This is a great tool for hobbyist, people that just work on their own cars. It's a great way to *test the waters*, for those people *thinking* about getting into detailing either full-time or part-time. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ Especially when I found it on sale for $49 a couple of years ago. I was preparing my car for a ceramic coating. I used Nano Resin MX and it still looks great today
Tried to do this at the end of this previous season, stripped the head of the screw just like you said. Didn't have anything to get it out (tried the rubber band and the other diy type solutions, nothing worked), so I just kept using it till I was done. Just today I just got an easy out, time to try it again. Coincidental timing on the video...
Yeah, cheap machine screws and worn-out Phillips screwdrivers are a recipe for disaster. Somewhere in the comments a person recommended what he infers is a super high-quality brand for Phillips screwdrivers, just do a little digging if you think you want one. I'll just stick to what I have and use common sense. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Sorry to hear this, I don't have carpel tunnel or any damage to the nerves in my hands after decades of running power tools. Knock on paint. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Good video and informative. On a different video, one gentleman said he used a heat gun to remove all grease. (A bit overkill) Good work, and thank you.
Must consider ear plugs or ear muffs during multiple hour polishing. A Harbor Freight budget magnetic parts cup works great for holding on to those loose screws. If your regreasing your unit like in this video; when you get to the point of removing the old grease and putting in the new I would put on a pair of Harbor Freight light duty disposable vinyl gloves and then discard them before the rest of the reassemble. I appreciate the time he took to make this valuable video . Typically most manufacturers aren't going to supply proper greasing because they want you to have to buy another one after the first one fails . 😅
Thank you sir, the key is having a wrench like I shared that will fit inside the metal shroud housing and also make sure the tip on your Phillips screwdriver is in good shape, you don't want to strip-out the screws during disassembly. -Mike Phillips
Agree, but sometimes when you're shooting LIVE, you are focused on a lot of different moving parts. Next time. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ 3:53 OR the wrench that you just showed fits perfectly on the center hub nut and could be used to hold everything from moving while you loosen the Phillips screws, rather than marring things up by jabbing a Flat-head screwdriver in there.
Maybe. You *MIGHT* be able to get the Channel Locks in there to hold the underlying component while breaking the machine screws loose, but it would be a tight fit. Instead, I just muscled through it. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
HF OEM lube is like Vaseline. Same should be done for their cheap model angle grinders! I remember their early offerings of Chicago Electric angle grinders were so poorly made, it destroyed itself upon first use. No ball bearings, just a dry brass bushing! No a spit of grease. Crazy. The latest ones are OK for their price.
Thank you, that's what I try to do in all my videos, how-to articles and car and boat detailing classes. So nice to read *kind words*, instead of negative comments. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
All the popular long stroke polishers would NOT require this neither would any of the FLEX BEAST tools. I actually show this in my review for the Harbor Freight Hercules Forced Rotation Polisher. I also show the inside of the FLEX BEAST in this video. I've included the link below. *Which Forced Rotation Polisher Is BETTER? Harbor Freight Hercules vs. Flex XC 3401 VRG* ruclips.net/video/AV5edKszDEU/видео.html Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Even the $300.00/$500.00 polishers all need this grease swap. I've had the Milwaukee M18 series, Adams Swirl Killers, Torq, older Griot's Garage, DeWalt cordless, and they all, for some unknown reason, chose to use this garbage grease. Not sure what Rupes use. It's not just the entry-level polishers. Some say the swap can affect the warranty?? Thanks for this video.
I doubt the grease swap would void the warranty, my experience is when you return a tool to Harbor Freight, there's really no questions asked, they just let you swap for the identical tool. Most of the people you'll deal with are simply employees, they're not there to investigate each tool and tool return. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing Harbor Freight doesn't care. I was thinking Milwaukee might since they return the same tool back to you when you use their warranty. Thanks, Mike.
All polishers are different, so it would be a case-by-case situation. The only way to know for sure would be to look at a disassembly diagram or take the tool apart. All the popular long stroke polishers would NOT require this neither would any of the FLEX BEAST tools. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Good Dr., there is a very high probability the OEM grease is silicone, not lithium. Further, the grease you used is a lithium complex, and uses a heavy base oil. The problem using that type of grease in this application besides poor lubrication is oil bleed from the grease, which you don’t want dripping on the pad or wax. There are very specific greases for this application and if you want additional info, send me a PM or an email address and I will be happy to assist you like you help all of us!
Thanks Ron, but for the most part, I have a few of these in the shop for our students to try out while taking one of our classes. Me? I'm a rotary guy and for orbital polishers, I use the FLEX BEAST. I ain't got no time for Brain Drain using free spinning random orbital polishers like this HF polisher. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing My friend has a Flex but I think it's a Supra? Flex . Has Anyone used the cordless model of the Beast? Wondering how it compares to the corded model and how the batteries hold up too.
Yeah, that's beyond my skill level and just as important, my interest level. I normally use the FLEX cordless rotary polisher and the FLEX BEAST. I don't have time for any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher and the brain drain that comes with them. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I clean and regrease every new tool with moving parts right out of the box and regular intervals. use a high molybdenum content grease, and sintered parts will last far longer.
You always need to use a solvent to dissolve old grease before adding new grease to prevent failure. Grease compatibility is very complicated. It’s possible to have same type of grease with different brand incompatible with each other. When two incompatible grease mixed it’s either it will turn to a liquid or hard solid. 😂 Anything excessive is bad.
Great advice and everyone reading this into the future, consider what @w0lvez1 recommends. Me? It's an inexpensive tool that won't see much use in our shop because we use mostly FLEX tools. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Great advice. Normally what I would do is not only replace them but share the exact size and thread of the machine screw and even a picture of the packaging to make it super easy for others to take your advice. But in this video, because most stores that will carry the specific machine screws needed are at least 6 miles away, I just shared another valuable tip, and that is to simply - be sure to use a Phillips head screwdriver in new condition and of course, press down hard when breaking the machine screws loose and then don't over tighten. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
No, I tightened until snug and then a tick more and stopped. In the last 40+ years of running multiple types and brands of polishers, having screws loosen that I've tightened has been the least of my worries, but great tip for others to consider. Normally, I tighten bolts down until they strip and then back them off a half turn. (Just kidding) Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ I Always use a fresh #2 Phillips and those ‘soft metal screws’ strip soooooo easily. I packed a Maxshine with hi-temp grease, Every screw was a hardened machine screw. Oh well, it wasn’t $60 dollars either. Thanks for the great video. 👍👍
You are correct, the terminology escaped me while concentrating on both the action and speaking to the camera. Thank you for chiming in and also for watching. -Mike Phillips
To be honest, I've never seen the need to do this to the PC and I've never tried to take one this far apart. I've been using the Porter Cable since the 1980's, back when both Barry Meguiar's and Richard Griot introduced the Porter Cable or PC for short to the car detailing world. And I've NEVER had a problem with the probable hundreds of PCs I've used. I had 24 of these tools for my classes when I worked at Autogeek. It *used* to be the first polisher I would start the class out with because it's so simple to use. But feel free to take yours apart and please come back and update this RUclips video messages with what you find out. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
If the grease that whoever uses is too thick it will not stay on the gears and will be stuck to the walls of the case and stop lubricating the grease needs to flow like the type of Grease that's in a CV axle boot that way it can stay moving around back onto the gears themselves
Redline CV2, a grease made specifically for CV joints, is an NLGI #2, just like the red and tacky stuff used here. Now, a tripod CV joint often specs an NLGI #1. But people often use NLGI #2 there, without significant consequence. I don't think it's gonna matter much here.
I still have the one they had before all the cordless tools hit. Bought 2 of the red ones, and neither has failed me or my dad at all. Its quiet but does buzz pretty hard.I just figured that was normal operation. Has anyone used the forced rotation one yet? Think I need one of those too. would think it will cut quite a bit more than a loose DA one would
See my review for the Harbor Freight forced rotation copy of the FLEX BEAST here, ruclips.net/video/itlXM8LOWAw/видео.html Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Ha ha, I was dying on camera! Sad thing is, I had a brand-new FLEX cordless drill/screwdriver. It's okay though, out of all the things I do in life, I find it a tick on the relaxing side to use hand tools - by hand. LOL Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Of course, my go-to orbital is the FLEX BEAST - I just made this video for those that go low-cost alternative. Thanks for the safety tip, but more important, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillip
Someone told me 00 grade grease is even more appropriate than that #2 grade grease? That it’s about viscosity not fancy brands or colors? I guess #2 grade doesn’t flow very well? It sets like peanut butter and just stays in one spot? 00 grade is thinner, more like apple sauce and comes in constant contact with the gears, it’s what’s actually recommended for gear cases, gearboxes? What do you guys think about using 00 grade viscosity grease vs #2 grade viscosity grease?
Very good point, i have used 0, 1 and 2 grease. If you have an electric unit, 1 or even 2 NLGI will be ok the unit has the power for the slightly thicker grease. If you have a battery unit i would use the 0 or 1 viscosity NLGI grease so it doesn't load up the battery motor too much. Anything more and i think you will cause the motors too heat over.
Definitely feel free to do your due research and then pick the grease that will match your wishes best. To be honest, about the only time I use these types of tools is when I'm teaching classes, and one of the students wants to test this tool out. Besides that, most of my car and boat detailing classes use rotary polishers and *GEAR-DRIVEN* orbital polishers as both these tools are faster and there's no *Brain Drain* while doing paint correction. Brain Drain is where you mark the side of the backing plate to make it easier for your eyes to see and monitor pad rotation. This means if it's going to take you 4-5 hours to COMPOND an 2018 Honda 4-Door Accord, you're going to be *LOOKING* at the backing plate this entire time and this is what I call Brain Drain. I don't do Brain Drain and I certainly don't teach others to do Brain Drain. LOL Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@robertoduranos5196 very good points that are often overlooked. I am looking for a synthetic NLGI 1 grease. Amsoil and Schaeffer's have greases that tick those boxes.
I'm kind of a FLEX cordless Rotary Polisher and BEAST guy, we just made this video because a lot of people buy this tool as their first entry tool into the car detailing world. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Instead of just the right size channel locks, couldn't you just use a socket wrench on the spindle nut? The same hex head you use the the narrow spindle locking wrench on to get the backing plate off. But instead of using the narrow open end wrench, use an actual socket (backing plate already removed, socket will easily fit)
I don't think that will work, but a person could try. The BIG PICTURE point is in order to remove the spindle assembly, you simply need to find a way to secure the spindle assembly to lock-it-up. I used a screwdriver and no animals were hurt. Did the job, put the tool back together and moved on with life. To be honest, I never use this type of tool as I own numerous FLEX BEASTS, Supa BEASTS and CBEASTS and I don't waste time with any brand of free spinning, random orbital polishers, except sometimes, the Porter Cable 7424XP. Short stroke beats long stroke any day on any car. But GEAR-DRIVEN orbitals beat any free spinning, random orbital polisher no matter what the orbit stroke. -Mike Phillips
I learned from mistake, you can't add too much grease, it increases the load on the tool, in my case, it caused the motor windings to fail in short circuit, due to excess of very thick grease.
Agree. In hindsight, I packed in too much grease. The good news is, we hardly ever use these tools and these *"types"* of tools for our car and boat detailing classes. Instead, we put a lot of emphasis on gear-driven orbitals and then there's no need to replace grease and even better, with a gear-driven orbital, there's *ZERO* pad stalling and *ZERO Brain Drain*. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
you should let it run for 15min then you will know, the temp will be damn burning hot! is because you put too much! cause I tried that before... more grease sure reduce the noise but increase the heat!
I have the same DA & will use either one of the Schaffer's grease or by Renewable Lubricants since they are both known to have the highest Antimony content in them which will really quiet these gears.
Thanks for sharing. I think I mentioned that using a *"known"* quality backing plate could remove vibration and of course, it only makes sense. The backing plate is at the center of all the mass rotating and oscillating and the more perfectly it is balanced, the smoother the tool will feel, especially if polishing or sanding for hours. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I've done this swap twice and it makes the tool more quiet and smoother to hold. Some people will do the grease swap while others will not. Something for everyone! Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
It did sound louder on the video. But as you heard him say, its the annoying high pitched whine and associated vibes that are problematic, and both of those are difficult to capture on video. This isn't the first I've heard of someone doing this mod with great success (just the best diy on the process, so well done!) With so many having success, you know it works, even if the before after sound demo didn't seem especially impressive.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 - Could be sometime in the future, Yancy and I will try again to show the before and after difference, but I'll have to either borrow or purchase a different tool as both of the Harbor Freight DAs I have in the shop have both been upgraded to the new grease. -Mike
Ding dang! I wish you could have watched during this LIVE broadcast and then you could have made your suggestion in real-time. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Replacing the grease does nothing for vibration. Cheap tools vibrate more because they don't bother matching the weight of the pad/backing plate combo to the weight of the counterweight. They just slap together parts that were never meant to work together. It's not hard to fix this yourself by weighing your backing plate and pad, and then trying different combos till you eliminate the vibration. In situations where the counterweight is too heavy you can add some heavy washers to the plate or use a heavier pad or both. When the counterweight is too light you can try to find a lighter backing plate or lighter pads. It's not rocket science.
They don’t want to improve the device because that would suggest higher cost lube and material to make it…thus they have to charge more for the device but they don’t want to increase prices to at say competitive so if the they improve it that way they loose millions of dollars yearly by doing that.
Just Buy Milwaukee or Makita from the Start and You won't have those Cheap Tool Problems and Your Tools will last Dramatically longer and Parts will always be available in the USA if You eventually have problems. You get what You pay for if You do Your Home work First.
Of course you're correct but keep in mind, some people buy a ROLEX and some people buy a TIMEX - there's something for everyone and every budget. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Bauer motors are junk. I purchased a Bauer grinder that burned up in minutes. I have a sears craftsman grinder I’ve used for 30 years. It’s just slowing down now.
Don't use a high pressure or extreme pressure grease containing sulphur on stuff that's yellow it will destroy the yellow metals even with moderate use in a short amount of time.
Not really exposing anything, just showing how to make an improvement. Keep in mind, a LOT of people just *STARTING OUT* will often times opt for a less expensive tool and then *AFTER* they discover they either *LOVE* detailing, then they can always upgrade to better, faster working tools. I personally use the BEAST for about 95% of all my orbital work, that and a rotary polisher will tackle most cars. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Not sure what you're talking about Tom? I normally use FLEX power tools for all my work, and they are the primary brand of tools for my car and boat detailing classes. BECAUSE a lot of people, especially anyone just getting into detailing, the low-cost HF polisher is a good start. So, I'm just sharing something that will help new detailers. I bought it to make the video and for my students to be able to test out the tool before making up their mind which tool to buy. It's a *Try before you buy* format that works well for classes. I also have RUPES, DeWALT, Griot's Garage, Milwaukie, for the students to test out.
@ Great informative video. Grade two grease contains more thickener than lube oil. The gears have to push the thickener around in a small space causing heat. If you use a grade one grease , you’ll lubricate with more oil. But still, too much grease in a small space isn’t helpful.
@@TheBeastKane See it how you want, I don't see it as a mod. Also, you will likely find your life much more fulfilling if you learn to express your opinions using respect and without resorting to name calling.
Im betting that external bearing would be of poor quality and dry of lubrication which is visible on the outside of the hub would be contributing to noise
Could be, like I mentioned above, To be honest, about the only time I use these types of tools is when I'm teaching classes, and one of the students wants to test this tool out. Besides that, most of my car and boat detailing classes use rotary polishers and GEAR-DRIVEN orbital polishers as both these tools are faster and there's no Brain Drain while doing paint correction. Brain Drain is where you mark the side of the backing plate to make it easier for your eyes to see and monitor pad rotation. This means if it's going to take you 4-5 hours to COMPOND an 2018 Honda 4-Door Accord, you're going to be LOOKING at the backing plate this entire time and this is what I call Brain Drain. I don't do Brain Drain and I certainly don't teach others to do Brain Drain. LOL Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Did this to the $30 sander/polisher from harbor freight then proceed to sand 2 full cars and a semi truck it never stopped 🙌
Yup, 8mm orbit stroke makes fast work of sanding anything down. Thanks for sharing, and thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Thanks Mike, I don’t use my Bauer often but this gives me an excuse to play in the garage, lol!
This is a great tool for hobbyist, people that just work on their own cars. It's a great way to *test the waters*, for those people *thinking* about getting into detailing either full-time or part-time.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ Especially when I found it on sale for $49 a couple of years ago. I was preparing my car for a ceramic coating. I used Nano Resin MX and it still looks great today
Best video I have seen on the subject. Thank you!
Wow that's a really nice compliment as there are already a few good videos on the topic.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I've done similar repairs to my yard tools. I use thin coats of silglide or lithium, whichever was initially there preferred.
I like how bro is old school, just do it 🔥
Exactly. *_just do it_*
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Tried to do this at the end of this previous season, stripped the head of the screw just like you said. Didn't have anything to get it out (tried the rubber band and the other diy type solutions, nothing worked), so I just kept using it till I was done. Just today I just got an easy out, time to try it again. Coincidental timing on the video...
Yeah, cheap machine screws and worn-out Phillips screwdrivers are a recipe for disaster. Somewhere in the comments a person recommended what he infers is a super high-quality brand for Phillips screwdrivers, just do a little digging if you think you want one. I'll just stick to what I have and use common sense.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Ty Mike. Had carpal Tunnel surgery today so once I heal up I’ll be doing this to my unit
Sorry to hear this, I don't have carpel tunnel or any damage to the nerves in my hands after decades of running power tools. Knock on paint.
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Good video and informative. On a different video, one gentleman said he used a heat gun to remove all grease. (A bit overkill) Good work, and thank you.
Wow! Another nice comment instead of more expert advice on how to do something. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Wonderful!!!!
I use Amsoil Multipurpose synthetic grease
Must consider ear plugs or ear muffs during multiple hour polishing. A Harbor Freight budget magnetic parts cup works great for holding on to those loose screws. If your regreasing your unit like in this video; when you get to the point of removing the old grease and putting in the new I would put on a pair of Harbor Freight light duty disposable vinyl gloves and then discard them before the rest of the reassemble. I appreciate the time he took to make this valuable video . Typically most manufacturers aren't going to supply proper greasing because they want you to have to buy another one after the first one fails . 😅
Nice input, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I have heard this mod can even benefit more expensive polishers like Rupes. Good video thanks!
Most tools you cannot *EASILY* disassemble to do the grease swap.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Thanks, I just purchased one of them. Much appreciated!
Thank you for the information! I will be doing this mod to my machine!
Thank you sir, the key is having a wrench like I shared that will fit inside the metal shroud housing and also make sure the tip on your Phillips screwdriver is in good shape, you don't want to strip-out the screws during disassembly.
-Mike Phillips
Over filled
Heat causes the grease to release its oil to lubricate parts
Thanks for sharing your insights.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
That is not what causes separation. Regardless lets say it does separate... The oil is still trapped, doing its job.
Thanks for the video on replacing the gear grease. For safety it is always best to unplug tools before disassembling them.
Agree, but sometimes when you're shooting LIVE, you are focused on a lot of different moving parts. Next time.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ 3:53 OR the wrench that you just showed fits perfectly on the center hub nut and could be used to hold everything from moving while you loosen the Phillips screws, rather than marring things up by jabbing a Flat-head screwdriver in there.
Great tip! Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
3:32 Couldn't you use the wrench to hold it still? Like in the last step?
Maybe. You *MIGHT* be able to get the Channel Locks in there to hold the underlying component while breaking the machine screws loose, but it would be a tight fit. Instead, I just muscled through it.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing he meant use the wrench you held the drive to remove the backing pad, hold that and remove the counter weight,
I don't have this tool, but I do have a Bauer surface conditioning tool, and will use the info from this video to replace the grease in that tool.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Nice, I need to do that to my 20 year old polisher and other gear box tools
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
HF OEM lube is like Vaseline. Same should be done for their cheap model angle grinders! I remember their early offerings of Chicago Electric angle grinders were so poorly made, it destroyed itself upon first use. No ball bearings, just a dry brass bushing! No a spit of grease. Crazy. The latest ones are OK for their price.
great attention to details
Thank you, that's what I try to do in all my videos, how-to articles and car and boat detailing classes. So nice to read *kind words*, instead of negative comments.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Great tip! Does this need to be done on Flex and other higher-end polishers? Or do they already use more premium grease?
All the popular long stroke polishers would NOT require this neither would any of the FLEX BEAST tools. I actually show this in my review for the Harbor Freight Hercules Forced Rotation Polisher. I also show the inside of the FLEX BEAST in this video. I've included the link below.
*Which Forced Rotation Polisher Is BETTER? Harbor Freight Hercules vs. Flex XC 3401 VRG*
ruclips.net/video/AV5edKszDEU/видео.html
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Even the $300.00/$500.00 polishers all need this grease swap. I've had the Milwaukee M18 series, Adams Swirl Killers, Torq, older Griot's Garage, DeWalt cordless, and they all, for some unknown reason, chose to use this garbage grease. Not sure what Rupes use. It's not just the entry-level polishers. Some say the swap can affect the warranty?? Thanks for this video.
I doubt the grease swap would void the warranty, my experience is when you return a tool to Harbor Freight, there's really no questions asked, they just let you swap for the identical tool. Most of the people you'll deal with are simply employees, they're not there to investigate each tool and tool return.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
That isn't "garbage grease". Nobody is wearing out, or breaking gear sets. This is just over filling a cavity.
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing Harbor Freight doesn't care. I was thinking Milwaukee might since they return the same tool back to you when you use their warranty. Thanks, Mike.
thanks professor. should you do this to every polisher?
All polishers are different, so it would be a case-by-case situation. The only way to know for sure would be to look at a disassembly diagram or take the tool apart. All the popular long stroke polishers would NOT require this neither would any of the FLEX BEAST tools.
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailingwhat about the Hercules forced rotation polisher?
Good Dr., there is a very high probability the OEM grease is silicone, not lithium. Further, the grease you used is a lithium complex, and uses a heavy base oil. The problem using that type of grease in this application besides poor lubrication is oil bleed from the grease, which you don’t want dripping on the pad or wax. There are very specific greases for this application and if you want additional info, send me a PM or an email address and I will be happy to assist you like you help all of us!
Thanks Ron, but for the most part, I have a few of these in the shop for our students to try out while taking one of our classes. Me? I'm a rotary guy and for orbital polishers, I use the FLEX BEAST. I ain't got no time for Brain Drain using free spinning random orbital polishers like this HF polisher.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ I appreciate your videos, and I learn a lot, thank you! Ps: there is nothing in my brain to drain!
Can you share with the rest of us in the comments what would be an improved alternative to red and tacky?
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing My friend has a Flex but I think it's a Supra? Flex . Has Anyone used the cordless model of the Beast? Wondering how it compares to the corded model and how the batteries hold up too.
@@sheepdog3828 see my comment below
There was another vid out there about 6 yrs ago on the Chicago Electric brand & upgrading the bearings!
Yeah, that's beyond my skill level and just as important, my interest level. I normally use the FLEX cordless rotary polisher and the FLEX BEAST. I don't have time for any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher and the brain drain that comes with them.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Yak fat was probably used to lubricate the moving parts.
What happens to the rest of the Yak?
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I never lose screws, I always have extras left over
Ha ha - that's me too. LOL Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I clean and regrease every new tool with moving parts right out of the box and regular intervals. use a high molybdenum content grease, and sintered parts will last far longer.
Thanks for sharing your insights.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
You always need to use a solvent to dissolve old grease before adding new grease to prevent failure.
Grease compatibility is very complicated. It’s possible to have same type of grease with different brand incompatible with each other. When two incompatible grease mixed it’s either it will turn to a liquid or hard solid. 😂 Anything excessive is bad.
Great advice and everyone reading this into the future, consider what @w0lvez1 recommends. Me? It's an inexpensive tool that won't see much use in our shop because we use mostly FLEX tools.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I think I would unplug it before tearing into any power tool. Accidents happen..
Thanks for the safety tip, but more important, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillip
Great video. I’m sure it’s likely similar to the smaller unit, but do you also recommend this for the larger Bauer DA?
No idea, you would have to disassemble it to check and see.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
In this process I would definitely replace the crap screws.
Great advice. Normally what I would do is not only replace them but share the exact size and thread of the machine screw and even a picture of the packaging to make it super easy for others to take your advice. But in this video, because most stores that will carry the specific machine screws needed are at least 6 miles away, I just shared another valuable tip, and that is to simply - be sure to use a Phillips head screwdriver in new condition and of course, press down hard when breaking the machine screws loose and then don't over tighten.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
The screws are called JIS screws and you need a JIS screw driver.
Thanks for sharing your insights.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Did u use any blue locktite on the retaining screws. Such soft Chinese made screws.
No, I tightened until snug and then a tick more and stopped. In the last 40+ years of running multiple types and brands of polishers, having screws loosen that I've tightened has been the least of my worries, but great tip for others to consider. Normally, I tighten bolts down until they strip and then back them off a half turn. (Just kidding)
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@
I Always use a fresh #2 Phillips and those ‘soft metal screws’ strip soooooo easily. I packed a Maxshine with hi-temp grease, Every screw was a hardened machine screw. Oh well, it wasn’t $60 dollars either. Thanks for the great video. 👍👍
@@Matt_justlikethat - Like I always say,
*"The little things are the big things"*
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@Matt_justlikethat - Thanks for watching and the compliment. -Mike Phillips
17:46 I think you are describing is called angular momentum.
You are correct, the terminology escaped me while concentrating on both the action and speaking to the camera. Thank you for chiming in and also for watching. -Mike Phillips
@ I understood what you were saying. Definitely not a term I use every day. Great video Mike! I’m going to do this to my polishers this weekend 😊
Would you suggest this for a Porter Cable 7424?
To be honest, I've never seen the need to do this to the PC and I've never tried to take one this far apart.
I've been using the Porter Cable since the 1980's, back when both Barry Meguiar's and Richard Griot introduced the Porter Cable or PC for short to the car detailing world. And I've NEVER had a problem with the probable hundreds of PCs I've used. I had 24 of these tools for my classes when I worked at Autogeek. It *used* to be the first polisher I would start the class out with because it's so simple to use. But feel free to take yours apart and please come back and update this RUclips video messages with what you find out.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
If the grease that whoever uses is too thick it will not stay on the gears and will be stuck to the walls of the case and stop lubricating the grease needs to flow like the type of Grease that's in a CV axle boot that way it can stay moving around back onto the gears themselves
Thanks for sharing your insights.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Redline CV2, a grease made specifically for CV joints, is an NLGI #2, just like the red and tacky stuff used here.
Now, a tripod CV joint often specs an NLGI #1. But people often use NLGI #2 there, without significant consequence. I don't think it's gonna matter much here.
Great tutorial on how to do this. Ill be doing too real soon.
Wow! A POSITVE comment!
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I still have the one they had before all the cordless tools hit. Bought 2 of the red ones, and neither has failed me or my dad at all. Its quiet but does buzz pretty hard.I just figured that was normal operation. Has anyone used the forced rotation one yet? Think I need one of those too. would think it will cut quite a bit more than a loose DA one would
See my review for the Harbor Freight forced rotation copy of the FLEX BEAST here,
ruclips.net/video/itlXM8LOWAw/видео.html
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I'm dying watching you remove screws by hand. . .
Ha ha, I was dying on camera! Sad thing is, I had a brand-new FLEX cordless drill/screwdriver. It's okay though, out of all the things I do in life, I find it a tick on the relaxing side to use hand tools - by hand. LOL
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I did this a few years ago to my Harbor Freight random orbital polisher and it does help, but they are still nowhere near as good as a better product.
Of course, my go-to orbital is the FLEX BEAST - I just made this video for those that go low-cost alternative.
Thanks for the safety tip, but more important, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillip
Thank you
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Someone told me 00 grade grease is even more appropriate than that #2 grade grease? That it’s about viscosity not fancy brands or colors? I guess #2 grade doesn’t flow very well? It sets like peanut butter and just stays in one spot? 00 grade is thinner, more like apple sauce and comes in constant contact with the gears, it’s what’s actually recommended for gear cases, gearboxes? What do you guys think about using 00 grade viscosity grease vs #2 grade viscosity grease?
Shinemate recommend NLGI #1 grease. Which is thinner than Lucas Red and Tacky(NLGI #2).
Very good point, i have used 0, 1 and 2 grease. If you have an electric unit, 1 or even 2 NLGI will be ok the unit has the power for the slightly thicker grease. If you have a battery unit i would use the 0 or 1 viscosity NLGI grease so it doesn't load up the battery motor too much.
Anything more and i think you will cause the motors too heat over.
Definitely feel free to do your due research and then pick the grease that will match your wishes best. To be honest, about the only time I use these types of tools is when I'm teaching classes, and one of the students wants to test this tool out.
Besides that, most of my car and boat detailing classes use rotary polishers and *GEAR-DRIVEN* orbital polishers as both these tools are faster and there's no *Brain Drain* while doing paint correction.
Brain Drain is where you mark the side of the backing plate to make it easier for your eyes to see and monitor pad rotation. This means if it's going to take you 4-5 hours to COMPOND an 2018 Honda 4-Door Accord, you're going to be *LOOKING* at the backing plate this entire time and this is what I call Brain Drain.
I don't do Brain Drain and I certainly don't teach others to do Brain Drain. LOL
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@robertoduranos5196 very good points that are often overlooked. I am looking for a synthetic NLGI 1 grease. Amsoil and Schaeffer's have greases that tick those boxes.
I'm kind of a FLEX cordless Rotary Polisher and BEAST guy, we just made this video because a lot of people buy this tool as their first entry tool into the car detailing world.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Instead of just the right size channel locks, couldn't you just use a socket wrench on the spindle nut? The same hex head you use the the narrow spindle locking wrench on to get the backing plate off. But instead of using the narrow open end wrench, use an actual socket (backing plate already removed, socket will easily fit)
I don't think that will work, but a person could try. The BIG PICTURE point is in order to remove the spindle assembly, you simply need to find a way to secure the spindle assembly to lock-it-up. I used a screwdriver and no animals were hurt. Did the job, put the tool back together and moved on with life. To be honest, I never use this type of tool as I own numerous FLEX BEASTS, Supa BEASTS and CBEASTS and I don't waste time with any brand of free spinning, random orbital polishers, except sometimes, the Porter Cable 7424XP. Short stroke beats long stroke any day on any car. But GEAR-DRIVEN orbitals beat any free spinning, random orbital polisher no matter what the orbit stroke.
-Mike Phillips
I learned from mistake, you can't add too much grease, it increases the load on the tool, in my case, it caused the motor windings to fail in short circuit, due to excess of very thick grease.
Agree. In hindsight, I packed in too much grease. The good news is, we hardly ever use these tools and these *"types"* of tools for our car and boat detailing classes. Instead, we put a lot of emphasis on gear-driven orbitals and then there's no need to replace grease and even better, with a gear-driven orbital, there's *ZERO* pad stalling and *ZERO Brain Drain*.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
you should let it run for 15min then you will know, the temp will be damn burning hot! is because you put too much! cause I tried that before... more grease sure reduce the noise but increase the heat!
It is HF junk, no one gives a $#!+ if it overheats.
Less is more when repacking it with good quality grease.
@@johnnywcw123 It is a POS HF product.
Who cares if it overheats.
Thats what you get for being cheap.
Probably over heated because the grease is thicker, takes more power to push through it.
@@bigboreracing356wasteful mindset.
I have the same DA & will use either one of the Schaffer's grease or by Renewable Lubricants since they are both known to have the highest Antimony content in them which will really quiet these gears.
Might as well use the best when doing this type of upgrade.
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Would that be the Ultra Supreme grease?
Turns to liquid when heated. I would think i would start to leak out with extended run time. Especially if you overfill it.
Wow great insights and tips, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I wonder if this mod can be done on my Bauer angle grinder and multi tool 🤔
No idea, you would have to disassemble it to check and see.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@daved3948 That's all this is. An angle grinder. What's with the trumptard emoji?
Why i like the chemical guys torq machines. They got a plug that u pull and pack it with a grease gun
Thanks for watching and sharing. -Mike Phillips
When I switched to the 5" backing plate the vibration went away.
Thanks for sharing. I think I mentioned that using a *"known"* quality backing plate could remove vibration and of course, it only makes sense. The backing plate is at the center of all the mass rotating and oscillating and the more perfectly it is balanced, the smoother the tool will feel, especially if polishing or sanding for hours.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Sounded louder to me
I've done this swap twice and it makes the tool more quiet and smoother to hold. Some people will do the grease swap while others will not. Something for everyone!
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
It did sound louder on the video. But as you heard him say, its the annoying high pitched whine and associated vibes that are problematic, and both of those are difficult to capture on video.
This isn't the first I've heard of someone doing this mod with great success (just the best diy on the process, so well done!) With so many having success, you know it works, even if the before after sound demo didn't seem especially impressive.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 - Could be sometime in the future, Yancy and I will try again to show the before and after difference, but I'll have to either borrow or purchase a different tool as both of the Harbor Freight DAs I have in the shop have both been upgraded to the new grease.
-Mike
Do you think the Lucas white lithium grease is as good as Lucas red and tacky?
I have no idea. Maybe check with Bob is the Oil Guy?
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Or you could just put your wrench on the shaft and then take your screws out of the counterweight
Thanks for sharing your insights.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
You didnt do the most important part, the inside cup of the top gear!!
Ding dang! I wish you could have watched during this LIVE broadcast and then you could have made your suggestion in real-time.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Replacing the grease does nothing for vibration. Cheap tools vibrate more because they don't bother matching the weight of the pad/backing plate combo to the weight of the counterweight. They just slap together parts that were never meant to work together.
It's not hard to fix this yourself by weighing your backing plate and pad, and then trying different combos till you eliminate the vibration. In situations where the counterweight is too heavy you can add some heavy washers to the plate or use a heavier pad or both. When the counterweight is too light you can try to find a lighter backing plate or lighter pads. It's not rocket science.
Wow great insights and tips, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I see no reason because of the insanely high pitch screech after you greased it
I have no idea what you're talking about but more important, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillip
Unplug your tool before you start taking it apart.
Thanks for the safety tip, but more important, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Figured the first thing you’d do is ensure it isn’t plugged in….🤔
Thanks for the safety tip, but more important, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillip
They don’t want to improve the device because that would suggest higher cost lube and material to make it…thus they have to charge more for the device but they don’t want to increase prices to at say competitive so if the they improve it that way they loose millions of dollars yearly by doing that.
At the end of the day, it is what it is.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
you overdo it with grease.....Please let me know after one minute is more hot ? Yes because is more than need.....Thank you
Get some J.I.S. Phillip Screwdrivers..your stripping problems will disappear. It’s a screwdriver problem not a screw problem.
Wow! Thanks for the great tip!
Thanks for the safety tip, but more important, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Just Buy Milwaukee or Makita from the Start and You won't have those Cheap Tool Problems and Your Tools will last Dramatically longer and Parts will always be available in the USA if You eventually have problems. You get what You pay for if You do Your Home work First.
Of course you're correct but keep in mind, some people buy a ROLEX and some people buy a TIMEX - there's something for everyone and every budget.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Bauer motors are junk. I purchased a Bauer grinder that burned up in minutes. I have a sears craftsman grinder I’ve used for 30 years. It’s just slowing down now.
That's why I'm a FLEX buy, they cost more but you get what you pay for.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Lubricated with Chinese earwax.
Huh? What you talking about? LOL
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Don't use a high pressure or extreme pressure grease containing sulphur on stuff that's yellow it will destroy the yellow metals even with moderate use in a short amount of time.
Great tip! Thanks or sharing!
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
It is Vaseline not grease
Wrong. It’s KY lube.
Thanks for exposing this POS! Cut your loss and move on to a quality tool! This fix is like “putting lipstick on a pig”!
Not really exposing anything, just showing how to make an improvement. Keep in mind, a LOT of people just *STARTING OUT* will often times opt for a less expensive tool and then *AFTER* they discover they either *LOVE* detailing, then they can always upgrade to better, faster working tools.
I personally use the BEAST for about 95% of all my orbital work, that and a rotary polisher will tackle most cars.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
The first thing you want to do is unplug it.
Thanks for the safety tip, but more important, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
first thing you do...is unplug it
Thanks for the safety tip, but more important, thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Why do you buy junk in the first place if you are a professional detailer?
Not sure what you're talking about Tom? I normally use FLEX power tools for all my work, and they are the primary brand of tools for my car and boat detailing classes. BECAUSE a lot of people, especially anyone just getting into detailing, the low-cost HF polisher is a good start. So, I'm just sharing something that will help new detailers. I bought it to make the video and for my students to be able to test out the tool before making up their mind which tool to buy. It's a *Try before you buy* format that works well for classes. I also have RUPES, DeWALT, Griot's Garage, Milwaukie, for the students to test out.
The First thing you want to do is, UNPLUG IT.
Thanks for the safety tip and more important, thank you for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
@ Great informative video. Grade two grease contains more thickener than lube oil. The gears have to push the thickener around in a small space causing heat. If you use a grade one grease , you’ll lubricate with more oil. But still, too much grease in a small space isn’t helpful.
Using different grease is not a "mod"
By definition, it is.
@gregory3227 Nothing was modified. The lubricant was replaced.
@@corythomas4427 that is a modification
@@corythomas4427 Yeah the grease was num nuts haha
@@TheBeastKane See it how you want, I don't see it as a mod.
Also, you will likely find your life much more fulfilling if you learn to express your opinions using respect and without resorting to name calling.
Why waist your time and effort seeing this piece of junk will completely become dead in the water after 6 hours of light usage
Why waist your time when you could hip your time or thigh it? In a pinch you could shin your time or even shoulder it if you need to.
That's actually not true, but thank you for commenting and watching! -Mike Phillips
Use the wrench to hold it while you remove the screws?
Good insight, thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
Im betting that external bearing would be of poor quality and dry of lubrication which is visible on the outside of the hub would be contributing to noise
Could be, like I mentioned above,
To be honest, about the only time I use these types of tools is when I'm teaching classes, and one of the students wants to test this tool out.
Besides that, most of my car and boat detailing classes use rotary polishers and GEAR-DRIVEN orbital polishers as both these tools are faster and there's no Brain Drain while doing paint correction.
Brain Drain is where you mark the side of the backing plate to make it easier for your eyes to see and monitor pad rotation. This means if it's going to take you 4-5 hours to COMPOND an 2018 Honda 4-Door Accord, you're going to be LOOKING at the backing plate this entire time and this is what I call Brain Drain.
I don't do Brain Drain and I certainly don't teach others to do Brain Drain. LOL
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips