A note about keeping bare-root trees in good condition until you're ready to plant them properly - I've seen a few videos from nurseries where instead of keeping them in water, they place them nearly horizontal on a pile of good soil or compost, then cover the roots with a couple inches the same soil or compost, and mulch very well to prevent them from drying out. This has worked nicely for us this year, because we bought perhaps a few too many bare-root trees (it happens lol) and due to work and other hassles we haven't gotten them all planted as soon as we'd like. If we had left them just in water they might have simply rotted by now.
Great video! I’ve done both exactly what you demonstrated (in ground and potted) and have had 100% success. I’ve learned to water halfway through the process as well to ensure no air pockets. Then continue with topsoil and then compost. Great video!
I feel like your videos always come out with perfect timing. Haha. We’ve been doing a massive amount of planting lately, and this had some great information. I also never really thought about ordering stuff from further away. Which is good that it may be an option, because so many places are sold out of so many things. Happily, it’s because of a huge boost in gardening because folks are interested in food security. Another great video.
Not exactly related to bareroot trees but I was just watching your most recent video on your owari satsuma tree. Im going to email McKenzie farms about ordering an owari and brown select, I was wondering if you had to specifically request a triploid root stock or do they graph all their citrus trees onto triploid root stock? Love your videos thanks for all the great info youre always sharing!
Thank you! 👍This is another timely tutorial for me. This evening I plan to plant my bare root pomegranate bush and now I better know how!🙂 Awwwww! Sweet Dale. I'm sure he got lots of cuddling and maybe a treat after his bath. I love how your food forest is growing!👍
Now is generally the ideal time to plant bare root trees, unless you live very far north. Dale hates getting a bath, but he loves how he feels after. He does so many air-dry zoomies after his baths!
thank you so much for sharing your knowledge , extremely useful, helpful and detailed information, planning to buy a bare root trees in the future 🙏🌿🍃🌱 (sorry for my English!)
I've heard (but don't know for sure) that it also helps to dig square holes instead of circular holes. The reasoning is that even when you backfill with native soil, the soil in the hole will be looser than the compacted soil around the hole, and in a circular hole, the roots will become bound around the inside of the hole. Naturally, a square hole will encourage the roots to dig into the compacted soil once they hit the sharp corners.
I have also heard, though I don't think there is any peer-reviewed studies on it. If the plant is coming from a container, no hole shape is going to change the fact that the roots are already imprinted from that container if they aren't properly teased - more than anything, I think that is where trees fail long-term.
I've read it too but if corners are helpful, why not like a 6 or 8 pointed star for double the corners? Unless the ground is super compacted, like to the point you need a mattock to dig thru it, i don't think the hole will make much difference, after a few weeks and some rain the ground will be about the same compaction as the surrounding ground again. I think the more common issue is spade shovels are angled, if you look at tree planting shovels, the blade is straight. The spade will promote more of a bowl shape, i would just try to make sure the hole walls are more vertical. I would try to dig further down near the walls of cylinder so the plant is sorta on the top of a volcano, this is to promote deeper anchor roots. Heavy rains can loosen the surface roots by making the ground too soft allowing the tree to tip over
Really informative video as usual. I’ve been trying rooting 4 apple trees from the cutting. It’s been 4 months since the cuttings are put into small individual pots. They all have little buds and look alive but no growth spotted. Is it normal? Thanks.
Thanks! I don't have much experience rooting apple trees - well, none, really, so I cannot tell you how easily they will root. Did you score them and add rooting hormone? I don't know how well they'll root without it. What may be happening is the cuttings just have enough stored nutrition within them to begin budding on schedule, or they could have rooted. The thing is, do you want an apple tree growing on its own roots, though? They're quite susceptible to a lot of problems, so they're typically grafted onto disease resistant rootstock for this reason (and dwarfing rootstock, because full-size apple trees grow 30+ feet).
Thank you for your video! I'm about to receive an order of bare root trees from the Arbor Day Foundation just for joining, so I am scrambling to make sure that I can pot them properly!
Awesome! Fall is a very good time to plant bare root trees directly in ground as long as they're hardy to your zone. For example, apples, peaches and pears tend to be really cold hardy, so as long as your zone can accommodate them, you can plant them now and they'll slowly establish over the winter for the spring.
@TheMillennialGardener What's your thoughts on preconditioning the planting hole? I just ordered 4 bare root trees and they wont ship for a month or so. Being in Nevada and not having the best soil, dig a hole now and condition the dirt and start start watering now???
Probably a stupid question. I recently moved and pruned off a low growing branch of a young conference pear tree. As a bit of a joke and i didn't know what to do with the pruned branch, i stuck it in the ground next to the pear tree. It now has buds on it. Is it just getting moisture to keep it alive or can it root to form another tree?
The branch likely has a lot of stored water and carbohydrates within its tissues, so it is probably able to sustain itself for awhile. However, what *probably* will happen is the branch will run out of stored water and nutrients and begin withering. It is possible the branch could root itself, and if it does root itself before it runs out of stored nutrition, it will continue to grow. I don't know how likely that is, though. I am not sure how easily European pears root. Things like that are done with figs all the time, but figs root much more easily than most trees.
I live in Europe zone 8b. Crazy to imagine that a week ago it was 65 degrees, absolutely beautiful, whilst today it was barely 30 degrees. Luckily all of my Cherry trees are just fine, however I did put some of the mulberry and figs inside.
That’s the story of my life here. We went from 81 to 31 in 2 days. My potatoes got burnt, but they’ll live. I hope the freezes and frosts are done for the year.
@@TheMillennialGardener I reckon the taters will do just fine. Mine always did well, no matter what weather. Here the coming week or so we get barely 50 degrees during the day and 40s at night with 1000% chance of rain. Wish me luck...
THANK YOU for showing that a "mulch volcano" is a bad idea. I worked for a county parks department one year, and they really abused the trees they planted with WAY too much mulch built up around the trunks at the base. And they couldn't seem to figure out why so many of the trees they planted did poorly... it was very frustrating.
If you bury the rootstock, the scion can root. You do not want that. That would then place the scion on its own roots, which defeats the purpose of having a rootstock.
I'm okay with that. I like shallower, generally. If this tree had a solid rootball, I would have planted it even shallower, but since it's bare root and the roots were pretty aggressively pruned, I couldn't plant it quite as high as I plant my soil-balled trees.
@@TheMillennialGardener I’m a recent subscriber can you plant a bare root in a container like your 15 gallon aka 12.4 pots lol and grow it for a few seasons?your info would be much appreciated ty sir
@@TheMillennialGardener I’m in zone 7 in Delaware close to the river so it can get really cold here and I have a sun room so we winter plants in it for our escape room outdoors indoors lol thanks again I really appreciate your response it helps so much in the last few years I learned I had a green thumb per say
Can you put native soil in the potted ones? Or just in ground? I am getting 2 paw paws sent this month and a Hackberry but I need to place them innpots until we move but we plan onnplanting them all in ground later on. Should we get them acclimated to outdoor soil in the pot also? Or just stick with the top soil and a bit of the slow release fertilizer and root fertilizer?
Timely video. Given your rationale for backfilling in-ground trees with native soil, why dust the roots with slow-release fertilizer? Aren't you encouraging the roots to stay there?
No. Organic fertilizers take months to break down, so they are going to very slowly trickle feed over a long period of time. It is going to take 1-2 years for the roots to truly establish. It is a slow process, and I want the phosphorous and calcium amendments in the hole for that reason.
If they’re still dormant, you can plant them before the last frost as long as your ground is not frozen and the stressful hard freezes are behind you. If your ground is still hard, or if the trees have woken from dormancy, don’t rush them.
Are these bare root plants safe from frost ( since they have not leafed out yet)? Or should I pot them inside and keep them there until no danger of frost? Thank you
As long as they are still dormant, they are generally safe from frost. I wouldn't plant them if you're still getting hard freezes, but a brief, light frost shouldn't be a problem as long as they're dormant. If they've budded out and have leaves on them, it's probably best to wait until the frosts are over.
@@TheMillennialGardener that makes sense. I will pot them and keep them in my basement for a month and then slowly introduce them to full sun. In one of your videos you recommended bringing plants out when it overcast with clouds at first. I may get some grow lights. ( first go at this !) thanks again
Nice guide. Do you give any stock to the direction the graft should face? I try not to overthink it and just plant the tree in the direction that looks best for the growing site.
It would depend on the space you're growing in. For example, I grow along my fence, so I don't want the graft growing toward the fence or outward into the yard. I always face the graft to the side. That way, I can better center the trunk of the tree, if that makes sense. From there, you'd want to stake and support the scion wood to ensure the tree grows straight and not on an angle.
I have not rooted those. I would look into a procedure online. Generally, it is cut, expose cambium, apply rooting hormone powder, place in moist soil and wait. However, some cuttings are harder to root, some need humidity, some need temp control, etc.
Not necessarily pertaining to this video but do you have issues when up potting fig cuttings with the stems and leaves drooping over ? Most of the cuttings I have up potted had this issue most of them sprung back but lost all there leaves . Do you have issues with this?
I can't tell you how many bare root fruit tree I received that has NO, NONE, ZERO NADA feeder roots. They come with 1 or 2 'main' roots that are chopped off after 4 inches or so. I don't think a single one that arrive that way take. I naturally NEVER use the nursery again. They ones that come with larger root masses usually do better. I don't understand why don't nurseries take better care. Sorry for the rant this well done video triggered me.
That depends completely on your climate. When the tree blooms depends on the soil temperature, ambient temperature, UV intensity, duration of sunlight, etc. All of those things play a role. Trees in sunnier, southern zones are going to bloom faster than in cooler, cloudier northern zones. Each tree species is unique, as well. Trees like figs and peaches tend to bud early and are very prone to late frost damage, while trees like pawpaw's take their time to wake up.
The trunks need to be staked first. This will require perpendicular staking. Other branches can be tended to later, because it will be awhile before they bud out and become long enough to require guidance.
I update them frequently throughout my channel. They're featured all the time and in garden tours. They have not been in ground for a full year yet, and the first 2 seasons are generally spent growing roots, so you're not going to see major vertical growth until Year 3.
If you found this video helpful, please LIKE and SHARE to help extend its reach! Thanks for watching! 😀
Your way to get trees started is great QUESTION FOR YOU
CAN I PUT SOME GRAFT ON AN OLD APPLE TREE ?
A note about keeping bare-root trees in good condition until you're ready to plant them properly - I've seen a few videos from nurseries where instead of keeping them in water, they place them nearly horizontal on a pile of good soil or compost, then cover the roots with a couple inches the same soil or compost, and mulch very well to prevent them from drying out.
This has worked nicely for us this year, because we bought perhaps a few too many bare-root trees (it happens lol) and due to work and other hassles we haven't gotten them all planted as soon as we'd like. If we had left them just in water they might have simply rotted by now.
Great video! I’ve done both exactly what you demonstrated (in ground and potted) and have had 100% success. I’ve learned to water halfway through the process as well to ensure no air pockets. Then continue with topsoil and then compost. Great video!
Glad to hear you’re having success! The quince is already leafing out! Thanks for watching!
I feel like your videos always come out with perfect timing. Haha. We’ve been doing a massive amount of planting lately, and this had some great information. I also never really thought about ordering stuff from further away. Which is good that it may be an option, because so many places are sold out of so many things. Happily, it’s because of a huge boost in gardening because folks are interested in food security. Another great video.
I love Burnt Ridge!
The trees were great quality. I'd happily do business with them again.
Just wanted u to know...those pruners that u recommended r the BEST!!! cuts like butter...no effort needed. 🤗🤗🤗
That's great to hear! I love mine, so far.
Never knew butter cuts!
Showing my age…when baking u cut in butter. 😂
Not exactly related to bareroot trees but I was just watching your most recent video on your owari satsuma tree. Im going to email McKenzie farms about ordering an owari and brown select, I was wondering if you had to specifically request a triploid root stock or do they graph all their citrus trees onto triploid root stock? Love your videos thanks for all the great info youre always sharing!
Thank you! 👍This is another timely tutorial for me. This evening I plan to plant my bare root pomegranate bush and now I better know how!🙂
Awwwww! Sweet Dale. I'm sure he got lots of cuddling and maybe a treat after his bath.
I love how your food forest is growing!👍
Now is generally the ideal time to plant bare root trees, unless you live very far north. Dale hates getting a bath, but he loves how he feels after. He does so many air-dry zoomies after his baths!
@@TheMillennialGardener 😄
I love the videos that you make
Thank you!
thank you so much for sharing your knowledge , extremely useful, helpful and detailed information, planning to buy a bare root trees in the future 🙏🌿🍃🌱 (sorry for my English!)
I've heard (but don't know for sure) that it also helps to dig square holes instead of circular holes. The reasoning is that even when you backfill with native soil, the soil in the hole will be looser than the compacted soil around the hole, and in a circular hole, the roots will become bound around the inside of the hole. Naturally, a square hole will encourage the roots to dig into the compacted soil once they hit the sharp corners.
I have also heard, though I don't think there is any peer-reviewed studies on it. If the plant is coming from a container, no hole shape is going to change the fact that the roots are already imprinted from that container if they aren't properly teased - more than anything, I think that is where trees fail long-term.
I've read it too but if corners are helpful, why not like a 6 or 8 pointed star for double the corners? Unless the ground is super compacted, like to the point you need a mattock to dig thru it, i don't think the hole will make much difference, after a few weeks and some rain the ground will be about the same compaction as the surrounding ground again.
I think the more common issue is spade shovels are angled, if you look at tree planting shovels, the blade is straight. The spade will promote more of a bowl shape, i would just try to make sure the hole walls are more vertical. I would try to dig further down near the walls of cylinder so the plant is sorta on the top of a volcano, this is to promote deeper anchor roots. Heavy rains can loosen the surface roots by making the ground too soft allowing the tree to tip over
He talks about that (making corners) in another video or 2 of his for that and reason
Thank you. Did you soak the roots first I didnt see or notice if you said you did?
Great video; do you grow any carnivorous plants like sarrencia in the ground.
Really informative video as usual.
I’ve been trying rooting 4 apple trees from the cutting. It’s been 4 months since the cuttings are put into small individual pots. They all have little buds and look alive but no growth spotted. Is it normal? Thanks.
Thanks! I don't have much experience rooting apple trees - well, none, really, so I cannot tell you how easily they will root. Did you score them and add rooting hormone? I don't know how well they'll root without it. What may be happening is the cuttings just have enough stored nutrition within them to begin budding on schedule, or they could have rooted. The thing is, do you want an apple tree growing on its own roots, though? They're quite susceptible to a lot of problems, so they're typically grafted onto disease resistant rootstock for this reason (and dwarfing rootstock, because full-size apple trees grow 30+ feet).
Thank you for your video! I'm about to receive an order of bare root trees from the Arbor Day Foundation just for joining, so I am scrambling to make sure that I can pot them properly!
Awesome! Fall is a very good time to plant bare root trees directly in ground as long as they're hardy to your zone. For example, apples, peaches and pears tend to be really cold hardy, so as long as your zone can accommodate them, you can plant them now and they'll slowly establish over the winter for the spring.
Oh by the way, thank u for the pruners.....🤗
You're welcome!
Never heard of Burnt Tree, but we buy our trees from Rain Tree Nursery, everything they sell is edible, you should check them out!
@TheMillennialGardener What's your thoughts on preconditioning the planting hole? I just ordered 4 bare root trees and they wont ship for a month or so. Being in Nevada and not having the best soil, dig a hole now and condition the dirt and start start watering now???
Thanks
You're welcome!
Probably a stupid question. I recently moved and pruned off a low growing branch of a young conference pear tree. As a bit of a joke and i didn't know what to do with the pruned branch, i stuck it in the ground next to the pear tree. It now has buds on it. Is it just getting moisture to keep it alive or can it root to form another tree?
The branch likely has a lot of stored water and carbohydrates within its tissues, so it is probably able to sustain itself for awhile. However, what *probably* will happen is the branch will run out of stored water and nutrients and begin withering. It is possible the branch could root itself, and if it does root itself before it runs out of stored nutrition, it will continue to grow. I don't know how likely that is, though. I am not sure how easily European pears root. Things like that are done with figs all the time, but figs root much more easily than most trees.
Because I saw this video. I know why my pistachio trees never produced nuts. I had planted them too deep. Hard lesson learned!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! 😊👍 Very helpful !
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching!
What a coincidence. My bare root figs just arrived few mins ago haha
Outstanding! Glad to be timely!
I live in Europe zone 8b. Crazy to imagine that a week ago it was 65 degrees, absolutely beautiful, whilst today it was barely 30 degrees. Luckily all of my Cherry trees are just fine, however I did put some of the mulberry and figs inside.
That’s the story of my life here. We went from 81 to 31 in 2 days. My potatoes got burnt, but they’ll live. I hope the freezes and frosts are done for the year.
@@TheMillennialGardener I reckon the taters will do just fine. Mine always did well, no matter what weather. Here the coming week or so we get barely 50 degrees during the day and 40s at night with 1000% chance of rain. Wish me luck...
THANK YOU for showing that a "mulch volcano" is a bad idea. I worked for a county parks department one year, and they really abused the trees they planted with WAY too much mulch built up around the trunks at the base. And they couldn't seem to figure out why so many of the trees they planted did poorly...
it was very frustrating.
Great video, as always. I'm sure you've mentioned this before, but why don't you want to bury the rootstock. What's the danger?
If you bury the rootstock, the scion can root. You do not want that. That would then place the scion on its own roots, which defeats the purpose of having a rootstock.
I plant my trees even shallower to account for wood chips/mulch
I'm okay with that. I like shallower, generally. If this tree had a solid rootball, I would have planted it even shallower, but since it's bare root and the roots were pretty aggressively pruned, I couldn't plant it quite as high as I plant my soil-balled trees.
Omg are you a mind reader I was just looking bare root apple trees today lol
It’s that time of year! I try to make the videos about what’s happening at the moment 😊
@@TheMillennialGardener I’m a recent subscriber can you plant a bare root in a container like your 15 gallon aka 12.4 pots lol and grow it for a few seasons?your info would be much appreciated ty sir
@@billdelaney4222 yes, you can. I will say if you do that, it’ll be hard to eventually transplant it since it’ll be huge, but you can do that, sure.
@@TheMillennialGardener I’m in zone 7 in Delaware close to the river so it can get really cold here and I have a sun room so we winter plants in it for our escape room outdoors indoors lol thanks again I really appreciate your response it helps so much in the last few years I learned I had a green thumb per say
best part is the dog bath
Can you put native soil in the potted ones? Or just in ground? I am getting 2 paw paws sent this month and a Hackberry but I need to place them innpots until we move but we plan onnplanting them all in ground later on. Should we get them acclimated to outdoor soil in the pot also? Or just stick with the top soil and a bit of the slow release fertilizer and root fertilizer?
Hi Can a 3 yr old Persimmon relocate in winter by dig up in bare root form ??? ???
Can you plant bear root peach trees in July?
Is it too late in the season to plant bare root fruit trees? I'm in between 7b-8a, near Ft Bragg.
What lav mic do you use?
Can you link where you purchased them from? Thanks for the great videos!
This Asian pear tree is from Burnt Ridge Nursery. My apples and peaches are from Cummins Nursery.
Timely video. Given your rationale for backfilling in-ground trees with native soil, why dust the roots with slow-release fertilizer? Aren't you encouraging the roots to stay there?
No. Organic fertilizers take months to break down, so they are going to very slowly trickle feed over a long period of time. It is going to take 1-2 years for the roots to truly establish. It is a slow process, and I want the phosphorous and calcium amendments in the hole for that reason.
@@TheMillennialGardener Understood. Well reasoned. Thanks!
How often are you watering the pear tree? Every day, every other day, twice per week or ???
Can I plant a dormant bare rooted cherry tree in a container (Houston Texas late June)?
Please make the grafting video as well.
Do you plant bare root fruit trees after the last frost or before? I'm wondering because the tree is dormant and I live up in Canada! Thank you
If they’re still dormant, you can plant them before the last frost as long as your ground is not frozen and the stressful hard freezes are behind you. If your ground is still hard, or if the trees have woken from dormancy, don’t rush them.
Where do you order your BareRoot trees from
will this work for bare root trees sent by arbor day foundation?
This will work for any dormant bare root tree.
the perfect time is after the leaves fall in fall :)
Do you sell any grafted giombo persimmon
No. I don’t sell trees.
@@TheMillennialGardener ok thank you. And do you ever sell any scion
Are these bare root plants safe from frost ( since they have not leafed out yet)? Or should I pot them inside and keep them there until no danger of frost? Thank you
As long as they are still dormant, they are generally safe from frost. I wouldn't plant them if you're still getting hard freezes, but a brief, light frost shouldn't be a problem as long as they're dormant. If they've budded out and have leaves on them, it's probably best to wait until the frosts are over.
@@TheMillennialGardener that makes sense. I will pot them and keep them in my basement for a month and then slowly introduce them to full sun. In one of your videos you recommended bringing plants out when it overcast with clouds at first. I may get some grow lights. ( first go at this !) thanks again
👍🏾
Thanks for watching!
Nice guide. Do you give any stock to the direction the graft should face? I try not to overthink it and just plant the tree in the direction that looks best for the growing site.
It would depend on the space you're growing in. For example, I grow along my fence, so I don't want the graft growing toward the fence or outward into the yard. I always face the graft to the side. That way, I can better center the trunk of the tree, if that makes sense. From there, you'd want to stake and support the scion wood to ensure the tree grows straight and not on an angle.
I have a question.. I have some elderberries I'd like to cut some limbs and root it.. have you ever rooted limbs and how??
I have not rooted those. I would look into a procedure online. Generally, it is cut, expose cambium, apply rooting hormone powder, place in moist soil and wait. However, some cuttings are harder to root, some need humidity, some need temp control, etc.
You can just stick elderberry in the ground and they root like figs or willows.
Not necessarily pertaining to this video but do you have issues when up potting fig cuttings with the stems and leaves drooping over ? Most of the cuttings I have up potted had this issue most of them sprung back but lost all there leaves . Do you have issues with this?
Also they have all been acclimated to the outdoors they were all started under lights inside but I do not think acclamation is the issue
How long do you let them soak in the bucket of water?
Just while I’m digging the hole and prepping. Maybe 30-60 mins?
@@TheMillennialGardener oh some nurseries suggest 6-8 hours to prevent shock when the soil dries out near the roots.
I can't tell you how many bare root fruit tree I received that has NO, NONE, ZERO NADA feeder roots. They come with 1 or 2 'main' roots that are chopped off after 4 inches or so. I don't think a single one that arrive that way take. I naturally NEVER use the nursery again. They ones that come with larger root masses usually do better. I don't understand why don't nurseries take better care. Sorry for the rant this well done video triggered me.
When will tht tree bloom and leafs
That depends completely on your climate. When the tree blooms depends on the soil temperature, ambient temperature, UV intensity, duration of sunlight, etc. All of those things play a role. Trees in sunnier, southern zones are going to bloom faster than in cooler, cloudier northern zones. Each tree species is unique, as well. Trees like figs and peaches tend to bud early and are very prone to late frost damage, while trees like pawpaw's take their time to wake up.
your soil looks dark and healthy
When do a peach tree comes out of dormant? Mine is still there..
It depends on the climate and location. My peach arrived today.
@@TheMillennialGardener I live zone 10b.
@@deborhasmith6285 mine is still dormant also and I am in zone 7b. I hope it is not dead Lol.
@@preachergirl611 haha... no it's not dead.. you got jokes!!!
@@deborhasmith6285 No this is my first time trying to grow a fruit tree so i really am wondering if mine is alive. I planted it in December. Lol
dig a whole place tree root side down into hole fill hole with dirt and water for several day. never fails.
💗
Thanks for watching!
Dale😄😄 he was upset about his dad , look at his face 😇because he isn’t a stinky boy😁
He isn't stinky, because he gets a bath every 2 weeks! He looks like he belongs on a milk carton when he's in the bath. The look in his eyes...
Parallel staking would be neater than perpendicular
The trunks need to be staked first. This will require perpendicular staking. Other branches can be tended to later, because it will be awhile before they bud out and become long enough to require guidance.
Where’s the update on these plants
I update them frequently throughout my channel. They're featured all the time and in garden tours. They have not been in ground for a full year yet, and the first 2 seasons are generally spent growing roots, so you're not going to see major vertical growth until Year 3.
Why do you buy semi dwarf and prune them to dwarf size rather than just buy a dwarf root stock
theres something about clipping roots that hurts me
But it doesn't hurt the tree. As long as they're dormant, deciduous trees, they will recover.