I really like the idea of adding the rings. When I saw that I was convinced that the part is now stronger than original. Whether or not you fill the small voids before painting is a minor matter of taste. The key thing is making a proper structural repair. I appreciate seeing how you did that.
Fascinating to watch you work. Yes, there were a wide number of suggestions but, like you said, this is the way you're doing it. All of us, me included, put in our 2 cents' worth, but you do what you can, the way that works best for you, in the best way you can. As one commenter said, "it's a continuation of the history of this machine". Years down the road, someone will see those rings, wonder what happened, and after a little investigating, realize that you made it stronger than it was before. Bravo! Great job, Keith!
It's good it broke when it did. A couple weeks ago, I was in a parking lot when one of my brake lines ruptured. I was angry about it at first, but then I was grateful it happened in a parking lot instead of on the freeway. I'm a lucky guy.
i have followed the rescue and restoration of this old metal planer since you first started, it's fantastic to see the machines that built the modern world being given a second chance...... great work Keith
Absolutely brilliant with those rings! I wouldn't have trusted a repair on a part Like that with a break like that. Another trick in my bag thanks to an experienced man. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing! I just love someone trying to tell how to do a job, I know I don’t know everything but every time I have made a mistake it was because I let someone talk me into doing something “the better way” !
In 1972 I was running a Gray closed side planer for Waner&Swasey . One of the jobs I did did was planning old turret lathe beds for fitting hardened way strips . Before I could start I had to put in new roller bearing races . The first thing I did was put the races in the freezer to get them cold to shrink them to put them in the headstock. Then I made my setup. By then they were cold enough put in. If you got them perfectly straight and not waste too much time they would slip right to the back of the bore . With in about 5 seconds they would lock solid. I saw one of these machines completed and you couldn't tell the difference from a brand new machine. The strips were held on by brake off screws.
Would have never thought about adding the retaining rings to secure the repair - excellent example of craftsmanship. I agree with several other commenters - fill the voids with body putty, sand it down and then repaint. So many other details have been meticulously done on this machine...it doesn't make sense to leave the voids since it's such an easy aesthetic problem to solve. I'd knock it out if I were you.
Probably stronger now than it was originally without the crack and oil intrusion. Nice job. Filling the gap won't improve performance but would drive me nuts to leave it unfilled.
Totally agree many a brazing job if it fails again it’s always in the surrounding material. Never seen the braze it’s self fail. Besides if cleaned up properly once the brazing process is complete it’s a nice looking repair. 🇺🇸🦅🌏⚓️🇺🇸
Is the brazed area stronger, or was the integrity of the surrounding material weakened when the part was brazed? This is a genuine question. I don't know the answer. I do know that when some metals are welded, that the crystalline structure of the surrounding metal is changed causing it to become brittle and weak. I did some brazing in college, but that was many years ago and that's pretty much the extent of my brazing experience. This is just a question that came to me as I read your comment.
@@boldford I was pretty sure that's what you meant judging by your sentence structure, and knowing that if it was at fusing temp., that it would raise the risk of compromising the surrounding material. I appreciate your clarification though.
I was taught to always apply a paste of flux in water to the joint before heating the part. As soon as you raise the part to red heat it is forming surface oxides and eliminating some of the joint preparation you did. Flux stops that oxidation. Just adding flux to the rod means that the flux has to flow into the joint and remove the oxide that heating is creating.
Spot on advice Paul G. Brazing always must use a flux to chemically control surface oxides formed by the heating. Keith made no mention of fluxes as he used flux coated brazing rods.
@@stevebliss3600 Yes , was aware he is using flux coated rods. In fact brazing is impossible without any flux. However, my point still stands, the flux on the rod does not get to the joint until after the area has been raised to red heat and the oxidation has already occurred.
I would blend in the braze voids with TIG to make it look like a complete fix and to provide some additional tie-in of the rings. Quick work and would look better.
I've done lots of huge broken castings some veary large ones we added steel studs taped into the bevels groves and it's a must to add Borax flux Flux coated rod isn't enough .
From a functional point of veiw I am sure that is adequate. If it was my job I would have filled the void's on both sides just for the asthetic considerations. But it's Keith's job and his machine I am just grateful for his channel. :-)
If you braze the voids just to fill them you also add over braze to points that will then have to be remachined, if it is just for aesthetics, body filler or JB-Weld would be the choice.
When pre-heating the part prior to brazing, you said you don't have an oven in the shop. What about the heat treating oven you've shown us? Does it have a low enough temperature setting to be used for pre-heating parts before brazing? Is it large enough for this part?
I don't know the first thing about brazing, thanks for the info. I will say, you removed a lot more material prior to the braze than I thought you would. Thanks again.
Nice work, Keith. It is almost as if you have done this thing a time or two. ;) Thanks to you and the other youtube machinists, I was inspired to purchase my own lathe recently and hope to one day achieve something with it. If nothing I can make pens ;) thanks for the videos, have a good one.
Impressive practical repair. I've got to say I don't mind the voids, which help to tell the story of what happened to the part and how it was repaired.
Keith, I have a lot of experience when it comes to welding cast iron. I've done it all, and I can confidently say I know what I'm doing. With that in mind, I braze everything I can. Why? Because it works, and it's easier. And if the part serves it's purpose, that's the whole point. Most people I see that scoff at brazing either haven't done it, or base their opinion on an improper brazing job.
Would you advise brazing when repairing cracks on old antique tractor cylinder heads? I like my allis chalmers tractors, but it seems when ever I tear one apart for a rebuild I have a cracked head to deal with. Any advise on repairing cylinder head cracks on gas tractors?
I love using Muggyweld to do my brazing. I just like how arch brazing melts right in after a good preheat it's just so much faster and barely runs. Great for layering.
I started brazing bicycle frames when I was 12. Not perfect at first, but you learn. Since then, I've brazed many, many items, mostly CI, and I can't remember a repair that broke unless it was sketchy to begin with. I'd never weld CI, it just causes problems. Great repair; not the prettiest, but like others have said, that's what bondo is for.
You are making me feel more comfortable to braze I have a missing tooth on back gears and putting off trying to fix it. I'm getting alot less afraid of doing it now . Thanks as always awesome job !!
Nice repair and totally agree about brazing. And at worst, if you are really worried about the holes in the braze, you could always add an apoxy filler before painting.
The technique that Keith used on the collars is almost identical to the method used on steam locomotive to install the outer replaceable section of the driven wheels.
Oh come on Keith, we all know your going to fill in them little bits, they will be starring at you every time you use the machine, good video, thanks for sharing, can’t wait to see the planer do it’s thing.regards from the UK
Yes it is amazing it how steel will grow when it gets warm, I worked with a gentleman who used to lay out bridge beams before he moved the company that we work together at. He said that he would have to lay them out very early in the morning or even at night because the sun would cause the beams to curve from one side to the other based on where the sun was hitting them and it would cause his measurements to be off. This is also why on steel structures you have expansion joints I myself have seen the steel beams grow up to quarter-inch because of the Sun
Popular Mechanics, the magazine, I believe did a story of putting in place the last piece of the Gateway Arch in St Louis. Now also on RUclips. The operation was done as early as possible in the morning with the sun up heating both left and right sides of the Arch and the Fire department spraying water on the side toward the sun of the Arch to get the whole Arch the same temperature to fit the bolts in of the last piece to the Arch to which made the two sides one continuous structure.ruclips.net/video/41lMeWCVZ6I/видео.html
The heating of the rings is right in line in what we would do to put bearings on shafts in radial aircraft engines. Only difference is we heated them in an oil bath take them out and drop on the shaft. Very rarely had to tap them with a small hammer once or twice to get them to seat all the way.
Very interested in your comments on nickel welding. I just had to braze the end bracket of the x axis of my mill which some one had repaired with nickel arc weld. It was soon plain that no preparation had been done, the weld looked like pigeon droppings, and when the heat got on it it was so porous the oil and grime oozed out. I had to grind all the nickel away before I could braze.
I've seen a lot of the RUclips machinists do silicon bronze repairs on cast iron. I see the build up process they use on the external surfaces. Is there any tendency for the bronze to "wick" into the original mating surfaces like solder does on copper? Or is it more like using a hot glue stick on cardboard? Just curious.
It “wicks” into the cast structure and adheres to it just like solder would. That is the importance of heating the base metal high enough to melt the bronze on contact with it. Melting the rod with the torch and dripping it into the joint makes for a weak joint. I have seen repaired parts that were struck again break at a different point and the brazed joint held.
When preheating larger pieces for brazing I use a tiger torch just to get the piece good and hot. It takes a lot less oxy- Accetelin to get it up to brazing temperature.
Rule of thumb for thermal expansion (linear) of iron and steel: about 1 thou per inch per 100 degrees C (or 200 degrees F). Stainless steel, brass, bronze and copper all about 1.6.to 1.8 thou per inch per 100C.
There is a very similar process to shrinking the rings on sailboats back when they were all built out of wood. It was not uncommon for the mast to crack vertically but not catastrophically. They would wrap very heavy rope around the mast and tighten it with water and leverage. The process is called gammoning
It reminds me of the old company where I was. One of them had an accident with the one year old CNC lathe. The cast slide broke and the revolver sits on it. The delivery time for the spare part from Japan was 9 to 12 months, but urgent production was waiting. That's why the boss had the cast component brazing. A specialist company did it, and it was certainly expensive. After half a year, the new cast slide came from the manufacturer. Then the machine was taken apart again. The boss had to pay again. The employee waived his bonus this year but was not fired. But he had become very careful.
I was taught torch valve down, far easier to adjust the flame and safer as far as where the flame is when adjusting it. My input from B&S apprenticeship.
I learned that from experience after finding my welding glove cuff would occasionally rub on the valve knobs, changing the flow of gas during my welding or brazing. Most annoying.
No, the shrink rings would quickly fail under torque and stress without the additional strength of the brazed joints. With the rings and brazing it’s a very good repair.
I have to agree that those voids look bad, but I also agree that heating the whole thing, rings and all, might not be the best idea. Maybe a little J-B Weld would do the trick?
J-B Weld (metal loaded epoxy), sanding, and paint will make it look "purty". The part easily should be stronger than when it was originally cast. The tensile strength and shock resistance of bronze is greater than that of cast iron and those steel rings, most definitely, help. "Stuff" always happens. :>( It's what you do, when things take a turn for the worse, that matters. Excellent fix, Keith.
@@eliduttman315 We had a handle on a milling vise tha t was brazed 30 years ago [probably a 70 year old vise, shop opened in 1920] and took one heck of a beating....never any issues day in and day out......made me a believer in brazing......if done right......
I envy you, I couldn't live with myself leaving those brazing holes behind, the sight of them would haunt me for months. I assume you save a lot of time with these kind of jobs.
Keith, for those that don't know, brazing is perfectly fine on cast iron, or even for bonding steel to cast iron. However, when it comes to steel, it does not penetrate the metal, but is basically a coating. Welding on the other hand, actually bonds and penetrates into the base metal, and is much preferred. Light gauge metals that are exposed to the elements, such as exhaust pipe are at higher risk of failure in the future if brazed. I know that there's a certain sense of satisfaction with either, but welding steel is the most desirable.
It would look better if filled all the way but goodness this will be twice as strong as before. I think the force came from the internal key before now it will shear the key off if it stalls.
Probably should have remade the piece instead but kudos on the sleeves since they'll act like a tire on a locomotive driving wheels. Since their already there might as well fill in the deficits with some molten brass etc since it will add strength as well.
Would it be safer to keep the key out and use grub/set screw instead? If it happens again maybe then it just twists on the shaft and does not get broken. It does not look like it needs the key to transfer torque, especially if it can be operated by hand already... I cannot make that call of course, I cannot see for sure if it slipping on the shaft would save it or not next time. Cheers,
There have been many vises repaired with the brazing technique. Collectors won’t buy a brazed vise, but a vise repaired with bronze braze will work just fine.
Keith, thank you. I'm a machinist myself most of the time and I agree this is a functional repair. But, it seams you're in a kind of rush to get this *!?% planer out of your system which I can understand. This is not only about a machine in your workshop but the whole world is watching too. For me it would add extra pressure which I have enough already for my daytime job and that's the main reason I don't have a RUclips channel. But thankfully you do and I like to watch it! Back to the topic; with some small extra time and dedication this part would not only be repaired well but look nice too. For me that's additional satisfaction on getting the job done. I would rather see you spending two videos on this repair and fillet braze and file and sand it all to perfection. I'm just puzzling here about the repair and the final result in combination with maximum satisfaction on the job done and a final result which makes you smile years later. Maybe some food for thought. Rough jobs are common, bling results are rare. Thank you Keith! Looking forward to see some planer chips coming! Best, Job
I really like the idea of adding the rings. When I saw that I was convinced that the part is now stronger than original. Whether or not you fill the small voids before painting is a minor matter of taste. The key thing is making a proper structural repair. I appreciate seeing how you did that.
Fascinating to watch you work. Yes, there were a wide number of suggestions but, like you said, this is the way you're doing it. All of us, me included, put in our 2 cents' worth, but you do what you can, the way that works best for you, in the best way you can. As one commenter said, "it's a continuation of the history of this machine". Years down the road, someone will see those rings, wonder what happened, and after a little investigating, realize that you made it stronger than it was before. Bravo! Great job, Keith!
It's good it broke when it did.
A couple weeks ago, I was in a parking lot when one of my brake lines ruptured. I was angry about it at first, but then I was grateful it happened in a parking lot instead of on the freeway. I'm a lucky guy.
i have followed the rescue and restoration of this old metal planer since you first started, it's fantastic to see the machines that built the modern world being given a second chance...... great work Keith
Good to leave it as is: showing another stage of the machines life story for the generations to come !
Nice work Keith. The original crack looks a lot like a stress-riser off the keyway
Absolutely brilliant with those rings! I wouldn't have trusted a repair on a part Like that with a break like that. Another trick in my bag thanks to an experienced man. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing! I just love someone trying to tell how to do a job, I know I don’t know everything but every time I have made a mistake it was because I let someone talk me into doing something “the better way” !
Hi Keith, you can use a needle gun to stimple the brazing to match the cast iron, once painted it's very hard to tell
Stipple + Dimple = Stimple? 😁
In 1972 I was running a Gray closed side planer
for Waner&Swasey . One of the jobs I did did was planning old turret lathe beds for fitting hardened way strips . Before I could start I had to put in new roller bearing races .
The first thing I did was put the races in the freezer to get them cold to shrink them to put them in the headstock.
Then I made my setup.
By then they were cold enough put in. If you got them perfectly straight and not waste too much time they would slip right to the back of the bore .
With in about 5 seconds they would lock solid.
I saw one of these machines completed and you couldn't tell the difference from a brand new machine. The strips were held on by brake off screws.
Hi Keith,
How about using some JB Weld to fill those voids. Could even use some auto body putty if you want the sanding easier. You all stay safe.
I agree. Fill those voids if for nothing more than the aesthetics... I mean, look at all the other aesthetic details that have already been done.
The fact that I was thinking zipties reminds me how little I know about metal working.
Don, my thought was to use bondo and paint. Great minds....
@@MikeWest_W Laughing out loud!
Would have never thought about adding the retaining rings to secure the repair - excellent example of craftsmanship. I agree with several other commenters - fill the voids with body putty, sand it down and then repaint. So many other details have been meticulously done on this machine...it doesn't make sense to leave the voids since it's such an easy aesthetic problem to solve. I'd knock it out if I were you.
Probably stronger now than it was originally without the crack and oil intrusion. Nice job. Filling the gap won't improve performance but would drive me nuts to leave it unfilled.
Totally agree many a brazing job if it fails again it’s always in the surrounding material. Never seen the braze it’s self fail. Besides if cleaned up properly once the brazing process is complete it’s a nice looking repair.
🇺🇸🦅🌏⚓️🇺🇸
Is the brazed area stronger, or was the integrity of the surrounding material weakened when the part was brazed? This is a genuine question. I don't know the answer. I do know that when some metals are welded, that the crystalline structure of the surrounding metal is changed causing it to become brittle and weak. I did some brazing in college, but that was many years ago and that's pretty much the extent of my brazing experience. This is just a question that came to me as I read your comment.
@@buckinthetree1233 Brazing does raise the temperature to the fusing point of the iron. Therefore no brittle carbides are produced.
@@boldford I appreciate the information.
@@buckinthetree1233 That should have read "doesn't raise the temperature to the fusing point of the iron". Fat fingers!
@@boldford I was pretty sure that's what you meant judging by your sentence structure, and knowing that if it was at fusing temp., that it would raise the risk of compromising the surrounding material. I appreciate your clarification though.
So close to seeing chips being made on that beautiful machine now Keith. Great job!
Masterful thinking. Old school .
Nice work Keith... Have a good weekend...
Nice repair
I was taught to always apply a paste of flux in water to the joint before heating the part. As soon as you raise the part to red heat it is forming surface oxides and eliminating some of the joint preparation you did. Flux stops that oxidation.
Just adding flux to the rod means that the flux has to flow into the joint and remove the oxide that heating is creating.
Spot on advice Paul G. Brazing always must use a flux to chemically control surface oxides formed by the heating. Keith made no mention of fluxes as he used flux coated brazing rods.
@@stevebliss3600 Yes , was aware he is using flux coated rods. In fact brazing is impossible without any flux. However, my point still stands, the flux on the rod does not get to the joint until after the area has been raised to red heat and the oxidation has already occurred.
I would blend in the braze voids with TIG to make it look like a complete fix and to provide some additional tie-in of the rings. Quick work and would look better.
I recommended those rings also, well done, looks well done
I've done lots of huge broken castings some veary large ones we added steel studs taped into the bevels groves and it's a must to add Borax flux Flux coated rod isn't enough .
Looking forward to this. Well done. Best wishes to you and your family
Outstanding work. Not only that, you give a lesson on the techniques!
From a functional point of veiw I am sure that is adequate. If it was my job I would have filled the void's on both sides just for the asthetic considerations. But it's Keith's job and his machine I am just grateful for his channel. :-)
May be he can fill the voids with some putty before the paint job
If you braze the voids just to fill them you also add over braze to points that will then have to be remachined, if it is just for aesthetics, body filler or JB-Weld would be the choice.
I kind of get the feeling that Keith's getting impatient to get this machine running!
When pre-heating the part prior to brazing, you said you don't have an oven in the shop. What about the heat treating oven you've shown us? Does it have a low enough temperature setting to be used for pre-heating parts before brazing? Is it large enough for this part?
Not large enough to fit the part with it clamped. You don't want to be fumbling around trying to get it clamped up after heating it.
I don't know the first thing about brazing, thanks for the info. I will say, you removed a lot more material prior to the braze than I thought you would. Thanks again.
Nice work, Keith. It is almost as if you have done this thing a time or two. ;)
Thanks to you and the other youtube machinists, I was inspired to purchase my own lathe recently and hope to one day achieve something with it. If nothing I can make pens ;)
thanks for the videos, have a good one.
Impressive practical repair. I've got to say I don't mind the voids, which help to tell the story of what happened to the part and how it was repaired.
Barrel hoops add a lot of strength
Thank you for video.
Good morning!
That's a brilliant repair Keith .
I like the ring reinforcement, clean and strong.
Very cool and awesome repair. I wouldn't have thought of the rings so I'm delighted to say I learned something. Thanks for sharing!
Very good repair on the shifting lever. When you think things through it comes out good.
nice job
Keith, I have a lot of experience when it comes to welding cast iron. I've done it all, and I can confidently say I know what I'm doing. With that in mind, I braze everything I can. Why? Because it works, and it's easier. And if the part serves it's purpose, that's the whole point. Most people I see that scoff at brazing either haven't done it, or base their opinion on an improper brazing job.
Would you advise brazing when repairing cracks on old antique tractor cylinder heads? I like my allis chalmers tractors, but it seems when ever I tear one apart for a rebuild I have a cracked head to deal with. Any advise on repairing cylinder head cracks on gas tractors?
I love using Muggyweld to do my brazing. I just like how arch brazing melts right in after a good preheat it's just so much faster and barely runs. Great for layering.
I started brazing bicycle frames when I was 12. Not perfect at first, but you learn. Since then, I've brazed many, many items, mostly CI, and I can't remember a repair that broke unless it was sketchy to begin with. I'd never weld CI, it just causes problems. Great repair; not the prettiest, but like others have said, that's what bondo is for.
You are making me feel more comfortable to braze I have a missing tooth on back gears and putting off trying to fix it. I'm getting alot less afraid of doing it now . Thanks as always awesome job !!
Nice repair Keith. I have brazed several similar parts and had great out comes. Flame brazing is the way to go.
It's impressive how much was cut after the ring cooled down!
I can't imagine how the millions of repairs in the past were successfully done without the new techniques.
My buddy Tom taught me to file all the ground surfaces after grinding the prep. The filed surface wets much better.
I like the shrunk on reinforcement rings.Great idea.With a little paint,it will be barely noticeable.
Nice repair and totally agree about brazing. And at worst, if you are really worried about the holes in the braze, you could always add an apoxy filler before painting.
The technique that Keith used on the collars is almost identical to the method used on steam locomotive to install the outer replaceable section of the driven wheels.
Known as "tires".
@@bb_37 this is correct, but I was trying not to confuse people with information overload.
Also putting the steel tire on a wooden wagon wheel.
@@july8xx this is true. I've seen that done as well.
Thanks Keith.
I know a lot of other people have said it, but I agree. You should use some body filter, or JB to clean that up.
Another very satisfying viewing!
very cool, if youre going to paint it, you could use bondo or something to fill the gaps to and have a smooth finish
Thank you for sharing. Nice repair. Enjoyed.
Nice!
"We" broke this piece ?? Love ya man !
Great repair Keith!!! .. could not have done better myself!
Edit: I particularly like the shrink fit rings on there ..
Oh come on Keith, we all know your going to fill in them little bits, they will be starring at you every time you use the machine, good video, thanks for sharing, can’t wait to see the planer do it’s thing.regards from the UK
I agree to leave well enough alone and not add any more braze. Other's suggestions of JB weld is perfect.
Don't forget to make the two studs for the nuts that secure the tilt on the clapper.
Yes it is amazing it how steel will grow when it gets warm, I worked with a gentleman who used to lay out bridge beams before he moved the company that we work together at. He said that he would have to lay them out very early in the morning or even at night because the sun would cause the beams to curve from one side to the other based on where the sun was hitting them and it would cause his measurements to be off. This is also why on steel structures you have expansion joints I myself have seen the steel beams grow up to quarter-inch because of the Sun
Popular Mechanics, the magazine, I believe did a story of putting in place the last piece of the Gateway Arch in St Louis. Now also on RUclips. The operation was done as early as possible in the morning with the sun up heating both left and right sides of the Arch and the Fire department spraying water on the side toward the sun of the Arch to get the whole Arch the same temperature to fit the bolts in of the last piece to the Arch to which made the two sides one continuous structure.ruclips.net/video/41lMeWCVZ6I/видео.html
The heating of the rings is right in line in what we would do to put bearings on shafts in radial aircraft engines. Only difference is we heated them in an oil bath take them out and drop on the shaft. Very rarely had to tap them with a small hammer once or twice to get them to seat all the way.
I prefer brazing also. I've had good luck and I like the finished appearance of the braze material.
Very interested in your comments on nickel welding. I just had to braze the end bracket of the x axis of my mill which some one had repaired with nickel arc weld. It was soon plain that no preparation had been done, the weld looked like pigeon droppings, and when the heat got on it it was so porous the oil and grime oozed out. I had to grind all the nickel away before I could braze.
Keith, bodywork repair shops will give you a bit of bond adhesive to fill up these areas, and then later you can apply paint
I've seen a lot of the RUclips machinists do silicon bronze repairs on cast iron. I see the build up process they use on the external surfaces. Is there any tendency for the bronze to "wick" into the original mating surfaces like solder does on copper? Or is it more like using a hot glue stick on cardboard? Just curious.
It “wicks” into the cast structure and adheres to it just like solder would. That is the importance of heating the base metal high enough to melt the bronze on contact with it. Melting the rod with the torch and dripping it into the joint makes for a weak joint. I have seen repaired parts that were struck again break at a different point and the brazed joint held.
Good morning from SE Louisiana 27 Aug 21.
When preheating larger pieces for brazing I use a tiger torch just to get the piece good and hot. It takes a lot less oxy- Accetelin to get it up to brazing temperature.
Hiya Keith
Rule of thumb for thermal expansion (linear) of iron and steel: about 1 thou per inch per 100 degrees C (or 200 degrees F). Stainless steel, brass, bronze and copper all about 1.6.to 1.8 thou per inch per 100C.
There is a very similar process to shrinking the rings on sailboats back when they were all built out of wood. It was not uncommon for the mast to crack vertically but not catastrophically. They would wrap very heavy rope around the mast and tighten it with water and leverage. The process is called gammoning
It reminds me of the old company where I was. One of them had an accident with the one year old CNC lathe. The cast slide broke and the revolver sits on it. The delivery time for the spare part from Japan was 9 to 12 months, but urgent production was waiting. That's why the boss had the cast component brazing. A specialist company did it, and it was certainly expensive. After half a year, the new cast slide came from the manufacturer. Then the machine was taken apart again. The boss had to pay again. The employee waived his bonus this year but was not fired. But he had become very careful.
I was taught torch valve down, far easier to adjust the flame and safer as far as where the flame is when adjusting it. My input from B&S apprenticeship.
I learned that from experience after finding my welding glove cuff would occasionally rub on the valve knobs, changing the flow of gas during my welding or brazing. Most annoying.
What size tip are you using?
If it works keep doing it…
Good attitude although some would argue that newer is better and such.
The brazed part has been repaired using a belt and suspenders approach and will be good for a very long time.
Wonder if it would have been suffice to just clamp it all back together with the shrink rings?
No, the shrink rings would quickly fail under torque and stress without the additional strength of the brazed joints. With the rings and brazing it’s a very good repair.
@@ellieprice363 explanation rather than a very impolite no please
I have to agree that those voids look bad, but I also agree that heating the whole thing, rings and all, might not be the best idea. Maybe a little J-B Weld would do the trick?
I was thinking that too! Almost totally cosmetic (but ads a *little* strength). I like to make repairs look good. Just years of habit... ;)
Was thinking the same maybe even just some body filler, I have found that used to clean up castings in the past and easy to sand down
@@gagasmancave8859 Body Filler is the normal thing found on Bridgeports and other high end machines....
J-B Weld (metal loaded epoxy), sanding, and paint will make it look "purty". The part easily should be stronger than when it was originally cast. The tensile strength and shock resistance of bronze is greater than that of cast iron and those steel rings, most definitely, help.
"Stuff" always happens. :>( It's what you do, when things take a turn for the worse, that matters. Excellent fix, Keith.
@@eliduttman315 We had a handle on a milling vise tha t was brazed 30 years ago [probably a 70 year old vise, shop opened in 1920] and took one heck of a beating....never any issues day in and day out......made me a believer in brazing......if done right......
Some Bondo or jb weld could fill those voids and be easy to shape.
We’re getting close now to that first cut! 🤫
One step closer to the final video of it running.
I like the repair. May I send you all my broken cast iron pans?
So close! (Knew you didn’t break it.). I’m wondering if you will be able to keep from rebrazing the rough spots. We’ll see. Thanks for the video.
Could you use a hot plate to keep the heat in the part while welding?
When it's painted you won't even look at it, great repair.
Looks great, I'd be surprised if this repair doesn't outlive you.
The only way I know how to braze with a torch. That's the way I was taught from my father and my grandfather
I envy you, I couldn't live with myself leaving those brazing holes behind, the sight of them would haunt me for months.
I assume you save a lot of time with these kind of jobs.
Keith, for those that don't know, brazing is perfectly fine on cast iron, or even for bonding steel to cast iron. However, when it comes to steel, it does not penetrate the metal, but is basically a coating. Welding on the other hand, actually bonds and penetrates into the base metal, and is much preferred. Light gauge metals that are exposed to the elements, such as exhaust pipe are at higher risk of failure in the future if brazed. I know that there's a certain sense of satisfaction with either, but welding steel is the most desirable.
It would look better if filled all the way but goodness this will be twice as strong as before. I think the force came from the internal key before now it will shear the key off if it stalls.
Been a long road to make chips on this one. Can't wait. =)
Get a new one casted .Best choice
Does it need to be cast or could it be milled from steel plate.
What do you use for the brazing rod ? Thanks for another awesome video.
Interesting that the cracks propagated from the top of the keyway. Looks like the corners were the weakest points, and both failed.
Torch TIP size?
Probably should have remade the piece instead but kudos on the sleeves since they'll act like a tire on a locomotive driving wheels. Since their already there might as well fill in the deficits with some molten brass etc since it will add strength as well.
Curious do you scan such a part in for archival purposes?
Would it be safer to keep the key out and use grub/set screw instead?
If it happens again maybe then it just twists on the shaft and does not get broken. It does not look like it needs the key to transfer torque, especially if it can be operated by hand already...
I cannot make that call of course, I cannot see for sure if it slipping on the shaft would save it or not next time.
Cheers,
I have a Chas Parker vise that's broken on the fixed jaw side at and off the Base. Would this method be a durable fix?
There have been many vises repaired with the brazing technique. Collectors won’t buy a brazed vise, but a vise repaired with bronze braze will work just fine.
@@ronaldhorne5106 Don't want to sell it just want to use it.
Keith, thank you. I'm a machinist myself most of the time and I agree this is a functional repair. But, it seams you're in a kind of rush to get this *!?% planer out of your system which I can understand. This is not only about a machine in your workshop but the whole world is watching too. For me it would add extra pressure which I have enough already for my daytime job and that's the main reason I don't have a RUclips channel. But thankfully you do and I like to watch it! Back to the topic; with some small extra time and dedication this part would not only be repaired well but look nice too. For me that's additional satisfaction on getting the job done. I would rather see you spending two videos on this repair and fillet braze and file and sand it all to perfection. I'm just puzzling here about the repair and the final result in combination with maximum satisfaction on the job done and a final result which makes you smile years later. Maybe some food for thought. Rough jobs are common, bling results are rare. Thank you Keith! Looking forward to see some planer chips coming! Best, Job