Finally got it wired up after like 5 months haha. I think anybody can do this, scooters are surprisingly simple! I will have some more videos about the Ubox soon, stay tuned John!
@@marinostsalis314 @Marinos Tsalis i turned off Phase filters in Filters under FOC before doing anything (i upgraded the controllers to firmware 5.3 before doing anything) and instantly pressed write after turning off phase filters, that also was before connecting a motor or so. no problems except for one time i've put traction control erpm difference much too low, i'd recommend ERPM difference in traction control around 1000 or 1500 even to be safe, i've put it way lower to test and i had some cutouts and even can disconnects which i couldn't figure out why at first (the motors weren't on the ground so they could spin up freely) once i've put them at 1000 it was fine, and actually 1000 erpm on my motors is like only 3.2 kph difference so that wouldn't be significant slip anyway i've set up motor poles etc before doing anything else tho cuz i know its 15 pole pairs (or 30 poles in VESC) and i know it had 10" in the controller aka 254mm wheel diameter, i also have gear ratio on 1.0 as they're direct drive etc, i ran FOC parameters check via the vesc tool (not wizard) if you use the wizard you must make sure it does not go to default settings edit: i run Flipsky 75100 with Aluminum PCB tho (newest) with ADC no reverse brake on ADC2 i also made a loopkey thingy with an XT90-S as they need an antispark
@@harabas3813 I'm not sure yet. It will definitely add more acceleration. Usually the top speed is dictated by the battery voltage, so theoretically this won't make the top speed higher. But it will let us push about 2x the amps from controller to the motors, so it will get to top speed twice as quick hopefully! I am waiting for one more small adapter piece that Spintend is making me. It will be here soon and I can finish up this project and show some results!
Thank you! This one costs $350 for dual motors. If you compare that to a Vesc branded controller, those cost $400 and they are only single motor, so you need two ($800). That's why I wanted to test this UBox, because it's much more affordable for everyone.
Hey what's up man, how did this turn out in the end? I have a Mantis Pro and can't find many videos on the results. It'd be nice to see some before and after 0 to 30mph times or something to show its a lot quicker and worth the effort to do this. Most of the control boards I see like vesc, seem to be made for longbiards not scooters so that's unfortunate it causes many more problems when making it work for a scooter. The ones that are meant for scooters are usually to weak or too big for my scooter since I don't want it to be external
some esk8 board needs alot of current like 100a per motor or more for torque. With escooter only needs lesser current but torque is insane cause motor is bigger so with vesc its not really a problem! ofcourse powerful esk8 is torquey too, Ive seen doing 40 at 5 second just 2 motors with 4 probably 3 seconds.
@@joaquinninoortega156 no that's not true, the controllers just don't list motor current, they list battery side current i had a pair of 28A JP controllers in my scooter, and i'm running 2 VESC's at 40A battery current and 120A phase current, 90A phase current is about similar as what the original controllers did in the motors in acceleration and climbing power the "45A" controllers in more powerful ones ask 45A max from the battery, but at lower speeds they dump up to like 150A or more into the motors when i use VESC tool and have a motor at 50A i can hold the scooter (not 2 of them, but a single one) by the handlebars these need atleast 90-100A phase current each on a dual motor setup to have decent acceleration, so the majority of VESC's are too weak for these scooter motors i've got a pair of 75200's coming in.
@@BH4x0r The generic controller doesnt tell me how much current it releases from battery or phase wires. Did you run foc detection for that 120a? or that 50? FSESC 75200? good luck with that!! might get hot as soon as possible.
@@joaquinninoortega156 you just pick an approximate motor size (6kg outrunner) and run the wizard, it will do most of the setup for you i don't run the battery current that high, i only run 42 amps per controller @ the battery (cause the battery has a 90A max limit), and at half of the top speed it starts accelerating less (obviously as the max phase current can only be 84A @ 50% duty cycle) and less when you near the top speed, which is basically like all scooters, because of the battery current limit, however low speed torque is better than with the original controllers because those weren't that powerful in the case of my scooter and ScootaGangs' Yume in the case cause hes set it up like a "10kW" scooter (100A at battery and at motor) it'll have the same acceleration through the entire speed range, which is okay but because he can't really go higher on the motor amps on the Ubox it doesn't have the power at lower speeds like an actual 10kW scooter would have. make sure to buy the right one, Makerbase has the same controller (MKSESC 75200 Alu PCB) for cheaper but make sure it's the Alu PCB variant, those are much better. I do have a pair of FSESC 75100 Alu PCB's and the hottest i've seen is 60°C in 32°C outside temperature, with the sun obviously shining on my scooter aswell while riding in the sun, at 120 phase amps per controller. If i had the old shitty black box ones (not Alu PCB) i would get overheating issues no doubt, but the Alu PCB's are amazing comparatively. the 75200 Alu PCB has much thicker wires, twice the mosfets, twice the capacitors and whatnot, i'm sure it'll be fine, the 75100 Alu PCB already has 380A mosfets, and the 75200 Alu PCB thus has double the mosfets per phase The original overheating black box 75100's had some crappy 120A max rated TO220 mosfets (as compared to the 380A TOLL (SMD) fets in the Alu PCB versions) which obviously has a much lower Rds(on) and not the thin legs of a TO220
I would like to use the Ewheel ADC Adapter V2 to attach a monitor and an immobilizer.Is this possible? Please tell me how to connect the motor sensor and power supply. Thanking you in advance.
Sorry if you have questions outside of the scope of my videos then you will need to ask Spintend for assistance. I am not their customer service agent nor do I work for them. I am merely showing proof that their product works as advertised.
Everything is in the scooter ready to fire up but I am trying to figure out the best fuse situation. I am in no rush as I have other scooters to ride anyways. It will get done eventually. Spintend is not very much help either tbh.
![Regenerative Braking - DIY Electric Scooter Part 4 [VESC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OZFbep8wG7E/mqdefault.jpg)
![Regenerative Braking - DIY Electric Scooter Part 4 [VESC]](/img/tr.png)
Okay. I've been sleeping on your skills Bro! I didn't know that you were doing deep dives like this. Great vid.
Finally got it wired up after like 5 months haha. I think anybody can do this, scooters are surprisingly simple! I will have some more videos about the Ubox soon, stay tuned John!
haha, I randomly found your video, I have ti30 (exact same as yume y10) and i baught the ubox v2 already. I'd love to see more videos like these
I have the footage ready of the wiring, just have to edit it still!
Ti30 is actually much more powerful than the Y10, Y10 is 52V 2400W, Ti30 is 60V 5600W, but other than that they're indeed pretty similar
@@BH4x0r Yeah it's the y11 equivalent, not the y10!
@@BH4x0r have you replaced the controller? have you faced any problem?
@@marinostsalis314
@Marinos Tsalis
i turned off Phase filters in Filters under FOC before doing anything (i upgraded the controllers to firmware 5.3 before doing anything) and instantly pressed write after turning off phase filters, that also was before connecting a motor or so.
no problems except for one time i've put traction control erpm difference much too low, i'd recommend ERPM difference in traction control around 1000 or 1500 even to be safe, i've put it way lower to test and i had some cutouts and even can disconnects which i couldn't figure out why at first (the motors weren't on the ground so they could spin up freely)
once i've put them at 1000 it was fine, and actually 1000 erpm on my motors is like only 3.2 kph difference so that wouldn't be significant slip anyway
i've set up motor poles etc before doing anything else tho cuz i know its 15 pole pairs (or 30 poles in VESC) and i know it had 10" in the controller aka 254mm wheel diameter, i also have gear ratio on 1.0 as they're direct drive etc, i ran FOC parameters check via the vesc tool (not wizard)
if you use the wizard you must make sure it does not go to default settings
edit: i run Flipsky 75100 with Aluminum PCB tho (newest) with ADC no reverse brake on ADC2
i also made a loopkey thingy with an XT90-S as they need an antispark
Sweet, if you get it working post a video on all the wiring. I'd like to do it for my Y10 also.
Yes I will definitely get it working and plan on documenting the whole process so you have a step by step guide on what to do!
Can't Wait to see how it goes.if it makes a good enough difference
I'm in.
I think it will make it into a burnout machine....we will see soon!
@@ScootaGang this will add additional top speed for our yume y10 sir? 😅
@@harabas3813 I'm not sure yet. It will definitely add more acceleration. Usually the top speed is dictated by the battery voltage, so theoretically this won't make the top speed higher. But it will let us push about 2x the amps from controller to the motors, so it will get to top speed twice as quick hopefully!
I am waiting for one more small adapter piece that Spintend is making me. It will be here soon and I can finish up this project and show some results!
Not at the “ build my own computer “ level of scooterology YET but looks fun 🤔✌️💕
I didn't think I was there yet either, but here I am hahaha
Nice, part two :p
It's a process, being editted right now.
Is there a way to balance the front and rear wheels? The rear runs fine, but the front is sluggish.
Great video. I can't wait to hear how it rides. How much do these foccers cost?
Thank you! This one costs $350 for dual motors. If you compare that to a Vesc branded controller, those cost $400 and they are only single motor, so you need two ($800). That's why I wanted to test this UBox, because it's much more affordable for everyone.
Hey what's up man, how did this turn out in the end? I have a Mantis Pro and can't find many videos on the results. It'd be nice to see some before and after 0 to 30mph times or something to show its a lot quicker and worth the effort to do this. Most of the control boards I see like vesc, seem to be made for longbiards not scooters so that's unfortunate it causes many more problems when making it work for a scooter. The ones that are meant for scooters are usually to weak or too big for my scooter since I don't want it to be external
some esk8 board needs alot of current like 100a per motor or more for torque. With escooter only needs lesser current but torque is insane cause motor is bigger so with vesc its not really a problem! ofcourse powerful esk8 is torquey too, Ive seen doing 40 at 5 second just 2 motors with 4 probably 3 seconds.
@@joaquinninoortega156 no that's not true, the controllers just don't list motor current, they list battery side current
i had a pair of 28A JP controllers in my scooter, and i'm running 2 VESC's at 40A battery current and 120A phase current, 90A phase current is about similar as what the original controllers did in the motors in acceleration and climbing power
the "45A" controllers in more powerful ones ask 45A max from the battery, but at lower speeds they dump up to like 150A or more into the motors
when i use VESC tool and have a motor at 50A i can hold the scooter (not 2 of them, but a single one) by the handlebars
these need atleast 90-100A phase current each on a dual motor setup to have decent acceleration, so the majority of VESC's are too weak for these scooter motors
i've got a pair of 75200's coming in.
@@BH4x0r The generic controller doesnt tell me how much current it releases from battery or phase wires. Did you run foc detection for that 120a? or that 50?
FSESC 75200? good luck with that!! might get hot as soon as possible.
@@joaquinninoortega156 you just pick an approximate motor size (6kg outrunner) and run the wizard, it will do most of the setup for you
i don't run the battery current that high, i only run 42 amps per controller @ the battery (cause the battery has a 90A max limit), and at half of the top speed it starts accelerating less (obviously as the max phase current can only be 84A @ 50% duty cycle) and less when you near the top speed, which is basically like all scooters, because of the battery current limit, however low speed torque is better than with the original controllers because those weren't that powerful in the case of my scooter and ScootaGangs' Yume
in the case cause hes set it up like a "10kW" scooter (100A at battery and at motor) it'll have the same acceleration through the entire speed range, which is okay but because he can't really go higher on the motor amps on the Ubox it doesn't have the power at lower speeds like an actual 10kW scooter would have.
make sure to buy the right one, Makerbase has the same controller (MKSESC 75200 Alu PCB) for cheaper
but make sure it's the Alu PCB variant, those are much better.
I do have a pair of FSESC 75100 Alu PCB's and the hottest i've seen is 60°C in 32°C outside temperature, with the sun obviously shining on my scooter aswell while riding in the sun, at 120 phase amps per controller.
If i had the old shitty black box ones (not Alu PCB) i would get overheating issues no doubt, but the Alu PCB's are amazing comparatively.
the 75200 Alu PCB has much thicker wires, twice the mosfets, twice the capacitors and whatnot, i'm sure it'll be fine, the 75100 Alu PCB already has 380A mosfets, and the 75200 Alu PCB thus has double the mosfets per phase
The original overheating black box 75100's had some crappy 120A max rated TO220 mosfets (as compared to the 380A TOLL (SMD) fets in the Alu PCB versions) which obviously has a much lower Rds(on) and not the thin legs of a TO220
Hello broski! nice video :)
when's part 2 coming?
Tomorrow!
I would like to use the Ewheel ADC Adapter V2 to attach a monitor and an immobilizer.Is this possible? Please tell me how to connect the motor sensor and power supply. Thanking you in advance.
Sorry if you have questions outside of the scope of my videos then you will need to ask Spintend for assistance. I am not their customer service agent nor do I work for them. I am merely showing proof that their product works as advertised.
Any update on this sir?
Spintend is sending me an adapter so I am waiting on that right now. I'm hoping to get it done in the next month or so!
@@ScootaGang where did you bought this sir?
@@harabas3813 From Spintend! The link is in the video description!
No need to change throttle display sir?
@@ScootaGang how many adc adapter need sir? How about throttle? Because i saw on ali express there is package of that maybe that one i will buy. 😄
Still no update on your project sir? Its been long time. ☺
Everything is in the scooter ready to fire up but I am trying to figure out the best fuse situation. I am in no rush as I have other scooters to ride anyways. It will get done eventually. Spintend is not very much help either tbh.
@@ScootaGang we want to see/watch how you install and check how its goes on the road 😉
@@harabas3813 Made some good progress today, i have everything hooked up. Tuning it tomorrow with Vesc Tool and it should be running finally!
@@ScootaGang nice. Thanks for the update sir. 🤜🤛
Where is Part 2?
ruclips.net/video/AdsUU2RINDU/видео.html
Part 2 ??
Coming soon, just finished the install finally this week!