On the last episode you mentioned that there are supposed to be catch basins for excess oil at the end of the table. If those were by chance made out of brass with removable toggling lids, I think I have them for you. Been sitting dusty in my marine/machine shop as long as I can remember. They have three spigots or raised bosses in each that would presumably be the oil return, leaving the rest of the space for chips and trash to settle out
Yupp machines that made America the industrial leaders of the World. She looks great Keith you must be congratulated on a super well done job. Many of us wish we could do it too.
Keith you have made a brilliant job of restoring the New Haven Metal Planer. It has been a fascinating journey watching you bring this venerable old machine back to life, and now it will be used for many years to come and will certainly outlast many of us, myself included!
I love watching this video. My mothers family had a large machine shop in New Haven, Conn, MacKenzie Machine and Marine, that was in business there for over 120 years and owned by family members all that time. The shop specialized in jobs that were too big and awkward for any one else. As a child, I am 78, I can remember seeing machines like this in the shop.
Have been following the 'Metal Planer Restoration' from the word go. The encyclopaedic knowledge stored in Keith's head which is then used and reproduced in the physical restoration is quite extraordinary. I admire and salute a true craftsman. Thank you Keith. You have made an old 'machinist' very happy - and a little bit envious!! Bill B, Cheltenham UK.
Keith, for those that don't know, the reason that your mic picks up your breathing or other background noises is due to AGC. Automatic Gain Control. Professional mic mixers don't utilize this for video or audio recording. That's the job of the audio engineer, to a certain extent, if it's supposed to be recorded or eliminated.
Keith, I use a dollar store electric carving knife to cut foam felt and the like. I have found that it works a treat. It's one of those things that once you have it you use it more than you thought you would.
12:53 You might want to check and see if your camera has a setting called "AGC" or automatic gain control under the microphone settings. Try turning that off. The AGC will automatically bump up the microphone level when things are quiet and automatically turn it down when things are too loud. That will prevent it amplifing your breathing during quiet takes. But the flipside is you may have to fiddle more with the volume controls during loud segments. Adds a bit more time to editing to get the audio a consistent level.
So happy to see the ole machine running. In my experience the felts should be pulled at every machine cleanup. They can pickup small pieces of material under them. Good job Keith
Some good rubber gloves might help do a felt wiper cleaning! In my experience some oily chips seem to be small enough and sharp enough to get under my skin if a part isn't handled correctly. Could you see some kind of an oil cascade to wash away chips from the wipers when getting ready for the next run?
As usual I really enjoyed seeing your work. However maybe some time in a future video you could address your process for choosing bead blasting as opposed to Evaporust and vise versa. This might be obvious to metal workers but I am just an old wood butcher with very limited experience in such things.
Keith, Have you ever discussed the factory accuracy test on these machines? I think it would be an interesting video to talk about the original designed accuracy of this AMAZINGLY RESTORED planer. What where the original testing methods, and the instruments used when the machine was manufactured? What were the original standards and specifications? Repeat the testing today and compare.
Great restoration Keith ,could you possibly make a hinged flap over your wiper with a oil spigot to help keep the shavings and other trash out of the wipers/ just a thought. Always enjoy your Videos!
Hey Keith, it just hit me. You are probably the expert we need in the field of nameplate and data plate removal. What's the chance you could go over how to successfully remove plates and tags that are fastened with drive screws? I've done several in the last few months but 1 out of 6 or so end up with damage to the tag. The aluminum Rockwell tags seem to be the easiest to damage. And you can't tig weld to the screw without melting the lettering. Any advice would help the community who loves nice old iron.
Looks like you need a couple of shims on your lower drive shaft as I can see the whole shaft moving back and forth when it reverses looks like an 1/8" or more.
Keith, do you have plans to add a loose pulley to the drive motor set up to be able to stop the machine faster? The original would have had a loose/tight pulley on the line shaft for that, when you hit the motor stop it looked like the table took quite a while to coast to a stop.
Let it be known you have a bead blaster and you will have more friends that you can afford. Seams everyone has at least a dozen parts/gadgets that "need" to be bead blasted. I once had a guy "friend" back a pickup loaded with parts he wanted to bead blasted in my shop (for free of course). If I were to charge to bead blast parts it would be at a rate of $100 per hour at least. That will help people decide if it really necessary. ("friends" included)
Love that machine. Really nice job on it. One recommendation, leave the table covering the ways to protect them from things being dropped on them or the build up of dirt and dust that can cause additional wear.
They make razor style scroll saw blades that are the nuts for cutting fibrous material cuts through felt, rubber and just about anything else you can cut with a razor blade.
Keith, looking at the felts in the cups, I see no way,. NO PUN intended, that the felts are kept tight against the ways with wear. I had a idea to keep them pushed down against the ways so that no chips could get under them. If you would take and make a small metal plate to cover the felts leaving room for oiling. Weld a 90 deg piece of metal on the end of the cups and have a thumb screw that can be used to push constant pressure on the felts. Just a idea.
on the table between the wipers there's two rectangle bar things looks they was cut off or Brocken off some ware in its life are they where the casting tubes or would have been or would have been an old lifting point for the table
Can never be said enough but thanks for the effort you have put in on restoring the planer and bringing us along. Noticed the 'hardware store' bolts are still on the clapper box. Do you still have plans to make a couple of fasteners with more period correct heads similar to the to other fasteners?
We used to use same kind. Idk if that thing gets the same use as a manufacturing facility but if ur using it a lot and it is ruining ur window, we used to use this thick clear plastic on the inside...just poke holes or whatever u have to to mount it and change it when it gets bad. Looks like u restore a lot so I'm betting if u haven't you will.
Hey Keith! IF it is not TOO late....Please, oh PLEASE....Take the time to document the design of those way wiper boxes! Possibly go as far as having 3D casting patterns made for FUTURE possibilities of someone else needing replacement wipers!!! Just a thought. In regard to possible "first projects"....does any of your acquaintances have an old OBI press in need of a 'new' base plate? Seems like this might be just the machine for truing up a 4 to 8 inch thick steel platen! Ken
It always gives me a little chuckle when you, known for working with tolerances of 1 thou, pull out a pen that makes a line 1/16th of an inch. Very nice restoration. Love all of the old machines in your shop.
Hi Keith, glad to see this machine working again. Just wondering what the large metal cube with round holes on all sides on the bench is. Did I miss a video?
I was thinking about manufacturing process of this planer. Does anyone know if they used the planer head to cut the ways for each machine they built. I believe when lathes were built they machined the tail stick with the headstock for that lathe.
Is it possible to make the belts not move so much from side to side? When it is out on the idlers it almost goes outside of the pulley. Half the stroke would be enough.
looks like the 1970's model Trinco we had. It ran 8 hours a day 4 days a week or until sooner if needed It was the final step in our post heat treat OD grind of a Stanley Bostitch nailer part N2187
@@millomweb ...If it was up to you, the weight of oil saturated felt would be enough to hold it down. Load up the gear train with grease to add a pound or so to the table as ballast and all he will need is a wad of "pig mats" on the floor.
In addition to glass beading ground cast iron, another trick to hiding repairs is to sprinkle some glass bead on the first coat of wet paint. After a second coat it looks just like an unmolested sand cast surface.
Another trick is using something like 60-80 grit sandpaper, placing it over the area and hammering it. This imparts the texture of the sandpaper into the metal.
Keith, about the microphone: maybe you can adjust the gain settings to keep the gain fixed or at least limit the maximum gain of the AGC, so that it does not pick up things like breathing or just plain noise...
I think almost all the noise is coming from the gears, so it will most likely never get less noisy unless Keith fabricates new gears with tighter tolerances...
Have you considered applying a high tack grease to the bevel drive gear and rack under the planer to possibly reduce the gear noise? Thanks for another excellent video Keith.
I keep telling him but getting nowhere ;) It is far noisier than it should be ! Could possibly be a bearing too on one of the shafts. Keithe doesn't oil much - I now claim he's allergic to lubricating machines - after all what he said, did he oil the new felts - NO ! Say no more :)
@@millomweb , so, you are ignorant enough that you think Keith does everything on camera? I'm not interested in watching oil soak into felt. Maybe that is all you have to do, but it seems less interesting than watching paint dry.
On the gear noise, I dont recall him addressing the possibility of some wear on the gears. In my mechanical experience, thicker oil and or heavy grease doesn't do much if anything to quiet gear noise at operating temp. Those being straight cut cast iron rack and pinion gears in open atmosphere with a couple decades of use in its heyday have probably increased the noise some but not very much.
@@MrChevelle83 It's not easy to say the source of the noise but I don'tthink it's the actual gears as it soulds too fast - like a dry ball race more like.
Question for you, Keith. I know you're set up for glass beads in the blaster. Do you see much erosion of the metal with the glass? I work in an aircraft maintenance hangar and we use plastic beads because glass does too much damage to aluminum. Probably wouldn't do much to the magnesium wheels, but if one media works on both, no need to have multiple media blasters, plus it eliminates contamination of the media. I know cast iron is tougher than aluminum but it's not steel, which would stand up to glass much better. Just curious to know how the cast iron holds up.
@@bruceanderson9461 Thanks for that. I had posted my comment before finishing the video. Keith kind of answered my question after he did the brazing and pointed out that he used the blaster to put the texture into the iron. Thanks again.
@@michaelscott8226 thin metal sheets tend to warp pretty badly when they get blasted with sand or glass beads, I think that is the reason why they use plastic beads. I once blasted a sheet of brass with glass beads, it got bent in all directions... I think the glass beads basically forge the material, it doesn't matter with thick material, it even hardens the surface, but thin material warps...
@@Henning_S. Warpage can be a problem in thin flat materials. It can be minimized by lowering the pressure and blasting at an angle to the material as opposed to blasting perpendicular to the metal. A pressurized tank blaster as opposed to a siphon blaster will give you much more control of the pressure. Glass beads will not warp metal near as much as sand or other more aggressive media. Plastic media conversely is less likely to cause warpage. Curved sheet metal such as a fender is much less prone to warpage as let’s say a flat panel on a hood or it’s louvers.
@@Henning_S. Yeah, I've seen the same thing, although I meant to refer to larger, heavier pieces. Aluminum, and its alloys, doesn't hold up well to impacts well. The glass beads don't deform much on impact so the energy goes into the metal, causing a small dent. Cause enough of them and the metal gets brittle and starts to flake away. With the plastic beads, they have some give and tend to affect the softer materials on the metal
Nice restore of the way wipers - some things just need a little love. That planer sounds better every time you run it. Is the return cycle a little noisy or is that normal?
The noise is coming from the bull gear and the rack, it is just noisier on the return because of the higher speed. It is more or less normal with this large gears when they are worn down because they have lots of play between the gear teeth
Straight cut gears are always noisy. Older cars used to have a straight cut reverse gear, and when you engaged reverse, you would always hear the whine of that straight cut gear, and that's with it encased inside a transmission housing. The remaining gears in the trans weren't straight cut, and that's why they were much quieter. Another example is to think of a straight knife wood planer as a straight cut gear. If you compare a straight knife wood planer to a Shelix cutter head (which has a helical cutting edges) you'll notice the helical cutter head is much more quiet.
Originally it would have had a loose/tight pulley system on the belt drive to the line shaft with a lever to kick it in and out of gear. I don't think Keith took that into account when doing the electric conversion. Now it only has the motors off button to stop it without trying to grab the shifter in mid range to put the main belts into neutral.
I recommend way covers that reach over the exposed part of the ways, especially if any grinding or welding or anything dusty or smoky takes place in any part of the shop
@@davidhtims the chips aren't much of a concern anyway, welding and grinding dust will land on every uncovered surface and it'll basically form lapping compound with the oil
@@MF175mp Bingo, I only do grinding and cutting in one part of my shop which is 36x48 with 12ft high walls, but that dust settles everywhere. My shop is dry-walled and you can basically see where every dry-wall screw is from the light magnetism in the screws.
I have the ways of my lathe always covered with thin plastic foil to protect them from dust. Of course you can also clean them before every use, but covering them is easier.
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On the last episode you mentioned that there are supposed to be catch basins for excess oil at the end of the table. If those were by chance made out of brass with removable toggling lids, I think I have them for you. Been sitting dusty in my marine/machine shop as long as I can remember. They have three spigots or raised bosses in each that would presumably be the oil return, leaving the rest of the space for chips and trash to settle out
Yupp machines that made America the industrial leaders of the World. She looks great Keith you must be congratulated on a super well done job.
Many of us wish we could do it too.
Keith you have made a brilliant job of restoring the New Haven Metal Planer. It has been a fascinating journey watching you bring this venerable old machine back to life, and now it will be used for many years to come and will certainly outlast many of us, myself included!
It is great to see an old machine running again. New life for another 100 years!
Congratz on 200k Keith !
I love watching this video. My mothers family had a large machine shop in New Haven, Conn, MacKenzie Machine and Marine, that was in business there for over 120 years and owned by family members all that time. The shop specialized in jobs that were too big and awkward for any one else. As a child, I am 78, I can remember seeing machines like this in the shop.
Love the old machines
Congratulations on 200,000 subscribers!
200k subscribers - congratulation Keith! Thanks for the video.
Have been following the 'Metal Planer Restoration' from the word go. The encyclopaedic knowledge stored in Keith's head which is then used and reproduced in the physical restoration is quite extraordinary. I admire and salute a true craftsman. Thank you Keith. You have made an old 'machinist' very happy - and a little bit envious!! Bill B, Cheltenham UK.
Who else was waiting for the Hand Tool Rescue type head thump on the blasting cabinet?
Keith, for those that don't know, the reason that your mic picks up your breathing or other background noises is due to AGC. Automatic Gain Control. Professional mic mixers don't utilize this for video or audio recording. That's the job of the audio engineer, to a certain extent, if it's supposed to be recorded or eliminated.
I love the sound of the gear train.
Keith, I use a dollar store electric carving knife to cut foam felt and the like. I have found that it works a treat. It's one of those things that once you have it you use it more than you thought you would.
awesome! convertin that blaster to a grill!! thanks for showing it!
Fun to watch. I ran a planer for awhile
Nice follow up on the wipers. Thanks for the video.
Nice job on this project. Watched all the vids. Thank You.
Congrats on passing 200k subs
Keith every time I see this planner in action I am impressed. I’ll be waiting for your next video.
That is such an awesome machine you resurrected with such care. Really looking forward to seeing you dial it in. It could have its own channel.
good job keith
I’m sorry to have been a part of pointing out the breathing thing. You’re awesome Keith
Nice job Keith
Fabulous, Keith. I know you have to be absolutely thrilled to have that thing running so well and finished so beautifully.
12:53 You might want to check and see if your camera has a setting called "AGC" or automatic gain control under the microphone settings. Try turning that off. The AGC will automatically bump up the microphone level when things are quiet and automatically turn it down when things are too loud. That will prevent it amplifing your breathing during quiet takes. But the flipside is you may have to fiddle more with the volume controls during loud segments. Adds a bit more time to editing to get the audio a consistent level.
So happy to see the ole machine running. In my experience the felts should be pulled at every machine cleanup. They can pickup small pieces of material under them.
Good job Keith
Some good rubber gloves might help do a felt wiper cleaning! In my experience some oily chips seem to be small enough and sharp enough to get under my skin if a part isn't handled correctly. Could you see some kind of an oil cascade to wash away chips from the wipers when getting ready for the next run?
Best way to start Friday
Certainly a great job of saving an old machine. Congratulations.
Thanks for sharing! Looks great!
I find that hard felt cuts well on my bandsaw. You get a very slight amount of feathering, but it’s easy and very quick.
I was just going to say the same thing.
@@dreadnaught2707 you know-great minds…
Great to see you taking so much care to get it all done and not do a rush job on it.
Beautiful machine, I could watch it all day, sort of soothing! I love how you can see the inner workings, the simplicity and inginuity.
As usual I really enjoyed seeing your work. However maybe some time in a future video you could address your process for choosing bead blasting as opposed to Evaporust and vise versa. This might be obvious to metal workers but I am just an old wood butcher with very limited experience in such things.
Cleverly designed for its time.
Keith, Have you ever discussed the factory accuracy test on these machines? I think it would be an interesting video to talk about the original designed accuracy of this AMAZINGLY RESTORED planer. What where the original testing methods, and the instruments used when the machine was manufactured? What were the original standards and specifications? Repeat the testing today and compare.
Thank you for sharing. Great repair, love watching that machine work with the belts moving back and forth.
I can see that you are super excited
Fantastic restoration great job. I see forward for the first project with Metal planer.
OUTSTANDING, and I like the sound of the gears meshing and the slapping of the belts🤗😎🤗😎
Looks great, sounds good, beautyfull resoration. Love watching your videos!
Most excellent.
Great Machine!
I see you have hit 200K subscribers!
Good, the small things count a lot always. Thanks
Great restoration Keith ,could you possibly make a hinged flap over your wiper with a oil spigot to help keep the shavings and other trash out of the wipers/ just a thought. Always enjoy your Videos!
Tip: Electric carving knife works great on cutting that felt and also on upholster foam.
Great video Keith, keep'um coming.
Hey Keith,
it just hit me. You are probably the expert we need in the field of nameplate and data plate removal.
What's the chance you could go over how to successfully remove plates and tags that are fastened with drive screws?
I've done several in the last few months but 1 out of 6 or so end up with damage to the tag. The aluminum Rockwell tags seem to be the easiest to damage. And you can't tig weld to the screw without melting the lettering. Any advice would help the community who loves nice old iron.
Was that a helper kitty at 9:54 trying to get up onto the table?
Looks like you need a couple of shims on your lower drive shaft as I can see the whole shaft moving back and forth when it reverses looks like an 1/8" or more.
Howdy Brian, You have a good eye mate.
Hard and Nasty was the name of my high school band.
Good name! Guess it covered the load?
Very nice. Lovely work on the metal planer! :)
Keith, do you have plans to add a loose pulley to the drive motor set up to be able to stop the machine faster? The original would have had a loose/tight pulley on the line shaft for that, when you hit the motor stop it looked like the table took quite a while to coast to a stop.
It's always good to have a wiper on the backside too.
Let it be known you have a bead blaster and you will have more friends that you can afford. Seams everyone has at least a dozen parts/gadgets that "need" to be bead blasted. I once had a guy "friend" back a pickup loaded with parts he wanted to bead blasted in my shop (for free of course). If I were to charge to bead blast parts it would be at a rate of $100 per hour at least. That will help people decide if it really necessary. ("friends" included)
Way cool Keith!
Impressive
Love that machine. Really nice job on it. One recommendation, leave the table covering the ways to protect them from things being dropped on them or the build up of dirt and dust that can cause additional wear.
That's actually not possible as the V ways are far longer than the table ! He could maake covers for them !
@@millomweb Ha, Forgot about the rest of the bed that out the back.
Nice, I've never seen a flip-top blaster before.
They make razor style scroll saw blades that are the nuts for cutting fibrous material cuts through felt, rubber and just about anything else you can cut with a razor blade.
Keith, looking at the felts in the cups, I see no way,. NO PUN intended, that the felts are kept tight against the ways with wear. I had a idea to keep them pushed down against the ways so that no chips could get under them. If you would take and make a small metal plate to cover the felts leaving room for oiling. Weld a 90 deg piece of metal on the end of the cups and have a thumb screw that can be used to push constant pressure on the felts. Just a idea.
on the table between the wipers there's two rectangle bar things looks they was cut off or Brocken off some ware in its life are they where the casting tubes or would have been or would have been an old lifting point for the table
Using the razor like you were doing gave me the willies
Can never be said enough but thanks for the effort you have put in on restoring the planer and bringing us along. Noticed the 'hardware store' bolts are still on the clapper box. Do you still have plans to make a couple of fasteners with more period correct heads similar to the to other fasteners?
We used to use same kind. Idk if that thing gets the same use as a manufacturing facility but if ur using it a lot and it is ruining ur window, we used to use this thick clear plastic on the inside...just poke holes or whatever u have to to mount it and change it when it gets bad. Looks like u restore a lot so I'm betting if u haven't you will.
You can see how those 2 got broken- bolts work loose and finally bracket hangs down far enough to catch the bed on the return stroke.
My real name is Michael McCluskey. I've been subscribed to your channel for a long time. Mostly since I saw your videos at the train station
Hey Keith!
IF it is not TOO late....Please, oh PLEASE....Take the time to document the design of those way wiper boxes! Possibly go as far as having 3D casting patterns made for FUTURE possibilities of someone else needing replacement wipers!!!
Just a thought.
In regard to possible "first projects"....does any of your acquaintances have an old OBI press in need of a 'new' base plate? Seems like this might be just the machine for truing up a 4 to 8 inch thick steel platen!
Ken
Top Shelf Keith
Great Job, as always..
It always gives me a little chuckle when you, known for working with tolerances of 1 thou, pull out a pen that makes a line 1/16th of an inch. Very nice restoration. Love all of the old machines in your shop.
Measure with a Micrometer - Mark with Chalk, and Cut with an Axe........
Hi Keith, glad to see this machine working again. Just wondering what the large metal cube with round holes on all sides on the bench is. Did I miss a video?
Keith, do still have to plain the top of waytabel?
Hiya Keith
I was thinking about manufacturing process of this planer. Does anyone know if they used the planer head to cut the ways for each machine they built. I believe when lathes were built they machined the tail stick with the headstock for that lathe.
Do you use serrated blades in your snap-off knife?
Is it possible to make the belts not move so much from side to side? When it is out on the idlers it almost goes outside of the pulley. Half the stroke would be enough.
At least shorten up the stroke an inch.
what type of tig welder do you have
Just out of curiosity....how accurate is a planner like this...can you get a set of bed ways down to a few tenths...??
looks like the 1970's model Trinco we had. It ran 8 hours a day 4 days a week or until sooner if needed It was the final step in our post heat treat OD grind of a Stanley Bostitch nailer part N2187
A spring on the mounting holes pressing on the felt might improve the wiper.
There doesn't appear to be anything above the felt holding it down pressed against the V ways ????
@@millomweb ...If it was up to you, the weight of oil saturated felt would be enough to hold it down. Load up the gear train with grease to add a pound or so to the table as ballast and all he will need is a wad of "pig mats" on the floor.
@@paulcopeland9035 awesome reply sir !
In addition to glass beading ground cast iron, another trick to hiding repairs is to sprinkle some glass bead on the first coat of wet paint. After a second coat it looks just like an unmolested sand cast surface.
Another trick is using something like 60-80 grit sandpaper, placing it over the area and hammering it. This imparts the texture of the sandpaper into the metal.
Can your Hot Shot oven be set to a low enough temp to preheat small parts like this?
Keith, about the microphone: maybe you can adjust the gain settings to keep the gain fixed or at least limit the maximum gain of the AGC, so that it does not pick up things like breathing or just plain noise...
I didn’t realize that you could heat material with a TIG torch and not melt it. Cool!
Looking good, sounds better after the belts have run for awhile.
I think almost all the noise is coming from the gears, so it will most likely never get less noisy unless Keith fabricates new gears with tighter tolerances...
The belt-shift mechanism seems to work amazingly well, that's a WILD thing to watch.
You really know your "way" around this restoration... :-)
Very cool! You gotta be careful you pecker is a safe place when the belt switches sides, though.
You could add a simple triangular rubber wiper in front of the felt boxes to push chips away better or hide them behind the wiper boxes loke a gasket.
Have you considered applying a high tack grease to the bevel drive gear and rack under the planer to possibly reduce the gear noise? Thanks for another excellent video Keith.
I keep telling him but getting nowhere ;) It is far noisier than it should be ! Could possibly be a bearing too on one of the shafts. Keithe doesn't oil much - I now claim he's allergic to lubricating machines - after all what he said, did he oil the new felts - NO ! Say no more :)
@@millomweb , so, you are ignorant enough that you think Keith does everything on camera?
I'm not interested in watching oil soak into felt.
Maybe that is all you have to do, but it seems less interesting than watching paint dry.
On the gear noise, I dont recall him addressing the possibility of some wear on the gears. In my mechanical experience, thicker oil and or heavy grease doesn't do much if anything to quiet gear noise at operating temp. Those being straight cut cast iron rack and pinion gears in open atmosphere with a couple decades of use in its heyday have probably increased the noise some but not very much.
@@haroldphipps3457 Well, they certainly didn't look oiled!
@@MrChevelle83 It's not easy to say the source of the noise but I don'tthink it's the actual gears as it soulds too fast - like a dry ball race more like.
Which felt did you use, F1? Did you saturated the felt with way lube after you installed them?
Keith: Nice job on the planer. What's the progress on the steam stoker engine? I haven't heard in a long time. Thanks. Jon
I wish I got $5.00 every time someone randomly asks or comments on the stoker engine!
I could retire!!!!
Keith I think that ya should make some caps for the felt wipers ta bee the trash out of them. just a thought
I think I hear rain and thunder in the background. I live in the desert. leave the sound turned up,
Question for you, Keith. I know you're set up for glass beads in the blaster. Do you see much erosion of the metal with the glass? I work in an aircraft maintenance hangar and we use plastic beads because glass does too much damage to aluminum. Probably wouldn't do much to the magnesium wheels, but if one media works on both, no need to have multiple media blasters, plus it eliminates contamination of the media. I know cast iron is tougher than aluminum but it's not steel, which would stand up to glass much better. Just curious to know how the cast iron holds up.
I have used glass beads for years and never noticed any deleterious effects on cast iron..
@@bruceanderson9461 Thanks for that. I had posted my comment before finishing the video. Keith kind of answered my question after he did the brazing and pointed out that he used the blaster to put the texture into the iron. Thanks again.
@@michaelscott8226 thin metal sheets tend to warp pretty badly when they get blasted with sand or glass beads, I think that is the reason why they use plastic beads.
I once blasted a sheet of brass with glass beads, it got bent in all directions... I think the glass beads basically forge the material, it doesn't matter with thick material, it even hardens the surface, but thin material warps...
@@Henning_S. Warpage can be a problem in thin flat materials. It can be minimized by lowering the pressure and blasting at an angle to the material as opposed to blasting perpendicular to the metal. A pressurized tank blaster as opposed to a siphon blaster will give you much more control of the pressure. Glass beads will not warp metal near as much as sand or other more aggressive media. Plastic media conversely is less likely to cause warpage. Curved sheet metal such as a fender is much less prone to warpage as let’s say a flat panel on a hood or it’s louvers.
@@Henning_S. Yeah, I've seen the same thing, although I meant to refer to larger, heavier pieces. Aluminum, and its alloys, doesn't hold up well to impacts well. The glass beads don't deform much on impact so the energy goes into the metal, causing a small dent. Cause enough of them and the metal gets brittle and starts to flake away. With the plastic beads, they have some give and tend to affect the softer materials on the metal
Nice restore of the way wipers - some things just need a little love. That planer sounds better every time you run it. Is the return cycle a little noisy or is that normal?
The noise is coming from the bull gear and the rack, it is just noisier on the return because of the higher speed.
It is more or less normal with this large gears when they are worn down because they have lots of play between the gear teeth
Straight cut gears are always noisy. Older cars used to have a straight cut reverse gear, and when you engaged reverse, you would always hear the whine of that straight cut gear, and that's with it encased inside a transmission housing. The remaining gears in the trans weren't straight cut, and that's why they were much quieter.
Another example is to think of a straight knife wood planer as a straight cut gear. If you compare a straight knife wood planer to a Shelix cutter head (which has a helical cutting edges) you'll notice the helical cutter head is much more quiet.
Does the machine have a neutral or is it just back & forward?
In earlier videos he's set the belts on both sides on their idle pully to put it in neutral.
Originally it would have had a loose/tight pulley system on the belt drive to the line shaft with a lever to kick it in and out of gear. I don't think Keith took that into account when doing the electric conversion. Now it only has the motors off button to stop it without trying to grab the shifter in mid range to put the main belts into neutral.
KEITH, GREAT VIDEO, GREAT JOB, TELL EVERYBODY HELLO, P S DON'T FORGET THE CATS AND DOGS...
I recommend way covers that reach over the exposed part of the ways, especially if any grinding or welding or anything dusty or smoky takes place in any part of the shop
On planers the chips don’t normally go very far. Just saying.
@@davidhtims the chips aren't much of a concern anyway, welding and grinding dust will land on every uncovered surface and it'll basically form lapping compound with the oil
@@MF175mp Bingo, I only do grinding and cutting in one part of my shop which is 36x48 with 12ft high walls, but that dust settles everywhere. My shop is dry-walled and you can basically see where every dry-wall screw is from the light magnetism in the screws.
I have the ways of my lathe always covered with thin plastic foil to protect them from dust.
Of course you can also clean them before every use, but covering them is easier.