If you found this video helpful, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience: 0:00 3 Reasons Why You Must Root Prune Trees In Containers 2:09 Why You Must Prune The Tree After Root Pruning 2:53 How Often Should You Root Prune? 4:15 Required Tools For Root Pruning 6:20 How To Root Prune A Tree 10:31 How To Up Pot A Tree 12:17 How To Fertilize Fruit Trees After Potting 12:59 How To Prune A Fruit Tree 17:20 Adventures With Dale
Nice trees! Mine are already in 15 gal containers and I'm wondering how I root prune and get the sides of the root ball to fit back in the container. I certainly can't up-pot, as it's already quite heavy. Suggestions welcomed. Also, it's nice that you have manure you can trust. So much of it on the market has been poisoned by the feed given the animals. I just don't trust any brand anymore and don't know anyone who can actually verify their feed don't contain unwanted chemicals.
@@shashakeeleh5468 some ideas. The owner of figbid uses a sawzall to cut the root ball on all 4 sides making it into a square, than putting it back in the container with new soil and fertilizer. This video makes a good point of also cutting down the branches. Regarding manure, I buy organic 🐑 sheep manure hoping it has less chemicals.
@@Danielseven-ir2mq Thank you! That's what I was thinking about doing, but didn't want to harm the small roots. Don't see how I can help but take a few out sawing the sides down.
@@muneebiqbal5584 thank you. Oh I have videos on so many different trees. I have 45 varieties of figs, 8 varieties of citrus, 5 varieties of bananas, a persimmon, 2 varieties of pawpaw, a feijoa, an avocado, 7 different blueberries, 2 different blackberries, a raspberry, coffee, 2 types of strawberries...probably some other stuff I can’t think of. I have videos on all of them.
@@shashakeeleh5468 if you are able to get the root ball out, once you trim, it’ll obviously be smaller than when you started so it should fit back in easily, right? Wouldn’t it pop right back in? As for the manure, it is just bagged manure like from any store. I don’t believe there is any issue with “chemicals” or anything like that. I think the biggest garden myth on the internet is the myth of “leeching chemicals.” If the manure was toxic, it would harm the plant. If the plant is unharmed, the fruit will be fine. The way I look at it is anything that I grow is better than anything in the grocery store, so I don’t stress about it.
Hearing you talk about keeping the branches cut at the same height made me realise why my rose standards grow a little lopsided instead of nice round balls. Thanks
You're welcome! Symmetry is incredibly important. If your trees or bushes ever become lopsided, the larger side will become dominant, and if you let the tree grow out of balance for too long, the one side can become heavily favored and it'll be very difficult to correct the imbalance.
It’s for demonstration purposes. I wouldn’t go this slowly off camera, but I still use utility knife. Less is more with this kind of stuff. Figs can take more damage thanks to their vigor and dormancy, but if you take a sawzall to citrus or an avocado tree, you could do some damage since it is much more stressful to a tree that’s evergreen.
Brilliant video- you were born to teach- you could educate the masses on any subject. I have been so obsessed with my potted figs I had forgotten about a neglected potted quince, which I will attend to this week as we are moving into August ,our last month of winter in Australia. Your advice is just so much appreciated.
Only thing different I do is when you cut those bottom roots, I pull those roots out before I cut them off because most times they hit bottom or side of pot then grow back into the root ball and weave in and out all over the place, it takes some muscle but I keep pulling each root till I get it all the way out or it breaks,I usually end up with roots 4 ft long or even longer and I do this every year because my fig roots get root bound in 20 gal pots in one growing season. It's crazy how fast these trees and roots grow out in one season. I use promix hp, with coast of main products mixed in along with azos, bonemeal,lime, and garden tone every year for potting medium, then pretty much follow your soluble fertilizer regimen along w the fish fertilizer and the results can't be beat. Thanks for all your dedication and helpful videos, I have felt like a pro for the last few years now and my fig trees couldn't be happier
You really take your time... I use my reciprocating saw and just go to town on the root ball. Hasn't failed me yet. +1 on the fish fert. I use gallons each season.
I am very conservative with these trees. I’ve spent years on them, so I try and take my time. I go slower on these videos, though. Filming and demonstrating triples the time it takes to do these things.
Thank you for this video. I can no longer afford to upsize my fig trees with terra cotta pots. I knew root pruning was my next step but I was wary of the process. This removes all of the guess work. Thanks again...
I SO appreciate the date and location information you start your vids with!! Truly. Thank you SO much as it is important information for viewing videos from other zones!!
I'm curious how many figs you get from your up-potted trees. Seems like you'd need a few of them to get much of a crop? (We are in the Pacific Northwest so are trying to get a Desert King in a too-large ceramic pot to produce.) I've spent a few hours tonight watching your videos and must say they are the best available. So clear and linear with great explanations but not too long and the production values are perfect. Wishing you much success!
This will be my First year to plant fruit trees in a container, long term, Great Information that I needed to know and knew you could tell me!💞💞💞 THANK YOU!!! I'm also adding Fruit Tree feed sticks to my containers.
Thank you young sir for a well thought out and educational video. It is winter here in Sydney. I shall prune my fig tree tomorrow. I really does need it. I think I will use a large pot instead of the growbag this time. 👍👍
@@TheMillennialGardener You know it man! I'm transplanting an additional 6 Bush variety blueberries that I overwintered to add to my small orchard. About time now to prune them back to get them in their final homes. Perfect timing indeed!
@@shpuply very nice. I have 7 blueberry plants that are blooming that need to go into the ground at the end of month. I'm just waiting for the soil to acidify!
Perfect timing on your last few videos as I just ordered new containers to up-pot my figs and am getting ready to do that and root prune this weekend. As always, very helpful and great video! thanks!
@@TheMillennialGardener I had a credit with Home Depot so I ordered containers which cost me next to nothing , after the arrived yesterday I realized they weren’t going to work and ordered yours from the your Amazon page - can’t wait for them to get here
I have limited space in my backyard so I'm still growing in pots until I find a few varieties that I like enough to put into the ground. I have about (15) varieties in various stages of growth. My (2) White Marseilles (4th year) had their first crop last summer. I have learned a lot by following your channel. If I root prune my (2) Marseilles currently in 5 gallon pots and up pot will I sacrifice fruit production for this year?
Can you take a plant that is struggling in the ground and move it into a pot? For example, I have a tangelo tree that has struggled over the last 5 years. The soil is bad, grubs are ravaging the root, and it has a lot of dead small branches. I want to move it into a pot to see if it'll recover. If it does not, I'll just get another one.
@@TheMillennialGardener lol we get about 6 weeks of Winter which I've been told is a Summer in England 😆 So yes we don't get a true Winter here. I'll be dying in my sweat in less than 3 weeks 😩 The plants will love it though.
I need to root prune my pink guava. It's been in the same pot and mix for years. Been thinking about it for the last two weeks and luckily your video came out :) I also used your potting mix formula to up pot my strawberry guava and lemon guava. Once I uppot my figs I will use your potting mix formula also :)
Excellent! I'm glad the video was helpful to you. Since you're dealing with a tropical plant that doesn't have a dormancy period, remember that "less is more." You can be more aggressive with trees that have a dormancy period (figs, persimmons, apples, pears, peaches, etc.), but you must be more gentle with the evergreens since they'll suffer some shock. I find fish emulsion helps tremendously with shock.
Guava remove the topsoil n dig on the side of the pot keep for a couple of days in the sun in spring add composted chicken or cow manure with the soil n back fill water n add seaweed after every month top dress with fertiliser
I like the way you explained on how to do,it gives me the courage to root prune my fig when the right time comes.I have an 8 month old fig that is in its fruiting stage but dont know what variety it is.And a 3 month old BlackJack ,thank you so much again for the new learning,Godbless you and your family.
I’m glad it was helpful! Figs are forgiving because they grow so quickly, so they’re the perfect tree to learn on. Root pruning during dormancy is safest. Thanks for watching!
I have a ton of videos on figs if you search through my library with the keyword "figs." ruclips.net/user/TheMillennialGardenersearch?query=figs Hopefully that helps! Figs are so much fun to grow.
This was my year for root pruning, Some up potted, some not. Good video as usual. I do have some of those new pots you have coming....though I will not use them until next year.....gotta get while the gettins good. lol
With the way prices on everything have been climbing, it pays to be early. You’ll love them when you eventually use them. They’re the Cadillac of nursery pots 😂
Thanks. It is weed barrier. It is for permanent weed suppression and developing a hotter microclimate. I have a tutorial on it here: ruclips.net/video/XT1reOI1-5E/видео.html
You have the best looking potted figs I have seen. In regards to your potting mix, are the proportions .5 parts peat/coco coir; .25 parts Walmart Expert Gardener Potting Mix; and .25 parts compost?
That is what I potted all my previous plants in, yes. However, this year, Walmart did not get any Coco Coir bricks, at least in my location. Therefore, I had to switch to 3/4 Expert Gardener Potting Mix and 1/4 cow manure compost. So far, they are flourishing in my new black nursery containers, so this appears to be just as successful. I am very impressed with Walmart's Expert Gardener mix. It's the best quality I've found. I like it better than the compressed Promix cubes that everyone raves about and it's much easier to hydrate.
@@TheMillennialGardener my location as well . Didnt have coco coir blocks in 2020 and this season 2021. They did have their own brand in 2019 Gainesville Va. 50 miles outside of Wash DC
Have you ever tried a fabric air pruning grow bag? Seems to me you could drop the tree in the bag, then plant the bag into the container. Every so often remove the tree and cut back any roots growing outside the bag. Probably unnecessary but could serve as a guide. For my tomatoes at least the bags keep the plant from becoming root bound
The air pruning bags I've seen are made of a hard material. I've never seen them made of fabric. I would recommend avoiding fabric at all costs for perennials and trees due to the root weaving issue. The reason why I don't like the air pruning pots is because they will dry out rapidly. If you live in a climate with hot summers, you'll be watering like crazy. I recommend the hard nursery containers for this reason.
When the tree is finally in the container that you are able to lift the tree out . Do you still trim the roots back every couple years? Or at this point you should leave it alone?
My fig is ill and I’ve been told it is most likely root bound. There has been no growth and leaves are curling and falling off. . I’m in zone 9 so this is the worst possible time to root prune for several reasons. If I go through the work of root pruning now, how likely would it be that the tree would survive? Thank you😎🌵
Haha haha. I just did this for my meyer lemons, figs, sweet bay, and lime trees this weekend as well... I transplanted all my peppers, tomatoes, and herbs this weekend into my beds as well. Hope this 38° Friday night doesn't hurt them too bad!
@@TheRainHarvester on the coast and only 1 mile from the ocean I'm banking that temps will only hit that low (if they really do) for 30 min tops then shoot back up. I've seen forecasts for my area drastically off from what I really experience. Most likely will get into the low 40s.
Same thing here. It was 80 today and a low of 37 tomorrow night. I only planted 3 tomatoes so far, so we’ll see how it goes! It is supposed to be cloudy, so it likely won’t frost unless the forecast changes.
@@TheMillennialGardener I live in ILM as well. Never know when to plant. Its always a gamble, but to beat the blight and heat have to plant as early as possible to get a reasonable harvest on my heirloom tomatoes.
Great video. I need to up-pot 2 of my figs (I won't mess with the roots) and I have another that is being downsized from a 1/2 barrel to a 15 gallon pot. The one I'm downsizing will be root pruned to fit into the smaller container. It's not a great variety so if it gets shocked I'll be ok. It's a Kadota that already has a bunch of breba figs on it.
I recommend using fish emulsion after the heavy pruning. I find fish emulsion does miracles for transplanting and pruning shock. It's like magic. You can get it at Walmart, Home Depot and Lowes for $20 a gallon or $9 a quart.
Thanks for the video. I’m always learning from you. QUESTION: I noticed in the comments that you mentioned having videos on blueberries. I’m just getting into growing fruit trees and starting with blueberries. 1). Where are your videos for these? I went into your playlist and didn’t see any. 2). How long can fruit trees grow in pots? I live in zone 5 and can’t plant into the ground for several reasons. 3). You mentioned pruning your fig trees branches to the same height because of a growth hormone. Does this apply to all fruits? Blueberries are a bush. I ask because last year I planted two small plants and one grew really well and I am curious if I should prune it now before it wakes up or if the pruning you did was only because of up potting the tree?
1. I have blueberries. I bought them bare-root over the winter. They are in containers right now, they're flowering and leafing out. I haven't planted them yet because I'm waiting for my soil to acidify, so I do not have videos on blueberries, yet. 2. Depends on the tree. A fig tree can outgrow a smaller container in a matter of a summer. Dwarf citrus, lemons and limes can last in a container for years and be happy. Rootstock also makes a ton of difference. So does the amount of heat in your climate. Hotter climates = more growth per year = faster outgrowth of containers. 3. Yes, it applies to blueberries. They're trees just the same, meaning they're made of wood. The growth hormone concentrates in the apical buds, which are the "highest" buds on the trees. Lower buds generate less hormones so they grow slower or not at all.
@@TheMillennialGardener I read last week where you said you had 7 blueberries as well as a lot of other fruiting trees and that you had videos on all of them. That’s why I went looking. That’s ok because it would be great to have a video made on how to plant a blueberry in a pot and watch you care for it during the seasons. I’m only a year ahead of you so your videos on blueberry growing in pots would be EXTREMELY helpful!!!! Please make one. I look forward to reading your reply to this request. Thanks
Just root pruned a potted crabapple tree before we put it in the ground. It really needed it, especially near the bottom and lower parts of the sides. I used a serrated soil knife to cut all the edges vertically, then shaved all the edges to catch the noticeable encircling roots that were exposed (you can find more just running your fingers down the edges). TBH I think I prefer starting with bare root trees... Some issues with crossing roots are right next to the trunk.
@@TheMillennialGardener It's mostly decorative (royal raindrops is the variety, very cool leaf color and shape). Having better pollination of the other apples nearby is a bonus. I don't think I'd use the fruit for anything, but it might distract the wildlife from our other plants :)
@@TheMillennialGardener Hah! I try to be thorough when planning. Most of the plants in the yard are a mix of native plants, decorative plants (like flowering xeric plants for our arid region) and stuff that fruits. The mix of stuff with broad bloom times seems to really help the pollinators and other beneficials (predators). Hoping to eventually have less and less pest issues if I think of my yard as a system and not just a bunch of plants. :)
I live in the tropics so i have no winter dormant period. Should i choose rainy season instead to root prune? Draught season is so extreme nowadays, so hot and pots dried out so quick.
Hey brother, wondering if you heard of or seen self wicking tubs? Especially from this gentleman named Leon, gardening with Leon. Would love for you to let us know your thoughts on that! Thank you.
I have seen people make homemade tubs. I haven’t bothered, as it would be expensive to set up. I am hoping to set up drip irrigation this spring and automate the whole process for my containers.
Hello newbie here. Today I planted a fairly large Acacia tree (that was in a 15 gallon pot). I had a feeling the roots looked weird, but planted it anyway. I went on RUclips and sure enough it appears my tree is root bound. Ugh. Should I dig up my tree and unbound the roots asap? Or wait?
Thanks for watching. I haven’t been able to verify the variety yet due to fruit drop, so I won’t be offering it until I can be sure it is labeled properly.
Up-potting should be done before the growing season starts. You should be up-potting now or earlier to prepare for the warm season. After that, you shouldn't be up-potting until at least the following season. These trees won't be up-potted beyond the #15 container shown in this video. I will never go larger than this. Thanks for watching!
This is a great informative video! Thank you for taking the time. Would adding fertilizers to the new soil mix burn the roots for fig trees? For example, something like Plant-Tone?
If you're speaking of granulated organic fertilizers, no, because they are not immediately usable by plants. They have to be eaten by the microbes and fungi in the soil, then excreted back out. The plants can then use it after it has been digested by soil life. But, this is also why only using granulated organic fertilizers in containers doesn't work very well. There is very limited soil microbiology in a small container, so you need to supplement with soluble fertilizers like MiracleGro crystals, which doesn't need to be digested by soil life. As long as you use the water soluble fertilizers in the dosages recommended by the manufacturer, they will not burn anything.
I have my trees in hugh pots with the bottoms cut out so nutrients wont scatter and the roots can still go into the ground...do i still need special pruning technique or is tipical pruning and care. O. K.
Great video. In a zone 6, can I root prune in early winter instead of late winter? I want to reduce the space needed for storage, then come spring replant it in the same 15 gallon pot
As long as they are dormant, you can prune. If they’re dormant now, you could prune if you want. I like waiting until late winter, because I like to add fertilizer to the fresh mix. If you prune now, you won’t want to fortify your mix with heavy fertilizer, because you don’t want to trigger growth. This is why I think it is ideal to wait, but if you can’t, you can do it early and use much less fertilizer.
Fabric grow bags are fine for annual vegetables, but I'd actually really discourage them for growing trees. They can really be harmful in the long run, because the trees will eventually destroy the bags, and the bags can destroy the trees in the process. I made a video describing how they killed some of my trees here: ruclips.net/video/0Yhcu0gZvHo/видео.html
I have always heard to never fertilize a plant that you have transplanted! I watch many videos and they all say to wait until it has gone through transplant shock! Now I am really confused! Everybody seems to do things differently!
Can you do this with an apple tree and does it keep the tree short? It’s my first year trying an apple tree in a grow bag! Also will a grow bag substitute for root pruning? Thank you!
Great vid G! I don't have container figs but I'm working on it and have a couple questions. Did you notice there were no old brown roots on a side of the root ball and do you know if that side was pointed north? Also, the bonsai people trim off the fat roots and leave the fine roots because they are "much more efficient". It seems like bigger roots would be better because they have more surface area but I don't know. Maybe you could try both ways and make a video about it?
@@BlackJesus8463 there are three main types of roots- the fat orange ones, which are moderately lignified and only store water; the smooth white ones, which store water and can grow tertiary hair roots; and tertiary hair roots, which are nearly naked to the invisible eye (except when the plant is really thirsty and growing tons of fluffy white root hairs in desperation). The fatter the white roots get, the fewer root hairs they put out, and the more they become primary roots… and eventually, a successful tertiary hair will mature into a secondary white root, and grow hairs of its own. What you don’t want is a whole bunch of orangey, barkey, or heavily lignified primary roots displacing all the dirt and leaving no space for the secondary roots to proliferate and produce tertiary roots, or for tertiary roots to mature. In the ground, massive primary roots are water tanks that help the plant survive droughts; in containers, massive primary (and very mature, nearly-primary secondary) roots are just turning dirt space into water storage, not knowing or caring that you’re standing by with a water hose during a drought! So if your root ball is mostly orange and woody, it’s time to chop off some of it and replace that useless water storage with dirt where young secondary roots can explore and grow their tertiaries. I have a fig in a big container (like the one he’s up-potting to in this video) and I root prune about every other year, taking about a third of the root ball- it bears super heavily by the end of summer every time!
I have a dwarf lemon tree in a whiskey barrel and just found some roots about 6 feet outside of the barrel. I've had it for 4 years and it has never beard fruit. I fertilize it every year and it does flower alot. Should I prune the roots all the way to the bottom of the barrel?
That's odd. Meyer lemons fruit very early and profusely. Mine fruited after about 15 months, and at 18 months, it's flowering so heavily it's crazy. I would say you need to do a few things: 1. Root prune. 2. Prune the actual tree itself. Remove about 25% of the volume of the branches and cut them all to equal lengths. 3. Make sure you fertilize it. They are heavy feeders. Give it soluble fertilizer, like MiracleGro 24-8-16. Container trees don't respond well to only organic granulated fertilizers, because they lack the soil microbiology to process the organic fertilizers well. I'm interested what your climate is. If it is flowering but is dropping all its fruit, it's either an issue with inconsistent fertilizing, inconsistent watering, not enough sun, or too much sun. Too much sun is unlikely, because these trees usually flower in early spring before the sun is too intense. However, if that is the case and you live in a brutally sunny climate, it may benefit from some 30% shade cloth. If that isn't the case, you may need to give it more sun, more food and more even watering. Citrus also enjoy being periodically dried out. Underwatering a bit is surprisingly better than too much water with container grown citrus.
Yes. However, I would discourage against growing fruit trees in grow bags. I did this and both trees grew through the bag, and when I tried to remove them, the feeder roots sewed themselves into the fabric. I had to cut the bags off and the trees wound up dying from the extensive damage. I would urge using a hard container for trees because they can be removed more easily.
I do make cuttings available in the winter, but the season has passed. I have info here and only a couple left: ruclips.net/video/rA5V2QPcpzw/видео.html I will have more in January.
Typically in winter when the plants are growing as slowly as possible. For citrus, make sure you harvest them completely before you root prune. Don't root prune a plant with fruit on it. It will be too stressful.
I'm in southern California is there a certain time of the year that this is done? I have a plum tree i need to do this with but not sure if this is the wrong time to do it.
I'm not sure what you mean? Is the root ball strangling itself? If so, the root pruning process should help correct that. Since it is now winter, now is generally a good time to cut back the roots and trees.
Main crop figs grow on the new year's growth. Breba figs grow on the previous year's growth on some varieties, but many varieties will not hold their breba crops in some climates. I prune my fig varieties very aggressively in the dormant season, and I get about 6-8 feet of new wood every season and loads of figs. It sounds like your figs are being under-fertilized. I suggest you make sure your figs get at least 8 hours of direct, unfiltered sunshine a day and feed them per my tutorial here: ruclips.net/p/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j
I get cuttings from all over the place. I usually buy from Harvey at Figaholics and Bill at Off The Beaten Path Nursery, as well as source some from Figbid. Most of them are people I trade with and have become friendly with on forums, like Ourfigs. We do a lot of trading back and forth.
I'm in central Texas. Is there any reason not to plant in the ground? How many figs will that tree give this summer? Great video! You are the figxpert!
What zone are you? Figs do very well in Zones 8 and warmer, and still do well in many Zone 7’s but have a tendency to die back some in ground. With your drier climate, you’ll get better quality figs than I can with all my summer rain. I plant my favorite figs in ground. The ones I trial or the ones that aren’t good enough to go in ground but I still like go in pots. Yields vary. It’ll probably set 50-100 in a pot this size, but this variety has a tendency to drop when it is young.
That's up to you. Figs grow very quickly, so they can fill out both containers by the end of the season. They may fruit faster in the 5 gallon buckets since they'll become rootbound more quickly, but you'll have to eventually up-pot if you decide you want to keep them. My personal preference is to begin in 5 gallon buckets because I believe they fruit faster in smaller containers when young.
I think so, personally. I like the #15 containers, which I reviewed in this video: ruclips.net/video/LuBHbBmh3hU/видео.html While you can grow in a 5 gallon pot, you will have to root prune them almost every year. A #15 will last 2-3 seasons between pruning and support more fruiting branches.
Professor; another few questions and comments. In your video I think you are not only root pruning but Up Potting as well. I like your technique but when you are going from one container to another same size container I “think” you need to be more aggressive on trimming back the root ball??? In the video you discourage such aggressive techniques. Remember I have about 72 fig trees all in 18 gallon pots. I need to root prune about 30 of them. I’m 66 and getting older by the minute. I’m NOW living in Rochester, NY (don’t remind me) formally from NY/NJ. Our weather this year has been extremely wet and cool. I’m just getting some figs now. I’m thinking of starting the root pruning process the last week on September as it will take a long time to root prune so many trees. So here are my two questions, I normally do it when I bring them in towards the end of October and root prune then. Do you think starting a month earlier is too drastic? I have always pruned more aggressively cutting away a good deal of the roots. If you don’t like this technique, how else can I root prune from one container to the same size? As an FYI, I got to this stage because I haven’t root pruned as frequently as I should have and now have a major project on my hands and open to suggestions.
Have you tried any of the plastic ‘root pruning’ pots? If not, could you and let us know what you think? RediRoots has #7 and #15 pots. I would like to try several types of fruit trees in containers and the RediPots sound interesting. However , I’m in Dallas, which means summers are hot and humid and containers dry out quickly.
No, I have not tried those containers. They are not attractive to me. They evaporate too quickly. It is already hard enough to keep my plants watered enough in the summer, and those pots would make it impossible. I prefer a stronger, sturdier pot that will maintain moisture better like these that I use: ruclips.net/video/LuBHbBmh3hU/видео.html
Hi, I am living in the tropics. Is it possible to do root pruning here in my area? Also, I am growing olives and cherry trees. Can I apply this method to such trees? Thank you very much in advance.
Fig trees, regardless of where you grow them, will try and go through a period of dormancy. A fig tree must shed its leaves to "reset" itself for a new fruiting season. You'll want to root prune after the tree loses its leaves and is approximating dormancy. Since your trees will never go truly dormant like in a more temperate climate, you will want to be more conservative with your root pruning to avoid too much stress.
This tree you grew yourself and I won't interfere with your technique . For me I root prune store bought trees which in every case are so rootbound I want to faint thinking about it Case after case I run into rootball that will not accept water. The water can be flooded into the pot or ground and water only washes over to the outside of the rootball I mean the pot is filled with soil before the bareroot tree is put in the pot at the nursery then the vigorous root growth compresses the pine bark soil like gangbusters . No wonder water cant Penetrate the ball I know when I dismantal such a rootball I'm going to stunt the growth an entire season if I do the pruning after the tree has come out of dormancy
What if you're growing fruit trees in something like an old washing machine drum with all those holes to help on air root pruning I've cut off the bottoms so the container is open to the ground so the roots can extend down into the ground for added nutrients & anchorage, water etc. Would this planting method minimize root boundness & allow a undressed tree.
I have potted cherry, plum & pear trees that have grown roots through the bottom of the pots into the soil beneath. I will probably need to saw those roots off before potting them up into larger pots. Can I do it now without harming my chances of fruiting this summer?
Now is probably the best time. Depending on your latitude, they're probably still dormant, right? If they haven't budded out yet, you want to do this ASAP before they wake up. Waiting until they're blossoming or fruiting, then pruning, could cause blossom or fruit drop, so always prune during the dormancy period if you can.
Great video. Would you prune back the top of a mango tree in a container the same way you did your fig tree? I am guessing yes but just want to make sure.
I've never grown a mango tree, so I'm not familiar with their fruiting habit. However, it's common practice to treat almost all fruit trees grown commercially the same, where you "head them" at 12-24 inches or so when they're very young to encourage branching down low. How you maintain them after that is up to you. I prefer low branching. If I can't reach the fruit, it's no good to me 😂
Hi. I have a few citrus ( meyer lemons and Orange) trees that i'm growing in 15 gallon grow bags. I want to move them to the 15 gallon molded containers you recommended. Should i prune the roots ? is it too late in the season? Should i move them at all this season? i'm in zone 7b. Thanks for your help
When you try and remove the citrus trees from the grow bags, you will likely find the roots have woven themselves into the fabric, which will force you to cut the bags off, and also cut off a bunch of the roots in the process. I'm not sure how to advise you here. On one hand, waiting until winter to do this may benefit the tree because the metabolism of the tree may be slower. However, if you wait until winter, that means another 6 months of the roots growing into the bag, possibly leading to more extensive damage. The best advice I can give you is when you try and remove the fabric bags, do so very gently and take your time so as little damage as possible is done to the roots. You may want to make sure you remove the fruits beforehand so the tree can recover more quickly from the stress. Also, water them with fish emulsion after. I find that helps reduce shock.
I thought in grow bags, plants tend to not become root bound, but that may just be veggies. When a veggie root (tomatoes are the ones I know do this, now I can't remember if all) but when it senses cold, which a fabric bag usually does have a bit of air flow to it, it sends a signal to the plant that it is not good to grow in that direction anymore, killing the end of that root, or rather for that root to stop growing, and instead grow newer ones and sending out more. In Plastic containers, plants will find the water and moisture on the sides of the plastic and start to wrap itself around. Maybe trees are different? Maybe they don't tell the root to stop growing in that direction if it senses the cold/or air?
Great video as always. If I live in Connecticut (zone 6) and my figs are in my dark basement until around mid-May but they start to bud out a little now. When is the best time to prune the roots?
Thank you. The best time to prune the roots is when the tree is still dormant because it will suffer the least amount of stress. Pruning a tree while it's actively growing causes much more stress. Think of it like performing surgery on a patient that is asleep versus a patient that is awake. When you're pruning a tree that's actively growing, it's like a surgeon cutting you open while you're wide awake 😮
Hi Tony. I’m in CT also. I have pruned roots after figs came out from dormancy, they did good and fruited as much as year before. But i think best time to do it when the whole tree is dormant. What type of figs do you grow?
@@Maximka1100 hi I have 7 different varieties but only know the names of three as the others were passed down from generations to friends of mine. Corky Honey Delight, Little Miss Figgie and LSU
Accessing fertilisers with optimal NPK proportions for different situations is either difficult or expensive. Can individual chemicals potash, phosphates and nitrogen source be added to general compost to obtain desired proportions of NPK? If so, do you have advice/recipe on how to make them up?
It's pretty easy through the MiracleGro line. They have everything you need readily available on the shelf when you look at the All Purpose, Tomato and Bloom Booster varieties. I have used Sulfate of Potash as a quick source of potassium, blood meal as a quick source of nitrogen and bone meal as a slow release source of phosphorous and calcium and I do use them when appropriate and advocate for them. But you must be very careful not to overdo it since it's harder to mix those ratios. It's not really possible to measure them exactly because I don't know what it's "relative" to, hence I prefer to pre-made mixes for my container-grown plants. I have a detailed breakdown here: ruclips.net/p/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j
Hi, i grow a lemon tree from seed. Now its about 5 inches high. Please tell me if i have a chance to have lemons from this plante. If yes, haw long will it take. Thanks
It's hard to say. Growing citrus from seed is a mixed bag, because the seed was almost certainly cross-pollinated. It could have been cross-pollinated by anything: another lemon, a lime, some type of orange, a grapefruit, etc. So, there is no guarantee that what will grow will be lemon-like. If the lemon crossed with a grapefruit in whatever commercial orchard grew it, you could wind up with a very strange fruit. It could be a great new thing, or an inedible fruit full of seed. It's always a gamble to grow citrus from seed, unless you control the cross. Citrus often takes 7-10 years to fruit, so if it is about 5 inches tall, you may have to wait about a decade to see what it does. Grafted citrus usually fruits within 1 year, because the scion wood is off a mature tree, so it "thinks" it's a full-grown tree right away.
@@TheMillennialGardener hi, thanks for your elabored anwear. I realy appreciated it. Your knowlege and your videos are very good very infiomatif. I continue to watch your videos.
If you found this video helpful, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience:
0:00 3 Reasons Why You Must Root Prune Trees In Containers
2:09 Why You Must Prune The Tree After Root Pruning
2:53 How Often Should You Root Prune?
4:15 Required Tools For Root Pruning
6:20 How To Root Prune A Tree
10:31 How To Up Pot A Tree
12:17 How To Fertilize Fruit Trees After Potting
12:59 How To Prune A Fruit Tree
17:20 Adventures With Dale
Nice trees! Mine are already in 15 gal containers and I'm wondering how I root prune and get the sides of the root ball to fit back in the container. I certainly can't up-pot, as it's already quite heavy. Suggestions welcomed. Also, it's nice that you have manure you can trust. So much of it on the market has been poisoned by the feed given the animals. I just don't trust any brand anymore and don't know anyone who can actually verify their feed don't contain unwanted chemicals.
@@shashakeeleh5468 some ideas. The owner of figbid uses a sawzall to cut the root ball on all 4 sides making it into a square, than putting it back in the container with new soil and fertilizer. This video makes a good point of also cutting down the branches. Regarding manure, I buy organic 🐑 sheep manure hoping it has less chemicals.
@@Danielseven-ir2mq Thank you! That's what I was thinking about doing, but didn't want to harm the small roots. Don't see how I can help but take a few out sawing the sides down.
@@muneebiqbal5584 thank you. Oh I have videos on so many different trees. I have 45 varieties of figs, 8 varieties of citrus, 5 varieties of bananas, a persimmon, 2 varieties of pawpaw, a feijoa, an avocado, 7 different blueberries, 2 different blackberries, a raspberry, coffee, 2 types of strawberries...probably some other stuff I can’t think of. I have videos on all of them.
@@shashakeeleh5468 if you are able to get the root ball out, once you trim, it’ll obviously be smaller than when you started so it should fit back in easily, right? Wouldn’t it pop right back in? As for the manure, it is just bagged manure like from any store. I don’t believe there is any issue with “chemicals” or anything like that. I think the biggest garden myth on the internet is the myth of “leeching chemicals.” If the manure was toxic, it would harm the plant. If the plant is unharmed, the fruit will be fine. The way I look at it is anything that I grow is better than anything in the grocery store, so I don’t stress about it.
Hearing you talk about keeping the branches cut at the same height made me realise why my rose standards grow a little lopsided instead of nice round balls. Thanks
You're welcome! Symmetry is incredibly important. If your trees or bushes ever become lopsided, the larger side will become dominant, and if you let the tree grow out of balance for too long, the one side can become heavily favored and it'll be very difficult to correct the imbalance.
The Apex of Backyard Gardeners.
You are way more patient than me! I take a sawzall and remove 1/3 the bottom and 1/4 on each side.
It’s for demonstration purposes. I wouldn’t go this slowly off camera, but I still use utility knife. Less is more with this kind of stuff. Figs can take more damage thanks to their vigor and dormancy, but if you take a sawzall to citrus or an avocado tree, you could do some damage since it is much more stressful to a tree that’s evergreen.
I personally use a machete like I was cutting a slice of cheese when I does this.
Exactly the information I needed. All questions answered, no time wasted, clearly explained and shown. Thank you.
Brilliant video- you were born to teach- you could educate the masses on any subject. I have been so obsessed with my potted figs I had forgotten about a neglected potted quince, which I will attend to this week as we are moving into August ,our last month of winter in Australia. Your advice is just so much appreciated.
Only thing different I do is when you cut those bottom roots, I pull those roots out before I cut them off because most times they hit bottom or side of pot then grow back into the root ball and weave in and out all over the place, it takes some muscle but I keep pulling each root till I get it all the way out or it breaks,I usually end up with roots 4 ft long or even longer and I do this every year because my fig roots get root bound in 20 gal pots in one growing season. It's crazy how fast these trees and roots grow out in one season. I use promix hp, with coast of main products mixed in along with azos, bonemeal,lime, and garden tone every year for potting medium, then pretty much follow your soluble fertilizer regimen along w the fish fertilizer and the results can't be beat. Thanks for all your dedication and helpful videos, I have felt like a pro for the last few years now and my fig trees couldn't be happier
You really take your time... I use my reciprocating saw and just go to town on the root ball. Hasn't failed me yet. +1 on the fish fert. I use gallons each season.
I am very conservative with these trees. I’ve spent years on them, so I try and take my time. I go slower on these videos, though. Filming and demonstrating triples the time it takes to do these things.
Thank you for this video. I can no longer afford to upsize my fig trees with terra cotta pots. I knew root pruning was my next step but I was wary of the process. This removes all of the guess work. Thanks again...
You get to a point and the tree gets too large to manage, too. Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching.
Do an update on the fig tree in a couple of months to see the progress! Thanks
I’m sure I will. I suspect it’ll have fruit forming in...60 days?
Thanks I have a root bound fig tree. This is going to really help.
I SO appreciate the date and location information you start your vids with!! Truly. Thank you SO much as it is important information for viewing videos from other zones!!
I'm curious how many figs you get from your up-potted trees. Seems like you'd need a few of them to get much of a crop? (We are in the Pacific Northwest so are trying to get a Desert King in a too-large ceramic pot to produce.) I've spent a few hours tonight watching your videos and must say they are the best available. So clear and linear with great explanations but not too long and the production values are perfect. Wishing you much success!
This will be my First year to plant fruit trees in a container, long term, Great Information that I needed to know and knew you could tell me!💞💞💞
THANK YOU!!!
I'm also adding Fruit Tree feed sticks to my containers.
Thank you for putting inch to cm conversions.
You're welcome!
Ah I need to get this done before spring. Thank you for the video.
Damn that was brilliant!! Thank you so much. I now have more confidence to do this. Will do fig tree tomorrow. I will now subscribe
Thank you young sir for a well thought out and educational video. It is winter here in Sydney. I shall prune my fig tree tomorrow. I really does need it.
I think I will use a large pot instead of the growbag this time. 👍👍
Yes! Just the guy I wanted to see today! No less a pertinent video! Thanks man!
Thanks! I try to upload every Thursday and Saturday, "life-permitting." Hopefully it was good timing. Thanks for watching!
@@TheMillennialGardener You know it man! I'm transplanting an additional 6 Bush variety blueberries that I overwintered to add to my small orchard. About time now to prune them back to get them in their final homes. Perfect timing indeed!
@@shpuply very nice. I have 7 blueberry plants that are blooming that need to go into the ground at the end of month. I'm just waiting for the soil to acidify!
@@TheMillennialGardener I already had 4,but why stop there?? lol
@@shpuply the only dangerous amount is none!
Thank you a lot for this informative video. Learned a lot
Thank you for watching!
Perfect timing on your last few videos as I just ordered new containers to up-pot my figs and am getting ready to do that and root prune this weekend. As always, very helpful and great video! thanks!
Thanks. My winters are milder than most, so usually I’m “early” on the spring videos and “late” on the fall videos 😂 Glad it was helpful.
@@TheMillennialGardener I had a credit with Home Depot so I ordered containers which cost me next to nothing , after the arrived yesterday I realized they weren’t going to work and ordered yours from the your Amazon page - can’t wait for them to get here
@@ZosoJJ you'll love them. They're worth the extra cost.
I have limited space in my backyard so I'm still growing in pots until I find a few varieties that I like enough to put into the ground. I have about (15) varieties in various stages of growth. My (2) White Marseilles (4th year) had their first crop last summer. I have learned a lot by following your channel. If I root prune my (2) Marseilles currently in 5 gallon pots and up pot will I sacrifice fruit production for this year?
I thought i was watching Hans and Franz getting ready to PUMP YOU UP about figs.
Can you take a plant that is struggling in the ground and move it into a pot? For example, I have a tangelo tree that has struggled over the last 5 years. The soil is bad, grubs are ravaging the root, and it has a lot of dead small branches. I want to move it into a pot to see if it'll recover. If it does not, I'll just get another one.
I'm about to do this to one of my figs this weekend. Getting warmer here in Australia. Thanks for the quality information ✋🏽🌿
I’m jealous you guys are heading into spring. My favorite time of the year!
@@TheMillennialGardener lol we get about 6 weeks of Winter which I've been told is a Summer in England 😆 So yes we don't get a true Winter here. I'll be dying in my sweat in less than 3 weeks 😩 The plants will love it though.
I need to root prune my pink guava. It's been in the same pot and mix for years. Been thinking about it for the last two weeks and luckily your video came out :) I also used your potting mix formula to up pot my strawberry guava and lemon guava. Once I uppot my figs I will use your potting mix formula also :)
Excellent! I'm glad the video was helpful to you. Since you're dealing with a tropical plant that doesn't have a dormancy period, remember that "less is more." You can be more aggressive with trees that have a dormancy period (figs, persimmons, apples, pears, peaches, etc.), but you must be more gentle with the evergreens since they'll suffer some shock. I find fish emulsion helps tremendously with shock.
Guava remove the topsoil n dig on the side of the pot keep for a couple of days in the sun in spring add composted chicken or cow manure with the soil n back fill water n add seaweed after every month top dress with fertiliser
@@desmondou do you also prune back your tree every year
Great video. When is a good time to root prune? Is it best done during fall season?
I like the way you explained on how to do,it gives me the courage to root prune my fig when the right time comes.I have an 8 month old fig that is in its fruiting stage but dont know what variety it is.And a 3 month old BlackJack ,thank you so much again for the new learning,Godbless you and your family.
I’m glad it was helpful! Figs are forgiving because they grow so quickly, so they’re the perfect tree to learn on. Root pruning during dormancy is safest. Thanks for watching!
Very effective video, verbally and visually.
Thanks for watching!
Good info. I'm a novice growing fig trees in the north 6A.
I have a ton of videos on figs if you search through my library with the keyword "figs." ruclips.net/user/TheMillennialGardenersearch?query=figs
Hopefully that helps! Figs are so much fun to grow.
Thank you for sharing. ☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️
You're welcome!
This was my year for root pruning, Some up potted, some not. Good video as usual. I do have some of those new pots you have coming....though I will not use them until next year.....gotta get while the gettins good. lol
With the way prices on everything have been climbing, it pays to be early. You’ll love them when you eventually use them. They’re the Cadillac of nursery pots 😂
I laughed when you lifted your arms at the end pointing to you "products" in the background. Thought you were advertising your strong set of arms.
It's from moving all of these heavy containers, I think 😎
Very educational videos as always! What's the black liner that you're standing on? What's it for?
Thanks,
Thanks. It is weed barrier. It is for permanent weed suppression and developing a hotter microclimate. I have a tutorial on it here: ruclips.net/video/XT1reOI1-5E/видео.html
You have the best looking potted figs I have seen. In regards to your potting mix, are the proportions .5 parts peat/coco coir; .25 parts Walmart Expert Gardener Potting Mix; and .25 parts compost?
That is what I potted all my previous plants in, yes. However, this year, Walmart did not get any Coco Coir bricks, at least in my location. Therefore, I had to switch to 3/4 Expert Gardener Potting Mix and 1/4 cow manure compost. So far, they are flourishing in my new black nursery containers, so this appears to be just as successful. I am very impressed with Walmart's Expert Gardener mix. It's the best quality I've found. I like it better than the compressed Promix cubes that everyone raves about and it's much easier to hydrate.
@@TheMillennialGardener my location as well . Didnt have coco coir blocks in 2020 and this season 2021. They did have their own brand in 2019 Gainesville Va. 50 miles outside of Wash DC
Keep up the great work. Best video on RUclips. !
Thank you! I really appreciate it.
Have you ever tried a fabric air pruning grow bag? Seems to me you could drop the tree in the bag, then plant the bag into the container. Every so often remove the tree and cut back any roots growing outside the bag. Probably unnecessary but could serve as a guide. For my tomatoes at least the bags keep the plant from becoming root bound
The air pruning bags I've seen are made of a hard material. I've never seen them made of fabric. I would recommend avoiding fabric at all costs for perennials and trees due to the root weaving issue. The reason why I don't like the air pruning pots is because they will dry out rapidly. If you live in a climate with hot summers, you'll be watering like crazy. I recommend the hard nursery containers for this reason.
very nice explanation. I'm having root bound problem with my rose bush. i'll have to root prune my rose
You'll want to do this while it's dormant. Best of luck!
When the tree is finally in the container that you are able to lift the tree out . Do you still trim the roots back every couple years? Or at this point you should leave it alone?
Very informative. Thank you for this video 🙏🙏🙏
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
My fig is ill and I’ve been told it is most likely root bound. There has been no growth and leaves are curling and falling off.
. I’m in zone 9 so this is the worst possible time to root prune for several reasons. If I go through the work of root pruning now, how likely would it be that the tree would survive? Thank you😎🌵
Great info! I learned alot here. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Haha haha. I just did this for my meyer lemons, figs, sweet bay, and lime trees this weekend as well... I transplanted all my peppers, tomatoes, and herbs this weekend into my beds as well. Hope this 38° Friday night doesn't hurt them too bad!
If it is a clear night, subtract ten degrees (due to radiant heat loss). I'd cover those plants.
@@TheRainHarvester on the coast and only 1 mile from the ocean I'm banking that temps will only hit that low (if they really do) for 30 min tops then shoot back up. I've seen forecasts for my area drastically off from what I really experience. Most likely will get into the low 40s.
Same thing here. It was 80 today and a low of 37 tomorrow night. I only planted 3 tomatoes so far, so we’ll see how it goes! It is supposed to be cloudy, so it likely won’t frost unless the forecast changes.
@@TheMillennialGardener I live in ILM as well. Never know when to plant. Its always a gamble, but to beat the blight and heat have to plant as early as possible to get a reasonable harvest on my heirloom tomatoes.
Great video. I need to up-pot 2 of my figs (I won't mess with the roots) and I have another that is being downsized from a 1/2 barrel to a 15 gallon pot. The one I'm downsizing will be root pruned to fit into the smaller container. It's not a great variety so if it gets shocked I'll be ok. It's a Kadota that already has a bunch of breba figs on it.
I recommend using fish emulsion after the heavy pruning. I find fish emulsion does miracles for transplanting and pruning shock. It's like magic. You can get it at Walmart, Home Depot and Lowes for $20 a gallon or $9 a quart.
Thanks for the video. I’m always learning from you. QUESTION: I noticed in the comments that you mentioned having videos on blueberries. I’m just getting into growing fruit trees and starting with blueberries.
1). Where are your videos for these? I went into your playlist and didn’t see any.
2). How long can fruit trees grow in pots? I live in zone 5 and can’t plant into the ground for several reasons.
3). You mentioned pruning your fig trees branches to the same height because of a growth hormone. Does this apply to all fruits? Blueberries are a bush.
I ask because last year I planted two small plants and one grew really well and I am curious if I should prune it now before it wakes up or if the pruning you did was only because of up potting the tree?
1. I have blueberries. I bought them bare-root over the winter. They are in containers right now, they're flowering and leafing out. I haven't planted them yet because I'm waiting for my soil to acidify, so I do not have videos on blueberries, yet.
2. Depends on the tree. A fig tree can outgrow a smaller container in a matter of a summer. Dwarf citrus, lemons and limes can last in a container for years and be happy. Rootstock also makes a ton of difference. So does the amount of heat in your climate. Hotter climates = more growth per year = faster outgrowth of containers.
3. Yes, it applies to blueberries. They're trees just the same, meaning they're made of wood. The growth hormone concentrates in the apical buds, which are the "highest" buds on the trees. Lower buds generate less hormones so they grow slower or not at all.
@@TheMillennialGardener I read last week where you said you had 7 blueberries as well as a lot of other fruiting trees and that you had videos on all of them. That’s why I went looking. That’s ok because it would be great to have a video made on how to plant a blueberry in a pot and watch you care for it during the seasons. I’m only a year ahead of you so your videos on blueberry growing in pots would be EXTREMELY helpful!!!! Please make one. I look forward to reading your reply to this request. Thanks
Hey Dale!!!!
Dale sends his warmest regards 😊
This is great
I'm glad to hear you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Great information really concise and well communicated. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Just root pruned a potted crabapple tree before we put it in the ground. It really needed it, especially near the bottom and lower parts of the sides. I used a serrated soil knife to cut all the edges vertically, then shaved all the edges to catch the noticeable encircling roots that were exposed (you can find more just running your fingers down the edges). TBH I think I prefer starting with bare root trees... Some issues with crossing roots are right next to the trunk.
What do you grow the crab apple for? Is it for feed or pollination reasons?
@@TheMillennialGardener It's mostly decorative (royal raindrops is the variety, very cool leaf color and shape). Having better pollination of the other apples nearby is a bonus. I don't think I'd use the fruit for anything, but it might distract the wildlife from our other plants :)
@@nmnate that's interesting. I figured there was a good reason!
@@TheMillennialGardener Hah! I try to be thorough when planning. Most of the plants in the yard are a mix of native plants, decorative plants (like flowering xeric plants for our arid region) and stuff that fruits. The mix of stuff with broad bloom times seems to really help the pollinators and other beneficials (predators). Hoping to eventually have less and less pest issues if I think of my yard as a system and not just a bunch of plants. :)
@@nmnate I’m always impressed by what you’re growing, especially in such an arid climate. I imagine your yard is like a desert oasis.
Nice to learn.Thanks a lot.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching.
I just realized you lived in Wilmington! My sister lives there too! Good video on uppotting and root pruning!
Lol.
It’s a small world and it has become quite the popular destination! Thanks for watching!
I live in the tropics so i have no winter dormant period. Should i choose rainy season instead to root prune? Draught season is so extreme nowadays, so hot and pots dried out so quick.
Bro it's amazing and thank you so so much for the information.
Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching!
Hey brother, wondering if you heard of or seen self wicking tubs? Especially from this gentleman named Leon, gardening with Leon. Would love for you to let us know your thoughts on that! Thank you.
I have seen people make homemade tubs. I haven’t bothered, as it would be expensive to set up. I am hoping to set up drip irrigation this spring and automate the whole process for my containers.
Thanks for this information
Thanks for watching!
Hello newbie here. Today I planted a fairly large Acacia tree (that was in a 15 gallon pot). I had a feeling the roots looked weird, but planted it anyway. I went on RUclips and sure enough it appears my tree is root bound. Ugh. Should I dig up my tree and unbound the roots asap? Or wait?
what is the variety of the fig tree that becomes early, Thank you.
Very nice video, I would love to have a couple cuttings of that Pastiliere fig tree.
Thanks for watching. I haven’t been able to verify the variety yet due to fruit drop, so I won’t be offering it until I can be sure it is labeled properly.
Very helpful thanks
Thanks for watching!
Very informative video. I liked it alot
Thanks for watching!
If you don’t plant it in the ground, how long will a tree in a large container live?
Should you prune a shrubs roots before planting into the ground?
How many times to up-pot per season? Should you ever up-pot during the middle of the growing season? Awesome video btw.
Up-potting should be done before the growing season starts. You should be up-potting now or earlier to prepare for the warm season. After that, you shouldn't be up-potting until at least the following season. These trees won't be up-potted beyond the #15 container shown in this video. I will never go larger than this. Thanks for watching!
This is a great informative video! Thank you for taking the time. Would adding fertilizers to the new soil mix burn the roots for fig trees? For example, something like Plant-Tone?
If you're speaking of granulated organic fertilizers, no, because they are not immediately usable by plants. They have to be eaten by the microbes and fungi in the soil, then excreted back out. The plants can then use it after it has been digested by soil life. But, this is also why only using granulated organic fertilizers in containers doesn't work very well. There is very limited soil microbiology in a small container, so you need to supplement with soluble fertilizers like MiracleGro crystals, which doesn't need to be digested by soil life. As long as you use the water soluble fertilizers in the dosages recommended by the manufacturer, they will not burn anything.
I have my trees in hugh pots with the bottoms cut out so nutrients wont scatter and the roots can still go into the ground...do i still need special pruning technique or is tipical pruning and care. O. K.
I would like to purchase those container. I did not see the link on your Amazon store front! Help!
Where can I get the saw that you were using
Great video. In a zone 6, can I root prune in early winter instead of late winter? I want to reduce the space needed for storage, then come spring replant it in the same 15 gallon pot
As long as they are dormant, you can prune. If they’re dormant now, you could prune if you want. I like waiting until late winter, because I like to add fertilizer to the fresh mix. If you prune now, you won’t want to fortify your mix with heavy fertilizer, because you don’t want to trigger growth. This is why I think it is ideal to wait, but if you can’t, you can do it early and use much less fertilizer.
That's why I got away from plastic pots And I've been using fabric pots for the past few years.
Fabric grow bags are fine for annual vegetables, but I'd actually really discourage them for growing trees. They can really be harmful in the long run, because the trees will eventually destroy the bags, and the bags can destroy the trees in the process. I made a video describing how they killed some of my trees here: ruclips.net/video/0Yhcu0gZvHo/видео.html
will this also work with a elberta peach tree
I have always heard to never fertilize a plant that you have transplanted! I watch many videos and they all say to wait until it has gone through transplant shock! Now I am really confused! Everybody seems to do things differently!
Can you do this with an apple tree and does it keep the tree short? It’s my first year trying an apple tree in a grow bag! Also will a grow bag substitute for root pruning? Thank you!
Great vid G! I don't have container figs but I'm working on it and have a couple questions.
Did you notice there were no old brown roots on a side of the root ball and do you know if that side was pointed north? Also, the bonsai people trim off the fat roots and leave the fine roots because they are "much more efficient". It seems like bigger roots would be better because they have more surface area but I don't know. Maybe you could try both ways and make a video about it?
The fat roots are for water storage- they can’t directly absorb water and have to grow skinny roots to drink!
@@elisebarrett357 How fat? At what point do they lose the ability?
@@BlackJesus8463 there are three main types of roots- the fat orange ones, which are moderately lignified and only store water; the smooth white ones, which store water and can grow tertiary hair roots; and tertiary hair roots, which are nearly naked to the invisible eye (except when the plant is really thirsty and growing tons of fluffy white root hairs in desperation). The fatter the white roots get, the fewer root hairs they put out, and the more they become primary roots… and eventually, a successful tertiary hair will mature into a secondary white root, and grow hairs of its own.
What you don’t want is a whole bunch of orangey, barkey, or heavily lignified primary roots displacing all the dirt and leaving no space for the secondary roots to proliferate and produce tertiary roots, or for tertiary roots to mature. In the ground, massive primary roots are water tanks that help the plant survive droughts; in containers, massive primary (and very mature, nearly-primary secondary) roots are just turning dirt space into water storage, not knowing or caring that you’re standing by with a water hose during a drought!
So if your root ball is mostly orange and woody, it’s time to chop off some of it and replace that useless water storage with dirt where young secondary roots can explore and grow their tertiaries. I have a fig in a big container (like the one he’s up-potting to in this video) and I root prune about every other year, taking about a third of the root ball- it bears super heavily by the end of summer every time!
@@BlackJesus8463 apologies if I come across weirdly, I’m just a mega nerd and I LOVE container figs!!
@@elisebarrett357 Yeah figs are cool! 👍
I have a dwarf lemon tree in a whiskey barrel and just found some roots about 6 feet outside of the barrel. I've had it for 4 years and it has never beard fruit. I fertilize it every year and it does flower alot. Should I prune the roots all the way to the bottom of the barrel?
That's odd. Meyer lemons fruit very early and profusely. Mine fruited after about 15 months, and at 18 months, it's flowering so heavily it's crazy. I would say you need to do a few things:
1. Root prune.
2. Prune the actual tree itself. Remove about 25% of the volume of the branches and cut them all to equal lengths.
3. Make sure you fertilize it. They are heavy feeders. Give it soluble fertilizer, like MiracleGro 24-8-16. Container trees don't respond well to only organic granulated fertilizers, because they lack the soil microbiology to process the organic fertilizers well.
I'm interested what your climate is. If it is flowering but is dropping all its fruit, it's either an issue with inconsistent fertilizing, inconsistent watering, not enough sun, or too much sun. Too much sun is unlikely, because these trees usually flower in early spring before the sun is too intense. However, if that is the case and you live in a brutally sunny climate, it may benefit from some 30% shade cloth. If that isn't the case, you may need to give it more sun, more food and more even watering. Citrus also enjoy being periodically dried out. Underwatering a bit is surprisingly better than too much water with container grown citrus.
Thanks for the info! I have most of my fruit trees in large grow bags. Does the same method apply?
Yes. However, I would discourage against growing fruit trees in grow bags. I did this and both trees grew through the bag, and when I tried to remove them, the feeder roots sewed themselves into the fabric. I had to cut the bags off and the trees wound up dying from the extensive damage. I would urge using a hard container for trees because they can be removed more easily.
Do you do this in the spring? I have a container with multiple plants I need to divide can I do it in the fall or should I wait until next Spring?
Great pruning and root bound tip. Do you sell cuttings of figs
I do make cuttings available in the winter, but the season has passed. I have info here and only a couple left: ruclips.net/video/rA5V2QPcpzw/видео.html
I will have more in January.
When is the best time to do this? I’m in Northern California and have a couple of struggling kumquats with overgrown roots.
Typically in winter when the plants are growing as slowly as possible. For citrus, make sure you harvest them completely before you root prune. Don't root prune a plant with fruit on it. It will be too stressful.
Thank you!
I'm in southern California is there a certain time of the year that this is done? I have a plum tree i need to do this with but not sure if this is the wrong time to do it.
Do it in February for CA.
What can be done when there's visible root strangulation? Can the healthy branches be grafted?
I'm not sure what you mean? Is the root ball strangling itself? If so, the root pruning process should help correct that. Since it is now winter, now is generally a good time to cut back the roots and trees.
Do figs grown on last years growth or the new growth. I cut my fig tree during dormancy and didn’t get any figs this year
Main crop figs grow on the new year's growth. Breba figs grow on the previous year's growth on some varieties, but many varieties will not hold their breba crops in some climates. I prune my fig varieties very aggressively in the dormant season, and I get about 6-8 feet of new wood every season and loads of figs. It sounds like your figs are being under-fertilized. I suggest you make sure your figs get at least 8 hours of direct, unfiltered sunshine a day and feed them per my tutorial here: ruclips.net/p/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j
I have watched your videos on fig propagation. Where do you get your fig starts?
I get cuttings from all over the place. I usually buy from Harvey at Figaholics and Bill at Off The Beaten Path Nursery, as well as source some from Figbid. Most of them are people I trade with and have become friendly with on forums, like Ourfigs. We do a lot of trading back and forth.
Any hint on those metal name tags? How do you make those?
I have them linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description under Garden Accessories.
I'm in central Texas. Is there any reason not to plant in the ground?
How many figs will that tree give this summer?
Great video! You are the figxpert!
What zone are you? Figs do very well in Zones 8 and warmer, and still do well in many Zone 7’s but have a tendency to die back some in ground. With your drier climate, you’ll get better quality figs than I can with all my summer rain. I plant my favorite figs in ground. The ones I trial or the ones that aren’t good enough to go in ground but I still like go in pots. Yields vary. It’ll probably set 50-100 in a pot this size, but this variety has a tendency to drop when it is young.
@@TheMillennialGardener I'm in 9b.
Figs will flourish in your climate. If I can do it here in 8a with my soaking wet summers, you’ll do great with your warmer winters and drier summers.
I have a few small rooted fig cuttings to put in containers. Should I start with a 5 gallon bucket & pot up, or start off with a 15 gallon container?
That's up to you. Figs grow very quickly, so they can fill out both containers by the end of the season. They may fruit faster in the 5 gallon buckets since they'll become rootbound more quickly, but you'll have to eventually up-pot if you decide you want to keep them. My personal preference is to begin in 5 gallon buckets because I believe they fruit faster in smaller containers when young.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for the quick response.
Is it too late to do this to my figs in 5 gallon buckets?
It is so weird seeing you with so much hair!! I wish I’d have found your channel sooner. How did you become so knowledgeable???
Great.
I haven't decided should I pick the 12 or 20 gal.
Right now my lsu tiger in a 5 gal container. Is bigger pot better?
I think so, personally. I like the #15 containers, which I reviewed in this video: ruclips.net/video/LuBHbBmh3hU/видео.html
While you can grow in a 5 gallon pot, you will have to root prune them almost every year. A #15 will last 2-3 seasons between pruning and support more fruiting branches.
Professor; another few questions and comments. In your video I think you are not only root pruning but Up Potting as well. I like your technique but when you are going from one container to another same size container I “think” you need to be more aggressive on trimming back the root ball??? In the video you discourage such aggressive techniques. Remember I have about 72 fig trees all in 18 gallon pots. I need to root prune about 30 of them. I’m 66 and getting older by the minute. I’m NOW living in Rochester, NY (don’t remind me) formally from NY/NJ. Our weather this year has been extremely wet and cool. I’m just getting some figs now. I’m thinking of starting the root pruning process the last week on September as it will take a long time to root prune so many trees. So here are my two questions, I normally do it when I bring them in towards the end of October and root prune then. Do you think starting a month earlier is too drastic? I have always pruned more aggressively cutting away a good deal of the roots. If you don’t like this technique, how else can I root prune from one container to the same size? As an FYI, I got to this stage because I haven’t root pruned as frequently as I should have and now have a major project on my hands and open to suggestions.
Have you tried any of the plastic ‘root pruning’ pots? If not, could you and let us know what you think? RediRoots has #7 and #15 pots. I would like to try several types of fruit trees in containers and the RediPots sound interesting. However , I’m in Dallas, which means summers are hot and humid and containers dry out quickly.
No, I have not tried those containers. They are not attractive to me. They evaporate too quickly. It is already hard enough to keep my plants watered enough in the summer, and those pots would make it impossible. I prefer a stronger, sturdier pot that will maintain moisture better like these that I use: ruclips.net/video/LuBHbBmh3hU/видео.html
Hi, I am living in the tropics. Is it possible to do root pruning here in my area? Also, I am growing olives and cherry trees. Can I apply this method to such trees? Thank you very much in advance.
Fig trees, regardless of where you grow them, will try and go through a period of dormancy. A fig tree must shed its leaves to "reset" itself for a new fruiting season. You'll want to root prune after the tree loses its leaves and is approximating dormancy. Since your trees will never go truly dormant like in a more temperate climate, you will want to be more conservative with your root pruning to avoid too much stress.
This tree you grew yourself and I won't interfere with your technique . For me I root prune store bought trees which in every case are so rootbound I want to faint thinking about it
Case after case I run into rootball that will not accept water. The water can be flooded into the pot or ground and water only washes over to the outside of the rootball I mean the pot is filled with soil before the bareroot tree is put in the pot at the nursery then the vigorous root growth compresses the pine bark soil like gangbusters . No wonder water cant Penetrate the ball
I know when I dismantal such a rootball I'm going to stunt the growth an entire season if I do the pruning after the tree has come out of dormancy
What if you're growing fruit trees in something like an old washing machine drum with all those holes to help on air root pruning I've cut off the bottoms so the container is open to the ground so the roots can extend down into the ground for added nutrients & anchorage, water etc. Would this planting method minimize root boundness & allow a undressed tree.
Bunny Guinness YT , a garden designer does this
I have potted cherry, plum & pear trees that have grown roots through the bottom of the pots into the soil beneath. I will probably need to saw those roots off before potting them up into larger pots. Can I do it now without harming my chances of fruiting this summer?
Now is probably the best time. Depending on your latitude, they're probably still dormant, right? If they haven't budded out yet, you want to do this ASAP before they wake up. Waiting until they're blossoming or fruiting, then pruning, could cause blossom or fruit drop, so always prune during the dormancy period if you can.
Put a cement paver under the pot next time. It will help you also to see if it is draining well.
Sometimes I think I need to root prune myself 😀
I keep waiting to get tall enough to need a pruning. I've been waiting for 20 years since my last spurt 🤔
Great video. Would you prune back the top of a mango tree in a container the same way you did your fig tree? I am guessing yes but just want to make sure.
I've never grown a mango tree, so I'm not familiar with their fruiting habit. However, it's common practice to treat almost all fruit trees grown commercially the same, where you "head them" at 12-24 inches or so when they're very young to encourage branching down low. How you maintain them after that is up to you. I prefer low branching. If I can't reach the fruit, it's no good to me 😂
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately my neighbor has an English bulldog and thought my new mango tree was a chew toy.
I taped the tree back together but I’m not sure if it will survive.
Hi. I have a few citrus ( meyer lemons and Orange) trees that i'm growing in 15 gallon grow bags. I want to move them to the 15 gallon molded containers you recommended. Should i prune the roots ? is it too late in the season? Should i move them at all this season? i'm in zone 7b. Thanks for your help
When you try and remove the citrus trees from the grow bags, you will likely find the roots have woven themselves into the fabric, which will force you to cut the bags off, and also cut off a bunch of the roots in the process. I'm not sure how to advise you here. On one hand, waiting until winter to do this may benefit the tree because the metabolism of the tree may be slower. However, if you wait until winter, that means another 6 months of the roots growing into the bag, possibly leading to more extensive damage. The best advice I can give you is when you try and remove the fabric bags, do so very gently and take your time so as little damage as possible is done to the roots. You may want to make sure you remove the fruits beforehand so the tree can recover more quickly from the stress. Also, water them with fish emulsion after. I find that helps reduce shock.
I thought in grow bags, plants tend to not become root bound, but that may just be veggies. When a veggie root (tomatoes are the ones I know do this, now I can't remember if all) but when it senses cold, which a fabric bag usually does have a bit of air flow to it, it sends a signal to the plant that it is not good to grow in that direction anymore, killing the end of that root, or rather for that root to stop growing, and instead grow newer ones and sending out more.
In Plastic containers, plants will find the water and moisture on the sides of the plastic and start to wrap itself around.
Maybe trees are different? Maybe they don't tell the root to stop growing in that direction if it senses the cold/or air?
Great video as always. If I live in Connecticut (zone 6) and my figs are in my dark basement until around mid-May but they start to bud out a little now. When is the best time to prune the roots?
Thank you. The best time to prune the roots is when the tree is still dormant because it will suffer the least amount of stress. Pruning a tree while it's actively growing causes much more stress. Think of it like performing surgery on a patient that is asleep versus a patient that is awake. When you're pruning a tree that's actively growing, it's like a surgeon cutting you open while you're wide awake 😮
@@TheMillennialGardener ok so I could prune the roots now since they are only showing very little bud swelling?
@@winrockywin331 yes, the sooner the better. Remember when root pruning, less is sometimes more. Don’t go crazy. Just trim 10-15% or so.
Hi Tony. I’m in CT also. I have pruned roots after figs came out from dormancy, they did good and fruited as much as year before. But i think best time to do it when the whole tree is dormant. What type of figs do you grow?
@@Maximka1100 hi I have 7 different varieties but only know the names of three as the others were passed down from generations to friends of mine. Corky Honey Delight, Little Miss Figgie and LSU
Accessing fertilisers with optimal NPK proportions for different situations is either difficult or expensive. Can individual chemicals potash, phosphates and nitrogen source be added to general compost to obtain desired proportions of NPK? If so, do you have advice/recipe on how to make them up?
It's pretty easy through the MiracleGro line. They have everything you need readily available on the shelf when you look at the All Purpose, Tomato and Bloom Booster varieties. I have used Sulfate of Potash as a quick source of potassium, blood meal as a quick source of nitrogen and bone meal as a slow release source of phosphorous and calcium and I do use them when appropriate and advocate for them. But you must be very careful not to overdo it since it's harder to mix those ratios. It's not really possible to measure them exactly because I don't know what it's "relative" to, hence I prefer to pre-made mixes for my container-grown plants. I have a detailed breakdown here: ruclips.net/p/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j
@@TheMillennialGardener This is very helpful. Many thanks. Your videos are very clear, easy to follow timely and addictive!
Thank you for watching them! I really appreciate it.
Hi, i grow a lemon tree from seed. Now its about 5 inches high. Please tell me if i have a chance to have lemons from this plante. If yes, haw long will it take. Thanks
It's hard to say. Growing citrus from seed is a mixed bag, because the seed was almost certainly cross-pollinated. It could have been cross-pollinated by anything: another lemon, a lime, some type of orange, a grapefruit, etc. So, there is no guarantee that what will grow will be lemon-like. If the lemon crossed with a grapefruit in whatever commercial orchard grew it, you could wind up with a very strange fruit. It could be a great new thing, or an inedible fruit full of seed. It's always a gamble to grow citrus from seed, unless you control the cross. Citrus often takes 7-10 years to fruit, so if it is about 5 inches tall, you may have to wait about a decade to see what it does.
Grafted citrus usually fruits within 1 year, because the scion wood is off a mature tree, so it "thinks" it's a full-grown tree right away.
@@TheMillennialGardener hi, thanks for your elabored anwear. I realy appreciated it. Your knowlege and your videos are very good very infiomatif. I continue to watch your videos.