Yeah, I think on the jump one, he literally has both hands ABOVE his belay device. It has to be a gri-gri... and that's a ton of trust on that piece of gear 🤣
Wow, you'd get your lead pass pulled at my gym if you belayed like that... Standing too far away from the wall, constantly defeating the cam to feed rope, not jumping into the fall, way way too much slack, letting go of the brake side of the rope constantly...
For huge overhangs/roofs more slack can be helpful to avoid hitting the wall. I agree the belayer is sloppy, but without seeing the whole scenario it's hard to judge if this is really too much slack. Another issue is the footwear here. Can't run or break in flip-flops.
The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.
0:02:23 yep let go of that end of the rope o.O this is so bad belaying there should be a warning somewhere. Relying too much on the belay device just gives you bad practices. You really need a solid belayer when working on fear of falling.
I was taught not to stand so far away from the wall when belaying so that I don't run towards it when there is fall (like in this video). In gym it might be easier to move but outdoors you could have rocks on your way.
So much for now, I hope I can get the dynamic belaying video done soon. Until then stay strong and stay safe, and for those heretics who like to skip stuff some quicklinks: Theory: 1:12 Practice: 4:49 Climbers Impression of this Training: 13:25
If you look closely you can actually see, that he didnt let go of the rope, so everything was fine. But even before that you could see that the belayer let go of the rope for a brief moment to reach deeper... bad habits you may develop while using a GriGri
I think the comment was referring to him bringing the brake strand UP rather than keeping it locked in the brake position. If you brought your hand up like that on a tube device, especially during a fall, you'd likely lose control of the rope.
Hey Mani, would be great if you can do falling techniques for bouldering too! A few things that dont get addressed in other tutorials are: falling sideways, falling face first, how to practice, etc.
12:36 not the best shoes for a belayer...attention with the handling of the rope belaying, don't grab the active rope and pasive rope hand down. Very good video and analysis. ;)
@@olivia4394 he also lifted his dead rope hand above the belay device when he got dragged in, you can see it go slack, he must of been using an assisted locking device, if it failed or he was just using an atc the rope would of started feeding and his hand would of been pulled into it. I'd rather go on an auto belay than have him.
Working on it. After falling and breaking my arm i was very afraid to start bouldering and rope climbing again. Actually rope seemed to be less scary than bouldering. Took good 4 months of constant training and pushing myself to do more challeging and not so confortable walls to gain mental confidence and trust in myself. I guess that pushing yourself a bit by bit, observing others, how they move, grip and move towards solution through their success and fails is helping alot. Now I am still scared of some overhangs some tiny grips when they are very high, but I dont end up quiting half way up.
For us, the "no short rope -rule" was very helpful in the beginning. When we started lead-climbing, as soon as we got insecure on the wall the belayer took us on short rope, therefore we did never get into situations were a fall was actually a quite likely possibility. At some point we began to introduce the rule: either stick the route or the move or fall, there is no easy way out. Though as it was quite scary at the beginning, we gained a lot of confidence very very fast!
your videos are so awesome!!! I love how you analyze a lot of the small details people usually miss, or dont think about at all. I've followed a lot of your advice over the past year or so and its helped my climbing so much :] :]
great video! but horrible belayer. after the big fall in the end he really let go the breaking hand off the rope. even with a grigri 2, thats an absolutely NO.FUCKING.GO. apart from that, no trace of dynamic belaying.
I feel like it would have been useful to actually show some dynamic belaying as a comparison to the belayer in the video who - by your own admission - didn’t seem to be doing it all the time. Definitely an interesting topic though, fear of falling is something I definitely struggle with, especially when climbing outdoors.
I am looking for a fall session to show my climbers and belayers how to deal with fear of falling. But this belayer is so bad that I cannot use it. Letting go of the rope, too much rope hanging, not paying attention, trusting the device (yes grigri do fail) are a few of all the mistakes he makes. Would be nice to see good belayers sometimes. I would have the fear of that belayer if I was the climber
Awesome analysis of the belayer and the falls both - I liked the side-by-side video of both the belayer and the climber as these falls were occurring so that it can be seen what is happening during the fall from both perspectives. I think a dedicated video to belaying properly is definitely a great idea, Mani! Thanks for this one! Very valuable information!!!
I'd definitely discourage getting away from the wall while belaying a lead climber. In case of fall the belayer will be pulled almost horizontally towards the wall, resulting in potential injuries in case he loses balance, let alone the chance to lose grip on the rope with a non-blocking device. Better to stay below the first protection and jump accordingly for a soft catch.
Looking forward to the dynamic belaying video. My husband and I just started climbing together this month and we belay for one another at the gym. We’re both learning and I know our belays for one another have been...interesting...at times :D Thanks for all the helpful info, especially your beginner tips.
I agree, this was way too much slack on the last fall. The belayer almost hit his face on the wall. Could you address for next time the weight difference between climber and belayer, please? Especially when the climber is much lighter than the belayer, the heavy belayer should jump more (what's the ideal time to jump?) for a softer catch.
Das Video ist richtig gut! Weiter so! Ich bin gespannt auf das Video in Bezug auf dynamisches Sichern, geh bitte besonders auf das Thema Schlappseil ein! Ich sehe viel zu viel Schlappseil in den Hallen und das meistens noch kombiniert mit einem großen Abstand zur Wand.
recently started lead. While I still have that fear of falling, my belayers have been good, and my falls have been soft (tbf, me outweighing them by a fair amount basically guarantees a soft catch), my main fear is undoing progress and having to climb a hard portion of the route again but with less energy. Though i guess it's good to geet those kinds of reps in
Btw, I love your videos an analysis. I was just starting lead climbing and pondering the need for this kind fear of falling training. I'll think I'll use this pattern.
Great video ! for those who are interesseted about this topic fear of falling you can also check the Day In Nature channel where they did a lot comparison with the differents dynamic catch technics...
I generally enjoy your videos but I found this one to be lacking for the same reasons others have posted. The belayer chosen made a lot of errors. Even though you pointed them out in the video, it would have been a more instructional video if you had gotten a competent belayer. If my partner belayed me like that, I would be finding a new partner.
I certainly enjoyed this video and learned some really good lead climbing things from it, especially on that largest fall, but I struggle greatly with fear of falling from higher bouldering heights and it shuts me down on maneuvers that should be easy. Am I the only one? Could you make a video of getting over this. I climb as high as V5.
Cooles Video! Wenn du Sturztraining gegen die Angst machst, musst du es regelmässig tun und über einen langen Zeitraum. Danke fürs sharen und auch nen Dank an die Kollegen, das du es veröffentlichen darfst!:)
I was belaying a friend of mine today who's an absolute beast and weighs 30kgs more than me.. Was my first time ever flying feet-first to the quickdraw ;)
It's not really too much of an issue. I just make my best effort to jump back into my harness when he falls so that I can create a little more weight on my end. I make a pretty soft catch though! ;)
With respect to the last wiper, I hope you guys did realy know what you were doing! Anyway, appreciate your effort and now please teach the belayer to become better than just holding the grigri in his hands. Btw, did he use a Grigri? Happened to me when I was falling my girlfriend was pulled towards the rock and she tried to protect herselfe from impact by taking hands of the Grigri against the wall (like the guy in the video) which is a spontaneous reaction. Not having a Grigri here would have ended pretty badly for me...cheers!
Yes, he used a Grigri, which is what I always recommend doing. What you described is quite common and yet another reason why a Grigri outplays many other belaying devices.
Mani the Monkey And now I will get the Grigri 2+, since having this anti-panic function on board turned out to be important for (at least) me ;-) Once during lowering my buddy, I have had the rope kinked and the braking rope somehow got out of my right hand. For whatever reason I pulled the handle fully back ... and my buddy droped on the deck.... luckily from one meter above. The 2+ will preclude this. I have tested this function and it works fine for me.
If you pull the grigri+ lever back completely (beyond the anti panic position) it will open again and the rope will keep sliding through. Not a good feature in my opinion. In my opinion the best belaying device out there is still the Grigri2. I should actually make a video discussing the topic of belaying devices a bit more in depth.
Mani the Monkey Hey Mani, Well, this is what they said in the www. That it will open again by pulling the lever further back. Yes it does so. But, when I tested it, I recognized that you need significant more force to re-open it. In my opinion it works pretty fine. Did you use the grigri+ by yourself?
Well Mani, this may be a malfunction or damage to your grigri+ then. Mine will not open again past the panic function. HOWEVER! I would recommend using ropes of at least 9mm in it, since the thinner ones (could test this with my dad's 8.5mm rope) will not trigger an auto block, especially when they are new. In that case you can, under no circumstances, let go of the brake rope, which you could do with thicker ropes, but still should never do.
If you want to know what happened to a pro-climber taking a huge fall and belayed statically (belayer is lashed to the ground, so dynamic belaying is not possible), check this out: Dave Macleod climbing/falling on Rhapsody. m.ruclips.net/video/5nnDliljwqE/видео.html Dave got his ankle injured due to a massive impact to the wall...
Good Topic. Good Falls, but very bad Belayer! Your Comments are good but i wish next time there would be examples of good dynamic belaying. But i have to say: i like yout documentations about climbing! Please go on!
Gutes Video und auch schön zu sehen mit den verschiedenen Kamera einstellungen. Aber beim letzten Sturz hat doch der Belayer um sich selber zu schützen das Seil hoch gehalten Also eigentlich wieder frei gegeben.. Wäre da der Kletterer nicht bei einem normalen Sicherungsgerät nach unten durch gestürzt. LG und weiter so
Have you changed the rope after each fall? At least changed the ends? There is a huge difference if you take a second fall shortly after the first in the same end of the rope. It is still stretched from the catch before and therefor isn't as elastic as possible. And Thorsten is gaining some hate ;)
Everyone chatting beef about the belayer but i think he is doing that on purpose so the climber takes a bigger fall and then the climber gets used to it more
I usually watch videos in x2 speed to save time and I turn on subtitles in case I can't hear what the speaker is saying. Boy was I laughing when the video came to the part when you guys were speaking German and the automatic subtitles continued in English. This was Joe Biden level of majestic gibberish
I have never had any problem with fear of falling or at least if i do it goes away after 1 test fall BUT! I still get nurvous about taking ground falls after 1 first bold or while clipping a low 2nd or 3rd draw. Is there any way that you can deal with the fear that there is a very real chance you will hit the ground if you fall cliping the second bold.
Hardly. Also depends a lot. Outdoors the second bolt is often quite far up, even the first one might be. A possible, yet dangerous, idea for a gym might be to put a crash pad in place and take some falls with just the first draw clipped. This requires a very very good belayer you can trust (no dynamic catches, ideally the belayer should exceed you in weight) and a very conservative approach, meaning falling very near the Quickdraw initially and slowly increasing fall height. A better alternative is to jump on the route in top rope, check out the moves and build the confidence. I have led several routes without knowing even the grade beforehand, just by looking at them and feeling confident enough. Yet, there have been some sketchy situations in which the route turned out to be harder than expected. I would say it is a matter of experience and teamwork. If you can trust the belayer and the fall will be controlled (as in you can announce it) there shouldn't be too much harm coming your way. Just stay rational and calculate your fall before making the decision to climb it.
Petzl made a video titled "The World's Worst Belayer" - they recently found this video and facepalmed for wasting all that money. He's wearing FLIP-FLOPS ffs...
Oh wow wusste nicht das du Deutsch sprichst. Ich fände es noch cool wenn du noch ein paar ziemlich perfekte Stürze mit dynamischem auffangen zeigen könntest.
Hi Mani. Vielleicht kannst du dann auch noch was zur richtigen Position des Sicherers sagen. Wann sollte dieser unter dem Kletterrer stehen, wann daneben, wann weiter bzw. wann weniger weit von der Wand entfernt. Das würde mich als Sichernden ziemlich weiter bringen. Ein Paar Worte zum Schluss: Deine Videos gefallen mir echt gut und habe mich bisher echt weiter gebracht. Dafür vielen lieben Dank. :)
There is literally no situation where the belayer should be giving out so much slack that the rope is resting on the ground. The only reason Torstein doesn't hit the wall on the last fall is because it's like 30 meters away from him to begin with.
Hey Mani, great video, but what if for example: I'm a belayer and my weight is like 15-20kg less then my climbing partner, and when he falls i already got pulled to the wall really fast. are the catching jumps really nesessery then? or just more dangerous for my own.
That's a lot of difference. An Ohm could indeed help in that situation, or for example z-clipping in the neighbour route (at the start). No need to jump then, it's actually quite a lot easier to belay dynamically when you are lighter than your partner (and harder the other way around unfortunately).
The way your friend on the floor is belaying would never be allowed where i climb, way too loose with the rope, only holding it with a few fingers on top of the grigri. Never rely on those things, always a full hand on the dead rope.
How to beat the fear of falling?
1. Find a belayer that knows what they are doing.
Yeah I would NEVER trust that belayer!
What a terrible video to demo this. Too much blah and bad belaying?
Today : A tutorial on how to roast the belayer
I think you could do with doing this video again with an actual trained belayer
Just getting into climbing, and this was a great video on how not to belay. Actually learned things to avoid.
I wasn't afraid of falling but now I am...
This video should be an instructional how NOT to belay. If his wasn't a GriGri that climber would be dead.
Look at the last fall, he lifts his right hand up along with the rope
Yeah, I think on the jump one, he literally has both hands ABOVE his belay device. It has to be a gri-gri... and that's a ton of trust on that piece of gear 🤣
Belayer not tunneling but letting go the rope completely…ouch. Take a course
How the beat the fear of falling with the worst belayer one can find xD
Joe H If you don't have anything to argue with....pick on grammar, that should teach him. You showed him good.
Wow, you'd get your lead pass pulled at my gym if you belayed like that... Standing too far away from the wall, constantly defeating the cam to feed rope, not jumping into the fall, way way too much slack, letting go of the brake side of the rope constantly...
seriously, this guy was horrible
Came here to get over falling... took notes on how NOT to belay 🤣
@Otto Couper poor climbing etiquette
How do you feed rope with a gri gri? Floss? in my gym i was taught to use a thumb on the cam when you're feeding out slack.
The fall at 4:26 gave me a heart attack omg he had no control
the slack in that last fall looks pretty ridiculous to me. if he was my belayer, I'd be like wtf are you doing?
sqlb3rn segfavlt thought exactly the same thing! I see this all the time on youtube...they give WAY to much slack, dangerous in theory(possible deck)
For huge overhangs/roofs more slack can be helpful to avoid hitting the wall. I agree the belayer is sloppy, but without seeing the whole scenario it's hard to judge if this is really too much slack.
Another issue is the footwear here. Can't run or break in flip-flops.
He is also standing WAAAY too far from the wall
seriously he made that guy drop a lot of feet before catching
That was the entire point of the fall.
The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.
can you show someone that belays correctly on a video about falling and belaying please?
If you can take falls without fear with that belayer then you’re probably good to begin soloing
not much difference lmaoo
@@BenM Brilliant answer. That made me laugh!
My gym would revoke a belay card for pulling something like what you see at 11:38
That look scary. But if I knew he would get me it would be fun.
0:02:23 yep let go of that end of the rope o.O this is so bad belaying there should be a warning somewhere. Relying too much on the belay device just gives you bad practices. You really need a solid belayer when working on fear of falling.
I was taught not to stand so far away from the wall when belaying so that I don't run towards it when there is fall (like in this video). In gym it might be easier to move but outdoors you could have rocks on your way.
I think the belayer could use a lesson on proper technique while using a grigri and catching a fall properly so he doesn't faceplant into the wall..
I have a fear of falling. And - although I liked the video - it has just heightened my fear
seriously - watching this belayer gives me anxiety.
Right 🤣 just took my first lessons on lead, this was scarier.
Imagine setting a route in that place
Thanks for posting and commenting. Neither climber nor belayer are actually knowing what they are doing. Quite scary.
So much for now, I hope I can get the dynamic belaying video done soon. Until then stay strong and stay safe, and for those heretics who like to skip stuff some quicklinks:
Theory: 1:12
Practice: 4:49
Climbers Impression of this Training: 13:25
Mani the Monkey What gym is this?
4:28 lucky that was a GriGri hahaha
If you look closely you can actually see, that he didnt let go of the rope, so everything was fine. But even before that you could see that the belayer let go of the rope for a brief moment to reach deeper... bad habits you may develop while using a GriGri
I think the comment was referring to him bringing the brake strand UP rather than keeping it locked in the brake position. If you brought your hand up like that on a tube device, especially during a fall, you'd likely lose control of the rope.
Adam Lewis Spot on ;)
indeed, he was too far from the wall. he got thrown off balance.
Hey Mani, would be great if you can do falling techniques for bouldering too! A few things that dont get addressed in other tutorials are: falling sideways, falling face first, how to practice, etc.
12:36 not the best shoes for a belayer...attention with the handling of the rope belaying, don't grab the active rope and pasive rope hand down.
Very good video and analysis. ;)
Geez, that last fall made me shiver.
What a terrible belayer
Immediately notice that, too! WTF
I'm a novice climber and immediately could point out what the belayer was doing wrong. Terrible job, he was quite literally doing nothing but waiting.
n3v3rd1e it makes me anxious to watch him!
n3v3rd1e so much slack and so far from the wall!
@@olivia4394 he also lifted his dead rope hand above the belay device when he got dragged in, you can see it go slack, he must of been using an assisted locking device, if it failed or he was just using an atc the rope would of started feeding and his hand would of been pulled into it. I'd rather go on an auto belay than have him.
Working on it. After falling and breaking my arm i was very afraid to start bouldering and rope climbing again. Actually rope seemed to be less scary than bouldering. Took good 4 months of constant training and pushing myself to do more challeging and not so confortable walls to gain mental confidence and trust in myself. I guess that pushing yourself a bit by bit, observing others, how they move, grip and move towards solution through their success and fails is helping alot. Now I am still scared of some overhangs some tiny grips when they are very high, but I dont end up quiting half way up.
I love learning from you. Thank you. I’m a retired person learning to climb.
For us, the "no short rope -rule" was very helpful in the beginning. When we started lead-climbing, as soon as we got insecure on the wall the belayer took us on short rope, therefore we did never get into situations were a fall was actually a quite likely possibility.
At some point we began to introduce the rule: either stick the route or the move or fall, there is no easy way out. Though as it was quite scary at the beginning, we gained a lot of confidence very very fast!
2:25 casually throwing away the "bremsseil" props for that
edit: ok he is doing it all the time props for that
your videos are so awesome!!! I love how you analyze a lot of the small details people usually miss, or dont think about at all. I've followed a lot of your advice over the past year or so and its helped my climbing so much :] :]
Besides the issues mentioned, the belayer is also way too far away from the wall.
great video! but horrible belayer. after the big fall in the end he really let go the breaking hand off the rope. even with a grigri 2, thats an absolutely NO.FUCKING.GO. apart from that, no trace of dynamic belaying.
I personally don’t have a fear of falling but definitely will be recommending this video to a lot of people
I feel like it would have been useful to actually show some dynamic belaying as a comparison to the belayer in the video who - by your own admission - didn’t seem to be doing it all the time. Definitely an interesting topic though, fear of falling is something I definitely struggle with, especially when climbing outdoors.
Lieber Mani, könntest du auch ein Video über "Fear of falling in bouldering" machen? Es wäre super, servus!
I second that! Vielleicht mit richtiger und falscher Spotting Technik?
Holy crap, I hope I never have a belayer that incompetent.
I am looking for a fall session to show my climbers and belayers how to deal with fear of falling. But this belayer is so bad that I cannot use it. Letting go of the rope, too much rope hanging, not paying attention, trusting the device (yes grigri do fail) are a few of all the mistakes he makes. Would be nice to see good belayers sometimes. I would have the fear of that belayer if I was the climber
Thorsten still looks quite relaxed even though he is so full of hate!
Awesome analysis of the belayer and the falls both - I liked the side-by-side video of both the belayer and the climber as these falls were occurring so that it can be seen what is happening during the fall from both perspectives. I think a dedicated video to belaying properly is definitely a great idea, Mani! Thanks for this one! Very valuable information!!!
I'd definitely discourage getting away from the wall while belaying a lead climber. In case of fall the belayer will be pulled almost horizontally towards the wall, resulting in potential injuries in case he loses balance, let alone the chance to lose grip on the rope with a non-blocking device. Better to stay below the first protection and jump accordingly for a soft catch.
After seeing this belayer, I can confirm my fear of falling has increased :D
And that’s the last time they climbed together!
Ooft I wish the belayer jumped into the catches a bit more that looks painful
Looking forward to the dynamic belaying video. My husband and I just started climbing together this month and we belay for one another at the gym. We’re both learning and I know our belays for one another have been...interesting...at times :D Thanks for all the helpful info, especially your beginner tips.
I agree, this was way too much slack on the last fall. The belayer almost hit his face on the wall.
Could you address for next time the weight difference between climber and belayer, please?
Especially when the climber is much lighter than the belayer, the heavy belayer should jump more (what's the ideal time to jump?) for a softer catch.
Das Video ist richtig gut! Weiter so! Ich bin gespannt auf das Video in Bezug auf dynamisches Sichern, geh bitte besonders auf das Thema Schlappseil ein! Ich sehe viel zu viel Schlappseil in den Hallen und das meistens noch kombiniert mit einem großen Abstand zur Wand.
When the belayer throws the rope away with break hand :D
Grigiri or not, that last catch could have been lethal. Never put your brake hand above the belay device when someone falls.
recently started lead. While I still have that fear of falling, my belayers have been good, and my falls have been soft (tbf, me outweighing them by a fair amount basically guarantees a soft catch), my main fear is undoing progress and having to climb a hard portion of the route again but with less energy. Though i guess it's good to geet those kinds of reps in
Thumbs up for the video. Very interesting and useful. Thanks for it!
Btw, I love your videos an analysis. I was just starting lead climbing and pondering the need for this kind fear of falling training. I'll think I'll use this pattern.
Amazing video !!! I wish I saw it before going climbing out XD
Top video as per. I love how even a belayer can be dynamic!
Great video ! for those who are interesseted about this topic fear of falling you can also check the Day In Nature channel where they did a lot comparison with the differents dynamic catch technics...
This belayer made my heart race and hands sweat 🤣
I generally enjoy your videos but I found this one to be lacking for the same reasons others have posted. The belayer chosen made a lot of errors. Even though you pointed them out in the video, it would have been a more instructional video if you had gotten a competent belayer. If my partner belayed me like that, I would be finding a new partner.
Heftig! Cooles Training!
I am even more scared of falling after watching this video 😱
Great video, dude! Greets from The Netherlands!
I certainly enjoyed this video and learned some really good lead climbing things from it, especially on that largest fall, but I struggle greatly with fear of falling from higher bouldering heights and it shuts me down on maneuvers that should be easy. Am I the only one? Could you make a video of getting over this. I climb as high as V5.
If you still climb I bet you have moved on past V5 😊
Cooles Video! Wenn du Sturztraining gegen die Angst machst, musst du es regelmässig tun und über einen langen Zeitraum. Danke fürs sharen und auch nen Dank an die Kollegen, das du es veröffentlichen darfst!:)
I was belaying a friend of mine today who's an absolute beast and weighs 30kgs more than me.. Was my first time ever flying feet-first to the quickdraw ;)
Lachlan Nossiter
How do you deal with the weight difference? Z, Ohm, weight or just use your feet jumping towards the wall?
It's not really too much of an issue. I just make my best effort to jump back into my harness when he falls so that I can create a little more weight on my end. I make a pretty soft catch though! ;)
With respect to the last wiper, I hope you guys did realy know what you were doing!
Anyway, appreciate your effort and now please teach the belayer to become better than just holding the grigri in his hands.
Btw, did he use a Grigri?
Happened to me when I was falling my girlfriend was pulled towards the rock and she tried to protect herselfe from impact by taking hands of the Grigri against the wall (like the guy in the video) which is a spontaneous reaction. Not having a Grigri here would have ended pretty badly for me...cheers!
Yes, he used a Grigri, which is what I always recommend doing. What you described is quite common and yet another reason why a Grigri outplays many other belaying devices.
Mani the Monkey
And now I will get the Grigri 2+, since having this anti-panic function on board turned out to be important for (at least) me ;-)
Once during lowering my buddy, I have had the rope kinked and the braking rope somehow got out of my right hand. For whatever reason I pulled the handle fully back ... and my buddy droped on the deck.... luckily from one meter above.
The 2+ will preclude this. I have tested this function and it works fine for me.
If you pull the grigri+ lever back completely (beyond the anti panic position) it will open again and the rope will keep sliding through. Not a good feature in my opinion. In my opinion the best belaying device out there is still the Grigri2. I should actually make a video discussing the topic of belaying devices a bit more in depth.
Mani the Monkey
Hey Mani,
Well, this is what they said in the www. That it will open again by pulling the lever further back. Yes it does so. But, when I tested it, I recognized that you need significant more force to re-open it. In my opinion it works pretty fine.
Did you use the grigri+ by yourself?
Well Mani, this may be a malfunction or damage to your grigri+ then. Mine will not open again past the panic function. HOWEVER! I would recommend using ropes of at least 9mm in it, since the thinner ones (could test this with my dad's 8.5mm rope) will not trigger an auto block, especially when they are new. In that case you can, under no circumstances, let go of the brake rope, which you could do with thicker ropes, but still should never do.
wth? lesson number 1: NEVER let go of the rope
Ouch! Hard catch.
I'm only spooked of falling when bouldering.
If you want to know what happened to a pro-climber taking a huge fall and belayed statically (belayer is lashed to the ground, so dynamic belaying is not possible), check this out:
Dave Macleod climbing/falling on Rhapsody.
m.ruclips.net/video/5nnDliljwqE/видео.html
Dave got his ankle injured due to a massive impact to the wall...
Nice video Mani! What gym is this?
that last fall was so big! i would have been so afraids!
Good Topic. Good Falls, but very bad Belayer! Your Comments are good but i wish next time there would be examples of good dynamic belaying. But i have to say: i like yout documentations about climbing! Please go on!
Very useful video like always ❤
With that much slack if the quickdraw fails for some reason you are dead, especially if you fall while clipping
Gut gemachtes Video.
Gutes Video und auch schön zu sehen mit den verschiedenen Kamera einstellungen. Aber beim letzten Sturz hat doch der Belayer um sich selber zu schützen das Seil hoch gehalten Also eigentlich wieder frei gegeben.. Wäre da der Kletterer nicht bei einem normalen Sicherungsgerät nach unten durch gestürzt. LG und weiter so
Have you changed the rope after each fall?
At least changed the ends?
There is a huge difference if you take a second fall shortly after the first in the same end of the rope. It is still stretched from the catch before and therefor isn't as elastic as possible.
And Thorsten is gaining some hate ;)
Why did the climber skip so many clips!!!???? Especially at fall 5???
Cool video! How would you suggest training away fear of falling when on a bouldering wall?
How is the extra slack gonna make the fall more dynamic? It's not logical
I cannot watch this video looking on this belayer!
Everyone chatting beef about the belayer but i think he is doing that on purpose so the climber takes a bigger fall and then the climber gets used to it more
Shit i dont trust anyone in general i guess ill have to stick with bouldering but this gym looks awesome and I wanna go high in pretty places.
for those of you hating on the belayer...they were doing that on purpose for fall training...
Nice vid Mani
If someone was belaying me like that I'd become afraid of falling again...
I wonder how that belayer would handle reverso....
Looks like an awesome space. Can you link their website or Instagram please? As always, an insightful and helpful video!
What are you going to play cars or trains
Sweaty hands just by watching that last fall :D
I usually watch videos in x2 speed to save time and I turn on subtitles in case I can't hear what the speaker is saying. Boy was I laughing when the video came to the part when you guys were speaking German and the automatic subtitles continued in English. This was Joe Biden level of majestic gibberish
I have never had any problem with fear of falling or at least if i do it goes away after 1 test fall BUT! I still get nurvous about taking ground falls after 1 first bold or while clipping a low 2nd or 3rd draw. Is there any way that you can deal with the fear that there is a very real chance you will hit the ground if you fall cliping the second bold.
Hardly. Also depends a lot. Outdoors the second bolt is often quite far up, even the first one might be.
A possible, yet dangerous, idea for a gym might be to put a crash pad in place and take some falls with just the first draw clipped. This requires a very very good belayer you can trust (no dynamic catches, ideally the belayer should exceed you in weight) and a very conservative approach, meaning falling very near the Quickdraw initially and slowly increasing fall height.
A better alternative is to jump on the route in top rope, check out the moves and build the confidence. I have led several routes without knowing even the grade beforehand, just by looking at them and feeling confident enough. Yet, there have been some sketchy situations in which the route turned out to be harder than expected.
I would say it is a matter of experience and teamwork. If you can trust the belayer and the fall will be controlled (as in you can announce it) there shouldn't be too much harm coming your way. Just stay rational and calculate your fall before making the decision to climb it.
holy shit is this a 101 on how not to belay
Petzl made a video titled "The World's Worst Belayer" - they recently found this video and facepalmed for wasting all that money.
He's wearing FLIP-FLOPS ffs...
Oh wow wusste nicht das du Deutsch sprichst. Ich fände es noch cool wenn du noch ein paar ziemlich perfekte Stürze mit dynamischem auffangen zeigen könntest.
Werde daran definitiv im dynamic belaying video arbeiten.
Hi Mani. Vielleicht kannst du dann auch noch was zur richtigen Position des Sicherers sagen. Wann sollte dieser unter dem Kletterrer stehen, wann daneben, wann weiter bzw. wann weniger weit von der Wand entfernt. Das würde mich als Sichernden ziemlich weiter bringen.
Ein Paar Worte zum Schluss: Deine Videos gefallen mir echt gut und habe mich bisher echt weiter gebracht. Dafür vielen lieben Dank. :)
There is literally no situation where the belayer should be giving out so much slack that the rope is resting on the ground. The only reason Torstein doesn't hit the wall on the last fall is because it's like 30 meters away from him to begin with.
this is terrifying.... I guess ill just keep bouldering instead
Lol, just realised that the climber has the same chalk bag as me :)
@12:38 is he releasing the brake??? I see he has a Grigri but I doubt that would've held the fall with an ATC or tuber
Hey Mani, great video, but what if for example: I'm a belayer and my weight is like 15-20kg less then my climbing partner, and when he falls i already got pulled to the wall really fast. are the catching jumps really nesessery then? or just more dangerous for my own.
Get an Edelrid Ohm then. Yes it is somewhat expensive, but it really benefits lighter belayers.
That's a lot of difference. An Ohm could indeed help in that situation, or for example z-clipping in the neighbour route (at the start). No need to jump then, it's actually quite a lot easier to belay dynamically when you are lighter than your partner (and harder the other way around unfortunately).
The way your friend on the floor is belaying would never be allowed where i climb, way too loose with the rope, only holding it with a few fingers on top of the grigri. Never rely on those things, always a full hand on the dead rope.