John, nicely done on the boxcar. This will be another fun piece to see roll down the layout. As for the value of the car, I'd say you really increased the value of it by putting on decals of a car that no manufacturer has made to my knowledge; adding KD couplers, metal wheels, and proper weight; and giving it a nice weathering job. I know for my railroad, I'll eventually have to do the same thing and this is a very good video to reference. Thanks for sharing how you customized it and enjoy the cars! - Jason
Smart - smarter still would be to cut the molded on details off and replace it with better details - ladders etc. same with the roofwalk, which is my mind jumped to that.
Thanks for this video, John. It's timely for me as I'm just about to start experimenting with using oil paints for weathering. I've recently discovered using Tamiya panel liner enamels as overall washes for grime (and Ilke the results) but have been using acrylic washings for fading. So a practical example of the use of oils for a fading wash was good to see. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Glad it was helpful, Andrew. I have not worked with the tamiya panel liner products - I tried using a Vallejo enamel wash but I did not like the effect I was getting. I suppose I could have thinned it more, but it just seemed to have more pigment than I wanted. I’ll keep an eye out for the tamiya one and try that some time - thanks!
Nice timing for me. Last weekend I picked up two Athearn Blue Box box cars for weathering practice at a local train show. I give your weathering techniques a try.
Just proofed your upcoming NMRA article which is very well done. And teased me to check out this video. Neat to see the dot fade method in use and think I’ll give it a try on an N&W RS11 I’m finishing up. Very timely. Hope to see you soon somewhere. 👍👍
@@johnarthur6302 Plan on going at the moment. Odd meet in that the meeting proper begins at 12:30. Crossties should be out soon with the updated info. I chickened out on my RS11 dot fade wash. But I plan to give it a try on something. Hope to see you soon.
What a timely video! I have to strip a locomotive tender. Now I know how. Question: I don't understand the bit about the tide wash on the rivet lines after applying the thin black paint. Are you cleaning up along the rivets with mineral spirits or...?
Thanks for watching! Yes so the wash doesn’t stay perfectly along the rivets. There are places where a little pigment got placed spreading away from the rivets. So that feathering step is using a wide flat brush, wet with thinner, to clean it off just up to the rivets. I tried not to remove anything between the rivets themselves. Hope that helps?
Thanks Paul. I am sure you could make it work with acrylics but the oils give a few benefits that make the work easier. They don’t dry as fast, they blend better, and they flow better, especially over a gloss coat. Some of it would be considerably more difficult with acrylics, but probably workable. Why not give oils a try?
I came upon that solution too, but had a lot of IPA laying around. I use it as airbrush thinner, It’s dirt cheap, and I’ll even re-use it on other projects.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPER DETRAILED VIDEO
You are welcome!
Great video, thanks for sharing...
Thanks for watching!
Interesting. Will have to give this a try.
Thank you- and good luck!
Nice straight forward how-to video. Videography and sound were excellent.
Thanks Bill!
Well done. Very suttel effect
Thanks Joe!
Another excellent tutorial!👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the video John. I will have to give that trick a try .
Thanks Jim. Good luck!
Thank you for sharing. Very nice👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice job John, the boxcar came out looking great.
Thanks John!👍 Cheers
John, nicely done on the boxcar. This will be another fun piece to see roll down the layout. As for the value of the car, I'd say you really increased the value of it by putting on decals of a car that no manufacturer has made to my knowledge; adding KD couplers, metal wheels, and proper weight; and giving it a nice weathering job. I know for my railroad, I'll eventually have to do the same thing and this is a very good video to reference. Thanks for sharing how you customized it and enjoy the cars! - Jason
Thanks Jason. Certainly made it more valuable to me!!
Looks really nice John. For next time, to make the stripping easier, you might want to remove the door as well as the roofwalk.
Smart - smarter still would be to cut the molded on details off and replace it with better details - ladders etc. same with the roofwalk, which is my mind jumped to that.
Looks great! Thanks for showing us your process for weathering. Hoping to start doing some weathering this winter. Thanks for sharing!
Glad to hear that- start with something inexpensive, and you’ll feel much more free to experiment!
good vid on channel thanks lee
Thanks Lee!
Nice! It turned out great John, makes me want to work on rolling stock!! eventually... too many buildings to build!
Thanks Dennis! There’s nothing wrong with taking a detour and switching project types. Keeps things interesting and avoids burnout!
Thanks for this video, John. It's timely for me as I'm just about to start experimenting with using oil paints for weathering. I've recently discovered using Tamiya panel liner enamels as overall washes for grime (and Ilke the results) but have been using acrylic washings for fading. So a practical example of the use of oils for a fading wash was good to see. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Glad it was helpful, Andrew. I have not worked with the tamiya panel liner products - I tried using a Vallejo enamel wash but I did not like the effect I was getting. I suppose I could have thinned it more, but it just seemed to have more pigment than I wanted. I’ll keep an eye out for the tamiya one and try that some time - thanks!
Nice timing for me. Last weekend I picked up two Athearn Blue Box box cars for weathering practice at a local train show. I give your weathering techniques a try.
Perfect! I recommend the weathering tutorials on JCs RIPtrack, another channel. I learned a lot watching his stuff!
@@johnarthur6302 His channel is one of my bookmarks.
Just proofed your upcoming NMRA article which is very well done. And teased me to check out this video. Neat to see the dot fade method in use and think I’ll give it a try on an N&W RS11 I’m finishing up. Very timely. Hope to see you soon somewhere. 👍👍
Thanks Mike! I’m hoping to make it up to Ashland for the divisional meet, maybe see you there?
@@johnarthur6302 Plan on going at the moment. Odd meet in that the meeting proper begins at 12:30. Crossties should be out soon with the updated info. I chickened out on my RS11 dot fade wash. But I plan to give it a try on something. Hope to see you soon.
Try it on a cheap boxcar or something similar. That’s what I’ve been doing.
@@johnarthur6302 That’s good advice for sure….but I’ve rarely taken it, ha. Have some gons in the pipeline which might be great candidates.
C’mon John…your an expert at this stuff 😊…try an inexpensive car first 😂😂…that was an awesome demo
At some point i will. Still honing my skills on the cheap stuff!
What a timely video! I have to strip a locomotive tender. Now I know how.
Question: I don't understand the bit about the tide wash on the rivet lines after applying the thin black paint. Are you cleaning up along the rivets with mineral spirits or...?
Thanks for watching! Yes so the wash doesn’t stay perfectly along the rivets. There are places where a little pigment got placed spreading away from the rivets. So that feathering step is using a wide flat brush, wet with thinner, to clean it off just up to the rivets. I tried not to remove anything between the rivets themselves. Hope that helps?
It did. Thanks!
I like the subtle weathering of the pin wash. Does that have to be oil, or can you do pin wash with acrylics?
Thanks Paul. I am sure you could make it work with acrylics but the oils give a few benefits that make the work easier. They don’t dry as fast, they blend better, and they flow better, especially over a gloss coat. Some of it would be considerably more difficult with acrylics, but probably workable. Why not give oils a try?
Brake fluid does the same job with less liquid
I came upon that solution too, but had a lot of IPA laying around. I use it as airbrush thinner, It’s dirt cheap, and I’ll even re-use it on other projects.
Hi
Hello!