Just a heads up for anyone doing this - the chain tensioning tool should have been installed before the camshaft sprockets were torqued down on the camshafts. The small amount of slack in the chain between the two sprockets in this video will immediately be taken out once that engine starts up, and the intake/exhaust timing will be slightly out of time again. Same with any slack in the chain between the cam sprockets and the crankshaft.
Hey question for you. I'm concerned I may have overtightened my chain using the tensioner. The directions said to just tighten with your fingers. I think I misunderstood and went a little beyond that. That said the chain is very snug but moves freely and easily when I use a wrench on the crank. Should I be concerned?
@@DuckMcDuckinson NO, .6 NM or 5.3 Inch Pound, and @derekwilliams3091 is correct, the tool goes before tightening the cams otherwise you could have slag between the cams.
Another mistake is that the camshaft holding tool has two bolts that run under the legs that slide between the camshafts. This is to prevent the legs from spreading when loosening or tightening the bolts for the can phasers. Also, the crankshaft bolt should be torqued to spec along with the oil pump first, before working on the camshafts.
You know you’re old when you’re watching these for fun. Amazing company and video. Great production. Thank you for the info. When/if this happens to my 2017 I’m coming back. Mentally preparing haha
I followed this video and the online guide and you’ve literally saved me £4554.79 over the cheapest quote I got from any garage. That includes buying all the timing tools and a service. I can’t thank you enough for making this guide! Peace!
BRILLIANT tutorial. I purchased all the parts and tools and my son and I did the job in 15 hours(+/-). Everything worked out 100%. Just couldn’t use the flywheel locking tool as my vehicle is a manual. Thank you for the video.
This is everyone dream mechanic when taking their car to a shop. Especially a bmw, Wish every mechanic was like this. No half ass work just straight knowledge. Very good video.
I made the chain change in my N20 F10 528i . Thanks FCPEuro for putting out these videos and providing all parts in a single kit. The procedure is very much alike in my F10 without X-Drive as shown on your series 3. I did it in my garage with couple of stands and a HF engine bar to lift the engine to make clearance to remove the oil pan. With 73K miles, the original chain and tensioner were still in good condition, nothing broken, nothing loose, nothing weak. But, the potential for a future (catastrophic) failure was present. I hope this new chain kit does not show any new flaws in the future as miles pile up on it.
@@ImranKhan-ej3fy Holding up perfectly. The engine is 84K miles right now and I already did the first oil change after the TC replacement. As expected, the oil analysis shows an increment of metal particles in the oil compared to the previous oil change at the moment of the TC job. New metal parts equals new metal wear of the parts matching each other. I did the oil change at 7325 miles.
@@pedrogonzalez9943 that’s good to hear! Job well done. I have a ‘13 328i non xdrive (glad it’s rwd) and the only thing I was sceptical of was removing the oil pan. I didnt want to but 3 jacks to lift the transmission like in this video. Did you just the use the engine brace bar to remove oil pan? Mine is currently at 57k miles. Tc is still pretty tight no rattles no weird noises but looking to do it in my driveway with Jack stands no lift.
@@ImranKhan-ej3fy Your is low mileage. I only used the engine support bar on top to hold and move the engine up to make room under the oil pan and the front subframe. I did not want to mess up with the subframe and I had enough space to remove the oil pan. I also had to remove the driver's side engine mount to make room. Remember that my 528 frame is wider than yours. Consider that. If you don't drive it hard, the TC should last you more time. Mine was tight and solid at the time of change. But, I wanted to have peace of mind about it. Make sure your have every part before starting this work. Specially the small plastic plug for the oil pump. Also, have a large breaker bar for the crankshaft bolt. If you can get the 3/4-inch BB, the better. I had to use a piece of tube to extend the length of my 1/2-inch BB to be able to tight it back to the required 270° rotation after the torque point.
I’ve never been more thankful to own 2 N52’s! Unreal! For a small 4 cylinder and rather ordinary car in BMW’s lineup? This is way too much complication in my opinion. Brilliantly done, though. I can’t believe how little coaching or reference that this host / narrator needed. It was all in his head.
Just want to say a big thanks for the two video on timing. I just finish doing my 328i N20 engine at home still can’t believe it. But because of your two video was so detailed I did it thank a lot sir.
Awesomely detailed video! As a 15 year Honda mechanic I have much respect for anyone working on these cars. It would almost be easier to drop a Honda K20/K24 in these and be done with it. The engineering between the German and Japanese designs is so much different. Cam and crank gears are keyed.... that alone would reduce 20% of this job
You are absolutely correct. These overly complex German cars are a maintenance nightmare. And all the guides and tensioners are made of plastic that'll be brittle in a couple of years. Japanese cars are far more maintenance friendly.
@@rogeronslow1498timing chain guides are plastic on every car dingus, could you imagine how loud metal timing chain guides would be?🤦🏼♂️also fcp euros picture of the timing chain tensioner online is definitely not a plastic part…
@@cartere9981 I'm fully aware that all cars use plastic timing chain guides, however, most japanese engines use a different type of plastic that doesn't get brittle and simply break from old age. The guides make from the white plastic such as Audi/VW are terrible in terms of longevity.
Thanks for doing this video, was very helpful while fixing my Wife's 2013 X3. Chain Guide let go at 277000KM. skipped one tooth on Intake cam but cylinder leakage gauge showed ok so ordered parts and tools and went for it. A bit more work with AWD (give yourself 3 days) but very satisfied to have it back on the road. Thanks again..
@@BIGM0NSTER FBO, all forged internals, upgraded fuel system, stock turbo at 28 psi (making custom manifold for a top mount Borg soon & also a custom intake manifold eventually), stage 2 custom e50 tune that I made myself with a little help, stock injectors but new clean ones from Bosch, & I might be missing some other stuff. She's been parked for the winter in my garage so I've been in VR6 mode with my Mk4 Jetta. I may be forgetting some stuff
@@BIGM0NSTER she's been on the dyno about five times already. Going for 600 wheel with my custom fabrication on the exhaust manifold and intake. Gonna do a fat ass top mount Borg Warner eventually. Most likely 35-40+ psi next year
@@kegankelly3073 wow i’m just trying to get it past 300 hp after I get this timing BS out the way🤦🏾 my performance mods are Inner cooler,air intake,charge pipes catalyst downpipe,Diverter valve and stage to tune
Thanks for this very helpful guide. I decided to sell the problem and I revised my decision again looking for solution and after I saw complete 2 part I decided to sell the problem again 😄. I don’t trust our mechanics we have in town to do the same quality job . Thanks again
Just finished this job yesterday. Car has 129500 miles on it, so I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and engine mounts while I was in there. TIP: when changing the water pump, remove the two bolts that hold the power steering rack to the sub-frame, and move the rack forward; that makes it easy to get to the two lower bolts; torque for those bolts is 40 ft lbs (who uses NM anyway?). Oh! Don't forget to clear the adaptations in the DME when your finished. You don't want the power-train control module thinking it has an old timing chain in it. A few last thoughts, in the video the tech doesn't remove the oil pick up tube to install the balance shaft lock. I'd recommend removing it per the BMW service guide and replacing the o-ring (O-ring should be in the kit!). my pick-up tube had bits of the timing chain guide wedged into the holes; a good cleaning was required. Also, the o-rings on the cam shaft sensors should also be in the kit. Mine were very brittle. Lastly, double check all of your electrical connections before you start the car. I had two that I didn't seat properly.
A mechanic shop changed my timing chain kit after failure at 72k miles. Now im getting low oil pressure again…. I can’t believe it. I don’t know what to do, i just paid $3,000 . Its a 2015 328i n26. Could the pump now be failing? Why would a nee timing chain fail again…
I couldn’t have done this job in my 13 N26Xdrive…. In driveway without the help of this video and the kit I purchased from FCP Euro. Thanks a million times over.
Watching this and Part 1 is so zen. But also made me realize I may want to go electric for the next vehicle to avoid having to do this. Have a '14 328xi GT with 100K miles, you know, just in case you're looking to do a comparison with the AWD version in SoCal...
Overall, very good DIY video; excellent to include how to put the transmission into neutral and great coverage of the modified timing gear parts. However .... If you're going to list a torqe spec, why aren't you using a torque wrench? Many times in the video, the host doesn't use a torque wrench, when he does, sometimes he tightens the bolt with a torque wrench and then keeps tightening the fastener; then he can be seen releasing the pressure and then reapplying torque until the wrench clicks again. He over torqued many fasteners. Don't bounce the torque wrench! It would have been helpful to convert Nm to inch or foot lbs. Check your crankshaft seal instructions! You put oil on the PTFE crankshaft seal; those seals are supposed to be installed dry, and they must normalize for 4 hours before starting the engine. If you install it the way you did, it WILL leak. The crankshaft hub should be installed before the crankshaft seal. See links below. Installing the seal first will result in improper sealing. Perhaps FCPEuro should make a video on how to correctly install a PTFE seal with the correct tool. You can do it right the first time, or you can do it again. www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f30-328i-lim_201202/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-31-camshaft/HicAb9tq BMW instructions: www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f30-328i-lim_201202/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-31-camshaft/HipcnQuO www.victorreinz.com/en/service-downloads/practical-information/ptfe-oil-seals-and-their-installation.aspx?region Might I recommend a toque angle meter? It's a lot better than guessing when you've hit 55 degrees. It will also give you the final torque for the fastener. www.zoro.com/proto-torque-angle-meter-38-in-dr-100-ft-lb-j6280ta100/i/G7451491/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvIT5BRCqARIsAAwwD-TfRGjVWBNNToyuksFEuXjoXdsJf3OQqtSIxVLrLpalwc7ftOAFyvAaAoLDEALw_wcB When working on the motor with the spark plug out, you may want to cover the ports to keep debris out of the cylinders. Again, thanks for taking the time to produce this video! Mark
Great videos. Thank you so much for making and posting this content. One recommendation to save someone else some pain....unless i did something wrong to cause my own pain. I think the TDC flywheel pin should be removed after the timing and flywheel are locked and before the crankshaft bolt is loosened. I left mine installed between the engine and flywheel like you did in the video and I couldn't get it out after torquing down the crankshaft bolt. I struggled like you did in the video and then the arm on the tool broke and the pin was stuck between the block and flywheel. It took me many hours to get the broken pin out of the engine block and flywheel. When I got it out, the pin was bent. So I think the pin should be removed before you start loosing the crankshaft bolt and everything else has been locked down. Note: I did have the flywheel lock in place when this happened. Not sure why this happened. Maybe the flywheel can still slightly move until it gets tension from the lock and maybe the TDC pin was already under tension before the flywheel lock engaged.
Homeboy looks like he should be a Goldman Sachs investment banker. Lol. That's a compliment BTW. This is one of the best training vids I've ever seen. My wife has a 2016 x3 so it has the newer chain, hopefully it will go the distance. I wish this chain was as good as my 2005 530 m54 engine. I'm at 380,000 miles and has original chain. The car has been fantastic. Again great training vid.
Huge HUGE help Vincent!! although, the xdrive was pretty different when it came to the diff and oil pan. Nonetheless, your detailed description was crucial! Couldn’t have done it with out you guys!!!
Great job! Amazing video. I have this engine on a ‘14 X1 sDrive with only 24K miles. Will make sure to sell car before it gets to 60K. I have no intention of doing this big job on it.
HAHA thanks? I think.... Tony S don't fear the inevitable just embrace for impact ;) Don't forget there is an extended warranty on this so you may be covered if it pops up in time (no pun intended)
FCP Euro yes, warranty is extended to 7 years / 70,000 miles. I’m keeping a close ear on that engine for any whining sound, and changing oil every 5K miles and adding MOA to the oil. 👍
@@fcpeuro even if I'm under 70k miles mark, I can't go to BMW and get it replaced for free as a preventive measure? Do I have to wait until it breaks down for the warranty to apply?
Man after watching part 2 I really pray my n55 doesn't need a timing chain replacement anytime soon (approaching 200k miles). The procedure seems pretty similar for the n55. No one seems to have any videos on it yet. I just recently did the oil pan gasket and it was a PITA.
On the cam there’s two barcode , you should be able to see them pointing upwards , if you can’t see them and your tool fits it means your timing is 180deg off
Very nicely made video - Thank You for all of this great info. One thing I am confused about... You put oil on the front main seal. Was that a Teflon seal? The ones I've seen on truck engines go in dry on a clean and dry crankshaft.
So, I had just finished this same job on my 2012 528i N20 . The engine started great, sounds very good and idle pretty smooth. However, I am getting the following codes and I’d appreciate all the help! 131401 VANOS, exhaust, cold start: not controllable. 130304 VANOS, exhaust control fault, camshaft jammed. 131501 VANOS, intake, cold start: not controllable. 120408 Charging pressure control, deactivation: Pressure build-up blocked. They are all intermittent
@@goroundfun6034 yes and yes. I already figured out though. New vanos units and found out I had two oring on one of the camshaft sensors lol stupid! All good now! Thanks
A mechanic shop changed my timing chain kit after failure at 72k miles. Now im getting low oil pressure again…. I can’t believe it. I don’t know what to do, i just paid $3,000 . Its a 2015 328i n26. Could the pump now be failing? Why would a nee timing chain fail again…
Excellent video and very detailed. But I forgot to install the plastic plug from the balancer shaft alignment hole. Now I'm worried if its really needed.
I must know, how many of these E20 BMW TCR's have you done? Your knowledge is exceptional. I would have liked to her the engine running with the cover on so I could have an idea what a new timming chain replacement sounded like with the cover.
Hey there, for starters great videos! I am part of the way through on my install and I can't help but worry about my front crank seal. I see you guys massaged it in with a light mallet so I did too. Now for some reason I cannot seem to get this thing perfectly flush. Any recommendations? Also did yours have any trouble leaking without using any sort of sealant on the inside? Thanks!!
Thank you for these great videos. With some blood, sweat and tears, I was able to replace my timing chain and guide. My only concern is the chain tightness. I'm worried I may have over tightened. I'm able to use a wrench on the crank and it moves freely, but it is very snug. I may have overtightened using the chain tensioner. The directions said to tighten down by hand and that should be enough. I may have tightened a little past that. Should I be concerned? Thanks
This video has saved me A LOT of money. I wanted to ask you guys something. I was just able to rotate the crankshaft bolt 180 degrees. I can’t rotate it past that (believe me i tried). Is it ok if i leave it at that?
Excellent Video: I have a question: My F10 is with an auto company (only repairs german cars). They just replaced the timing chain, and the check engine light is still on. Now, they are saying the variable timing valve sprockets failed and need replacement. They are asking an additional ton of money. Any advice will be helpful. Thanks.
18:40 I understand u have the timing lock pin and flywheel holding tool installed. My question is would the lock pin take the full torque and get bent before the holding tool (which has play) has its effect? If the lock pin is bent, it will be fun to remove and timing will be off. I would suggest do the 100Nm first, then remove the lock pin and two cam holding forks then do the 270 degree. Any comment welcome.
The lock pin is supposed to be removed if you apply torque to the main bolt (per BMW TIS). Also, the Crankshaft bolt is supposed to be tightened BEFORE the cams. In the video they did it the other way around.
It makes sense to replace head valve and oil pan gaskets when replacing timing chain because ur gonna have to take those off anyway. Also, by the time timing chain fails it is about time to replace those gaskets. It makes no sense to replace oil pan gasket separately which costs about $2k and I am guessing head cover valve gasket probably around $1k. That is about $3k addition to timing chain costs.
The official BMW technical manual says to install camshaft adjuster after the central bolt is installed and tightened - why did you install adjusters before installing the central bolt? Also it says to remove that special tool (pin) which holds the crankshaft before loosening crankshaft central bolt and you didn't do that
Thanks !very helpful video ! However I can still hear whining noise after you fixed it. My 328 recently has whining noise when oil temp below 70C and goes away when fully warm up. Please give me some advise. My car is at 105000KM.
@@bmwlane8834 I've been around hundreds of DI engines, and only the BMW N20 has a metallic chain slap noise vs. a mechanical tick of a direct injector.
Please replace vacuum pump seal on valve cover and valvetronic seal with seals on front cam shaft sensors when removing and installing valve cover.Check vacuum feed line for vacuum pump and make sure it is not filled with oil.If so vacuum pump needs to be replaced.Clean screen on oil pump pick-up and make sure no plastic is stuck in there.This will cause other problems with oil pressure.Do not lubricate front crankshaft bolt when replacing and installing before starting vehicle.Torque angle setting is essential with a torque angle torque wrench.Clear adaptation values after performing this repair.Also perform an oil bleed procedure.Just an observer who does this repair frequently,otherwise good informative video.Recommend using 0-w20 engine oil instead of the 30 w oil recommended.Replace oil filter as well.
Hello. thanks for the beautiful video. I do have BMW 2011 535i. the engine idling while it stops in a stop sign or in normal rpm. my car has 87000 miles. no check engine light on, but it's rattling sometimes. is it time to change the timing belt? Vanos solenoid? Thanks for help.
Be sure to checkout part 1 where Nate goes over the tools ruben car. Here is the list though (minus the specialty tools discussed in previous vid) N20 N26 Timing Chain Replacement DIY Tools: Breaker bar Torque wrench Pick Flathead screwdriver Mirror Magnet Flashlight Oil filter wrench 10,13,14, 17 wrenches E8 wrench, T30, t40, t45 8mm 5mm hex sockets 27, 24, 22, 16, 10, 8 mm sockets E20, E12, E10, E8, E7, E6 sockets
Hey FCP, A mechanic shop changed my timing chain kit after failure at 72k miles. Now im getting low oil pressure again 2 months after repair…. I can’t believe it. I don’t know what to do, i just paid a lot to get it fixed . Its a 2015 328i n26. Could the pump now be failing?
My question is. Did it start? I was expecting to see you turn over the engine at least at the end of the video. Thus adding more confidence to the guide.
A mechanic shop changed my timing chain kit after failure at 72k miles. Now im getting low oil pressure again…. I can’t believe it. I don’t know what to do, i just paid $3,000 . Its a 2015 328i n26. Could the pump now be failing? Why would a nee timing chain fail again…
Hi I like what I see you doing and I have the same problem with my 2013 x3 engine making noise and it looks like the timing change is losing or something else that I don’t know about. And would you please explain to me why my 2013 bmw engine is being making noise because I’m afraid it will cause me problems soon or later, and please if you have received my message and I really need help. Thank you and I’m looking forward to hearing from you soon.
I have a 2011 F10 535i with an N55 engine. Do you have a video or do you know of a good video that shows how to change the timing chain for that engine? I'm having a hard time locating the place to put the pin on the transmission flex plate to put the engine in TDC.
I just had a shop replace the timing chain and drove it for about a week and engine light came on and would not start. Another shop ran codes and said it was missing on all cylinders so I took it back to the original shop and now they are saying it is due to vacuum pump failure and turbo failure. They are telling me this has nothing to do with their replacement of the timing chain. Do you have any thoughts?
curious about the camshaft sprocket bolt/VANOS solenoid thingy - with the "torque plus turn" spec, isn't that a fastener that should be replaced each time?
Hello there I just changed timing chain on 2013 BMW 328i Xdrive N26 you video was very helpful,how ever in my case Im getting some errors and check engine on!! 131501 VANOS,inlet, cold start: not controlable .... 120408 Status: History- boost pressure control: Shut-down as a consecutive reaction 131908 VANOS,inlet: cold Start, Position not reached .... Any help greatly appreciated !!!- Thank You
Update to below original comment. I just put my socket and rachet on the intake cam bolt and just ever so slight went in reverse. Chain didn't move at all and now the timing tool pin goes into the hole freely with no resistance. I wonder if this mean these bolts can be overtorqued. ‐--‐---------‐ I'm in the middle of doing this job with your parts and tools. Questions about the green timing chain tool. The exhaust pin goes into hole smoothly but the intake pin catches and takes some force to get into the hole. I can fix this by loosing the the intake timing bolt but then when I torque it back down, the same thing happens again. Is this OK or does this mean the timing is slightly off? If slightly off, how do I get it back to normal? Currently everything for the timing chain is locked down with your tools to include the flywheel. I've already installed the new oil pump chain and got all of that torqued and timed with cta tool but I have since removed those tools. Any idea what the problem is here and how I get the pin to go into the timing hole smoothly again and stay in that position when tightening it down?
So the new chain kit guides assembly is also made of a plastic type material. That seems to be the weak point in the BMW design. What is the difference b/w the old plastic timing chain guides vs the new timing chain guides? Why didn't BMW redesign the unit in metal or at least re-enforce the unit with metal at the weak points ? Is the new chain a better design ,more robust than the old chain, as you mentioned the timing chain stretched.
Hi Don, the parts are new replacements; it would most likely cost BMW too much to make those out of stronger materials, which is usually why they are mainly plastic. The same goes for the chain; it is a standard replacement. The best thing you can do to help this long term is to maintain healthy oil change/service intervals.
there is a strange intermittent vibration that can also be felt on the steering wheel... this is only when the car is at rest when the gas is added the vibration goes away... I have been struggling with this problem for 2 years and I don't know what it is... the vibration to be exact it's like a vibration from a phone that can be felt on the steering wheel... please advise???
Great video very helpful I appreciate the information doing my first tomorrow. I'm just curious that front main seal is a ptfe seal the instructions say to leave them dry. Do you suggest using lube ? Also you call them cam adjusters are they not just reloctor wheels? I only ask cause I want to do this job well but I feel like I'm nagging not my intention
Hello guys from FCP euro, absolutely great online shop and very helpful videos. I have a question regarding to my BMW X5 F15 2016 3.5i xDrive, my mileage is 70000mi. What is the service interval for timing chain set replacing for N55? When should I consider changing my timing chain set? Thank you!
Nice video , just one question, on about 15:00 you're going to tight the cam sprockets to the camshaf. However, is this not giving slack to the chain? Don't you have to put the basic tension on the chain before tighting these sprockets?
Hi HSM Autoservice, you actually don't have to put tension on the chain at this point, it isn't until you tighten the crank bolt that it is necessary to have the chain under tension. Since the cam shaft and sprocket are both locked in position at this point, the chain can spin freely on the crank shaft sprocket. Once you go to tighten that crank shaft sprocket you need to make sure the chain is pre-tensioned though. Thanks for watching the video!
@@fcpeuro thank you sir, I thought it to matter due to little slack of the chain between the sprockets while tightening (especially the first one you did) and thus influencing timing between camshaf sprockets (?) even thoug very slightly
Do the cam sprockets have any timing marks to follow.or it doesn't matter which direction they are on as long as adjuster flanges are timed with tools and cams are locked with tools?????
@@fcpeuro thanks. Can you use the chain breaker available at FCP to open chain and replace that way from top without dropping oil pan? Like the N26 engine.
I was doing some research through the repair manual and it mentions that the high pressure feed pipe to the fuel rail must be replaced and can’t be reused. This was not mentioned in the video but has anyone here reused the same fuel line and saw no leaks?
I just replaced my timing chain on my 2014 bmw 328i xdrive n26 engine. Everything went well, and I drove the car a little while seemed to run great no issues then when I was coming to a stop the front left of my car made a screech sound and it turned off and now wont start any ideas? Would help alot.
A mechanic shop changed my timing chain kit after failure at 72k miles. Now im getting low oil pressure again…. I can’t believe it. I don’t know what to do, i just paid $3,000 . Its a 2015 328i n26. Could the pump now be failing? Why would a nee timing chain fail again…
Guys I have a f30 320d 2013...has 105k miles and should I change it? It sounds and seems goof no issues and BMW dealer service said all is good so...hope someone can give some advice😊
Shop the parts used in this video here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-n20-n26-timing-chain-kit-11318648732kt?
I bought this kit and just did mine this week the car will idle up to 1500 and then will stall any idea what it could be???
Can you give 50% off on this job ? Please ? 😞
Just a heads up for anyone doing this - the chain tensioning tool should have been installed before the camshaft sprockets were torqued down on the camshafts. The small amount of slack in the chain between the two sprockets in this video will immediately be taken out once that engine starts up, and the intake/exhaust timing will be slightly out of time again. Same with any slack in the chain between the cam sprockets and the crankshaft.
Hey question for you. I'm concerned I may have overtightened my chain using the tensioner. The directions said to just tighten with your fingers. I think I misunderstood and went a little beyond that. That said the chain is very snug but moves freely and easily when I use a wrench on the crank. Should I be concerned?
@@DuckMcDuckinson NO, .6 NM or 5.3 Inch Pound, and @derekwilliams3091 is correct, the tool goes before tightening the cams otherwise you could have slag between the cams.
THIS THIS, I was looking for this comment, you never tension cams and shaft until the chain is tensioned and tight
Another mistake is that the camshaft holding tool has two bolts that run under the legs that slide between the camshafts. This is to prevent the legs from spreading when loosening or tightening the bolts for the can phasers.
Also, the crankshaft bolt should be torqued to spec along with the oil pump first, before working on the camshafts.
The best video of all the BMW timing chain replacement I have seen. Both part 1 & 2, video quality is top class. Much appreciated
Glad we hit the mark Sipho! Happy to help, and appreciate you watching.
Also, how long did this repair take?
2 weeks
You know you’re old when you’re watching these for fun. Amazing company and video. Great production. Thank you for the info. When/if this happens to my 2017 I’m coming back. Mentally preparing haha
😂😂😂🙏
I followed this video and the online guide and you’ve literally saved me £4554.79 over the cheapest quote I got from any garage. That includes buying all the timing tools and a service. I can’t thank you enough for making this guide! Peace!
BRILLIANT tutorial. I purchased all the parts and tools and my son and I did the job in 15 hours(+/-). Everything worked out 100%. Just couldn’t use the flywheel locking tool as my vehicle is a manual. Thank you for the video.
Hey,
What did you youse insted of it?
@@wiktoretraktore8564I think you just use parking brake and throw it in first to lock the engine up.
This is everyone dream mechanic when taking their car to a shop. Especially a bmw, Wish every mechanic was like this. No half ass work just straight knowledge. Very good video.
Thank you for watching, Eduardo!
I made the chain change in my N20 F10 528i . Thanks FCPEuro for putting out these videos and providing all parts in a single kit. The procedure is very much alike in my F10 without X-Drive as shown on your series 3. I did it in my garage with couple of stands and a HF engine bar to lift the engine to make clearance to remove the oil pan. With 73K miles, the original chain and tensioner were still in good condition, nothing broken, nothing loose, nothing weak. But, the potential for a future (catastrophic) failure was present. I hope this new chain kit does not show any new flaws in the future as miles pile up on it.
How is it holding up? Any issues
@@ImranKhan-ej3fy Holding up perfectly. The engine is 84K miles right now and I already did the first oil change after the TC replacement. As expected, the oil analysis shows an increment of metal particles in the oil compared to the previous oil change at the moment of the TC job. New metal parts equals new metal wear of the parts matching each other. I did the oil change at 7325 miles.
@@pedrogonzalez9943 that’s good to hear! Job well done. I have a ‘13 328i non xdrive (glad it’s rwd) and the only thing I was sceptical of was removing the oil pan. I didnt want to but 3 jacks to lift the transmission like in this video. Did you just the use the engine brace bar to remove oil pan? Mine is currently at 57k miles. Tc is still pretty tight no rattles no weird noises but looking to do it in my driveway with Jack stands no lift.
@@ImranKhan-ej3fy Your is low mileage. I only used the engine support bar on top to hold and move the engine up to make room under the oil pan and the front subframe. I did not want to mess up with the subframe and I had enough space to remove the oil pan. I also had to remove the driver's side engine mount to make room. Remember that my 528 frame is wider than yours. Consider that. If you don't drive it hard, the TC should last you more time. Mine was tight and solid at the time of change. But, I wanted to have peace of mind about it. Make sure your have every part before starting this work. Specially the small plastic plug for the oil pump. Also, have a large breaker bar for the crankshaft bolt. If you can get the 3/4-inch BB, the better. I had to use a piece of tube to extend the length of my 1/2-inch BB to be able to tight it back to the required 270° rotation after the torque point.
2.5 hours to record a grueling timing chain replacement. Much respect…Nate is a dog… hands down!!!💪🏿
I’ve never been more thankful to own 2 N52’s! Unreal! For a small 4 cylinder and rather ordinary car in BMW’s lineup? This is way too much complication in my opinion. Brilliantly done, though. I can’t believe how little coaching or reference that this host / narrator needed. It was all in his head.
Gonna get a n52 for this reason lol. Not a lot of people know this but the 2011 f10 actually has a n52
Just want to say a big thanks for the two video on timing. I just finish doing my 328i N20 engine at home still can’t believe it. But because of your two video was so detailed I did it thank a lot sir.
Do you need any programming after replace it
Awesomely detailed video! As a 15 year Honda mechanic I have much respect for anyone working on these cars. It would almost be easier to drop a Honda K20/K24 in these and be done with it. The engineering between the German and Japanese designs is so much different. Cam and crank gears are keyed.... that alone would reduce 20% of this job
You are absolutely correct. These overly complex German cars are a maintenance nightmare. And all the guides and tensioners are made of plastic that'll be brittle in a couple of years. Japanese cars are far more maintenance friendly.
@@rogeronslow1498timing chain guides are plastic on every car dingus, could you imagine how loud metal timing chain guides would be?🤦🏼♂️also fcp euros picture of the timing chain tensioner online is definitely not a plastic part…
@@cartere9981 I'm fully aware that all cars use plastic timing chain guides, however, most japanese engines use a different type of plastic that doesn't get brittle and simply break from old age. The guides make from the white plastic such as Audi/VW are terrible in terms of longevity.
Thanks for doing this video, was very helpful while fixing my Wife's 2013 X3. Chain Guide let go at 277000KM. skipped one tooth on Intake cam but cylinder leakage gauge showed ok so ordered parts and tools and went for it. A bit more work with AWD (give yourself 3 days) but very satisfied to have it back on the road. Thanks again..
Glad you found it helpful! Very lucky it only skipped one tooth!
WOW! 277000 kms seems like a lot with this engine, I am so worried with only 131000 kms on mine so I should keep driving.
You see my profile pic?
She’s still alive, & now making 400 whp, thanks to you guys!
Thank you, FCP Euro! 💯
400 what are your performance mods?
@@BIGM0NSTER FBO, all forged internals, upgraded fuel system, stock turbo at 28 psi (making custom manifold for a top mount Borg soon & also a custom intake manifold eventually), stage 2 custom e50 tune that I made myself with a little help, stock injectors but new clean ones from Bosch, & I might be missing some other stuff. She's been parked for the winter in my garage so I've been in VR6 mode with my Mk4 Jetta. I may be forgetting some stuff
@@BIGM0NSTER she's been on the dyno about five times already. Going for 600 wheel with my custom fabrication on the exhaust manifold and intake. Gonna do a fat ass top mount Borg Warner eventually. Most likely 35-40+ psi next year
@@kegankelly3073 wow i’m just trying to get it past 300 hp after I get this timing BS out the way🤦🏾 my performance mods are Inner cooler,air intake,charge pipes catalyst downpipe,Diverter valve and stage to tune
@@kegankelly3073 do you have a Instagram?
Thanks for this very helpful guide. I decided to sell the problem and I revised my decision again looking for solution and after I saw complete 2 part I decided to sell the problem again 😄. I don’t trust our mechanics we have in town to do the same quality job .
Thanks again
watched your videos, bought your parts, fixed my car in a week!
Fantastic!! Great work.
Just finished this job yesterday. Car has 129500 miles on it, so I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and engine mounts while I was in there. TIP: when changing the water pump, remove the two bolts that hold the power steering rack to the sub-frame, and move the rack forward; that makes it easy to get to the two lower bolts; torque for those bolts is 40 ft lbs (who uses NM anyway?). Oh! Don't forget to clear the adaptations in the DME when your finished. You don't want the power-train control module thinking it has an old timing chain in it.
A few last thoughts, in the video the tech doesn't remove the oil pick up tube to install the balance shaft lock. I'd recommend removing it per the BMW service guide and replacing the o-ring (O-ring should be in the kit!). my pick-up tube had bits of the timing chain guide wedged into the holes; a good cleaning was required. Also, the o-rings on the cam shaft sensors should also be in the kit. Mine were very brittle. Lastly, double check all of your electrical connections before you start the car. I had two that I didn't seat properly.
Thanks for the tips!!
(who uses NM anyway?) seriously????
👏👏👏 I got a 2014 BMW 320i xdrive with 65k on it and that is my next DIY job to keep it running till 150k or more... Thank you to FCPeuro and Vincent.
A mechanic shop changed my timing chain kit after failure at 72k miles. Now im getting low oil pressure again…. I can’t believe it. I don’t know what to do, i just paid $3,000 . Its a 2015 328i n26. Could the pump now be failing? Why would a nee timing chain fail again…
I couldn’t have done this job in my 13 N26Xdrive…. In driveway without the help of this video and the kit I purchased from FCP Euro. Thanks a million times over.
How did you jack the transmission to remove oil pan? Since you were in driveway, planning to do that
Watching this and Part 1 is so zen. But also made me realize I may want to go electric for the next vehicle to avoid having to do this.
Have a '14 328xi GT with 100K miles, you know, just in case you're looking to do a comparison with the AWD version in SoCal...
Oh instead you’ll just have to replace a 20k battery 😂
Overall, very good DIY video; excellent to include how to put the transmission into neutral and great coverage of the modified timing gear parts. However ....
If you're going to list a torqe spec, why aren't you using a torque wrench? Many times in the video, the host doesn't use a torque wrench, when he does, sometimes he tightens the bolt with a torque wrench and then keeps tightening the fastener; then he can be seen releasing the pressure and then reapplying torque until the wrench clicks again. He over torqued many fasteners. Don't bounce the torque wrench! It would have been helpful to convert Nm to inch or foot lbs.
Check your crankshaft seal instructions! You put oil on the PTFE crankshaft seal; those seals are supposed to be installed dry, and they must normalize for 4 hours before starting the engine. If you install it the way you did, it WILL leak. The crankshaft hub should be installed before the crankshaft seal. See links below. Installing the seal first will result in improper sealing. Perhaps FCPEuro should make a video on how to correctly install a PTFE seal with the correct tool. You can do it right the first time, or you can do it again.
www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f30-328i-lim_201202/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-31-camshaft/HicAb9tq
BMW instructions: www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f30-328i-lim_201202/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-31-camshaft/HipcnQuO
www.victorreinz.com/en/service-downloads/practical-information/ptfe-oil-seals-and-their-installation.aspx?region
Might I recommend a toque angle meter? It's a lot better than guessing when you've hit 55 degrees. It will also give you the final torque for the fastener.
www.zoro.com/proto-torque-angle-meter-38-in-dr-100-ft-lb-j6280ta100/i/G7451491/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvIT5BRCqARIsAAwwD-TfRGjVWBNNToyuksFEuXjoXdsJf3OQqtSIxVLrLpalwc7ftOAFyvAaAoLDEALw_wcB
When working on the motor with the spark plug out, you may want to cover the ports to keep debris out of the cylinders.
Again, thanks for taking the time to produce this video!
Mark
Awesome feedback, Mark! Thanks.
Newtis appears to be shut down by bmw lawyers
Great videos. Thank you so much for making and posting this content. One recommendation to save someone else some pain....unless i did something wrong to cause my own pain. I think the TDC flywheel pin should be removed after the timing and flywheel are locked and before the crankshaft bolt is loosened. I left mine installed between the engine and flywheel like you did in the video and I couldn't get it out after torquing down the crankshaft bolt. I struggled like you did in the video and then the arm on the tool broke and the pin was stuck between the block and flywheel. It took me many hours to get the broken pin out of the engine block and flywheel. When I got it out, the pin was bent. So I think the pin should be removed before you start loosing the crankshaft bolt and everything else has been locked down.
Note: I did have the flywheel lock in place when this happened. Not sure why this happened. Maybe the flywheel can still slightly move until it gets tension from the lock and maybe the TDC pin was already under tension before the flywheel lock engaged.
Finally a fully detailed video of this job, thank you
Homeboy looks like he should be a Goldman Sachs investment banker. Lol. That's a compliment BTW. This is one of the best training vids I've ever seen. My wife has a 2016 x3 so it has the newer chain, hopefully it will go the distance. I wish this chain was as good as my 2005 530 m54 engine. I'm at 380,000 miles and has original chain. The car has been fantastic. Again great training vid.
Can't say we've heard that one before 😂. Glad you liked the video, BMWLane!
Huge HUGE help Vincent!! although, the xdrive was pretty different when it came to the diff and oil pan. Nonetheless, your detailed description was crucial! Couldn’t have done it with out you guys!!!
My understanding is the x models require both front drive shafts and differential be removed which require the engine to be lifted. Omg.
Great job! Amazing video. I have this engine on a ‘14 X1 sDrive with only 24K miles. Will make sure to sell car before it gets to 60K. I have no intention of doing this big job on it.
HAHA thanks? I think.... Tony S don't fear the inevitable just embrace for impact ;) Don't forget there is an extended warranty on this so you may be covered if it pops up in time (no pun intended)
FCP Euro yes, warranty is extended to 7 years / 70,000 miles. I’m keeping a close ear on that engine for any whining sound, and changing oil every 5K miles and adding MOA to the oil. 👍
@@tonys9413 keeping up on the maintenance is key! Best of luck with it
@@fcpeuro even if I'm under 70k miles mark, I can't go to BMW and get it replaced for free as a preventive measure? Do I have to wait until it breaks down for the warranty to apply?
Man after watching part 2 I really pray my n55 doesn't need a timing chain replacement anytime soon (approaching 200k miles). The procedure seems pretty similar for the n55. No one seems to have any videos on it yet. I just recently did the oil pan gasket and it was a PITA.
Dream job you made it to the big leagues
Nate sure did! 😂
Excellent video! You’re very calm, and explain things easily. Also, your voice instills confidence. Lol sounds funny, but true. Thank you
how do you know if your intake and exhaust cams are in line if they were possibly rotated 180 degrees? and still lined up with the TDC tool?
On the cam there’s two barcode , you should be able to see them pointing upwards , if you can’t see them and your tool fits it means your timing is 180deg off
Very nicely made video - Thank You for all of this great info. One thing I am confused about... You put oil on the front main seal. Was that a Teflon seal? The ones I've seen on truck engines go in dry on a clean and dry crankshaft.
Every time he said “gingerly” I got a chill
😂
Definitely the BEST video/tutorial for this job. Many thanks from Australia fella's!!
We appreciate that Glenn!
So, I had just finished this same job on my 2012 528i N20 . The engine started great, sounds very good and idle pretty smooth. However, I am getting the following codes and I’d appreciate all the help!
131401 VANOS, exhaust, cold start: not controllable.
130304 VANOS, exhaust control fault, camshaft jammed.
131501 VANOS, intake, cold start: not controllable.
120408 Charging pressure control,
deactivation: Pressure build-up
blocked.
They are all intermittent
Did you turn the engine and double checked the timing?
Did you tighten the vanos before using the tensioner tool?
@@goroundfun6034 yes and yes. I already figured out though. New vanos units and found out I had two oring on one of the camshaft sensors lol stupid! All good now! Thanks
A mechanic shop changed my timing chain kit after failure at 72k miles. Now im getting low oil pressure again…. I can’t believe it. I don’t know what to do, i just paid $3,000 . Its a 2015 328i n26. Could the pump now be failing? Why would a nee timing chain fail again…
Excellent video and very detailed. But I forgot to install the plastic plug from the balancer shaft alignment hole. Now I'm worried if its really needed.
How did it go? I forgot to leave mine in when I cranked down the central bolt. I had the pin in when torquing the t60 for the balancer.
GOOD JOB young man!! makes note to oneself.."never buy a 4 cylinder beamer!!"
Thanks Peter! Its not tooooo toooooo bad 😒
Each time you do a job it goes faster. There should be shops that just do timing chain guide replacements and nothing else.
I must know, how many of these E20 BMW TCR's have you done? Your knowledge is exceptional.
I would have liked to her the engine running with the cover on so I could have an idea what a new timming chain replacement sounded like with the cover.
Hey there, for starters great videos! I am part of the way through on my install and I can't help but worry about my front crank seal. I see you guys massaged it in with a light mallet so I did too. Now for some reason I cannot seem to get this thing perfectly flush. Any recommendations? Also did yours have any trouble leaking without using any sort of sealant on the inside? Thanks!!
My 428i with 180k still running great with only oil pump gasket and manifold gasket replaced on the engine.
😎👍
Thank you for these great videos. With some blood, sweat and tears, I was able to replace my timing chain and guide. My only concern is the chain tightness. I'm worried I may have over tightened. I'm able to use a wrench on the crank and it moves freely, but it is very snug. I may have overtightened using the chain tensioner. The directions said to tighten down by hand and that should be enough. I may have tightened a little past that. Should I be concerned? Thanks
the chain tensioner should be tightened to 80NM.
This video has saved me A LOT of money. I wanted to ask you guys something. I was just able to rotate the crankshaft bolt 180 degrees. I can’t rotate it past that (believe me i tried). Is it ok if i leave it at that?
Excellent Video: I have a question: My F10 is with an auto company (only repairs german cars). They just replaced the timing chain, and the check engine light is still on. Now, they are saying the variable timing valve sprockets failed and need replacement. They are asking an additional ton of money. Any advice will be helpful. Thanks.
18:40 I understand u have the timing lock pin and flywheel holding tool installed. My question is would the lock pin take the full torque and get bent before the holding tool (which has play) has its effect? If the lock pin is bent, it will be fun to remove and timing will be off. I would suggest do the 100Nm first, then remove the lock pin and two cam holding forks then do the 270 degree. Any comment welcome.
The lock pin is supposed to be removed if you apply torque to the main bolt (per BMW TIS). Also, the Crankshaft bolt is supposed to be tightened BEFORE the cams. In the video they did it the other way around.
It makes sense to replace head valve and oil pan gaskets when replacing timing chain because ur gonna have to take those off anyway. Also, by the time timing chain fails it is about time to replace those gaskets. It makes no sense to replace oil pan gasket separately which costs about $2k and I am guessing head cover valve gasket probably around $1k. That is about $3k addition to timing chain costs.
The official BMW technical manual says to install camshaft adjuster after the central bolt is installed and tightened - why did you install adjusters before installing the central bolt?
Also it says to remove that special tool (pin) which holds the crankshaft before loosening crankshaft central bolt and you didn't do that
Hi, why are you tightening the vanos wheels without having the tensioner screw , screwed on? thnx
Thanks !very helpful video ! However I can still hear whining noise after you fixed it. My 328 recently has whining noise when oil temp below 70C and goes away when fully warm up. Please give me some advise. My car is at 105000KM.
Thank you that is well detail both part 1 & 2 video
Thank you Simon!
Aren't you supposed to install pre tension tool to remove slack then tighten cams?
Yes 👍
Good to see an engine with a new chain still sounds like ass on startup.
hahaha
I guess you haven't been around modern DI engines. They are all loud.
@@bmwlane8834 I've been around hundreds of DI engines, and only the BMW N20 has a metallic chain slap noise vs. a mechanical tick of a direct injector.
Please replace vacuum pump seal on valve cover and valvetronic seal with seals on front cam shaft sensors when removing and installing valve cover.Check vacuum feed line for vacuum pump and make sure it is not filled with oil.If so vacuum pump needs to be replaced.Clean screen on oil pump pick-up and make sure no plastic is stuck in there.This will cause other problems with oil pressure.Do not lubricate front crankshaft bolt when replacing and installing before starting vehicle.Torque angle setting is essential with a torque angle torque wrench.Clear adaptation values after performing this repair.Also perform an oil bleed procedure.Just an observer who does this repair frequently,otherwise good informative video.Recommend using 0-w20 engine oil instead of the 30 w oil recommended.Replace oil filter as well.
Can you share the oil bleed procedure?
the book says to tension the chain first before tightening the cams.
Very professional job !!! ❤
Hello.
thanks for the beautiful video. I do have BMW 2011 535i. the engine idling while it stops in a stop sign or in normal rpm. my car has 87000 miles. no check engine light on, but it's rattling sometimes. is it time to change the timing belt? Vanos solenoid? Thanks for help.
Nice DIY and very detailed. Could you put together a list of tools used for this DIY plz
Be sure to checkout part 1 where Nate goes over the tools ruben car. Here is the list though (minus the specialty tools discussed in previous vid) N20 N26 Timing Chain Replacement DIY Tools:
Breaker bar
Torque wrench
Pick
Flathead screwdriver
Mirror
Magnet
Flashlight
Oil filter wrench
10,13,14, 17 wrenches
E8 wrench,
T30, t40, t45
8mm 5mm hex sockets
27, 24, 22, 16, 10, 8 mm sockets
E20, E12, E10, E8, E7, E6 sockets
My mechanic changed the timing chain for a bmw x3 2013 like you did but now it's cranking and not starting what do I do please?
Did you find the problem?
Lovely video!! How long did it take to complete the job, start to finish?
you are doing a good job man 👍
Excelente explicación del cambio del la distribución del BMW, Gracias por compartirlo.
Omg, great video, I’ve got a 12 Z4 w 100k km and want to do this. Thanks so much
Why were the came sprockets tightened before installing the tensioner? Seems sketchy.
Very interresting videos (part 1 and part 2). Congratulations
Hey FCP, A mechanic shop changed my timing chain kit after failure at 72k miles. Now im getting low oil pressure again 2 months after repair…. I can’t believe it. I don’t know what to do, i just paid a lot to get it fixed . Its a 2015 328i n26. Could the pump now be failing?
The N20 engine sound like a Diesel engine. Normal?
can you guys do same video for the Audi S4 B8-8.5 please
My question is. Did it start? I was expecting to see you turn over the engine at least at the end of the video. Thus adding more confidence to the guide.
Nate drives it to work every day!
About to do this job on a 2013 X1 xDrive, thanks for the detailed instructions!! Wish me luck!!
How did it go?
How did it go? I am doing the same car and the oil pan / lock pin part is different and am stuck.
Did I miss the part where you added the coolant??
Do you need any programming after replace it?
A mechanic shop changed my timing chain kit after failure at 72k miles. Now im getting low oil pressure again…. I can’t believe it. I don’t know what to do, i just paid $3,000 . Its a 2015 328i n26. Could the pump now be failing? Why would a nee timing chain fail again…
Well done. The best video thus far
Thanks! Hopefully you won't have to use it to service your N20/26 timing chain anytime soon 😉
Thank you so much follow every step and did my own thank you for taking the time to show us all
Great video,I'm getting ready to do mines..
Hi I like what I see you doing and I have the same problem with my 2013 x3 engine making noise and it looks like the timing change is losing or something else that I don’t know about. And would you please explain to me why my 2013 bmw engine is being making noise because I’m afraid it will cause me problems soon or later, and please if you have received my message and I really need help. Thank you and I’m looking forward to hearing from you soon.
I have a 2011 F10 535i with an N55 engine. Do you have a video or do you know of a good video that shows how to change the timing chain for that engine? I'm having a hard time locating the place to put the pin on the transmission flex plate to put the engine in TDC.
I just had a shop replace the timing chain and drove it for about a week and engine light came on and would not start. Another shop ran codes and said it was missing on all cylinders so I took it back to the original shop and now they are saying it is due to vacuum pump failure and turbo failure. They are telling me this has nothing to do with their replacement of the timing chain. Do you have any thoughts?
curious about the camshaft sprocket bolt/VANOS solenoid thingy - with the "torque plus turn" spec, isn't that a fastener that should be replaced each time?
You guys should open a shop here in europe! I would be a lifetime customer!!!
While that's not quite on our radar, we home to be able to service our customers int he EU with parts soon!
@@fcpeuro looking forward to that!
Hello there
I just changed timing chain on 2013 BMW 328i Xdrive N26 you video was very helpful,how ever in my case Im getting some errors and check engine on!!
131501 VANOS,inlet, cold start: not controlable ....
120408 Status: History- boost pressure control: Shut-down as a consecutive reaction
131908 VANOS,inlet: cold Start, Position not reached ....
Any help greatly appreciated !!!- Thank You
Any updates for the problem? I got the same issue after replacing the timing chain as well
I have same problem. Did you solve it?
Update to below original comment. I just put my socket and rachet on the intake cam bolt and just ever so slight went in reverse. Chain didn't move at all and now the timing tool pin goes into the hole freely with no resistance. I wonder if this mean these bolts can be overtorqued.
‐--‐---------‐
I'm in the middle of doing this job with your parts and tools. Questions about the green timing chain tool. The exhaust pin goes into hole smoothly but the intake pin catches and takes some force to get into the hole. I can fix this by loosing the the intake timing bolt but then when I torque it back down, the same thing happens again. Is this OK or does this mean the timing is slightly off? If slightly off, how do I get it back to normal? Currently everything for the timing chain is locked down with your tools to include the flywheel. I've already installed the new oil pump chain and got all of that torqued and timed with cta tool but I have since removed those tools. Any idea what the problem is here and how I get the pin to go into the timing hole smoothly again and stay in that position when tightening it down?
Just to know how mucho time to did a job in the time belt from the car was buy? I have a Bmw 328i 2014 with 61305 miles. No issues at the time.
You are under the BMW warranty! take it to the dealer .. they will do it for free. they just extended warranty till 70k
I’m having issues with starting my car. Getting a camshaft position sensor fault code
So the new chain kit guides assembly is also made of a plastic type material. That seems to be the weak point in the BMW design. What is the difference b/w the old plastic timing chain guides vs the new timing chain guides? Why didn't BMW redesign the unit in metal or at least re-enforce the unit with metal at the weak points ? Is the new chain a better design ,more robust than the old chain, as you mentioned the timing chain stretched.
Hi Don, the parts are new replacements; it would most likely cost BMW too much to make those out of stronger materials, which is usually why they are mainly plastic. The same goes for the chain; it is a standard replacement. The best thing you can do to help this long term is to maintain healthy oil change/service intervals.
That push tab on the cowl dropped didnt it,lol.... nice save with the reverse play...
You caught that 😎
there is a strange intermittent vibration that can also be felt on the steering wheel... this is only when the car is at rest when the gas is added the vibration goes away... I have been struggling with this problem for 2 years and I don't know what it is... the vibration to be exact it's like a vibration from a phone that can be felt on the steering wheel... please advise???
Great video very helpful I appreciate the information doing my first tomorrow. I'm just curious that front main seal is a ptfe seal the instructions say to leave them dry. Do you suggest using lube ? Also you call them cam adjusters are they not just reloctor wheels? I only ask cause I want to do this job well but I feel like I'm nagging not my intention
Hello guys from FCP euro, absolutely great online shop and very helpful videos. I have a question regarding to my BMW X5 F15 2016 3.5i xDrive, my mileage is 70000mi. What is the service interval for timing chain set replacing for N55? When should I consider changing my timing chain set? Thank you!
hey bud great video little long but super informative thank you!!!!
Nice video , just one question, on about 15:00 you're going to tight the cam sprockets to the camshaf. However, is this not giving slack to the chain? Don't you have to put the basic tension on the chain before tighting these sprockets?
Hi HSM Autoservice, you actually don't have to put tension on the chain at this point, it isn't until you tighten the crank bolt that it is necessary to have the chain under tension. Since the cam shaft and sprocket are both locked in position at this point, the chain can spin freely on the crank shaft sprocket. Once you go to tighten that crank shaft sprocket you need to make sure the chain is pre-tensioned though. Thanks for watching the video!
@@fcpeuro thank you sir, I thought it to matter due to little slack of the chain between the sprockets while tightening (especially the first one you did)
and thus influencing timing between camshaf sprockets (?) even thoug very slightly
I agree with you, HSM Autoservice 👍
Do the cam sprockets have any timing marks to follow.or it doesn't matter which direction they are on as long as adjuster flanges are timed with tools and cams are locked with tools?????
No, they do not.
Is this also for the 2016 bmw 328i x drive??
Can you guys do an upper and lower timing chain replacement with tensioners on a mk7 gti?
Beautiful good job 👍love it thanks.!
Is it possible to only replace the chain guide without fully removing the chain?
Due to the setup, you need to replace all of it, and seeing how the chains stretch, we always recommend you do :)
@@fcpeuro thanks. Can you use the chain breaker available at FCP to open chain and replace that way from top without dropping oil pan? Like the N26 engine.
I was doing some research through the repair manual and it mentions that the high pressure feed pipe to the fuel rail must be replaced and can’t be reused. This was not mentioned in the video but has anyone here reused the same fuel line and saw no leaks?
I just replaced my timing chain on my 2014 bmw 328i xdrive n26 engine. Everything went well, and I drove the car a little while seemed to run great no issues then when I was coming to a stop the front left of my car made a screech sound and it turned off and now wont start any ideas? Would help alot.
Sorry to hear that Sharp. You will need to get back in and start removing and diagnosing as it could be anything in a large job such as this DIY.
A mechanic shop changed my timing chain kit after failure at 72k miles. Now im getting low oil pressure again…. I can’t believe it. I don’t know what to do, i just paid $3,000 . Its a 2015 328i n26. Could the pump now be failing? Why would a nee timing chain fail again…
So they have not redesigned the two rails where they clip together?
Guys I have a f30 320d 2013...has 105k miles and should I change it? It sounds and seems goof no issues and BMW dealer service said all is good so...hope someone can give some advice😊
What about the initial start-up?!? No money-shot?