Thanks! I especially appreciate your idea of using a scale to get the ratio right, showing us how quickly it dries and the related consistencies, and your tip about scraping off the excess while it's still not completely dry. All very helpful!
This is actually a type of Bondo and not a wood filler. It cures extremely hard and fast. It can be easily sanded real fine. Unfortunately it does not take stain worth a darn. Great for paint afterwards projects. I use it primarily for projects where I want strength and don't care about looks or under paint. Works on surfaces other than wood well just like Bondo.
While it is a polyester and NOT an epoxy, it does make a good structural wood filler on shallow fills, just not on any decayed wood that has not been treated and hardened prior to application. Use search words "wood consolidation" to learn more. Deep fills require epoxy that is pourable or injectable.
Good instruction. I use Bondo regularly to fill holes in my projects. If painted, easy to cover with a primer and if it's walnut, I tint the Bondo or touch up with dyes afterwards.
Thank you. This was helpful to see how this stuff worked. I bought some from Home Depot for thinking that it was tan colored stuff from Elmer's and was surprised to see the hardener. I didn't use the hardener because I wasn't pressed for time so it could take as long as it wanted to harden. The following day, the filler without the hardener was rubbery. It was still workable and I sanded it but this time I'll try the hardener. Again, thanks for your time.
5 лет назад+2
Epoxy resin is not meant to be used without the hardener.
Question. First, great work. I have a large harvest table I built 3-4 yrs ago with 3” threshing board. When built I purposely left it rustic, did apply several coats of polyurethane finish, but left several cracks, etc to maintain that look. This was new to me, I typically like a perfect finish. One crack I chose to leave is quite large. Being in Canada our houses get extremely dry each winter. I’m not happy with the size of this crack December to March at all. I want to fill it but I don’t want that fill to then crack. I used this product on some of the nail holes etc and it’s performed very well on those after the 3 or so years. But with a lengthy crack not sure it will perform the same. AND I would like to avoid a complete epoxy finish on the whole table, I love the finish I have today. I just want that crack filled now and done right. If I do it now, while the house is at its driest and the crack at its largest I think I can get a handle on it. Looking for your thoughts.
Thanks! Incredibly helpful video - just learning to repair older furniture to restore/paint and this video provides the info I need for a waterfall dresses I just picked up.
I need to fix a large gouge in and exposed peace of a wood project. It's about 4 inches long two and a half inches wide and nearly an inch deep. Unfortunately, this repaired section is going to need several finishing nails driven into it. What is the best kind of filler that will receive nails without cracking and crumbling?
I have a question. I have a large IKEA desk with wood grain pattern veneer that I would like to fill all the simulated wood grain ridges to make it smooth and sandable. I then want to paint the desktop black and apply a table top, self leveling epoxy coat on the table. Could I use this product as a base to fill in the ridges and have epoxy coating cover it without risk having the epoxy come off? thanks.
I have a question for you... I had a fascia corner on the house that was rotting out. I used a drill wire brush to scrape away all the bad wood. I coated what remained with the minwax wood hardener. I plan to now use this minwax wood filler to fill in all the space I scraped away. My question is this... do you recommend I try to apply the bulk of what is needed right out of the gate? Or, do you think I should do it in small bits at a time... about the amount you used in the video? Btw, I suspect that I will end up needing to use at least 8+ times what you did in the video.
Nm, I figured it out. It was near the bottom of the instructions on the can. You put it on in layers... I think it said about 1/4" at a time. Anyway, I finished the project. It looks pretty cool. I had to put some duct tape along the bottom though to keep it from dripping. That stuff goes from peanut butter to rock hard WAY too fast. So, without the tape the stuff wanted to just drip down. The tape worked awesome btw. Gave the bottom a nice smooth edge. Virtually no sanding was needed. I just made sure I took the tape off the second it started hardening. Not sure how hard it would have been to remove had I left it on too long.
It is slightly lighter than what you see in the video. Toward the end of the video, where I am scrapping the material, that is pretty cured. This does not really dry as much as it cures or hardens. Drying is an evaporative process, where as epoxies are a curing process. It is a chemical reaction. Just some helpful info :)
Auto body Bondo is more rigid and is suited to metal restoration, whereas, Wood Bondo is engineered to be compatible with wood, by the allowance of expansion and contraction, especially with exterior applications.
If you've let the filler harden and then approach sanding, what is the best method, especially for larger areas like cracks in exterior house wood? Wet sandpaper? On a block? Etc. Any tips appreciated! The material is very hard at this point and resists smoothing. Thanks for note on the 30-minute scrape, and also working with smaller amounts of compound to keep things buttery. Brilliant. Next time.
David Knight yes, you can fill up to a 1/4" deep area per instructions (I have successfully filled more than 1" though with no issues). It is really all about the amount of time it will take to fill your crack, but it should have no issue working.
I'm doing that now. I make a patch piece out of the same material as the wood I'm repairing, place it over the hole and trace around the perimeter with a knife. Then I use a trim router and a chisel to make the hole the exact shape of the patch (the knife cuts make this easy). Make the depth of the hole a bit less than the thickness of your patch. Glue the patch in place and sand it flush after the glue dries. I apply Minwax wood filler over the patch to fill the inevitable gaps next to the patch. This kiind of repair is called a "dutchman" and it is used a lot in boatbuilding. It's not good for staining, but it is perfect for something you intend to paint.
have you ever tried using a body work type file instead of a scraper, I think you might find that faster and leave a better overall smooth out ready for sanding. If this is like Bondo it should work at the 30 min mark dry time. I'd also assume it gets harder over time too.
That would have worked a lot better on my garage door then what I did. the stuff I used let the paint peel back after about 3-4 years I'll redo it only this time I'll put some bite in the surface for the paint to bond too, Now I get to try and match a fake wood grain finish I did on wood. I just make it black like big knot holes, it look cool from a distance. It should give the wood a rot damaged look. That should freak out the neighbors . No HOA I can do anything I like.
I honestly would be interested in comparing the ingredients I bet its bondo. It would be good if you have a deeper hole to put some nails or screws not driven all the wayin, in the hole so that it bonds to the metal and makes it stronger.
I can't tell the difference between this Minwax bondo for wood applications and the Bondo for auto skin repair. It is mixed the same way and acts the same while hardening up. What say you users??
Thanks for this! I'm about to use this filler to fill cracks in an old wood window frame (exterior), and your tips are helpful. I liked how the video came out. What camera and adapter/mount did you use that allowed you to work with both hands?
+TLMuse - Here is the rig I use, it is super handy and the clip detaches for use on a tripod or gorrilla clamp, which has been very useful - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0199VMOEK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the response. BTW, I did use the filler. I was working outside, with the temperature in the lower 80s F. The working time was about 3 min or less (I actually timed it)! Reducing the amount of the white part by about 24% or so didn't seem to affect the working time much. It was very frustrating; I had to work in small batches. But when it's first mixed, it's a pleasure to work with. Your tips helped the project go more smoothly.
+TLMuse - Yes - the open time will shorten significantly as the temp goes up.....exponentially. Humidity will also play a factor. One thing that I have tried that can help is to chill the blade of your mixing knife - keep a drywall tray of ice water nearby and place the blade in it while you are between batches. This can increase the open time in hot temps. You can also chill the mixtures as well. All of this will help increase the open time. I would say getting the material down to 50 degrees F is about right.
I do like this product but like you said the dry time is so fast you end up trying to spread balls or gummy flakes that are a pain. Looking for a good clear resin. If anyone know please let me know.
Actually, this product is not epoxy based; it's styrene-based similar to Bondo and the polyester resin used with fiberglass. Doesn't change my view of the product. In fact, I use it all the time. Also, you can adjust the working time by using less of the hardener (longer time) or more-which will set up fast.
if this is used on the corners and edges of a project, how shock resistant is it if it gets dropped on edge? and will it be hard enough to use a router on it? how stainable is it? or is it stainable? (edit: read the minwax faq on this) would a tint affect the consistency of the mixture? thanks
+jeff smith if you go to some extra effort, it can be used in such a way that it will be stronger than the wood itself. For edge applications, I would use a very small drill bit on a drimel, or even just gripped in a sort of vise grips, and drill many small holes in the area to be covered, then, when the mix is initially made, use a tooth pick to press in some of the filler. Then immediately apply a layer that is greater than the edge to be rebuilt. Once it starts to harden, rough it too the shape you desire, then wait another 30-45 min and shape some more. Each pass, up to the point that it is fully hardened (8-24 hours) you can continue to shape the area. If the edge has a profile, pickup up a $10 profile tool from your local big box store
+jeff smith yes, once fully cured, you can use a router on it. Just be careful to take small passes and do not allow the router to dig too deeply on one pass.
+jeff smith it is stainable, using the recommended stain from Minwax. Your milage here will vary, as the filter has tint in it and will affect the color. The color will also change over the cure period. If the repair is structural, you may want to avoid using stain for the initial application, then recover the area with a thin layer which includes the stain.
would this stuff work on interior wood jambs had to relocate strike plates on door jambs want to fill in old areas where plates use to be want to fill all in then prime & paint jamb.
@@charredskeleton Yep - Epoxy and sawdust works great also , but epoxy can get expensive . I keep about 4 different batches of sawdust which has had different colors of wood stain added to it . Have a great holiday weekend .
Simplest answer is that these epoxies have been designed to expand and contract at the same rate as wood, whereas Bondo is intended for autobody use. Bondo is somewhat more likely to separate from the wood over time.
have a question. I am redoing a table top. originally thought it was wood. come to find out it's laminate. so while Sanding I went to far. (not hard to do on the router edge). so to fix it, I wentwith plastic wood and used a 1 1/2 inch putty knife. but it is not smoothing out like I want. any recommendations? I wanted to stain. but won't be able to unless I can get it completely smoothed
captqball31 I would do some test samples and mix the stain into the product until you get the color right. Then, once you apply, it should be a good match.
Does wax paper stick to this? I'm looking for a non-stick barrier (like wax paper?) that will let me shape multiple application layers. Would I be able to press down on an application layer using wax paper to shape the application, and then just peel away the wax paper? The void that I'm trying to fill is large and irregular and I'm trying to "form" multiple layers so that I can glue a wood block as a final layer. Thanks for any help.
yusuihang because this product is like epoxy, there is no need to build it up. Just ill the whole void all at once. Doing layers will really make it less strong.
Is there a filler that is like caulking for my fence that has opening in almost every board. I want something easy without all that mix and prep work am a 73 yr old women and I want some thing easy.
angie p not knowing the full details of your project, it is hard for me to say what would work. There are lots of tube based products though that would probably work. I would stop at your local hardware store and explain what you are trying to address and they will help.
Can this stick to a primed surface. I want to use it to repair exterior trim prior to repainting. Plan to scrap off any loose old paint. Then prime surface, then apply this filler to fill in any cracks. Anyone used it successfully in similar application? I've used it on raw wood and it works great.
I bought that scraper, thanks. Any advise on filling a gauge the size of a dime on a piece that will be stained a neutral (clear) color? Minwax stainable wood filler is anything but stainable.
+TJ Wash the best luck I have had is to mix the stain right into the filler when making it. You could also look to use a standard two part marine epoxy. West Systems is what I use.
Do you know if this can be used on particle board? I have a piece of particle board that got a little bit wet & it left raised rings on the surface; I then tried to sand it smooth, but the laminated surface just caked up my sand paper and made the rest of the board have a rough texture as well. Somehow someway I need to get a surface that I can sand down to a smooth surface and spray paint it. I'm wondering if I would be able to apply this and have it stick?
Newbie here. I have a coffee table with a crevice all along the top (assuming it was cut with a router that way) that I want to fill in. It keeps catching crumbs, play doh, and whatever else my toddler can cram into it. What would be the best way to go about filling this in?
+Laura Grandestaff I would probably lying use a self leveling epoxy across the while top of the table. It would fill the gap and provide a new layer of protection. You can pick up a product called Super Glaze at your big box store. It is about $25 and will cover a good sized area. Just make sure the table is perfectly level in all directions, properly prep the surface by roughing it with a green brilliant pad, and keep a hair dryer handy during the drying process to raise any air bubbles to the top
Is the hardener purchased separately from the filler? ...also, I need to repair an outdoor planter. (cedar) Would this Minwax product hold up outdoors?
Hi There, would you recommend the same product for repairing a chipped upper corner on a wood fireplace mantel? if not, is there a better product to use? Thanks!
If it's painted Bondo auto body filler, or Durhams water puddy. If there's room for a screw inside the repair it's advisable to use one or more. You can use tape as a form. As a warning bondo STINKS and my be a heath hazard, ventilation is a must. If you can take your piece outside even better. I'm no good with stain, I can't help you if it has a clear finish.
You probably could, but you'd probably want to build it up in layers to get an effective cure - I think you can apply it about a 1/4 inch to a 1/2 inch deep at a time. A really large hole might be better filled by mortising out some of the wood to make a regular shaped opening and then gluing in a wood plug using an appropriate glue (i.e. wood glue will work fine for interior purposes, but PU glue like Gorilla Glue would likely work well for exterior applications), then sanding it back to smooth, using filler to cover any remaining gaps. The nice thing about a polyurethane glues is that they expand as they harden, so you'd be left with a more fully filled opening that may not require further application of filler. All depends on your intended end state and the type of finish you want to apply.
Minwax High Performance WoodFiller is a polyester resin, not epoxy. There is a chemical difference between polyester and epoxy. Epoxy, in general, has higher bond strength and is virtually shrink-free. Because it is 2 component does not make it any epoxy. There are many 2 component products that are not epoxy. If this product was epoxy the manufacturer would state that on the packaging because epoxy is a premium product. The noxious odor you refer to is styrene, a suspected carcinogen. People who are looking for epoxy should not be confused by the representation that this is epoxy.
Richard Ahlstrom thank you for the clarification. I meant some months ago to say thank you. I have since gone down the rabbit hole on two part resins and epoxies. :) I will be sure to annotate the video to correct the incorrect info I provided.
Trevor Phillips true! The prop 65? I think it’s 65, it is on everything. Kinda frustrating since it doesn’t specify what chemicals are the issue so you can make a choice if its something you are willing to use in your home.
I would not recommend any epoxy filler for use on food surfaces. The chances of something flaking on a cutting board would be bad. Cutting boards that are well designed are made to breathe - expand and contract - this would result in the epoxy eventually failing.
Good video. I have a question though. If you are going to end up painting that sidelight why did you spend so much effort removing oils and soda blasting and acetone etc etc. Surely just a decent sand and then fill holes and smooth and sand. All that extra work seems to me to be for no benefit. The paint will cover up all that work you did.
elan really I appreciate that this stuff can be a pain to work with. I have been using the same product for more than 10 years and have never had an issue. I have seen it used improperly and it not work well. The ratio for mixing is pretty important. Also making sure to use fresh product is important as well.
+hotmoon226 no, and when applied more than 2-4 mils in thickness, it will eventually shrink and crack, particularly if something like elmers wood glue or other cheap brand. Tite Bond II I is probably lying the only glue I could recommend for mixing and filling, but even then, I would apply in thin layers and build up. Most all wood glues are water based, most stains are oil based. Mixing the two together would both not work and you would end up with a crappy joint
this was a terrific tutorial but I should have watched it before I applied stuff to the cracks between the floorboards of my wooden porch floor. I have large goops of stuff all over. I guess I can only try to sand it now to smooth it out.
+Carmel Loughman if you did not get it all up with sand paper, you can use acetone, but be forwarned, it will eat almost any finish. But it will clean up the filler in most instances. Sorry you had trouble.
Any particular reason why you favor this product over wood epoxy lines such as Abatron, SystemThree and PC Products? I realize they are more expensive, but for the low quantity you seem to use in furniture restoration, it would seem worth the added cost to have more flexibility in terms of consistency (liquid, paste, putty), zero shrinkage and strength. I'm much less knowledgeable than you with respect to woodworking, so I thought I would ask.
The mixing of this is a pain in the rear and needs a better system for home DIY folks......1 to 1 or even 2 to 1 would be way easier.....16:1 is hard to do with a paste for small amounts.
I just used this for the 1st time - yep it smells bad! 20 minutes ago I put it on the decorative wood on a headboard to fill it in. I gunked it in. I sure hope I can sand it to be flush after it dries. I'm redoing a lady's bedroom furniture- I sure hope I didn't screw this up.
So I didn’t read the instructions 😩 Watches a lady using it, but she never showed the mixing parta. I didn’t add the hardener 😭 I “fix” a big crooked gap on a table’s leg. *She scrapes and starts over*... 😣 Reading is so important (lesson learned)
Bondo filler is fine indoors, but outside, the bondo filler will be harder than wood and crack it. This Minwax filler works better with wood in exterior use as it expands with wood under hot conditions.
I wish people making these videos would organize their presentation better. The overall content is very good, but so much back and forth and rambling makes me want to skip ahead.
Why invest all the time to salvage items like this only to be painted? Left 'au naturale' I get. Any woodworker worth their salt could clone a pair of these in two days or less.
+Benny Hannah while I understand your vibe, the reality is that reproduction or restoration of antique milworks is not easy or cheap. Customers pay me to maintain what is real and original. I do what I know
Excellent product review. Use, demo, tutorial. distraction: STOP SUCKING YOUR TEETH WHILE SPEAKING! It's worse than "ahhh", and passive aggressive. look it up: Alveolar, alveopalatal, or postalveolar click
This is super helpful! I bought this stuff for a dresser repair, and wasn’t sure where to start. Thanks for the help!
Thanks! I especially appreciate your idea of using a scale to get the ratio right, showing us how quickly it dries and the related consistencies, and your tip about scraping off the excess while it's still not completely dry. All very helpful!
This is actually a type of Bondo and not a wood filler. It cures extremely hard and fast. It can be easily sanded real fine. Unfortunately it does not take stain worth a darn. Great for paint afterwards projects. I use it primarily for projects where I want strength and don't care about looks or under paint. Works on surfaces other than wood well just like Bondo.
While it is a polyester and NOT an epoxy, it does make a good structural wood filler on shallow fills, just not on any decayed wood that has not been treated and hardened prior to application. Use search words "wood consolidation" to learn more. Deep fills require epoxy that is pourable or injectable.
Does it smell bad? Like bad chemicals? (Polyester Resin is *The Stink.)*
@@dennisyoung4631 It smells like auto body filler, "Bondo". I don't find it terribly stinky. Guess cause I've been around Bondo quite a bit.
@@OddJobFix Thanks for that information.
@@jaredklements729 Absolutely welcome.
Good instruction. I use Bondo regularly to fill holes in my projects. If painted, easy to cover with a primer and if it's walnut, I tint the Bondo or touch up with dyes afterwards.
Thank you. This was helpful to see how this stuff worked. I bought some from Home Depot for thinking that it was tan colored stuff from Elmer's and was surprised to see the hardener. I didn't use the hardener because I wasn't pressed for time so it could take as long as it wanted to harden. The following day, the filler without the hardener was rubbery. It was still workable and I sanded it but this time I'll try the hardener. Again, thanks for your time.
Epoxy resin is not meant to be used without the hardener.
@ :
Question. First, great work.
I have a large harvest table I built 3-4 yrs ago with 3” threshing board. When built I purposely left it rustic, did apply several coats of polyurethane finish, but left several cracks, etc to maintain that look. This was new to me, I typically like a perfect finish. One crack I chose to leave is quite large. Being in Canada our houses get extremely dry each winter. I’m not happy with the size of this crack December to March at all. I want to fill it but I don’t want that fill to then crack. I used this product on some of the nail holes etc and it’s performed very well on those after the 3 or so years. But with a lengthy crack not sure it will perform the same. AND I would like to avoid a complete epoxy finish on the whole table, I love the finish I have today. I just want that crack filled now and done right. If I do it now, while the house is at its driest and the crack at its largest I think I can get a handle on it. Looking for your thoughts.
Great details on the ratio measurement .. THANKS
Great video. What are/causes the scattered black areas on the wood?
Thanks! Incredibly helpful video - just learning to repair older furniture to restore/paint and this video provides the info I need for a waterfall dresses I just picked up.
This is why I love youtube ......... thank you so much
Great video , very helpful..........................Thank You...........
Love this wood filler! Easier to work with than Bondo on chips. Same price!
Does it expand and shrink well if I use it outside?
I like that scraper . Thanks for showing and linking. I was wondering what it was.
ruclips.net/video/6XkPjKHzU1o/видео.html&lc=UgyoJhxeMvP4raalw_h4AaABAg
Does the smell fade pretty quick after drying?
I need to fix a large gouge in and exposed peace of a wood project. It's about 4 inches long two and a half inches wide and nearly an inch deep. Unfortunately, this repaired section is going to need several finishing nails driven into it. What is the best kind of filler that will receive nails without cracking and crumbling?
Great video!! Thank you!
All well done. Thank you!
How well does it take stain
I have a question. I have a large IKEA desk with wood grain pattern veneer that I would like to fill all the simulated wood grain ridges to make it smooth and sandable. I then want to paint the desktop black and apply a table top, self leveling epoxy coat on the table. Could I use this product as a base to fill in the ridges and have epoxy coating cover it without risk having the epoxy come off? thanks.
I have a question for you...
I had a fascia corner on the house that was rotting out. I used a drill wire brush to scrape away all the bad wood. I coated what remained with the minwax wood hardener. I plan to now use this minwax wood filler to fill in all the space I scraped away.
My question is this... do you recommend I try to apply the bulk of what is needed right out of the gate? Or, do you think I should do it in small bits at a time... about the amount you used in the video? Btw, I suspect that I will end up needing to use at least 8+ times what you did in the video.
Nm, I figured it out. It was near the bottom of the instructions on the can. You put it on in layers... I think it said about 1/4" at a time.
Anyway, I finished the project. It looks pretty cool. I had to put some duct tape along the bottom though to keep it from dripping. That stuff goes from peanut butter to rock hard WAY too fast. So, without the tape the stuff wanted to just drip down. The tape worked awesome btw. Gave the bottom a nice smooth edge. Virtually no sanding was needed. I just made sure I took the tape off the second it started hardening. Not sure how hard it would have been to remove had I left it on too long.
101perspective love hearing that it worked!!
What a great video! Very informative. I'm a painter/finisher and you have definitely inspired me!
I have used auto body filler for years it appears to be the same. The portions are not critical, but it will change the working time.
Thank you for helpful video. Can you show what it looks like after its completely dry? does it keep that same color?
It is slightly lighter than what you see in the video. Toward the end of the video, where I am scrapping the material, that is pretty cured. This does not really dry as much as it cures or hardens. Drying is an evaporative process, where as epoxies are a curing process. It is a chemical reaction. Just some helpful info :)
I love that you are wood working and sound like Ron Swanson!
Chiefhendricks my Idol!!
Yep - basically Bondo - not epoxy
I suspect you have some gold bars buried in your backyard. 😁
What is the difference between this and bondo it seems like its the same thing and ive been using bondo on wood for many years.
Auto body Bondo is more rigid and is suited to metal restoration, whereas, Wood Bondo is engineered to be compatible with wood, by the allowance of expansion and contraction, especially with exterior applications.
starts @14:58
If you've let the filler harden and then approach sanding, what is the best method, especially for larger areas like cracks in exterior house wood? Wet sandpaper? On a block? Etc. Any tips appreciated! The material is very hard at this point and resists smoothing. Thanks for note on the 30-minute scrape, and also working with smaller amounts of compound to keep things buttery. Brilliant. Next time.
Gretchan Jackson I have found that heavy grit, 60-80, is best, then finish with a higher grit
Will this method work well for longer cracks in the wood? I noticed most of the filling you were doing here were for smaller dents/cracks. Thank you
David Knight yes, you can fill up to a 1/4" deep area per instructions (I have successfully filled more than 1" though with no issues). It is really all about the amount of time it will take to fill your crack, but it should have no issue working.
how would go about filling a 1 inch hole in a 4x4 post?
I'm doing that now. I make a patch piece out of the same material as the wood I'm repairing, place it over the hole and trace around the perimeter with a knife. Then I use a trim router and a chisel to make the hole the exact shape of the patch (the knife cuts make this easy). Make the depth of the hole a bit less than the thickness of your patch. Glue the patch in place and sand it flush after the glue dries. I apply Minwax wood filler over the patch to fill the inevitable gaps next to the patch. This kiind of repair is called a "dutchman" and it is used a lot in boatbuilding. It's not good for staining, but it is perfect for something you intend to paint.
Lol. I used to use that same scale to measure out weed when I used to sell it back in my high school days 😂
have you ever tried using a body work type file instead of a scraper, I think you might find that faster and leave a better overall smooth out ready for sanding.
If this is like Bondo it should work at the 30 min mark dry time. I'd also assume it gets harder over time too.
I will have to check this out!! Thanks!
That would have worked a lot better on my garage door then what I did. the stuff I used let the paint peel back after about 3-4 years I'll redo it only this time I'll put some bite in the surface for the paint to bond too, Now I get to try and match a fake wood grain finish I did on wood. I just make it black like big knot holes, it look cool from a distance. It should give the wood a rot damaged look.
That should freak out the neighbors . No HOA I can do anything I like.
I honestly would be interested in comparing the ingredients I bet its bondo. It would be good if you have a deeper hole to put some nails or screws not driven all the wayin, in the hole so that it bonds to the metal and makes it stronger.
I prefer the one without the hardener. It may take like an hour to dry, but it's a lot easier to work with.
I can't tell the difference between this Minwax bondo for wood applications and the Bondo for auto skin repair. It is mixed the same way and acts the same while hardening up. What say you users??
Thanks for this! I'm about to use this filler to fill cracks in an old wood window frame (exterior), and your tips are helpful.
I liked how the video came out. What camera and adapter/mount did you use that allowed you to work with both hands?
+TLMuse - Here is the rig I use, it is super handy and the clip detaches for use on a tripod or gorrilla clamp, which has been very useful - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0199VMOEK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the response. BTW, I did use the filler. I was working outside, with the temperature in the lower 80s F. The working time was about 3 min or less (I actually timed it)! Reducing the amount of the white part by about 24% or so didn't seem to affect the working time much. It was very frustrating; I had to work in small batches. But when it's first mixed, it's a pleasure to work with. Your tips helped the project go more smoothly.
+TLMuse - Yes - the open time will shorten significantly as the temp goes up.....exponentially. Humidity will also play a factor. One thing that I have tried that can help is to chill the blade of your mixing knife - keep a drywall tray of ice water nearby and place the blade in it while you are between batches. This can increase the open time in hot temps. You can also chill the mixtures as well. All of this will help increase the open time. I would say getting the material down to 50 degrees F is about right.
Thanks for those helpful ideas. I'll probably be doing more outside fill work in the next few weeks; I'll keep this in mind if the weather stays hot.
TLMuse
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it a polyester and NOT an epoxy? Big difference.
I do like this product but like you said the dry time is so fast you end up trying to spread balls or gummy flakes that are a pain. Looking for a good clear resin. If anyone know please let me know.
Actually, this product is not epoxy based; it's styrene-based similar to Bondo and the polyester resin used with fiberglass. Doesn't change my view of the product. In fact, I use it all the time. Also, you can adjust the working time by using less of the hardener (longer time) or more-which will set up fast.
if this is used on the corners and edges of a project, how shock resistant is it if it gets dropped on edge? and will it be hard enough to use a router on it?
how stainable is it? or is it stainable? (edit: read the minwax faq on this)
would a tint affect the consistency of the mixture?
thanks
+jeff smith if you go to some extra effort, it can be used in such a way that it will be stronger than the wood itself. For edge applications, I would use a very small drill bit on a drimel, or even just gripped in a sort of vise grips, and drill many small holes in the area to be covered, then, when the mix is initially made, use a tooth pick to press in some of the filler. Then immediately apply a layer that is greater than the edge to be rebuilt. Once it starts to harden, rough it too the shape you desire, then wait another 30-45 min and shape some more. Each pass, up to the point that it is fully hardened (8-24 hours) you can continue to shape the area. If the edge has a profile, pickup up a $10 profile tool from your local big box store
+jeff smith yes, once fully cured, you can use a router on it. Just be careful to take small passes and do not allow the router to dig too deeply on one pass.
+jeff smith it is stainable, using the recommended stain from Minwax. Your milage here will vary, as the filter has tint in it and will affect the color. The color will also change over the cure period. If the repair is structural, you may want to avoid using stain for the initial application, then recover the area with a thin layer which includes the stain.
thanks for the replies.
would this stuff work on interior wood jambs had to relocate strike plates on door jambs want to fill in old areas where plates use to be want to fill all in then prime & paint jamb.
It works and you can mix it or Bondo with sawdust for a great wood filler .
It's polyester based filler. Just Bondo in a small can with a high price.
Correct - I use Bondo mixed with sawdust and it works great . Far less expensive .
@@QuantumMechanic_88 Hadn't thought of that. Sanding dust or saw dust to thicken it a bit.
@@charredskeleton Yep - Epoxy and sawdust works great also , but epoxy can get expensive . I keep about 4 different batches of sawdust which has had different colors of wood stain added to it . Have a great holiday weekend .
What's the difference between this product and premium Bondo auto body filler? They both smell the same, only the Bondo is cheaper for the same size.
Simplest answer is that these epoxies have been designed to expand and contract at the same rate as wood, whereas Bondo is intended for autobody use. Bondo is somewhat more likely to separate from the wood over time.
Nice scraper
Thank you.
have a question. I am redoing a table top. originally thought it was wood. come to find out it's laminate. so while Sanding I went to far. (not hard to do on the router edge). so to fix it, I wentwith plastic wood and used a 1 1/2 inch putty knife. but it is not smoothing out like I want. any recommendations? I wanted to stain. but won't be able to unless I can get it completely smoothed
captqball31 I would do some test samples and mix the stain into the product until you get the color right. Then, once you apply, it should be a good match.
Does this work to fill in wood screw holes? What is that scrapping tool called?
Does wax paper stick to this? I'm looking for a non-stick barrier (like wax paper?) that will let me shape multiple application layers. Would I be able to press down on an application layer using wax paper to shape the application, and then just peel away the wax paper? The void that I'm trying to fill is large and irregular and I'm trying to "form" multiple layers so that I can glue a wood block as a final layer. Thanks for any help.
yusuihang because this product is like epoxy, there is no need to build it up. Just ill the whole void all at once. Doing layers will really make it less strong.
Thanks for the very detail video. Question: after it is shape, dried, and sanded can it be painted with a primer and semi-gloss paint?
+ann cargle yes! Apologies for slow reoly
Helpful. Thx
What is the tool your using to scape off wood filer?
ruclips.net/video/6XkPjKHzU1o/видео.html&lc=UgyoJhxeMvP4raalw_h4AaABAg
Is there a filler that is like caulking for my fence that has opening in almost every board. I want something easy without all that mix and prep work am a 73 yr old women and I want some thing easy.
angie p not knowing the full details of your project, it is hard for me to say what would work. There are lots of tube based products though that would probably work. I would stop at your local hardware store and explain what you are trying to address and they will help.
Can this stick to a primed surface. I want to use it to repair exterior trim prior to repainting. Plan to scrap off any loose old paint. Then prime surface, then apply this filler to fill in any cracks. Anyone used it successfully in similar application? I've used it on raw wood and it works great.
I bought that scraper, thanks. Any advise on filling a gauge the size of a dime on a piece that will be stained a neutral (clear) color? Minwax stainable wood filler is anything but stainable.
+TJ Wash the best luck I have had is to mix the stain right into the filler when making it. You could also look to use a standard two part marine epoxy. West Systems is what I use.
Do you know if this can be used on particle board? I have a piece of particle board that got a little bit wet & it left raised rings on the surface; I then tried to sand it smooth, but the laminated surface just caked up my sand paper and made the rest of the board have a rough texture as well. Somehow someway I need to get a surface that I can sand down to a smooth surface and spray paint it. I'm wondering if I would be able to apply this and have it stick?
+Lynzi K yes, it will work, but you will need to make sure that after you apply it, you put a coating of some kind over the filler
Thanks for the video. That looks exactly like Bondo.
It IS bondo.
Newbie here. I have a coffee table with a crevice all along the top (assuming it was cut with a router that way) that I want to fill in. It keeps catching crumbs, play doh, and whatever else my toddler can cram into it. What would be the best way to go about filling this in?
+Laura Grandestaff I would probably lying use a self leveling epoxy across the while top of the table. It would fill the gap and provide a new layer of protection. You can pick up a product called Super Glaze at your big box store. It is about $25 and will cover a good sized area. Just make sure the table is perfectly level in all directions, properly prep the surface by roughing it with a green brilliant pad, and keep a hair dryer handy during the drying process to raise any air bubbles to the top
How long does the smell last I have a fan on I have all the windows open we are out of area the smell is obnoxious
elizabeth ramirez hopefully the smell is gone!! :) apologies for not responding sooner
Epoxy stays liquid longer at high temp. You can use heat gun to delay
LordThree
It's polyester, not epoxy.
Is the hardener purchased separately from the filler?
...also, I need to repair an outdoor planter. (cedar) Would this Minwax product hold up outdoors?
Hardener is included when you buy the filler (under the plastic cap)
Hi There, would you recommend the same product for repairing a chipped upper corner on a wood fireplace mantel? if not, is there a better product to use? Thanks!
If it's painted Bondo auto body filler, or Durhams water puddy. If there's room for a screw inside the repair it's advisable to use one or more. You can use tape as a form. As a warning bondo STINKS and my be a heath hazard, ventilation is a must. If you can take your piece outside even better. I'm no good with stain, I can't help you if it has a clear finish.
Rock Hard Wood Putty. Water-based powder, dries rock-hard. Can be drilled or sanded.
Neat tool. Thanks for sharing this.
can I use this filler for lg holes
You probably could, but you'd probably want to build it up in layers to get an effective cure - I think you can apply it about a 1/4 inch to a 1/2 inch deep at a time. A really large hole might be better filled by mortising out some of the wood to make a regular shaped opening and then gluing in a wood plug using an appropriate glue (i.e. wood glue will work fine for interior purposes, but PU glue like Gorilla Glue would likely work well for exterior applications), then sanding it back to smooth, using filler to cover any remaining gaps. The nice thing about a polyurethane glues is that they expand as they harden, so you'd be left with a more fully filled opening that may not require further application of filler. All depends on your intended end state and the type of finish you want to apply.
Did the hardner come with the filler ?
yes
It doesn’t take stain at all. Has anyone tried to add stain to the mix?
I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!
Minwax High Performance WoodFiller is a polyester resin, not epoxy. There is a chemical difference between polyester and epoxy. Epoxy, in general, has higher bond strength and is virtually shrink-free. Because it is 2 component does not make it any epoxy. There are many 2 component products that are not epoxy. If this product was epoxy the manufacturer would state that on the packaging because epoxy is a premium product. The noxious odor you refer to is styrene, a suspected carcinogen. People who are looking for epoxy should not be confused by the representation that this is epoxy.
Richard Ahlstrom thank you for the clarification. I meant some months ago to say thank you. I have since gone down the rabbit hole on two part resins and epoxies. :) I will be sure to annotate the video to correct the incorrect info I provided.
The title still shows "epoxy resin" in parentheses.
"a suspected carcinogen" In California, everything is a carcinogen.
Trevor Phillips true! The prop 65? I think it’s 65, it is on everything. Kinda frustrating since it doesn’t specify what chemicals are the issue so you can make a choice if its something you are willing to use in your home.
@@jaimes1572 Frosted Flakes are a carcinogen in California, so far everyone over the age of 100 who has eaten them has died.
Very informative. Thanks!
Whats a good wood filler for cutting boards??? By good, I mean food friendly. Thanks.
I would not recommend any epoxy filler for use on food surfaces. The chances of something flaking on a cutting board would be bad. Cutting boards that are well designed are made to breathe - expand and contract - this would result in the epoxy eventually failing.
@@JamieMeredith Ok, its gnna be my first time doing this, what WOULD you recommend, then?
Good video. I have a question though. If you are going to end up painting that sidelight why did you spend so much effort removing oils and soda blasting and acetone etc etc. Surely just a decent sand and then fill holes and smooth and sand. All that extra work seems to me to be for no benefit. The paint will cover up all that work you did.
Paint will not adhere properly if you don't prep it right,
Thanks for the tips. Good video. Mike
Quick question will this sealer evenutally crack? Having that probkem with my current wood filler
Valentina Edmonds - if mixed correctly, no.
I've used this junk and it's really no good. I use wood glue mixed with saw dust. It works a lot better.
elan really I appreciate that this stuff can be a pain to work with. I have been using the same product for more than 10 years and have never had an issue. I have seen it used improperly and it not work well. The ratio for mixing is pretty important. Also making sure to use fresh product is important as well.
But wood glue can not be stained, can it?
+hotmoon226 no, and when applied more than 2-4 mils in thickness, it will eventually shrink and crack, particularly if something like elmers wood glue or other cheap brand. Tite Bond II I is probably lying the only glue I could recommend for mixing and filling, but even then, I would apply in thin layers and build up. Most all wood glues are water based, most stains are oil based. Mixing the two together would both not work and you would end up with a crappy joint
I speed up this video to 1.25, and you sound normal.
If you want to bypass all the talk about his projects, just go to 11 minutes into the video.
this was a terrific tutorial but I should have watched it before I applied stuff to the cracks between the floorboards of my wooden porch floor. I have large goops of stuff all over. I guess I can only try to sand it now to smooth it out.
Carmel Loughman Did the sanding work?
+Carmel Loughman if you did not get it all up with sand paper, you can use acetone, but be forwarned, it will eat almost any finish. But it will clean up the filler in most instances. Sorry you had trouble.
Any particular reason why you favor this product over wood epoxy lines such as Abatron, SystemThree and PC Products? I realize they are more expensive, but for the low quantity you seem to use in furniture restoration, it would seem worth the added cost to have more flexibility in terms of consistency (liquid, paste, putty), zero shrinkage and strength.
I'm much less knowledgeable than you with respect to woodworking, so I thought I would ask.
I am using this product now, And it is so difficult to use :(
+hotmoon226 it can be tough. Start with a small amount, weigh each application and don't get in a hurry.
I
i love it when you guys ramble on and on
Ken Jones thanks for the positive comments :) do you have an example of how I can do better?
you don't need to be nasty,
The mixing of this is a pain in the rear and needs a better system for home DIY folks......1 to 1 or even 2 to 1 would be way easier.....16:1 is hard to do with a paste for small amounts.
I just used this for the 1st time - yep it smells bad! 20 minutes ago I put it on the decorative wood on a headboard to fill it in. I gunked it in. I sure hope I can sand it to be flush after it dries. I'm redoing a lady's bedroom furniture- I sure hope I didn't screw this up.
FYI the Minwax is a polyester based product. It’s not an epoxy.
So I didn’t read the instructions 😩 Watches a lady using it, but she never showed the mixing parta. I didn’t add the hardener 😭 I “fix” a big crooked gap on a table’s leg. *She scrapes and starts over*... 😣 Reading is so important (lesson learned)
It’s just Bondo auto body filler !!
With a higher minwax price.
Dam kelly
@Robie Billy
I've used both bondo and the minwax filler. Same thing.
This video should be 2 minutes long and could contain the same amount of information.
I wish you would have gotten to using the wood filler sooner. You spent too much time on your projects.
Seems similar to bondo filler
Bondo filler is fine indoors, but outside, the bondo filler will be harder than wood and crack it. This Minwax filler works better with wood in exterior use as it expands with wood under hot conditions.
I bet it is bondo just with the minwax name.
That it is.
84F?! I'd die of heat stroke in my part of the world
fv nordby Plot twist: it's 84 Celsius!
Try working in 105°F......☀️
I started with Woodglut plans.
I wish people making these videos would organize their presentation better. The overall content is very good, but so much back and forth and rambling makes me want to skip ahead.
Not epoxy polyester resin
Im depressed now.
It shows where ever you patched 😖😖
Not once you have sanded and painted it
Not once you have sanded and painted it
Why invest all the time to salvage items like this only to be painted? Left 'au naturale' I get.
Any woodworker worth their salt could clone a pair of these in two days or less.
+Benny Hannah while I understand your vibe, the reality is that reproduction or restoration of antique milworks is not easy or cheap. Customers pay me to maintain what is real and original. I do what I know
There's nothing better than restoring an original antique piece.."any woodworker worth their salt" as you said, knows that.
Because this is restoration not carpentry.
$200+ in wood, plus days of labor.
Or $15 for this, probably he used less them $1 worth. And just a couple hours labor.
84 😱🥵
You lost me Brother. Sorry,too talky.
It's bondo for cars.
Excellent product review. Use, demo, tutorial.
distraction: STOP SUCKING YOUR TEETH WHILE SPEAKING!
It's worse than "ahhh", and passive aggressive.
look it up:
Alveolar, alveopalatal, or postalveolar click