If you found this video helpful, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience: 0:00 How To Graft Fruit Trees 1:32 Rootstock Grafting VS. Scion Wood 3:06 Introduction To Grafting Tool 4:47 Cutting The Scion Wood 5:53 Cutting The Roostock 7:07 Mating Scion Wood And Rootstock 7:48 Securing The Graft 10:09 Removing Root Stock Buds 10:56 Final Grafting Results 12:20 Adventures With Dale
I like this tool and have used it a couple times with no success. I wish they would have made the cut a little longer and deeper because they are very hard to wrap with the film.
Excellent video. Thank you very much. he first time I saw grafting a fig tree was 66 years ago. I was 4. My grandfather was a Sicilian imigrant, and he loved his figs. He used a very sharp folding pocket knife, and some melted parafin. Instead of grafting to a piece of rootstock, he grafted to a side branch on one of his Italian fig trees. He had 3 different varieties of figs growing on the same tree. He cut the he was grafting into the female open shape, and the branch of the host tree into the solid male end. He wrapped the graft tighly with a strong cotton string (like butcher string), and then sealed it with parafin. He had done the same type of grafting with apple and cherry trees. He had a bi-colored red and yellow cherry tree, and an apple tree that produced 5-6 different varieties of apples. This tool would have pleased and delighted him. Thanks for bringing back that memory. And thanks for the grafting instructions. They will be put to very good use.
We call that a "frankenfig." I would love to do something like that, but we can get cold damage in my climate, so I don't do a lot of grafting because we risk having all the grafts lost in a bad freeze. If you live in a place where it doesn't freeze, that would be a great way to grow tons of varieties in a very small space. Thanks for watching!
My Dad taught me grafting on Apple trees. SHARP knife, grafting wax, a splitting tool, and bandaids. I still have a scar on my right index finger from a "knife slip" that took me to the emergency room for stitches. Every time I graft, I remember that "slip".
I’ve had this tool for a couple years and a lot of people talk trash about it but that’s because they don’t know how to use it ! ...it’s worked great for me the grafts heal nice every time .
I've found that to be the case. It seems it's scoffed at by those that are good at grafting. However, the actual user reviews are really fantastic. I really think this is a great bridge for the novice. Glad to hear you've had success.
@@juliosdiy3206 It works ok of soft woods but will NOT work on any hard woods. Basically the blade is not sharp enough to penetrate a hard wood and create a clean cut. I have been grafting for 15 year and bought it just to test. So if you are an experienced grafter stay away. A better tool is the scionon but at about 250 USD is a bit too much.
I bought the tool to use for apple grafting a couple of years ago. While the "fit" was perfect, it didn't create a strong enough union (no matter how well you taped it up). Between the birds, the squirrels, and the wind, I was left with one successful graft, out of about 30. Now, I just use a pair of hand pruners and a grafting knife, and have much better success.
Thanks for the tutorial it was very informative! I’ve never grafted before, but you made it look easy how you explained and showed us how it’s done. I’m definitely going to try it on some of my fig and mangoes trees.
Excellent tool, works great when scion and grafts are the same and not too thick. My favorite technique is T-bud, its the strongest and most successful for me.
Sounds like you're a lot more advanced than I am. On the couple grafts I've done, it's pretty fun and rewarding. I will be doing more. Thanks for watching!
A magnificent grafting tool. I will purchase one to do my grafting.I have a disability losing some fingers on my left hand, due to an accident. Using the grafting knife my success rate is less than 50%.It's hard to get a clean straight cut between the cambium layer.Thank you for sharing.
This tool should be very helpful. The downside is both the rootstock and scion wood all need to be roughly half an inch in diameter and you can't use it on very thick and very thin wood, but it definitely simplifies the process. Thanks for watching!
Why did you cover the tip of scion with clear tape?or it appears to be. I’m not talking about the grafted part. If true doesn’t that prevent the grafted part from budding? By looking at new leaf on your plant, it seems you removed the clear tape.
I had thought about using one of those tools but the mixed reviews kinda steered me away. I'll probably chip bud my apple trees next year. Might also try it on our apricots once the trees get larger. JSacadura has some amazing grafting videos.
Yes, he does. Watching him really makes me feel pretty bad :) He's a professional. I'm sure he would laugh at one of these tools. However, if you're dealing with rootstock and scion both of pencil thickness, it's pretty convenient.
I have the same tool but I never use it. After watching this video I feel motivated to use it. I just use a very sharp box cutter because you can do thinner scions with a blade. But I will try it out on my mulberries that I need to graft
This tool is for grafts of a very specific diameter. It won't be useful if the wood is very thick or very thin. You need that nice pencil-to-pretzel-rod diameter. However, for those pieces of wood, they're really convenient! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for making this video. Very informative. I bought this tool yesterday because I accidentally cut myself so that was the end of using the razor blade old school grafting technique. 😂
Awesome grafting video !@@! Well done! Your botanical nomenclature is amazing: explaining all of the "parts and pieces" of grafting woody stem parts, and also the importance of lining up the cambium layer. I have purchased a similar grafting tool, but have found that the cuts are not as clean as I wanted. I will give it a try again. Kind regards, David
Excellent tutorial. One of the limitations I found with this tool is the diameter. If it happens to have a thick scion and root stock, you cannot fit them in the cutter.
Yes, these are not versatile. They're made for one thing: mating grafts when the wood is roughly equal diameter of about 1/2 or so. Too much larger or too much smaller and they become useless. However, they're great to learn on and great for production grafting when you're making lots of grafts of that perfect diameter.
It definitely is as long as the rootstock and wood are similar size and not too thick. You want roughly the thickness of a pencil to a pretzel rod. It works well in that situation. Thank you for watching.
That’s probably a valid point. I am doing this indoors so I have that luxury. I could see a spring storm causing problems. I still think this is a good tool to learn or make bulk cuts inside a greenhouse for production reasons.
In malaysia you can get a small bud grafted BNR for 30 dollars. The cuttings are about 12 dollars each. If i were to get a Bnr, i would rather just spend double to get the stable plant than try to root a cutting in case that particular one fails.
They are extremely rare here. Cuttings sell as high as $50 each. I definitely did not want to lose this one. I don’t plant grafted figs due to dieback fears, so the idea is if the graft takes to propagate the new wood and get it on its own feet.
I like that you actually took the time to wait and show us the results, quick question, I applied soluble fertilizer like you recommend, high nitrogen and one of my poded fig trees got sad leaves, it seems like over I fertilized it, but others 3 i have in pods seem to be doing ok, i think some varieties are more prone to over absorption of nitrogen, has this happened to you?
I got the tool and my first impression is that it is ok but not necessary. The scion and rootstock have to be the same diameter. Probably better to do a normal cleft graft with slight angle that ensures there is a contact. This tool would be a great idea for teaching kids/elderly how to graft, to avoid sharp knives. I am still going to try this - hopefully it will work.
@@TheMillennialGardener Yes! Going to use it for grafting Cacti(Mainly Opuntia), Lemon, Lime and Trifoliate Orange. All just for fun, lol. I need to look into if I'm able to graft my Citrus to the Trifoliate Orange rootstock, and maybe increase their cold tolerance a bit. Happy Spring! :)
Have you tried all 3 blade shapes? If so then how does the U shape work , and how does the Ω (Omega, horseshoe) shape work? I just got virtually the same exact thing under a different brand name. So far it seems like good quality, and it's certainly better than the last grafting tool that I bought which made a true v shape and sometimes even split the root sock apart in the way it cut. The blade was discontinued too. The new aged type that we bought, the blades that they use are used in way too many brands to not find replacements.
Excellent video. I was about to buy this tool, but was not sure how to use it. Your video solved the problem. I have an apple tree of unknown origin, and I’m thinking of grafting three varieties of apple onto this tree. Can the branches of the apple tree be the root stock ? Again, thanks for your excellent video.
I bought one of these and returned it to Amazon the next day. I could not get those freaking screws out to change the blade and ended up stripping the screws. It was ridiculous! Then I noticed lots of the reviews say the same thing. 🤔
You may have gotten a dud, or maybe you'd like a different brand better. I have the kit I used linked in my Amazon Storefront. I'm pretty happy with it, though I haven't tried to change out the blade yet.
Thanks for the video MG; I have ordered one of those tools also and hope to graft some White Madeira scions in the near future here in Victoria, BC. I think Dale would approve :)
Excellent.....I was talking to my wife about possibly trying some grafting. Not sure if I would use the tool or a knife, either way....It sounds fun. lol
Thank you for a very instructional video. I am planning to use my grafting tool to graft a pink Rose of Sharon onto a Blue Rose of Sharon plant (and vice-versa). I am trying to develop a plant that has both pink and blue blooms. Is that too ambitious? I live in the Pacific Northwest where it is now in mid-60s F. I have two 5-gal Rose of Sharon plants (one has pink flowers, one has blue flowers). Both of them have already started leafing. Should I strip the leaves off the trees before I start to graft? I have never grafted anything before and I was given 2 grafting tools. thank you!
The Parafilm? That's still on there as we speak and it's been 2-3 months at this point. You need to leave that on as long as possible for the graft to heal over. It eventually falls off on its own since it is biodegradable. I'm getting my 3rd leaf pushing out of the graft as we speak, so the graft is a success.
I was looking at a tool similar, I want to turn the Imperial mandarin tree we have into a 5 or 6 variety one, finding the scion wood is going to be hard. I know the cold weather has passed, but here in Melbourne Oz, we have had nice Autumn weather 24-28C (75-82F) which is nice before we start moving towards our winter temps
@@TheMillennialGardener Nowhere near what most temperate places get, our coldest month usually is June, where we get 1-6C at night (34-42F) and 9-14C during the day (48-57F). Most of the places outside the city in the rest of the state is colder. But the city gets about 4-8 light to medium frosts a year depending on the year and maybe a single heavy one of the outer suburbs. It's the bay we are on that keeps as warmer, and of course, we grow crops all year. That said where I am is in a unique I guess macroclimate of the city, on a place called Mornington Peninsula, we have Port Phillip Bay on one side, Westernport Bay the other, and Bass Strait to the south. This means we have fewer frosts, about 1-2 a year at best because of the moisture in the air but we are also colder on average. So I am thinking of planting a mango and possibly having high chill blueberries around it, most of Melbourne gets 650-750 chill hours we get 900-1200 with less frosts. I can find Apple, Pear, Stone fruit etc scions, citrus for some reason there is none. Might need to talk to nurseries
Useful video. Very clear. Btw, I think you used the ox bow blade and not the v blade. I’m wondering when to use the ox bow blade vs the v blade. Any thoughts on this?
I used the blade that came pre-installed. It's worked pretty well. It comes with other blade styles. I'm not sure what you call each, but this design has worked for me.
Greet from Slovakia. Thanks for the tutorial. Presentation was very informative. I have been using this tool for several years. It is very important to plan all the steps well. All things must be ready for work. The work must not last more than 1 minute. The male graft should be placed in a nutrient solution or clean water immediately after cutting. The first three turns of the tape on the stem should be done before cutting to save time and simplify handling.
I got into grafting this year and started with this tool. I then switched to a grating knife. Every graft with the tool failed. Every one I did with the knife has taken. I mostly used whip and tongue grafts with the knife.
That's a shame to hear. Were the grafts performed outside? Because the grafts are shallow, these may not be good to graft directly on a tree outdoors since wind can disturb them. You really have to be sure the cambium layers are touching with this tool. So far, it's been successful for me.
@@TheMillennialGardener The grafts were done outside on apple and peach trees. I made sure cambium contact was good and wrapped them tight with grafting tape just like the manual grafts. I do see one big advantage to the too though. You can't cut yourself with it like you can with a grafting knife.
@donaldboyett7682 could always wear a protective glove for the hand you're cutting towards. But yes I like the idea of this tool so that I don't hurt myself either!
Hi, the problem is that the knifes and device comes with a lot of oil on it and when you try to make graft all the time its full of black oil in the knife and no matter how much u clean the device it gives black stuff and ruin the graft. for any solution i will be so greatful
It has to be easily removable. Otherwise, you will break the fragile graft. Rubber bands are ideal, because you can simply cut them off with a utility knife. If you use something you'll have difficulty removing, your tree will be destroyed.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks I’m gonna give it a go they are quite supple on cables I’ve just bought a field and have 300m of sloe trees around it and I want to try and graft other fruits to them randomly along the hedges if it’s possible 👍🏼🇬🇬
I've heard the grafting tool is not ideal for avocados. Unfortunately I bought one to do just that. I've experimented with some roses while I wait for some avo scion wood.
@@TheMillennialGardener I believe it's because the cambium layer gets damaged from the tool. Anyway, I'm going to do half with the tool and half with a knife and see what the results are.
@@budstik that’s a good idea. Keep in mind it is easy to sharpen a knife but you can’t really sharpen these blade attachments once they dull. You’ll need to replace them or buy a new tool.
How much did it rain? If it was a light or moderate rain, I wouldn't worry about it. If it was a torrential heavy downpour that washed out your containers, instead of waiting for 10-14 days to fertilize again, I'd follow up in 7 days if you actually witnessed the washout. At this time of the year, you can get away with this because fertilizer demand isn't through the roof yet, so I wouldn't worry about it. When trees are fully leafed out and fruiting, the demand for food becomes a lot higher.
I grafted white Madeira, black Madeira, and LSU tiger to an in ground Celeste I have. I plan to air layer the Madeira’s off, And graft more common varieties permanently to the Celeste.
@@jailenc6674 nice. Sounds like a good plan. I wouldn’t recommend grafting figs due to their propensity to be killed to the ground unless you’re in a freeze free climate. If you graft permanently, you could lose all your scion wood.
I don't own any apple trees (yet), but it should work the same on every tree. Every time I've used the tool with the appropriately-sized wood, it has worked. It is only for grafting where both the rootstock and scion wood is about the thickness of a #2 pencil, so keep that in mind. If you are grafting two pieces of wood that have very different thicknesses, or if you want to chip-bud graft, you'll have to use a knife.
This grafting tool is only applicable to species with softer wood. As a result, the cutting blades wear out quickly and are easy to fold on harder wood.
This tool is designed for cuttings that are around 1/4" in diameter. Nothing 1/4" in diameter is that hard, because that growth is generally new and tender. The tool won't last forever, but they're pretty inexpensive and you can always replace the blades. They work fine for figs, which are fairly hard wood.
No. Grafting tomatoes is a lot of work and can be expensive. Where we live, tomato plants get destroyed in July thanks to our humidity, so I do not see the value in it. Assuming it actually increases production and vigor, I only see value in regions where indeterminate tomatoes can survive all summer long and continually produce, which doesn't really happen here. If you have a way of protecting your tomatoes so they can somehow survive our summers, it may be of some value, but ask yourself if the extra steps are worth it if your tomatoes will simply be killed in July from our humidity and hot nights. I could be wrong and maybe there are some benefits to it, but my tomatoes set fruit so aggressively in April and early May that I would find it tough to believe I'd get a whole lot more production while the weather still allows. Maybe I'm wrong, but it's a big extra step for plants that'll be dead by August 1.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for taking the time to respond and I hear you on every point. That is one of the reasons I want to try grafting….getting a rootstock that is made for the heat…DRO141TX. I am planning an experiment where I plant a rootstock and scion in the same seed cell. I will then side graft the two without the need to transplant them to another pot. This will be done in a 50 cell tray. Going to keep rootstock on the right and scion on the left and eventually join with a side union using parafilm (no clips). If the grafts hold, I will plant them as a two to one (not grafted) per variety. I’ve never had my tomatoes out prior to may/june. So we will see what happens.
I had one like it, my son gave it to me at Christmas and I grafted almost 20 cuts, none, or nothing caught me. The fact that a leaf has grown does not mean anything, it is the same when one tries to root, there are some who take leaves but not roots.
True about leaves and rooting but when rooting you are typically talking about a 6 inch piece of wood. There is no way that the 2 inch grafted piece of wood had the energy to sustain a leaf of that size. It's more likely than not that the graft took.
These have bonded together. It looks pretty good. You can see the wood healing over underneath the parafilm. I used this tool on my Col de Dame Gegantina last year and the graft took perfectly. You really have to be careful and make sure that the cambium layers match up. When the wood is the appropriate diameter, these tools work well.
Precisely. You can't get a leaf this size out of a bud the size of a pencil eraser. The next bud is starting to open as well. You can see the wood has healed over, so I'm pretty confident that this graft will hold. My CdD Gegantina was a success last year, so I know these tools can work when you mate cambium together.
2:50 if you are successful at grafting then you can have more opportunities to get a successful root with your own cuttings from the grafted tree. Hope your BNR grows so you can share : D
Since this video, it's put out 3 new leaves, so the graft appears to be a success. It's starting to take off, so I'm very pleased. Next year, I'll probably try more grafts on rootstocks to help hedge my bets with the cuttings as I don't have the greatest success % with rooting.
It is the first link in all of my video descriptions after initially describing the video contents. Hit SEE MORE if you're on a desktop or hit the down arrow underneath the title if you're on mobile.
I highly doubt it. Grafts need to be well-secured. Most grafters use either lots of Parafilm, grafting tape, and then further reinforce with rubber bands.
Grafting tools are good for beginners, but it lacks the flexibility of using a grafting knife, especially when the width of the scionwood and rootstock twig don't match up.
The power of the tool is in how you use it. These are great to learn on, and great if you need to perform a lot of grafts on appropriately sized wood. They won't be good for large branches or for outdoor trees that are exposed to a lot of wind since the cuts aren't deep. If you're going to need to make 25 grafts inside a greenhouse on pencil-thick wood, these tools are going to outperform a grafting knife, but they lack the versatility. Thanks for watching!
I have this tool and do not like it, i tried it many times and have a low rate of succes, i think that the lenght of the cuts are not long enough so not enough cambium contact, also when i tied the graft joints with rubber bands, the cuts even though look precise and tight will slip off with the pressure. I went back to grafting manually. I rather graft that root cuttings.
I purchased my barrels during a Black Friday clearance sale for $156 shipped for both of them. Prices will vary based on the time of year and availability.
The tool has to be flipped so you can cut both the scion and rootstock at matching angles. After you make the cut on the scion (which will end in a 'V' shape, 'U' shape or Omega depending on the cutting tool you use), you have to flip the tool so you cut the rootstock at the opposite angle so it can accept the 'V'. Otherwise, you'll wind up with two outward 'V's that won't mate.
It seems to work very well if you ask me. The blades will eventually dull and have to be replaced, so it is unfair to compare a sharp knife with dull blades. Because of their design, you can’t really sharpen them.
We had a really rough winter. Last year was pretty mild and wrapping them saved them all. This year, despite the same wrapping, none are showing life. There is a good chance most, if not all, will have to restart from the rhizome. Last year, all of them were periodically pushing green growth but this year, everything is lifeless. I'm probably going to unwrap them next weekend since our last frost date is typically this week and our lowest low on the 15-day forecast is 44.
![How To ROOT PRUNE FRUIT TREES In Containers [Complete Guide]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-oOwNiZzGmM/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To ROOT PRUNE FRUIT TREES In Containers [Complete Guide]](/img/tr.png)
If you found this video helpful, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience:
0:00 How To Graft Fruit Trees
1:32 Rootstock Grafting VS. Scion Wood
3:06 Introduction To Grafting Tool
4:47 Cutting The Scion Wood
5:53 Cutting The Roostock
7:07 Mating Scion Wood And Rootstock
7:48 Securing The Graft
10:09 Removing Root Stock Buds
10:56 Final Grafting Results
12:20 Adventures With Dale
How did it do over the summer?
I like this tool and have used it a couple times with no success. I wish they would have made the cut a little longer and deeper because they are very hard to wrap with the film.
Yes, several times but unfortunately has no success
How did it do on stone fruits?
Excellent lesson, absolutely helpful.
Excellent video. Thank you very much.
he first time I saw grafting a fig tree was 66 years ago. I was 4. My grandfather was a Sicilian imigrant, and he loved his figs.
He used a very sharp folding pocket knife, and some melted parafin.
Instead of grafting to a piece of rootstock, he grafted to a side branch on one of his Italian fig trees. He had 3 different varieties of figs growing on the same tree.
He cut the he was grafting into the female open shape, and the branch of the host tree into the solid male end. He wrapped the graft tighly with a strong cotton string (like butcher string), and then sealed it with parafin.
He had done the same type of grafting with apple and cherry trees. He had a bi-colored red and yellow cherry tree, and an apple tree that produced 5-6 different varieties of apples.
This tool would have pleased and delighted him.
Thanks for bringing back that memory. And thanks for the grafting instructions. They will be put to very good use.
We call that a "frankenfig." I would love to do something like that, but we can get cold damage in my climate, so I don't do a lot of grafting because we risk having all the grafts lost in a bad freeze. If you live in a place where it doesn't freeze, that would be a great way to grow tons of varieties in a very small space. Thanks for watching!
My Dad taught me grafting on Apple trees. SHARP knife, grafting wax, a splitting tool, and bandaids. I still have a scar on my right index finger from a "knife slip" that took me to the emergency room for stitches. Every time I graft, I remember that "slip".
I’ve had this tool for a couple years and a lot of people talk trash about it but that’s because they don’t know how to use it ! ...it’s worked great for me the grafts heal nice every time .
I've found that to be the case. It seems it's scoffed at by those that are good at grafting. However, the actual user reviews are really fantastic. I really think this is a great bridge for the novice. Glad to hear you've had success.
Can u show us the trick b4 we waste our money n time?
@@juliosdiy3206 It works ok of soft woods but will NOT work on any hard woods. Basically the blade is not sharp enough to penetrate a hard wood and create a clean cut. I have been grafting for 15 year and bought it just to test. So if you are an experienced grafter stay away. A better tool is the scionon but at about 250 USD is a bit too much.
I bought the tool to use for apple grafting a couple of years ago. While the "fit" was perfect, it didn't create a strong enough union (no matter how well you taped it up). Between the birds, the squirrels, and the wind, I was left with one successful graft, out of about 30. Now, I just use a pair of hand pruners and a grafting knife, and have much better success.
Same
Thanks for the tutorial it was very informative! I’ve never grafted before, but you made it look easy how you explained and showed us how it’s done. I’m definitely going to try it on some of my fig and mangoes trees.
Glad it was helpful! Definitely give it a try. It is a lot of fun and worth practicing. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this. I bought this tool about a year ago to use around this time. Now I know how to use it. Great content!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your video, I just got this tool but I don’t know how to use it, after I saw it, I thought I can do it
Thanks again.
Excellent tool, works great when scion and grafts are the same and not too thick. My favorite technique is T-bud, its the strongest and most successful for me.
Sounds like you're a lot more advanced than I am. On the couple grafts I've done, it's pretty fun and rewarding. I will be doing more. Thanks for watching!
A magnificent grafting tool. I will purchase one to do my grafting.I have a disability losing some fingers on my left hand, due to an accident. Using the grafting knife my success rate is less than 50%.It's hard to get a clean straight cut between the cambium layer.Thank you for sharing.
This tool should be very helpful. The downside is both the rootstock and scion wood all need to be roughly half an inch in diameter and you can't use it on very thick and very thin wood, but it definitely simplifies the process. Thanks for watching!
Why did you cover the tip of scion with clear tape?or it appears to be. I’m not talking about the grafted part. If true doesn’t that prevent the grafted part from budding? By looking at new leaf on your plant, it seems you removed the clear tape.
Thanks for the video. I have the same tool but i never succeeded with it.
With a grafting knife i have succeeded in several types of grafting.
Great video. Thanks so much!
Excellent and informative video, thanks!!!
I had thought about using one of those tools but the mixed reviews kinda steered me away. I'll probably chip bud my apple trees next year. Might also try it on our apricots once the trees get larger. JSacadura has some amazing grafting videos.
Yes, he does. Watching him really makes me feel pretty bad :) He's a professional. I'm sure he would laugh at one of these tools. However, if you're dealing with rootstock and scion both of pencil thickness, it's pretty convenient.
I have the same tool but I never use it. After watching this video I feel motivated to use it. I just use a very sharp box cutter because you can do thinner scions with a blade. But I will try it out on my mulberries that I need to graft
This tool is for grafts of a very specific diameter. It won't be useful if the wood is very thick or very thin. You need that nice pencil-to-pretzel-rod diameter. However, for those pieces of wood, they're really convenient! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for making this video. Very informative. I bought this tool yesterday because I accidentally cut myself so that was the end of using the razor blade old school grafting technique. 😂
Very interesting, might buy one myself. Quick question. When the bud was swelling did you cut the tape away. Looked like it but just checking. Cheers
No. Parafilm will break down and fall off on its own. You cannot remove it until the graft is fully healed over.
Awesome grafting video !@@! Well done!
Your botanical nomenclature is amazing: explaining all of the "parts and pieces" of grafting woody stem parts, and also the importance of lining up the cambium layer. I have purchased a similar grafting tool, but have found that the cuts are not as clean as I wanted. I will give it a try again.
Kind regards,
David
Let us know how the grafts go. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Wooow awes00me!11
CovEreD tHe basics oF cAmBIUm alignment! 11
I just bought a pair of those thanks for the info really
Excellent tutorial. One of the limitations I found with this tool is the diameter. If it happens to have a thick scion and root stock, you cannot fit them in the cutter.
Yes, these are not versatile. They're made for one thing: mating grafts when the wood is roughly equal diameter of about 1/2 or so. Too much larger or too much smaller and they become useless. However, they're great to learn on and great for production grafting when you're making lots of grafts of that perfect diameter.
@@TheMillennialGardener Yes! I have found the same issue...I am attempting Apple grafts.
How can they be great to learn grafting when they mean you don't have to learn...
Good explanation of how to use the tool and do the grafting. Thanks for share your video amigo, excellent,
You're welcome! Thank for watching!
We have a couple apple trees I think I need to graft (just not pollinating as well as we hoped). This looks like a pretty handy tool
It definitely is as long as the rootstock and wood are similar size and not too thick. You want roughly the thickness of a pencil to a pretzel rod. It works well in that situation. Thank you for watching.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you for sharing
*Excellent tutorial, content and Great closeups. I appreciate this content. Thank you for sharing.*
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
The tool looks amazing. I’m sold.
I'm glad it was informative. Thanks for watching!
The only drawback that I've found is the cut/union isn't very deep. So when they are outside in wind or storms, the graft tends not to stay connected.
That’s probably a valid point. I am doing this indoors so I have that luxury. I could see a spring storm causing problems. I still think this is a good tool to learn or make bulk cuts inside a greenhouse for production reasons.
Attach supporting splints, you can do it, I believe in you
@@nicholas919cleare thanks for your support, but I'll just use my graphing knife
Just use whip and tongue and ignore gimmicks.
That's exactly what I was thinking. The graft looks very short.
Thanks for the demostration!
Glad it was helpful!
I prefer grafting using shaver blade than using the tools like in this vdeo btw thanks for sharing your grafting knowledge....
Great presentation. Thank you so much!
Very good demonstration. Thank you sir.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you pal. Got mine last year but late in the season. Glad you have demonstrated it for us. Can’t wait to use it. All the best happy figgin.
I'm glad the video was helpful. Good luck with yours! It's pretty fun. Thanks for watching!
In malaysia you can get a small bud grafted BNR for 30 dollars. The cuttings are about 12 dollars each. If i were to get a Bnr, i would rather just spend double to get the stable plant than try to root a cutting in case that particular one fails.
They are extremely rare here. Cuttings sell as high as $50 each. I definitely did not want to lose this one. I don’t plant grafted figs due to dieback fears, so the idea is if the graft takes to propagate the new wood and get it on its own feet.
Great review I just got one for my birthday today.
That's awesome! Happy birthday!
Have just bought one and made a few trial cuts after watching your video ,works great but agree the cuts are not very deep
I like that you actually took the time to wait and show us the results, quick question, I applied soluble fertilizer like you recommend, high nitrogen and one of my poded fig trees got sad leaves, it seems like over I fertilized it, but others 3 i have in pods seem to be doing ok, i think some varieties are more prone to over absorption of nitrogen, has this happened to you?
I got the tool and my first impression is that it is ok but not necessary. The scion and rootstock have to be the same diameter. Probably better to do a normal cleft graft with slight angle that ensures there is a contact. This tool would be a great idea for teaching kids/elderly how to graft, to avoid sharp knives.
I am still going to try this - hopefully it will work.
Very good video, thanks.
Did you remove the tape or did the bud cut through the tape on its own? When do you remove the tape?
Very cool vid bro... Been very helpful. May God bless you.
Thank you! I appreciate that 😊Glad I could help.
Super informative. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
That's awesome! Can't wait to try mine out. :)
You purchased one? Cool! What will you be grafting?
@@TheMillennialGardener Yes! Going to use it for grafting Cacti(Mainly Opuntia), Lemon, Lime and Trifoliate Orange. All just for fun, lol.
I need to look into if I'm able to graft my Citrus to the Trifoliate Orange rootstock, and maybe increase their cold tolerance a bit.
Happy Spring! :)
@@RealBradMiller trifoliate accepts the overwhelming majority of citrus. If you find what you want doesn’t, another good option is flying dragon.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for the info, that's really good to know. I'll put it to good use!
Have you tried all 3 blade shapes? If so then how does the U shape work , and how does the Ω (Omega, horseshoe) shape work? I just got virtually the same exact thing under a different brand name. So far it seems like good quality, and it's certainly better than the last grafting tool that I bought which made a true v shape and sometimes even split the root sock apart in the way it cut. The blade was discontinued too. The new aged type that we bought, the blades that they use are used in way too many brands to not find replacements.
I have only used the V blade that comes pre-installed. I do not do much grafting, so this tool will last me quite awhile.
Excellent video. I was about to buy this tool, but was not sure how to use it. Your video solved the problem. I have an apple tree of unknown origin, and I’m thinking of grafting three varieties of apple onto this tree. Can the branches of the apple tree be the root stock ? Again, thanks for your excellent video.
I have a grow room and it has heat and grow lights. How many hours of grow lights do you think this procedure needs? Thanks and God Bless!
Great video. thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I bought one of these and returned it to Amazon the next day. I could not get those freaking screws out to change the blade and ended up stripping the screws. It was ridiculous! Then I noticed lots of the reviews say the same thing. 🤔
You may have gotten a dud, or maybe you'd like a different brand better. I have the kit I used linked in my Amazon Storefront. I'm pretty happy with it, though I haven't tried to change out the blade yet.
Thanks for the heads up I just got mine from Amazon.
Thanks for the video MG; I have ordered one of those tools also and hope to graft some White Madeira scions in the near future here in Victoria, BC. I think Dale would approve :)
Dale approves of everything he gets to eat 😅 Good luck with the tool! It's a lot of fun. Thanks for watching!
Excellent.....I was talking to my wife about possibly trying some grafting. Not sure if I would use the tool or a knife, either way....It sounds fun. lol
It actually is pretty fun. Especially when you succeed. It is very rewarding. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for a very instructional video. I am planning to use my grafting tool to graft a pink Rose of Sharon onto a Blue Rose of Sharon plant (and vice-versa). I am trying to develop a plant that has both pink and blue blooms. Is that too ambitious? I live in the Pacific Northwest where it is now in mid-60s F. I have two 5-gal Rose of Sharon plants (one has pink flowers, one has blue flowers). Both of them have already started leafing. Should I strip the leaves off the trees before I start to graft? I have never grafted anything before and I was given 2 grafting tools. thank you!
Did you have to remove the plastic wrapping from the top ?
The Parafilm? That's still on there as we speak and it's been 2-3 months at this point. You need to leave that on as long as possible for the graft to heal over. It eventually falls off on its own since it is biodegradable. I'm getting my 3rd leaf pushing out of the graft as we speak, so the graft is a success.
😎thanks for sharing👍
You’re welcome!
BORDISSOT NEGRA RIMADA is the correct name of this fig.
I was looking at a tool similar, I want to turn the Imperial mandarin tree we have into a 5 or 6 variety one, finding the scion wood is going to be hard.
I know the cold weather has passed, but here in Melbourne Oz, we have had nice Autumn weather 24-28C (75-82F) which is nice before we start moving towards our winter temps
I imagine you don’t get freezes in Melbourne most years, correct? I would imagine there is some kind of bud wood exchange you could find locally.
If you look on Ebay also there will be a lot of people selling scion wood.
@@TheMillennialGardener Nowhere near what most temperate places get, our coldest month usually is June, where we get 1-6C at night (34-42F) and 9-14C during the day (48-57F). Most of the places outside the city in the rest of the state is colder. But the city gets about 4-8 light to medium frosts a year depending on the year and maybe a single heavy one of the outer suburbs. It's the bay we are on that keeps as warmer, and of course, we grow crops all year.
That said where I am is in a unique I guess macroclimate of the city, on a place called Mornington Peninsula, we have Port Phillip Bay on one side, Westernport Bay the other, and Bass Strait to the south. This means we have fewer frosts, about 1-2 a year at best because of the moisture in the air but we are also colder on average. So I am thinking of planting a mango and possibly having high chill blueberries around it, most of Melbourne gets 650-750 chill hours we get 900-1200 with less frosts.
I can find Apple, Pear, Stone fruit etc scions, citrus for some reason there is none. Might need to talk to nurseries
@@caseyjones3076 I have looked, none yet, but we are a few months too early.
Does the bud break out on it's on
Useful video. Very clear.
Btw, I think you used the ox bow blade and not the v blade.
I’m wondering when to use the ox bow blade vs the v blade.
Any thoughts on this?
I used the blade that came pre-installed. It's worked pretty well. It comes with other blade styles. I'm not sure what you call each, but this design has worked for me.
Greet from Slovakia. Thanks for the tutorial. Presentation was very informative. I have been using this tool for several years. It is very important to plan all the steps well. All things must be ready for work. The work must not last more than 1 minute. The male graft should be placed in a nutrient solution or clean water immediately after cutting. The first three turns of the tape on the stem should be done before cutting to save time and simplify handling.
Thank you so much
true it's amazing & helpful video
( ⛤⛤⛤⛤⛤)
Regards,
Thanks for watching!
I got into grafting this year and started with this tool. I then switched to a grating knife. Every graft with the tool failed. Every one I did with the knife has taken. I mostly used whip and tongue grafts with the knife.
That's a shame to hear. Were the grafts performed outside? Because the grafts are shallow, these may not be good to graft directly on a tree outdoors since wind can disturb them. You really have to be sure the cambium layers are touching with this tool. So far, it's been successful for me.
@@TheMillennialGardener The grafts were done outside on apple and peach trees. I made sure cambium contact was good and wrapped them tight with grafting tape just like the manual grafts. I do see one big advantage to the too though. You can't cut yourself with it like you can with a grafting knife.
@donaldboyett7682 could always wear a protective glove for the hand you're cutting towards. But yes I like the idea of this tool so that I don't hurt myself either!
Where is your link to the Parafilm?
do all scions HAVE to be new growth? what about old growth with a new bud?
Hi,
the problem is that the knifes and device comes with a lot of oil on it and when you try to make graft all the time its full of black oil in the knife and no matter how much u clean the device it gives black stuff and ruin the graft. for any solution i will be so greatful
After the tape. would Eletrical cable shrink wrap work better than an elastic band 🤷🏼♂️👍🏼🇬🇬
It has to be easily removable. Otherwise, you will break the fragile graft. Rubber bands are ideal, because you can simply cut them off with a utility knife. If you use something you'll have difficulty removing, your tree will be destroyed.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks I’m gonna give it a go they are quite supple on cables I’ve just bought a field and have 300m of sloe trees around it and I want to try and graft other fruits to them randomly along the hedges if it’s possible 👍🏼🇬🇬
I've heard the grafting tool is not ideal for avocados. Unfortunately I bought one to do just that. I've experimented with some roses while I wait for some avo scion wood.
Why do you think that’s the case? I’ve never grafted an avocado. I’m curious if there is a reason.
@@TheMillennialGardener I believe it's because the cambium layer gets damaged from the tool. Anyway, I'm going to do half with the tool and half with a knife and see what the results are.
@@budstik that’s a good idea. Keep in mind it is easy to sharpen a knife but you can’t really sharpen these blade attachments once they dull. You’ll need to replace them or buy a new tool.
I have around 300m of sloe berry trees around my field what could I graft to them 👍🏼🇬🇬
Thank you, I have never grafted, I have an small apple tree I want to graft..what the largest diammeter can it graft?
According to the item description, ideal sizes are 0.2"-0.55" for grafting.
Hi I followed your method of fertilizing the fig trees.same day it rained for about 24hrs after do i need to fertiliz them again? There in Containers.
How much did it rain? If it was a light or moderate rain, I wouldn't worry about it. If it was a torrential heavy downpour that washed out your containers, instead of waiting for 10-14 days to fertilize again, I'd follow up in 7 days if you actually witnessed the washout. At this time of the year, you can get away with this because fertilizer demand isn't through the roof yet, so I wouldn't worry about it. When trees are fully leafed out and fruiting, the demand for food becomes a lot higher.
@@TheMillennialGardener yes it rained hard for about 24hrs .thanks for the reply
2 years later. how did it grow
how bout using rubber balloons to hold together and waterproof?
Would it have been better if you reversed the male and femal
If the female is at the bottom it could trap water.
Been waiting on a grafting vid I did my own a few of my own just last week.
Nice. What did you graft?
I grafted white Madeira, black Madeira, and LSU tiger to an in ground Celeste I have. I plan to air layer the Madeira’s off, And graft more common varieties permanently to the Celeste.
@@jailenc6674 nice. Sounds like a good plan. I wouldn’t recommend grafting figs due to their propensity to be killed to the ground unless you’re in a freeze free climate. If you graft permanently, you could lose all your scion wood.
Do you have good result with the tool? For eg at apple
I don't own any apple trees (yet), but it should work the same on every tree. Every time I've used the tool with the appropriately-sized wood, it has worked. It is only for grafting where both the rootstock and scion wood is about the thickness of a #2 pencil, so keep that in mind. If you are grafting two pieces of wood that have very different thicknesses, or if you want to chip-bud graft, you'll have to use a knife.
This grafting tool is only applicable to species with softer wood. As a result, the cutting blades wear out quickly and are easy to fold on harder wood.
This tool is designed for cuttings that are around 1/4" in diameter. Nothing 1/4" in diameter is that hard, because that growth is generally new and tender. The tool won't last forever, but they're pretty inexpensive and you can always replace the blades. They work fine for figs, which are fairly hard wood.
Have you tried grafting tomatoes? I am going to do it this year and am just north of you in carteret county.
No. Grafting tomatoes is a lot of work and can be expensive. Where we live, tomato plants get destroyed in July thanks to our humidity, so I do not see the value in it. Assuming it actually increases production and vigor, I only see value in regions where indeterminate tomatoes can survive all summer long and continually produce, which doesn't really happen here. If you have a way of protecting your tomatoes so they can somehow survive our summers, it may be of some value, but ask yourself if the extra steps are worth it if your tomatoes will simply be killed in July from our humidity and hot nights. I could be wrong and maybe there are some benefits to it, but my tomatoes set fruit so aggressively in April and early May that I would find it tough to believe I'd get a whole lot more production while the weather still allows. Maybe I'm wrong, but it's a big extra step for plants that'll be dead by August 1.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for taking the time to respond and I hear you on every point. That is one of the reasons I want to try grafting….getting a rootstock that is made for the heat…DRO141TX. I am planning an experiment where I plant a rootstock and scion in the same seed cell. I will then side graft the two without the need to transplant them to another pot. This will be done in a 50 cell tray. Going to keep rootstock on the right and scion on the left and eventually join with a side union using parafilm (no clips). If the grafts hold, I will plant them as a two to one (not grafted) per variety.
I’ve never had my tomatoes out prior to may/june. So we will see what happens.
how do you know when to use the v the u or the omega blade
It's a personal preference. You can use the one you feel has the best result.
I had one like it, my son gave it to me at Christmas and I grafted almost 20 cuts, none, or nothing caught me. The fact that a leaf has grown does not mean anything, it is the same when one tries to root, there are some who take leaves but not roots.
True about leaves and rooting but when rooting you are typically talking about a 6 inch piece of wood. There is no way that the 2 inch grafted piece of wood had the energy to sustain a leaf of that size. It's more likely than not that the graft took.
These have bonded together. It looks pretty good. You can see the wood healing over underneath the parafilm. I used this tool on my Col de Dame Gegantina last year and the graft took perfectly. You really have to be careful and make sure that the cambium layers match up. When the wood is the appropriate diameter, these tools work well.
Precisely. You can't get a leaf this size out of a bud the size of a pencil eraser. The next bud is starting to open as well. You can see the wood has healed over, so I'm pretty confident that this graft will hold. My CdD Gegantina was a success last year, so I know these tools can work when you mate cambium together.
2:50 if you are successful at grafting then you can have more opportunities to get a successful root with your own cuttings from the grafted tree. Hope your BNR grows so you can share : D
Since this video, it's put out 3 new leaves, so the graft appears to be a success. It's starting to take off, so I'm very pleased. Next year, I'll probably try more grafts on rootstocks to help hedge my bets with the cuttings as I don't have the greatest success % with rooting.
Bon jour.
C'est parfait .
Je veux acheter une piece .
Vous pouvez m'envoyer les renseigement pour faire ca .
Mercie .
I have this item linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description. It's listed under Garden Accessories.
How do I access your Amazon market place? I’ve tried to locate it but been unsuccessful. Thanks
It is the first link in all of my video descriptions after initially describing the video contents. Hit SEE MORE if you're on a desktop or hit the down arrow underneath the title if you're on mobile.
Would a clothespin work to hold a graft together?
I highly doubt it. Grafts need to be well-secured. Most grafters use either lots of Parafilm, grafting tape, and then further reinforce with rubber bands.
👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Wher can i order hraftong tool
I have this item linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description.
Grafting tools are good for beginners, but it lacks the flexibility of using a grafting knife, especially when the width of the scionwood and rootstock twig don't match up.
The power of the tool is in how you use it. These are great to learn on, and great if you need to perform a lot of grafts on appropriately sized wood. They won't be good for large branches or for outdoor trees that are exposed to a lot of wind since the cuts aren't deep. If you're going to need to make 25 grafts inside a greenhouse on pencil-thick wood, these tools are going to outperform a grafting knife, but they lack the versatility. Thanks for watching!
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I have this tool and do not like it, i tried it many times and have a low rate of succes, i think that the lenght of the cuts are not long enough so not enough cambium contact, also when i tied the graft joints with rubber bands, the cuts even though look precise and tight will slip off with the pressure. I went back to grafting manually. I rather graft that root cuttings.
What kind of plants did you try grafting? Some trees may have thicker cambium than others. It seems to work pretty well with figs.
They were all figs my friend. Thanks
Really helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
How much muney
The item is linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description under the Garden Accessories list.
I payed $22.98 on amazon prime free shipping nice little kit.
price
I purchased my barrels during a Black Friday clearance sale for $156 shipped for both of them. Prices will vary based on the time of year and availability.
You showed how to cut the female with the blade but looked like you used the same blade for the male . .
The tool has to be flipped so you can cut both the scion and rootstock at matching angles. After you make the cut on the scion (which will end in a 'V' shape, 'U' shape or Omega depending on the cutting tool you use), you have to flip the tool so you cut the rootstock at the opposite angle so it can accept the 'V'. Otherwise, you'll wind up with two outward 'V's that won't mate.
Outside i would put the female cut over the male as a sort of roof to shed water.
Is it really work ?
Yes, these work pretty well for simple grafts.
It cushes the scion and doesn't allow the graft to take, it's a failure, get a grafting knife.
Thank you, very helpful but you are talking too fast.
You can slow the rate of the video to 0.75X in the settings.
A professional grafter suggested that tool is junk...better to use a sharp knife,you need a smooth cut,also buddy tape is better...
It seems to work very well if you ask me. The blades will eventually dull and have to be replaced, so it is unfair to compare a sharp knife with dull blades. Because of their design, you can’t really sharpen them.
for beginners its ok I tried modified cleft last year and all failed practice makes perfect.
Ngemeng aja...
The Alexander Grapevine Nursery in Napa Valley uses a tabletop machine grafter so there is no shame in acquiring a handheld grafting tool
I can't imagine grafting by hand commercially. There is always a better way! Assembly Line it!
How's your bananas?
We had a really rough winter. Last year was pretty mild and wrapping them saved them all. This year, despite the same wrapping, none are showing life. There is a good chance most, if not all, will have to restart from the rhizome. Last year, all of them were periodically pushing green growth but this year, everything is lifeless. I'm probably going to unwrap them next weekend since our last frost date is typically this week and our lowest low on the 15-day forecast is 44.