I like the directional anchor at the bottom. However, could you not also clove hitch the first draw as well? Or would a factor 2 fall be more dangerous than falling on that anchor? Thanks for the interesting video.
you can clove hitch the first draw (or use a biner), but as you said a factor 2 fall would be really bad. I go for ground anchors if it's possible. If you want the first bolt as backup, you could use a quick link there. If the anchors fails, it would jam into the quick link. Next video will show a fly-by anchor, with backup.
Attention! This could be very dangerous because: it is very easy to clip the wrong end of the rope; the revo has no reverse break so the rope can fully flip back and you have much to much slack!
Thanks, could you explain further? where is too much slack? For sure dead clipping is an issue. My Revo has color marks for the life rope. This side is also modified for shorter falls. Also I load the Revo always the same: life rope left, dead rope right. It happened one time that I clipped the wrong rope.
@@rock_shot about the clipping: solo climbing is a strange/expierienced thing that fore sure not everybody should do. If the risk is for you acceptable it is OK for me. about the slack: this could happend when you have an 40meter wall; 50m rope and less friction at the bolts/quickdraws at a bad situation the life rope had more weight than the slack at this point the rope is "pulling itself" down because the revo had no reverse break.
@@antonhandl6742 Yes, for this you have to use back feed stoppers in some way. Those work for me: ruclips.net/video/XmGq9Ce0H7s/видео.html I start to use them if the route is longer then 15 to 18 meters anyway. At this point you also have to use a cache loop. Good points! some videos of the risks will follow.
At the top feeding starts to get a little worse.. 15m is ok. This one has 18m. Depending on the backfeed stoppers as well. Also the risk of the Revo unlocking without cache loop increases.
Looks fun, I’ve never done any lead rope soloing but have done a fair bit of trad climbing. Don’t want to criticise but why would you not thread both rings at the top? Also using the overhand knot to tie the ropes maybe consider leaving a longer tail on the knot in case it slips, plus maybe use a prussic for the absail. These are things I’d do, but it’s up to you obviously. You do what you want, climbing is inherently risky and it’s part of the reason that it’s fun but I like to minimise danger when possible so I can keep doing it! :)
@@rock_shot i sgree with rock shot it would be very risky to take a fall here, even if placed well i would not abseil on it and good you chose double rope abseil.. well done
@@dreamtasterfpv2216 I tested my anchor before the climb and it was pretty solid! (put some gear above the anchor and bounced on it) For trad multi-pitch you have to trust this stuff anyway :) But your right! No further risk where it can be avoided.
Oh nice! I'm surprised there is no noise from the drone. Definitely gonna try to record one of my climbs with one, I have the original DJI Mavic pro but not sure if it tracks subject.
I'm using a double bowline. It's equally strong as the figure eight, it is easy to untie after falling and it's a personal preference. A figure of eight is fine of course.
I like the directional anchor at the bottom. However, could you not also clove hitch the first draw as well? Or would a factor 2 fall be more dangerous than falling on that anchor? Thanks for the interesting video.
you can clove hitch the first draw (or use a biner), but as you said a factor 2 fall would be really bad. I go for ground anchors if it's possible. If you want the first bolt as backup, you could use a quick link there. If the anchors fails, it would jam into the quick link. Next video will show a fly-by anchor, with backup.
Attention! This could be very dangerous because: it is very easy to clip the wrong end of the rope; the revo has no reverse break so the rope can fully flip back and you have much to much slack!
Thanks, could you explain further? where is too much slack? For sure dead clipping is an issue. My Revo has color marks for the life rope. This side is also modified for shorter falls. Also I load the Revo always the same: life rope left, dead rope right. It happened one time that I clipped the wrong rope.
@@rock_shot about the clipping: solo climbing is a strange/expierienced thing that fore sure not everybody should do. If the risk is for you acceptable it is OK for me.
about the slack: this could happend when you have an 40meter wall; 50m rope and less friction at the bolts/quickdraws at a bad situation the life rope had more weight than the slack at this point the rope is "pulling itself" down because the revo had no reverse break.
@@antonhandl6742 Yes, for this you have to use back feed stoppers in some way. Those work for me: ruclips.net/video/XmGq9Ce0H7s/видео.html
I start to use them if the route is longer then 15 to 18 meters anyway. At this point you also have to use a cache loop. Good points! some videos of the risks will follow.
@@rock_shot OK that´s a good way! Have fun and be careful about clipping the right end!
Nice efficiency on the rapel, bit longer tail ;) don't you need a cache loop with the revo? Sems to feed smoth
At the top feeding starts to get a little worse.. 15m is ok. This one has 18m. Depending on the backfeed stoppers as well. Also the risk of the Revo unlocking without cache loop increases.
Looks fun, I’ve never done any lead rope soloing but have done a fair bit of trad climbing. Don’t want to criticise but why would you not thread both rings at the top? Also using the overhand knot to tie the ropes maybe consider leaving a longer tail on the knot in case it slips, plus maybe use a prussic for the absail. These are things I’d do, but it’s up to you obviously. You do what you want, climbing is inherently risky and it’s part of the reason that it’s fun but I like to minimise danger when possible so I can keep doing it! :)
All points are absolutely valid. There is nothing to complain about your critics, thanks!
Helmet police
Also double edk perhaps? And maybe consider using the edelrid giga jul if you want to avoid a prusik but have a higher safety margin for the ab.
It would be nice to see a fall. Just see how the system works.
I would try to avoid fall training on mobile protection. When I find a good spot I take some shots of all kinds of test falls.
@@rock_shot i sgree with rock shot it would be very risky to take a fall here, even if placed well i would not abseil on it and good you chose double rope abseil.. well done
@@dreamtasterfpv2216 I tested my anchor before the climb and it was pretty solid! (put some gear above the anchor and bounced on it) For trad multi-pitch you have to trust this stuff anyway :) But your right! No further risk where it can be avoided.
Awesome stuff.
That was cool!. How did you record yourself? I'm curious.
A drone with active track. Still practicing, so better shots will follow
Oh nice! I'm surprised there is no noise from the drone. Definitely gonna try to record one of my climbs with one, I have the original DJI Mavic pro but not sure if it tracks subject.
@@finite.frames5572 the noise is reduced by the insta go2.. but the filter also decreases the overall sound quality
why you are not using a figure eight knot for the ancor point? what is the advantage of using the knot you are doing in this video on the
rope?
I'm using a double bowline. It's equally strong as the figure eight, it is easy to untie after falling and it's a personal preference. A figure of eight is fine of course.
just one revo?
Its a sport climb. So why using more than one?