DIY Rotary Module for K40 Laser Engravers!
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- Опубликовано: 26 дек 2024
- After many requests, I have finally put together a guide to make your own rotary module for your K40 laser engraver! This is a surprisingly simple build and will undoubtedly be the best accessory you will have for your K40!
While there are 3D printed parts in this project, I have listed alternatives for those pieces so access to a printer is not entirely necessary.
Please post below if you have any comments, questions or suggestions!
If you are looking to get a Glowforge Laser, you can use my referral code to get:
$600 off a pro, $300 off a plus, or $150 off a basic!
I'll get credit too! Use the link below.
glowforge.us/f...
Links to all Parts:
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3D Printed Rotary Chassis File - geeksmithing.c...
OR
Laser Cut Rotary Chassis .svg File - geeksmithing.c...
3D Printed Belt Pulleys File- geeksmithing.c...
OR
Metal Belt Pulleys for Linear Rod (GT2- 40 Teeth):
amzn.to/2MZXAlZ
NEMA 17 Stepper Motor :
amzn.to/3EIY5XX
Rubber Grommets (5/16 I.D. x 5/8 O.D):
amzn.to/2A0qNEY
Skateboard Bearings - 608-2RS 8x22x7mm:
amzn.to/313MnEb
Rubber Belt (GT2-200- 6mm):
www.amazon.com...
Metal Pulley for Stepper Motor (GT2- 20 Teeth 6mm):
amzn.to/313eRxX
Linear Motion Rod (8mm x 300mm):
amzn.to/2Lty71b
Heat Shrink:
amzn.to/2PUJncr
Wire Loom Cable Wrap:
amzn.to/31ccKYZ
M3 Hex Screws (9mm long) for Stepper Motor Mounting:
amzn.to/2ZLq4FT
Stainless Steel Ruler:
amzn.to/2PS1bEM
Pneumatic Nibbler:
amzn.to/2PUJCEn
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Amazon K40 Laser Link: (These go in and out of stock often, so I will try to keep these K40 links current in hopes you can find one!)
www.amazon.com...
For a Laser that has an even BIGGER cutting capacity and MORE cutting power than the K40 or Glowforge AND still cheaper than the Glowforge. (Sometimes these can come with Rotarys as well, just be sure to double check)
amzn.to/3knvGxy
If you are still looking to get a Glowforge Laser, you can use my referral code:
I'll get credit too! Use the link below.
glowforge.us/f...
The above links are Amazon Affiliate links and help support Geeksmithing Projects.
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Software I use:
Adobe Creative Cloud (Includes everything listed below):
adobe.prf.hn/c...
Adobe Photoshop (Raster Graphics):
adobe.prf.hn/c...
Adobe Illustrator (Vector Graphics):
adobe.prf.hn/c...
Adobe Premiere (Video Editing):
adobe.prf.hn/c...
Adobe After Effects (Video Effects):
adobe.prf.hn/c...
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Social Links:
Website: geeksmithing.com
Twitch geeksmithing.co...
Instagram geeksmithing.co...
Patreon: geeksmithing.co...
Twitter geeksmithing.co...
Facebook geeksmithing.co...
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Music: www.bensound.com
Best explanatory video I've seen in a long time.
Thanks Tom! I appreciate that! It is a tricky balance of being entertaining yet informative. Thanks for watching!
@@Geeksmithing typed the link in manually and got the files. Must of had a popup blocker that was blocking it.
I saw this today, March 20, 2023 and I have already started printing parts to make this. Great video and explanation!
Oh nice! I hope it works out well for you! Good luck! Thanks for watching! Btw, today is March 20th, 2023. 😉
@@Geeksmithing Correct, our day is almost 3 quarters done!
The printing is going full steam ahead!
@@parkflyer68 curious that you put the wrong date in your post. 🤷♂️. Good luck on the printing!
@@Geeksmithing oh geez, I have April on the brain...... I meant March! ;)
i hope more content creators were like this...no BS...just the content without any distracting things :) thank you sir :)
Oh wow, thank you so much! I appreciate that!
I hope you enjoy the rest of my stuff here as well. 🤓😆
Don’t really bother commenting, but come on this guy’s breakdown 👏👏👏
Haha, cheers! I appreciate it!
Thanks for the video! A warning to those with larger (60W and above) lasers: this NEMA 17 motor will be fried by the motor driver. Those larger CO2 lasers use NEMA 23 motors so use one of those instead, and they also use a GX16 aviation plug connector.
The title and thumbnail literally say "for K40 Laser Engravers"... Those models you list are not K40's... Sorry, I do not share your concern.
@@Geeksmithing I edited my comment to be a warning to people with larger lasers that use the bigger NEMA 23 motors. Hopefully people will see that comment if they are going to try to make a similar rotary based off this design. Thanks again.
Interestingly, because you turn the rubber wheels that then turn the bottle, the Y scale factor isn’t affected by a change in the diameter of the bottle. Neat way of doing it. You probably mentioned it but I missed it in your explanation.
Also, the stepper turns both rollers but if the friction is enough it only needs to turn one, the other can just be an idler. That way you can get rid of the belt. Chances of slipping would be more unless the drive wheels were carrying most of the weight. This way conical shapes would be possible without the cone climbing out as the different diameters travel different distances. You really only want one roller to drive, all others should freewheel. The shape will be distorted because the smaller diameter travels less than the larger diameter.
I know this is a really old comment, but can you explain what you mean about conical shapes not creeping if you have one drive roller and one idler?
@@dustinhanlin basically, if you have two driven rollers their outside diameter turns at the same rate. Unless the shape you’re turning has the same diameter in contact with the driven rollers it will slip on one of the rollers or try to move axially.
@@klave8511 ok that does make sense. I had to visualize it to get what you were saying. Most tumblers are conical so I guess this design isn't ideal for those. I hadn't thought of that before I got the parts together. Maybe I'll just have to design one myself using some of the parts and convert the one wheel to an idler.
Where there is a will there is a way.
Thanks geeks, there is a place in this world for you guys
Keep geeking
The Geek will inherit the earth.
@@Geeksmithing sounds like a t-shirt to me.
Can I copyright that 😄👍
One more vid to convince my wife to buy one.. and the ad spot for the podcast was great.
It is my sole motivation! ;) And yeah, I thought the ad was fun too! :)
great tution mate cheers heres a tip the geminitsu rotary fits an works without cutting k40 bed ...by simply reversing the red an blue wires on rotary axis an turning it upside down lol simple as that
Not sure I follow about the reversing bit.
By far, one of the best, if not the best, DIY videos I have ever seen
Thank You for it
Dale
Oh wow. Thank you so much! Can't ask for a higher bar that that! :D
Great video. I must admit that the laser printer is looking more and more enticing 🤪
😆🤓
Enticing enough to order it now?
@@GeekBuildersNet 🤞
Hy and thx for the video! I want to build this rotary but i'm having trouble finding this exact stepper motor. Could you please update to exact model or replacement that i could use? Thx!
Hi. All items used in the project are listed in description of this video, including the stepper motor. I just verified the link is still valid and in stock.
Great video - after watching this video a couple of times I was able to make a working version in a matter of days using my 3D printer and scrap/recovered parts from old inkjet printers - thank you.
Oh wow! That's super cool!! Can't ask for for a better result than that!!
I did the same thing! Just used it for the first time today and it's working great!
Someone's been watching This Old Tony ;) . great video
Is your website gonna be back soon? Would love to start printing parts needed for this mod.
Thank you for this video.
So sorry for the delay, but I finally have the files back online. Please check the video description for the link! :)
Great video, Can you tell what power you use and the speed . Thank you
Thanks!!!! I believe it was around 7mA of power and 200 in/sec raster engraving pass
@@Geeksmithing thank you I appreciate your help.
If you plug in the 4 prong Y axis plug backwards, I think it won't work at all. The red/green wires in the middle would have to be swapped also. I'm speculating.
It will just cause the motor to turn the opposite direction. ;) I know cause I have accidentally done this. :)
I wanted to thank you for this vid. There are a handful of clever little ideas in here which some people may not appreciate, but I certainly do. :)
Hey cheers! I really appreciate that!
Nice job explaining in lay terms. Especially like that this is done on a stock K40 using Inkscape and Whisperer.
Thanks Scott! I appreciate that! It is amazing what this machine can do when combined with some free softwarer :)
Have you thought about using 2, 3, or 4 different sized rubber wheels on 1 end that you can slide in & out so you can do non nice cylinder? So like the slanted coffee tumbler.
You could totally do that! My solution is I have a 3d printed ring that I slip into the narrower side of the tumbler that keeps it lifted up and level. Good idea though!
@@Geeksmithing Correct me if I am wrong, but I have tried this - (I am very new to this laser process) - by adding a taller ring for say the 30 oz tumbler that has a larger taper in the bottom, you must change the rotary settings as it stretches the grid test substantially. Settings must be changed to do this...am I correct about this?
I like your design. I have an Anet A8 I am adding a laser to. I think I will build a rotary axis. I am have to change the orientation, but it's looks doable.
Nice! What are you planning on lasering once you have one?
Mostly hobby stuff. Cups and mugs, but it opens the door for me to build laser engraver for martial arts weapons. I'm also rebuilding a 1980 Cj5 jeep and the dash will have an aircraft-like setup. I think the possibilities are endless.
Thanks for the vid!
@@Aikidoman06 I think you will run into issues lasering mugs and cups with a diode based laser, but only one way to find out! 😆
Geeksmithing maybe, but I'm going to give it a shot. I've been looking into building a full blown tube laser cutter.
@@Aikidoman06 awesome! Please share when you get it up and running!
Mine gets here Wednesday, hoping to do bottles for deer camp this year for everyone. What happens if the bottle isn't same size all the way down? Is there anyway to do that or is it a lost cause? Only thing I can think of would be to shim it so it's all the same distance from the laser
If you are doing a tapered tumbler or something similar, I cut a ring out of some scrap to fit on the bottom (or a roll of tape even!) to let the tumbler ROLL square (keeping the bottle surface slanted). As for engraving areas that are on a taper, I have found that you can only laser a tapered region as long as that region falls within the focal range of the laser... As you may or may not know, the laser lens has like a sweet spot that it can remain in focus within... usually about 55mm to 65mm from the lens. This 10mm range is all you have to work with. If the design can remain within that 10 mm region as the bottle changed shape, then it should work.. It will be tempting and intuitive to want to raise the tapered end up enough so that the surface is level. (by shimming underneath one end of the rotary device) This MAY work for you if your image is not very big, but it may cause an issue as the object rolls around, and will result in a distorted image in your finished product. It may be possible to compensate for the distortion in the image editing software, but I have not tried it. I definitely recommend a test bottle to laser on over and over again to get it all sorted.
I hope that novel of a response helps and makes sense. Good luck on your project!!
@@Geeksmithing Thank you so much! I really appreciate the response and the words of wisdom! I'll try my best!
I don´t know shit about lasers, but after this video i feel like i could do this.. Very well explained!!!
Just started to print and order the bits to make one of these for my 100W Laser - think I'm going to have to tweak the design as my laser uses Nema 23's and an aviation connector. Great design tho :)
Awesome! I'm sure it will work great! :)
Great video and I love the Special FX!!!!
🤓👍
Really cool presentation and excellent kudos for making it available to print etc.
One thing I dont understand is how do you cope with cone shape items like the drinking cups and say a 1 pint glass which is say 4 inches at the top and 3 at the bottom of a height of 10 inches .
There is nothing on the rotary machine to cope for the difference in level? Normally I would expect to see a adjustable wheels , Bars at the bottom of the Rotary unit .
Do you put something under the shallower end to lift it up as the bottom of the glass is out of focus compared to the top Surely??
I would love to know how you resolve this please. Many thanks Neil
Hey Thanks! Yeah for tapered objects, instead of taking things apart and adding new roller each time, I have found that it is easier to cut a wooden ring (with the laser cutter) that will fit onto the smaller end of the glass for example, that will allow it to roll squarely. It may take some fiddling with sizes to get it just right, but very useful if you are batching items out. The other thing I have used in a pinch, is a roll of masking tape actually. It fits right onto the end of a tumbler perfect and I just used up enough tape to get it to be the correct thickness so that it rolls square. Hope that makes sense. Good question!
@@Geeksmithing I thought some thing like that, all you need to do really is add two rollers at the other end on a angled hole each side, allows them to be tightened on piece fo 2020 and you have a K40 tightening adjustable 2020 bed that works perfectly for odd shaped circles.
thank you so much for your lesson! I'll try using mm where I live...
Excellent presentation. I have had a K40 for about a week now but still haven't used it!! I'm waiting for a honeycombe base, have added air assist, red dot laser, water temp gauge, ammeter and threw the air extract internal "funnel" in the bin. I didn't bother shortening it as it is pants. I cut a 4" hole in the side of the machine for clear turbulence free extraction. I bought the machine for "flat" projects to enhance my woodworking projects. I've read statements claiming that the K40 can't have a rotary function but it was in my mind that all I had to do was what you have here but I wondered if I was missing something. All of this is to demonstrate my lack of knowledge or experience before I ask this question. If you increased the diameter of the wheel on the stepper motor would that resolve / remove the need for the calculation? Can a perfect stepper wheel diameter be achieved?
I suppose that is possible, but there can be a variance depending on the stepper motors, and it might not be a one size fits all type of situation. Great question though! Congrats on the new shop addition and I hope it all works out for you! Drop me a line if I can help in any way! :)
Great idea and great video. Do you know when your website will be back up? I really need to build this but I'd like to get the laser cut files. Thanks!
So sorry for the delay, but I finally have the files back online. Please check the video description for the link! :)
@@Geeksmithing Thank you very much!
@@deanclauson3566 happy to help! Good luck!
12:18 RIP King of Random :(
i enjoyed your video!
Thanks!....RIP. 🙁
very well done wes! I've been holding off on the rotary until I saw your video. The rotary looks great, and the results are perfect. Also for those who don't know how to calibrate the rotary, good job explaining that in the video.
Thanks Matt! I had too much fun making the animations in this vid! Glad it all made sense!
@@Geeksmithing I loved the animations!
First off great instructional video easiest one to understand out of most. I have made the rotary and worked fine and I actually added 2 dpdt swiches instead of pulling it out of main board all the time makes me think eventually the connection may break but the switches work fine going from regular cutting to rotary by flipping switches and I thought I had it calibrated until I put a quick 4 pin disconnect on it and I made sure it was pin for pin but now again calibration is off and it runs backwards and I'm off calibration by 3.6875 inches but with your calculation its saying something like .27 inches switch I had it at .83 before it rasters fine except it looks kinda crunched in I'm going to take off quick disconnect off and see if it changes direction but .27 seems like it would make it more crunched can you check your calculation on a 9.5 circumference x 6 tall bottle and see what you come up with I may just be brain farting and doing something stupid simple but it worked at .83 really close until I added disconnect any help would be appreciated and once again awsome video explanation thank you you can also email me at mag200181@gmail.com if you would like more info. Thank you
Such a great teacher thank you for showing this I had no idea it was using the Y axis output.
Hey thanks!! Yeah, it kinda blew my mind when I realized it too!
I've had a rotary for a few months and have yet to use it. WIth this video, I think it will be easy to get great results. What is a good power setting for powder coating?.....you were at 7mA (what is that in percentage....I have the percentage pane). Thanks!
Hmmm good question... Not completely sure, but I'd start at 25% and go up from there. Until you see it is zapping it away.
Super video, even a parts list with sources. Wow. Thank you.
My pleasure, thanks!!!
Awesome video, I just ordered all my parts to make this rotary device. Gonna cut my frames out of acrylic since I have some laying around. Thanks for a great explanation.
Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions!
Thank you I'm building my own custom snare drums and have been looking for a way to do this to different drum shells I design. Great Video!
Oh awesome! I'd love to see what you come up with!!
@@Geeksmithing Ok I'll make a video sometime
most useful explanation within the first two minutes Ive ever heard. TY
Oh wow. Fantastic comment! Thanks! I am glad it came across as clearly as I had hoped. :)
Simple ,clear and informative. Nice one
Cheers! 👍
Really loved your video. Refreshing to get your take on these cheap laser's and to get the most out of it. Thank you and keep up the amazing work!
Hey thanks!! I appreciate it!
Subbed as soon as I seen the intro, I loved that game 😂
Haha thanks man!!! 😁 Me too!!!
I need to get two of those stepper motors. So cute!
😁🤓
Thanks for the video on this! Looks way simpler than I had in mind. I knew there had to be some kind of correction factor and axis substitution going on but was unsure how it was done. Now Ive made up my mind to get one of these devices. Awesome work man!
Excellent!!! Happy to help!:) I also thought it had to be more complex than it really ended up being!
That will only be correct for that particular bottle, a larger or smaller bottle would need some more fine tuning right?
The diameter of the bottle has no bearing on that. Once you do the calibration step I show in the video, that holds regardless of the size. When you get a larger bottle, it's changing the circumference. That is the measurement that matters as it dictates the dimension of your design. The height of the design is constrained by the bottom of the bottle to the mouth of the bottle, but the width just gets wider as the diameter increases. The larger the circumference, the longer distance the rollers have to spin the bottle to make a full revolution. Hope that makes sense.
hi, thanks for all but you can put a video how put the limit switch please
How put the limit switch? Sorry, not sure I follow.
This is so easy! And I think I have everything but the rods.
Heck yeah! I was surprised how much I had on hand too!!
How do you go about tapered items, just raise one end of the rotary bed?
I fashioned a ring (laser cut piece or even a roll of tape) to fit around the tapered end to hold it up so that it spun level. Lifting the rotary can cause a distorted image.
How do you adjust the focus the bottom cut out?
Very well done and quite an ingenious idea, thanks for sharing this and all the details, thank you
Thanks! I appreciate that!
Great explanatory video. Question: the rotary table has a fixed spacing between the struts. What is the minimum and maximum diameter circular object the table will handle?
Seems like you should just wire up a simple toggle to close that limit switch circuit on your control panel. Assuming its Normally Open, you can just close the circuit and label it "Rotary Mode".
It's only a difference of using my right arm to press this hypothetical button, or left arm to press the limit switch. 🤷♂️ Doesn't seem worth it to me. Good suggestion though!
@@Geeksmithing its permanent and looks intentional my way? But touche'. I am just right handed. LOL
@@waldvogelreview7755 I don't engrave many bottles anymore, and the limit switch is also permanent. ;)
couldnt you avoid needing the calibration by copying the ratio of the original y axis stepper motor to the linear movement of the gantry?
Good question. I am not sure.
@@Geeksmithing I'll be honest, i wasnt expecting such a quick reply. Also, might be something fun to figure out if you are so inclined.
@@josephgauthier5018 Ha, well, honestly, I am onto other projects atm, and don't have much of a need to investigate this. If it ain't broke and all that... Besides,
I'm not entirely sure what you meant by the ratio thing anyways. :D
@@Geeksmithing that's fair. This isn't exactly for someone who is only willing to do plug and play.
Do you have the STLs posted somewhere?
So sorry for the delay, but I finally have the files back online. Please check the video description for the link! :)
Awesome video! Great explanations!!!
And I loved the This Old Tony assembly method!
Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks!! It's funny, I have honestly never seen one of his vids ( I know, I know!) and that's not the first time I heard someone make that reference for this video!
@@Geeksmithing given some of your editing choices on this video, I really think you'd like his sense of humor.
hello Do you remove the laser tube when cutting the bottom of the unit? Thank for your reply
I did not. The region being cut is pretty isolated from the tube. As long as you tape up all of the mirrors and the holes in the chassis where the beam exits the tube area right after the first mirror bounce, it should be fine.
THANK YOU for sharing!!! You obviously gained a sub! When doing taped cups like the white one in your video,are you just jacking up one end until it's level and still within the focus parameters?Now you got me thinking of raising the machine,adding a lens on a Z servo,and doing all sorts of neat stuff!Or seeing if the light can be guided through a fiber optic or something!Probably be easier just to get something bigger than a diode laser to work on my CNC engraver or 3D printer.Too many toys,Too little time.You get a Smiley Face for the day!
The tapered cups are a bit trickier, as you actually do NOT want the surface of the cup to be perfectly parallel when lasering, as it will actually distort your image as it gets lasered onto the cup. I would cut a wooden ring on the laser to slip onto the tapered end of the cup. This outside diameter of the ring would be the same diameter as the widest part of the cup making contact with the rollers. If you can imagine, this makes the tapered cup roll like a perfect cylinder. The tricky part is making sure that the region of the cup you wish to laser needs to be withing that focal range at its closest point and it furthest point from the lens.. Hopefully that makes sense.
@@Geeksmithing Makes perfect sense,and WAY easier than my idea!
@@Bowtie41 I am also interested in adding and adjustable Z axis though, perhaps even motorizing it as you suggested!:)
I realize that it's too late now, but could you have used a shallower focal point lens instead of nibbling your bottom out?
That is also an option, but in my case I wanted have no limit in other objects I could laser with or without the rotary. It's not super uncommon for the more expensive CO2 laser systems to have a removable bottom for such things. Good observation though!
Thanks for posting the video. If you haven’t already, check out Lightburn. I use it for my CNC laser and it seems a lot of people use it for K40s. Great product for the price.
Well, in order to use Lightburn, the control board needs to be replaced. I have that upgrade waiting in a box in the shop (Cohesion3D) , I am just waiting to go thru some more K40 videos using the stock hardware before making that jump.
There is also a lot of chatter about replacing the K40 control boards as you know. I am running Lightburn with an Arduino Uno and GRBL. Works like a champ.
I'm getting vertical line, it not smooth raster engraving. Any ideas?
does your y-scale you calculated change if you use a bigger diameter bottle, or is that a one time setting? thanks
It does not change with the diameter of the bottle.
Thanks for finally doing this. Yes, I did bug the crud out of you over this subject.. Thanks for helping!
I am happy that you did! Keep perstering me! 😆
Thanks Wes! I know what I’m doing this week.
Haha! Definitely should!! :)
Makes me want to go out and buy one!
😉🙃
Do it. I give you permission.
Just out of curiosity how long did that Tumblr take to engrave on that K40
I'm considering replacing my xtool D1 with ak-40 and I mostly just do small flat stock and tumblers and just seeing if it will give me a speed increase
I'd say about 15 minutes. Probably not running at top speed. If there is detail all the way around it takes longer. A typical tumbler with a small message is like 10 minutes.
Nice tutorial. Do you think this could be adapted to the Atomstack A5 Pro as well?
Probably as long as the laser is powerful enough, I think a similar approach could be taken.
Great Design! I made one very similar after watching your video but out of aluminum instead. (I'm a waterjet operator for the day job) I was wondering what bottle you were using and how you get the engraving to show up so clean? I am having a problem with the engraving almost not getting all the way through it seams. I have tried on multiple power settings but can't get one to turn out clean like yours. Any and all advice is appreciated!! Thank You!
Hello! The bottle I used was a cheap one from Wal-Mart actually... They often have a variety scatter throughout the store. I just use the settings shown in the video, and the use goo gone to clean it up at the end. If the image is jagged, then you are likely going too fast.
Awesome video as always. Love seeing this K40 stuff.
And nice to see the new bottle design. I won the older one from your survey competition a while back and I love it! It’s holding up nicely despite pretty much constant use.
I also just stuck your sticker & the Making Geeks one on my new tool wall/rolling workbench/storage/garage organiser this morning.
Oh hey! Glad to hear it is holding up!! They are fantastic. :). Thanks for watching and listening!! Cheers!
Also I'm happy to adorn your shop items! 😊👍
Is there an easy solution to bringing items of different diameters into focus? I'm used to being able to adjust the laser head to get the proper focal length, but with everything stationary, this is throwing me for a loop! And of course I just bought the k40 strictly for my tumbler etching 🤣 ... 🧐🤓
Well, there is no dynamic focus or anything, as you said, it is all pretty static. The only caveat is that the lens has focal range where it is more or less in focus. This is how I am able to do tumblers myself! On mine, I just adjust the height of the tumbler so that it is like 55 mm between lens and the closest point of cup using a ruler. The focal range of the laser is about 10 mm, so the furthest point that can remain in focus is 65mm away. On the tumblers that I laser engrave for example, I cannot engrave the section that is super tapered between the upper section and the lower section of the tumbler. ( If that makes sense). I just stick to you engraving the upper section and there's enough range there to allow for that. I really should do a follow-up video specifically about tumblers. Feel free to message me if you have any other questions I'll be happy to answer them best I can. Good luck with your new laser!
Most of what I want to work with are not perfectly round...how's the quality, and how well doe sit work, on non-perfectly-cylindrical objects like the first (white) water bottle you showed?
For objects that are tapered, I make a ring(sometimes laser cut, sometimes just a roll of tape!) And stick it on the end to allow it to roll level. Then as long as the surface that you plan on lasering is within the focal range, it works pretty well.
@@Geeksmithing Great idea thanks!
Another question, do you know, is there a limit to the circumference of the object? Sorry if this is a silly question...I've used 3D printers but not lasers. I'm guessing since the X limit switches are never triggered the system wouldn't know the diff, but the software might.
Say I want to engrave an object with an 8 inch diameter...technically that's a ~25 inch circumference!
@@AFlyingBean as long as you can fit the object in there, and have the surface at the right distance for the laser, it doesn't matter! (even easier if you remove the bottom from the laser as I show). I have engraved a big 64 OZ growler bottle in there and it worked perfect.
www.walmart.com/ip/bubba-Stainless-Steel-Growler-Water-Bottle-with-Wide-Mouth-64oz-Licorice/765224900
@@AFlyingBean exactly, the Y axis limit switch is never triggered, so it just keeps going, and the software doesn't care how tall the image is that you are engraving :)
Hi. Thanks for this video. But the 22mm bearings are too small for the chassis mount holes?? The holes are 23.5mm or there abouts, the bearings are 22mm.Also the pulley holes are 8.25 not 8mm. There is also no way of securing the pulley to the 8mm rod???
I am currently revising the models for this and will update the files this week. Sorry for the trouble.
I have revised the chassis model and updated the STL file on my website.
As far as the gear not fitting, this is the first I have heard of this issue... I will investigate it.
It's an old (and great!) video but i hope i'm getting an answer anyway: Which stepper Motor exactly schould i buy for this? The Amazon link lists more than 20 hits with all different kind of motor's, and i don't want to pick one that kills the driver board.
Hey! I will check up on the Amazon links today and get you one!
This is the exact one I used:
amzn.to/2GhoS5w
Not sure why Amazon was acting up, the link seemed to still be valid. 🤷♂️🤔
@@Geeksmithing Thank you so much !!!!!
Thanks so much for sharing this!
Hope it helps!
I had great expectations for this video, which in it self is awesome. Started to watch it and got more and more discouraged by the minute!! Not your fault off course. Rather quick I thought to my self: ok, yeah, aha...... that's never gonna happen. No way I am going to build that rotary module!!! So I took a shortcut and found one on amazon. Should arrive next week. ;-) Next challenge is understanding the software!!! Any advise on that to someone that is not nearly as geeky as he wants to be. :-)
Thanks!!! Well, I explain the software on the video as well, I hope it helps! 😆
It's exceptionally easy to build. I didn't do the geometry; I just printed a logo, adjusted the Y-steps, printed again, and after only three burns I got it dialed in. Turned out to be just about 2.0 x diameter for the steps per mm. An 80 mm bottle needed 160 steps/mm.
I’m curious, how do the designs work when the cup is angled? Like how the 20 Oz Yetis are wider at the top than bottom.
I work with vinyl and I know the images can be warped to fit. Same premise? What about the laser being further away from the item at the more narrow part?
Holly Ellis You would change how far from the ground the rotary is. You would either engrave the top or bottom part of the 30oz yetis, and the 20oz should be fine
Great video. I'm probably just tired, but I'm not following why its necessary to cut out the bottom to use the rotary. It doesn't look like you elevated the unit. It looks like you're only gaining the thickness of the bottom. What am I missing?
For that specific example/diameter of a bottle, you are right, it's not necessary. Any diameter larger than about 3 inches will require the bottom to be cut out to accommodate larger bottles/objects.
@@Geeksmithing Ok. that makes sense. Thanks for the response. Keep making the videos. They are helpful. My K40 is coming next week. Will be fun to try it out if i can get through the setup.
@@dvdmementos I appreciate that! I hope to make many more this year for different materials, techniques and mods for the K40. Good luck!
@@Geeksmithing Do you have link to that bottle you're using?
@@dvdmementos not that one sadly. Walmart sold them, never on their site annoyingly, so I would have to scour various stores to find them. They were awesomely cheap, but elusive.
how do the wires on that motor map to the pins/colors of the existing connection?
love your style man keep it up
Thanks Tom!
I want to buy a laser cutter just so I can make one of these, I love it. TFS, G :)
Can you engrave anodized bottles or only painted? Where do you get the bottles? How is the K40 working for you? I am thinking of getting one but am hesitant to get a Chinese made K40 knowing (and seeing on Utube) the quality of these machines? But ...at the same time I don't want to spend thousands for my first machine.
The K40 can laser off powdercoater paint and anodization as well. (I have lasered colored/anodized dog tags before)
If you get the K40 on Amazon, you are pretty protected from a consumer standpoint. I have heard of folks getting things replaced and remedied when things happen to arrive broken. I figured for the cost, it as worth the risk, and worst case I could use the parts for a robot or 3D printer😆🤷♂️. I have a video on the K40 that gives more guidance of interested. Good luck!
Great how-to. Just don't have a laser cutter nor a 3D printer. Wanted to use this rotary for a slightly different use case. Is there any chance that you would sell a pair of laser-cut Rotary Chassis parts?
Good video and great teaching.
Im planning to buy one of this machines. I have a question my purpose of buying this machine because i want to do engrave names and perhaps images to, on coffee mugs.
Can i built a metal stand that i can idjust to have a better clean image and letters. Whats the lazer distance need to be from object to have a clear and clear letters or image. Thank you very much for your great video. Take care
I successfully built the rotary. I am noticing sleight wavy lines parallel with the y axis when raster engraving. The rotary spins true and belt tensions are good. Any ideas where my issue lies?.
Hmmm... Not off hand, but send me a message/pic of it on one of my social media platforms (or contact thru my website) so I can get a better idea.
Thanks for the video! Can't wait to give it a try. One issue is that the stepper motor holes don't line up with design of the frame. Am I missing something?
Hmmm first I have heard of that.
@@Geeksmithing Sorry I didn't see that the stepper motor needed to mounted diagonally.
@@sdepace no worries, glad you got it sorted
Have you by any chance made a lower profile rotary module to alleviate the need to cut the bottom of the laser? Or are there any modules that you may know of that someone else builds or sells already assembled that can work with this machine?
Thanks.
As far as I know, you may have a hard time finding other rotary devices that are lower. That was one reason I made this as low as I could, to help prevent cutting the bottom out of possible.
Damn this video is so freaking good. Can't wait to cut the floor out of my machine once it gets here. Big thanks for the rotary design to save us buying a unit..
Hey, thanks! I appreciate that! Best of luck to you! #teamk40
How difficult would be to increase the working area? X and y axis??? Talking about the flat sourface
Working area is about 14"x9"
Thanks Wes.. .this is going on the list.
You bet!!! My list is so long.... 😆
Ok, I don't have a 3D printer and would like to know where i can get the rotary chassis from.
I also made a laser cut version, you are welcome to try that as well. Link is in the description.
How do you know what level to set your digital control version , which I don’t want to kill my laser
Um, not sure. I dont have that version. Probably not over 75%🤷♂️
How did you get a 200-2GT 6mm belt around the Metal Pulley for the Stepper Motor? Using the links for the parts, the Metal Belt Pulleys for Linear Rod are too tight for the stepper motor pulley.!
I recently started hearing this more. I'm investigating it and looking to make improvements. Sorry for the troubles!
I have revised the chassis files on my website to hopefully allow enough adjustment to help with over-tensioning on belt. Let me know if that helps!
How a bout a Chucked unit?
I want to use this kind of unit.
Your best option for that?
That's a great idea, and I actually went down that path first, but ended up going this way instead as it was fewer parts to make and a bit simpler.
Great question though!
Do you have to recalibrate the rotary for different size cylinders every time you do something different?
Nope! The calibration is for the stepper motor that drives it, not the size of the object. I have engraved even a large growler in this thing, no difference.
@@Geeksmithing awesome, thanks for taking time to answer. Sounds like a great addition for the k40. I'll probably do one on the future.
Are you able to do a bigger diameter yeti tumbler inside the k40?
yeah, but only if you remove the bottom of the unit. Not enough clearance otherwise.
Amazing work! I can't wait to try it.
Just to check, what thickness of wood should you use if laser cutting the chassis?
Also, which length m3's work best for mounting the motor?
Good questions! I used 1/8" pieces of Baltic birch plywood sandwiched together (I need to add that detail to write up...thx!). And I'll measure the screw length when I get home.
@@Geeksmithing Perfect, thank you.
Sorry about the delay. They are 9mm long. Let me know if you have any other questions!
@@DanielLevesley thanks for asking! I will update the info for others. 👍
Good tutorial, we should call you King Tut. I love all the magic fx at the start. I have a Glowforge Pro, anyone ever adapted a rotary to one?
I have not! 🤔
Hi, thanks for this video and the files. I assume I'd be ok using the 330mm x 8mm rods I already have? It looks like there is enough room, judging from the video.
Yeah, I think you should have no probs.
Item I want to engrave is 1' to maybe 2" diameter at most, what is your recommendation on modifying the rotary to accommodate the smaller diameter? Bigger pads on the rollers? Modify the brackets? Make two larger wheels to ride on the rotary with my material threaded on a rod between them?
You could definitely add larger roller wheels... You would just have to raise up the legs as well. There was a person that recently shared a different redesign idea for the rotary that might be worth me investigating to allow for smaller items such as pens or shot glasses... 🤔 Might be worth revisiting...
Great explanation. Thank you. So i activate the bell 😊
Thanks!! Happy to help!
Is calibration necessary because of a difference in stepper motor? I understand that k40's use non standard 0.9 degree angle as compared to 1.8 on standard steppers. Thanks
Great point! That is very likely!
The K40 lasers that you referenced above all state in their descriptions that they are to be used on nonmetal surfaces. If I am interested in doing tumblers, as you did in your video what laser should be purchased? Or is this referring to that it won't "cut" metal?
For tumblers and the bottles in my video, it actually isn't doing anything to the metal at all but vaporizing the powdercoated paint on the surface.
It is merely revealing the metal below. The K40 is certainly capable of that. :). Hope that helps.
And yeah, the K40 and other CO2 lasers of this type cannot engrave or cut metals whatsoever. It can only remove or mark the surface paint/powdercoating or Anodization. Depending on the project, this may be all you need. You can also use a marking spray such as Ceramark to make black letters/graphics on metal surfaces.