I will be undergoing this job on my R53 shortly. This is the 3rd or 4th job I've done on the Mini using your videos, and I really can't thank you enough. I will head over to your Fundly and send a donation. Also, I see most the Minis you work on have WA plates. If you ever see a dark blue R53 with no stripes and yellow front R56 brake calipers, thats me!
Well presented and easy to follow in a quick amount of time - Thank you. the tip about using a wood screw to grasp the old seal is priceless, and saved me much frustration.
Thank you so much for providing these detailed service videos for the gen1’s. The audio is clear, the visuals give a clear perspective, and the reference materials are thorough. Kudos.
THANKS! Purchased that same damper from Amazon (but I only paid $150), then I saw this install video that made it even easier to do this replacement job on my mini, and feel better about my decision on the viscous damper. Went down to Ace Hardware to grab the puller bolts before the tool showed up, but found the thread pitch were listed incorrectly in the video. Figured it out and got a small assortment that worked out just fine. Thanks for the video! It makes life easier when working on a mini. I did try to donate but there's no PayPal option. I'll see if privacy card app works but my router is set up to block Facebook completely so I'm not sure if that will be an issue.
Sorry, there are two pulley sizes for Gen 1. Bolts might be different size for one or the other. See end of video, there is a link to virtual tip jar. Thanks if you figure it out! What is "privacy card app"?
@@ModMINI the Privacy card plug-in or app is similar to say PayPal, in that your credit card number is only exposed to Privacy, and they replace your credit card numbers with a one time use number. If you have: PayPal, Cash (similar to venmo, but supplied by Square) it would be easier, and Cash is instantaneous. I'm not familiar with the tip jar system you are using. I try not to use my credit card online without being familiar with the company.
Just purchased a r53 s. Have to replace the timing chain. Your videos are great. I have the death rattle. Tried the chain tensioner, quieted it down a bit, not enough. Thanks again.
My stock pulley bolts are actually m6x1.0. I had previously said m5x0.8 but there was rust build up which made the m6x1.00 harder to screw in. After tapping they went in nicely. I have 05 r53. Had the hardest time looking for m6x1.25 bolts. Don’t think they actually exist for the common people. On the bright side I learned lot about bolts.
Thanks for the detailed video . The trick inserting the different length bolts into the shaft crank shaft made it so much easier. I had to use longer M6 screws as the 50mm could not accommodate washers.
I just did this job this weekend. My guidance is to get a M12x1.75x90 (not 100), 90 is long enough when reinstlaling the harmonic balancer. 100 seemed to long and bottomed out, and i was worried about damaging the threads on the crank itself. Another tip is I removed the harmonic balancer bolt with a battery operated impact, but when putting it back on I would recommend using hand tools while having someone step on the brake, and if a manual car put in in 6th gear...it went right on with hand tools, the impact seemed like overkill to me and risked damaging the threads on crank
You sir have always got the best Diy on these mini's Thank you.:) My one came off lucky for the belt stayed on to get me home . :( Same time doing the SC. Also just donated keep them Awesome video's coming Thanks again :)
Just curious, the directions in the box for the SFI crank pulley show that you must heat up the pulley in the oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit before installing. Why was this step skipped?
I have a longer bolt to pull it on to the crankshaft. I must have explained that in video? If you don't have that, yes, heat it up and it will slide right on.
Hey, I’m planning to dk thai job in my r53 on saturday, would applying heat to the new pulley be a good idea to help it slip on/get going? Thanks for all your videos!
What pulley puller could I use to remove the PRW pulley like the one you installed in the video? The three holes are way far apart that the spread of the pulley puller cannot reach all three holes.
Nice video,,,, a question ,,, before you do this job, did you empty all the oil from the engine of the car ? Or can you remove the crankshaft seal without emptying the oil ?
I am considering doing this job on my R53. The forums are filled with people who say that if your MINI has not had the harmonic balancer replaced at some point in its life, then it is overdue for replacement even without symptoms or trouble codes. Also, belt manufacturers seem to suggest that idler pulleys and tensioners should be changed with the belt. What do you think of these points? And do you think region plays a roll in degradation of these parts?
If you are doing your own labor, don't bother with the idler pulleys. Might be good idea to replace harmonic balancer on the 2005-2006 cars which you can't see the rubber degradation from the front of the pulley.
Help!! I have followed these steps to the letter and am using the same pulley in the video. I have managed to get the new pulley on part of the way, but just not enough for the stock pulley bolt to catch and thread the rest of the way. I am using a M12 x 1.75 at 100mm length. I am using an impact wrench, but I just can't get it to seed all the way. What am I doing wrong?
I need help. I have a 06 R53 S whenever I put the key in the ignition and try to crank it nothing happens no light on dash or anything it like it doesn’t have no power. I checked the battery it’s good. Where do I go from here.
With the new pulley you had to use the longer bolt first to slide it on I'm asking because I have the same one and it slides right up so I was able use the regular short bolt by itself @Modmini
@7':06" You said,"that's what you smelled." I wonder if I have the same problem w/my '06 R53. I always thought what I was smelling was supercharger oil burning under hard acceleration whenever I get on the freeway.
Since you put the car in 6th to remove the crank bolt does one have to put it in Reverse gear to torque the bolt? Also why 6th gear as opposed to 1st or 2nd?
@@ModMINI My r53 has an aftermarket exhaust and 15% pulley what is the best way to make more power and if i go down to a 17% pulley how do i maintain engine temperatures My mini is a daily driver and i don't mind spending a bit extra to keep it reliable I really appreciate your advice and your channel has helped me out more then you can imagine thank you very much
Thank you for video, my car just threw that p1688 code and I couldn’t figure out the reason. Now I know, your bolt on Amazon is not populating, can u provide the link again please, and the belt tensioner oils locate as well
Hey mod mini, I know this is a long shot but I was wondering if you had and suggestions on the crankshaft. I’m rebuilding the engine of my 2005 R53. It is at the machinist now. I was wondering if you would use the stock crank or upgrade to something. This is in my track R53, so I am trying to get as much HP out of the engine without putting too much stress on it. Also if you had any suggestions on pistons. I was planning to do oversized, 77.5mm, from JE. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
The bolts are M6x1.0, not M6x1.25 - sorry - I can't annotate the video. How to replace crankshaft pulley and front seal on a 2002-2008 MINI Cooper S R53/R52 Supercharged. Similar procedure for 2002-2008 MINI Cooper Base non-supercharged. Front main seal harmonic balancer are alternate terms.You may need this if you have P1688 OBD code and burning smell. MINI Cooper Tools: amzn.to/2Eb1S6C Buy the SFI pulley here: amzn.to/2PgFmu5 ATI pulley: amzn.to/2QwSBqE OEM equivalent pulley: amzn.to/2BZ7HBe Belt (stock supercharger pulley): amzn.to/2QwQtza Belt (15% supercharger pulley):amzn.to/2BY69Ye Crank seal: amzn.to/2RudeoF Crank bolt: amzn.to/2IH4NCo Tip Jar: fundly.com/mod-mini-tip-jar
I think I stripped the threads inside the crank when I was taking the pulley off. How can I fix it short of changing the crankshaft?.. Your video is excellent, I just managed to screw up anyway.
Hello. Ive writen to you im the past. love the videos. My duaghter wants a JCW 2013 auto copper. Ivealways heard to stay away from the auto transmissions. Is that year ok.
The early CVT automatics were the ones to stay away from, as well as 2010 and older 6 speed AISIN which might require a valve body prematurely (should be no more costly than a clutch job but commonly misdiagnosed). I think the later ones are fine .
Would this cause possible electrical issues as well? I’m having dash lights and speedo/tach needles acting all crazy. My brain tells me it’s a bad alternator based on what’s happening, but I just had that replaced back in May/June. The engine runs just fine, but I get warning lights that come on, then temp gauge shoots up…..car is not overheating. I have noticed a burning smell, but only under hard acceleration. I’m at a loss trying to figure out what could be causing this. Someone in a FB Mini group suggested balancer going out or alternator. Since I know it’s not the alternator, don’t know where to start first. If anyone could point me in the right direction or have any advice, I’d greatly appreciate it.
Dude, great stuff you post, super well done. After pulling the pulley on my 03 r53 I found my crankshaft has a groove just in front of the main front seal. I didn't see this mentioned in any vids. It looks like maybe a groove that would take an o-ring that the slight bevel on the back of the pulley hub might land against - should there be something like that in the groove?
Is it possible to drive the pulley on too far? I put the prw pulley on and seem to have bottomed out my bolt at 85lbs and have a small gap between bolt head and pulley.
Hi thanks for your video, I'm planning on swapping out the crank pulley for an R53 with an automatic gearbox. Is there a good way to hold the crank in place while I torque the crank pulley to spec? Thanks again.
Wait . U said take off wheel well liner but u didnt say nothing about taking off the fender but it looks like u took off the fender . So do i have to take off the fender?
Had mine replaced 1 month ago. First started going with a cricket sound and then out of an idle acceleration it failed. It did throw two codes: P1688 P2270 Replaced with a stick one since it was the fastest way to get the car on the road again.
@@ModMINI Sorry - I meant the balancer. Can I reuse the balancer if it's ok? Will pulling it off with the puller damage it? I just want to change the timing cover gasket and main seal.
Could u break down the bolts needed again. I got the M12x1.50 but the M6 x? and how long? Also you mention a M10 also how long? Thank you? Also the M5 is what screws in the balancer right?
I just did this job and used Dorman Flanged M6-1.0-35mm hex bolts I picked up at O Reilly Auto. Part # 980-220D. They are grade 10.9 and worked perfectly for me.
Sir, would you please check the size for the "puller bolts" that screw into the crankshaft pulley? You say they are M6 with 1.25 thread pitch but that does not exist. I have called numerous online bolt companies and they say it's probably a M8 bolt that your referring to. If I am wrong and you have identified the bolt correctly, where do you get these? Looking forward to hearing back soon. Thank you!
Just watched another video and the M6 bolts are 1.0 Question, when you place the M10 bolts in do you screw them in or just leave "loose" ? If lose, are you concerned the pressure from the M10 bolt may damage the threads with pulling out the pulley?@@ModMINI
It's simple. Engage as many threads as possible without damaging the bolts or the threads. it doesn't matter if they are hand tight or "loose" - Just that as many threads as possible are catching so they don't strip out. But don't overtighten, that will strip the threads as well.
OK, let me see if I understand correctly; when I am putting in the M10 cylinder head bolts into the center hole crankshaft, just screw it in a few turns so it engages a few threads. Once it bottoms out, unscrew and place in the longer M10 cylinder head bolt and screw that in a few turns also. Is that correct? PS. THANK YOU for these incredibly informative videos and saving me hundreds if not thousands of dollars in dealer/repair costs. Your a super kind individual for helping out us MINI owners.@@ModMINI
pintaileddy no. It’s an m12 hole. You could screw in an m12 bolt if you want. It really doesn’t matter. I used m10 so I can just pull it out with a magnet. You just need something for the pulley puller to push on.
Impact gun. If you need to do it manually, attach a piece of flat bar to the pulley using two of the three removal holes (or maybe just one and use the 15mm socket itself as the fulcrum). Rotate until the bar hits floor or subframe and tighten
Thanks! The reason i ask is that the stock bolt on my pulley looked a little wobbly when spinning, so i tightened it with a quick zip from the impact and now spins round again. This is on a 06 w/ 63k miles, crank pulley and stock bolt have never been replaced but pulley doesn't have any visual signs of tear or play with the belt off. Have you ever seen the stock pulley bolt loosen itself?
pl pulley doesn’t loosen itself if bolt was properly tightened. On an 06, the inside part will be tight while the outside part with the belt grooves spins free, due to the cracked rubber.
I swapped my pulley and now my engine is ticking pretty loud. Sound like its coming from the valvetrain, up top. That a possibility ? Could something have moved or damaged ? I used an a Rigid impact like yours. Thank you very much for your channel.
I tried doing this and the new damper will not fully seat. I used the same one as you for the replacement part. I’m waaaaaay over 85ft/lbs and the damper is still approximately 4mm away from seating. Any advice?
is it possible to use oem crank pulley bolt if i clean it and it looks ok?, because amazon or ebay does not ship the bolt to Norway ... and i med it quick
The 05 Mini S has an M12x1.75 thread pitch not a 1.5 which can damage the crank, especially if installed with an impact. So either I missed something in your video, or you’re statement is misleading to say the least.
Great videos! I am actually working on this. I tried to get the M6 x 1.25" bolts at my local hardware store and they don't have them. Where can I get them? Also the long M12 and M10 in case I need them.
@@ManfredEissner you may actually need M6 x 1.25. I did the same thing at the hardware store and turned out the thread pitch was not common and was not the one I needed for my damper. I just grabbed the standard size and pitch and it fits perfectly.
I know this is sort of unrelated but how are 1st or 2nd gen minis for a guy that is 6' 2, I have been thinking about getting one that is used ,under 5k ,for a first car.
The factory seat adjusts very low, I am 6’3” and fine. If you want to race it you should consider one without a sunroof, as the sunroof frame reduces head room slightly
Hey! So I recently changed my crank pulley with the help of this video. I used the exact same pulley that you used but I noticed the pulley didn’t seat against the crank shaft itself like there was a 16th of a inch left before it fully hit the shaft. Is that normal?
Good to see you back! You have been inspiration for my own R53 rebuild project... my last stumbling block being a 5E19 code on my ABS. Have you ever come across this one? It has new ABS sensors, new pads and rotors, new suspension etc... just can’t get the ABS to clear up...
Mod MINI thanks, I’m thinking it could be bad news too... also needs BMW software to ‘recode’ the unit. Hoping it’s a fixable job via programming first. Let’s see 👍
Hey Mod Mini! Have been watching you for the longest!! Love all the information. Quick question that I hope you can help me with. So I just got this job done to replace the crankshaft pulley and all went well but my belt is sliding off the supercharger pulley and idler . Any information would help
Thanks for this very interesting video! I have one question though: Can there be a fault with the crankshaft pulley even when there is no error code? My R53 is not giving me nearly full power and I always thought it was the clutch that I'm going to get replaced soon, but could it not be the clutch but actually the crankshaft pulley? The aspect that alerted me was the "burning smell" you described, which I also noticed in my case, and it would obviously be a bit more cost-effective to replace this pulley rather than the whole clutch. Would it make sense to check this first or are there some definite signs or tests I can do to differentiate between a shot clutch and a crankshaft pulley fault? :) Best greetings from Germany!
Quick question! I have a 2006 R53 MCSa 70k Miles - I’ve been receiving a Service Engine Soon, TPS Light, DSC Light, and the dreaded “EP” message at certain times randomly, but will go away and then come back periodically. Transmission is shifting fine. Heard it could be the iPod Connector that came stock with my Mini, and I was directed to try unplugging that first. What do you think? I appreciate any help in advance, Mod Mini!
Also, I just replaced the Crank Pulley with ATI Super Damper, installed 17% WMW SC Pulley, replaced the old Drive Belt Tensioner, and drained/filled Coolant after installing new Radiator. EDIT: Love your videos by the way. I watched your channel all night before I decided to purchase my R53 almost 3 years ago, and I find myself going back to these useful videos time and time again.
Hi, First off, great vids. Really informative. I own 2002 Mini Cooper 1.6L w/200 000 km on it and it needs a new crank pulley. Is the one you install in this video compatible with my model?
Hey Mod, long shot,but im having an issue,i replaced my alternator 2 months ago and immediately noticed an issue when in full throttle my headlights and all my lights start dimming and i lose power,once im off the throttle its back to normal, i replaced the tensioner and wp pulley and belt and the issue persists,do you think its the crank,im getting a p1661 code,im genuinly frustrated any ideas ah forgot to mention 3 days ago i got the tensioner in,thought i fixed the issue and rode it hard, i blew the alternator and the battery i had to replace them again
Do you have undersized crank pulley? I haven't seen this and not sure. If so, get rid of the undersized crank pulley. But sounds like potentially something else.
@@ModMINI Negative apparently its the stock crank pulley,but it does have a 15% alta sc pulley i ran the volts while driving hard it goes from 14.6 and when the issue happens 15.9,is that signs of the belt slipping?
Wobble can be seen on the 2002-2004 before they fail if you happen to check it. I caught the dampener torn halfway through once. On the 2005-2006, They tend to fail suddenly and you can't see anything before they fail.
Ok. I’m slightly confused as to where this is in the exploded view on realoem.com. Is it the belt vibration dampener? How does this pulley relate to the 15%/17% pulley reduction? I’m trying to wrap my head around where these two are
I don’t understand how your bolt came out so easily. I’ve been fighting mine for the past day. The car has never seen winter and there’s no corrosion on or around the bolt
Just purchased a 03 cooper s and my mechanic took it for a spin and felt no power. Car went limp mode and through a p1688 code. My belt looks pretty bad so it's a good guess to say that's the issue.
Thank you soooooo much for coming back to fixing MINIs
I will be undergoing this job on my R53 shortly. This is the 3rd or 4th job I've done on the Mini using your videos, and I really can't thank you enough. I will head over to your Fundly and send a donation. Also, I see most the Minis you work on have WA plates. If you ever see a dark blue R53 with no stripes and yellow front R56 brake calipers, thats me!
Well presented and easy to follow in a quick amount of time - Thank you. the tip about using a wood screw to grasp the old seal is priceless, and saved me much frustration.
Mod mini the closest thing the mini community has to jesus
He is.
praise him
Amen brother 🙏
Sooo true!
Thank you so much for providing these detailed service videos for the gen1’s. The audio is clear, the visuals give a clear perspective, and the reference materials are thorough. Kudos.
Just preformed this surgery on my 2006 r52, thanks for the great tutorial!
Most amazing thing about this video is how he does all of the work with those gloves!
If I work without them, I have cuts all over my hands and dirt / grime that takes two days to wash out
Mod MINI I use those same gloves working on farm but never thought to try them with mechanic work. Great Videos BTW!
I think I'm in love with you.
You make this all so simple. Certainly saved me my car's worth in labor fees.
Thanks for everything.
Dude! Your video tutorials are extremely clear & concise! Such a huge help. Cheers. Leigh.
Thanks so much for your great videos on the R53s. Great to see you’re back 👍
THANKS!
Purchased that same damper from Amazon (but I only paid $150), then I saw this install video that made it even easier to do this replacement job on my mini, and feel better about my decision on the viscous damper. Went down to Ace Hardware to grab the puller bolts before the tool showed up, but found the thread pitch were listed incorrectly in the video. Figured it out and got a small assortment that worked out just fine.
Thanks for the video! It makes life easier when working on a mini. I did try to donate but there's no PayPal option. I'll see if privacy card app works but my router is set up to block Facebook completely so I'm not sure if that will be an issue.
Sorry, there are two pulley sizes for Gen 1. Bolts might be different size for one or the other. See end of video, there is a link to virtual tip jar. Thanks if you figure it out! What is "privacy card app"?
@@ModMINI the Privacy card plug-in or app is similar to say PayPal, in that your credit card number is only exposed to Privacy, and they replace your credit card numbers with a one time use number. If you have: PayPal, Cash (similar to venmo, but supplied by Square) it would be easier, and Cash is instantaneous.
I'm not familiar with the tip jar system you are using. I try not to use my credit card online without being familiar with the company.
Just purchased a r53 s. Have to replace the timing chain. Your videos are great. I have the death rattle. Tried the chain tensioner, quieted it down a bit, not enough. Thanks again.
Nice to have you back Mr mini. Hope the job working out good luck and thank you for all your knowledge all the best kev /london
Glad to see you back with another fine video. Best instructions online!
Love these r53 videos!!! I could watch all day!!
My stock pulley bolts are actually m6x1.0. I had previously said m5x0.8 but there was rust build up which made the m6x1.00 harder to screw in. After tapping they went in nicely. I have 05 r53.
Had the hardest time looking for m6x1.25 bolts. Don’t think they actually exist for the common people. On the bright side I learned lot about bolts.
Thanks for the detailed video . The trick inserting the different length bolts into the shaft crank shaft made it so much easier.
I had to use longer M6 screws as the 50mm could not accommodate washers.
Thanks!
All his videos has saved soo much time on my r53
DUDE - Life Saver!! Was having the worst time figuring out this issue with mine! Really appreciate all the videos!!
I just did this job this weekend. My guidance is to get a M12x1.75x90 (not 100), 90 is long enough when reinstlaling the harmonic balancer. 100 seemed to long and bottomed out, and i was worried about damaging the threads on the crank itself. Another tip is I removed the harmonic balancer bolt with a battery operated impact, but when putting it back on I would recommend using hand tools while having someone step on the brake, and if a manual car put in in 6th gear...it went right on with hand tools, the impact seemed like overkill to me and risked damaging the threads on crank
Glad to see you back I was wondering what happened
3:23 I used a crowbar and a small screwdriver and it locked it fine. It will save you the cost of the special tool.
You sir have always got the best Diy on these mini's Thank you.:)
My one came off lucky for the belt stayed on to get me home . :(
Same time doing the SC.
Also just donated keep them Awesome video's coming Thanks again :)
Wow another great video by the mini master. Glad to see you back bro!
How do you keep the crank pulley from turning while you are trying to do the final torque of 85 foot pounds?
I have a question the timing chain loose when you remove the pulley?
Sweet, a new R53 video!
Just curious, the directions in the box for the SFI crank pulley show that you must heat up the pulley in the oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit before installing. Why was this step skipped?
I have a longer bolt to pull it on to the crankshaft. I must have explained that in video? If you don't have that, yes, heat it up and it will slide right on.
my 05 R52 crank pulley has no grooves is this normal? just ordered the sfi from your link. i’m getting some squeal/slippage when revving-
Hey, I’m planning to dk thai job in my r53 on saturday, would applying heat to the new pulley be a good idea to help it slip on/get going?
Thanks for all your videos!
What pulley puller could I use to remove the PRW pulley like the one you installed in the video? The three holes are way far apart that the spread of the pulley puller cannot reach all three holes.
Good to see you in action again. 👍
Nice video,,,, a question ,,, before you do this job, did you empty all the oil from the engine of the car ? Or can you remove the crankshaft seal without emptying the oil ?
I am considering doing this job on my R53. The forums are filled with people who say that if your MINI has not had the harmonic balancer replaced at some point in its life, then it is overdue for replacement even without symptoms or trouble codes. Also, belt manufacturers seem to suggest that idler pulleys and tensioners should be changed with the belt. What do you think of these points? And do you think region plays a roll in degradation of these parts?
If you are doing your own labor, don't bother with the idler pulleys. Might be good idea to replace harmonic balancer on the 2005-2006 cars which you can't see the rubber degradation from the front of the pulley.
Help!! I have followed these steps to the letter and am using the same pulley in the video. I have managed to get the new pulley on part of the way, but just not enough for the stock pulley bolt to catch and thread the rest of the way. I am using a M12 x 1.75 at 100mm length. I am using an impact wrench, but I just can't get it to seed all the way. What am I doing wrong?
Such a pleasure to watch! All of the best and thank you for the channel.
I need help. I have a 06 R53 S whenever I put the key in the ignition and try to crank it nothing happens no light on dash or anything it like it doesn’t have no power. I checked the battery it’s good. Where do I go from here.
With the new pulley you had to use the longer bolt first to slide it on I'm asking because I have the same one and it slides right up so I was able use the regular short bolt by itself @Modmini
Sometimes pulley can't be easily pushed on enough to catch enough threads to do so.
@@ModMINI ok thanks I had bought the same one but it wasn't snug on the snout and kept backing my bolt loose
What are the dimensions of the longer bolt you used to install the pulley back on?
@7':06" You said,"that's what you smelled." I wonder if I have the same problem w/my '06 R53. I always thought what I was smelling was supercharger oil burning under hard acceleration whenever I get on the freeway.
I can think of no reason for supercharger to burn oil.
@@ModMINI I wonder what else could cause an oily smell after a quick hard acceleration...?
You sir, are my hero.
Since you put the car in 6th to remove the crank bolt does one have to put it in Reverse gear to torque the bolt? Also why 6th gear as opposed to 1st or 2nd?
6th for everything. High gear to increase the gearing resistance. lower gears would easily overcome the braking force
Hi
would the alts 4% crank pulley a good replacement for my 2006 r53 mini cooper s
No. Stay with normal size harmonic balancer.
@@ModMINI
My r53 has an aftermarket exhaust and 15% pulley what is the best way to make more power and if i go down to a 17% pulley how do i maintain engine temperatures
My mini is a daily driver and i don't mind spending a bit extra to keep it reliable
I really appreciate your advice and your channel has helped me out more then you can imagine thank you very much
Awesome video as usual! Glad that you are back!
Thank you for video, my car just threw that p1688 code and I couldn’t figure out the reason.
Now I know, your bolt on Amazon is not populating, can u provide the link again please, and the belt tensioner oils locate as well
amzn.to/3x8qKTT
@@ModMINI Thank You
To torque the crank pully: how do you lock it to prevent turning with an automatic transmission?
Jam something in the hole to stop flywheel from turning
Hey mod mini, I know this is a long shot but I was wondering if you had and suggestions on the crankshaft. I’m rebuilding the engine of my 2005 R53. It is at the machinist now. I was wondering if you would use the stock crank or upgrade to something. This is in my track R53, so I am trying to get as much HP out of the engine without putting too much stress on it. Also if you had any suggestions on pistons. I was planning to do oversized, 77.5mm, from JE. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
The bolts are M6x1.0, not M6x1.25 - sorry - I can't annotate the video.
How to replace crankshaft pulley and front seal on a 2002-2008 MINI Cooper S R53/R52 Supercharged. Similar procedure for 2002-2008 MINI Cooper Base non-supercharged. Front main seal harmonic balancer are alternate terms.You may need this if you have P1688 OBD code and burning smell.
MINI Cooper Tools: amzn.to/2Eb1S6C
Buy the SFI pulley here: amzn.to/2PgFmu5
ATI pulley: amzn.to/2QwSBqE
OEM equivalent pulley: amzn.to/2BZ7HBe
Belt (stock supercharger pulley): amzn.to/2QwQtza
Belt (15% supercharger pulley):amzn.to/2BY69Ye
Crank seal: amzn.to/2RudeoF
Crank bolt: amzn.to/2IH4NCo
Tip Jar: fundly.com/mod-mini-tip-jar
I bought the same pulley mine went straight on I ain't have to use the longer bolt to press it on any recommendations
I think I stripped the threads inside the crank when I was taking the pulley off. How can I fix it short of changing the crankshaft?.. Your video is excellent, I just managed to screw up anyway.
Greetings Mod MINI, as it pertains to engine life, which pulley would you say is better, the fluid filled or the OEM Harmonic balancer?
Maaaaan you help out a lot cause that code came up
Hello. Ive writen to you im the past. love the videos. My duaghter wants a JCW 2013 auto copper. Ivealways heard to stay away from the auto transmissions. Is that year ok.
The early CVT automatics were the ones to stay away from, as well as 2010 and older 6 speed AISIN which might require a valve body prematurely (should be no more costly than a clutch job but commonly misdiagnosed). I think the later ones are fine .
If she wants a JCW Cooper S why not get a manual? It's not like it's difficult to learn if she doesn't know how to.
Do you know where I can get a crankshaft bearing for 2004 mini Cooper s?
For my 2008 R52 S, I need 3x M6x1.00 and a long M10 to remove? Then a M12x1.75x100M to put back on?
Awesome job, have you done the timing chain on one of these?
Would this cause possible electrical issues as well? I’m having dash lights and speedo/tach needles acting all crazy. My brain tells me it’s a bad alternator based on what’s happening, but I just had that replaced back in May/June. The engine runs just fine, but I get warning lights that come on, then temp gauge shoots up…..car is not overheating. I have noticed a burning smell, but only under hard acceleration. I’m at a loss trying to figure out what could be causing this. Someone in a FB Mini group suggested balancer going out or alternator. Since I know it’s not the alternator, don’t know where to start first. If anyone could point me in the right direction or have any advice, I’d greatly appreciate it.
Is the ABN 13pc tool still the one you recommend? You switched tools halfway. Looking to do this soon, thanks!
Dude, great stuff you post, super well done. After pulling the pulley on my 03 r53 I found my crankshaft has a groove just in front of the main front seal. I didn't see this mentioned in any vids. It looks like maybe a groove that would take an o-ring that the slight bevel on the back of the pulley hub might land against - should there be something like that in the groove?
Is it possible to drive the pulley on too far? I put the prw pulley on and seem to have bottomed out my bolt at 85lbs and have a small gap between bolt head and pulley.
No. Make sure correct length bolt and nothing in hole, then tighten farther if necessary.
Hi thanks for your video, I'm planning on swapping out the crank pulley for an R53 with an automatic gearbox. Is there a good way to hold the crank in place while I torque the crank pulley to spec? Thanks again.
Get assistant to get under car and hold one of the flywheel ring gear teeth with a large screwdriver or pry bar.
@@ModMINI Thanks for the help!
Wait . U said take off wheel well liner but u didnt say nothing about taking off the fender but it looks like u took off the fender . So do i have to take off the fender?
What fender? MINIs don't have fenders
@@ModMINI minis dont have a fender? What? Whats over yop of the wheel ? Its gots 2 fenders a hood and a bumper.
@@kirtsteg7030 the "fender" is attached to the hood when you open it....
Love this channel, so helpful
Had mine replaced 1 month ago. First started going with a cricket sound and then out of an idle acceleration it failed. It did throw two codes:
P1688
P2270
Replaced with a stick one since it was the fastest way to get the car on the road again.
If I want to replace the crank seal only, what are the chances I can re use the crank pulley once I pull it off? Do they bend easily?
Do not remove seal unless you intend to replace.
@@ModMINI Sorry - I meant the balancer. Can I reuse the balancer if it's ok? Will pulling it off with the puller damage it? I just want to change the timing cover gasket and main seal.
Could u break down the bolts needed again. I got the M12x1.50 but the M6 x? and how long? Also you mention a M10 also how long? Thank you? Also the M5 is what screws in the balancer right?
I just did this job and used Dorman Flanged M6-1.0-35mm hex bolts I picked up at O Reilly Auto. Part # 980-220D. They are grade 10.9 and worked perfectly for me.
Brandon M thank you.:)
Sir, would you please check the size for the "puller bolts" that screw into the crankshaft pulley? You say they are M6 with 1.25 thread pitch but that does not exist. I have called numerous online bolt companies and they say it's probably a M8 bolt that your referring to. If I am wrong and you have identified the bolt correctly, where do you get these?
Looking forward to hearing back soon.
Thank you!
1.0 perhaps. I know they are not M8. These are spare bolts I had from dead MINIs.
Just watched another video and the M6 bolts are 1.0
Question, when you place the M10 bolts in do you screw them in or just leave "loose" ? If lose, are you concerned the pressure from the M10 bolt may damage the threads with pulling out the pulley?@@ModMINI
It's simple. Engage as many threads as possible without damaging the bolts or the threads. it doesn't matter if they are hand tight or "loose" - Just that as many threads as possible are catching so they don't strip out. But don't overtighten, that will strip the threads as well.
OK, let me see if I understand correctly; when I am putting in the M10 cylinder head bolts into the center hole crankshaft, just screw it in a few turns so it engages a few threads. Once it bottoms out, unscrew and place in the longer M10 cylinder head bolt and screw that in a few turns also. Is that correct?
PS. THANK YOU for these incredibly informative videos and saving me hundreds if not thousands of dollars in dealer/repair costs. Your a super kind individual for helping out us MINI owners.@@ModMINI
pintaileddy no. It’s an m12 hole. You could screw in an m12 bolt if you want. It really doesn’t matter. I used m10 so I can just pull it out with a magnet. You just need something for the pulley puller to push on.
Thanks for the video! How did you tighten the crank bolt on this auto transmission car without the crank spinning?
Impact gun. If you need to do it manually, attach a piece of flat bar to the pulley using two of the three removal holes (or maybe just one and use the 15mm socket itself as the fulcrum). Rotate until the bar hits floor or subframe and tighten
Thanks! The reason i ask is that the stock bolt on my pulley looked a little wobbly when spinning, so i tightened it with a quick zip from the impact and now spins round again. This is on a 06 w/ 63k miles, crank pulley and stock bolt have never been replaced but pulley doesn't have any visual signs of tear or play with the belt off. Have you ever seen the stock pulley bolt loosen itself?
pl pulley doesn’t loosen itself if bolt was properly tightened. On an 06, the inside part will be tight while the outside part with the belt grooves spins free, due to the cracked rubber.
I swapped my pulley and now my engine is ticking pretty loud. Sound like its coming from the valvetrain, up top. That a possibility ? Could something have moved or damaged ? I used an a Rigid impact like yours.
Thank you very much for your channel.
Something else or coincidental failure. Automative stethoscope might help to track down.
If changing lower timing pully do yo have to drain oil?
No but you might spill a little.
Is the ATI super damper 2% overdrive a good choice for my 2006 Mini Cooper s that I use for a daily driver? If not what would you recommend?
Stick with 0%
What an awesome color
I tried doing this and the new damper will not fully seat. I used the same one as you for the replacement part. I’m waaaaaay over 85ft/lbs and the damper is still approximately 4mm away from seating. Any advice?
Weird. Take back off and look to see if any metal has rolled up and got in the way. Deburr it and try again.
is it possible to use oem crank pulley bolt if i clean it and it looks ok?, because amazon or ebay does not ship the bolt to Norway ... and i med it quick
Sure, just put some blue thread locker compound on it
Thank you soo much for that video I have been trying to figure out what the burning smell was in my car
Don't take your time. Of the last two cars on which I saw this problem, one of them threw the belt.
The 05 Mini S has an M12x1.75 thread pitch not a 1.5 which can damage the crank, especially if installed with an impact. So either I missed something in your video, or you’re statement is misleading to say the least.
Sorry, I am unable to correct this in the video. See description where I mention this.
on the center post in your garage in this video, Are those Supercharger pullieys?
Yes. They are my collection.
Did you have to heat up the SFI or PRW harmonic balancer before installing? Or did it go on easily?
Just press it on with the longer bolt.
Mod MINI that balancer instructions say to heat it . Is that not needed? O and that you for helping me build my mini!!
The seal and bolt is no longer available :(
Got mine from advance auto parts over a year never a problem
Great videos! I am actually working on this. I tried to get the M6 x 1.25" bolts at my local hardware store and they don't have them. Where can I get them? Also the long M12 and M10 in case I need them.
Might need to go online if you've already tried the specialty fastener stores like Fastenal or Tacoma Screw
Thank you. Everywhere I looked they only have M6 X1.0, not 1.25. I'll work on it this weekend.
@@ManfredEissner you may actually need M6 x 1.25. I did the same thing at the hardware store and turned out the thread pitch was not common and was not the one I needed for my damper. I just grabbed the standard size and pitch and it fits perfectly.
I got 3, M6 x 50 at Rural King. They charge by the pound, so it was like 43 cents.
having same problem, do you mean you used the 6 x1 or found the 6x 1.25? @@JustMe-Dude
Cheers mate, great education
WHAT COLOUR IS THAT MINI
I know this is sort of unrelated but how are 1st or 2nd gen minis for a guy that is 6' 2, I have been thinking about getting one that is used ,under 5k ,for a first car.
Plenty of room
The factory seat adjusts very low, I am 6’3” and fine. If you want to race it you should consider one without a sunroof, as the sunroof frame reduces head room slightly
There is tons of room. I have a friend 6'4" and he fits in both cars no problem.
Hey! So I recently changed my crank pulley with the help of this video. I used the exact same pulley that you used but I noticed the pulley didn’t seat against the crank shaft itself like there was a 16th of a inch left before it fully hit the shaft. Is that normal?
It should pull all the way on with the bolt.
Mod MINI oh okay that makes sense. Thank you
Really good to see another video from you. Question; what's a good scanner tool you would recommend for the 2006 r53 mini?
Mauro Denis León stay tuned, will be making a video on this soon
Awesome, nice to see you're back! :)
6 speed manual transmission, why would the crankshaft pulley move but the crankshaft isn't, what can I do to get the pulley off.
This video.
Good to see you back! You have been inspiration for my own R53 rebuild project... my last stumbling block being a 5E19 code on my ABS. Have you ever come across this one? It has new ABS sensors, new pads and rotors, new suspension etc... just can’t get the ABS to clear up...
I don't know anything about that code. Might need a new ABS unit...
Mod MINI thanks, I’m thinking it could be bad news too... also needs BMW software to ‘recode’ the unit. Hoping it’s a fixable job via programming first. Let’s see 👍
How many miles typically before a failure?
Seems pretty random.
Hey Mod Mini! Have been watching you for the longest!! Love all the information. Quick question that I hope you can help me with. So I just got this job done to replace the crankshaft pulley and all went well but my belt is sliding off the supercharger pulley and idler . Any information would help
Thanks for this very interesting video!
I have one question though: Can there be a fault with the crankshaft pulley even when there is no error code? My R53 is not giving me nearly full power and I always thought it was the clutch that I'm going to get replaced soon, but could it not be the clutch but actually the crankshaft pulley?
The aspect that alerted me was the "burning smell" you described, which I also noticed in my case, and it would obviously be a bit more cost-effective to replace this pulley rather than the whole clutch.
Would it make sense to check this first or are there some definite signs or tests I can do to differentiate between a shot clutch and a crankshaft pulley fault? :)
Best greetings from Germany!
I suppose possible. Clutch smell and pulley smell would be different. Clutch would smell like hot brakes.
Thanks for the very quick response! The smell is definitely more like burnt rubber. I'll investigate more.
i read that someone placed this pulley in an oven for 30 min @ 275 degrees...would that be ok?
I think you mean the *timing chain* crank bolt (heat shrunk fit), not the cramp shaft "aux" belt pulley :)
I'm curious... what would you charge to do this? Might outsource this one.
You’d have to live in Seattle area for an answer to be relevant
Quick question! I have a 2006 R53 MCSa 70k Miles - I’ve been receiving a Service Engine Soon, TPS Light, DSC Light, and the dreaded “EP” message at certain times randomly, but will go away and then come back periodically. Transmission is shifting fine. Heard it could be the iPod Connector that came stock with my Mini, and I was directed to try unplugging that first. What do you think? I appreciate any help in advance, Mod Mini!
Also, I just replaced the Crank Pulley with ATI Super Damper, installed 17% WMW SC Pulley, replaced the old Drive Belt Tensioner, and drained/filled Coolant after installing new Radiator.
EDIT:
Love your videos by the way. I watched your channel all night before I decided to purchase my R53 almost 3 years ago, and I find myself going back to these useful videos time and time again.
Alternator overcharge?
Hi,
First off, great vids. Really informative. I own 2002 Mini Cooper 1.6L w/200 000 km on it and it needs a new crank pulley. Is the one you install in this video compatible with my model?
This video is for S model.
Hey Mod, long shot,but im having an issue,i replaced my alternator 2 months ago and immediately noticed an issue when in full throttle my headlights and all my lights start dimming and i lose power,once im off the throttle its back to normal, i replaced the tensioner and wp pulley and belt and the issue persists,do you think its the crank,im getting a p1661 code,im genuinly frustrated any ideas ah forgot to mention 3 days ago i got the tensioner in,thought i fixed the issue and rode it hard, i blew the alternator and the battery i had to replace them again
Do you have undersized crank pulley? I haven't seen this and not sure. If so, get rid of the undersized crank pulley. But sounds like potentially something else.
@@ModMINI Negative apparently its the stock crank pulley,but it does have a 15% alta sc pulley i ran the volts while driving hard it goes from 14.6 and when the issue happens 15.9,is that signs of the belt slipping?
@@kingrabbit1076That's bad alternator. It's overcharging. Not regulating current.
@@ModMINI thank you
The harmonic balancer on my 05 R53 broke in half with no warning a few weeks ago. Luckily i was within walking distance of home.
Wobble can be seen on the 2002-2004 before they fail if you happen to check it. I caught the dampener torn halfway through once. On the 2005-2006, They tend to fail suddenly and you can't see anything before they fail.
Ok. I’m slightly confused as to where this is in the exploded view on realoem.com. Is it the belt vibration dampener? How does this pulley relate to the 15%/17% pulley reduction? I’m trying to wrap my head around where these two are
It's the crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer. Two names for same part. this has nothing to do with supercharger pulley.
Mod MINI ahhhh. That was my confusion. I just watched the supercharger pulley video and I think I get it all now.
I don’t understand how your bolt came out so easily. I’ve been fighting mine for the past day.
The car has never seen winter and there’s no corrosion on or around the bolt
Great video, thanks man.
Just purchased a 03 cooper s and my mechanic took it for a spin and felt no power. Car went limp mode and through a p1688 code. My belt looks pretty bad so it's a good guess to say that's the issue.
Be sure to check crank pulley also.
@@ModMINI hopefully this guy buys my bmw so I can buy the things I need to get chili working properly :)