Thank you bro!! Great job and a huge help!! Just one suggestion, is it possible to go a little slower in explaining the steps? In other words, regarding how to take off the air intake, what needs to happen when you open the over flow transmission value.
Any news on the pending brake fluid change vid? I’m curious best way to reach clutch bleed nipple to bleed clutch as well. Also interested in a video for the manual spindle method of rear brake service. There are no videos of this online
That is recommend over the regular Synchromesh, for clutch type LSDs. However I would stick with the Friction Modified version for Honda manual transmissions as it helps alleviate some of the gear grind people seem to get occasionally, and helps smooth shifting. Synchros require a certain amount of friction to engage quickly and smoothly...But up to you, you can try both, or read up more on the subject.
What about changing diff fluid? What interval do you recommend changing that at? And if the same synchromesh fluid is used for both, does it make sense to change that and the M/T fluid at the same time? Also looking forward to your brake fluid video... Would you recommend Motul DOT 5.1 (as opposed to RBF 600) for daily-driving?
The FWD Civic does not have a separate Diff. Everything is housed inside the transaxle as shown in this video. Changing the fluid-like so is draining and changing the transmission and differential fluid.
I have a question what oil is compatible with the diff, because i have a 2018 ctr and from time to time i have gear grind some people recommend changing the oil with more expensive oil. example redline mt90 i believe it was.
It's not about more expensive. The people telling you to step up to MT90, are telling you to step up in viscosity. From the factory 75/80 to a 75/90. That's a difference of going from like a ~10 to a ~15 CSt at 100°C. That's quite a jump. I would not really recommend that unless your car is heavily modified for more power, or you track it regularly. If you live in a really hot environment, that's hot most year round, you can try and step up to a 75/85, which takes you up to about a 12-12.5 CSt at 100°C. Though again it shouldn't really need that if it's not modified. Just going with a higher quality gear oil should help solve some of the problems you may be having with gear grind. Options I would recommend for daily driving and light unmodified track use are: - Redline MTL (75W/80W) - Amsoil Synchromesh - ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified You can read up on the user experiences with these fluids. Personally while I love and use Amsoil Signature motor oil, I prefer either the Redline MTL or the ACDelco, gear oil. Though you can't really go wrong with either of the 3.
This is why I love honda:) always makes it easy to work on
Great video guys! Keep it up!
Great job nice video
Thank you bro!! Great job and a huge help!! Just one suggestion, is it possible to go a little slower in explaining the steps? In other words, regarding how to take off the air intake, what needs to happen when you open the over flow transmission value.
Thanks for the video. Just a little constructive criticism you should’ve explain things a little bit more like how to use the check bolt
Why not show how to remove the intake?
Any news on the pending brake fluid change vid? I’m curious best way to reach clutch bleed nipple to bleed clutch as well.
Also interested in a video for the manual spindle method of rear brake service. There are no videos of this online
Love Like a Hurricane that’s a good idea. Will note that.
3:08 Where the heck is that? I can't make out the diagram.
Sooo are you eventually putting out Part 3 of this 3 part series (Brake Fluid Change)???
purejb that’s the plan. We need to get sometime to complete it.
@27WON Glad you haven't forgotten :)
I wish someone would come up with hex bolts instead of Phillips bolts for those 2 engine undercover bolts.
I thought ACDelco 10-4014 Friction Modified is the recommended one for LSD?
That is recommend over the regular Synchromesh, for clutch type LSDs. However I would stick with the Friction Modified version for Honda manual transmissions as it helps alleviate some of the gear grind people seem to get occasionally, and helps smooth shifting. Synchros require a certain amount of friction to engage quickly and smoothly...But up to you, you can try both, or read up more on the subject.
So it looks like you're just using the standard 3/8" drive to remove the drain plug and fill plug, correct?
ye, it might not go in all the way because of the two little teeth things that stick out of the 3/8 to hook to the ratchet attachments.
That is correct
Works in fk2 2016?
Do i really need to look in The over fill hole...just put in 2.3L as the book say?
Do you also recommend Amsoil synchromesh for a transmission fluid change?
Amasky_FK8 that’s also a good fluid that would work well.
Does the 2.0L NA take 2.0 quarts as well?
Hi, i seem to have difficulty finding the part 3 of this series
We have not yet updated it. Will keep you posted.
What about changing diff fluid? What interval do you recommend changing that at? And if the same synchromesh fluid is used for both, does it make sense to change that and the M/T fluid at the same time?
Also looking forward to your brake fluid video...
Would you recommend Motul DOT 5.1 (as opposed to RBF 600) for daily-driving?
The FWD Civic does not have a separate Diff. Everything is housed inside the transaxle as shown in this video. Changing the fluid-like so is draining and changing the transmission and differential fluid.
It is only 1 bottle
I have a question what oil is compatible with the diff, because i have a 2018 ctr and from time to time i have gear grind some people recommend changing the oil with more expensive oil. example redline mt90 i believe it was.
It's not about more expensive. The people telling you to step up to MT90, are telling you to step up in viscosity. From the factory 75/80 to a 75/90. That's a difference of going from like a ~10 to a ~15 CSt at 100°C. That's quite a jump. I would not really recommend that unless your car is heavily modified for more power, or you track it regularly. If you live in a really hot environment, that's hot most year round, you can try and step up to a 75/85, which takes you up to about a 12-12.5 CSt at 100°C. Though again it shouldn't really need that if it's not modified. Just going with a higher quality gear oil should help solve some of the problems you may be having with gear grind. Options I would recommend for daily driving and light unmodified track use are:
- Redline MTL (75W/80W)
- Amsoil Synchromesh
- ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified
You can read up on the user experiences with these fluids. Personally while I love and use Amsoil Signature motor oil, I prefer either the Redline MTL or the ACDelco, gear oil. Though you can't really go wrong with either of the 3.
i know you showed a picture of the level check hole. can you provide more detail? im having trouble finding it. thank you
jun kazama give us a call and we can help.
Check out this post for some photos!
www.civicx.com/forum/threads/transmission-fluid-check-bolt-is-there-one-on-the-type-r.40773
He's yummy!!!