been installing since 2000...realized around 2003/4 that every install needed fabric. Especially in the northeast. Thanks for making this channel to instruct those who dont know
There is more tolerance in your subgrade excavation than the slope of the patio. The whole idea about mimicking the slope of patio is that any movement would most likely be uniform throughout the patio.
Yep always! A even better form of fabric I’ve found is SRW permeable 350. It is permeable with the strength of a woven fabric. It is expensive. However I don’t even look at cost when it comes to fabric. It is a life saver.
How deep can I make my bedding layer for a driveway on an 11 degree slope? I want to maximize drainage/water detention area by using open grade stone and either permeable pavers or TrueGrid...
@@iamahardscaperthanks for replying and great channel too. No one has 1/4"/HPB in my area (western Washington State). The best I've found is clean 3/8 crushed rock. There's also quarter minus that most recommend but I don't know if that would work ok on top of clean 3/4 crushed rock. (Actually mine is not 3/4, it's 5/8). Thanks
You’re videos are so informative. Can you build stone stairs on top of paver base or do they need a deeper foundation with a 3/4 stone and then you just place the paver base around the steps?
i was interested in prepping the paver base with Brock panels. Seemed like a great idea. i looked at a few paverstone stores and the reviews from customers say that there is a difference of height in these 12 x 12 pavers. i guess i will have to use about sand as my top base?
Yes every manufacturer has a stated tolerance that the pavers could differ. Some are worse than others. We lay on top of the panels and then go through and lift up the pavers and add some concrete sand to help level.
When do you put base material directly on the soil and when do you put fabric down first? We are in north FL and have always put fabric down first because of our sandy soil. We compact the excavated area very well, then put nonwoven fabric down, then our base material. Many times we wrap that base material with a top layer of fabric and then a thin bedding/leveling layer on top the fabric prior to pavers or ret wall material going down. We watch a lot of your videos, so wondered what you recommend in super sandy soil.
I always place fabric down first, but most of the time I sprinkle a little Portland cement and 3/4" clear and compact into the subsoil because we work with a lot of clay. If you have really sandy soil especially in FL, you could most likely skip the fabric and just place biaxial geogrid (if that is something you want to add to your base prep) at the bottom of your excavation. That will add stabilization to your base. Though if you subsoil is a sand silt mixture you would likely want to continue with that nonwoven.
What do you do with the edges of the fabric that stick out of the sides? Do you fold them in somehow or just cut the excess? Thanks for all your videos. They've been a great guide for me.
When using paver panels, if I run a compactor over the pavers how much height will I lose? I would imagine that the panels are going to sink into the sand just a bit, but how much?
If you are using sand you need to compact the sand first before laying out the panels. That would mean screeding, compacting, and then re-levelling before laying the panels. HPB (1/4" chip) works better because you don't need to compact first. With either of these you will lose basically nothing in height.
@@iamahardscaper My previous question was off a bit, as I'll be using Brock panels and they don't recommend compacting the pavers. Can I just use 1" of the HPB, screeded but not compacted?
@@iamahardscaper Thanks for the info. So the big advantage of the HPB over sand is that you don't need to compact the HPB? Brock recommends 3/4" sand compacted down to 1/2" under their panels.
Yes, 1" HPB not compacted. But you still want to consolidate the jointing compound when you are installing it by compacting the pavers (ideally with a roller compactor)
@@iamahardscaper OK, I looked around for HPB (1/4" clean gravel) and I couldn't find any around here (Albuquerque NM). Looks like I'm going to have to use use sand. The Brock Paver Base guy says to use 3/4" sand compacted down to 1/2" but there isn't anything good to use as screed pipe for that. I could use 1/2" rebar but it has too much flex for me. 3/4" pipe would be my preference (1" OD) and is a lot stiffer but would result in a 1" compacted bed. What do you think?
hmm, how do you deal with the edges of geo textile after placement and base material? looks messy. do you fold over the excess like a burrito or cut fabric to depth?
cut the fabric to the shape and ensure it goes up the sides to contain the base. It is definitely not fun to install the fabric especially when it is windy
been installing since 2000...realized around 2003/4 that every install needed fabric. Especially in the northeast. Thanks for making this channel to instruct those who dont know
Thank you!
What happens if you pitch your subgrade soil more aggressively than the patio?
There is more tolerance in your subgrade excavation than the slope of the patio. The whole idea about mimicking the slope of patio is that any movement would most likely be uniform throughout the patio.
Yep always! A even better form of fabric I’ve found is SRW permeable 350. It is permeable with the strength of a woven fabric. It is expensive. However I don’t even look at cost when it comes to fabric. It is a life saver.
Niiice I’ll have to look at that! Have you ever tried combigrid? It is a nonwoven with biaxial built into it
How deep can I make my bedding layer for a driveway on an 11 degree slope? I want to maximize drainage/water detention area by using open grade stone and either permeable pavers or TrueGrid...
I wouldn’t go deeper than 1.5”
Do you put another layer of fabric between 3/4 clean base and the HPB or concrete sand that goes on top as bedding material
I do not. But I also wouldn’t suggest using concrete sand on top of the 3/4 even if you choose to use fabric to separate them
@@iamahardscaperthanks for replying and great channel too.
No one has 1/4"/HPB in my area (western Washington State). The best I've found is clean 3/8 crushed rock. There's also quarter minus that most recommend but I don't know if that would work ok on top of clean 3/4 crushed rock. (Actually mine is not 3/4, it's 5/8). Thanks
3/8 inch works, but it should be clean (no dust / sand)
You’re videos are so informative. Can you build stone stairs on top of paver base or do they need a deeper foundation with a 3/4 stone and then you just place the paver base around the steps?
You can build steps and walls up to 18” in height on top of them. After that you need a proper foundation of 3/4” as you said
i was interested in prepping the paver base with Brock panels. Seemed like a great idea. i looked at a few paverstone stores and the reviews from customers say that there is a difference of height in these 12 x 12 pavers. i guess i will have to use about sand as my top base?
Yes every manufacturer has a stated tolerance that the pavers could differ. Some are worse than others. We lay on top of the panels and then go through and lift up the pavers and add some concrete sand to help level.
What is the purpose of amending the clay subsoil? How do I know if I need to do this?
We do this on all of our projects. It helps especially if it is wet and the 3/4” helps to allow more water permeation into the clay soil.
When do you put base material directly on the soil and when do you put fabric down first? We are in north FL and have always put fabric down first because of our sandy soil. We compact the excavated area very well, then put nonwoven fabric down, then our base material. Many times we wrap that base material with a top layer of fabric and then a thin bedding/leveling layer on top the fabric prior to pavers or ret wall material going down. We watch a lot of your videos, so wondered what you recommend in super sandy soil.
I always place fabric down first, but most of the time I sprinkle a little Portland cement and 3/4" clear and compact into the subsoil because we work with a lot of clay. If you have really sandy soil especially in FL, you could most likely skip the fabric and just place biaxial geogrid (if that is something you want to add to your base prep) at the bottom of your excavation. That will add stabilization to your base. Though if you subsoil is a sand silt mixture you would likely want to continue with that nonwoven.
What do you do with the edges of the fabric that stick out of the sides? Do you fold them in somehow or just cut the excess?
Thanks for all your videos. They've been a great guide for me.
Yup, just cut them back or tuck them down the sides if it is not much. Thank you for watching the videos!
@@iamahardscaper thank you!
When using paver panels, if I run a compactor over the pavers how much height will I lose? I would imagine that the panels are going to sink into the sand just a bit, but how much?
If you are using sand you need to compact the sand first before laying out the panels. That would mean screeding, compacting, and then re-levelling before laying the panels. HPB (1/4" chip) works better because you don't need to compact first. With either of these you will lose basically nothing in height.
@@iamahardscaper My previous question was off a bit, as I'll be using Brock panels and they don't recommend compacting the pavers. Can I just use 1" of the HPB, screeded but not compacted?
@@iamahardscaper Thanks for the info. So the big advantage of the HPB over sand is that you don't need to compact the HPB? Brock recommends 3/4" sand compacted down to 1/2" under their panels.
Yes, 1" HPB not compacted. But you still want to consolidate the jointing compound when you are installing it by compacting the pavers (ideally with a roller compactor)
@@iamahardscaper OK, I looked around for HPB (1/4" clean gravel) and I couldn't find any around here (Albuquerque NM). Looks like I'm going to have to use use sand. The Brock Paver Base guy says to use 3/4" sand compacted down to 1/2" but there isn't anything good to use as screed pipe for that. I could use 1/2" rebar but it has too much flex for me. 3/4" pipe would be my preference (1" OD) and is a lot stiffer but would result in a 1" compacted bed. What do you think?
hmm, how do you deal with the edges of geo textile after placement and base material? looks messy. do you fold over the excess like a burrito or cut fabric to depth?
cut the fabric to the shape and ensure it goes up the sides to contain the base. It is definitely not fun to install the fabric especially when it is windy
Actually it’s a question can you use lime dust for the base of your brick patio?
Nope:
STOP Using Stone Dust for Pavers | Problems with This Raised Patio
ruclips.net/video/zGdsOcPvVBw/видео.html
What are some alternatives to amend the clay soil? Would 3/8 crushed limestone work?
Lime would be the best along with the 3/4" clean stone
I see in your videos that you keep saying the biaxial geogrid is really inexpensive. Where?? For home DIY, it looks expensive everywhere! Thanks
perhaps relative to the pricing of the project it is inexpensive. For me it is about 0.40 per square foot
It’s also very important before installing landscape fabric on a project to not drink a warm protein shake.
😂😂 a very crucial part of any project
Who carries gator base in the GTA? East end.
almost any supplier should have access to it. Alliance Gator Base or Techni Seal EZ base
Boom goes the dynamite
🙌🙌
You talk like the listener knows what you're talking about. You need to make a video for "Dummies"!
Let me know where the hang-up is. We have other videos on the channel that addresses these topics.