Its a real pleasure to see this outstanding camper coming to completion. Your meticulously precise attention to detail and superb craftsmanship are evident wherever one's eye rests. This will be one of the strongest and lightest pop top campers, reinforced and sealed on every surface, providing years and countless kilometres of comfort wherever you park. This is one of the best Travel Cabin's I have ever seen, thank you for sharing your phenomenal build.
Hi Matt - great idea for the guides and seal system. If you are planning to install a ventilation fan suggest you use a reversible model. Running it with the windows and doors closed drawing air in will pressurize the interior slightly to aid lifting the top. Running it “out” will help draw the top down.
I’ve watched this build probably three times every time I’m amazed how you figured that out but what you’ve done is something I want to do I just haven’t figured out that one thing until now. Thank you so much for sharing. God bless you and yours.
Thanks Jack. It's working well so far. The whole thing is an experiment of course, so we'll just have to see how well it holds up once I finally get to start torture testing.
I'm still considering it... Could always use more seals to try to keep that Baja silt at bay. For now, I am adding a seal around the bottom of the aluminum on the pop-up. It will provide a seal and a bit of cushion to sit on while it is clamped down.
I was planning on a very similar seal on a pop-up design i was considering and it's very encouraging / inspiring to see somebody actually pull it off so well with common hardware. I hope you're stoked and proud of the build.
Cool Stuff Matt. I am very keen to see how the whole structure holds up in a real world off road situation. Quite a heavy load on top. Enjoyed every bit of the video. Good luck in completing the project, can't wait to see in real world.
Nice work. I am an old fan from the start of your Journal. Happy to come back and find this. I have my own project, similar idea, but very different execution. I really like your set up. Great to see different ways to solve the same puzzle.
Hey Matt, thank you very much for all the videos and detail you go into, it's really helpful. It's surprising how little info is out there about diy hard side pop up truck campers so that makes your videos even more valuable. Keep at it mate, you've got this 🤙
Thanks for the video , a was searching that kind of pop up roof a long time , I like the way you build it , ,I want to do about the same on a cargo van
Thank you so much for sharing your build. It's a great concept and one I've not seen done by an individual builder before. I'm looking forward to seeing more details as you progress. Thank again!
1st time watcher, new subscriber! Great information! You've answered/given me ideas on how to repair my Jayco Sportster 7. Absolutely love the drawer rail idea, the handles to pull the roof down, and the latches on the inside. Why did you place the forward struts where you did again? I missed that part even watching it again. Great video!
Welcome aboard! I put the front struts where I did because that was as far forward as I could put them without encroaching on the width of the queen mattress. In hindsight this didn't work as well as I thought it would. I think mounting the struts all the way forward and using less forceful struts in the front would have made for smoother motion in the pop-up. Currently it wants to teeter-totter a bit with the struts as a pivot point when lowering the pop-up.
Hi Matt i guess you've never built one of these before ? but i take my Hat off to you mate its Bloody Awesome and i like how you have glassed everything in an attempt to keep water out you have inspired me to build my own now 😁😁🤘
so nice . would you be so kind to share the interior weight and the heights of the overlap parts of the camper. for the pop up roof to the joint wht height do you have ( mesured on the exterieur? thanks a lot
Hi. I'm not exactly sure what you are asking for, but I go into the weight and dimensions of the camper in this video. Hopefully I cover your question in there
This is great. I wonder of the necessity of glassing the inner surfaces. I get glassing the inner and outer seams and the exterior surfaces but the inner ceiling? Would love to know if I am missing something in dealing with the importance of glassing both. Also, you should coat your wood with resin then set your glass. The glass will wick the resin and leave a perfectly filled weave with no resin pooling.
Is it necessary? Probably not 🤷♂️ I'm no engineer, but I'll try to explain my thinking. If you think of the roof/ceiling as a composite panel that is 1 inch thick and spans an area over 6 feet wide and 10 feet long, I'm asking it to have quite a bit of strength and rigidity for its thickness. Especially since it is a pop-up, so it doesn't have the advantage of being a complete box. Now if you think about applying a force to the ceiling (pushing the pop-up into the up position) most of this force is exerted on the upper most and lower most portions of the panel and less force is exerted on the core of the panel. In other words, the outer surface of the ceiling and roof take the most force while the inner foam core is relatively less stressed. By glassing the outer surface of each panel I am adding strength and rigidity where it is most valuable to the panel. of course this extra glassing adds weight, cost, and effort to the project, so it's a tradeoff for sure. If I was looking at my design and trying to cut weight, I would rather use a thinner plywood, but I couldn't source anything lighter of a decent quality without ordering much more expensive marine grade ply. Everything is a trade off i suppose
@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal Understood, a hollow aluminun tube retains it's strength because the outer portions of the tube provide the bulk of the strength. Same principle applies here. I will be copying lots of your design. You are correct, Okoume MP would be the best plywood for the project, for the ceiling if no where else. I think I will glass inner and outer of the ceiling, like you. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Looking forward to the next video.
@@brandonsummey2418 cool. glad I was able to articulate the concept well enough. hoping to make some progress on the build this weekend and start editing the next video next week
I want to build a popup trailer box that will fit on my utility trailer, so I'm studying your popup design. It has features that I had already thought of for my design, such as the opposing flat bars that seal the two halves, once the top is extended to its fully up position. My hesitation centers mostly around the exterior finish, as I would like to build my box out of EPS foam, but I have zero fiberglass experience, and I am a little concerned about the difficulty and cost of using fiberglass, but not convinced that poormans fiberglass is an acceptable substitute.
If you can do "poomans fiberglass" you can do actual fiberglass as far as the skills go. You can reduce the cost by using polyester resin instead of epoxy. By having a denser core material (structural foam or wood) you can also use thinner glass which means less resin and lower cost as well. You may know a better EPS foam option than me, but with my limited knowledge I would steer you at XPS foam instead of EPS. From what I'm aware of the XPS has better insulative properties, is more rigid, easier to work with, and comes in various densities.
So Awesome! Dang You Tube isnt sending me notifications when your new vids post even though Ive got the bell selected for all. What do you think that beaty of a camper weighs?
Dang RUclips needs to get their act together haha My best guess is that the camper will weigh 1200 lbs dry once I finish the cabinetry. I'll have to try to find somewhere local I can weigh it once it's done.
Freak'n speechless, dude. The ingenuity of this build is something to behold. I can't remember if I've asked this before, but do you have an idea of how much this is going to weigh when it's all done?
I looked into them a while back and was seeing reports from other DIY builders that were having trouble getting all of the actuators to raise and lower at the same rate, particularly if their battery bank was running low. It seems like the actuators are getting more popular now, so I'm guessing that new products or new knowledge has become readily available to the DIY community to solve this, but I had already started building the camper with this mechanism in mined.
I wanted to mount the lift supports as vertical as possible, so I looked at the extended and collapsed lengths and tried to get the shortest ones possible that still extended long enough for my application.
I admire your skills and persistence here! I'm thinking of doing a similar project on my HMMWV, but with aluminum/aluminum, aluminum/wood, or aluminum/FRP composite panels. Lovin the home built panels, but one question... 3:13 ....what does this puppy end up weighing in total...and is the truck/tires rated for it at finish weight?
Thanks Unfortunately I don't have a way of weighing the camper. I plan to weigh it at a truck scale eventually, but there aren't any publicly accessible ones near me. My best guess is that the camper weighs 1200 pounds. The truck is rated for 1950 pounds of cargo weight capacity. Obviously getting rid of the bed and tailgate help out a bit, but I expect to be close to GVWR when I'm loaded up for a trip.
The roof and walls that pop up are made with the same process as the rest of the camper walls. So a cross section would be 6oz fiberglass-5mm plywood-5/8 inch close cell foam-5mm plywood-6 oz fiberglass. The area around the window is just fiberglass and plywood, so maybe that is what through you off
Hi Matt. Nice build!! I've watched the series a couple times and really like a lot of your solutions. A question and by no means a critique...why did you install the front gas struts angling east/west towards the center line of the camper instead of north/south. Does their placement have any impact when you are in bed?
Good question. Basically, I didn't figure out what struts I would need ahead of time and didn't realize they would have to be mounted so far off vertical to fit and provide the stroke I needed. So, poor design/planning lead me to mount them like that. It would probably be worthwhile to try mounting them in different orientations to experiment with how it affects the movement of the pop-up
Gotcha. Been there a million times. I recently remodeled a soft side pop up truck camper and have had a ball in it. For the most the soft side has not been an issue until we get into freezing temps. Building a hard side like yours has really been tempting. Thanks for the reply, the ideas and please keep doing what you are doing.
@@mikecasey4766 I definitely considered a soft sided pop-up so that I could make the folded height of the camper shorter, but in the end I'm happy I went with the hard side. It's nice to have a comfortable, convenient setup but the important thing is the travel. If you're getting out there than you're doing it right 👍
Thanks. I'm not sure exactly what you are asking, but I'll try to answer. The extension is 16.5 inches. In other words the roof moves up and down 16.5 inches. The distance from the floor to the ceiling is 71 inches
I considered linear actuators, but thought this would be a simpler solution. I'm sure it could be done with actuators, but I have seen a number of DIY attempts go poorly as they had a lot of trouble syncing the actuators or having the actuators become un-synced if the batteries weren't fully charged.
Thanks for the detailed video, this is very helpful for anyone building a DIY camper, I love the pop up mechanism and the detailed explanation. I have been wanting to make something similar, do you think this type of pop up can handle strong winds every now and then?
Yes. once it is fully up and the aluminum trim/seal components are pressed together it becomes quite stable. Pushing on the side of the pop up while it is in the up position the entire truck rocks without any noticeable movement between the pop-up section and the rest of the camper.
@@Nimesh222 The 2 struts that are mounted at the rear of the camper are rated for 60 pounds of lift force each. The 2 mounted forward are rated for 80 pounds each. The roof moves 16.25 inches vertically. the stroke on the struts is 15.2 inches
Its a real pleasure to see this outstanding camper coming to completion.
Your meticulously precise attention to detail and superb craftsmanship are evident wherever one's eye rests.
This will be one of the strongest and lightest pop top campers, reinforced and sealed on every surface, providing years and countless kilometres of comfort wherever you park.
This is one of the best Travel Cabin's I have ever seen, thank you for sharing your phenomenal build.
Wow, thanks for all the kind and encouraging words Felix!
Never seen a Pop Up before on a camper thats AWESOME!!👍
Hi Matt - great idea for the guides and seal system. If you are planning to install a ventilation fan suggest you use a reversible model. Running it with the windows and doors closed drawing air in will pressurize the interior slightly to aid lifting the top. Running it “out” will help draw the top down.
interesting idea
I’ve watched this build probably three times every time I’m amazed how you figured that out but what you’ve done is something I want to do I just haven’t figured out that one thing until now. Thank you so much for sharing. God bless you and yours.
glad to hear you found it helpful. thanks for watching and good luck on your project
Very cool. I'm glad to see this project coming together and will love to see you two back on the road.
Thanks Walter. We're looking forward to getting back on the road too
Great thinking on using the drawer slides for the pop up top as guides.👍😎
Thanks Jack. It's working well so far. The whole thing is an experiment of course, so we'll just have to see how well it holds up once I finally get to start torture testing.
Ingenious craftsmanship with bucu talent. Very impressive sir....
Thank You
Really impressive work!! So many creative ideas to make it work.
Maybe a second D seal on top of the body's aluminum cap, so it seals when lowered?
I'm still considering it... Could always use more seals to try to keep that Baja silt at bay.
For now, I am adding a seal around the bottom of the aluminum on the pop-up. It will provide a seal and a bit of cushion to sit on while it is clamped down.
@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal Makes sense. Looking great!
Great!!! Glad to see a update on the progress!! Thanks for sharing.
Dude, you’re killing it! Absolutely love your build!
Making me think back to when I watched your first Fiberglass video!! Looks awesome, a new era for sure
Oh man... that feels so long ago.
Thanks for watching
Very clever use of drawer sliders, i love it. Gas struts are a super idea too, much easier to fit than a cable/pulley/hoist system.
oh yeah, I wasn't about to figure out a cable-pully-hoist system 😬
Incredible!! Wow, thank you for sharing all the details!
I was planning on a very similar seal on a pop-up design i was considering and it's very encouraging / inspiring to see somebody actually pull it off so well with common hardware. I hope you're stoked and proud of the build.
Thanks Bernie. I'm feeling pretty good about it. Good luck on your build!
So great to see yall are doing ok and great to see the camper take shape
Awesome update. Indefinitely admire hard sided pop-up campers. Your camper is awesome!
love the hand made quality, ingenuity, and originality.
Bruh it’s soo good to see you again. Life happens I totally get it. Missed y’all!
Glad to see your progress! Well engineered and thought-out design and process. Looking forward to see the completed product. 👍
Amazing design, planning, and workmanship Matt ! Looking forward to seeing the next phase!!
Thanks Mike
Hola Matt, nice to see you again. Doing a great job. Keep up. Margarita y Luis.
Now I gotta few ideas floatin around, thanks for the inspiration brother
Nearly Adventure Time again looking good
So tempting to rush things to get it useable 🤪
Just started seeing your trips from 3 years ago. Nice to see the camper being upgraded, although you guys deserve a nice new Tacoma.
You guys create my dreams. I love every bit of this and every other video. Party on!
Excelente, un trabajo sencillo pero muy bueno y efectivo.
Los felicito, es una muy buena forma de expansión.
Saludos desde Cali Colombia 🇨🇴
Thank you Robinson
Cool Stuff Matt. I am very keen to see how the whole structure holds up in a real world off road situation. Quite a heavy load on top. Enjoyed every bit of the video. Good luck in completing the project, can't wait to see in real world.
Thanks. I'm interested to see how it holds up as well. If there is one thing im good at its torture testing all my gear 😅
Very clever. I've been pondering converting an old motorcycle trailer to a hard shell pop-up square drop. Your designs inspire me.
That sounds like a cool project
Sweet set up..excited to see the end result, not mention the coming adventures
Good to see an update on the build, its looking killer!
Impressive! That’s some serious engineering. Looking forward to the finished product, best wishes.
You didn't mention the load capacity for the the glides. I use 500lb versions and they work nice.
They are 200lb capacity. higher capacity would be better
Great job so far.
Just an amazing job of design and construction. Thank you so much for the video.
Fantastic idea on that top!
Nice work. I am an old fan from the start of your Journal. Happy to come back and find this. I have my own project, similar idea, but very different execution. I really like your set up. Great to see different ways to solve the same puzzle.
For sure. The creativity is the best part of DIY builds!
Hey Matt, thank you very much for all the videos and detail you go into, it's really helpful. It's surprising how little info is out there about diy hard side pop up truck campers so that makes your videos even more valuable. Keep at it mate, you've got this 🤙
Glad you like them!
Really impressed with the draw slide idea.
thanks luke
Wow, nice job. Very slick.
This looks awesome! Been following the channel a few years now and have enjoyed the different setups you've made
Nice job, your effort shows.
Been thinking about a similar design for some time. Thanks for sharing your build!
Go for it!
Thanks for the video , a was searching that kind of pop up roof a long time , I like the way you build it , ,I want to do about the same on a cargo van
Sounds like a cool project
Holy cow welcome back
Hey, great video! Interesting build & well explained!
I like this a lot, thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for sharing your build. It's a great concept and one I've not seen done by an individual builder before. I'm looking forward to seeing more details as you progress. Thank again!
Very welcome
Impressive young man
1st time watcher, new subscriber!
Great information! You've answered/given me ideas on how to repair my Jayco Sportster 7. Absolutely love the drawer rail idea, the handles to pull the roof down, and the latches on the inside. Why did you place the forward struts where you did again? I missed that part even watching it again.
Great video!
Welcome aboard!
I put the front struts where I did because that was as far forward as I could put them without encroaching on the width of the queen mattress. In hindsight this didn't work as well as I thought it would. I think mounting the struts all the way forward and using less forceful struts in the front would have made for smoother motion in the pop-up. Currently it wants to teeter-totter a bit with the struts as a pivot point when lowering the pop-up.
@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal yes, I saw the teeter tottering in your video. Interesting fix using straps. Thanks!
That's insane, great Job Matt
thats awsome good job with the build
Hi Matt i guess you've never built one of these before ? but i take my Hat off to you mate its Bloody Awesome and i like how you have glassed everything in an attempt to keep water out you have inspired me to build my own now 😁😁🤘
my 1st time doing something like this.
Good luck on your project and have fun!
This is friggin awesome
Gotta subscribe to see this come to fruition. Very cool.
welcome aboard
Well done, Matt. It's really turning out great!
so nice . would you be so kind to share the interior weight and the heights of the overlap parts of the camper. for the pop up roof to the joint wht height do you have ( mesured on the exterieur? thanks a lot
Hi. I'm not exactly sure what you are asking for, but I go into the weight and dimensions of the camper in this video. Hopefully I cover your question in there
@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal the height of the overlaping section which goes up and down, the popup section height
@@user-xr9zd8hq6y 16.5 inches
very good your videos. I'm building a camper and the information is very important.
Love this. I was just conjuring up an idea like this, I might attempt to design and build a folding wall design like those instacrates
That sounds like a creative project. Good luck!
Ohhhh definitely going to do this on my camper!
Nice. Good luck on your project
@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal Thank you😁
Sweet build so far!! I've been wanting to do something VERY similar!!
So impressive!
Very impressive nice job!!
So dope man!
Nice job , thanks to sharing
Bad ass , you rock bro 😎 👏👏👏👏
very good progress!
This is great. I wonder of the necessity of glassing the inner surfaces. I get glassing the inner and outer seams and the exterior surfaces but the inner ceiling? Would love to know if I am missing something in dealing with the importance of glassing both.
Also, you should coat your wood with resin then set your glass. The glass will wick the resin and leave a perfectly filled weave with no resin pooling.
Is it necessary? Probably not 🤷♂️
I'm no engineer, but I'll try to explain my thinking.
If you think of the roof/ceiling as a composite panel that is 1 inch thick and spans an area over 6 feet wide and 10 feet long, I'm asking it to have quite a bit of strength and rigidity for its thickness. Especially since it is a pop-up, so it doesn't have the advantage of being a complete box.
Now if you think about applying a force to the ceiling (pushing the pop-up into the up position) most of this force is exerted on the upper most and lower most portions of the panel and less force is exerted on the core of the panel. In other words, the outer surface of the ceiling and roof take the most force while the inner foam core is relatively less stressed. By glassing the outer surface of each panel I am adding strength and rigidity where it is most valuable to the panel.
of course this extra glassing adds weight, cost, and effort to the project, so it's a tradeoff for sure. If I was looking at my design and trying to cut weight, I would rather use a thinner plywood, but I couldn't source anything lighter of a decent quality without ordering much more expensive marine grade ply. Everything is a trade off i suppose
@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal Understood, a hollow aluminun tube retains it's strength because the outer portions of the tube provide the bulk of the strength. Same principle applies here. I will be copying lots of your design. You are correct, Okoume MP would be the best plywood for the project, for the ceiling if no where else. I think I will glass inner and outer of the ceiling, like you. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Looking forward to the next video.
@@brandonsummey2418 cool. glad I was able to articulate the concept well enough.
hoping to make some progress on the build this weekend and start editing the next video next week
Great work!
Amazing job
Nice Job !!
I loved this sistem!
Can I use The same on my motorhome?
I suppose you could figure it out
Great work
Great video thanks for the lessons
Yes great job
I want to build a popup trailer box that will fit on my utility trailer, so I'm studying your popup design. It has features that I had already thought of for my design, such as the opposing flat bars that seal the two halves, once the top is extended to its fully up position. My hesitation centers mostly around the exterior finish, as I would like to build my box out of EPS foam, but I have zero fiberglass experience, and I am a little concerned about the difficulty and cost of using fiberglass, but not convinced that poormans fiberglass is an acceptable substitute.
If you can do "poomans fiberglass" you can do actual fiberglass as far as the skills go. You can reduce the cost by using polyester resin instead of epoxy. By having a denser core material (structural foam or wood) you can also use thinner glass which means less resin and lower cost as well.
You may know a better EPS foam option than me, but with my limited knowledge I would steer you at XPS foam instead of EPS. From what I'm aware of the XPS has better insulative properties, is more rigid, easier to work with, and comes in various densities.
@ Thanks for your reply. That’s exactly the kind of advice I needed.
That's a lotta work!
Yes it was!
PERFECT!👍
So Awesome! Dang You Tube isnt sending me notifications when your new vids post even though Ive got the bell selected for all. What do you think that beaty of a camper weighs?
Dang RUclips needs to get their act together haha
My best guess is that the camper will weigh 1200 lbs dry once I finish the cabinetry. I'll have to try to find somewhere local I can weigh it once it's done.
I finally weighed it and go into detail in my latest video: ruclips.net/video/Bwbfe8-MII0/видео.html
Super cool!
Hi nice idea! Do u think making this out of xps foam is a good idea? I want to do this but it needs to be lighter for me
Yeah, I think XPS foam could work for a similar build
Brilliant!
Freak'n speechless, dude. The ingenuity of this build is something to behold. I can't remember if I've asked this before, but do you have an idea of how much this is going to weigh when it's all done?
Thanks Scott. I'll get back to you on the weight. I know I have a guesstimate written down somewhere.
My best guess was an empty weight of 1200 pounds.
I finally weighed it and go into detail in my latest video: ruclips.net/video/Bwbfe8-MII0/видео.html
I like the idea of the design. But why not use actuators to raise the roof by just one push of a button? Just a suggestion.
I looked into them a while back and was seeing reports from other DIY builders that were having trouble getting all of the actuators to raise and lower at the same rate, particularly if their battery bank was running low. It seems like the actuators are getting more popular now, so I'm guessing that new products or new knowledge has become readily available to the DIY community to solve this, but I had already started building the camper with this mechanism in mined.
looking good
Insane !! Nice work !!
I LIKE this construction! Did you by chance build boats and/or airplanes? It's that good.
Thanks
I've never built a boat or plane, but I've done a fair bit of repair work on boats and surfboards.
looks great
Great idea! What’s the total wieght? I missed it
I go into camper weight, and new vehicle curb weight in this video: ruclips.net/video/Bwbfe8-MII0/видео.htmlsi=ljeKHpqwONtNBWww&t=76
Hello Matt, How did you decide on what size Lift Supports you should use?
I wanted to mount the lift supports as vertical as possible, so I looked at the extended and collapsed lengths and tried to get the shortest ones possible that still extended long enough for my application.
Excellent!
Great build , what the final weight ?
thanks. I haven't weighed it, but I was expecting it to be around 1200 pounds
I finally weighed it and go into detail in my latest video: ruclips.net/video/Bwbfe8-MII0/видео.html
I got recommended to you by a content theft farm using your footage, but all that matters is I’m here now
Welcome!
I admire your skills and persistence here! I'm thinking of doing a similar project on my HMMWV, but with aluminum/aluminum, aluminum/wood, or aluminum/FRP composite panels. Lovin the home built panels, but one question...
3:13 ....what does this puppy end up weighing in total...and is the truck/tires rated for it at finish weight?
Thanks
Unfortunately I don't have a way of weighing the camper. I plan to weigh it at a truck scale eventually, but there aren't any publicly accessible ones near me.
My best guess is that the camper weighs 1200 pounds. The truck is rated for 1950 pounds of cargo weight capacity. Obviously getting rid of the bed and tailgate help out a bit, but I expect to be close to GVWR when I'm loaded up for a trip.
Drawer slides. How simple. Why hasn't anyone done this before?
keep it simple 👍
Maybe I missed it but I didn’t see you add insulation to the walls and roof that raise up?
The roof and walls that pop up are made with the same process as the rest of the camper walls. So a cross section would be 6oz fiberglass-5mm plywood-5/8 inch close cell foam-5mm plywood-6 oz fiberglass. The area around the window is just fiberglass and plywood, so maybe that is what through you off
Hi Matt. Nice build!! I've watched the series a couple times and really like a lot of your solutions. A question and by no means a critique...why did you install the front gas struts angling east/west towards the center line of the camper instead of north/south. Does their placement have any impact when you are in bed?
Good question. Basically, I didn't figure out what struts I would need ahead of time and didn't realize they would have to be mounted so far off vertical to fit and provide the stroke I needed. So, poor design/planning lead me to mount them like that. It would probably be worthwhile to try mounting them in different orientations to experiment with how it affects the movement of the pop-up
Gotcha. Been there a million times. I recently remodeled a soft side pop up truck camper and have had a ball in it. For the most the soft side has not been an issue until we get into freezing temps. Building a hard side like yours has really been tempting. Thanks for the reply, the ideas and please keep doing what you are doing.
@@mikecasey4766 I definitely considered a soft sided pop-up so that I could make the folded height of the camper shorter, but in the end I'm happy I went with the hard side. It's nice to have a comfortable, convenient setup but the important thing is the travel. If you're getting out there than you're doing it right 👍
Great Build Matt, The height on your extension and the overall height at the bedroom floor too the roof when it is raised?
Thanks.
I'm not sure exactly what you are asking, but I'll try to answer.
The extension is 16.5 inches. In other words the roof moves up and down 16.5 inches. The distance from the floor to the ceiling is 71 inches
Thank you, That's what I was looking for. @@TheTravelingTogetherJournal
Incredible work--Congrats. Have you thought about using linear actuators to lift the topper? Subscribed!
I considered linear actuators, but thought this would be a simpler solution. I'm sure it could be done with actuators, but I have seen a number of DIY attempts go poorly as they had a lot of trouble syncing the actuators or having the actuators become un-synced if the batteries weren't fully charged.
@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal What's interior height when the topper is down? Thank you!
@@ozmanfidaar6311 54.5 inches down
71 inches up
@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal Thanks
Thanks for the detailed video, this is very helpful for anyone building a DIY camper, I love the pop up mechanism and the detailed explanation. I have been wanting to make something similar, do you think this type of pop up can handle strong winds every now and then?
Yes. once it is fully up and the aluminum trim/seal components are pressed together it becomes quite stable. Pushing on the side of the pop up while it is in the up position the entire truck rocks without any noticeable movement between the pop-up section and the rest of the camper.
Hey Matt, what are the specs on the gas struts, do you happen to know the stroke length and how many inches the roof lifts upwards? Thank you!
@@Nimesh222 The 2 struts that are mounted at the rear of the camper are rated for 60 pounds of lift force each. The 2 mounted forward are rated for 80 pounds each. The roof moves 16.25 inches vertically. the stroke on the struts is 15.2 inches
@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal thanks so much!