The Wago failing like that is a good thing it acted as a fuse and possibly saved the house burning down. It still survived WAY over it's rated current and unlike the terminal block which seemingly was better hasn't screws to get loose over time. Long term old style terminal blocks are far more of a liability.
Watching you vids at least 3-4 times a week, only been in the trade for 18 months and I'm 45 years old so saves me untold embarrassment when I forget how to do something, I can scroll through the library of vids you posted and usually pick up a few tips. Thank you so much, keep it up m8 really appreciate it. Don.
The connector block compared to the others did well, but it's a big lump of metal which just goes to show they aren't bad if installed correctly with some care. Everything took more than double the rated load before it started to go wrong which is comforting to know.
Manufacturers will always give themselves so much room in the ratings charts, much like supermarket use by dates, they go well over to cover themselves
i wont think is a good thing to have the cable be the most likely point of ignition. if the connector would have failed at its rating with out a spark now that would have stopped the chance of a fire. after all the circuit is now broken.
@@highkicker11 I'm no Sparky, but I'd have thought failing without risk of spark isn't part of the design requirements of these sort of connectors. Isn't that what the fuses are supposed to do (assuming they haven't been bypassed)?
@@Thermalions yeah fuses are suppose to do that but if some idiot by passes it. the former first responder in me would be happy if a major fire would have been stopped because of the connector failing when it reaches it stated limit. because i just know there is no such thing as fool proof.
@@highkicker11 the heat generated by the poor connection is enough to start the fire. A loose connection doesn't need to have any visible arcing. The higher resistance of the connection is what causes heat and eventually failure of the connection
Judging by the amount of current that the cable can take and the connectors, I feel safer when using them as they can take considerably more than their rating factor. It just goes to show, as long as you have the correct sized breaker the installation should remain safe..... Assuming correct installation and to regs of course. Great vid Batman, love the science side, also big thumbs up to John Ward.
The Wago failing like that is a good thing it acted as a fuse and possibly saved the house burning down. It still survived WAY over it's rated current and unlike the terminal block which seemingly was better hasn't screws to get loose over time. Long term old style terminal blocks are far more of a liability.
It was good to see that all the connection method held above the rated specifications. For this to happen in the real world the overcurrent protection would have to fail. Wago failing might not be a bad problem at failure point as it opened the circuit whereas all others would have kept generating more heat. Nice video glad you kept staying safety precautions.
Daisy chained extension leads would be interesting too. I think we all know the answers to most of these already but, just like Big Clive and ElectroBoom, we want fire :)
I'd be interested also to see what the coiled vs uncoiled lead is like with a load equivalent to say a radiant/oil heater etc on it (or maybe three - just for the views; no-one would ever do that, would they?).
@@Liberator975 I miss it too. I was just thinking about his channel the other day and was going to have a check for new content, but given your comment I guess he hasn't returned for a while :( The guy was bonkers (in a good way) but I understand he had some personal issues going on at the time. I just hope he's on a good path and happy despite not posting to RUclips
Must say youre wasted as just an electrician, you should be on the tv or teaching people, youre so natural , and you've done the job you'd be training people to do, another great video. Paul
I too have seen John Ward's video on this as well as one made by Electromagnetic Videos. The results both of them got for what each type of connector can handle for overloads is mostly the same. As the plastic and cable both failed long before the connections would've
I have not long ago found your channel and really enjoying it been watching most videos on the night when I can not sleep because of having a cast on my arm
I have taught electrical trades and NEC classes in the US for 41 years. I find it fascinating the difference in wiring methods and codes. I always encourage my students to watch your videos to learn how other countries perform their work. You are indeed a professional!
Good indication that actually the old style connector blocks are best due to having the most metal and largest csa of contact with the cable cores. Does just go to show that going back to the metal cable clips is a massive improvement in safety, especially on fire escape routes.
The Wago failing like that is a good thing it acted as a fuse and possibly saved the house burning down. It still survived WAY over it's rated current and unlike the terminal block which seemingly was better hasn't screws to get loose over time. Long term old style terminal blocks are far more of a liability.
yes,screw terminal safe forever even in socket,plug,socket,mcb,main switch use screw terminal connection.. for joint cable for permanent please use cable link..
thanks for a very instructive video Nick. I did watch the John Ward video also, additional line of thought - use 2.5mm TPS so the behaviour of the pvc insulation can be observed. great work.
Great stuff Nick. A picture is worth a thousand words. I know JW has maybe cornered the market on this sort of stuff but the more of this the better for me.
You should do it with the old fuses to see what they blow at and compare it to MCB's. Would be interesting to see the difference between old and new gear.
Great idea, that would be a good one to see. The old rewireables are supposed to have a fusing factor of around 2 on overload, and CBs an I2 of around 1.45In, so would be good to see it in action.
@@johnhoward2104 yes, sorry I should have said that it was fuse wire that he was testing, it would be interesting to see if the overcurrents applied to MCB's match up to the regs as in regards to trip times 👍
This was an awesoe segment dude, thank you. There's probably a discussion to be had about DC amps from a welder vs AC amp,s from a ring main, continuous current vs RMS current, and the effect the difference has on current handling of a given cable... but we'll leave that for another day... Or for JW :) What is enlightening is that the oldest type of interconnect (screw-down block connector / chock block) had both the best current handling and the best mechanical integrity of all the types of interconnect. Do you think this will change how you join cables in future? Wago are easy to install... but you've just proen they're the least reliable in a fault condition...
@@b96m13 120A definitely seems like a fault condition to me 🤣🤣 One day someone's gonna wire their EV charger in 2.5mm and the OCP is gonna fail you can be sure of it...
If the insulation has melted off the entire cable then I think we can forgive the Wago... In this case it acted as a fuse and turned off the 2.5mm house-sized heating element 🤣 I once bought 2x "refurbished" stage lights from eBay which both contained undersized old style block-connectors that were extremely hot and actually melting the outside plastic of the device and was severely burning inside!... so, it's not a case of "block connector is better than a wago" it's a case of using the correct tool for the job. If either is not-rated for the amount of current it's a fire waiting to happen. In some ways the Wago is actually less dangerous in the hands of an idiot because it always applies the correct torque (screw-down connectors can be under or over tightened), and as they just look a bit flimsier so people don't just put them in without stopping and reading the rating which is printed on them, unlike most terminal blocks.
Love your work and find it very interesting, you are clear, precise and come across very trustworthy. shame you are not located closer to where I live :):) you got yourself another subscriber.... have a fab day.
Not really, do you want a wire acting as a heating element? The Wago went first acting like a fuse, which I would say is the safer of the bunch. @ 4 X the rating they all exceeded what they were disigned to do.
@@TheXsheeple with a big dramatic spark like that 😳 mmmmm ! yep they all did well over 👍 but the “chock block” almost looked reusable (of course you wouldn’t 🤪) and of course it was meant as a joke hence the : ) 🙄
very important demonstration, pretty sure you will have college lecturers using your videos to demonstrate the importance of the circuit design and protective device selection. i saw the sparks fly banner and it reminded me of my old RUclips channel where i overloaded things to destruction. i still do that sort of stuff just for entertainment but there is not much science behind it unfortunately its just dumb experiments, i want to produce more electronic content. i have some more light controller projects that i am hoping to squeeze a video out on. thanks for sharing.
congrats on the milestone mate really enjoying your videos. I'm currently a truck driver just enrolled on a course to become a spark so picking up any tips and tricks from yourself i used to work as a chippy so hoping the 2 trades combined can generate a decent amount of work
You have to take into account that you are using a lower voltage but high amperage, also that the welder will be using a DC direct current not AC alternating current , so you are testing these connectors not directly in how they would be used in peoples homes, you should also have a proven amp meter in the circuit and not just trust the welder dial . But does show the dangers of what happens when loading is not taken into account on any electrical circuits. Keep up the vlogs Nick
Holy smokes. Hey which one of those would you use for a bathroom vanity light?? It has two 60 volt bulbs. Not nearly the power like in the demonstration. I have to make a stranded wire to solid wire connection. I know electricity creates heat through resistance and I don't want my house going up in smoke. If you were in my boots what would you do?? I do appreciate any help or advice and I thank you in advance.
Would you rather have the terminal that keeps the connection through 150 amps, or something that can take 100amps but would fails earlier acting as a kind of fuse?
So the connector block is probably at or close to the wire temperature,but the plastic casing is restricting.the heat emissions which is why it appears cooler. Very.good video
Quick question please mate, would you say i could get away with a standard through crimp when making a joint in a cable and burying it in a wall ? I'm having to move a couple of sockets to a safe distance from the hob (300mm) but as per usual they've called me in after the kitchens been installed, so I'm left with no choice but to join the cable somehow, originally I thought every joint needed to be accessible but I read on the IET website that through crimps are deemed as an acceptable permanent joint and can be burried ? Would appreciate your advice 👍🏻
Whilst other youtubers have done this, a test of fake wago's would be good to add to your library. I was doing a video myself on fake wagos, and when I was looking just on ebay, there were so many I ended up stopping. There are plenty which the copiers have done, which wago dont even do, whoever design the wagos for the copiers, have seemingly taken the product range further, and I have no doubt that wago will in the end, copy the copiers. Also, you inadvertently demonstrated why you use metal clips in certain areas instead of plastic ones. Finally congrats on getting 40k+ subs, you will have to give Dan some tips lol 😜😜😜
Love you’re channel mate , the wago 221 in the uk are rated at 32amps , the other rating on the other side , think it’s 300 odd volts is only for Japan and that 20amp rating . All the best dude
I went through a cable at my father in laws, 32a radial, the cable connector i repaired it with melted and it was rated for 32a 250v, had to repair it today with the same connector a year after the original repair due to that happening, what would you recommend for inside a plaster wall to repair it better, as i don't trust the cable connector anymore
Thanks nick interesting video. One suggestion if you are going to do more of this type of testing “experimenting” it may be worth setting up a dedicated power point though a contractor and e stop so if anything goes wrong you can cut the supply quickly.
Good video mate, really surprised as well that they withstood such a high current before completely dying, keep up the good work mate, we appreciate the videos!!
Great Video, Wagos is just starting to show up here in United States, majority of HVAC distributors here only sell Wire Nuts and no Wago. I did ask them if they were planning to stock them, their reply was they never heard of them.
I love a good litmus test of cables and connections. Would you be able to rig up accessories with poor connections and illustrate how hot these high resistance connections can get in the real world. Use of the thermal imaging camera would be great on this experiment.
To be honest, I expected the 'chocbloc' connector to do well, if a good initial connection was made, it's when incorrectly connected they suffer. Examples like overtightned screws and threads stripped so connection tension is lost etc.
I'm looking to put an LED light outside I have a halogen one at the moment but the Leeds not for led so I need a outside junction box to connect the wire to my new led security light those clips will be ok to use won't they LEVER CONNECTOR
4mm single core is 37 amps , 2.5 mm is 27 amps table 4D1A For 70 c thermoplastic single core page 401 Or did you use the single core 90 c thermosetting cable table 4E1A ?
40.2k subscribers when I watched this - congratulations. The wago has the least copper in it, so not surprising that it was the first to fail. I wonder if the connection pressure of the wago was also affected by the heat. That looks like an inverter style welder, so as per below, would be interesting to see a true RMS clamp meter reading the current to see how it compares to the readout on the welder.
Hi can you tell me if its okay to extend cables in the radial socket with wagos? The other day I opened the socket and there was 2 neutrals with visible copper which means both of them were damaged so I decided to cut them short and put 2 into wago and extend with just one neutral. That specific socket was second last and the last one was just above the one I was working. It bugs me now after time that I should maybe extend with 2 neutrals instead of one.
With my computer and 2 monitors, plugged into an extension, no issues. Wild part which will most likely trigger you, I plug a portable AC into an extension that is plugged into the extension my computer is plugged into. However, I have checked during the summer when both are on (and I don't run the AC full speed given my room is small), and no issues with heat. I probably ought to check what amps all these things use next time summer rolls around...
The problems in installations usually come from bad jobs or connections that have been worked on. The connector block is great if you seat everything correctly once and tighten it down with the appropriate amount of pressure. Even better if you use ferrules. But if you work on the connection or don't use ferrules and only clamp down certain strands while others are either loose or damaged, things can get funny fast. If you take care and do everything correct, you don't have to worry about all the options. Question is which is the most likely to be used in a wrong way? That's where the Wago shines in my opinion. You can disconnect and reconnect pretty much as often as you want and you won't get a damaged cable, while being able to see through the thing to make sure the connector is well seated.
Great work but just a note Wago 221 4mm are rated at 32A not 20A , 20 Amp is the rating as per China & abroad, Wago 221 6mm rated at 41A Information direct from Wago. just a question was that welder a AC output or DC,
Presumably these are all performing well above the rated current due to the very favourable conditions here: open air in a cold unit. Presumably the rating has to be for significantly worse conditions (e.g. high ambient temperature, covered in insulation) as well as, of course, some safety factor for good measure.
I'm not surprised that the wago failed first. I was in the trade yonks ago, and, to me those things look horribly flimsy. The best connection - in accessible positions - would almost certainly be a porcelain connector block! 34A for 2.5 seems very high: in my day, 2.5 T&E clipped direct was rated at 27A for a conductor operating temperature of 70C.
Sparks fly! I've been watching youtubes on celebrities private jets. Will you be making a video about yours now your a youtube celeb ? It's a great title.
Did the WAGO burned or did the cable broke near the WAGO? 130 Ampere in a domestic house? The usaly the fuse cant take that. We in Germany have usaly only 32, 50 or 62 A sealed industrial fuses before the electricity meter for domestic houses. Than the LS current breaker up to B 16A (3 phase 230 Volt)
So you tested why beyond he specifications on the wire and the connectors are was surprised they failed. Not sure how this is a test of anything. I have WAGOs in my ceiling lights, most of my electrical requirements in my shed. I start the platform drill powered my basic three core cable and the joints are WAGO and never a smell. When I start up my grinding discs there is no issue with the electrics. Because the WAGO I use ae rated to 30AMP... an electrical oven is 30AMP... as long as you aren't using WAGO for the mains electric coming into the house then what its the issue?
What house has 100w running though the cables... I really want to know. Given the more that comes is 30Amp/Hours based off the massive control, which then goes to the consumer unit that in highest Amp is the Oven. At know point is the average UK house getting close o the "demonstration" of 210volts.
Excellent ! Thank you, good old connector block, been using them for 65 years !!!🇮🇪☘️
The Wago failing like that is a good thing it acted as a fuse and possibly saved the house burning down. It still survived WAY over it's rated current and unlike the terminal block which seemingly was better hasn't screws to get loose over time. Long term old style terminal blocks are far more of a liability.
Watching you vids at least 3-4 times a week, only been in the trade for 18 months and I'm 45 years old so saves me untold embarrassment when I forget how to do something, I can scroll through the library of vids you posted and usually pick up a few tips. Thank you so much, keep it up m8 really appreciate it. Don.
Good old connector strip,never let me down 👍
The connector block compared to the others did well, but it's a big lump of metal which just goes to show they aren't bad if installed correctly with some care. Everything took more than double the rated load before it started to go wrong which is comforting to know.
Manufacturers will always give themselves so much room in the ratings charts, much like supermarket use by dates, they go well over to cover themselves
i wont think is a good thing to have the cable be the most likely point of ignition. if the connector would have failed at its rating with out a spark now that would have stopped the chance of a fire. after all the circuit is now broken.
@@highkicker11 I'm no Sparky, but I'd have thought failing without risk of spark isn't part of the design requirements of these sort of connectors. Isn't that what the fuses are supposed to do (assuming they haven't been bypassed)?
@@Thermalions yeah fuses are suppose to do that but if some idiot by passes it. the former first responder in me would be happy if a major fire would have been stopped because of the connector failing when it reaches it stated limit. because i just know there is no such thing as fool proof.
@@highkicker11 the heat generated by the poor connection is enough to start the fire. A loose connection doesn't need to have any visible arcing. The higher resistance of the connection is what causes heat and eventually failure of the connection
Judging by the amount of current that the cable can take and the connectors, I feel safer when using them as they can take considerably more than their rating factor. It just goes to show, as long as you have the correct sized breaker the installation should remain safe..... Assuming correct installation and to regs of course. Great vid Batman, love the science side, also big thumbs up to John Ward.
What exactly is the purpose of a test like this when your biggest point of failure is the wire insulation itself?
@@mts7274 i guess confirming compliance and adequacy?...
As a prehistoric dinosaur spark , I have not become a huge fan of the modern day Wago, so this video has reassured me.
Great demonstration, cheers.
The Wago failing like that is a good thing it acted as a fuse and possibly saved the house burning down. It still survived WAY over it's rated current and unlike the terminal block which seemingly was better hasn't screws to get loose over time. Long term old style terminal blocks are far more of a liability.
is has failed way way above its rating... i dont see that as a problem even less so when there are WAGOs that can easily handle 32 and 40A ?!
It was good to see that all the connection method held above the rated specifications. For this to happen in the real world the overcurrent protection would have to fail. Wago failing might not be a bad problem at failure point as it opened the circuit whereas all others would have kept generating more heat. Nice video glad you kept staying safety precautions.
Suggestion : coiled vs. uncoiled extension lead. Also cheapo multi-way socket blocks - can they actually handle 13A?
Daisy chained extension leads would be interesting too. I think we all know the answers to most of these already but, just like Big Clive and ElectroBoom, we want fire :)
I'd be interested also to see what the coiled vs uncoiled lead is like with a load equivalent to say a radiant/oil heater etc on it (or maybe three - just for the views; no-one would ever do that, would they?).
@@mikepembo8297 the original flame man was photonicinduction. Miss his conent
@@Liberator975 I miss it too. I was just thinking about his channel the other day and was going to have a check for new content, but given your comment I guess he hasn't returned for a while :(
The guy was bonkers (in a good way) but I understand he had some personal issues going on at the time. I just hope he's on a good path and happy despite not posting to RUclips
@@mikepembo8297 absolutely
Some great information there. I always tell people off when I can see they are overloading extension leads. Big thumbs up. 👍
Definitely my new favourite sparky on youtube!
Brilliant video, didn't expect the choc block to last
Well done on the 40k most deserved!!
Must say youre wasted as just an electrician, you should be on the tv or teaching people, youre so natural , and you've done the job you'd be training people to do, another great video. Paul
Thanks mate 👍👍
Flamin' heck Bundy. This video is pure fire !
I too have seen John Ward's video on this as well as one made by Electromagnetic Videos. The results both of them got for what each type of connector can handle for overloads is mostly the same. As the plastic and cable both failed long before the connections would've
I have not long ago found your channel and really enjoying it been watching most videos on the night when I can not sleep because of having a cast on my arm
I have taught electrical trades and NEC classes in the US for 41 years. I find it fascinating the difference in wiring methods and codes. I always encourage my students to watch your videos to learn how other countries perform their work. You are indeed a professional!
Good indication that actually the old style connector blocks are best due to having the most metal and largest csa of contact with the cable cores.
Does just go to show that going back to the metal cable clips is a massive improvement in safety, especially on fire escape routes.
The Wago failing like that is a good thing it acted as a fuse and possibly saved the house burning down. It still survived WAY over it's rated current and unlike the terminal block which seemingly was better hasn't screws to get loose over time. Long term old style terminal blocks are far more of a liability.
yes,screw terminal safe forever even in socket,plug,socket,mcb,main switch use screw terminal connection.. for joint cable for permanent please use cable link..
Actually reassured by this vid. Surprised they could take so much!
So if i wanted to extend a ring main what would be the best way
thanks for a very instructive video Nick. I did watch the John Ward video also, additional line of thought - use 2.5mm TPS so the behaviour of the pvc insulation can be observed. great work.
Did you check the calibration of the display on the welder?
Nice one Nick. i bet like me you thought the old connector block would have gone first. very interesting.
Great work to show none electrical person not to do and what I a nail or screw can penetrate cables can do
Congrats on 40k Nick 👌 and great new content 👏.
Great stuff Nick. A picture is worth a thousand words. I know JW has maybe cornered the market on this sort of stuff but the more of this the better for me.
You should do it with the old fuses to see what they blow at and compare it to MCB's. Would be interesting to see the difference between old and new gear.
That’s a good one to be fair
Great idea, that would be a good one to see. The old rewireables are supposed to have a fusing factor of around 2 on overload, and CBs an I2 of around 1.45In, so would be good to see it in action.
John Ward has done it 👍
@@darknessdestroyer5524 found this one from good 'ol JW for the fuse wire: ruclips.net/video/WhF9Tn8q9us/видео.html but couldn't see one for CBs.
@@johnhoward2104 yes, sorry I should have said that it was fuse wire that he was testing, it would be interesting to see if the overcurrents applied to MCB's match up to the regs as in regards to trip times 👍
This was an awesoe segment dude, thank you. There's probably a discussion to be had about DC amps from a welder vs AC amp,s from a ring main, continuous current vs RMS current, and the effect the difference has on current handling of a given cable... but we'll leave that for another day... Or for JW :)
What is enlightening is that the oldest type of interconnect (screw-down block connector / chock block) had both the best current handling and the best mechanical integrity of all the types of interconnect.
Do you think this will change how you join cables in future?
Wago are easy to install... but you've just proen they're the least reliable in a fault condition...
Least reliable at 120 amps yeah haha
@@b96m13 120A definitely seems like a fault condition to me 🤣🤣
One day someone's gonna wire their EV charger in 2.5mm and the OCP is gonna fail you can be sure of it...
If the insulation has melted off the entire cable then I think we can forgive the Wago... In this case it acted as a fuse and turned off the 2.5mm house-sized heating element 🤣 I once bought 2x "refurbished" stage lights from eBay which both contained undersized old style block-connectors that were extremely hot and actually melting the outside plastic of the device and was severely burning inside!... so, it's not a case of "block connector is better than a wago" it's a case of using the correct tool for the job. If either is not-rated for the amount of current it's a fire waiting to happen. In some ways the Wago is actually less dangerous in the hands of an idiot because it always applies the correct torque (screw-down connectors can be under or over tightened), and as they just look a bit flimsier so people don't just put them in without stopping and reading the rating which is printed on them, unlike most terminal blocks.
Wagos are maintanace free. Connector blocks aren't. The 221 is also available in a 40 amp version now.
DC and RMS = same heating effect until skin effect kicks in at higher frequencies. Then ac will cause more heat.
Looks like good old choc-block connectors are the future then 😄
😂😂
Not maintaince free though.
@@arcadia1701e tail light guarantee 👌🏼😂
Ok if you want to burn your house down
@@puntoboy_gaming exactly 😊
Wago 221 are 32amp in the UK
That was some good shit. Fair play Bundy your A1. Big respect from Ireland
Love your work and find it very interesting, you are clear, precise and come across very trustworthy. shame you are not located closer to where I live :):) you got yourself another subscriber.... have a fab day.
That wago took alot of beating mr bundy!!!haha, keep up the good work!
Extremely satisfying to watch 👏
Amazing that the old fashioned cable block did so well
Congrats on 40K. You could have said the plastic clips were a deliberate demonstration of premature collapse :)
"chock block" the winner : )
Not really, do you want a wire acting as a heating element? The Wago went first acting like a fuse, which I would say is the safer of the bunch. @ 4 X the rating they all exceeded what they were disigned to do.
@@TheXsheeple with a big dramatic spark like that 😳 mmmmm ! yep they all did well over 👍 but the “chock block” almost looked reusable (of course you wouldn’t 🤪) and of course it was meant as a joke hence the : ) 🙄
@@TheXsheeple Connectors are meant to connect cables together the best they can. They aren’t meant to be fuses !!!🤪
@@AndyK.1 It did what it was rated to do.:)
The Wago possibly saved the house catching fire.
very important demonstration, pretty sure you will have college lecturers using your videos to demonstrate the importance of the circuit design and protective device selection.
i saw the sparks fly banner and it reminded me of my old RUclips channel where i overloaded things to destruction. i still do that sort of stuff just for entertainment but there is not much science behind it unfortunately its just dumb experiments, i want to produce more electronic content. i have some more light controller projects that i am hoping to squeeze a video out on.
thanks for sharing.
Great video,keep up the good work
Congratulations for 40k subs , lovely to see such a honest guy (and adam) grow , keep it up.
Ps - I need a kitchen re-wire XD
congrats on the milestone mate really enjoying your videos. I'm currently a truck driver just enrolled on a course to become a spark so picking up any tips and tricks from yourself i used to work as a chippy so hoping the 2 trades combined can generate a decent amount of work
Congrats on 40,000 subs, another great video, loving the different types of videos, stay safe Nick and team 😁
You have to take into account that you are using a lower voltage but high amperage, also that the welder will be using a DC direct current not AC alternating current , so you are testing these connectors not directly in how they would be used in peoples homes, you should also have a proven amp meter in the circuit and not just trust the welder dial . But does show the dangers of what happens when loading is not taken into account on any electrical circuits. Keep up the vlogs Nick
Holy smokes. Hey which one of those would you use for a bathroom vanity light?? It has two 60 volt bulbs. Not nearly the power like in the demonstration. I have to make a stranded wire to solid wire connection. I know electricity creates heat through resistance and I don't want my house going up in smoke. If you were in my boots what would you do?? I do appreciate any help or advice and I thank you in advance.
very interesting to see what go on keep the videos
Would you rather have the terminal that keeps the connection through 150 amps, or something that can take 100amps but would fails earlier acting as a kind of fuse?
So the connector block is probably at or close to the wire temperature,but the plastic casing is restricting.the heat emissions which is why it appears cooler. Very.good video
Quick question please mate, would you say i could get away with a standard through crimp when making a joint in a cable and burying it in a wall ?
I'm having to move a couple of sockets to a safe distance from the hob (300mm) but as per usual they've called me in after the kitchens been installed, so I'm left with no choice but to join the cable somehow, originally I thought every joint needed to be accessible but I read on the IET website that through crimps are deemed as an acceptable permanent joint and can be burried ?
Would appreciate your advice 👍🏻
Great work as always. Thanks for the awesome content stay safe and take care
Well done on 40k mate you got there in the end 😂
Lol cheers bud 🙌🙌
Surely the wago failing in this scenario is a good thing if it interrupts the current and prevents fire?
Whilst other youtubers have done this, a test of fake wago's would be good to add to your library. I was doing a video myself on fake wagos, and when I was looking just on ebay, there were so many I ended up stopping. There are plenty which the copiers have done, which wago dont even do, whoever design the wagos for the copiers, have seemingly taken the product range further, and I have no doubt that wago will in the end, copy the copiers. Also, you inadvertently demonstrated why you use metal clips in certain areas instead of plastic ones. Finally congrats on getting 40k+ subs, you will have to give Dan some tips lol 😜😜😜
you bought a welder. you brought the welder with you to the unit.
Love you’re channel mate , the wago 221 in the uk are rated at 32amps , the other rating on the other side , think it’s 300 odd volts is only for Japan and that 20amp rating .
All the best dude
Very interesting, thanks Nick 👌🏻
Hi Nick, thanks for the video. I think that the Wagos are rated at 32A.
I went through a cable at my father in laws, 32a radial, the cable connector i repaired it with melted and it was rated for 32a 250v, had to repair it today with the same connector a year after the original repair due to that happening, what would you recommend for inside a plaster wall to repair it better, as i don't trust the cable connector anymore
Thanks nick interesting video. One suggestion if you are going to do more of this type of testing “experimenting” it may be worth setting up a dedicated power point though a contractor and e stop so if anything goes wrong you can cut the supply quickly.
gives me vibes of photonicinduction videos i miss his stuff good video mate !
Nice to see a 2.5mm T&E tested.
Good video mate, really surprised as well that they withstood such a high current before completely dying, keep up the good work mate, we appreciate the videos!!
Great Video, Wagos is just starting to show up here in United States, majority of HVAC distributors here only sell Wire Nuts and no Wago. I did ask them if they were planning to stock them, their reply was they never heard of them.
Ideal do similar connectors. I believe that Ideal are better known in the USA.
Very interesting and well presented. Looking forward to all the future experiments! Awesome work on 40k!
Mint Video dude.
Nice PB Bags 👍🏻
I love a good litmus test of cables and connections.
Would you be able to rig up accessories with poor connections and illustrate how hot these high resistance connections can get in the real world. Use of the thermal imaging camera would be great on this experiment.
My flat has an 80 amp main fuse on the board. What sort of current draw can it take before it blows and the lekkie board have to come out it?
AC or DC welder ?
To be honest, I expected the 'chocbloc' connector to do well, if a good initial connection was made, it's when incorrectly connected they suffer. Examples like overtightned screws and threads stripped so connection tension is lost etc.
Watching the smoke coming off the wires made me want to hold my breath haha
Very interesting vid Nick.
does the output from the welder not produce DC not AC is this an accurate assessment?
I'm looking to put an LED light outside I have a halogen one at the moment but the Leeds not for led so I need a outside junction box to connect the wire to my new led security light those clips will be ok to use won't they LEVER CONNECTOR
great content and well done.
4mm single core is 37 amps , 2.5 mm is 27 amps table 4D1A For 70 c thermoplastic single core page 401
Or did you use the single core 90 c thermosetting cable table 4E1A ?
40.2k subscribers when I watched this - congratulations. The wago has the least copper in it, so not surprising that it was the first to fail. I wonder if the connection pressure of the wago was also affected by the heat. That looks like an inverter style welder, so as per below, would be interesting to see a true RMS clamp meter reading the current to see how it compares to the readout on the welder.
Really good video thanks
Hi can you tell me if its okay to extend cables in the radial socket with wagos? The other day I opened the socket and there was 2 neutrals with visible copper which means both of them were damaged so I decided to cut them short and put 2 into wago and extend with just one neutral. That specific socket was second last and the last one was just above the one I was working. It bugs me now after time that I should maybe extend with 2 neutrals instead of one.
Is your welder AC or DC output? If DC, then most connectors have a different current carrying capacity to AC, and often a different voltage rating.
I’ll have to check bud
Thank god we still have John Ward. A man who does his research.
It’s dc
@@NBundyElectrical If you want to put a clamp meter on, you'll need one that can measure DC
With my computer and 2 monitors, plugged into an extension, no issues.
Wild part which will most likely trigger you, I plug a portable AC into an extension that is plugged into the extension my computer is plugged into.
However, I have checked during the summer when both are on (and I don't run the AC full speed given my room is small), and no issues with heat.
I probably ought to check what amps all these things use next time summer rolls around...
Your the man bro keep it up...
the tool bags look mint!!
That's very cool and interesting, Thanks.
The problems in installations usually come from bad jobs or connections that have been worked on. The connector block is great if you seat everything correctly once and tighten it down with the appropriate amount of pressure. Even better if you use ferrules. But if you work on the connection or don't use ferrules and only clamp down certain strands while others are either loose or damaged, things can get funny fast. If you take care and do everything correct, you don't have to worry about all the options. Question is which is the most likely to be used in a wrong way?
That's where the Wago shines in my opinion. You can disconnect and reconnect pretty much as often as you want and you won't get a damaged cable, while being able to see through the thing to make sure the connector is well seated.
Interesting demo
Great work but just a note Wago 221 4mm are rated at 32A not 20A , 20 Amp is the rating as per China & abroad, Wago 221 6mm rated at 41A Information direct from Wago. just a question was that welder a AC output or DC,
I just bought some cheap thin cable. And I was looking for this video. I don't know if it's ok to have them used for battery charging
Great work Mr bundy... Great channel. Can we see some kopex hooked up to the welder..... See how it gets on.. 😁👍
@n bundy, any chance you want to do this for red, blue & yellow crimp on connectors??
Presumably these are all performing well above the rated current due to the very favourable conditions here: open air in a cold unit. Presumably the rating has to be for significantly worse conditions (e.g. high ambient temperature, covered in insulation) as well as, of course, some safety factor for good measure.
I'm not surprised that the wago failed first. I was in the trade yonks ago, and, to me those things look horribly flimsy. The best connection - in accessible positions - would almost certainly be a porcelain connector block! 34A for 2.5 seems very high: in my day, 2.5 T&E clipped direct was rated at 27A for a conductor operating temperature of 70C.
3rd video I've watched of yours, I'm viewer 40,000 of this video, which matches your sub total you mentioned :P
Well the connections seems to be best in normal screw connectors!
Sparks fly! I've been watching youtubes on celebrities private jets. Will you be making a video about yours now your a youtube celeb ? It's a great title.
hi, can I use wago connector with jumper wires?
Did the WAGO burned or did the cable broke near the WAGO?
130 Ampere in a domestic house? The usaly the fuse cant take that.
We in Germany have usaly only 32, 50 or 62 A sealed industrial fuses before the electricity meter for domestic houses.
Than the LS current breaker up to B 16A (3 phase 230 Volt)
So you tested why beyond he specifications on the wire and the connectors are was surprised they failed.
Not sure how this is a test of anything.
I have WAGOs in my ceiling lights, most of my electrical requirements in my shed. I start the platform drill powered my basic three core cable and the joints are WAGO and never a smell. When I start up my grinding discs there is no issue with the electrics.
Because the WAGO I use ae rated to 30AMP... an electrical oven is 30AMP... as long as you aren't using WAGO for the mains electric coming into the house then what its the issue?
What house has 100w running though the cables... I really want to know.
Given the more that comes is 30Amp/Hours based off the massive control, which then goes to the consumer unit that in highest Amp is the Oven.
At know point is the average UK house getting close o the "demonstration" of 210volts.
Science with Mr. Bundy
So the old connector block was best. Newbie question , why are wagos more popular ? Speed and strength of connection ?
Would be interesting to see a non fire rated downlight vs fire rated mounted on plaster board
Very interesting, especially from my view as an apprentice!