I freaking love you for this video! I know all of this, I grew up on film cameras and talking exposure/contrasting with my dad, but every new camera that comes out and the more photography advances the more I feel like I’m starting all over again. This is reminded me of the things I already knew and I let get too jumbled up with all of the new information. Thank you
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I bought a DSLR camera for the first time for a photography class I'm taking and I'm disappointed that the photos look so much worse than my cheap phone camera even on auto. I guess there is a lot to learn.
There is a problem here. Your camera meter does not meter light what ever you do. It meters the reflection of light. If the camera meters a black shirt it will over expose to make it 18% Middle Gray (MG). If the scene is predominantly bright the camera will underexpose to make it 18%MG. So the results of the build in camera meter are depending on what ever is in the scene no matter how much light is really there. So this is at best suggesting in to the neighborhood of proper exposure, but not spot on. If you really want consistent lighting you still need a incident light meter because it is the only meter that can meter the light. it self. No camera meter can do that. Using a incident light meter is a lot simpler, faster and less expensive than you might think. Unfortunately nobody is talking about that.and call the inconsistency's of the build in camera meter artsy when it is just simply incorrect guesstimating or say that you can fix it in post. It helps if you really learn how it works. Still with a incident light meter you can create art. You can create it even better because you are in total control of the light and the way you want it to be. You can even repeat it and get the exact same result again and again. Especially when photographing people it is important to get correct skin tone. To be able to do that you need to be consistent in exposure. A light meter does not caere what is in the scene. It only meters the light present and nit the reflections from other surfaces and thus gives you the correct reading. Something to think about. My advice to any beginner is study the triangle of light, get a light meter and a flash. The rest will come later on.
Thanks for the reply Andre. It's difficult to put all of this information into a single RUclips video and have beginners understand it. I choose to put bite-sized bits of information into lessons that are easily understandable. This is a video for complete beginners to be able to read their camera's built-in meter. Not every situation allows for an incident light meter. Typically those are reserved for still applications with precise measurements, like a studio.
I disagree with the first and last part. Using a handheld meter is a lot simpler than a build in camera meter with it's problems due to the design of it. Problems you need to compensate as it meters only reflections it will be off. I use the incident light meter outside and inside. A incident light meter is not just for inside the studio. That is a misconception. People tend to use them in the studio only because of flash metering, but the incident meter also works absolutely beautiful outside in what ever kinda light you might encounter. Go and stand in that light, aim the sphere at the camera position, set the values in the camera and shoot. It really is that simple. It is so complex i can teach it to someone within 5 minutes in a 1 on 1 situation. Why are somany people so afraid of that light meter. It is simple to use. It is fast to use and always spot on and affordable. A new Sekonic 308 flashmate costs $229,- and last more than one or two decades. I understand that you want to give the info compartmentalized and not all at once, but why then not start with the light meter. It takes less time and effort to do that then explaining all you need to take in to account for the build in camera meter. I guess we will not agree in that. I sometimes think people are afraid of light meters and think it is complex and cumbersome to use them. The opposite is truth, but you'll never find out if you do not use them. Even street photographers like Bruce Gilden uses a incident light meter. There is a reason for that. But hey, i'll leave you to it then. @@RunNGunPhoto
I freaking love you for this video!
I know all of this, I grew up on film cameras and talking exposure/contrasting with my dad, but every new camera that comes out and the more photography advances the more I feel like I’m starting all over again.
This is reminded me of the things I already knew and I let get too jumbled up with all of the new information. Thank you
Happy to help :)
these tips are perfect, ty
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What #Photography101 Basics are you struggling with? 🧐📷
✅ *Have you signed up for my Photography Insider Newsletter yet???*
mailchi.mp/dd334d06840b/run-n-gun-newsletter
I bought a DSLR camera for the first time for a photography class I'm taking and I'm disappointed that the photos look so much worse than my cheap phone camera even on auto. I guess there is a lot to learn.
Great tutorial and explanation!!
Happy to help! 🙂
Ive been taking pictures day and night with mine always in 0 i had no ideia what it did so i never touched it 😅
I tough that aperture and iso and frames were the only ones that affected light 😢
Always room for learning! Be sure to check out my Photography 101 playlist! It will help a lot.
There is a problem here. Your camera meter does not meter light what ever you do. It meters the reflection of light. If the camera meters a black shirt it will over expose to make it 18% Middle Gray (MG). If the scene is predominantly bright the camera will underexpose to make it 18%MG. So the results of the build in camera meter are depending on what ever is in the scene no matter how much light is really there. So this is at best suggesting in to the neighborhood of proper exposure, but not spot on. If you really want consistent lighting you still need a incident light meter because it is the only meter that can meter the light. it self. No camera meter can do that. Using a incident light meter is a lot simpler, faster and less expensive than you might think. Unfortunately nobody is talking about that.and call the inconsistency's of the build in camera meter artsy when it is just simply incorrect guesstimating or say that you can fix it in post. It helps if you really learn how it works. Still with a incident light meter you can create art. You can create it even better because you are in total control of the light and the way you want it to be. You can even repeat it and get the exact same result again and again. Especially when photographing people it is important to get correct skin tone. To be able to do that you need to be consistent in exposure. A light meter does not caere what is in the scene. It only meters the light present and nit the reflections from other surfaces and thus gives you the correct reading. Something to think about. My advice to any beginner is study the triangle of light, get a light meter and a flash. The rest will come later on.
Thanks for the reply Andre. It's difficult to put all of this information into a single RUclips video and have beginners understand it.
I choose to put bite-sized bits of information into lessons that are easily understandable.
This is a video for complete beginners to be able to read their camera's built-in meter. Not every situation allows for an incident light meter.
Typically those are reserved for still applications with precise measurements, like a studio.
I disagree with the first and last part. Using a handheld meter is a lot simpler than a build in camera meter with it's problems due to the design of it. Problems you need to compensate as it meters only reflections it will be off. I use the incident light meter outside and inside. A incident light meter is not just for inside the studio. That is a misconception. People tend to use them in the studio only because of flash metering, but the incident meter also works absolutely beautiful outside in what ever kinda light you might encounter. Go and stand in that light, aim the sphere at the camera position, set the values in the camera and shoot. It really is that simple. It is so complex i can teach it to someone within 5 minutes in a 1 on 1 situation. Why are somany people so afraid of that light meter. It is simple to use. It is fast to use and always spot on and affordable. A new Sekonic 308 flashmate costs $229,- and last more than one or two decades. I understand that you want to give the info compartmentalized and not all at once, but why then not start with the light meter. It takes less time and effort to do that then explaining all you need to take in to account for the build in camera meter. I guess we will not agree in that. I sometimes think people are afraid of light meters and think it is complex and cumbersome to use them. The opposite is truth, but you'll never find out if you do not use them. Even street photographers like Bruce Gilden uses a incident light meter. There is a reason for that. But hey, i'll leave you to it then. @@RunNGunPhoto