Hi Bill, That is by far the best home build video I've seen yet. Great explanations too. I'd be proud to own and ride one of those bikes. Thank you for taking the time to make the bike and video. Cheers Ian McBride, Aberdeen, Scotland.
Chrome wasn't used in 1927, but nickel plating was. I would like a nice nickel-plated exhaust pipe, but plating would cost more money than I was willing to spend. I try to keep all my projects "low buck" and "in house". I'm currently building a replica of a 1950 Ferrari 166MM Lusso and it too is low buck, and in house, but the results are pretty cool. I'll be posting a video of that in the next few weeks. It's been a 5+ year project. Thank-you for your generous comments.
To be honest no museum would take this bike. As with most replicas the modern engine is a dead giveaway. The best thing to do if you want to build a replica is to find an engine first. Doesn't matter what kind but the older the better. Then start building around that. The motor is the the most important thing to get right. It's the core or the heart of the bike. For instance, the Cannonball Run will allow you to replicate every single part of a bike but it has to have a pre-1917 engine on it to enter the race. Everything else can be replica parts, including the frame.
no its not a museum piece its a driver something to ride for fun you get the feel of the old bike and a reliable modern motor,those old motors are hard to deal with they are very finicky and fussy it takes a lot of attention to make them go
Excellent video Bill, ive enjoyed all of the videos you post, but this was great. I really appreciate the time you put in to making this, the bike turned out Awesome. I also did a similar gear reduction on an old Powermatic bandsaw i picked up and used it to build a set of headers from scratch, been very happy with it, and saved a bunch of money over a Metal cutting band saw. Thanks again, always learn something from your stuff.
As a lifelong Harley guy, I confess only a mild interest in the Teabags, but the conception, execution and results of this project are 100% SPOT ON ! You can ride with me anytime, little brother ! Helluva job !
Bill, I'm not much of a motorcycle fan, however, I can relate with the feeling of scratching something off the "bucket list"! You've been busy with the videos lately and I'm loving it. Keep them coming! As before, if you need anything, give me a shout.
great job ,,, only thing i would have done was move the cross stroke on N orton , so it read Horton , a play on Honda but in the same type font , just for the giggle ,,, but thats a fantastic usable brand new classic.
Pretty incredible. Though with your talent I'm not sure why you didn't a) colour the gold bits on the main fork spring black to 'age' them, and b) fabricate some kind of engine cover to obscure that 70s/80s angular appearance. Apart from that it's sublime.
Hello , i like what you are doing i have a schwinn 50s 26 " bike to build . and i have a 2.8 chevy motor 89 - with 79 thousand . running and driving . Car wont pass insp. Air works too .
I have just built a replica 1950 Ferrari 166. I used a Chevy 2.8 motor. It's a great engine and makes the same horsepower as the original Ferrari engine. I have a RUclips video of the Ferrari and engine. Search Longyard Ferrari
First of all great project! 2nd is my questione. What kind of front shock absorber you have used, how strong it is? I have very similar project and have to find the proper one.
Something like this. Just a coil/shock for a mountain bicycle, very inexpensive. Rated for about 300kilo. Good luck! www.ebay.pl/itm/265402765525?hash=item3dcb3cd0d5:g:eDUAAOSwSwphjsea
@@williamlongyard5887 i did that. at the end it shows 40:40 and doesn't go further although it shows the total time is 50:26, i tried to upload a pic but it won't copy.
A girder front end is definitely not better than a telescopic front end, and telescopic front ends are definitely not cheaper to build. Girder front ends have their own kicks that affect steering geometry, such as the axle travels through an arching motion as the suspension compresses and rebounds, where a telescopic front end travels in a straight linear path. All front ends that have suspension travel will have changes in rake while moving through their range of travel, a telescopic front end will maintain a constant amount of trail while a girder does not (due to its arching path through its range of travel) . If girder front suspension was better than telescopic front suspension you can bet it would be used in competition, regardless of cost. But you don't see it in any substantial way in any form of modern motorcycle competition. The only advantages a girder front end had over a telescopic front end was it's ruggedness over rough early roads that would destroy early telescopic fork seals and possibly bend the telescopic forks. The girder front end which is in essence 2 triangles or 2 arches are inherently stronger for the amount of weight when compared to a telescopic frontend.
In theory a parallelogram suspension is far superior to a telescopic fork. Because: the path that the front axle takes can be more that a straight line. By changing the lengths of the horizontal members you can cause the wheel to move in a j path. this allows for more subtle bump activation and at the same time critical relationships like the rake, trail and steering angles can be maintained thought out travel.
@@williamlongyard5887 there is theory, and there is how things actually work. There is a reason telescopic forks, in particular inverted telescopic forks are the choice for performance uses in every form of motorcycle racing, and it's not the cost to manufacture them. They just perform better.
although its a lovely finished bike it looks wrong in two main ways, firstly the engine is obviously too modern, and the final drive is also out of period design, I can see tho you have put an immense amount of work in to it and I,d be proud too if I,d built it, maybe address the engine /drive issue and the fuel cap and gearshift arrangement, and im pretty sure you,d fool most into thinking ot was the real machine.
Bill thanks for this video. Zeke and I just watched it and we enjoyed it! Why didn't your use the portable band saw on your vertical jig to cut the 3/16" steel?
Patrick DeZeeuw My converted woodsaw pulleyed down to run a metal blade is set up with a 1/4" wide blade which can cut tighter circles than my Milwaukee handheld (great tool) which has a 1/2" blade. Straight cut on a non-precise line are fine with the Milwaukee and very fast. Precision work, and curves, requires the full sized band saw. I hope you and Zeke are working on another projects. I really admire the time you're spending with him, and I hope you'll keep his hands on tools rather than video games.
A good job you didn't go for the original 23 Inch wheel rims as there's better chance of a lawyer making it into heaven than finding someone who manufactures tyres for 23 Inch rims. The aftermarket girder forks that serious riders installed on their bikes during the 1920's and 1930's were Webb racing forks. they have a very distinctive look and a few innovations that make them stand apart from their contemporaries. usually fouind on Rudge motorcycles. Rudge was the first motorcycle manufacturer to produce a 4 stroke 250cc.road bike that could achieve a genuine 100 MPH (107 MPH top speed) in 1938. It was the last model they ever introduced as production stopped in 1939 for the war effort. Suzuki's claims to being the first with the T20 "Super 6" (in 1967) are just marketing BS!!
William Longyard I unterstand that you like these bikes, but you could have just designed and built something similar and not a replica. If you have a bike with a yamaha engine and a tank that says norton, then its just another replica. Then its nothing that is worth looking at. But if you have a "distinctive" bike (that you designed yourself) with a yamaha engine and no norton decals, then thats an interesting and unique bike.
Hi Bill,
That is by far the best home build video I've seen yet. Great explanations too. I'd be proud to own and ride one of those bikes. Thank you for taking the time to make the bike and video.
Cheers
Ian McBride, Aberdeen, Scotland.
Holy smokes. this is a pure passion build. You are a master builder. the final product is incredible. I would like to see the exhaust pipe in chrome.
Chrome wasn't used in 1927, but nickel plating was. I would like a nice nickel-plated exhaust pipe, but plating would cost more money than I was willing to spend. I try to keep all my projects "low buck" and "in house". I'm currently building a replica of a 1950 Ferrari 166MM Lusso and it too is low buck, and in house, but the results are pretty cool. I'll be posting a video of that in the next few weeks. It's been a 5+ year project. Thank-you for your generous comments.
Brilliant, simply brilliant. From one spectrum shop guy to another, genius!
I like your attention to detail, I also like that its a driver not a museum piece, good job sir.
To be honest no museum would take this bike. As with most replicas the modern engine is a dead giveaway. The best thing to do if you want to build a replica is to find an engine first. Doesn't matter what kind but the older the better. Then start building around that. The motor is the the most important thing to get right. It's the core or the heart of the bike. For instance, the Cannonball Run will allow you to replicate every single part of a bike but it has to have a pre-1917 engine on it to enter the race. Everything else can be replica parts, including the frame.
no its not a museum piece its a driver something to ride for fun you get the feel of the old bike and a reliable modern motor,those old motors are hard to deal with they are very finicky and fussy it takes a lot of attention to make them go
Excellent video Bill, ive enjoyed all of the videos you post, but this was great. I really appreciate the time you put in to making this, the bike turned out Awesome. I also did a similar gear reduction on an old Powermatic bandsaw i picked up and used it to build a set of headers from scratch, been very happy with it, and saved a bunch of money over a Metal cutting band saw. Thanks again, always learn something from your stuff.
As a lifelong Harley guy, I confess only a mild interest in the Teabags, but the conception, execution and results of this project are 100% SPOT ON ! You can ride with me anytime, little brother ! Helluva job !
This is one of the only videos that gives a great detailed breakdown of the build. Great Video!
Bill,
I'm not much of a motorcycle fan, however, I can relate with the feeling of scratching something off the "bucket list"! You've been busy with the videos lately and I'm loving it. Keep them coming! As before, if you need anything, give me a shout.
An amazing job,you,re honousty and craftmanship are refreshing.
Nice video and ofcourse a fantastic endresult!
I'm so glad you posted this up. I've had the same idea for the pass 10years. Already got my donor bike. Just never got around to do it.
Very well done Sir Norton. Deep respect to you
Watched the entire thing. Great work man!
Wow just wow!
great job reflects of an era when art and function coexisted. you got my standing ovation all the naysayers should put up or piss off. bravo govna!
What a fantastic build. Well done.
Wow! some talent you have there. Loved to do my own soon.
I enjoy watch your vd on sunday afternoon, and plus, very well explained like you did. thank you!
Amazing. You just made a fan and sold a book here in Greensboro.
really enjoyed the video the Norton replica came out great.
Very impressive Mr. Longyard...
Beautiful work. I bet it's super fun to ride.
Really well done. Love the attention to detail.
It came out super rad me and my sons we have a couple of Bicycles with Engine nothing as rad as your have a good day
Very Impressive!!!
Nice bike, and thanks for detailed story!
Nice job. You've done very well.
You are an awesome builder. Any video of it ridden?
great job ,,, only thing i would have done was move the cross stroke on N orton , so it read
Horton , a play on Honda but in the same type font , just for the giggle ,,, but thats a fantastic usable brand new classic.
Nice work!
Nice bike . I built one too . Mine is not this nice but it is still very fun to ride
Superb build!!!
Pretty incredible. Though with your talent I'm not sure why you didn't a) colour the gold bits on the main fork spring black to 'age' them, and b) fabricate some kind of engine cover to obscure that 70s/80s angular appearance. Apart from that it's sublime.
Great vid. Impressive as hell!
Great video!
DIY at its FINEST! BRAVO
great build , i' m inspired
Very nice job
Thank-you Colin!
@@williamlongyard5887 - cool project
Looks amazing
great work! 👍
Hello , i like what you are doing i have a schwinn 50s 26 " bike to build . and i have a 2.8 chevy motor 89 - with 79 thousand . running and driving . Car wont pass insp. Air works too .
I have just built a replica 1950 Ferrari 166. I used a Chevy 2.8 motor. It's a great engine and makes the same horsepower as the original Ferrari engine. I have a RUclips video of the Ferrari and engine. Search Longyard Ferrari
Oh so sweet..
A HONDA AT HEART !!!!!!!!!!!
so if you used the motor and part of the frame, when you insure it, do you just insure it as a honda 185? or whats the deal with something like that?
You should paint the the cylinder and cylinder head black. Then it will look more like the model 19.
Beautiful bike and craftsmanship!! What are your rims off of? And rim size?
First of all great project! 2nd is my questione. What kind of front shock absorber you have used, how strong it is? I have very similar project and have to find the proper one.
Something like this. Just a coil/shock for a mountain bicycle, very inexpensive. Rated for about 300kilo. Good luck! www.ebay.pl/itm/265402765525?hash=item3dcb3cd0d5:g:eDUAAOSwSwphjsea
@@williamlongyard5887 thank you very much. My project is something between yours and this
ruclips.net/video/bTO_gYp3oTc/видео.html
Please please please pack one up and send to PK
Solid skills.
Good old Bill 👍🏻
on the vid i am watching, the pics are not in sync with the narrative. is there something wrong with my computer?
Try reloading.
@@williamlongyard5887 i did that. at the end it shows 40:40 and doesn't go further although it shows the total time is 50:26, i tried to upload a pic but it won't copy.
I think I am in love...
Sweet!
Now its a Horton ;P
A girder front end is definitely not better than a telescopic front end, and telescopic front ends are definitely not cheaper to build. Girder front ends have their own kicks that affect steering geometry, such as the axle travels through an arching motion as the suspension compresses and rebounds, where a telescopic front end travels in a straight linear path. All front ends that have suspension travel will have changes in rake while moving through their range of travel, a telescopic front end will maintain a constant amount of trail while a girder does not (due to its arching path through its range of travel) . If girder front suspension was better than telescopic front suspension you can bet it would be used in competition, regardless of cost. But you don't see it in any substantial way in any form of modern motorcycle competition. The only advantages a girder front end had over a telescopic front end was it's ruggedness over rough early roads that would destroy early telescopic fork seals and possibly bend the telescopic forks. The girder front end which is in essence 2 triangles or 2 arches are inherently stronger for the amount of weight when compared to a telescopic frontend.
In theory a parallelogram suspension is far superior to a telescopic fork. Because: the path that the front axle takes can be more that a straight line. By changing the lengths of the horizontal members you can cause the wheel to move in a j path. this allows for more subtle bump activation and at the same time critical relationships like the rake, trail and steering angles can be maintained thought out travel.
@@williamlongyard5887 there is theory, and there is how things actually work. There is a reason telescopic forks, in particular inverted telescopic forks are the choice for performance uses in every form of motorcycle racing, and it's not the cost to manufacture them. They just perform better.
although its a lovely finished bike it looks wrong in two main ways, firstly the engine is obviously too modern, and the final drive is also out of period design, I can see tho you have put an immense amount of work in to it and I,d be proud too if I,d built it, maybe address the engine /drive issue and the fuel cap and gearshift arrangement, and im pretty sure you,d fool most into thinking ot was the real machine.
I live in Sevierville Tennessee are you close
Winston-Salem, NC
I love the Idea and your workmanship is excellent but for me the Honda engine is a little too recent looking for your retro styling
Bill thanks for this video. Zeke and I just watched it and we enjoyed it! Why didn't your use the portable band saw on your vertical jig to cut the 3/16" steel?
Patrick DeZeeuw My converted woodsaw pulleyed down to run a metal blade is set up with a 1/4" wide blade which can cut tighter circles than my Milwaukee handheld (great tool) which has a 1/2" blade. Straight cut on a non-precise line are fine with the Milwaukee and very fast. Precision work, and curves, requires the full sized band saw. I hope you and Zeke are working on another projects. I really admire the time you're spending with him, and I hope you'll keep his hands on tools rather than video games.
+William Longyard You are a legend, a man of passion, enjoyed this very much, keep it happening..
You wanna sell it?
A good job you didn't go for the original 23 Inch wheel rims as there's better chance of a lawyer making it into heaven than finding someone who manufactures tyres for 23 Inch rims.
The aftermarket girder forks that serious riders installed on their bikes during the 1920's and 1930's were Webb racing forks. they have a very distinctive look and a few innovations that make them stand apart from their contemporaries. usually fouind on Rudge motorcycles. Rudge was the first motorcycle manufacturer to produce a 4 stroke 250cc.road bike that could achieve a genuine 100 MPH (107 MPH top speed) in 1938. It was the last model they ever introduced as production stopped in 1939 for the war effort.
Suzuki's claims to being the first with the T20 "Super 6" (in 1967) are just marketing BS!!
I bet "9 Weeks" is how long it took you to make tis videos
Rinegn Productions
Probably took 20 minutes to build that hunk a shit on your profile pic.
can you help me with mine
contact me at: longyard@ix.netcom.com
@@williamlongyard5887 Thank you
I also have a taste for these old bikes.
Here our attempt at Bespoke Emporium
ruclips.net/video/gZe-M8Nn-zg/видео.html
bom ....
another way to drive a Norton: Norjap (Norton + JAP) @
Here is a video of the first run
ruclips.net/video/WY0W4pvzUJA/видео.html
I think this is an insult
You are a Friggn Joke. Norton would blow this Dude if they seen this.
Why did you make a replica?
You could have just made your own motorcycle
Thisplacesux I made a replica because I like the old girder frame bikes from the 20s and 30s, but don't have the money to buy a good one.
William Longyard
I unterstand that you like these bikes, but you could have just designed and built something similar and not a replica.
If you have a bike with a yamaha engine and a tank that says norton, then its just another replica.
Then its nothing that is worth looking at.
But if you have a "distinctive" bike (that you designed yourself) with a yamaha engine and no norton decals, then thats an interesting and unique bike.
Dumb ass Fukn Question !
Will. This Build is Incredible. Mad Skills !
Great build great video
Your very talented
Superbly done!!
another way to drive a Norton: Norjap (Norton + JAP) @