It is getting a little spicy with the air valves, compressor, winch solar panel and all the extras - all in it might be 6500 which is still under a basic leaf spring trailer at this load capacity. I'll have a detailed breakdown of costs in the final video of this series
I still need ramps because I didn't want the axles to be too far forward and have excessive tail swing. Kind of an annoying compromise, but I didn't want to wreck everything around turns. I can put it on the ground with the jacks though
@@SteveP-vm1uc Mainly I had a specific angle I was trying to achieve to load a car and needed a higher deck at the same time to leave a steep driveway - only a little bit was to dash my hopes of it going all the way to the ground
@@Drivewaybuilt It sounds like you would be better off with a ramp truck. Maybe a ramp truck on BAGS!!!! Do a wedge bed and a 4-link on bags. Enough bag and propper engineering and you could put the edge on the ground AND lift it high enough to get out of the driveway without a rub... Then drop it back to highway ride height for the long haul... And THAT would be a video series that would get millions of views every episode!!!
From the looks of it you only have one control arm/ trailing arm per corner of the the axles. Won’t that cause axle row when you hit bumps, or even from take offs and stops. I would figure you’d need 2 arms per corner or set it up as a radius arm set up.
@@homergarcia376 I feel proper Feedback is always good and actually wanted. Here is how my thought process went - the main bracket is welded to the axle and the arms are connected with 2 bolts with bushings at each corner to those brackets - bolts are about 6"-8" apart to keep caster movement down and reduce torque on the bolts. Radius arms (these are considered trailing arms since they are the other way around) have to have some movement at the axle end or you will start inducing heavy twisting loads that break stuff and will bend arms, so welding the arm to the axle is a big no. There will be some roll due to the bushings, but it should be no more than a leaf spring allows with its bushings and u bolts. The airbags' check valves also help control some unwanted suspension behavior since preventing roll is the job of the suspension and not the link bars. the arm style is like what people have been using on Ford axles for years - most radius arms I have seen are bushed, including my Fords so they have some twist capability to them. Right now it performs beautifully, but I haven't gotten a real load on it yet - just picked up the decking for it - I will definitely put it through some safety tests before calling it a good design - it is a bit of untraveled territory with this design and there are unknowns to be wary of. Thanks for the input, it is always good to hear another's thoughts on things - hopefully you get my logic as well and hopefully it works out well.
@@Drivewaybuilt I’ve been following your build and it seems like a great build. I just don’t I’ve seen a in-depth on how your suspension was set up. Only from the quick shots of it is what I was going off of. Hope your design works well for you.
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How much do you think the overall cost to build this trailer is going to be?
It is getting a little spicy with the air valves, compressor, winch solar panel and all the extras - all in it might be 6500 which is still under a basic leaf spring trailer at this load capacity. I'll have a detailed breakdown of costs in the final video of this series
So, with the trailer hitched to your truck, does the dovetail settle on the ground or do you still need ramps??
I still need ramps because I didn't want the axles to be too far forward and have excessive tail swing. Kind of an annoying compromise, but I didn't want to wreck everything around turns. I can put it on the ground with the jacks though
@@Drivewaybuilt So, what was the reason for the bags if you still need ramps??
@@SteveP-vm1uc Mainly I had a specific angle I was trying to achieve to load a car and needed a higher deck at the same time to leave a steep driveway - only a little bit was to dash my hopes of it going all the way to the ground
@@Drivewaybuilt It sounds like you would be better off with a ramp truck. Maybe a ramp truck on BAGS!!!! Do a wedge bed and a 4-link on bags. Enough bag and propper engineering and you could put the edge on the ground AND lift it high enough to get out of the driveway without a rub... Then drop it back to highway ride height for the long haul... And THAT would be a video series that would get millions of views every episode!!!
From the looks of it you only have one control arm/ trailing arm per corner of the the axles. Won’t that cause axle row when you hit bumps, or even from take offs and stops. I would figure you’d need 2 arms per corner or set it up as a radius arm set up.
It is a radius arm setup
@@Drivewaybuilt shouldnt it be welded sold on the axle side. It has a bolt/pin on both side. That’s going to cause the axle to roll.
@@Drivewaybuilt I’m not trying to bust your balls. I’m just trying to help. You should look up an actual radius arm set up.
@@homergarcia376 I feel proper Feedback is always good and actually wanted.
Here is how my thought process went - the main bracket is welded to the axle and the arms are connected with 2 bolts with bushings at each corner to those brackets - bolts are about 6"-8" apart to keep caster movement down and reduce torque on the bolts.
Radius arms (these are considered trailing arms since they are the other way around) have to have some movement at the axle end or you will start inducing heavy twisting loads that break stuff and will bend arms, so welding the arm to the axle is a big no. There will be some roll due to the bushings, but it should be no more than a leaf spring allows with its bushings and u bolts.
The airbags' check valves also help control some unwanted suspension behavior since preventing roll is the job of the suspension and not the link bars.
the arm style is like what people have been using on Ford axles for years - most radius arms I have seen are bushed, including my Fords so they have some twist capability to them.
Right now it performs beautifully, but I haven't gotten a real load on it yet - just picked up the decking for it - I will definitely put it through some safety tests before calling it a good design - it is a bit of untraveled territory with this design and there are unknowns to be wary of.
Thanks for the input, it is always good to hear another's thoughts on things - hopefully you get my logic as well and hopefully it works out well.
@@Drivewaybuilt I’ve been following your build and it seems like a great build. I just don’t I’ve seen a in-depth on how your suspension was set up. Only from the quick shots of it is what I was going off of. Hope your design works well for you.