The fixture table is excellent. I find these videos interesting because I get to see different approaches to solving problems. These are the types of problems most encountered by home builders. When Something breaks, and there are no parts available you have to find a solution.
Nice job on the CAM wheel. Done similar, but was able to set it up using a face plate on a lathe, with a detachable saddle. I MIG welded it, using NiFe MIG wire and turned it back into spec. There were no circlip grooves as it used a retaining washer on the top. I recall that the MIG wire wasn't cheap, but it went down really smooth and had no holes at all. The wagon wheel didn't surprise me with the distortion, I honestly thought there would have been much more. The welding table is such an awesome tool by itself. Well done, first class jobs, see you next week 👍
Was thinking 🤔 same thing about machinist jack, plus would have clamped down in more than 1 place too, just our luck, go to turn it back down and it spin on table just enough to mess it up and/or break a insert or piece hss
Also I think once I had clocked it true I would have drilled with a centre drill so there would be a reference point in case it moved,and it could then be welded on a rotary table off mill and then easily set back up again
For the first part you made with the boring head; well done with the circlip groove. Really nice job. You will reduce chatter if you support your part and reduce the length of stick out on the bar. Rigidity is king when machining Ollie. The spigot you were working on, was flying in mid air completely unsupported. When it comes to cutting, you will always cut it if you have something harder. The carbide inserts are incredibly hard and will see off most welds. The swap to HSS worked in the end. Again, nice job. Before giving up with the mig I might have tried a quick cut on the mill. Great job on the wheel.
I work on large square balers as my job, that part is the crank arm for the knotters the centre spline go on the knotter shaft while the worn pin is connected to the needle carriage which brings the twine around the back of the bale. It’s missing the clutch part but there is another little lever with a roller on the inside which stops this peice from turning when it’s not tying a knot
Another varied selection of repair jobs completed. As other comments about the pin machining, extra support under the pin would help solve the chatter. I'm no machinist but i've seen it done by others. Thanks for this weeks update. Brian from South Yorkshire.
It's probably the thick end of 40 years since I last welded cast iron using nickel rods. I got very good results by cleaning each weld pass with a pneumatic needle scaler. That had the effect of peening each weld to help take the stress out, as well as removing the slag.
Good morning, Oliver. A couple of jobs that needed an engineering pro to make them successful. Nice. Parts at 2 degrees C means the mate doing the welding is freezing his ass of for a couple of hours. Nice job knocking them out. And I'm pretty sure that beet harvester ring never looked so good. Thanks for letting us see a little more of your farm. I didn't realize you had a dairy farm as well. That's how I grew up and it takes me back. Thanks for that. That hay blower your dad was operating is a blessing. I used to be on the wagon, chucking hay bale sections to the herd. Thanks for the video and hope Tenerife helped recharge your batteries. 🎄Happy holidays! 🎄 Cheers, mate.
Josh Topper, on the Topper Machine LLC channel, did pretty well the same repair on a hay baler 6 months or so ago. I'm going to watch this one and then go back and rewatch Josh's video, to compare how you did a similar job.
Good job Ollie, it is never straight forward on equipment repairs, then material gets work hardened, you never know the original specifications. Probably worst of all is pricing those sorts of jobs. Keep up the good work, have a good holiday, and a great Christmas & New Year.
hey olly . In the boring head use as short a boring bar as possible, and then I use the **gt inserts (for aluminium) for the finish cuts. Not that you need any hints… super job
A lot of work in repairing that wheel. Customers says “it just wants a new rim” all it needs is 40 separate welds cutting out and dressing then 40 separate welds to put it back together.
Hi Oliver, good fix on the cam axle, grooving tool worked a treat, when I saw that wheel I wondered if it would spring all over the place once you cut the rim off, but your grasp of what's happening , and aplication of a bit of force won out in the end, ha, ha, never doubted you mate, thanks for another interesting video, stay safe, best wishe's for Xmas to all there. Stuart Uk.
Was wondering how the hell you were going to turn that in the lathe, saw the miller and thought rotary table ( not going to be easy). Never realised you could use the boring head to skim an outside diameter, cleaver
Also by putting boring head in reverse it cut inwards not the usual outwards. Took a while before I figured out how he was going to do the circlip groove.
As soon as I saw that wheel I thought getting it straight would be a bit of work! Nice job though, perfectly good enough for its purpose. If you do another it might be worth tacking it, then setting the hub up vertically off the side of the bench so you can fully weld each spoke at a time to help prevent them pulling. Cutting and welding the rim to size first would also remove another potential source of warping from the bigger welds you needed in that area. If it came out slightly undersize you could just warm it up with the torch to get it on the spokes.
Not a bad couple of jobs this week Ollie. Couple of love taps with a tapping stick sorted .. must have been a bugger weather wise this week cold temperature out and you're handling cold metal .. we can see the breath in a few shots . I was puzzled how you were going to refinish the shaft on the first job then the mill came into play great use of the tooling . Cheers young man 😊
Good old school repair on the shaft, Oliver. And replacing the wheel was not fun. If you have another job like that, you should start with welding a 1/4" wide piece of strap all around the spokes and then weld the round bar to it. That will keep it straight and easy replacement for next time.
Brilliant job on the crank 👌🏼 that beet part looks like an accelerator basket bottom. Runs like a record 🤘🏼 🤔 I wonder if you think a 3-D printer would be a good idea for pattern parts in future if metal powder can sinter. Maybe prototype for your design engineering. Do you work part time as BananaMan 🍌 😂😂😂
The next time you have an oxyacetylene torch and your infrared device, warm up a piece of bare metal, have a look at it with the IR device, then see how it looks with a patch of soot.
I think that the hot weld metal 'pulls' the carbon out of the cast. It requires a high nickel rod and pre heating (& possibly controlled cooling (annealing?). An alternative is cold stitching in some cases, not being paid by the hour though! Another method is brazing, tig brazing (ac/dc) is another possible route. Lots of info out there, usually the best thing is double check with something like AWS before you begin! ruclips.net/video/usRMtTFKpmI/видео.html
The cast iron has a lot of free carbon in it, in the form of graphite. When you weld cast with steel rods, that carbon goes into solution in the steel weld metal. You end up with very high carbon steel, which tends to be very hard and pretty much un-machinable.
I’m not familiar with the practice of cow dusting. Is it some sort of rust proofing? Or maybe it’s extra insulation for the cold weather. (Please don’t take it seriously)
on those turbines we always stitch welded an extra new ring on the edge of the turbine to take wear then it was easy to cut off and replace. turbines then lasted many acres
Hey was thinking that you could use the trick Keith Fener uses for straightening propeller shafts. Alternately heating with a torch and then quickly cooling the effected area with compress air and water mist. I've used his technique to straighten a severely bent leadscrew for a lathe and brought it back within a couple thousandths.
Can you burn out a bunch of washers in a few different thickness of stock to take up the slack space on your welding table quick tie down bolts vs buying shorter bolts?
That's known as buttering, afaik. Welding dissimilar metals. Mig welding leaves a relatively hard weld as compared to say gas or tig welding. It's a factor in vehicle body repair, with respect to crumple zones, afaik. Most people don't seem to care & use mig for most things.
If the nickel is too soft and you were machining a bit off all around the post, could you not have just done a single pass of nickel, machine it down almost until it's gone, and then MIG weld on top of the nickel? That way the nickel is just thick enough to act as a barrier layer to prevent carbon migration? Alternatively, how tight a tolerance does that stub have to have? Could you MIG weld it and abrasive grind it to size?
“I’m not quite sure what i am going to do”
Enters next frame holding large sledge 😂
Top work, Ollie. The farmers in your area must surely appreciate your work!
The fixture table is excellent.
I find these videos interesting because I get to see different approaches to solving problems.
These are the types of problems most encountered by home builders. When Something breaks, and there are no parts available you have to find a solution.
I really like the green milling Machine. It looks like an odd monster insect, ready for odd milling jobs😎🦖🦖
Ollie, that baler repair was right up your street!! Nothing easy and something to get your noddle working 👍👍
Funny, in the US we say.....right up your alley.
Love your channel, Ollie! Thanks so much for sharing. From Idaho .
Man! When he started bashing the wheel with the sledgehammer... I felt sorry for that brand new table. 😅.
Nice job on the CAM wheel. Done similar, but was able to set it up using a face plate on a lathe, with a detachable saddle. I MIG welded it, using NiFe MIG wire and turned it back into spec. There were no circlip grooves as it used a retaining washer on the top. I recall that the MIG wire wasn't cheap, but it went down really smooth and had no holes at all. The wagon wheel didn't surprise me with the distortion, I honestly thought there would have been much more. The welding table is such an awesome tool by itself. Well done, first class jobs, see you next week 👍
That Escco certainly handled the beet wheel - hard to imagine doing a job like that without a proper (large!) fixture table 🙌
Good fix on the crank, A simple bolt and nut or machinist's jack to support under that part would be a good idea next time.
Was thinking 🤔 same thing about machinist jack, plus would have clamped down in more than 1 place too, just our luck, go to turn it back down and it spin on table just enough to mess it up and/or break a insert or piece hss
Also I think once I had clocked it true I would have drilled with a centre drill so there would be a reference point in case it moved,and it could then be welded on a rotary table off mill and then easily set back up again
Supporting underneath the place you are machining will help with vibrations and shtter.
Hard days in the shed in winter. Thanks for sharing a day in your life. Great work on a variety of challenges.
Excellent job as always, that table really came in handy on that wheel..great video, keep'um coming.
Another great video Olly, I really enjoy these jobbing ones where’s there’s a mixture of welding & machining.
For the first part you made with the boring head; well done with the circlip groove. Really nice job. You will reduce chatter if you support your part and reduce the length of stick out on the bar. Rigidity is king when machining Ollie. The spigot you were working on, was flying in mid air completely unsupported. When it comes to cutting, you will always cut it if you have something harder. The carbide inserts are incredibly hard and will see off most welds. The swap to HSS worked in the end. Again, nice job. Before giving up with the mig I might have tried a quick cut on the mill.
Great job on the wheel.
A small jack under the machined area would also help support and reduce movements and vibrations. Great job overall!!
Another perfect video Oliver, repairing that cam wheel was a testament to your skills, that welding table was worth the cost
Thank you for bringing us along!
Two more very interesting jobs oliver
I work on large square balers as my job, that part is the crank arm for the knotters the centre spline go on the knotter shaft while the worn pin is connected to the needle carriage which brings the twine around the back of the bale. It’s missing the clutch part but there is another little lever with a roller on the inside which stops this peice from turning when it’s not tying a knot
I think it's the stuffer cam on a new Holland baler
Another varied selection of repair jobs completed. As other comments about the pin machining, extra support under the pin would help solve the chatter. I'm no machinist but i've seen it done by others. Thanks for this weeks update. Brian from South Yorkshire.
i was amazed how true the big wheel was when u spun it
Job well done. Thanks for the videos.
Cheers Ollie, another great vid , hope you’re enjoying your holiday 👍
It's probably the thick end of 40 years since I last welded cast iron using nickel rods. I got very good results by cleaning each weld pass with a pneumatic needle scaler. That had the effect of peening each weld to help take the stress out, as well as removing the slag.
Good looking cattle.
Happy days Oliver mate, getting nippy in the workshop now eh, proper job ans nicely presented as always 🎉 thanks for sharing
It's going to be a good Sunday again 😊. Good morning Ollie!
Nice job strightening that wheel.
Great job on the wheel Oliver. Love how you used your welding table to do that job. 👍👍👍
Nice job Oliver…. From Vietnam 🇻🇳
Nice bread and butter jobs Snowy, now all you have to do is get paid for them!
Watching the clamp jump in the wheel straightening phase was funny
Good morning, Oliver. A couple of jobs that needed an engineering pro to make them successful. Nice.
Parts at 2 degrees C means the mate doing the welding is freezing his ass of for a couple of hours. Nice job knocking them out. And I'm pretty sure that beet harvester ring never looked so good.
Thanks for letting us see a little more of your farm. I didn't realize you had a dairy farm as well. That's how I grew up and it takes me back. Thanks for that.
That hay blower your dad was operating is a blessing. I used to be on the wagon, chucking hay bale sections to the herd.
Thanks for the video and hope Tenerife helped recharge your batteries. 🎄Happy holidays! 🎄 Cheers, mate.
the end result is nice as always!! 👍👍👍
I love me Sunday snowball videos. As soon as it pops up, I pause and get me a cuppa tea, then 👀👀😏
As an old colliery blacksmith used to say to me "nigh enough for pit work" good enjoyable watch thanks.
You went full Camarata at the end !!!😅
😂😂❤
It looks simple jobs but is not easy at it seams but you got there in the end and nice job 👍
Nice one Olly enjoy your holiday
Another interesting video on a very different selection of repairs great job Oliver
Great content as always every project is a challenge when working on agri equipment
Morning Oliver. Great vid as usual!
great video enjoy your wee break away from work
Josh Topper, on the Topper Machine LLC channel, did pretty well the same repair on a hay baler 6 months or so ago. I'm going to watch this one and then go back and rewatch Josh's video, to compare how you did a similar job.
Nice job! You might use a needle gun to take off the slag after welding, takes the stress out of the welds and the parent material.
Great fix, the Baler is back in operation!
Good job Ollie, it is never straight forward on equipment repairs, then material gets work hardened, you never know the original specifications. Probably worst of all is pricing those sorts of jobs. Keep up the good work, have a good holiday, and a great Christmas & New Year.
You act like it's normal to work at 2.8 degrees! :) Thanks for the video.
😂Northern Europe would completely quiet down if we started looking at thermometers, at those temperatures...😂
@@peketee2278trust me that guy must work in an office it’s perfectly normal to work in those temperatures in the uk and colder
nice job again.
cheers
ben
hey olly . In the boring head use as short a boring bar as possible, and then I use the **gt inserts (for aluminium) for the finish cuts. Not that you need any hints… super job
Mr Snowball the engineering genius.
Yay Oliver is back.
A lot of work in repairing that wheel. Customers says “it just wants a new rim” all it needs is 40 separate welds cutting out and dressing then 40 separate welds to put it back together.
Hope you are feeling a bit perkier now than last week Ollie. Nice video.
Hi Oliver, good fix on the cam axle, grooving tool worked a treat, when I saw that wheel I wondered if it would spring all over the place once you cut the rim off, but your grasp of what's happening , and aplication of a bit of force won out in the end, ha, ha, never doubted you mate, thanks for another interesting video, stay safe, best wishe's for Xmas to all there. Stuart Uk.
Was wondering how the hell you were going to turn that in the lathe, saw the miller and thought rotary table ( not going to be easy). Never realised you could use the boring head to skim an outside diameter, cleaver
Also by putting boring head in reverse it cut inwards not the usual outwards. Took a while before I figured out how he was going to do the circlip groove.
Good work, thanks for sharing
Another top video from a top grafter. Cheers mush
As soon as I saw that wheel I thought getting it straight would be a bit of work! Nice job though, perfectly good enough for its purpose. If you do another it might be worth tacking it, then setting the hub up vertically off the side of the bench so you can fully weld each spoke at a time to help prevent them pulling. Cutting and welding the rim to size first would also remove another potential source of warping from the bigger welds you needed in that area. If it came out slightly undersize you could just warm it up with the torch to get it on the spokes.
Not an expert but would it help better to weld opposite spokes rather than sequentially. I couldn't see fully...maybe he did.
Brilliant as always 👍🏻🇬🇧
Thanks Oliver! The diesel punk penny-farthing's coming on nicely! 😆
😂❤
Another job well done !! Thank you !
I love your dairy cows Oliver, they look contented 😉😉
A couple more interesting jobs finished.
Great work Ollie!
Not a bad couple of jobs this week Ollie. Couple of love taps with a tapping stick sorted .. must have been a bugger weather wise this week cold temperature out and you're handling cold metal .. we can see the breath in a few shots . I was puzzled how you were going to refinish the shaft on the first job then the mill came into play great use of the tooling . Cheers young man 😊
If I still had one, I would sell my house to buy one of those fixture tables...LOL
Good old school repair on the shaft, Oliver. And replacing the wheel was not fun. If you have another job like that, you should start with welding a 1/4" wide piece of strap all around the spokes and then weld the round bar to it. That will keep it straight and easy replacement for next time.
Thank you.
Thanks for the video
toller job
Brilliant job on the crank 👌🏼 that beet part looks like an accelerator basket bottom. Runs like a record 🤘🏼 🤔 I wonder if you think a 3-D printer would be a good idea for pattern parts in future if metal powder can sinter. Maybe prototype for your design engineering. Do you work part time as BananaMan 🍌 😂😂😂
Super job brother
1,456 👍's up SBE thank you for sharing 🤗
The next time you have an oxyacetylene torch and your infrared device, warm up a piece of bare metal, have a look at it with the IR device, then see how it looks with a patch of soot.
Why does the welding material turn super hard on cast iron?
I think that the hot weld metal 'pulls' the carbon out of the cast. It requires a high nickel rod and pre heating (& possibly controlled cooling (annealing?). An alternative is cold stitching in some cases, not being paid by the hour though! Another method is brazing, tig brazing (ac/dc) is another possible route. Lots of info out there, usually the best thing is double check with something like AWS before you begin!
ruclips.net/video/usRMtTFKpmI/видео.html
The cast iron has a lot of free carbon in it, in the form of graphite. When you weld cast with steel rods, that carbon goes into solution in the steel weld metal. You end up with very high carbon steel, which tends to be very hard and pretty much un-machinable.
I’m not familiar with the practice of cow dusting. Is it some sort of rust proofing? Or maybe it’s extra insulation for the cold weather. (Please don’t take it seriously)
More nice fixes to keep your farmers working!
Good video. Thank you.
on those turbines we always stitch welded an extra new ring on the edge of the turbine to take wear then it was easy to cut off and replace. turbines then lasted many acres
That wheel is good enough for agricultural purposes!
GOOD JOB Oli. 🍺🍺👊
Which direction do you think you'll go long turn Oliver, engineering or farming?
Nice job.
Happy to see you taking breaks in the clips. Kinda wondered if you took good care of yourself. Or if you just worked your butt off.
Weld table clamps / toggle clamps would be a useful addition to your table. Or go ToT & make some ;)
Wouldn’t like to ride the bike that wheel fits on 😀well done by the way
Nice job...Thank You...
That spoked wheel is straighter than my bike wheel !!🤣🤣🤣
When doing symmetrical parts in CAD, it´s a lot faster to draw half the part and mirror it.
Excellent repairs! Thanks for the look.
Hey was thinking that you could use the trick Keith Fener uses for straightening propeller shafts. Alternately heating with a torch and then quickly cooling the effected area with compress air and water mist. I've used his technique to straighten a severely bent leadscrew for a lathe and brought it back within a couple thousandths.
The first job in is video is repairing a worn stub shaft on a crank/cam out of a baler.
Can you burn out a bunch of washers in a few different thickness of stock to take up the slack space on your welding table quick tie down bolts vs buying shorter bolts?
If you put a jack under the piece you are milling it should take out some of the chatter as its well out on the rim unsupported.
Good examples of simple little repair jobs, not really that simple. Both made you use a few grey cells. All add to the repertoire of knowledge.
That was a good one.
Ever turn jobs away or do jobs and people are never happy? Have you ever smiled or laughed in a video? 😉
It’s that uk stoicism. He smiles when he’s on a tractor.
British farmers don’t have humor.
Could you use nickel rods for the first layer and then mig weld over the top, or would the mig weld still go hard?
That's known as buttering, afaik. Welding dissimilar metals. Mig welding leaves a relatively hard weld as compared to say gas or tig welding. It's a factor in vehicle body repair, with respect to crumple zones, afaik. Most people don't seem to care & use mig for most things.
I like the part with the banana
If the nickel is too soft and you were machining a bit off all around the post, could you not have just done a single pass of nickel, machine it down almost until it's gone, and then MIG weld on top of the nickel? That way the nickel is just thick enough to act as a barrier layer to prevent carbon migration? Alternatively, how tight a tolerance does that stub have to have? Could you MIG weld it and abrasive grind it to size?