Hi! I want to laser etch a 3mm-4mm piece of acrylic. Roughly 17"W x 8"T, I want it to be the face plate for a guitar amplifier head I'm making. I was planning on running LED's inside the head, 360° around the acrylic piece. I was wondering if the piece would illuminate fully, even if it had multiple/crowded etched makings, labels, logos and potentiometers / toggles/ 1/4" mono jacks installed through the acrylic and amp chassis?
Oh cool idea! I think if you did encircle the acrylic, it would have a great chance of being all illuminated, but it's honestly hard to predict until you make the piece. The knobs/ components, etc can block some of the light from various directions, but since you have it coming from all around, it just might work perfect! Hit me up sometime on any of my socials! Best of luck, I'd love to see the progress.
I do not know for certain (as I don't have one like that) but I would just recommend trying a modest setting and working up from there in order to not wreck the tube. Maybe 60% power at the time settings recommended in description/ video?
Nice tutorial. Maybe you can help me understand. I am getting conflicting information when watching different YT channels. Some indicate that I need to put a soapy water solution on the where I am engraving and others don't - I didn't see you do this or hear you say it was needed. In each of the videos I am ensuring they are using a CO2 laser and not a diode laser to ensure the information applies to me. I am using a 150W CO2 laser. Is soapy water needed or not? Any insights are appreciated.
While I have never felt the need to use soapy water for mine, I have also heard of people using it. From what I understand it is supposed to reduce the residue/build up that can make a piece of acrylic look cloudy around the engraving. I believe if you have a good air assist/fan extraction system on your laser, you might not need to bother with it. Just give it a try without and see what happens! Sorry it isn't more of a concrete answer for ya. Good luck!
Great tutorial! I was using this as a test for my new laser tube and was able to get it cut out. Thank you for your detailed explanation using Inkscape and K40 Whisperer!
When I was repairing aircraft in the USN back in the day "1970's", we had similar item that was on the instrument displays, rather than having a laser engrave it was Plexiglass 1/4" thick painted front and back black, then the plexiglass was engraved with a beveled end mill into the plexiglass, and all the nomenclature was then viable during night flights. Same principle just a different method of reaching the same conclusion.
Apologies for the late comments and questions .. Please may I ask what software did you edit the image in.. Is this unique to c.o2 cutting can I apply this to diode laser.. Will diode laser using lightburn also know the difference between red and blue.. To cut or engrave.. Thanks for the information thus far
Hi! I used inkscape to do the image editing. You should be able to use it to edit images for use on a diode laser, but as you suspect, the colors might not work the same way as in K40 Whisperer (the laser control software I used) You can however adopt the same practice of trying to categorize your operations by color to make it easier for you to remember which lines do what. i.e. Red for cutting. blue for vector engrave and black for rastering. In lightburn, it will detect the different colors and split the file into cuts/layers for you. Here you just have to define which colors you want to do what. Hope that helps!
excellent video man. Cheers. I have recently learned that a diode laser cannot cut clear plexiglass/acrylic. Is this true?? I have a Masuter Pro and 20w (5.5 output) laser. I can engrave okay, but it looks as if cutting is out of the question. If any of you know any different, all advise is welcome. Thanks in advance.
After I got my K40 and Glowforge, I have very rarely used my diode laser. It wouldn't surprise me if you had issues, as just cutting cardboard gave me troubles. 😂
@@Geeksmithing :D I've got it dialed in to where it can cut 3mm and 6mm ply (very slowly) but gutted that it can't cut acrylic. That was the joint-main reason I got the thing 🤦
@@SUNRISE-ADVENTURES good question! There are 12V barrel jack plugs you can get to clip right to the spot you cut the strips apart. No soldering required. Here is a link to such a product on Amazon: amzn.to/3dIIkVN
I honestly don't know if I have them anymore, but I'm happy to try to help you get the results you want! Are those areas showing in K40 Whisperer as black regions? If so, then they should be able engrave with the Raster Engrave function.
The software you are using is both included in the K40, or do you need other special software to up load to the laser. What format does the laser use in cutting, ?? I think you mentioned raster? or can you use other forms of extensions? EPS, DXF, GE3, ......?
The software that comes with K40 is a hacked variant of Corel draw, and it's not very good. I use Inkscape for the design and use K40 Whisperer to communicate/control with the laser. Whisperer prefers SVGs saved from Inkscape as far as file formats go.
Great video! The ink scape work alone is worth the price of admission! I've been trying to figure out to get outline cut on something. I just got my k40 set up and I'm having a lot of fun with it.
@@robertchu7977 Great question! You can certainly generate the image in those programs as well as many others...but the K40 Whisperer program that I use with the K40 laser cutter only accepts files formatted from Inkscape. There is a circuit board that I can replace in the machine that opens up the door to many more options and less restriction.
I don't think so, it doesn't seem to be high enough Wattage(power) to cut the acrylic, but perhaps the engraving will be fine. But I don't have experience with that machine.
Wes you're the Bes-t thanks for sharing this with me can't wait to make some nightlights for my kiddos, instead of the on off switch I think I'll do an inline motion activated switch.
Can someone please help me. I lost my agenda with my settings and for medical reasons I haven't use my laser since December...I forgot a lot😢. I use the same programs and I have a 60W Chinese laser. I would like the values for RE, VE, VC and the power for each. This is so frustrating. Thank you
I have a couple of questions, if I may.. Do you have an equipment list that you sand by? I noticed you have a glowforge..do you recommend it of is there another machine.. I've been searching for a good tutorial and yours seems to be the best..
For the price, the K40 is tough to beat... but you have to go into it knowing that there likely will be tinkering and fiddling with it a bit to get it to work for you. You will also likely have to add things and upgrade it a bit to make it more user friendly and safer...If you want to avoid the fuss and hassle of all that, a Glowforge is fantastic. It's all self contained and the user experience is quite good. Once you get it setup, you are up and running in 30 minutes.
Hi im new to laser cutting and have a k40 and trying to cut 3mm balti wood but cannot get the settings right to cut... dont know if i have it too low down from laser as even engraving doesnt show on first passes. and seems like it takes many passes to try and cut thru it think nearly 10 times possibly more.. its started to burn the wood and due to burn it made part to snap. I really need help. Please.
First thing to do is make sure the mirrors are aligned. Having them not properly aligned can sap power away. Also do not ever max out power setting when cutting. It can damage the tube.
@@Geeksmithing see i don't know whether the holding table is too far away from laser... as on your video and another RUclipsRs your tables are close to extraction there is a good 3 to 4inch drop to mine.. i do think my mirrors are out of alignment as did test shots and far away and up close are hitting slightly different spots 😕 i was there nearly 9hrs trying to adjust them too 😪
You definitely need to get the mirrors aligned and there are several good videos and tutorials out there for that. There is also the Ramp test, to help determine the proper distance where you need to have your workpiece to obtain proper focus: ruclips.net/video/iKpONnJru1w/видео.html
I have an outline of pikachu but the k40 wont show it as vector. I Tried raster engrave at 20mm /3pwr but it didn't engrave. I originally used 10 pwr but it was leaving globs of plastic where it would engrave. Should I use blue or navy blue when selecting my image in inkscape? thanks
When raster engraving the outline, you can only use a pure blue, (0, 0, 255 on the RGB values) else it will read it as black and can only be raster engraved.
If you allow, what is the name of this machine per minute at 4.45, since I do not see a laser beam and what is the thickness of the acrylic that you are working with
Hmmm.... Great question.... I would guess it would be more like 20%....🤷♂️. I consider 15mA my machines max(100%) that I never try too often..... Hopefully that gets you in the range to fine tune it the rest of the way. Great question though!!!
@@Geeksmithing well, i didn't think that my question will be answered because of this video just uploaded over a year. I really say thank you for ur answer. I have been trying 20% and 15% (speed 100mm/s). Actually 20% is very detailed+contrast but its look like to deep for engraving photo. i have not test with led, so i dont know it is good or not. I hope i can make it as soon as possible. I hope you will make more videos about engraving or cutting. Btw nice video, i learn much from the video for my job
@@maspaijo2334 I try to answer ever question :) I am happy to help, that is great that it has helped you so much!!☺️ To make these LED signs work, it doesn't take much of an engraving at all. If it is too deep, it will actually prevent as much light from continuing up to the rest of the design. Good luck, and thanks for the support! 👍🤓
@@Geeksmithing if it does not then cut a pair of clear and white and sandwich then together with white as the backing. I noticed looking at the finished product it had a slight distaction because you could see the stuff behind it. I have a k40 that i want to start using but it cant kick this 3d design/print addiction
I’m a little late but I was wondering would it be possible to make this with the ortur laser master 2 20w? Thanks again for all the great and useful content
I love the video, I have a 40w co2 lazer, I guess its a K40, but i dont know what the current rating would be as mine is in %, any help on that would be great..
Hmmm. I don't have that exact info, but I would just suggest starting with a scrap piece and at 25% and playing around. But of course not going over like 75% or so in order to protect the tube. Sorry I cannot give any more concrete data, but I bet you can hone in on the right settings rather quickly
Thanks for this, it works fine for me until trying to delete interior lines using the edit paths by node tool, drag-selecting isn't selecting anything. Any ideas ?
@@geopoliticskenya yeah, I don't see why not! In fact, Many of the LED strips you can get can be water-resistant even.... And I think painting the back side could be cool, you would obviously just have to laser the front side instead. That would be cool!
hello! revisited this and it got me wondering. what if the LED lights are not on one side only? i. e. the bottom. would the sign be much brighter? what if it were different colors too? what do you think would be the outcome?
@@geopoliticskenya yeah, you could totally make like a frame that went all the way around and used colors along each side, it would look cool I bet! Def would be brighter engravings.
Raster engrave is like coloring in a picture with a crayon, moving side to side slowly working your way down the image. The vector engraving, i.e. scoring, is like tracing an outline with a black marker on and around your drawing. You can use it to draw the details. It's often way faster than doing the same operation in a raster engraving mode as it's not limited to just side to side. Hope that makes sense. Good luck!
I always want to so some of these, I just don't seem to make it a priority. I made one way back when I first got the laser, but I always wanted to make my own bases. That has been the sticking point. I have time to do the laser part. I never make time for woodworking. I love the second method you used for the sign. Perfect. See you tomorrow? Also, did you see we are touring GT Invention Studio on Thursday?
I love these but avoid making them because I thought it would be a bit more of a hassle. This video was motivating. Also, so unrelated but I have a 2 month old exclusively breastfed baby and I'm watching this at 2am super super tired and that batman clip made me smile. I literally felt my shoulders relaxing 😅
@@Geeksmithing it is!! but it keeps on burning it and the edges are all black, tried different drawings but all the edges become black even when i decrease the power :(
@@hamadaali5687 I have never cut cast acrylic and had it leave black edges, in fact, but can cleanly cut white and clear acrylic with no discoloration whatsoever. It really sounds like it's a different material. Polycarbonate can lead to nasty results, so perhaps you are accidentally using that. 🤷♂️
That's a fantastic idea! Unfortunately, the stock control board does not have variable power that's controlled by software. There are upgrades available for this, but I have not done them yet myself.
@@Geeksmithing So, one last trick up my sleeve. Make a number of smaller chunks at different % levels. Won't be as smooth but would still offer a more even brightness. Might even look cool if you make the various chunks in a pattern to add a depth effect.
tip: use a normal dishwasher soap (thick) and put that over the to be engraved side, this will protect for the engraving getting dirty , and is easily cleaned off ..
@@Geeksmithing you can also use this for the other side if you cut material. since i use this trick I alsways have my air asist on, even when engraving the plexiglass, no more stains . ( when cutting you should have it free from below though to prevent heat stains.
Geeksmithing, My question is about cleaning acrylic plastic as after the protective covering comes off, things happen. I am not a cat person but my wife is. Her cat, jumped up and knocked off a placard I received some time ago, and after attacking it for some evil cat reason, it has a number of very fine scratches, even worse, my better half wiped it with a dry rag like it was dust. I don’t know! Online, “ Mothers” plastic cleaner came up frequently. And thoughts? I thought it was interesting to hear you how work thru shades of graphics to be able to burn in you design. It looks complex. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for this video. I'm planning to use a laser engraver on an acrylic pick guard for a guitar. I'm sorry if you said it in the video and I missed it, but what is the reasoning for engraving on the back of the acrylic sheet?
Hey Matt! It really depends on the look you are going for. The advantage of doing it on the back, is that it allows the surface/front of the acrylic to be slick, reflective and uniform to the touch, as the engraving is on the back, showing thru to the front. But depending on the application, you may want the engraved texture to be more prominent.
Loved it, great work, I'm new with laser, I have a quick question, the power you use for cutting is different from the engraving that's correct ? this power you set during programing or you need to manually set, I'm using the K40 as well. Thank you...
Hey thanks!! Sometimes you will have to set the power differently between engraving and cutting operations, but the vast majority of the time, it will be the same for both. The difference really comes down to the speed of the operation. The cut operation is quite a bit slower that allows you to punch thru the material. Without upgrading the control board, the power is manually set via the dial/control panel before the job starts. The most important thing to remember is not crank up the power on the K40. I'd say to not go over 75% or 15mA as it can damage the tube. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions! 👍🤓
@@Geeksmithing yes i want to make a few but only can find one at a time not like in bulk... And the box site i tried to catch the site as you say it but failed lol. Can you post the site too. Thank you your the best
No, I meant a 3D copy of a picture that looks 3D with in a piece of glass, etc. Such as a one dimensional picture of my Mom & Dad appearing 3D w/in the medium.
Hi love this! Any recommendations for a laser engraver/ cutter for under $300? Maybe on Amazon? Thank you, I just want to make sure the machine can cut and engrave acrylic sheets
Awesome video! Do you know if PET sheets could be used for making this type of sign also? Looking on Amazon they seem to be quite a bit cheaper than the cast acrylic sheets. Thanks
It seems that you can! Just make sure whatever material you use, (as a side note) does not contain vinyl!...That is very dangerous to laser! www.ulsinc.com/materials/pet-film#:~:text=PET%20Film%20Overview,micron%20wavelength%20CO2%20laser
thanks i was wonder I saw some post about using Aquarium store active charcoal and removing the paper first as some think the adhesive on the paper contibutes to lots of the odor. thanks for the replies
hi there bro, I've been trying to engrave some acrylic, but I don't get that "white like etch on it", it seems like im always chewing material, and it looks always transparent. any advice?
@@jolupe That would be my guess of how to explain your issue you are describing. Extruded acrylic will engrave very clear, but also leave behind tiny microfractures at laser areas around the piece as well. Cast acrylic engraves to look a bit frosted, and does not crack.
What file formats can this machine use? I am designing acrylic panels using Autodesk Fusion 360 CAD software and it can export, for example, dxf files. Would these work with this machine?
Is it not enough to ask this question on just one video? I use K40 Whisperer to communicate with the laser and according to their website it does accept DXF for vector engraving and vector cutting but not raster engraving. Checkout scorchworks.com/K40whisperer/k40whisperer.html for more info
Geeksmithing thanks, I didn’t think I had asked on 2 videos. The first post i did seemed to hang and the app crashed so I thought the question hadnt been posted. Sorry!
Hello. Thank you for this video. Quick question, someone said you have to do like water cooling with these lasers? Is that true? Because I have no idea what that actually means lol. And I'm struggling to press the button to buy a laser cutter because I'm overwhelmed 😂
No worries! There can be a lot to them! Yeah, they have a water cooling component to keep the laser tube from overheating. It's basically an aquarium pump in a sealed 5 gal bucket. I have another video on my channel where I discuss what they come with a bit more in detail. Feel free to ask any questions you have!
The K40 style of lasers shown here are great, but can require a bit of tinkering to get them honed in and running well. It's the trade off for them being so cheap. If you want something a bit more turn key, I might suggest a Glowforge. They are a bit more self contained and require less fussing about to get them to do what you want. Here is a referral link to see what they are all about if interested... If you ended up using it's you get some $$$ off the price. glowforge.us/r/KSXLIFLM But again, feel free to ask any questions you have either way!
Just a slight correction, the Raster Engraving Pass should be at 100mm/s. Yay typos! 🤓🙄
hi dude, what were the other settings?
where did u et the base for bb-8
@@mikeslife6874 You can grab them pretty cheaply on AliExpress or eBay. Just search for “LED Lamp Base”.
@@mikeslife6874 it is linked in the description.
get the base for bb-8 i mean
Has to be one of the best tutorials I have seen. Simply explained and made sense. Keep up the awesome work 👍
Thanks very much! Please enjoy another of my videos! 😉
Oh would you look at that, a RUclipsr that’s clear, concise, and to the point. INSTANT subscribe
I try! Thanks! ☺️💪
Very cool signs. The tips on using Inkscape are much appreciated! Keep being awesome, Wes!
Cheers buddy! Thanks!
So if you bought 16' of LED light what do you do with the rest of the 15.5' ? With only one power cord I would assume that 1 strip is all you can use.
Awesome tutorial! I’m in the process of reassembling my laser with a larger bed. Will have to try this, I have a ton of acrylic! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks man! Happy to help! Good luck on your rebuild
Thank you!
This was the best video. Extremely helpful
Thanks!!! Happy to hear that! 🤓👍
Hi! I want to laser etch a 3mm-4mm piece of acrylic. Roughly 17"W x 8"T, I want it to be the face plate for a guitar amplifier head I'm making. I was planning on running LED's inside the head, 360° around the acrylic piece. I was wondering if the piece would illuminate fully, even if it had multiple/crowded etched makings, labels, logos and potentiometers / toggles/ 1/4" mono jacks installed through the acrylic and amp chassis?
Oh cool idea! I think if you did encircle the acrylic, it would have a great chance of being all illuminated, but it's honestly hard to predict until you make the piece. The knobs/ components, etc can block some of the light from various directions, but since you have it coming from all around, it just might work perfect! Hit me up sometime on any of my socials! Best of luck, I'd love to see the progress.
I don't have mA guage just the power level led they come with. What do you think is the power setting for unit with LED power display setting?
I do not know for certain (as I don't have one like that) but I would just recommend trying a modest setting and working up from there in order to not wreck the tube. Maybe 60% power at the time settings recommended in description/ video?
Nice tutorial. Maybe you can help me understand. I am getting conflicting information when watching different YT channels. Some indicate that I need to put a soapy water solution on the where I am engraving and others don't - I didn't see you do this or hear you say it was needed. In each of the videos I am ensuring they are using a CO2 laser and not a diode laser to ensure the information applies to me. I am using a 150W CO2 laser. Is soapy water needed or not? Any insights are appreciated.
While I have never felt the need to use soapy water for mine, I have also heard of people using it. From what I understand it is supposed to reduce the residue/build up that can make a piece of acrylic look cloudy around the engraving. I believe if you have a good air assist/fan extraction system on your laser, you might not need to bother with it. Just give it a try without and see what happens! Sorry it isn't more of a concrete answer for ya.
Good luck!
Great tutorial! I was using this as a test for my new laser tube and was able to get it cut out. Thank you for your detailed explanation using Inkscape and K40 Whisperer!
Hey, that is great! Congrats! Welcome to #teamK40 ! :D
Extremely helpful. Thank you.
This is perfect for my Etsy store. Been looking for a way to make led signs that are inexpensive to sell. Thanks for the tutorial and links. 👍🏼
Sure thing! Good luck!!
When I was repairing aircraft in the USN back in the day "1970's", we had similar item that was on the instrument displays, rather than having a laser engrave it was Plexiglass 1/4" thick painted front and back black, then the plexiglass was engraved with a beveled end mill into the plexiglass, and all the nomenclature was then viable during night flights. Same principle just a different method of reaching the same conclusion.
Oh yeah, that's super cool! I was also in the USN, I worked on E-2C Hawkeyes myself :)
Hi, so 40w cuts transparent acrylic? 3mm or 4 mm you had?
@@RK-qc6fo a CO2 based laser, (including the k40) absolutely cuts clear acrylic.
@@RK-qc6fo 3mm.
Apologies for the late comments and questions .. Please may I ask what software did you edit the image in.. Is this unique to c.o2 cutting can I apply this to diode laser.. Will diode laser using lightburn also know the difference between red and blue.. To cut or engrave.. Thanks for the information thus far
Hi! I used inkscape to do the image editing. You should be able to use it to edit images for use on a diode laser, but as you suspect, the colors might not work the same way as in K40 Whisperer (the laser control software I used)
You can however adopt the same practice of trying to categorize your operations by color to make it easier for you to remember which lines do what. i.e. Red for cutting. blue for vector engrave and black for rastering. In lightburn, it will detect the different colors and split the file into cuts/layers for you. Here you just have to define which colors you want to do what.
Hope that helps!
@@Geeksmithing thank you
You keep tempting me into buying a laser.
I keep trying but I clearly need to be more convincing!!! 🤓😆
bonjour super video .... quel genre de papier as tu utilise pour graver sur plexiglas???? merci
excellent video man. Cheers. I have recently learned that a diode laser cannot cut clear plexiglass/acrylic. Is this true?? I have a Masuter Pro and 20w (5.5 output) laser. I can engrave okay, but it looks as if cutting is out of the question. If any of you know any different, all advise is welcome. Thanks in advance.
After I got my K40 and Glowforge, I have very rarely used my diode laser. It wouldn't surprise me if you had issues, as just cutting cardboard gave me troubles. 😂
@@Geeksmithing :D I've got it dialed in to where it can cut 3mm and 6mm ply (very slowly) but gutted that it can't cut acrylic. That was the joint-main reason I got the thing 🤦
Does the perspex have to be totally clear or will it work with tinted?
That's super cool, nice work! You make it look real easy.
Thanks man! Glad ya like it!:) 👍. It IS real easy! 😜
I’m trying to learn to do this for a Christmas present but laser engravers are expensive! Great tutorial though! I’m going to have to do mine by hand
$400 isnt too bad for a laser engraver, but you gotta make with whatcha got! :) Thanks for watching!
NICE WORK! Is there info on attaching the cord to the lights? Is is just cut the end off the plug and solder?
Thanks! It's just a barrel jack connector that came pre-atteched to the led strip. Didn't require soldering.
@@Geeksmithing What happens when you cut it. How do you attach a new plug?
@@SUNRISE-ADVENTURES good question! There are 12V barrel jack plugs you can get to clip right to the spot you cut the strips apart. No soldering required. Here is a link to such a product on Amazon:
amzn.to/3dIIkVN
@@SUNRISE-ADVENTURES there are of course versions that can be soldered as well if you would prefer.
@@Geeksmithing YES!!! That's what i wanted!!! THANKS!!!
Hello from Puerto Rico!! Just took my k40
Out of the box
😮 good luck!!
Can you share how you cut the birch and the process
Didn't I?
Great video, esp on the InkScape stuff. Liked and subbed
Thanks a bunch! Welcome aboard!
BRILLIANT!
Thanks buddy! ✋
Good tutorial. Thank you for sharing.
Cheers! Hope it helps in some way!
Can you share the cut files? I can't seem to clear the inside of BB8. Thanks in advance.
I honestly don't know if I have them anymore, but I'm happy to try to help you get the results you want! Are those areas showing in K40 Whisperer as black regions? If so, then they should be able engrave with the Raster Engrave function.
Hi great Vid, I assume that you are using 3mm acrylic, it looks like it cuts the outline shape in one pass is this right?
Hi! Yup. Btw, all project materials are linked in description. 😉
Thank you so much bro.. i really appreciate your work..
Happy to help!
Yes, bases and tape ordered!
🥳 Good luck!
The software you are using is both included in the K40, or do you need other special software to up load to the laser. What format does the laser use in cutting, ?? I think you mentioned raster? or can you use other forms of extensions? EPS, DXF, GE3, ......?
The software that comes with K40 is a hacked variant of Corel draw, and it's not very good. I use Inkscape for the design and use K40 Whisperer to communicate/control with the laser. Whisperer prefers SVGs saved from Inkscape as far as file formats go.
Can this cut 4mm thickness Clear Acrylic? My Led Bases have a 4mm slot.
Absolutely!
Hey, can I ask how tall and wide your design can be before the led light doesn't reach using the bb-8 base? Thanks.
Good question. Probably not much wider but could be a bit bigger I think. As you expect, that light can only bounce around but so far.
Great video! The ink scape work alone is worth the price of admission! I've been trying to figure out to get outline cut on something. I just got my k40 set up and I'm having a lot of fun with it.
Thanks man! Yeah! #teamK40!
Just curious, could you just not use Illustrator or Photoshop as well?
@@robertchu7977 Great question! You can certainly generate the image in those programs as well as many others...but the K40 Whisperer program that I use with the K40 laser cutter only accepts files formatted from Inkscape. There is a circuit board that I can replace in the machine that opens up the door to many more options and less restriction.
@@Geeksmithing Cohesion3D board ?
Do you think a TBK 958 A would work I’m kinda new to it and this is the closest thing I think I’ll get to finding an answer in English.
I don't think so, it doesn't seem to be high enough Wattage(power) to cut the acrylic, but perhaps the engraving will be fine. But I don't have experience with that machine.
@@Geeksmithing ok thanks for the input :)
Simply superb
cheers!
Wes you're the Bes-t thanks for sharing this with me can't wait to make some nightlights for my kiddos, instead of the on off switch I think I'll do an inline motion activated switch.
Brilliant! Please tag me when you share it! Would love to see it!
Can someone please help me. I lost my agenda with my settings and for medical reasons I haven't use my laser since December...I forgot a lot😢. I use the same programs and I have a 60W Chinese laser.
I would like the values for RE, VE, VC and the power for each. This is so frustrating. Thank you
How thick must the acrylic be ?
The acrylic used in this project was 1/8" thick.
I have a couple of questions, if I may.. Do you have an equipment list that you sand by?
I noticed you have a glowforge..do you recommend it of is there another machine..
I've been searching for a good tutorial and yours seems to be the best..
For the price, the K40 is tough to beat... but you have to go into it knowing that there likely will be tinkering and fiddling with it a bit to get it to work for you. You will also likely have to add things and upgrade it a bit to make it more user friendly and safer...If you want to avoid the fuss and hassle of all that, a Glowforge is fantastic. It's all self contained and the user experience is quite good. Once you get it setup, you are up and running in 30 minutes.
Hi im new to laser cutting and have a k40 and trying to cut 3mm balti wood but cannot get the settings right to cut... dont know if i have it too low down from laser as even engraving doesnt show on first passes. and seems like it takes many passes to try and cut thru it think nearly 10 times possibly more.. its started to burn the wood and due to burn it made part to snap. I really need help. Please.
First thing to do is make sure the mirrors are aligned. Having them not properly aligned can sap power away. Also do not ever max out power setting when cutting. It can damage the tube.
3mm should not be much trouble and be able to cut in 2 passes max.
@@Geeksmithing see i don't know whether the holding table is too far away from laser... as on your video and another RUclipsRs your tables are close to extraction there is a good 3 to 4inch drop to mine.. i do think my mirrors are out of alignment as did test shots and far away and up close are hitting slightly different spots 😕 i was there nearly 9hrs trying to adjust them too 😪
The distance from the last mirror to the workpiece can definitely be a big factor. Let me gather up some links that will be of help to ya!:)
You definitely need to get the mirrors aligned and there are several good videos and tutorials out there for that. There is also the Ramp test, to help determine the proper distance where you need to have your workpiece to obtain proper focus:
ruclips.net/video/iKpONnJru1w/видео.html
Wow, such a pretty result!
Thank you! Cheers!
I have an outline of pikachu but the k40 wont show it as vector. I Tried raster engrave at 20mm /3pwr but it didn't engrave. I originally used 10 pwr but it was leaving globs of plastic where it would engrave. Should I use blue or navy blue when selecting my image in inkscape? thanks
When raster engraving the outline, you can only use a pure blue, (0, 0, 255 on the RGB values) else it will read it as black and can only be raster engraved.
If you allow, what is the name of this machine per minute at 4.45, since I do not see a laser beam and what is the thickness of the acrylic that you are working with
It's a K40 laser, the beam is not visible within the visible light spectrum for humans. It is within the infrared range. And the acrylic is 3mm.
Great video! Instead of clear acrylic, what can be the alternative materials? Cheaper than acrylic.
I don't know any other materials that have similar properties that can be engraved and cut as easily
I don't know any other materials that have similar properties that can be engraved and cut as easily
@@Geeksmithing You are right. What do you think about tempered glass? Did you have any experience?
@@gokhanisler3740 unfortunately not
Hello, i use lightburn and laser 40 watt, but not k40.
May i ask, is 3mA same as 3% on power setting?
Hmmm.... Great question.... I would guess it would be more like 20%....🤷♂️. I consider 15mA my machines max(100%) that I never try too often..... Hopefully that gets you in the range to fine tune it the rest of the way. Great question though!!!
@@Geeksmithing well, i didn't think that my question will be answered because of this video just uploaded over a year.
I really say thank you for ur answer. I have been trying 20% and 15% (speed 100mm/s). Actually 20% is very detailed+contrast but its look like to deep for engraving photo. i have not test with led, so i dont know it is good or not. I hope i can make it as soon as possible.
I hope you will make more videos about engraving or cutting.
Btw nice video, i learn much from the video for my job
@@maspaijo2334 I try to answer ever question :) I am happy to help, that is great that it has helped you so much!!☺️ To make these LED signs work, it doesn't take much of an engraving at all. If it is too deep, it will actually prevent as much light from continuing up to the rest of the design. Good luck, and thanks for the support! 👍🤓
@@Geeksmithing yes, thank you!
great video I wonder how white colored acrylic would look
I don't think it would do much, as the light wouldn't bounce around very far in there. But only one way to find out!
or flame pattern leds to make sign have a burning effect
@@Geeksmithing if it does not then cut a pair of clear and white and sandwich then together with white as the backing. I noticed looking at the finished product it had a slight distaction because you could see the stuff behind it. I have a k40 that i want to start using but it cant kick this 3d design/print addiction
I’m a little late but I was wondering would it be possible to make this with the ortur laser master 2 20w? Thanks again for all the great and useful content
If it can cut 1/8" acrylic....
I love the video, I have a 40w co2 lazer, I guess its a K40, but i dont know what the current rating would be as mine is in %, any help on that would be great..
Hmmm. I don't have that exact info, but I would just suggest starting with a scrap piece and at 25% and playing around. But of course not going over like 75% or so in order to protect the tube. Sorry I cannot give any more concrete data, but I bet you can hone in on the right settings rather quickly
Thanks for this, it works fine for me until trying to delete interior lines using the edit paths by node tool, drag-selecting isn't selecting anything. Any ideas ?
Sorry, just now seeing this... are you still having these issues?
@@Geeksmithing No worries pal, yes sorted now, thanks.
Excellent!
Hi, have a question, the base doesnt have a support to avoid the acrylic get on the lightsn the acrylic goes all over the strip light?
huh
Can I do with with my ortur 25w laser ?
🤷♂️ not sure if you can cut it. Might take a bunch of passes
So what speed and power you use for cutting and engraving? Also how thick is your acrylic?
Wow I love that he liked your comment without responding to it.
so, can this be used outdoors?
I'm thinking painting the negative space on the backside to make it visible outdoors during the day
can it be possible?
As long as it doesn't rain on it😆
@@Geeksmithing cool, but if it's waterproof/watertight it's good to go i suppose
@@geopoliticskenya yeah, I don't see why not! In fact, Many of the LED strips you can get can be water-resistant even.... And I think painting the back side could be cool, you would obviously just have to laser the front side instead. That would be cool!
hello!
revisited this and it got me wondering. what if the LED lights are not on one side only? i. e. the bottom. would the sign be much brighter?
what if it were different colors too? what do you think would be the outcome?
@@geopoliticskenya yeah, you could totally make like a frame that went all the way around and used colors along each side, it would look cool I bet! Def would be brighter engravings.
Is there a difference between Raster engrave vs Line engrave? Thanks, I just got my K40
Raster engrave is like coloring in a picture with a crayon, moving side to side slowly working your way down the image. The vector engraving, i.e. scoring, is like tracing an outline with a black marker on and around your drawing. You can use it to draw the details. It's often way faster than doing the same operation in a raster engraving mode as it's not limited to just side to side. Hope that makes sense. Good luck!
@@Geeksmithing Yes it does, just need to do material test for the clear acrylic. Thanks I appreciate your time
I always want to so some of these, I just don't seem to make it a priority. I made one way back when I first got the laser, but I always wanted to make my own bases. That has been the sticking point. I have time to do the laser part. I never make time for woodworking. I love the second method you used for the sign. Perfect. See you tomorrow? Also, did you see we are touring GT Invention Studio on Thursday?
Thanks Chad! See you Thursday! We will get in town around 2-3pm.
Geeksmithing awe. The tour at GT is at 1pm. You would love that place.
I've been wanting to do something similar to this, but using either a glass bottle or a block of glass
Oh, that's an interesting idea... 🤔
I love these but avoid making them because I thought it would be a bit more of a hassle. This video was motivating.
Also, so unrelated but I have a 2 month old exclusively breastfed baby and I'm watching this at 2am super super tired and that batman clip made me smile. I literally felt my shoulders relaxing 😅
😊
Glad it could help!🤓👍
If you buy the premade base, it's almost too easy...😆
Question......Do you polish the acrylic along the edge where the LED's are?
Nope, the raw lasered surface is practically polished
can i use a 2mm acrylic board on this DIY project. or is it too thin ?
Yeah, you should be able to. Just make sure it is "Cast" acrylic.
@@Geeksmithing it is!! but it keeps on burning it and the edges are all black, tried different drawings but all the edges become black even when i decrease the power :(
@@hamadaali5687 I have never cut cast acrylic and had it leave black edges, in fact, but can cleanly cut white and clear acrylic with no discoloration whatsoever. It really sounds like it's a different material. Polycarbonate can lead to nasty results, so perhaps you are accidentally using that. 🤷♂️
Super helpful and easy to understand/follow along. Thank you!
Thanks!!!!
Super cool. I know what my next project will be now.
Surprised you haven't made one already!
Hi. What is the thickness of acryl plate for round base?
All acrylic used was 3mm (1/8")
@@Geeksmithing, is the width of nest the same?
Is it possible to vary the etch depth as you go from bottom to top? If so, you could use that to keep the relative brightness the same.
That's a fantastic idea! Unfortunately, the stock control board does not have variable power that's controlled by software. There are upgrades available for this, but I have not done them yet myself.
@@Geeksmithing Could you vary the height of the whole laser head?
@@pabeader1941 nope. It has no mechanical movement in the Z axis. Some people also add a Z axis table to add that as well.
@@Geeksmithing So, one last trick up my sleeve. Make a number of smaller chunks at different % levels. Won't be as smooth but would still offer a more even brightness. Might even look cool if you make the various chunks in a pattern to add a depth effect.
@@pabeader1941 yeah, you could definitely do that!;) A banded look could be neat!
I still cannot get my k40 to CUT very thin Lexan (Clear Acrylic Sheet) - it's THIN - but i can't cut it.
Are you able to cut anything else? Like hardwood, i.e. cherry, or baltic birch plywood? Definitely should be able to.
What program did you use to bring in the picture and do the edit?
Listed in video description.
I always forget to hit the "show more" tab. Thanks
@@jbouza09 No worries! ;) Best of luck!!
tip: use a normal dishwasher soap (thick) and put that over the to be engraved side,
this will protect for the engraving getting dirty , and is easily cleaned off ..
Oh nice! Thanks!
@@Geeksmithing you can also use this for the other side if you cut material. since i use this trick I alsways have my air asist on, even when engraving the plexiglass, no more stains . ( when cutting you should have it free from below though to prevent heat stains.
Hey bro I have one question.. What about the ventilation? Did it smoke a lot ... Can I use it in my room or I need to do it outside?
The laser has an exhaust fan that vents it outside.
Geeksmithing, My question is about cleaning acrylic plastic as after the protective covering comes off, things happen. I am not a cat person but my wife is. Her cat, jumped up and knocked off a placard I received some time ago, and after attacking it for some evil cat reason, it has a number of very fine scratches, even worse, my better half wiped it with a dry rag like it was dust. I don’t know! Online, “ Mothers” plastic cleaner came up frequently. And thoughts? I thought it was interesting to hear you how work thru shades of graphics to be able to burn in you design. It looks complex. Thanks for the info.
Haha cats. Whaddya gonna do?! 😹
I unfortunately don't have a go to solution for that... I would think Windex would be fine.
whats the biggest wood/acrylic u can fit in there??
Hi! I can fit a sheet that is about 14" × 12".
The engraving area is a bit smaller at 13"×9" or so.
thx thats sounds perfect 👌
Thank you for this video. I'm planning to use a laser engraver on an acrylic pick guard for a guitar. I'm sorry if you said it in the video and I missed it, but what is the reasoning for engraving on the back of the acrylic sheet?
Hey Matt! It really depends on the look you are going for. The advantage of doing it on the back, is that it allows the surface/front of the acrylic to be slick, reflective and uniform to the touch, as the engraving is on the back, showing thru to the front. But depending on the application, you may want the engraved texture to be more prominent.
Hope that makes sense. :)
@@Geeksmithing It does. Thank you!
Loved it, great work, I'm new with laser, I have a quick question, the power you use for cutting is different from the engraving that's correct ? this power you set during programing or you need to manually set, I'm using the K40 as well. Thank you...
Hey thanks!! Sometimes you will have to set the power differently between engraving and cutting operations, but the vast majority of the time, it will be the same for both. The difference really comes down to the speed of the operation. The cut operation is quite a bit slower that allows you to punch thru the material. Without upgrading the control board, the power is manually set via the dial/control panel before the job starts. The most important thing to remember is not crank up the power on the K40. I'd say to not go over 75% or 15mA as it can damage the tube. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions! 👍🤓
Could someone explain how it can cut transparent material please?
It's not 100 % optically transparent and thus resists the beam
🤷♂️🤔
i am new to this trying to figure it out. Instructions are easy to follow,, but i don't know how to delete the nodes, could you help out. TIA
You should be able to select them and press delete on your keyboard
Why do you choose to vector engrave over raster engraving?
Graphics that are made up of line art work really well with vector engrave and it is much faster to complete.
Plus they are super fun to watch!! 🤓😆👍😁
What thickness of plexi can you cut with this machine ?
Up to 1/4" just may take a couple passes
Wow so this can CUT 1/8" acrylic? How thick can it cut?
Sure, that's what I did in the project video! :) It can cut up to 1/4" , just may take a couple of passes.
Great video.... I got the k40 without the meter :( . But where you get the end connector to the power supply i can't seam to find them?
Hello! Are you referring to a power connector for the custom LED sign or the K40? 🤷♂️
@@Geeksmithing yes i want to make a few but only can find one at a time not like in bulk... And the box site i tried to catch the site as you say it but failed lol. Can you post the site too. Thank you your the best
LED not the K40
@@MrGenocide101 Makercase.com is the website for boxes
Looks awesome nice work Wes. Making Geeks Logo Next?
Thanks man! Absolutely! I bet you guys could sell a ton of things using these bases and techniques at your shows too btw. ;)
I'm looking at pricing right now
can I make a 3d copy of a picture with this machine?
Um... Not exactly what you mean by 3d in this context. I mean, you can engrave photos on things. ,🤷♂️
No, I meant a 3D copy of a picture that looks 3D with in a piece of glass, etc. Such as a one dimensional picture of my Mom & Dad appearing 3D w/in the medium.
@@daniholberton4740 no, this cannot do anything inside of glass or any other material. It's only on the surface.
Hi love this! Any recommendations for a laser engraver/ cutter for under $300? Maybe on Amazon? Thank you, I just want to make sure the machine can cut and engrave acrylic sheets
Unfortunately, I don't believe there is such a machine....
You can check Sculpfun models
hello i canot erase the interior of the design please help
Awesome video! Do you know if PET sheets could be used for making this type of sign also? Looking on Amazon they seem to be quite a bit cheaper than the cast acrylic sheets. Thanks
It seems that you can! Just make sure whatever material you use, (as a side note) does not contain vinyl!...That is very dangerous to laser! www.ulsinc.com/materials/pet-film#:~:text=PET%20Film%20Overview,micron%20wavelength%20CO2%20laser
How long did it take to engrave this? And what laser machine would you recommend for a small business?(amateur). Thank you
It has been a while but I would say, like 10 minutes. The K40 style is a nice entry point if you can find one nowadays.
Hello SIr
when I engrave on acrylic , it deosnt leave the white finish on it , it like a clear finish, any help ?
thank you
With cast acrylic? That sounds like different type of acrylic
@@Geeksmithing I have it already engraved by a local laser cutter and it did it just fine, I thought it was my machine has a problem or smthng
@@SAILxKamal if extruded acrylic was used instead of cast acrylic, it can cause similar issues to what you described
Resize page to content, is that something you have to do for the k40? I use glowforge but never do this step
I do it to basic just crop it easily, and ensure the origin of image corresponds with where the laser starts it's operation.
These are sweet Wes!
Thanks Dave!
Awesome nice job.
Whats bit used?
Photons.
is there much smoke when cutting acrylic?
All the smoke goes out the exhaust system, but it doesn't smell awesome.
thanks i was wonder I saw some post about using Aquarium store active charcoal and removing the paper first as some think the adhesive on the paper contibutes to lots of the odor. thanks for the replies
@@jgarmer I have lasered it with no paper as well... It still stinks. 😆
@@jgarmer I have used that active charcoal technique on my AnyCubic Photon Resin printer and it definitely helps. I may try that with the laser.👍
Where I get this protecting paper?
hi there bro, I've been trying to engrave some acrylic, but I don't get that "white like etch on it", it seems like im always chewing material, and it looks always transparent. any advice?
Are you certain that you are attempting to engrave onto "cast" acrylic?
@@Geeksmithing not sure. The sheet I got doesn't say anything except for acrilyc sheet lol
@@jolupe That would be my guess of how to explain your issue you are describing. Extruded acrylic will engrave very clear, but also leave behind tiny microfractures at laser areas around the piece as well. Cast acrylic engraves to look a bit frosted, and does not crack.
www.epiloglaser.com/how-it-works/applications/laser-cutting-acrylic/
@@Geeksmithing thats exactly how it looks, clear and crisp. Thanks
What is the minimum power for this application?
What file formats can this machine use? I am designing acrylic panels using Autodesk
Fusion 360 CAD software and it can export, for example, dxf files. Would these work with this machine?
Is it not enough to ask this question on just one video? I use K40 Whisperer to communicate with the laser and according to their website it does accept DXF for vector engraving and vector cutting but not raster engraving. Checkout scorchworks.com/K40whisperer/k40whisperer.html for more info
Geeksmithing thanks, I didn’t think I had asked on 2 videos. The first post i did
seemed to hang and the app crashed so I thought the question hadnt been posted. Sorry!
Hello. Thank you for this video. Quick question, someone said you have to do like water cooling with these lasers? Is that true? Because I have no idea what that actually means lol. And I'm struggling to press the button to buy a laser cutter because I'm overwhelmed 😂
No worries! There can be a lot to them! Yeah, they have a water cooling component to keep the laser tube from overheating. It's basically an aquarium pump in a sealed 5 gal bucket. I have another video on my channel where I discuss what they come with a bit more in detail. Feel free to ask any questions you have!
The K40 style of lasers shown here are great, but can require a bit of tinkering to get them honed in and running well. It's the trade off for them being so cheap. If you want something a bit more turn key, I might suggest a Glowforge. They are a bit more self contained and require less fussing about to get them to do what you want. Here is a referral link to see what they are all about if interested... If you ended up using it's you get some $$$ off the price.
glowforge.us/r/KSXLIFLM
But again, feel free to ask any questions you have either way!
How thick is your acrylic? 3mm?
Yep, 1/8"
Do you have a link to the file for the box?
No, it was easily generated by the website that I show in the video. I don't have available anywhere for download
What software are you using to make the image? Thanks for the great video.
Inkscape!:)
I already have Coreldraw. Can I use that as my graphic software instead of Inkscape? Thanks!
Not if you plan on using K40 whisperer
K40 whisperer was made with inkscape in mind. You can still design in corel or anything, but it still must run thru inkscape first