of Great and True sounding speakers, name them the `Bernie´s` and make a stand for them filled with sand (to dampen resonance) name those the `Sanders` XD Thumbs up dude :)
Hey everyone! Thanks so much for the positive feedback on this new video adventure. Much more to come! You can find the woofer and tweeter from the video here: Woofer - bit.ly/2KqkPEe Tweeter - bit.ly/2yQb0La and the rest of the products I used in the video under the description. Thanks again for watching!
You're awesome man, the first video I've seen from you, great quality!! What was the tune from that build montage by the way? Smooth and chill I loved it!
Kirby Meets Audio would you recommend building 2 tower for front left and right for home theatre.1 tower with 4 dayton tcp 115 8 and a powerful tweeter
Kirby Meets Audio , good quality sound doesn't have to cost as much as a new car, thanks for your channel.
Any chance would you be willing to share the measurement file?
That dip at 800hz is a reflection off the table. Not the baffle, not the ambient noise, not the mic or driver, nothing except the reflection.
Also the laptop? maybe
Is there a consolidated list of common dips/peaks caused by environment stuff?
@@ulamss5 It's totally related to distance and the wavelength of the frequency. 800Hz is about 15" in length, so the wave bounces off the table and comes up and partially cancels the direct wave. If the driver and mic were moved higher, the dip would go down in frequency.
@@gregworrel2623 so this dip is generally correlated to the distance from the driver to nearby parallel surfaces?
@@ulamss5 The distance to the driver AND the nearby parallel surface equating the final distance that will influence the specific frequency that matches the distance of reflection. Basically, either remove reflectional abilities or increase the distance to any parallel surfaces far enough to remove any chances of wave cancellation.
Your plan to inspire worked well on me. Built a pair of two way speakers to hang under our kitchen cabinets to connect to the Echo dot. They sound great and look so much better than anything store bought.
Thats so awesome! Thanks for watching!
Just wanted to say thanks. The variety of videos you post is what makes your channel my favorite speaker building channel out of the dozens I follow. Glad to see reviews with measurements added to your already wide variety of video types. Love it!
Even as an expert I still learn things so its nice to see an amateur such as yourself following that same path.
Hey Kirb,
My 0.02$. I have been watching your vids off and on and have enjoyed them. the promise of more videos like this that I can use to make practical applications to my audio hobby has won over my subscription.
Thank you for this down to earth approach for DIY ideas dude! Not everyone has the resource(money) for pricey audio equipment while still want to enjoy good quality music/sounds. Appreciate folks like you to cater for our needs and informative knowledge sharing. Thank you Kirby!
When you have the mic right inside the woofer, you are making a near-field measurement. When you have the mic outside of a distance equal to 1/2 the driver diameter, it becomes a far-field measurement and the reflections from your workbench become significant, and that is why you start seeing dips. Dips come from anti-phase wave energy reaching the microphone in addition to the in-phase radiated energy. Near-field measurements are good up to some frequency related to the driver diameter, but ultimately the best thing is to put it in an infinite baffle, place the microphone 1 or more meter away, and then gate the reflections so they don't influence the measured response, and you will be able to get good high-frequency data (with limited low-frequency validity based upon the gate length), and then you can combine the nearfield and far field 1m measurement to get a continuous frequency response plot.
rorybz , here we go with another Goggle smart couch zombie explaining everything
Tim Schutte Let me know if anything was unclear, and I’ll do my best to make it understandable for you.
rorybz , thank you Mr Guttenburg Einstein
Good call. Gated measurements @1M are the way to go, particularly if the measurements are going to be used for x-over design work. I recommend actually doing the measurements in the box that you plan to use the driver in, as the size and shape of the baffle is also going to affect the results (there will be some gain at frequencies that have a wavelength smaller than the baffle's dimensions). The further that you mount the speaker and the mic away from any object that can impact the measurement, the longer the "gate" you can use, and the lower in frequency the measurement can go before it becomes inaccurate.
One other trick I use - instead of using a tape measure, I use two dowels cut to size for distance measurement purposes - the first one cut to 1M to set the distance between the speaker and the mic, and another around 125cm in length to check to see if there are any nearby objects that are closer than 125 cm to the speaker (mounted on a 4 ft stand) or the mic (ditto) .
Another know it a-hole making it over complicated👎🏾
i love watching your build videos the most but i love all your uploads
Love your videos! 2 cents from a professional audio engineer; Most accurate result would be to measure at 1 inch to reject all reflections and room modes and compensate for proximety effect. The low end response of a microphone varies significantly the closer you place it to the sound source. I would measure the proximity effect of the mic at 1 inch and then deduct that amount to offset your measurement result and compensate for the artificial low end boost of the close mic placement.
As is I don't think any of the measurements in this video are accurate enough to really tell us a true story.
Love your work. Keep it up!
Really enjoy these more education videos. Your build videos are very nice but this really helps to understand what goes into the build. I like your style, very relaxed and not at all rushed like many. Thanks for putting in the time and sharing!
I used the Dayton 5 inch designer series in an mtm configuration in two different towers. They sound awesome and are fun to listen too.
This was really great, glory! Really, really enjoyed this, built back in the day and now having to budgetize like a mo fo, can't wait to share this with friends who need cheap and good done
i want to thank you for your video's, and because of you i have built a few projects and i used you as a reference to do my thing. and every project exceeded what i thought i would build's. and so the next project is a sound bar which i have started listening to your newer series. again thank you for you do not really know just what you have meant to me and im sure many other's.
, I used this mid woofer along with the $8 dollar silk done tweeter to replace some drivers in a pair of KLH 3 way speakers I use at work in my maintenance garage.
I'm powering them with the DTA-1 / T-AMP that you also did a video on.
it sounds fantastic !!!!!!!
perfect for what I need.
I also replaced the 8 inch woofers in my KLH speakers as well.
so now my KLH speakers are basically Dayton Audio 3 way speakers !!!!! I just kept the original crossovers inside the cabnets. I purchased two
25/8 inch X4 inch long port tubes from Dayton Audio to change my speakers from sealed cabnets to ported cabnets.
I will do a sound comparison. Install one port and compair it to the sealed enclosure. if it sounds better, then I will do the other book shelf speaker as well. I personally think they will.
oh, by the way, when I removed the drivers from one of the cabnets I noticed there was NO POLYFILL or insulation what so ever inside, ahhhh!!!!! no no no!!!
I purchased some self stick 1/4 inch thick stick on insulation and some POLYFILL from Parts Express!!!!!! this will also help in the sound since I also upgraded the woofers to Dayton's 8 inch paper cone woofers !!!!!!!!!!!!😁
I truly think that the sound will be incredible when I get done reserecting these speakers from the dead, they were in storage for ten years and the drivers took a shit, tweeters were those cheap mylar POS.
the woofers were literally frozen, stuck in place and wouldn't move back & forth to produce any sound. I may be looking into replacing the cross overs down the road to see if that helps as well because the factory cross overs are just simple resistor type bass blockers is all they are for the mid-range & tweeter.
the subwoofer is wired direct to produce what ever it can with a full signal. this is typical common practice with cheaper speakers and I think with some quality upgraded proper crossovers, that they will sound much better.
thanks for your videos Kirby, I subscribed to your channel as well, God bless & have a great day!!! keep up the good work.
you are a great inspiration.
bro your videos are so good! they have for sure inspired me I'm hoping to make a speaker soon
One tool I didn't see in your links was the hole saw for the baffle cutout. Parts Express says 3.77" Baffle Cutout Diameter, but doubt there's exactly that size out there. I'm guessing 3 3/4", but want to know before ordering. I am looking at building a LCR sound bar using your DIY speaker series as a guide (same drivers, crossover) but in a sealed enclosure (I will be using a powered sub, so low frequency response is not as important for my situation). Appreciate these videos, I learned a lot!
Which type of enclosure is good for this woofer? Ported or sealed
¿Do you think that a pair of Dayton Audio PS95-8, plus this little woofer is a good choice?, for a bedroom 2.1 audio system
Frankly i also thougth about him as a little Sub.... in my case i want to put him in a bandpass enclosure so the higher Freq. wouldn't be hearable...
1:30 in and ur getting all technical, I'm gunna learn a lot from this channel. Subbed
like every video on youtube and every thread in any audio forum about speakers: not a word about the sound!!
Your videos have been amazing helpful I never knew how much thought went into building a speaker
As my first build, I’d like to make a small boombox using 2 of these drivers & 2 tweeters.. what crossover & bluetooth amp would you recommend?
A review with some measurement! Absolutely awesome! That is really hard to find these days! Please do go on, Kirby!
As your near field measurement at 3:55 shows 3000 Hz seems to be the real upper end, as I already expected from Dayton's graphs. That fast drop there might be a resonance. If you measured a waterfall spectrum we could see more.
Thanks Marius! Yeah, you caught my slip up there! Definitely should have said 3k. I realized what I said while editing. Oops! Thanks for watching! And keep the feedback coming! I know these review videos can get better.
DA is a great company! I've always love DA since I opened my car audio business. Well actually before but I can definitely attest to their quality!
Once again, Dayton comes through - best driver for the buck. BTW, price and sound quality don't necessarily correlate. I have heard some really "low end" drivers that sound awesome, and high end ones that sound awful. I've had many personal experiences with this. So don't worry about price, worry about sound.
Thanks BRAH! Really helped with making a decision to add base to a flat panel speaker system im building
Great content! I have loved your opinion from the start. I feel like I can trust your opinion without knowing too much about this stuff. Which means a lot for a channel like yours. I like the simple explanations even when it gets more difficult. I would definitely watch budget builds/reviews. For example, I have a computer and a Denon amplifier from the 90's paired with descend speakers. But no preamp from my computer to the amplifier. I can hear it needs one but I don't know much about them, what they do an how they work. So i have no idea what price point would give me what i want. The same goes for preamps for headphones, phantom power for mics... i'm just getting into this stuff and it feels like quite the rabbit hole haha. I'm always on the lookout for specialised youtube channels with honest looking reviews! so keep up the great work. You definitely improved your video's over time! Greetings from The Netherlands and have a great day Kirby ;-)
Kirby,
The spec sheet lists 55-6000 Hz, how about an explanation of how this compares to your Mic test graph...please.
PTJeff9x , the 55 Hz you say that is listed on the special sheet is only obtainable through an
F-3 vented box.
Hi Kirby, love your channel mate, great work...btw, bring back Jen 😉. Only comment is to ensure a broad sweep of the driver manufacturers, for me the channel seems to be sponsored by Dayton and for many we're also interested in the big boys like Scan Speak etc.... Keep up the great work, and a big thanks.
Great development! Like this new addition a lot. As opinion, I would like some comparisons! To a non-experienced speaker builder to-be, all the numbers say quite little when one have no experience to compare it to. To hear from someone who knows their stuff, which differences matters and which dont, when you look at different datasheets would help us at the bottom a lot!
Do you really mean it whenever you said it only moves 4mm??? I have a really cheap Drok speaker that hits 20 Hertz like a beast and moves 2cm... that's 7.5 times greater... please tell me that that was a mistake and that you meant cm instead of mm...
have these for my rear surround. pretty transparent and work great from 100hz to 500hz
Sir how u can calculate weight for other brand woofer in added mass in Dayton datsv3
how did you brake your harm building speakers?
Any tips on building an enclosure for a speaker you do not have technical specs on?
No, sorry! I get this question all the time and theres really nothing you can do other than test the speaker your self with something like DATS or just guess. Thanks for watching!
Trial and error.wont be optimized but with a little luck it'll still sound good.
Craig Shelhammer I luckily got mine to play at 27 hertz. I'm using a Drok 4" circle driver.
/b/ Tard very nice!whatd you put it in?
Is it possible to do a 4 woofer series parallel mtm and put extra inductors on outer 2 to roll off the mids ?
Videos like these do inspire, thanks bro. Would these sound good in a car a pillar with a tweeter 😂
Mate, if you can fit a woofer in an A-Pillar, I think it’d be great
These look like they could be the same drives from the Dayton MK series speakers.
I'm super impressed with the transmission line towers and matching center/rears I got for a basement 5.1 system that has me rethinking the value of the living room system costing 3x. Not crazy efficient but power is cheap these days.
Idk if this is normal but when I got this driver, it’s sorta always had a Little rubbing if you push it down to to where the surround dimples
Should you have the lid of your laptop pointing right at the mic? The reflections must be affecting the sound.
Which woofer is gud for a passive studio speaker
Having a table beneath your mic and driver affects the freq response massively. You could try suspending your mic and removing the table for less reflection? Great review nonetheless
Agreeeeeed! It's embarrassing, but I just forgot to bring my boom to the shop that day. Thanks for watching!
Kirby Meets Audio Aha I didn't doubt you knew that was going on... I was just curious as to whether or not you had a solution
Great video. Would be cool to see a mid tier portable speaker build from parts Express? Or if the higher end speakers aren't too much more than mid tier? Like the vifa speakers
I loved seeing the graphs by the way and break down of how it measures. Exactly what people need when building speakers, almost my favorite part.
How would this do in a tline? And how long would you make it? Stuffing?
Hi, Looking for a replacement speaker for my SONOS Play 1. Can you recommend a Make & Model? Cheers Danny
Hey Kirby, do you have or are thinking of making any labyrinth speaker build kits?
@KirbyMeetsAudio hey mate, wondering if you can tell me what or where you got those eye glass frames? would appreciate your help. thanks for the video's
Fantastic. Been waiting for something like this on your channel. Although some of what you say is alien to me. I'll get there
, I have an old pair of RCA speakers that actually work with decent bass but needs upgraded bad for work. I'm buying two of these woofers and two tweeters that you recommend for 8 bucks and woofers for $12 bucks each. nice specs.
should work perfectly.
the cabnets are 10x6 1/2x7.
about the size of the Micca 42Xs.
Should I use it as a mid-range driver for my 3 way system?
can you still remember the title of the music at 4:55. I check the link in your description & it's not there. Thanks
i need a good idea for putting mids and tweeters to balance the bass from 2 15 inch woofers in one box help
What happens when I hook this thing up to a amplifier that puts out 100 watts for the sub, will it brake?
HELLO RECENTLY BUY THE TWOETER Dayton Audio TD20F-4 3/4 OF 4 OHM AND THE WOOFER Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4 OF 4 OHM. CAN YOU HELP ME WITH THE VALUES THAT THE IDEAL CROSSOVER SHOULD CARRY FOR THIS COUPLE? I WANT TO BUILD IT I THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR HELP
Thats a solid price for it.Dayton has some decent stuff for sure.
Does it specifically the focal length from the length from the cone? I mean 2mm away can't sound good can it?
Very helpful and awesome doing measures... loved it!
I got infinity rs3 tht can use more crisp and better sound bass wish 6.5 mid bass or speaker u recommend me
What is the little amp that you used ??
I have the 6.5" dayton audio classics paired with two ds18 PRO-TW120B's, and all connected to two Audiopipe 150W RMS crossovers. Sounds like a 400 dollar 2 way system for only 120 dollars.
The FREE speaker build plans doesn't seem to work. I signed up twice with different email addresses and never received anything.
What about the transfer function of that amp hahha? Is it flat enough for these measuremnts?
Hi, kirby, I have been see all your tutorials and I love it .
Please tell me how function the program to test speakers..Thanks
sooo, what is a recommended enclosure?
Hey quick question, I've got a pair of Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers. But one of my drivers blew, I was wondering if these would be good replacements. At 12 bucks this seems like a great deal. Would it be worth getting a pair of these to just replace both my drivers or should I aim to try getting the same Micca Drivers or something else? How would the TCP115 Compare to the HiVi B4N 4" Aluminum Round Frame Midbass?
Ended up getting the Daytons, but part of me still wonders which one would sound better between daytons and HiVi B4n
More reviews like this please
Hi this is comfortable as studio reference monitor?
Love the videos! Keep them coming.
Could you link the track that started playing at about 2 minutes in please?
Dayton makes decent inexpensive drivers. The only issues I've had with them is surround separation. Super glue fixed it in 1 min.
What kind of money are we talking to buy a driver that rivals the big boys? If i wanted to build a rival to the 10kdollar stuff?
Ive built a set using vifa speakers at about 20notes each and they sound incredible. Just curious
Hey Kirby, is it possible that you can send me the WinISD files? I don't find them in the web....
Hey, man! I've loved these videos for a while - your production value is impeccable and the speakers built just look like quality - but I'm wondering if you've done a more purpose-oriented video on creating an add-on subwoofer? Basically, I've got a little set of Fostex PM0.1 speakers that I love using for music production (I've learned how they sound and they work for me) but they lack in the low range. Do you think you could point me in the direction of, or create your own, video of a sub that can be used as a passthrough to the main speakers? Fostex's PSub Mini is cheap, but I'm betting it's large for my tastes and it'd be cool to build one myself. I just don't know how.
Thanks for sharing Kirby!
Is this one better than the 105
Hi Kirbey, great video buddy. I'm actually surprised how this speaker performs (although from a short distance) Maybe it's useful to make a Bluetooth speaker from it! Question: what is the manufacturer and model of that cute tiny amplifier? Greets, Emiel.
Pls tell me how is the imaging and soundstage of the tweeter? I wans something cheap to change my stupid old Philips no tweeter satellites
Could you review the dayton audio nd 65-8 next please?
If so, thanks a lot👍
I'll put it on the list! Thanks for watching!
What would a pre assembled pair cost?
try making a pyramid themed box for some speakers
Why a pyramid out of all shapes?
Melon. It wouldn't sound good... and it would be extremely hard to find the size...
It can sound good, but it has lot's of disadvantages. Mainly diffraction and production. And what are the advantages? You get a uniquely shaped loudspeaker! There are plenty of other ways to do that.
As for size, that's not the problem. You can easily cut triangles and put them together. The problem is adding them together accurately. Also volume is quite innefficient.
Melon. , I love that shape, I thought I was the only one.
in fact, I'm going to use these exact speakers to make me some computer speakers out of in the shape of a pyramid without the point on top.
kind of cut off a little.
tweeter on top, bass driver at bottom, port and connectors on back.
hook them up to my Altec Lansing sub and ditch the crappy little satalite speakers that came with the system.
I just have to incorporate the controller some how in the design.
oh well, that's what epoxy is for I guess, lol.
Melon. , that's exactly what I'm doing next with the tweeter at the top.
I thought I was the only person with that idea, lol.
vented also with 2 of these woofers so I can get a 4 OHm load for my class T dta-120 Dayton amp.
Btw absolutely love your channel, I've been following a long time and you got me more in dept to this whole speaker thing so thank you very much! I even have a video (quite terrible tho) but still :D
Thanks for watching!
800 hz is 1.4 ft wavelength. probably about the distance to the table top and back reflection
Please make the video for speakers
Can the speaker use as subwoofer
Adoro seu trabalho sou do Brasil,a qui no Brasil não tem esses woofers super bons como aí mas estou montando uma bookshelf pra mim.
Kirby Meets Audio+
Doesn't it matter if it's in a enclosure instead of wide open?
Yeah, it does. However, measuring it in an enclosure will make a difference in the measurements that affects your calculations negatively
can you make a review o Dayton Audio DC28F tweeters
Where'd you get your hat from?
I think both the tweeter and mid you showed is what dayton used in the MK402, which got some great reviews! Can't wait to see what you think on the finished product. BTW I meant to tell you last video, if you ever break an arm don't go to the same doctor, they'll put you in a body cast. lol
1pdigit , wrong, I have the MK-402s and the drivers in them are much better than these, much better !!!!!!!!!
I'm looking for a 4" 6 ohm version of this.
How much for this speaker?
Thing is manufacturers measure speakers from 1 metre away, that is DIN 45500
just measured one of these and the resonance is around 65 Hz
That is an open baffle, not an infinite baffle. Tour test set-up results, at even that few inches, will be affected by the proximity of both the benchtop and the back of the computer screen This might explain some of the differences in the graphs. Nevertheless, interesting.
I bought two of these 👍
You guys in the USA are so lucky you have PartsExpress, we have f**k all here in the UK
Is your hand okay .
is a good product?
Amar lagbe kivabe pabo ti bolen
Suggestion : Next time you build a pair of Great and True sounding speakers, name them the `Bernie´s` and make a stand for them filled with sand (to dampen resonance) name those the `Sanders` XD Thumbs up dude :)