its very quick, from 30s to 1 minute. But I simply release the clamp when i start next row of boards. Once its clamped for few secounds it doesnt go back when you release it. Cheers bro!
Thanks bro...not a bog reason for that, just no need for more glue in my opinion. It always feels like a solid joint between rows of boards. Even cheap woodglue from screwfix or flooring glue is good enough in my opinion. Its cheaper also which is a bonus. Oh also i never glue side of the boards/the width i only do long sides....
Its is strongly recommended that both header and length joints be bonded with PVAC and NEVER spot glue, to avoid weakness and potential gapping as the floor naturally expands and contracts.
I stoped glueing the width of boards (the header) because when you pull boards together with flooring straps (clamps) you want that board to slide into the one thats next to it within same row of boards. If you glue the header -the shorter, the width part pf the board than you may struggle to clamp it tight and flash without any gaps. Overall it is recomennded but when you fit flooring you realize that its harder to fit it if youre glueing all around edge. And it doesnt effect the joing with glue applied in parts. Thanks for a good comment and good point 💪
Very true, in other video im gona add this up cos often they come up and what i do to prevent it is simply i lay heavy unpacked box of flooring on the edge on last row when i pull the straps together.
If your only temporarily clamping it tight, not waiting to set the glue then surely this is just the same as getting a wood block and hammering the sides into place? I think I'll try this without buying the clamps if I can
NEVER ever use a hammer to tap in the planks. Use a rubber hammer and a cut off that protects the "Tongue " . The slightest bit of damage can cause the planks NOT to line up correctly
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Thanks!
Nice job!
Thanks Eddie.
Good video mate, how long do u need to clamp each floorboard before u move onto the next one
its very quick, from 30s to 1 minute. But I simply release the clamp when i start next row of boards. Once its clamped for few secounds it doesnt go back when you release it. Cheers bro!
Looks great! I notice you don’t glue along the whole groove but just in a few places. Is there a reason for that?
Thanks bro...not a bog reason for that, just no need for more glue in my opinion. It always feels like a solid joint between rows of boards. Even cheap woodglue from screwfix or flooring glue is good enough in my opinion. Its cheaper also which is a bonus. Oh also i never glue side of the boards/the width i only do long sides....
@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter Thanks. I also wondered if this might help if you ever needed to take a few up to access pipes or wires under the floor.
Its is strongly recommended that both header and length joints be bonded with PVAC and NEVER spot glue, to avoid weakness and potential gapping as the floor naturally expands and contracts.
I stoped glueing the width of boards (the header) because when you pull boards together with flooring straps (clamps) you want that board to slide into the one thats next to it within same row of boards. If you glue the header -the shorter, the width part pf the board than you may struggle to clamp it tight and flash without any gaps. Overall it is recomennded but when you fit flooring you realize that its harder to fit it if youre glueing all around edge. And it doesnt effect the joing with glue applied in parts. Thanks for a good comment and good point 💪
Don’t the strap clamps make the floor come up at the edges? In other words it lifts the just placed piece up.
Very true, in other video im gona add this up cos often they come up and what i do to prevent it is simply i lay heavy unpacked box of flooring on the edge on last row when i pull the straps together.
If your only temporarily clamping it tight, not waiting to set the glue then surely this is just the same as getting a wood block and hammering the sides into place? I think I'll try this without buying the clamps if I can
Is that hickory ?
Hey buddy, its oak on top, plywood below = engineered flooring.
@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter nice. I got some similar from lumber liquidators. That color is the best
NEVER ever use a hammer to tap in the planks. Use a rubber hammer and a cut off that protects the "Tongue " . The slightest bit of damage can cause the planks NOT to line up correctly
I agree!